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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/12/2020 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    dcotant

    J NUT for Fenders

    J-nuts from Tractor Supply are a perfect replacement, thanks Gaige and thanks to everyone that offered help with this.
  2. 2 points
    casper50

    started on the 55 pontiac

    I've been messing with getting the brake lines run, new MC and bleeding them. Front caliper banjo bolts would not seal. Went through 3 sets of copper crush washers before I bought new bolts which finally did the trick. Installed the two rear door panels.
  3. 2 points
    40desoto

    Air ride

    Thought I'd share in case anyone on this post is interested. I ended up using Slam Specialties 6 inch airbag (SS6 model) luckily it fit right in the frame's spring pocket without having to cut any of the frame out for clearance. I also cut out the raised spring anchor on the lower control arm and welded a plate to mount the airbag too. I'll post some pictures from my phone.
  4. 2 points
    Brent B3B

    Hand cranking

    take two?
  5. 1 point
    Not commenting because I find the triangulated 4 link to the one of the last the styles of rear suspensions I would use. Doubtful you will find a kit that doesn't need fabbing to work and as old as these vehicles are I wouldn't trust any of them to be square and true to blueprint. So you may as well get a universal 4 link setup and custom fit it. But if I was going to put a different rear suspension in I would look at a truck arm suspension.
  6. 1 point
    Judy needed a table for her yard sale. Video at
  7. 1 point
    Sharps40

    1937 Dodge, Ol Bessy Is Coming Home!

    I'll put this in here as a place holder and hopefully no only will it come home after 21 years but I'll be able to tell the story of bringing it back to life herein. Dad called. We have been looking for a 37 Dodge to take the place of Ol John Lee the 65 Chevy Truck I had been driving. Fortunatly he found the car. My/his/our car. His Dad bought it for him. I worked with him on it and road around in it all my life. It became mine at 20 years old and I drove it till a drunk hit me on the drivers side totaling it when I was 30. I sold it. Dad found it. Its been sitting in the hotrod shop in VA for 21 years waiting to be finished. The owner knows we want it back. As is, or accident damage repaired and running/driving. So for now Dad and the shop owner talked it over and Ol Bessie is "Back in the Que" for repairs. Don't know what the costs will be or if I can even afford it but we'll start with trying to own it again and move out from there. With luck I can at least geti it home to the garage.....maybe more. As it sits, and just before the wreck 21 years ago it had: New upholstery that I sewed myself from scratch, I had redone all the woodgrain finish on the metal trim, rebuilt the dash gauges, installed a new wiring harness, built a Ford 200 6 with weber carb, new radiator, TCI Streetfighter C4 Trans, new leaf springs and shackels, new front suspension and kingpins (wonder how many folks don't have a clue what kingpins are?), rebuilt the steering box and brake system, new glass, new rubber. It was a solid daily driver. For years with a flathead and three speed and all that work had under 1000 miles on it when the accident occured. But, Dad said he wants the shop to work up the estimates on a running driving car with the accident damage fully repaired. We'll see......I am excited and guarded at the same time.
  8. 1 point
    Bob Riding

    Another wagon followed me home

    Well, I did not need another project, but this was too nice to go to the scrapper. A friend told me about an old Chrysler wagon with a hemi, that had been sitting in the same spot for 39 years, up in the mountains of northern CA, about 3 hours from my house. I talked with the owner, a nice fellow, a lumberjack, sawmill owner who used it for his business in the 70's and in 1981, parked it when it began to smoke and drip oil a bit. He covered it up, and although the snow caved the roof in a bit here and there, everything else is in remarkable shape, even for a California car. It is a 1954 New Yorker Town and Country wagon on a 125 in wheelbase. It has the last big old-style hemi- the 331 cu in motor with the 2 bbl Carter carb making 195 hp. If you swap it out for a 4 bbl Carter, it jumps to 235 hp. It has the Powerflite 2 speed auto trans and power steering. There is one small rust spot under the driver's foot area, but the frame, floors, rockers, etc and all solid. I may switch horses here, shift concentrating on the '52 Plymouth Suburban, and begin restoring this one, as it will hold the grandkids and make a great, comfortable cruiser. I need to find some folks who have restored Chrysler wagons, to see where the pain points are.😲. So much fun!
  9. 1 point
    Young Ed

    Coolant Leak Source

    Oh gotcha ya I doubt you'd find that unless part of an old water pump rebuild kit.
  10. 1 point
    Sniper

    V-belt Tension?

