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Okay, all it needed was a longer magnet with a DIY self-straightening WD-40 spray can rod. It was at the very far end of the cylinder 😱😅

Just installed a Red Crown Gasoline light in our carport to go with the truck. I am pretty happy with the results.

Got the wagon done and have been putting some miles on it. The wagon is a fun old ride and gets more attention than my 50.

My Great Grandfather, and guessing my Great Grandmother with the '55 Dodge (I'll be inheriting this summer) and what I believe is a '55 DeSoto. The truck was my Great Grandfather's then my Uncle's, and then my Parent's, and soon to be mine. My Dad just told me that he is getting too old to work on too many toys, and he is giving it to me. It is in a little worse shape than here, but pretty much original. I'll post pictures of it's current state, in the correct area, when I get it out of the barn, but from what I recall it definitely will need a gas tank and fuel pump, amongst other things.

Forum started in 1998 on some open source forum software. Was pretty buggy and required a lot of time to keep it working. Basically as the number of posts grew the index would get corrupted and have to start over. Remember the forum updates when we started anew?? Then went to a commercial product, I think it was vbulletin. I think they got bought and then support got pricey. Started looking for another solution and ended up going with Invision, partially because they had tools to migrate from the previous vendor. Migration was a pain, but got it done. Invision has maintained a fair price structure and is good about bug fixes and security updates. Support has also been good. They are reducing some of their features like the store for physical item sales, which is going away very soon. They don't think they can compete in that market with all the other marketplace solutions available. Same was true of the chat function. FYI additional security with the ISP has been implemented and guest access is again available.

Couple shots from the day

Pre BBQ and Merle has already been seen working on someone else’s truck Lol, and we have collectively solved the “ b-series” horn button removal scenario Ggdad1951 (with beer) John T53 (flannel left hand try) Merle (left of 48 dodger holding down the steering wheel)

Also had them flip the flywheel starter ring.

Been awhile since I've been in an engine but I would recommend that once you remove the lower cap place some kind of sleeve over the threads of the cap bolts , rubber/vinyl hose, masking tape, etc. this will avoid worries of bolt threads scraping the crank shaft as you push the piston up per Sniper's recommendation. Just a thought.

A legendary attribute of early Rolls-Royce Motorcars was the ability to balance a coin on the radiator whilst the engine was purring quietly. While there is neither a R-R or 5-shilling coin in this video, here is friend Jerry's 1950 Plymouth with a Canadian Loonie riding the fresh air vent, radiator and cylinder head!

It's amazing what Rustoleum paint can look like when sprayed with hardener and urethane clear to give the UV protection

I've used Rustoleum and Tractor Supply's implement paint for rust "proofing" on many projects over the years. No paint will kill rust that isn't addressed but it can inhibit surface corrosion on clean surfaces. Two VW Beetle floor pans (inside and out) and running gear received the Rustoleum satin and gloss finishes and both have held up well for over twenty years. I usually use a brush because the paint can be applied thicker and the cost and mess is much less than spray cans. I've also bought quarts, thinned with mineral spirits and shot it with a spray gun when that was the best option.

I have an admittedly tight focus on the KT Keller cars, so that's what I research and play with. It's all about having fun after all and those are the ones I like. I am a huge fan of Overdrive transmissions because they don't really change the charm of the cars and actually add to it. When you put one in your car your speedo will be off at all speeds because the speedometer pinion gear was selected for a 4.1 ring and pinion. The good news is you can swap out the pinion from your old three speed to the O.D. and all will be back to normal ( assuming your speedometer doesn't need service ). But what if you changed the rear end ratio or the tire size? I don't advocate changing rear axles because I don't see much to be gained there. You can easily change the differential carrier ( aka 3rd member ) in a Plymouth if you want another ratio. Where I live there's lots of open road with highway speeds of 55 to 70 so optional ratios, tires and O.D. go well with my Plymouth. My P17 Coupe came with 6.40-15 tires ( modern equivalent 195/75/15 ) and a 3.73 final drive ratio so the speedometer pinion would be a 17 tooth gear ( p/n 652-848 ) for an example. Chrysler designed the pinions to use the same 6 tooth gear on the output shaft so you only need to change one gear to correct the speedometer. One thing you find out right away is selecting speedo gears is not an exact science. You can get close and you might hit it right on the button but you more likely will be over or under by 2 or 3 mph. That's why the Highway Patrol has an enforcement tolerance. So let's look at tires first 6.40 15 = 195/75/15 standard tire for a P17 6.70 15 = 205/75/15 standard tire for a P18 7.60 15 = 225/75/15 an optional size tire Final drive ratios 3.90 very common on long wheelbase cars 3.73 standard ratio on many optional on all 3.54 optional Chart of ratios & tires vs speedometer pinions 3.90 6.70 15 17 tooth pinion 3.73 6.40 15 17 tooth pinion 3.73 6.70 15 16 tooth pinion 3.54 6.70 15 16 tooth pinion All 7.60 15 16 tooth pinion So you can see you're not going to get an exact reading but you can get close enough to avoid a ticket. The part number for the 16 tooth pinion is 652-846. I have found that if you have the number for an obscure part the parts house will look to find it in their inventory but they are likely to blow you off if you just say "I need a 16 tooth speedometer gear." Happy hunting!

