Jump to content

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/05/2020 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Pipeyjoe

    Lets see pic of your trucks

    Heres my old girl!
  2. 3 points
    Plymouthy Adams

    Glasspacks

    I guess I am a bit different....when I stopped by in my 54 Savoy to see Jake, at State Farm, yes no joke his name and my agent....he asked me to start the engine so he could hear it, imagine his surprise when I said it is running now....
  3. 2 points
    Sniper

    Mid Michigan flood

    I spent years living on the water, but it was in a US Navy destroyer, lol.
  4. 2 points
    as an added and in case you get an inexperienced counter attendant...(notice I did not say parts agent).....Napa stock this in their inventory under part number 65-201
  5. 2 points
    GL1 is readily available at NAPA..if not in stock is in their inventory and available on an overnight....maybe same day if you get there early....it is gallon container but relax, that gallon is better priced than many quarts of other similar lubes....I bought a gallon not long back for under 17.00
  6. 2 points
    BBQ 2020 is in the past, the future is now........I'M READY FOR BBQ #14 2021 BROTHER!!! Lets hope we get through the year with our health intact, and our jobs sound! Here's to friends!!!! Tim aka 48Dodger
  7. 2 points
    Oldguy48

    Please Help, Flathead 6 Low Power

    If the suggestions provided thus far don't lead to the source of your problem, I'll toss another possibility into the discussion. Is there any chance that the issue is a restriction in the exhaust system? Just a thought.
  8. 2 points
    Worden18

    Me and the B-1-D

    5-2-20: I was over at my old property to mow and take care of some things. I still have a lot of stuff there, including my loader and the '48. I hope to transport it to our new house soon. Then I can actually work on it. I did start it today and let it run for 15 minutes. When I get the truck roadworthy it's going to be extra sweet....
  9. 2 points
    I would like to comment on this installation. First off it looks like you did a first class job on it. Bravo! As far as adjustments go I think what you did is just fine. In reality you may make a few adjustments early on to get the correct balance in your braking system. But once you have got it where you want it you won't actually need to touch it. I have had my truck in daily use for over 5 years now and have not had to make any further adjustments. Of course I don't race it....but it has been used more than most trucks here. Hth, Jeff
  10. 2 points
    Tooljunkie

    Lets see pic of your trucks

    So my up and coming truck.made the deal yesterday.
  11. 2 points
    Worden18

    Me and the B-1-D

    10-4-19: Tomorrow I will move the truck one space closer to the Meadowbrook. I might slide it over on wheel dollies as there is no garage door there. 4 car garage, 3 doors 😁. I'll need to park my work car where the truck is now. Getting close to window scraping weather here. BTW fellas, there was nothing under the seat!
  12. 2 points
    Don Coatney

    Door Adjustment

    Joe; Billy Austin just sent me this short film clip on door adjustment. It's a great example of the body wedge fulcrum method. The language the mechanics use is a bit raunchy but there technique is effective. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3p58wHX4e0g
  13. 1 point
    DJ194950

    MOPAR 604 Radio Removal

    Pull the front control Knobs off, I believe you will find a nut under each side that has to be removed to free the radio from the front speaker/radio bezel. All fun? DJ
  14. 1 point
    keithb7

    First flathead!

    I found this drawing of a '48 Plymouth. Is your Desoto the same? I see a hood latch cable here too.
  15. 1 point
    westaus29

