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  1. 2 points
    Hickory

    Northeast member check in please

    Fulton New York, sounds like fun. I haven't taken the car over a 20 mile ride yet. May not make it with the car
  2. 1 point
  3. 1 point
    CO54

    B4 Series owners

    Doubtful on the white cloud of smoke, but other stuff probably...... LOL
  4. 1 point
    Dodgeb4ya

    23" short block weight?

    750 lbs seems kinda high for a fully assembled 23" engine.. 565 lbs was stuck in my mind on a post as long time ago.
  5. 1 point
    JBNeal

    23" short block weight?

    A fully assembled flathead weighs in about 750#; the block alone weighs about 160#... lift with the legs
  6. 1 point
    I used the rusty hope kit with the ECI master. ECI just needed to know what calipers were used with the rusty hope kit so he could supply the correct mater cylinder. I used the Rusty Hope kit because they were the only ones who would say their kit would fit a stock 15" wheel any competent machine shop can drill and tap your spindles.
  7. 1 point
    rockingjd

    Which rear end to swap in 1946 WD15

    I used a '02 Jeep Grand Cherokee rear under my 49 1/2 ton. 3.55 ratio and disk rear brakes. It fit nice but the rear bolt pattern was not 5 on 4.5. It was also a little bit narrower. An adapter fixed both width and bolt pattern.
  8. 1 point
    Sniper

    engine rebuilt and back in car

    Cheaper than new axles though
  9. 1 point
    dpollo

    engine rebuilt and back in car

    a speedi sleeve makes a nice repair but they are spendy.
  10. 1 point
    Todd B

    1951 B3F Build Thread

    When I did my semi I took them bushings out that look like brass. They’re technically a different metal but I don’t remember what. I took them to an old German machinist and he measured them and handed them back to me. Went to get them week later and I tried to install them. They appeared to be a little to large in diameter and I could not slide them in. I called the old machinist and told him I can’t get them to slide in. He very bluntly said put them in a freezer for an hour and slide them in and there’s no need for you to call me back. They slid right in. He even made grooves around the outside for the grease to roll through. It amazed the heck out of me.
  11. 1 point
    Started building the exhaust today. No pictures of that yet. Ran out of tubing, will finish after Xmas. Few just because pictures.
  12. 1 point
    Start with removal of the shiny special pieces. Usually long lead time for restoration by specialists. Last year for the Dodge Brothers enamel emblem. Sent to Karla Maxwell of Maxwell Enamels, http://www.maxwellenamels.com/Home_Page.html, for restoration. Upon receipt, Karla wrote: "Your UNIQUE badge just arrived. Did not see it in the photo but your badge is the rarer USA version. It is my understanding that the USA only showed on vehicles meant for export. Those badges don't show up very often." Certainly can't explain that, since the truck was found in Colorado. Continue to remove bright shiny objects.
  13. 1 point
    NickPickToo

    In Memory of Don Coatney

    I'm a new member, but I learned quickly to look extra close when I got a note from Mr. Coatney or sourced one of his threads on an issue I was studying. Mrs Coatney and family. Thank you for sharing him with us.
  14. 1 point
    linus6948

    Bucketlist Car For Me Aquired

    Thanks for the kind words guys, I think of it as another antique time machine to try and catch Peter Pan in. Here is a shot of the car with the stock wheels.
  15. 1 point
  16. 1 point
    Andydodge

    331 hemi heads

    Classic............where do I send the cheque.........lol.............thanks mate.......andyd
  17. 1 point
    Todd B

    Engineering flaws

    I did not want to high jack Marks TODD build thread so I thought I would start my own. Talking about engineering flaws, I rented a JLG lift for a month few months and they have the exhaust blowing at the operator. It’s not only noisy, it’s annoying as hell with the smoke blowing towards you. I looked at it and took out three bolts and rotated it. It’s only being held by two of the three bolts but now it blows away from the operator. What were they thinking??
  18. 1 point
    All good stuff, Keith! I dropped the transmission from my '61 Falcon while in high school and that was with the car up on blocks out in the yard! Probably not very safe now that I say it...
  19. 1 point
    Merle Coggins

    Headlight relay verification

    You stated it yourself. Since the brake light load isn't going through the ammeter it doesn't sense the current demand. However, the voltage regulator does see the voltage drop in the battery and increases output of the generator, thus showing a positive charge on your ammeter. If the brake light circuit was pulling through the ammeter it would read a negative number for the current draw of the lights, and the positive charge from the generator would offset that. The ammeter would then only show the difference.
  20. 1 point
    Plymouthy Adams

