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Matt Wilson

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Matt Wilson last won the day on February 23

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About Matt Wilson

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  • Location
    Keller, TX
  • My Project Cars
    1949 Dodge Power Wagon


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  • Interests
    Dodge Power Wagon

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  1. Well, that's unfortunate. However, I suspect that with good care, the galvanized steel tubes will probably last many, many years.
  2. A couple of years ago, there was someone on Ebay selling NOS brass water distribution tubes, but I did a quick search on Ebay just now and couldn't find any brass ones. Doing a search of the forum archives should bring up the seller's name and if they are still there, you might get lucky enough to find them. I seem to remember them being pricey - something like $150 each.
  3. There's also a thread titled "Engine Rebuilding Gotchas" under the Technical Archives of this forum, pinned at or near the top of that page. Most of the discussion in that thread applies to most if the Mopar flathead sixes, including the 218. There's also an Army manual sold by Vintage Power Wagons, which covers the 230 engine, but virtually everything would apply to the 218, except things like crankshaft stroke. Fastener torque, clearances, etc., are all the same as on the 218. Others here can confirm this. This manual goes into pretty great detail. I don't have the manual number in front of me, but if you call them, they will know what you are talking about, or you can find it on their website, I'm sure. They may also recommend a rebuild manual for the Chrysler industrial engines. It's pretty good, but the Army manual may be a little better. I have both, and they are both a lot better than the Dodge Truck factory manual that I have, in that they provide a lot more instructional details and specifications.
  4. Thanks, I will definitely be giving him a call. I took a look at his Facebook page, and he definitely goes for the vintage iron, including a lot of old Mopar flathead sixes. He even has a couple of posts about the detailed rework and upgrades he does on rods. Sure seems like he knows what he's doing! If anyone can do what I need on those bolts, it looks like he would be the one.
  5. So these are photos of one of the 265 rods modified by Federal-Mogul? The bolt head recess in the upper half doesn't look modified at all compared to a stock 265 rod (I'm holding one in my hand right now). That is, unless F-M modified the spotface in the bottom of the recess to accommodate the shape of the new bolt they used. But maybe they didn't have to. It kinda looks like the head of the new bolt is tapered on the underside. Maybe it fits the tapered bottom of the recess in the rod? Speaking of which, I think I was mistaken when I previously said the stock 265 bolt head has a hemisperical underside. Looking at it more closely, it may just be a sloped/tapered/chamfered underside. I have to wonder what stock bolt F-M used? I think I would want the underside of the head to fit well to the rod. If the underside of the head is flat, not tapered, then it's going to contact the rod over a thin ring at the outside edge, unless the spotface in the recess is modified to be flat instead of its current taper. And of course, in grinding material off the bolt head, one must be certain not to overheat the bolt at all. If you measure the thickness of the modified bolt head, I can measure the thickness of one of my stock 265 bolts and see how they compare. Or we can compare thickness from the rod parting line to the top of the bolt and see hiw thise dimensions compare. This would give us a good idea of whether the modified 265 rod will have adequate clearance when installed.
  6. Great info, Ken! Thanks! Loren, my apologies, I didn't mean to hijack your thread. Matt
  7. So if I were to call ARP and give them the dimensions of the stock 265 bolts (the various diameters and length and whatever else they want), and tell them I want a "football-shaped" bolt head, you think they may be able to recommend something for me? I'm just asking because I've never heard of a football-shaped bolt head, but that doesn't mean much - there's plenty I've never heard of. I just want to be sure I understand what I'm asking for. Thanks.
  8. Well, I ended up buying a set of springs from Andy Bernbaum this afternoon - just ordered straight off their website. I'm guessing they are NOS, but as long as they were preserved properly, they'll be fine. They were $4.00 each. I had thought Summit's price was $3.99, as I posted earlier, but I must have been looking my screen cross-eyed, because when I went back to the Summit website later, I realized they are actually $5.99 each. Thanks to everyone for your input! Matt