    1938 Aussie 7 Passenger Plymouth

    I have visited this site a few times in the past but recently started again and have been impressed with the activity, the assistance offered and the relevance to my interests. I currently have a 1929 Plymouth tourer with body by Holden Australia restored on club licence since 1999, a 1955 Plymouth Belvedere Suburban RHD built in Detroit with 259 V8 and 2 speed auto also on club licence, and a 1938 7 passenger Plymouth with Aussie Richards body, in a million pieces. This my first attempt at a post with pics so hope it works. I purchased the '38 running and licensed in Feb 1981 with the plan of having a car I could use for club events while I slowly rebuilt my 1929 Plymouth from a wreck. It was painted black, the engine barely ran and the leather upholstery was falling apart, but we drove it onto the trailer under its own steam. I cant find any pictures of it as bought but I must have been dazzled by the fact it was a 7 passenger and had all its chrome and fittings. There was no water in the radiator and It turned out the engine had a hole in the head above No 1 cylinder, every pot had broken rings, and water had corroded the bearings, crank and camshaft. The bottom of each centre door post was rusted out, and there was rust in the boot (trunk) area. By July 1982 I had it on the road with new paint (Ford Neptune Blue), new tyres and a temporary engine out of a 1936 Dodge utility (pickup) that we found abandoned up in the hills, and sheets tacked over rebuilt seat frames. My daughter in the pic below is now 41! In the next couple of years I fixed oil leaks, replaced spring bushings, brakes and wheel bearings and changed the diff from original 7 passenger 4.3 to standard 4.1 ratio as we tend to travel longish distances. By 1984 I was ready to replace the interior with upholstery in original blue leather. When I stripped the hood lining I discovered I had serious rust issues under the lead used in large quantities on the roof, which was fabricated from a standard roof cut in half with a central insert about 18 inches wide. The repairs were completed by Nov 1985 and the car was back on the road, however the upholstery guy was no longer available. In 1988 we had a surprise addition to the family, a baby girl after 17 year drought! The upholstery money went on adding a bedroom. In the meantime the car was used as a daily driver by my wife on the school run - rule was "no running in the car"! By 1995 the brake lines had rusted thru, the radiator had collapsed for the second time, the exhaust was shot, valves keep sticking and to cap it off I backed it into our Falcon wagon and badly dented the boot. I deregistered it in disgust as by that time I was making progress on the 29. Fast forward to 2012 and we have changed address, I now have 1/2 acre and a 5 bay shed. However to fit the 7 passenger in it I had to remove the front clip. The car is now a mobile storage unit for surfboards, wetsuits and a couple of broken chairs. But it still runs! I plan to post an outline of the rebuild process which started in 2012, but here is a recent pic of the body on a home made rotisserie - stripping back roof to bare metal after a VERY bad sand blast and prime job. Jim
  16. 1 point
    keithb7

    Recommended transmission fluid

    Putting my ‘38 tranny back together today. I’ll try the Redline MTL.
  17. 1 point
    I have been searching for threads that I have read before about which axle to use. But, today I couldn't fine the information I wanted. Can we generate a list of axles that make a good swap. Don, I know about the list of old mopar cars, I'm looking for the years of Dakota, ranger, explorer and others that may be less than 30-years-old.
  18. 1 point
    heck, working at home now for 9 weeks (!) I barely know what day it is! Today was blursday as far as I know! I have to set reminders on my phone so I don't forget trap league night!
  19. 1 point
    keithb7

    New Car Day! 1938 P6 Plymouth Deluxe

    I did some more reading and looked at my tranny closer again. I think I can answer my own question here about clutch gear wear. See the little brass squares in the pic above? These contact the cone shaped ramp on the adjacent gear. As the sliding synchro ring slides toward the neighbouring gear, the brass area rides up the ramp. As it engages, it speeds up or slows down, to match the rotating speed of the adjacent gear that it is engaging. My brass squares are worn pretty good. Then the speed does not match as well as it should. Then the gears grab and grind a little when they engage. This synchro is only used in gears 2 and 3. I found a new, original Chrysler, still in the box clutch gear assembly on Ebay today for $80. Seemed like deal to me. My tranny getting a new synchromesh. The ramp area on the adjacent gear is the shiny polished ring seen in the pick below. The green arrow pointing at it. I think I am on the right track here. Your comments are welcome. Thanks.
  20. 1 point
    The plugs were all wet/damp when I checked them a couple of days ago. It had run fine right before I changed the oil and filter last October and then it didn't seem to want to fire at all. It is probably flooded right now. I'll have to check this out. Thanks
  21. 1 point
    Did the engine run before you pulled the distributor? Did you install a new distributor cap? When your all set at TDC for #1 cylinder (top of compression stroke), where is the distributor rotor "pointing"? If all is set up correctly the rotor should be pointing to approximately the 7 o'clock position with respect to the distributor body. Then the #1 plug wire should come off the cap tower above the rotor and up to the #1 plug. Then clockwise rotation to other plugs in 153624 order as you stated. If however the oil pump was removed and then not properly indexed when reinstalled the rotor position could be somewhere else other than the 7 o'clock position. This is no real big deal as long as #1 plug wire comes off the tower above the rotor.
  22. 1 point
    1949Plymouth