    Headlight relay verification

    majority of the folks utilizing the dual relay are taking the cue from the modern car that has the dimmer switch on the turn signal stalk and yes they utilized two relays and they also fuse both low and high beam circuits. With our era heavier components, even the stock light switch is heavy in our old cars, BUT they are getting old and showing contact wear same as we are. This wear is thinning contacts and with higher current and thin contacts this is a failure in the making thus the relay to remove the current and continue using the switch just to energize the coil of the relay. Just feed the dimmer switch input from a relay and leave all other wiring in place as stock. The wires will more than handle the current and your only task here is ensuring they are not frayed, nicked and have clean contacts at all junctions and clean grounds, star washer work wonders on grounds.
  21. 1 point
    keithb7

    Headlight relay verification

    @Jeff I induThe purpose of a relay: In the old days, the lights were wired up so that all the amperage needed from the ammeter, to light up the head lights, (hi & low beam) went from the ammeter to the head light switch. Then from there all the way out to the headlights. This is not ideal. Heavier amp loads are travelling through the headlamp switch, and also farther unnecessary distances. In time, as the old cars age, the lights get dimmer, mainly due to poor condition of old corroded wire and rusty/loose poor ground connections. This coupled with old headlight switches that also are boreline usable, can be dangerous. Things get hot and could ignite. This indeed happens. So always mount a fire extinguisher in your old car somewhere. What a relay does is relieve the switch, and the wires with long travel distances, from the heavy amp load that is required to illuminate headlights. A smaller amp load signal is sent through the headlight switch and from there on to the relay. The relay is another switch, that then switches on the heavy amp load from the battery as shown above, directly to the headlamps. This is safer, and often the headlights actually glow brighter.
  22. 1 point
    Sniper

    265 Chrysler Industrial Project Engine

    Here's a link to The Freewheeling Tony Smith's rod work album on face book, this guy is an artist. Rod work on Mopar flathead 6's
  23. 1 point
    Pulled the pan and pulled the valve covers. Couldn't ask for better results! No sign of water damage anywhere. The best news of all is the crank does turn!! After taking the pictures I got to thinking about it and decided to try again. As I turned on the crank nut only the nut turned and then after thinking about it I suspected that I hadn't tightened the crank nut back when I was assembling the front of the engine. At the time I was really only test fitting things and then the move from Arkansas to Kentucky took place so progress stopped. So I tried turning a little harder and all of a sudden the pulley turned indicating the crank had as well. As you can see in the pictures there is an abundance of lube inside the engine that gradually moved south over the years. With luck sometime this winter I'll try and start the engine. Brad
  24. 1 point
    Brent B3B

    your Trucks History

    these bigger trucks sure got used. in getting the build card for mine, I learned it was ordered by the US Navy and afterwards it possibly served as a fire department fleet rig. do you know the history of your truck or have a guess how it was used?
  25. 1 point
    Haydenh

    your Trucks History

    I still need to write in to SCA to request the build card for my truck as I think it would have a pretty interesting history being a 1948. All of the information I got from the previous owner about its history was that it was his grandpa's grain truck in Rexburg, Idaho. On the side of the passenger and driver's side door are: "L.V. Sorensen Rexburg, Idaho". I wasn't able to turn up much through internet search of the name or location so it might remain a mystery. It did have sides for grain hauling but they were fairly rotten so I pulled them off and will be replacing something with a little more visibility. The dump bed works great though! I did discover from the serial # that it was the 618th B-1-J to roll off the line which I thought was pretty neat. It does however have a 251 flathead from a 1962 WM300 Powerwagon as its engine so I don't know if the original froze up in the Idaho cold and cracked or if the old worn out engine just got replaced. The carburetor is a little wonky and I'll have to ask some folks to help me figure out what's missing from it and where to get a rebuild kit if I can't find anything from a forum search. Its got a 5 speed with the strange shift pattern but I don't believe its any sort of overdrive, top speed is around 50mph (with iPhone gps) downhill. Thats all about the history I know on it but I'll be lurking around and asking questions as I fix up the truck that has been fitfully named "Clifford" because its a big red dog!
  26. 1 point
    Frank Elder

    My new 54

    What an awesome color combo my favorite in the world is the Dodge three tone....yellow, black and white.
  27. 1 point
    Dodgeed

    License Plate Collecting

    Here are some of the plates I'd mentioned in the earlier post.
  28. 1 point
    JBNeal

    Door limiter?