  9. If you look at the cam bearings, you will probably find that #2 and #3 have two holes in each bearing. George Asche (well-known Chrysler flathead six guru) says he installs the bearings so that the smaller hole lines up with the oil hole in the block, thereby restricting flow to the cam bearings to keep overall system oil pressure up and to direct more oil flow to the crank bearings. He says the cam bearings still get plenty of oil this way.
  10. Great info! Seeing what a rotator looks like, I can say confidently that there were no rotators on any of the valves (intake or exhaust) when I disassembled my engines.
  11. I actually checked with ARP a couple of years ago, had a few discussions and even sent them a 265 bolt, and they said they could probably make them, but when I asked the price, they didn't come up with a specific number, but said it would be at least a few thousand dollars. That killed the deal for me. As you said, if several of us were to go in on it, it might become more palatable. Of course, by the time they would complete their development, it would probably be too late for me, as I hope to have my engine assembled in a few months (of course, that's what I said a few months ago....and a few months before that...and before that...). As for your photos, the p/n of your rod is the same as my rods, so I know it's a 265 rod. It's interesting to see how someone has adapted the 265 rod to accommodate the 251 bolts or vice-versa. I have a set of 251 rods and had thought about doing something like that, but I was concerned about whittling away on the rod to do so. After seeing your photos, it doesn't seem so bad. I suppose a machinist would need to machine out the socket to eliminate the hemispherical shape and just make it flat inside to fit the 251 bolt, and maybe open up the diameter of the hole, as the 251 bolt head may be bigger in diameter than the 265 bolt head. I wonder how one would hold the bolt stationery while torqueing up the rod nut? Anyway, this is certainly food for thought. It does look like it would have adequate clearance inside the engine. If Federal Mogul remanufactured it, that certainly gives the idea more credibility. As a point of comparison, here is a photo of a 265 rod with a 265 bolt installed. Note that the bolt is not snugged up all the way, so the head is not as flush with the rod as it normally would be in service (you can see a bit of a gap between the bolt head and the rod).
  12. Yes, the bolts in the 265 are different from the ones in the 251. Here are a couple of pics of a 265 bolt. They're flat on top and have kind of a hemispherical shape on the underside of the head, where it fits into a socket/recess in the rod. It has a nub sticking off the side of the head, which fits into a keyway in the rod to hold the bolt stationery when the rod nut is being tightened or loosened. Also, here are a couple of pics showing the portion of the rod where the bolt fits.
  13. Thanks for the info. I'm thinking that even if I were to buy the springs that are meant to be used with rotators, and even if I could find the rotators, I bet they are meant for use with sodium-filled exhaust valves, and wouldn't fit my valves. It's sounding like I just need to buy (Qty 12) VS-304 springs and call it good, unless someone else knows of a reason not to.
  14. This is interesting, indeed. I looked at the catalog at your link. For Dodge engines (presumably Dodge car), it shows 12 of each spring, either VS-304 (w/o rotocaps) or VS-506 (with rotocaps), making it appear that it's optional to use either kind. For Desoto and the some Chrysler car engines (through 251 cid), it shows six of each, although it doesn't specify which kind of spring goes on the intake and which goes on the exhaust. For the 265 Chrysler car engine, it goes back to saying 12 and 12. For the 218 Dodge and Plymouth marine applications, it only calls out the VS-304 (Qty 12). Then for the Dodge 230 marine engine, it's back to 12 VS-304 or 12 VS-506, and same for the 236 marine. But then for the 265 marine, it only lists the VS-304. For the 218, 230 and 236 Dodge truck engines (light-duty), it calls out 12 VS-304 or 12 VS-506. Then the 251 light-duty Dodge truck engine calls for six of each spring, and actually specifies that the VS-304 goes on the intake and the VS-506 goes on the exhaust. I have to wonder if they really have everything specified correctly in this catalog?? In any case, I wonder if it would be worth it to buy the rotocap type of spring for my exhaust valves. I suppose they are intended to make the valves last longer? I don't know if the rotocaps come with these springs, or if the springs will even fit the standard valves that I have.
  15. I don't know that the Power Wagon engine had rotators. The only thing I recall seeing when I disassembled this engine is the same thing I saw when I was working with my 230, which was the valve spring retainer on each valve. There wasn't anything I would call a rotator. I guess I'd better be careful of what I end up purchasing.
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