    Ah, the German method, gutentite. Learned that one from an old boss of mine, born, raised and educated in Germany. His Dad was in the Wehrmacht and wore out three horses going into Russia, spent ten year in Russia after the war ended before they let him go. He had an interesting outlook on things. Good engineer and a car nut, though his preferences ran to Mercedes.
  11. 1 point
    Jeff I indu

    49 royal first drive towed home

    This meter is all i have for now. I hooked the sending unit up in series and cant detect a voltage drop at all when moving the float. There is a garage up the road and I will check with them tomorrow to see of they have a better meter. Still need to check the gas gauge for grounding issues up front. Just trying to verify the sending unit first. Thanks for everyone's input. It really helps a ton. Will advise more tomorrow. Jeff
  12. 1 point
    50mech

    49 royal first drive towed home

    Unfortunately that meter isn't going to work for resistance here. I looked up the manual for a gmt 312 and it actually does only measure resistance in thousands of ohms. When 1 is actually 1000, 30 is going to look like zero. You may be able to see a voltage change if you run the meter in series. Sender unhooked but grounded, one lead on car wire one on sender terminal. Depending on the operation of this meter it may still not show ( depends if it uses an internal shunt)
  13. 1 point
    casper50

    Am I just a grumpy old man?

    I was given this T shirt in the last few weeks.
  14. 1 point
    Here's some pics of what I'm attempting. Basically, I've just transplanted the system off the later model military engine. I'm in process of making an adapter between the carb and the air cleaner housing. It's almost done, but I need to silver solder the boss to my adapter and drill and tap for 1/4-NPT. I've also ordered a oil fill tube from vintagepowerwagons.com that already has a fitting and also a sealed oil fill cap. Once this is done, all I need to do is plumb them together. I hope! Lols!
  15. 1 point
    Brent B3B

    Odds and Ends for the B4B

    1. I would clean them up, re lubricant and re use them if it were me 😊 2. Classified add like JB said 3. Nuff said.....
  16. 1 point
    JBNeal

    Odds and Ends for the B4B

    1. Those appear to be brake shoe lubricating washers and covers, needed to keep the brake shoe anchor bolts lubricated and free of moisture...not sure who supplies those, but ya might have some luck placing a parts wanted add for a member who might have an old mayo jar full of'm... 2. That shock absorber bushing washer might be available if ya purchase some new shocks, though ya might want to reach out to a parts house or the manufacturer to see if you can get them...the curved shape is to match the shock rubber bushing contour and keep the bushing and the shock from moving laterally... 3. Those 4 marks are evidence of staking with a cold chisel...this deforms the seal flange and its mounting surface enough to lock the seal in place so it will not spin nor pop out of its bore
  17. 1 point
    casper50

    started on the 55 pontiac

    A bit more progress.
  18. 1 point
    I called your wife and told her to put some fresh oil near the thermostat cover tomorrow....😉
  19. 1 point
    minicooper

    Lets see pic of your trucks

    On holidays I usually do something community oriented instead of vacationing. This U.S. Memorial Day I decided to pick trash along the highway near our place and of course the '52 was my companion. This road was first paved by the county, probably early 1950's (they dug the fill dirt for it from our property from what I can tell) and I'm sure there was a B series Dodge doing the work.
  20. 1 point
    greg g

    Overdrive speeds

    I run indicated 65 which is 63 on the GPS. Will do 70 if needed for a burst. More concerned about brakes. Mostly stay on regular highways instead of interstates.
  21. 1 point
    Brent B3B