    additional information - Door Check Operation
  29. 1 point
    Not all horns use relays. Do you have a single horn or duals? From what I’ve seen the single horns didn’t use a relay. Dual horns did. And as has been said, that wire is the ground side of your horn circuit. It goes up to the horn button/ring.
  30. 1 point
    I've locked em up enough times in my long ownership. safe and straight. This truck was my daily driver for almost 10 years here in Seattle tacoma Everett area.... It probably stops as good as most of the disc brake conversions..maybe better. Although too many hard stops and the fade factor could be an issue... but I never drive it to that point especially now that it's an elderly though very healthy antique .. .To me it's just my good old dodge truck with excellent brakes I've driven longer than most of the people who see it have been alive.
  31. 1 point
    The standard brakes on the 1 ton axle are really, really good brakes. Discs would be a move backward, IMHO.
  32. 1 point
    This might or might not help.
  33. 1 point
    Goddom

    PTO controls

    Here are pics. There are no stops for either. It looks like for the engage/disengage there is a natural stop so no stop mounted on the floor boards and it didn't hit the floor. For actuating the dump, there are no stops and in one direction it will hit the floor but not in the other direction. I also included a picture of my dash so you can see where my speed-O is :-)
  34. 1 point
    Goddom

    your Trucks History

    I still need to get the build card for mine. After I got mine home I was just looking through it and found a plastic envelope with proof of insurance and such from the owner before the guy I bought it from. Also in the envelope was a bunch of pictures. There was also a bill of sale for $200 dated in 1995. I suspect that was for tax purposes... or maybe he did buy it for $200. I am guessing at about that time (mid to late 90s) is also when the cab got painted silver. I know the previous owner never took the truck off his property and he owned if for about 7 years. He used it to build a gravel driveway on his property. This was all in the upper peninsula of Michigan. Then as I was cleaning up the flaking paint on the dump box I found it used to say "Coal." So at some point it mus have worked as a coal hauler. I am guessing that maybe this was also around the same area.
  35. 1 point
    BobT-47P15

    Paint colors (engine & accessories) list

    This list may be available on this website somewhere, but thought I would post it again in case some had not seen it. The colors apply to a Plymouth P15, but should be similar on other brands and models. Additional Plymouth Paint Information (Dodge is believed to be similar) Silver Black (Semi Gloss) Gray Unpainted Block Oil Pan Head Water Pump Oil Pump Paint Details Front Engine Mounts Mainfolds Clutch Housing Transmission Oil Filler Tube Dipstick Tube Front Pulley Thermostat Housing Heater Bypass Hose Starter Generator Distributor Body Wire Loom Holder Coil Holder Coil Air Breather Air Cleaner Air Cleaner Steady Breather Brace Valve Chamber Vent Valve Chamber Tube Fuel Pump Shield Fan & Pully Oil Filter Filter Brace Steering Box Entire Frame Brake Master Cylinder Brake Lines Inner Front Fender Shields Radiator Side Shields Engine Dust Shields Hood Lock Plate Brace Horns And Bracket Bumper Supports Radiator Support Radiator Cross Bar Under Body Inside Floorpan Underside Of Hood Underside Of Trunk Lid Front Stone Guards Rear Stone Guards Front Fender Center Panel Grille Panel All Fenders (Inside) Inside Trunk Area Trunk Hinges Trunk Wheelwells (Trunk Side) Backside Of Wheels Fuel Pump Carb Fuel Lines Oil & Vacuum Lines Accelerator linkage Shift rods
  36. 1 point
    Flatie46

    Is Craftsman comming back?