    1949 Plymouth Deluxe Help

    Just an update from New Zealand. Have decided to stay stock. Have repainted chassis and are now rebuilding front end. Have also just purchased a rebuilt '35 Dodge senior motor. So any any help on where to get parts etc would be greatly appreciated.
  23. 1 point
    dwell is the electrical description for the mechanical period of time the points stay closed allowing your coil to go into saturation for the better spark...it is best described as a duty cycle...
  24. 1 point
    James_Douglas

    Please Help, Flathead 6 Low Power

    There is an other long lost way to time and engine without anything other than a glass of water. You fill clear glass cup with water. Place it flat on the head. Start the engine. Note the wave pattern in the cup while turning the distributor in both directions. Keep doing this until you get an even wave form, like dropping a rock in the middle of a dead still pond and the ripples are even. I learned this technique from an old timer when I was a kid and had no money for a timing light. When you get good at it, usually you can get to within a few degrees of using a timing light. *********** Now all that said if this is a new engine, have you done a compression and leak down test to make sure the rings are sealing? James.
  25. 1 point
    ggdad1951

    Chrome trim color details

    I think it looks nice with the black detail and red body parts....
  26. 1 point
    I had one sit a long time like that and rusted the top 1/2 of the ring gear. It made a wow wow wow noise . It was not real loud but enough that I had to replace it.
  27. 1 point
    kencombs

    Unrestored vs restored controversy

    quote from someone in my past, don't even remember who when I asked what I should do about something: Whatever makes you happy just tickles me plumb to death. His message: Do what makes you happy. The results don't impact me at all.
  28. 1 point
    tom'sB2B

    Flathead 6 Rebuild Information

    I encourage you to read this thread.
  29. 1 point
    keithb7

    A Modern Tune Up?

    Today I was out for a walk in the warm weather. I happened to walk past a local independent garage. Above each bay there was a message; “Tire changes”....Ok. “Oil Changes”....Ok. “Tune Ups”....Huh? So I continued to walk, and now my idle mind had something to think about. I thought about a tune up for our old Mopars. Which might include: Oil bath filter. Clean filter wire mesh in kerosene. Change oil in filter housing. File and set points. Change capacitor. Set ignition timing. Check and set idle RPM. Pull, clean, gap plugs. Check, inspect, replace if needed distributor cap and rotor. Maybe check engine vacuum at intake manifold. Check choke operation, set as required. Tighten carb assembly and mounting hardware. Check & replace if necessary sparkplug and coil wires. Engine compression test. Grease 50 plus points. Possible additions: Minor/major brake set. Check axle bearing end play. Clean grease/repack wheel bearings. Set clutch free travel. Set master cylinder free travel. Test, clean, set voltage regulator. Valve grind. Compared to a 2019 Car that’s due for a “Tune up”. What exactly are people paying for? Plug in and check for fault codes. Reset tire pressure sensors. Toss and replace air filter. Fill window washer fluid. Lol. Us old guys who look after these vintage cars are patient, determined people, mastered in a dying skill.
  30. 1 point
    Plymouthy Adams

    Carburetor/choke problems

    the choke body is a solenoid in and of itself that is activated by a wire from the starter motor or at the motor relay contactor.....if you do not have a wire from the starter to the little electrical solenoid on the manifold.....test to see why...this could well be damaged or just left off because the last guy did not understand how it operated. Check the solenoid with a good VOM then test it electrically with a jumper...if all is well, set the unit up with the jumper and manually lock the position with the carb linkage....once that is confirmed....run you wire normal from the starter and go about starting your car proper procedure. These work excellent when set up and allowed to operate by the user.... ADDED NOTE......when connecting a wire the tab requires a rather short screw...you do not want to go through this tab and hit the manifold and cause a dead short...this may be why it was disconnected as the PO did not understand all of the proceedings.
  31. 1 point
    The residual valvu is the first thing inside the back of the master cylinder.
  32. 1 point
    Andydodge

    Time for an overhaul...

    Beebe......I too have just reread the entire thread and still get info and enjoyment out of it............its 12 months since your last post, how have things panned out re the engine rebuild and the possible turbo install?...........I trust you are going o/k and again thanks for all the effort in posting this thread......regards from Oz.........andyd
  33. 1 point
  34. 1 point
    Plymouthy Adams

    stucked oil ring in T214

    I would look first at the natural breathing of the engine itself. two major areas come into play. One is the fill tube and the vented breather cap..if you have the open sided breather it must be pointed at the firewall to prevent too much air forced into the engine by the fan....second is looking at the scavenger pipe and ensure the position of this tube is correct so to create a venturi effect. This allows vapors in the engine to be removed in such a way NOT to remove small atomized particle of oil along with the vapor....
  35. 1 point
    dndrodshop

    engine swap

    Sedan Delivery project - 5.2 EFI Mopar motor, 5 speed manual, air ride suspension , Dakota front clip, 4-bar rear suspension
  36. 1 point
    Niel Hoback

    Time for an overhaul...

