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Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/01/2020 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    Tooljunkie

    Lets see pic of your trucks

    So my up and coming truck.made the deal yesterday.
  2. 2 points
    Sniper

    Mid Michigan flood

    I spent years living on the water, but it was in a US Navy destroyer, lol.
  3. 2 points
    as an added and in case you get an inexperienced counter attendant...(notice I did not say parts agent).....Napa stock this in their inventory under part number 65-201
  4. 2 points
    GL1 is readily available at NAPA..if not in stock is in their inventory and available on an overnight....maybe same day if you get there early....it is gallon container but relax, that gallon is better priced than many quarts of other similar lubes....I bought a gallon not long back for under 17.00
  5. 2 points
    BBQ 2020 is in the past, the future is now........I'M READY FOR BBQ #14 2021 BROTHER!!! Lets hope we get through the year with our health intact, and our jobs sound! Here's to friends!!!! Tim aka 48Dodger
  6. 2 points
    I would like to comment on this installation. First off it looks like you did a first class job on it. Bravo! As far as adjustments go I think what you did is just fine. In reality you may make a few adjustments early on to get the correct balance in your braking system. But once you have got it where you want it you won't actually need to touch it. I have had my truck in daily use for over 5 years now and have not had to make any further adjustments. Of course I don't race it....but it has been used more than most trucks here. Hth, Jeff
  7. 2 points
    Worden18

    Me and the B-1-D

    10-4-19: Tomorrow I will move the truck one space closer to the Meadowbrook. I might slide it over on wheel dollies as there is no garage door there. 4 car garage, 3 doors 😁. I'll need to park my work car where the truck is now. Getting close to window scraping weather here. BTW fellas, there was nothing under the seat!
  8. 1 point
    kridgleyud

    1940 Dodge D14 Build Thread

    Hello everyone. I wanted to start a one-place thread to update the group on this build. I have a couple little threads out there, but this one will tell the story (comedy or tragedy, we'll see) on the breathing new life into my 1940 Dodge D14. To tell the story, we have to rewind to 2008 ... that is when I sold my 1973 Stingray. The wife and I then got a boat ... and you know what they say about those. Fast forward through 7 years or so of nagging her until she finally caved and agreed to get another car ... her only requirement, it needed to have 4 doors ... done. I knew I wanted to get a prewar car and I started this adventure in 2015 looking to get a 1937 Desoto. The deal fell through the day I was going to pick it up - the seller decided not to sell it/ or sold it to someone else, I'll never know now. A few weeks went by and I found this 1940 gem for sale in Pennsylvania ... called the guy and went right out to take a look. Here are the photos when we looked at it/brought it home back in 2015. Cutting it close on the prewar era and some say it;s not ... but it was made by the US in the US and we were still technically not IN the war until 41 ... that's my story!
  9. 1 point
    keithb7

    First flathead!

    I found this drawing of a '48 Plymouth. Is your Desoto the same? I see a hood latch cable here too.
  10. 1 point
    Dodgeb4ya

    Shop lift

    Our sales taxes are going to end up as much as the item pretty soon because of the current situation going on.
  11. 1 point
    Ulu

    ebay bidding

    That's quite the nice hub puller. I need to dig mine out. My Scout has a typical frozen parking brake. Hasn't been released in 30 years. Maybe more. I'll probably have to heat the hub, unless I get lucky, and the guy that installed Dad's 4:88 gears put a good coat of anti-seize on, back in 1962. That's only 58 years. I don't think we ever touched the rear brakes. Anyhow I used eBay to buy that OT kit car I posted, and I got lucky and came in $1000 less than my max bid. But I would have been happy either way, because nobody wanted it more than I did and I won.
  12. 1 point
    keithb7

    Recommended transmission fluid

    Putting my ‘38 tranny back together today. I’ll try the Redline MTL.
  13. 1 point
    Midwestmopar