Yup, between 65 and 70. When I had earplugs in, I tended to go faster, haha....

Thanks sniper and DJK for digging up info. And here's my two cents about electric pumps. First off, I love 'em! And here's why: When one of my vehicles has been sitting for a long time, I don't have to waste precious battery capacity cranking the motor to get fuel up to and in the carb. I also put a electric switch in the supply line to the pump so that, in Autumn when I'm putting cars to sleep, I can turn off the switch and keep running the motor until it dies. This does a good job of draining the carb, reducing varnish build-up. Yes, I could use a gas additive (and I often do), but with lots of cars and equipment, and full gas tanks in each, that's lots of Stabil! And, in regards to leaving the mechanical pump in the line, I've done that numerous times, but one thing to consider is this: if you do that and the rubber diaphram of the mechanical pump fails, you'll get raw gas going into your crankcase and diluting your oil... and not know it!

Public Service Announcement.Time to spring into warm weather driving mode. Remember to reverse your car's battery cables to change heater to cooler function. Happy Motoring to all.

Ok. So. That was probably the most spectacular celestial thing I've ever seen. I still wouldn't go out of my way to see another total eclipse, but I am definitely glad I got to see this one. We were in the 100% zone, the skies were crystal clear, and we had an unobstructed view, so for three minutes and some seconds, all you could see was the sun's corona, and three stars/planets that popped up, seemingly out of nowhere. Like turning on a light switch. Funny light effects for an hour leading up to it during the partial eclipse, then BAM, it's dark, the temp dropped a good ten degrees, the wind stopped, everything got quiet, and you could look at the moon/sun with the naked eye, surrounded by the awesome display of the sun's corona. I guess I was expecting groups of white-robed Druids to pop up chanting pagan rituals, not that that didn't happen, but I didn't see any. I had to go through town earlier in the morning and it was already crowded at 0800, but then we stayed home. Had some friends over later to watch the event, who said it was packed downtown when they went through at about 12. Doesn't look like we got the full quota of madness that was predicted, but still got enough people to challenge our planning and preparations. Traffic on I-95 northbound was not quite bumper to bumper, but it stopped to watch the event for a good 45 minutes. The day isn't over yet, though, and tomorrow is worthy of staying home, too, everyone who trickled in over the past three days will be leaving at once. I got a kick out of this - there was a rumor going around that Taylor Swift flew into the Houlton International Airport on her private jet to witness the total eclipse. A friend was assigned to monitoring inbound air traffic, (his wife and kids were who came to our house to witness the event), all he would say was that a fancy private jet flew in, but he wouldn't confirm/deny her presence, despite our encouragement to propagate that rumor whether true or not. So, if you've never been outside, standing on the ground, to actually see a total eclipse in person, I think you've missed something worth seeing. Won't be another one in North America for something like 20 years.

My photo dump. Sadly we missed "Friend of the Show" pic. I'll update pics with the awards tomorrow. Twinsies the grand master Tim! Best Non Mopar: Katy 71 Range Rover Best Hard Working Truck: Joe Light Blue B1/B2 Best Built Truck: Dan Red C series Best Fastest Looking Truck: Brett R/T Challenger (it identifies as a truck) Best of Show: Bud Red modified B3/B4 Not shown: Friend of the Show: Nick 4x4 B1/B2 Wish you were Here: Keven B1B (sorry have the year wrong in the note, I was looking at Brent)