    One thing that really makes me mad is that just because it says it's made in the USA doesn't mean it is. I think like if you buy like for instance a socket set. As long as 30% of what you bought was made in the USA they can say it was. But this counts the box, packaging, and odd crap. So the actual tools or most of them wouldn't have to be. Or you have the secnerio where it's put together here with parts from other countries. Its all very frustrating to me.
  37. 1 point
    Finished the exhaust this morning. Photo shows it all welded and ready for paint. Video shows it installed. Estimates for a shop to make the dual exhaust for my 47 coupe ranged from $900 to $1400. I did it for $400 and had parts left over from the bend kit that I bought. First part shows the exhaust without the splash pans. Shop said that there was no way to keep it. Second part show that I was able to do the impossible I guess. Not a very good video but can't expect much for only 18" of clearance, holding a light in one hand and the camera in the other. lol
  38. 1 point
    One of the quickest ways to get a quick health check on your electrical system is watch your ammeter! It will tell you all kinds of valuable information if you know how to read it! Most modern cars now use a voltmeter to provide limited information about your electrical system. Or even worse just a warning light to let you know your alternator has failed. Because voltmeters are now the norm the skill of interpreting the information the ammeter provides is becoming a lost art. Let’s walk through a driving sequence to understand what the ammeter will reveal about your electrical system. Entering the car your the ammeter should be reading "0", straight up. You may see a quick defection to the minus side if your have an interior light that comes on with opening the door. It's at "0" because you are not using any or generating any current (engine is not running). When you turn on the ignition you will see the needle move slightly to the minus (discharge) side indicating a discharge of a couple amps. This means your ignition system is getting power. When you hit the starter the ammeter will deflect sharply to the left (minus 20-30 amps) as the starter spins. The energy for the starter is being drawn straight from the battery. As the engine fires the ammeter will quickly move to the plus side (charging) of the gauge in the 20-30 amp range. The energy that was drawn down from the battery while starting is quickly being replaced by charging current from the generator. As you start driving the voltage regulator will manage the amount of charge needed to go back into the battery. After around five minutes of driving typically the battery will start to approaches full charge and you will see a reduction of charge rate down to 1-3 amps on the plus side. At this point the battery has fully recovered from the starter discharge and now the generator is putting out only enough current to maintain the charge. The voltage regulator manages the on-going charge rate.

 While your driving night time is coming and it is getting cooler. You turn on your headlights and start up the heater fan. Immediately you see the needle momentarily jump to the minus side, then come back to 1-3 amps on the charge side as the regulator manages the generator output to meet the increased demand. As you come to a stop sign and the engine speed drops, the ammeter will move sharply to the minus side, often 15-20 amps down. You notice the lights dim and the heater motor may slow. Right now your generator is not creating enough power to offset the increased load of the headlight and heater motor and is drawing backup power from the battery. This lack of sufficient power generation can fully discharge a battery if allowed to go for a long period. The short stop at the stoplight however, is not harmful. In fact, you can always bump the manual throttle to bring the idle up enough to stop the discharge. As soon as you accelerate from the stop the generator will again start generating sufficient current to replenish the energy pulled from the battery (expect a jump to 5-10 amps charge for a short period) before settling back to a trickle charge of a couple amps while driving.
 
So how can you use if for some basic troubleshooting? When you first get in and step on the break pedal, the ammeter should deflect slightly to discharge as the brake lamp lights. This lets you know the battery has some charge. No deflection? Battery is probably dead or disconnected. Also when you turn on the key if you don't see a slight discharge indication your ignition is probably not connected or functional. If when turning on the key and immediate your have a full discharge (minus 35 amps) you have a dead short that needs to be repaired. Immediately turn off the key and begin trouble shooting to find the electrical short. Otherwise you risk the very real danger of a wiring fire. Might start your troubleshooting at the headlight switch as they have historically been trouble spots due to corrosion resistance in the connectors. If you are running and suddenly see a continuous discharge usually this indicates a voltage regulator issue. Try tapping the regulator case with a screwdriver handle to see if a relay is sticking and it starts charging again. On teh other hand if you see a continuous rate of high charge (> 20 amps) that never goes down you may have a battery starting to fail (it's not taking or holding a charge) or a voltage regulator failing. Either way it's time to troubleshoot the generator and regulator charging circuit. 

By watching the action of your ammeter your can easily tell if your electrical system is functioning correctly. It will tell you if you have a short, your battery is full charged, how fast it is charging and how much current your are consuming while driving. Compared to a voltmeter which simply gives system voltage, ammeters allow you active monitor your electrical system. 

Share what on the road lessons have you learned by paying attention to your ammeter!
  39. 1 point
    hkestes41

    1939 Plymouth Business Coupe

    On the ring gear, place a cinder block on end then lay the flywheel on top. Use a torch to heat the ring gear and when it expands it should come off easily with a couple of light raps of a mallet. Then wait until the wife is gone shopping and will be gone for a while. Wrap the flyweel in tin foil and put it in the freezer. Then put some more tin foil on the rack of your grill and fire it up with the ring gear inside. Let the flywheel freeze for about 45 min and the ring gear cook for about 20 - 30 min then back to the cinder block. Working quickly, lay the flywheel back on the cinder block, then drop the ring gear back on with the side with good teeth facing the block side of the flywheel. Because the flywheel has shrunken slightly because it was frozen and the ring gear has expanded slightly because it was cooked, the ring gear should simply fall into place. Once the temperatures have normalized the ring gear will be locked in place. At least that is the way I did mine and the wife never has to know what was in her freezer.
  40. 1 point
    My father and I made the 4 hour trip to Venus and spent a few hours with George today. I'm getting closer to transforming my 1947 237 engine in to a dual carb 265. George was gracious enough to give us the "nickel" tour which not only included merchandise but some of his past and current projects. It was a day spent well, with one of the nicest gentleman there is. Rob
  41. 1 point
    P15-D24

    Pilot-House Decals Are Done.