    Tips on buying a new to me mopar

    Well the car made a 240 mile trip home Friday, then its driven about 40-70 more miles since that trip. The car is doing great. I put it on a lift today to check out the underneath. Turns out its pretty solid.
  14. 1 point
    I have been searching for threads that I have read before about which axle to use. But, today I couldn't fine the information I wanted. Can we generate a list of axles that make a good swap. Don, I know about the list of old mopar cars, I'm looking for the years of Dakota, ranger, explorer and others that may be less than 30-years-old.
  15. 1 point
    keithb7

    New Car Day! 1938 P6 Plymouth Deluxe

    I did some more reading and looked at my tranny closer again. I think I can answer my own question here about clutch gear wear. See the little brass squares in the pic above? These contact the cone shaped ramp on the adjacent gear. As the sliding synchro ring slides toward the neighbouring gear, the brass area rides up the ramp. As it engages, it speeds up or slows down, to match the rotating speed of the adjacent gear that it is engaging. My brass squares are worn pretty good. Then the speed does not match as well as it should. Then the gears grab and grind a little when they engage. This synchro is only used in gears 2 and 3. I found a new, original Chrysler, still in the box clutch gear assembly on Ebay today for $80. Seemed like deal to me. My tranny getting a new synchromesh. The ramp area on the adjacent gear is the shiny polished ring seen in the pick below. The green arrow pointing at it. I think I am on the right track here. Your comments are welcome. Thanks.
  16. 1 point
    A fwiw post, I have seen cars sit for months or years, and the fuel pump not pick up and work, last time was a 57 cheby with a 283. Once I started it running off a gravity feed tank, the original pump started working after a few minutes. I think this is caused from a small hole or a weak diaphragm. My neighbor has a 62 cheby with same issue. Have to feed it fuel until it gets going. I told him he needs a new fuel pump, I think he is waiting for me to come over and replace it. Point is, if you can add fuel in the carb and get it to run, you need to look in this direction. I know on my 49 dodge, I pulled the distributor and later found when I installed it I had a different issue. My intake seemed to have a lot of fuel sitting in the bottom. Once I fixed the firing order, it fired right up and ran ok since.No clue if my intake today still has fuel sitting in it, but I would not worry about that.
  17. 1 point
    It can sit there for a long time on a cold engine....it will be a puddle if down there....plugs can be will be wet or dry ...I have been thru this,,,worth checking out. I understand maybe a weak spark but it did run fine till it sat and incorrect after sitting start procedure can get you into this situation. If it is flooded... leave the throttle open for few hours or a day...put throttle back to closed .... a pump or too and try cranking it... hopefully it will start up.
  18. 1 point
    mrwrstory

    Front suspension swap

    This is a Kugel Komponents IFS I patched in to the stock frame. I an very happy with the performance and ride after 35K miles.
  19. 1 point
    I had one sit a long time like that and rusted the top 1/2 of the ring gear. It made a wow wow wow noise . It was not real loud but enough that I had to replace it.
  20. 1 point
    kencombs

    Unrestored vs restored controversy

    quote from someone in my past, don't even remember who when I asked what I should do about something: Whatever makes you happy just tickles me plumb to death. His message: Do what makes you happy. The results don't impact me at all.
  21. 1 point
    John H.

    Front brake drum questions.

    I guess that's what happens when you're working on an old vehicle. Every owner has made their mark somewhere along the line. I'm just going to take my time, photograph everything, and take notes. Again, I appreciate the help and input, and I wish you all well with all of the crap that's going on. John.
  22. 1 point
    Eneto-55

    Unrestored vs restored controversy

    All interesting comments. I just react against the idea that I am "only the caretaker" of my old car, not the "owner". As I said, I DO like to see an original car, but I am not interested in creating some sort of museum piece that I don't dare drive. That's another thing about getting a real low mileage car - you almost can't drive it much at all, because its main "claim to fame" is that it is low mileage. When I bought my 46, it already had over 91,000 on it. I just want to make it as reliable as I can, and if that means some modifications then I'll do that (but then again, nothing drastic like a modern drive line, or a frame graft). I'd like to be able to redo the interior with some fabric that at least looks close to the original mohair, but at this point, I'm thinking more about trying to find something that looks like the typical seat covers of that era, because that's what I remember as being in almost every car my folks had when I was growing up. (To put that in context, my memories start in the very late 50's, when I was 4 or 5.)
  23. 1 point
    MackTheFinger

    Show your tools.