In my mad mind there is only one way to operate an Overdrive, that is as the factory intended. The thing is called Automatic Overdrive for a reason. It works so well without drama when installed properly I just don't understand why anyone would jury rig one, except ignorance of how to wire one properly. I've never stopped looking for easier cheaper cleaner ways to do it right. Throttle switches are way over priced from suppliers who think they have you over a barrel. At $125 I think that is obscene. I found a seller on eBay who had hundreds of military surplus bus door switches that do exactly the same thing as the reproductions and even looks the same for $6.50 ( I bought 10 for gifts to friends ) The reproductions are really floor switches for Ford products anyway. The MoPar switch is smaller and fits on the carburetor. Those can be had from the Studebaker guys for around $35 but you need to make a simple bracket and rig a lever on the carburetor throttle ( or find an Overdrive ready carburetor ). My latest and greatest find is a small switch with a pull cable from a Nash/AMC for $21. I really like this one as it is so clean and simple. Since you connect it to the lever that comes from the foot pedal its action is really smooth and effortless. You can change carburetors and manifolds without re-engineering how you trigger the switch. Then there's the relay, another obscenely priced item at $125. If you have changed to 12 volts one of the little Bosch style cube relays will work nicely for about $2.50. I like my 6 volt cars and found the same thing made in Germany for 6 volt for $18, but I am told the 12 volt version will work with 6 volts if you get the high amp version. The last thing is how to wire it. If you have a shop manual there's a description which also has the color the wires should be in there. Seems to me the only valid reason for not having a shop manual is illiteracy ( trust me I am not joking on this. Literacy is still a major problem especially in auto repair ) I have found that sometimes the Plymouth manual is short on an explanation and photos so I have all the MoPar manuals for the era of my Plymouth. But then I love shop manuals. I am the person your Mom told you about who reads technical manuals for entertainment. lol Anyway that's my two cents. If it works as intended you are not dependent on "Driver technique" and you can let anyone drive your car ( but why would you let anyone drive your car? )

Some history on the oilite bearing developed by Chrysler and Carl Breer the designer of the airflow: Below id the correct way to install a pilot bushing in our old MoPar's. There isa a special tool used to install and to burnish the bearing. Note that it aso states not to ream the bearing. I have this tool and several of my Mopar friends have use the tool. You can sometimes fined this tool on Ebay. Another great engineering product from the Chrylser Motor Division and everyone thinks GM/FORD are the best, Think again you FURD and Chebby owners. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Really nice truck! I dunno, I think a good soaking with PB Blaster will free her up!

I've been round and round on this topic, not that I think Plymouth brakes are bad or inadequate. They work when in good repair. I don't believe in scrapping what the car came with just to be modern. In my years of experience I know that disc brakes CAN be better but seldom are. I have gone to the trouble of swapping the Plymouth 10 inch drum brakes for Chrysler Windsor 12 inch brakes. This is something I've seen several old timers do and I find it appealing as the car is still all MoPar and period correct. The idea being that I want a car that a dealer mechanic of the time would have built for himself using the best of the MoPar parts bins. An article in the Cascade Pacific Plymouth Club April 2024 news letter caught my eye headlined, "Consider brake booster instead of disk conversion?" by Robin Will. "A young man just across the aisle from us at Portland Swap Meet told me something I didn't know and its worth passing on. He was selling add-on brake booster units. He said that drum brakes themselves are not usually problematic in old cars; the problem was more often with the pressure that could be delivered to them with original equipment hydraulics. Getting a booster on the system can bring old brakes up to current standards without the expense of a disc brake conversion for folks who love to drive their cars every day." What was not mentioned in the article that I know from my experience is that bigger brakes do not lower the pedal pressure required to stop a car. In fact disc brakes don't stop any better than drums because to reach their full potential they require a brake booster. I know I'll get some heat on that statement but I have examples of cars that evolved over time and had drum brakes one year, front disc brakes another year and finally disc brakes with a booster later on. The boosted brakes certainly were better, while the front disc only brakes weren't noticeably better. Bigger drum brakes will have better heat rejection capability and thus less fade. Great for mountain driving or towing or racing but not a dramatic improvement every day. To reach their full potential they need to be boosted as well. Back to what would a period dealer mechanic have on his car? Well Chrysler used a "Remote" Brake Booster on some models. The brakes were all the same except they added this remote booster. The first time I saw such a thing was on a 1968 Volvo P1800 which had one for each brake circuit. I can tell you that car had brakes that worked very nicely indeed. Finding a vintage Chrysler remote brake booster might be an expensive challenge ( not saying it would be impossible but... ) However the aftermarket has substitutes remarkably CHEAP. When you google "Remote Brake Booster" they pop up all over the page for as low as $65 from Walmart of all places! They are imported of course for that price ( China perhaps ) Units that swap out the original master cylinder for an integrated booster/master cylinder are like $500 to $1,100 and I can't imagine they provide as much bang for the buck ( Perhaps "Bang" is not the right word to use when talking about brakes. lol ) If you dive deeper into the suggested usage for these devices they seem to work for similar weight cars like a Plymouth. Since they are small they will fit in the same place as the old Chrysler booster on the left frame rail behind the master cylinder. So there's an idea for discussion.