    B4GA- 152

    Ok, cleaned up the booster, blasted and zinc plated (home done) some parts. Threw on some leftover paint cost= free Installed a “minor” rebuild kit cost= $50. eBay Most expensive area so far, Sent the wheel cylinders up to be re sleeved cost= $400. Includes; re sleeving, brake switch, bleeder screw for the booster, new “crush washers”, the 3 rubber hoses and shipping 1-1/2” Master cylinder Rebuild kit Cost= $22. Rock auto Parts look SO pretty, too bad it won’t last 😊 Cleaned up some more of the two speed parts. The back of the speedometer switch had a rusted pivot and a disintegrated spring. I was able to pop the rivet, work the pivot free and replace the spring with one I had lying around. I took apart the shift cable and cleaned it up, took some kinks out, re lubed it.... little smoother cost for both= free (so far just the labor)
  22. 1 point
    Dodgeboy49

    Brake options on a B-1-D

    Every post is better with a couple pics.
  23. 1 point
    westaus29

    Welds Done!

    Great job! Good to hear even the expert struggles a bit with welding patches into 70 yr old metal. Even when it looks clean it sometimes behaves very contrary. Just when I think I have my settings right and all is going well, all of a sudden it turns to chookshit (from Aussie chickens)
  24. 1 point
    greg g

    shock absorbers

    Found the receipt for the fronts on my 46 they were the 5752s. Also in my manual l have a sticky note with the Gabriel number 81469 which shows for rear. Specs are extended 22.54 collapsed 12.68 and stroke of 8.8 Also have a note for 82156 Extended 20.33, collapsed 12.37, stroke 7.9
  25. 1 point
    Plymouthy Adams

    Low Oil Pressure and Knock

    on the AVERAGE....only the very lowest bolt on the fender at the cowl gives issue as it is the one that seems to always have a certain degree of dust and dirt holding moisture. But as stated, that is my experience.....each person has to make the call for attack...they just need to know what options are available..... working solo I set my engine and tranny today...barely nicked the paint on front corner of oil pan....dang...touched up and you would never know it now.....
  26. 1 point
    bkahler

    Spicer differential yoke

    Do you suppose this is the right Spicer dust cap ?! I'll know in a few days, I just ordered one JB's going to be disappointed because I won't have to blacksmith anything 🤣 Brad
  27. 1 point
    Dodgeb4ya

    Spicer differential yoke

    Here's a Cleveland out of a 1/2 ton truck with the 4 tang grease cap retainer out of a 50 Dodge panel
  28. 1 point
    CO54

    Block size question????

    Perfect, Thank you!!
  29. 1 point
    linus6948

    Bucketlist Car For Me Aquired

    Replaced incandescent 1157 tail light bulbs with red led bulbs New Red LED bulb on the right
  30. 1 point
    Stewart Woollard

    Time for an overhaul...

    As I am planning on rebuilding my engine soon, I just took the time to read this in one sitting. The high level of machining is fabulous. The attention to detail is incredible. Thank you so much for taking the time to document your build, I realise how time consuming that is. Being new to these flathead 6s, I don't even know what I don't know! This thread has helped enormously. Thank you again. Cheers, Stewart.
  31. 1 point
    westaus29

    1938 Aussie 7 Passenger Plymouth

    The first time I restored this car back in 1982, it was just a freshen up, a temporary engine, a bit of rust removal and a coat of paint. This time I decided to do a full back to bare metal resto as it is a fairly rare model and has suffered badly over the years. It is the first time I have done a car of this size and vintage, and I dont think I really understood what a BIG job it would be. First problem was the length of the vehicle. I needed to free up 2 bays of the shed, one for chassis and one for body. AS you can see below even with bumpers and front guards removed, it was parked up against my spares shelving. So all the spares had to go on the floor and the shelves were shifted to the end of the shed where I used to keep the garden gear. Next step was to unload the junk out of temporary storage in the 38 body. This included two broken chairs from our vintage kitchen set, which we had bought when we first moved to Mandurah after years of temporary living in mining towns. This was old by Aus standards, a simple design made of solid Tasmanian Oak with Walnut veneer hilites and the decision was made to restore and keep it. It turned out pretty well after I managed to get some more Walnut veneer from an artisan in the Perth hills. Sorry, a bit off topic I know. Then the real work started, stripping doors, seats, guards, bonnet and boot lid, lights, radiator etc. Note the jump seats which are specific to the 7 passenger. Now the problem was where to put all the bits? I hung as much as I could from the roof trusses. But that left a lot of big items like seats, running boards, glass, dash, bumpers and gas tank. So down to the salvage hardware to get the material to fabricate a mezzanine loft. At last I have room to start! Two and a half months to get to this stage.
  32. 1 point
    52b3b Joe