    This only sorta qualifies as a mechanic's tool. Front side is a regular measuring stick. Anybody recognize the back side of this rule? I used one of these every day at work for over 35 years. Almost felt like I needed one in my hip pocket when I wasn't at work..
  24. 1 point
    tom'sB2B

    Flathead 6 Rebuild Information

    I encourage you to read this thread.
  25. 1 point
    keithb7

    A Modern Tune Up?

    Today I was out for a walk in the warm weather. I happened to walk past a local independent garage. Above each bay there was a message; “Tire changes”....Ok. “Oil Changes”....Ok. “Tune Ups”....Huh? So I continued to walk, and now my idle mind had something to think about. I thought about a tune up for our old Mopars. Which might include: Oil bath filter. Clean filter wire mesh in kerosene. Change oil in filter housing. File and set points. Change capacitor. Set ignition timing. Check and set idle RPM. Pull, clean, gap plugs. Check, inspect, replace if needed distributor cap and rotor. Maybe check engine vacuum at intake manifold. Check choke operation, set as required. Tighten carb assembly and mounting hardware. Check & replace if necessary sparkplug and coil wires. Engine compression test. Grease 50 plus points. Possible additions: Minor/major brake set. Check axle bearing end play. Clean grease/repack wheel bearings. Set clutch free travel. Set master cylinder free travel. Test, clean, set voltage regulator. Valve grind. Compared to a 2019 Car that’s due for a “Tune up”. What exactly are people paying for? Plug in and check for fault codes. Reset tire pressure sensors. Toss and replace air filter. Fill window washer fluid. Lol. Us old guys who look after these vintage cars are patient, determined people, mastered in a dying skill.
  26. 1 point
    Earl Gray

    ANSWERED Gyromatic is Stuck

    Very helpful. Thank you! I disconnected the battery many times while trying to get the wiring right (cross-referenced post below) that it most likely reset it then. Good to know a solid solution. Thanks again!
  27. 1 point
    Tooljunkie

    Handbrake hardware

    I added an additional spring,figured out there was a missing return spring and jigged it up. Haven’t tested it yet,but im sure its better. will be getting a conventional e-brake eventually,as the 8.25 rear diff has it.
  28. 1 point
    So sorry to hear that the BBQ could not be held this year. I haven’t made the 7140 mile trip there since 2017... but I wil do everything possible to be there with my partner Roz in 2021. As my trucks will most likely never make the trip from ‘Down Under’ to the USA, I have posted a couple of photos for my ‘virtual attendance’ this year. Stay safe my forum family. Davin aka DesotoDav in Burbank (Australia)
  29. 1 point
    The factory valve will be too much for disc brakes, been there - done that. Remove it and try without any valve, you may be pleasantly surprised as I was years ago.
  30. 1 point
    IMO glass and rubber first (siding with JB on this one). Less chance of mucking up the interior stuff dinking around with the glass. IMO easy to put the interior into the slot in the rubber than to try and get 2 things to engage at once.
  31. 1 point
    Andydodge

    Time for an overhaul...

    Beebe......I too have just reread the entire thread and still get info and enjoyment out of it............its 12 months since your last post, how have things panned out re the engine rebuild and the possible turbo install?...........I trust you are going o/k and again thanks for all the effort in posting this thread......regards from Oz.........andyd
  32. 1 point
    greg g

    Time for an overhaul...

    Just read this thread. The step up valves are entering he equation of afr at cruise because the total vacuum signal that held one valve closed is now being shared by each carb. So each carb is getting half or 1/3 of the single carb signal meaning that the spring tension will not be completely overcome leaving valves partially opened when they would normally be closed at steady level road cruise.
  33. 1 point
    chrysler1941

    Interior light mystery ??