    I want to thank B1B Keven for putting together this project and helping support the site!
  42. 1 point
    40plyrod

    Rust free 40 plymouth sedan

    More progress. My master cylinder install is now done, minus paint and plumbing. I'm pretty happy with the results. I ended up having to machine a new pin boss to weld to the brake pedal arm to get enough stroke for the ford master cylinder but the pedal ratio is still fine. More pics
  43. 1 point
    DutchEdwin

    headlights showing almost no light

    The information I have found so far is this adjustment manual on the relays. Missing is the section where it mentions the fuse rating. HRB-4201 relay.pdf
  44. 1 point
    Jim Yergin

    headlights showing almost no light

    Edwin, Auto-Lite HRB-4201 Jim Yergin
  45. 1 point
    DutchEdwin

    headlights showing almost no light

    Randy, thanks, I did some seaching on this site, and come up with some good posts. http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=16390&highlight=headlights+relay http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=28661&highlight=headlights+relay Also the wiring diagram I was planning to use.
  46. 1 point
    JBNeal

    1949 B-1-D-126 BUILD THREAD 1-ton

    Now that the major house repairs are done, I've been able to get back to work on this ol' beast. The steering column & gearbox parts were all cleaned up & treated with Rust Cure. The original column was bent, and the gearbox end was torn off. Its replacement was a pitted column that had the shifter brackets removed. The holes in the column were filled with JB Weld, and I figgered I'd try to smooth out the surface with the JB Weld also. All of these parts were foam brush painted with Rust-Oleum primer & semi-gloss black, wet sanding the non-cast pieces in-between coats. I only tried to smooth off the surface to the touch on the non-cast pieces, so brush marks are visible, but only from about a foot away...good enough for these parts. Assembly was waaay easier than disassembly...The gearbox seal I picked up from Roberts years ago, National 240151. I opted to use the John Deere corn head grease for lubricant, even though the fill plug is stamped "HEAVY OIL ONLY". I filled the chamber between the sector shaft bushings with grease before installing the sector shaft. With the gearbox held so that the sector shaft was vertical, the cavity was filled with grease, then the worm shaft was rotated about a dozen times back & forth to settle the grease out, as it does flow, especially when agitated. This movement allowed the grease to fill the roller bearings, around the worm gear, and through the sector shaft gear, as the gearbox became whisper-quiet and effort was greatly reduced after shaft cycling. Permatex black was used to make the gasket for the gearbox cover...I debated on making a paper gasket for this gearbox, but I had recently serviced the axles on my '02 Ram 4x4 CTD, where both axles use RTV for differential cover gaskets. So I figgered making a RTV gasket for this application would be just as acceptable. The adjustment was made per shop manual instructions for the sector shaft to find the high spot on the worm gear, and the assembly cover cap screws were torqued. Gearbox installation should be in the next few days, with all new bolts...then we'll see if that motor will fire after sitting for 4 years
  47. 1 point
    B1B Keven

    Gauge faces.

    They're done. I also made and had printed some clock faces using the same font. Shoot me a PM if interested.
  48. 1 point
    Merle Coggins

    steering wheel

    Here's the contraption that I used. It's a bearing puller used with an H bar puller. Merle
  49. 1 point
    48Dodger

    Bonneville Day 3

    YEEEHAWWW!!!!!! lol.....what a blast! had the best time ever. I'm pretty happy to have a place to share the experience too. Bob was a great driver and he and his brother Earl made great pit crew members. Next year Earl wants to drive too. The best moment was watching my son take the wheel. He really is my best friend and to be able to share that moment on the track, meant an awlful lot to me. Thanks guys for the kind words. Nice to have friends who get how fun these trucks are. 48D
  50. 1 point
    TodFitch

    Rear transmission seal

    I do wish that people who go to all the effort to find a currently available matching part would post the Chrysler part number for the thing they are matching.... Am I correct in assuming that this Timken seal number 471827 is for the Chrysler part 600420 listed earlier in this thread? If so, I'll add it to my cross reference database. PS: That Timken number when entered into the NAPA Online advanced search gives a match CarQuest number for a manual transmission rear seal with nearly identical measurements. The NAPA number is NOS 15620 which is listed for $11.50.
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