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Matt Wilson

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Matt Wilson last won the day on February 23 2019

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About Matt Wilson

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    Junior Member, just joined the forum !

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  • Location
    Keller, TX
  • My Project Cars
    1949 Dodge Power Wagon


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    Dodge Power Wagon

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  1. Weren't there some of the flatheads that had oil passages cast into the block, which exited the rear of the block and connected to oil passages that were cast into the front of the transmission, or something like that? I seem to remember someone bringing up something like this. I just want to mention this, in case the original poster has to get this kind of block. Not trying to add confusion to the situation, but just trying to make sure it's not overlooked - if it's even relevant.
  2. Welcome back to the forum. I'm sorry to hear of your loss and the difficulties you're having with your insurer. Do you mind elaboratimg on this? When I get my vehicle running again, I am planning to get full coverage insurance from my regular auto insurance company. I had wanted to avoid using classic car insurance due to my perception of how restrictive the policies are. I understand that classic car owners are restricted to pretty low annual mileage limits, and classic truck owners are subject to the same mileage limits and are not allowed to carry cargo. Also, I think we're
  3. Have to you tried disconnecting one spark plug wire at a time and seeing if the noise is still there? If the noise goes away or diminishes when one wire is removed, then that cylinder is the likely culprit. If it's not the bearings, then maybe piston pin wear or piston slap. Also, have you taken off the valve covers to check for excessive valve looseness? I've heard of someone who had a tappet adjuster screw that lost its fit inside the tappet, and it backed off, causing a lot of slack in that part of the valve train.
  4. You might also consider buying a dial indicator and using it to see how much runout your crankshaft has. My manuals say the runout at the "center journal" (it seems to me that there are actually two "center" journals - i.e., #2 and #3) is supposed to be no more tyan 0.003". This seems large to me, but it's what the manuals say. This is for new parts, while ised parts have a wear limit of 0.005" runout. Anyway, if the runout is too large, that could be causing your crankshaft to bind in the bearings.
  5. Back in the late 80s, I worked at an industrial repair shop. They did all kinds of repairs and installations of manufacturing equipment, along with sheet metal fabrication, and other metal machining/welding/fabrication, etc. I was one of the mechanics who worked on their company service trucks and did that part-time and sometimes full-time throughout the latter part of high school and most of college. Anyway, they had some forklifts (three, I think) and at least a couple of welders that were powered by flathead sixes. In hindsight, they were probably Chrysler sixes. That's also
  6. You mention the sign being a reproduction...I wonder if any of the ads can be found as reproductions. I'd love to assemble a collection like yours, even if they were all reproductions.
  7. Over on www.dodgepowerwagon.com, I once read a guy's post, which said he stuck a pressure gage on his cooling system and found the system pressure to be about 10 psi with the engine (and water pump) running at an engine speed of around 3000 rpm. At idle, it was 1 or 2 psi.
  8. Another thing I've been contemplating is how to adjust the valves with a set of headers in place. I plan to use a set of Langdon headers on my engine, which completely block access to most of the tappets. Tom (Langdon) recommends setting the clearances cold and just running the engine that way for good, and not ever coming back to set them when hot. He says others have done it this way with no issues, but the idea of doing this still leaves me a little bit uncomfortable, thinking the valves are not really set white right. I may end up doing that, but I thought I'd see what other folks thin
  9. You can also look at the fracture surfaces of the rings under magnification to see if there are any signs of rust. If there are, then those surfaces were broken long before now; if not, then they are probably fresh breaks.
  10. I wonder what people do to accurately adjust valves when the tappets have recesses worn into them. When I disassembled the 251 engine I'm rebuilding now (converting to 265), the tappet adjusting screws had recesses that perfectly mated with the tips of the valve stems. The recesses were probably 0.005 - 0.010" deep. A feeler gage will obviously no longer work to give accurate clearance readings at that point. If the owner or mechanic doing the adjustment realizes this situation, I suppose the old, worn adjusters could be removed and replaced with new ones, but I doubt that could be done wi
  11. I'm just now coming in on this thread. It's been some great reading, and I wish you the best of luck with it all. One thing I'd like mention is you should exercise extreme caution when using a ridge reamer. I used a ridge reamer on both flathead sixes that I've rebuilt, and both machine shops (different shops, 15 years apart) told me, after I had already done it, that they advise their customers not to use them. They don't even use them themselves. They recommend just pounding the pistons out the top of the block. Of course, that breaks the rings and ring lands, making it much
  12. As one data point, you can go to the Best Gasket website and they will tell you the compressed thickness of head gaskets for our engines. I think the thickness value is 0.042" for my 25" block. Of course, that is for their brand of gasket. Other brands may vary somewhat, but at least this gives you an idea.
  13. Also, based on what I've read, an increase in compression ratio only results in a power increase of a few percent. For example, I think I read that a change from 8:1 to 9:1 only increases the power by around 5% for an overhead valve V-8. I suspect it would be similar for a flathead six. Such a small power increase is probably not noticeable to most of us.
  14. Sniper, would you happen to have the Milodon part numbers for the studs you used? Also, I agree that studs are not needed for our relatively low-performance engines, but in my case, I plan to use them because it makes it easier to mount things to the head, such as a dual-carb intake, horn, oil filter, etc., without having to figure it all out 100% ahead of time, before torquing the bolts in place. My plan is to use studs with some extra length, torque the primary nuts in place (to torque the head and gasket), then install the items I mentioned above onto those nuts, using a second
  15. I agree. I see people asking for stock head thickness info all the time, but after 60 - 80 years, I doubt there are very many that haven't been cut already. Also, I'd be a little wary if the accracy of any numbers I might find, unless they were from a factory manual or similarly reputable source. Measuring the combustion chamber volume is more tedious and time-consuming than measuring the thickness, but it's also a much more reliable way to get the answer you're looking for. Ideally, you would measure every cylinder. Once you get these volume(s), you'll have to do a little math to see if
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