    It's good advice to disconnect battery when checking wirings. For measuring, it's easier with power on, so after disconnecting battery cable, I use a small lead with 15A fuse with alligator clips on both ends . In case of shorts, only fuse burns.
  34. 1 point
  35. 1 point
    Plymouthy Adams

    stucked oil ring in T214

    I would look first at the natural breathing of the engine itself. two major areas come into play. One is the fill tube and the vented breather cap..if you have the open sided breather it must be pointed at the firewall to prevent too much air forced into the engine by the fan....second is looking at the scavenger pipe and ensure the position of this tube is correct so to create a venturi effect. This allows vapors in the engine to be removed in such a way NOT to remove small atomized particle of oil along with the vapor....
  36. 1 point
  37. 1 point
    Dodgeb4ya

    “Rocker transmission”

    5 speed OD case marking.... no OD stamp....... no OD odd gear shift pattern.
  38. 1 point
    Plymouthy Adams

    48 Desoto Project

    On ‎8‎/‎21‎/‎2017 at 1:19 PM, 52b3b Joe said: I am still continuing to find some more darn mouse homes! I think the car served as an apartment complex for the mice! you got a rat rod and didn't even know it....
  39. 1 point
    well....for the life of me...can't upload my pics and they are'nt even 2 mb!! I give up...you will have to trust me! Ha!
  40. 1 point
    mopar_earl

    1949 Plymouth Deluxe Help

    Nicopp is ment for brake tubing. It won't rust/corrode like metal. It's easier to bend and flare than stainless. It can be bought anywhere. I used nicopp on my car for the brake lines and fuel lines. I also used stainless steel flare nuts. I used dot 5 brake fluid. So yes, it's safe and legal to use nicopp! Actually it's a smart thing to do. Copper is and will always be unsafe and illegal to use for brakes! Just like compression fittings. Earl
  41. 1 point
    RobertKB

    36 dodge smoking white and bad

    Head gasket? Should be a couple of adjacent cylinders with low compression. White smoke usually indicates you are burning anti-freeze.
  42. 1 point
    80 dodge diplomat on my 51 Cambridge. I didn't do it.
  43. 1 point
    I didn't have any work to do ON my truck, but since today was designated "yard work day" I decided to work WITH my truck. I used it to run to Menards for some mulch.
  44. 1 point
    I was inspired by the upcoming holiday and knowing that its going to rain this weekend, I decided to get off early and finish putting my dash back together. B1Bkeven fixed up my speedo and gauges for me and they look great. Thanks again Keven. I also decided to finally wire up my 802 I bought from Reg a year or so ago. Now I'm ready for baseball season on the radio. Go Giants! I wish you and yours a very merry WOYCTD!
  45. 1 point
    Well, I got out of school and got a bit done on my truck today. I finished all the "rough" filler work, and threw some high build on to see where I'm at. The roof actually looks good to go, it looks like GLASS, but I found some spots on the cab I never felt or saw before, but I guess that's what the high builds for, to see all the issue spots and blocking out.
  46. 1 point
    B1B Keven

    218 Oil Filter question

    JC405 (BDN) $13.99 http://www.baxterautoparts.com/Order/OrderFormInterchange.aspx?mode=search or search 'Baldwin JC405'. http://www.adiesel.com/baldwinfilters/JC405.html I know where I'm going next.
  47. 1 point
    greg g

    1942 Dodge blackout

    As long as they had chrome pieces in inventory they used them tillthey were gone.
  48. 1 point
    PatS....

    Door Adjustment

    Not sure if you have seen this or not: http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Lit/Master/025/cover.htm 35 page booklet from Mopar called "Body Fitting Facts"
  49. 1 point
    Don Coatney

    Door Adjustment

    Joe; Billy Austin just sent me this short film clip on door adjustment. It's a great example of the body wedge fulcrum method. The language the mechanics use is a bit raunchy but there technique is effective. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3p58wHX4e0g
  50. 1 point
    Plymouthy Adams

    Show your tools.

    there is more to a man that the tool he uses..just where is this one heading
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