As an added fact, it was a Chrysler engineer that developed the oilite bearing....

Nice! Bought my Plaza for 80$ in 1970. No surf racks requied

Try polerizing the generator first . It is easy and fast and costs nothing .

Might be the voltage regulator. Simple test, start the car and use the hand throrrle to up idle to 800 or so. Use a jumper wire to ground the field terminal. The field terminal is the smaller diameter generator terminals. The ammeter should peg to full charge. If it does the generator is working, and the fault is in the regulator and or it's wiring. If the regulator cover will come off, remove the cover and clean all these points. Retest. If still no charge, check the regulator wires and connections.

If you get an email saying your password is expiring do not click on the link. It is a phishing attack attempting to get your login information. We do not have a password expiration policy at this site so ignore and delete any such emails. I do recommend setting a unique password for this site, and using a unique passwords for other sites you visit. I also recommend using the two factor authorization option on your account for additional security.

Click-bait title, you see 😅 Just in case you did not get it, this is an older Carter ceramic fuel filter, to complement my B&B. Got it a while ago, and finally had a chance to put it in, along with a 1/2 carb spacer. Will see how that works out 😏

Have someone step on the clutch (you need the clutch pedal working) while trying to install. This will release the clutch and allow the disc to move and align to the shaft and should seat the trans.

I have improved my valve set when using the cold method. Yet I prefer the hot method. A gauntlet glove on one hand/forearm is helpful to prevent burns. I shut off the hot engine. Make my adjustments. Then run it and test. I like the positive feedback when a running engine pulls the feeler gauge in, just right. Then I know its right and brings a smile. The wheel and inner fender window removal is great. After a good hot valve set, I come out from the car with a black sheen. Looking like I’ve been in an underground coal mine. Good times. I do enjoy a good hot flathead valve set. It’s rewarding and takes me back to 1950. Romanticizing a valve set…What have I become? Lol.

I had my bumper off completely and cleaned and painted the brackets and I do not recall the well being in the way to the point I could not do the task. The well does not just slip out of the trunk pan. Welded in place....

Two hours after arriving from the shelter.

I speculate that pre ww2 bolts were more likely to be cut but with the advancements in the military equipment, i.e. planes, etc, stronger threaded fasteners were needed. Just a thought. dan...

I like aluminum paint, it dries without any buildup. Check the inside of the tires for any tags, that could eventually rub a pin hole in the tube. I wiped the inside of the tires and the tubes with corn starch with a cloth. It doesn’t need a lot. I paint the bead of tire with rubber lube, so the bead slides easily on the wheel as it sets, you can put the lube on the wheel seat to ensure a soft seating of the bead. The flap doesn’t need any lube. Set the opening of the lock ring opposite the valve stem. I have a special hammer/mallet with a duck bill on the other side. I use the rubber part to tap the lock ring into place as I fill the tire slowly by adjusting the pressure on my regulator. This assumes that your rings are clean and no cracks, they have been painted and the notch in the wheel where they lock is perfectly clean. I’ve trashed wheels and rings that had been beaten with metal hammers. The lock ring ends should be almost touching when done correctly. Any questions, ask, it is a risky job even if you’ve done it before. These are 16” wheels, but the same design as the 20” wheels that I have. Once the bead is set and the lock ring is secured properly, I let the air out and refill with the valve core installed to eliminate any tube wrinkles. After you get it to pressure, you can bend the valve stem for access when the wheels are on the truck. If there is anything you don’t understand, ask. Rick D.

Another vote for making your own. It’s like a puzzle to solve. You screw a few up. You learn. You get better. Building and shaping your first ever 3 ft line across the left rear axle housing? Order two 25 ft rolls of 3/16” brake line tube. 😄