    There's a hole in that theory.
  37. 1 point
    chopt50wgn

    ANSWERED SUCESSFUL REAR AXLE SWAPS.

    This is a pic from the rear of my 50 Ply wagon. We put an Heidts independent rear in. My buddy Tim who is a fabricator by trade and has 30 years experience building hot rods and race cars did the install. Car rides like a new Caddy.
  38. 1 point
    Plymouthy Adams

    48 Desoto Project

    On ‎8‎/‎21‎/‎2017 at 1:19 PM, 52b3b Joe said: I am still continuing to find some more darn mouse homes! I think the car served as an apartment complex for the mice! you got a rat rod and didn't even know it....
  39. 1 point
    RobertKB

    36 dodge smoking white and bad

    Head gasket? Should be a couple of adjacent cylinders with low compression. White smoke usually indicates you are burning anti-freeze.
  40. 1 point
    80 dodge diplomat on my 51 Cambridge. I didn't do it.
  41. 1 point
    50desotocoupe

    Disc Brakes-1950 Desoto

    Oh trust me, I shouldn't have decided to go with different wheels.....slippery slope. I had to press studs into the drums because the new wheels wouldn't work with lug bolts....well, apparently I didn't press them in correctly which screwed up the drums..... it is like a bathroom remodel that starts with a new faucet...lol Here is a before and after picture....just need to put the rear bumper back on after it was straightened.
  42. 1 point
    Last weekend drove the car 120 + miles round trip to Rust-o_rama in Salem. Car drove great, 5th gear 65 mph all day long. Only had to shift down into 4th when I had to pull the Santiam grade just south of Salem..But still was able to maintain 56 mph climbing the hill with the Ol' 201 Flatty..im very happy..
  43. 1 point
    I was inspired by the upcoming holiday and knowing that its going to rain this weekend, I decided to get off early and finish putting my dash back together. B1Bkeven fixed up my speedo and gauges for me and they look great. Thanks again Keven. I also decided to finally wire up my 802 I bought from Reg a year or so ago. Now I'm ready for baseball season on the radio. Go Giants! I wish you and yours a very merry WOYCTD!
  44. 1 point
    Well, I got out of school and got a bit done on my truck today. I finished all the "rough" filler work, and threw some high build on to see where I'm at. The roof actually looks good to go, it looks like GLASS, but I found some spots on the cab I never felt or saw before, but I guess that's what the high builds for, to see all the issue spots and blocking out.
  45. 1 point
    B1B Keven

    218 Oil Filter question

    JC405 (BDN) $13.99 http://www.baxterautoparts.com/Order/OrderFormInterchange.aspx?mode=search or search 'Baldwin JC405'. http://www.adiesel.com/baldwinfilters/JC405.html I know where I'm going next.
  46. 1 point
    greg g

    1942 Dodge blackout

    As long as they had chrome pieces in inventory they used them tillthey were gone.
  47. 1 point
    PatS....

    Door Adjustment

    Not sure if you have seen this or not: http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Lit/Master/025/cover.htm 35 page booklet from Mopar called "Body Fitting Facts"
  48. 1 point
    JerseyHarold

    Door Adjustment

    Try this link for the 'official' Mopar service booklet on body adjustments: http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Lit/Master/025/cover.htm The car on the cover may look familiar...
  49. 1 point
    Plymouthy Adams

    Show your tools.

    there is more to a man that the tool he uses..just where is this one heading
  50. 1 point
    Merle Coggins

    Fuel Sending Unit

    Under the seat there should be a round plug in the floor. Pop that plug out and you will have access to the sending unit. Merle By the way... When I put my sending unit in I added a grounding terminal to assure that the sender was properly grounded. I drilled a hole through the plate and put a machine screw up from the bottom with a little Permetex sealer. I then use a second nut to attach my ground wire, which runs to one of the trans cover bolts. I dont' have to worry about counting on the ground through the mounting flange and the tank attachments.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use