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Matt Wilson

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Matt Wilson last won the day on February 23 2019

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About Matt Wilson

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    Junior Member, just joined the forum !

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  • Location
    Keller, TX
  • My Project Cars
    1949 Dodge Power Wagon


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  • Interests
    Dodge Power Wagon

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  1. Nevermind, I just now saw the other topic that you started, where you described the problem.
  2. Not to take this thread on too much of a tangent, but do you mind elaborating on what happened to your valve guides to cause so much oil burning?
  3. I had the same thing happen - machine shop had not sufficiently flattened the plugs, and one of them popped out and I lost all coolant. Engine overheated big-time, causing a crack in the head and possibly breaking a ring (I found a broken ring when I disassembled the engine, which could have been due to overheating or installer error, meaning my error when I assembled the engine). I went through the entire engine and replaced all the core plugs, including the one on the backside of the block and the one behind the timing chain. I made sure to flatten them well and carefully. There were a fe
  4. I suppose the next question coming to mind has to do with the opposite of air leaking out of the cylinder. That is to say, if the seal at the spark plugs is compromised enough to let air escape, then is it enough to let water into the cylinders whenever water has puddled in the spark plug recesses? Maybe not, as it seems like we would have heard about it being an issue and causing rusty cylinders by now. But it's just a thought....
  5. Right, I kinda figured the same thing about not including the lube part when using as a filter. Just interesting that they would use this type of material for a filter, but then I guess a lot of filter elements are made of porous sintered or similarly constructed materials.
  6. Yeah, good point about using the correct hardware. I should have mentioned that. The correct hardware is very important. Using the wrong hardware will eventually cause one or both the manifolds to crack (I think it's more an issue with the exhaust manifold).
  7. Interesting article. I never thought about using Oilite as a filtering element.
  8. Glad to hear that you had success in getting it resurfaced. It sounds like you now plan to separate the intake from the exhaust and replace the gasket, check the heat riser valve and likely replace the four bolts holding the two manifolds together. How do you plan to get those two freshly machined surfaces back in plane with each other when you reconnect the two manifolds? I suppose you'll install them somewhat loosely onto the block, with the four middle bolts (the ones that connect the two manifolds to each other) also being a little loose, and then carefully snug all bolts in
  9. Weren't there some of the flatheads that had oil passages cast into the block, which exited the rear of the block and connected to oil passages that were cast into the front of the transmission, or something like that? I seem to remember someone bringing up something like this. I just want to mention this, in case the original poster has to get this kind of block. Not trying to add confusion to the situation, but just trying to make sure it's not overlooked - if it's even relevant.
  10. Welcome back to the forum. I'm sorry to hear of your loss and the difficulties you're having with your insurer. Do you mind elaboratimg on this? When I get my vehicle running again, I am planning to get full coverage insurance from my regular auto insurance company. I had wanted to avoid using classic car insurance due to my perception of how restrictive the policies are. I understand that classic car owners are restricted to pretty low annual mileage limits, and classic truck owners are subject to the same mileage limits and are not allowed to carry cargo. Also, I think we're
  11. Have to you tried disconnecting one spark plug wire at a time and seeing if the noise is still there? If the noise goes away or diminishes when one wire is removed, then that cylinder is the likely culprit. If it's not the bearings, then maybe piston pin wear or piston slap. Also, have you taken off the valve covers to check for excessive valve looseness? I've heard of someone who had a tappet adjuster screw that lost its fit inside the tappet, and it backed off, causing a lot of slack in that part of the valve train.
  12. You might also consider buying a dial indicator and using it to see how much runout your crankshaft has. My manuals say the runout at the "center journal" (it seems to me that there are actually two "center" journals - i.e., #2 and #3) is supposed to be no more tyan 0.003". This seems large to me, but it's what the manuals say. This is for new parts, while ised parts have a wear limit of 0.005" runout. Anyway, if the runout is too large, that could be causing your crankshaft to bind in the bearings.
  13. Back in the late 80s, I worked at an industrial repair shop. They did all kinds of repairs and installations of manufacturing equipment, along with sheet metal fabrication, and other metal machining/welding/fabrication, etc. I was one of the mechanics who worked on their company service trucks and did that part-time and sometimes full-time throughout the latter part of high school and most of college. Anyway, they had some forklifts (three, I think) and at least a couple of welders that were powered by flathead sixes. In hindsight, they were probably Chrysler sixes. That's also
  14. You mention the sign being a reproduction...I wonder if any of the ads can be found as reproductions. I'd love to assemble a collection like yours, even if they were all reproductions.
  15. Over on www.dodgepowerwagon.com, I once read a guy's post, which said he stuck a pressure gage on his cooling system and found the system pressure to be about 10 psi with the engine (and water pump) running at an engine speed of around 3000 rpm. At idle, it was 1 or 2 psi.
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