Here's a possibility. I wonder if the Dodge rod bolts have threads that are cut, while the Pontiac rod bolts have rolled threads. Rolled threads are formed by dies that displace (smash) the material into the shape of threads, without removing any material. This results in threads that have larger outside diameter than the adjacent shank section of the bolt. On the other hand, cut threads are just that - they are made by cutting material away to achieve the thread shape, so the threaded section diameter will not be any larger than the diameter of the adjacent shank. It's kind of hard to tell from your photo, but it looks like that might be the situation. If so, then accordingly, the Dodge rod might be made with smaller bolt holes to snugly fit its cut-thread bolts, but the Pontiac bolts, with their rolled threads are too large to fit. I have a couple of Dodge 230 flathead rods at home, along with their bolts, and I can tell you that the threads in those bolts have the appearance of being cut, which surprised me, since I have seen other Dodge flatheads that have the appearance of having rolled threads. I have no reason to think that those are not the original bolts, and perhaps they were early rods that used cut-thread bolts. I could take some measurements and photos of those rods and bolts some time in the next few days and we can see if they match the dimensions of your bolts. We can also see how thin my other rods are (the ones that used rolled-thread bolts) in the wall between the bolt holes and the bearing saddles. I remember them being pretty thin. We might find that you have room to ream out the bolt holes in your rods to accommodate the slightly larger Pontiac bolts, or some aftermarket bolts, such as those from ARP. From the strength and durability (fatigue) standpoint, the bolts containing rolled threads are very much preferred. I believe virtually every manufacturer uses those types of rod bolts nowadays and have for many, many decades. I remember seeing early rod bolts from other engine makes that used cut-thread bolts, but I think most everyone moved away from that type of design long ago.

with all due respect, items needed to exact this repair is common at any hardware store or big box building supply, TSC etc that one can walk in, get the item, pay and immediately got to work repairing. While mail order from many companies and sites are MOST BENEFICAL when you dealing/needing bulk quantity, I have to state IN MY OPINION this is not the best option for this particular thread. Heck if it boils right down to it, one can find where a person may park a chevy/gm product and find where these have fallen off and free for picking up. Ok so the last part is a joke...maybe real at times, but still intended as a jab/joke.

SURVIVOR: saw this Dodge between Lake Graham and Newcastle

Just use a torch to get the plug red hot....that oughta bust the rust loose................. 😲 🤣

John-T-53, thanks for all the pictures. I’m sure a lot of us would like to make the tailgate and BBQ. Just not practical for most. However, your pictures really let those of us who can’t make it live vicariously through your pictures. The most and best of the bunch! I would love to bring this old girl to the BBQ but it involves border crossing (not a problem with a passport) and a three, four, or possibly five day drive depending on weather and lack of problems. It doesn’t have a tailgate but does have the next best thing…..a big butt trunk.

you may be onto something Sniper, I am going to say a rolling wheel gathers no red paint.....

See now a song comes to mind I see a black wheel and I want to paint it red Apologies to The Rolling Stones

I use the in my opinion a lot because most of my unsolicited comments are just that, an opinion and in no manner saying good bad or indifferent....but just as I see it. The fact I will then state the whys and wherefores of my opinion is to say that it is not just a whim or silly notion and give some background, color and size ratio etc...technically I could care less one way or the other what anyone chooses to do as it is not my car no more than if a person likes or dislikes what I do with mine. Big hobby folks, I will admit at one time it would rankle me see what some folks may do...but hard lesson to learn is JUST NOT MY BUSINESS....the red wheels, there is NO WAIVER here......lol

I dunno, call me a snob but I's rather spend my tool money on real quality tools. Like Starret or Mitutoyo. Yeah, they cost a bit more but are definitely quality tools.

Second that thought. Never saw a plug blow apart on a flathead till I had three Champion plugs do it over two days. Switched to AC and never had another issue, same with the NGK which I also use in all my small engines, ATVs and motorcycle.

I don't know the specific number but the carb on my '48 P15 is perfectly happy with the pump with no need for a regulator or return line. The Carter pump is the full-time pump on my car, here is the mechanical pump: 😁

Since the easiest position to replace the bearings is at the bottom of the stroke, two cylinders will have the best access, the other 4 will have severely compromised access. Replace the bearings in the two at the bottom one at a time, rotate the crank until another two are at the bottom, do those and then rotate again to get the last two. It only takes about 4 inches of fuel line that way.

Hello Eric The WD21 (extended length one ton) is a fairly uncommon version. I have a 41 model which is very much the same as yours but I have not seen many others. These came with the larger Budd Wheels like the WF series of trucks. An original interior like yours is also uncommon. I see you have both arm rests. You may have a deluxe cab. They were more common in 47. Do you have a little placard on the dash and an arm under the seat about the middle of the seat? This would adjust the air under the seat (air ride) you could see this with the deluxe cab. Yours is definitely in the survivor category. You may have either the 23 inch or the 25 inch long engine. I am very curious as to if you have the smaller or larger motor as the parts book depict the 23 inch model mine has the 25 inch which I suspect is the correct motor. I am a member of the 39-47 Dodge truck group you should join as some of us are on both sites and the 39-47 has a lot of files and things specific to your era as well. please post some pics of the bed I am missing mine. The oil filters are pretty simple to install I may have one but must check Bob Harrison the other Dodge truck site is https://groups.io/g/39-47Dodgetruck