    Paint - Base/Clear or Single Stage?

    I'm not a body guy or a painter, but I've painted enough cars to know a little bit on the subject. Both single stage and BC/CC will work fine. Personally, I've made my decisions on a few things. For me it first comes down to if it has metallic in it, what kind of "look" I'm after, and how much I want to spend. If it is a metallic paint, my opinion is to use BC/CC. It's more forgiving with the metallic paints, and you can wet sand and buff with good results. If it's a solid color, I look at how much I want to spend on paint, and how I want the vehicle to look (a period correct look, or a better than new look). Depending on the line (quality) of paint, single stage is normally cheaper. Single stage also give a more period correct look and finish. If you are after a flawless, better than new, perfect paint job, then you probably want to go with BC/CC. In the end, as other said, its all about the result you're after. I personnally prefer single stage on 40s-50s cars/trucks. Here is my truck in single stage, and here is a 48 Desoto I painted in single stage. The Desoto has very cheap urathane single stage and it looks great. I think there is maybe $750 in the entire paint job (primer, material, paint and filler).
  33. 1 point
    pflaming

    IMG_2847

    These pictures show the history of my B3B since I have owned it. Hidden Under the oxidization was the original blue paint. Then it was in my shop fire and asit is now. The 2nd build was more work than the first. Soot is nasty stuff.
  34. 1 point
    Plymouthy Adams

    Time for an overhaul...

    A home lift is a great asset......they are very much affordable these days and something that I recommend if you do much work on cars. I use mine not only for ease of access for mainenace actions I also do 90% of my body welding with the car on my lift. Even welding interior as you can raise it just enough to lean in and weld. Body work is a much easier also for the side and lower extremeities. Overall one of the better shop aids one can buy for themselves.
  35. 1 point
    59bisquik

    1955 C1B Build Thread

    More progress today. Unloaded the 315 and stripped and cleaned. Made a pile of stuff that will not be going back on and worked on painting. I didnt do the oil pan. Pretty sure I will need the front sump pan from the 270.
  36. 1 point
    59bisquik

    1955 C1B Build Thread

    Few pics of my ride and a few other Dodge trucks from Viva Las Vegas 2017.
  37. 1 point
    rb1949

    Front Coil Springs

    1949-1950 Plymouth: Up front, the cars used coil springs with different rates on the right and left sides because, Plymouth's engineers reasoned, highways in the eastern United States, as well as Canada, were more steeply crowned than those in the West. (Hemmings)
  38. 1 point
    Dodgeb4ya

    Dodge_Fleet

    Fleet of H-Duty Dodges
  39. 1 point
    Smokeybear

    Air ride

  40. 1 point
    Smokeybear

    Air ride

  41. 1 point
    Can't imaging why he wouldn't want this next to his high dollar trailer queen. I'm still kicking myself for not taking more/better pictures when I got a chance to see it in person. i believe I downloaded these from one of your posts a while back. Merle
  42. 1 point
    John-T-53

    valve adjustment nervous

    This was my easiest experience adjusting valves...no wheel removal required, no burnt hands, no neck strain...
  43. 1 point
    Merle Coggins

    valve adjustment nervous

    It's good to see that my video is still getting some play. You don't have to do your valve adjustment with the engine running, but I have found that it is a little more accurate. You can also adjust the valves with the engine off. The procedure should be in the shop manual. (edit: I just checked the manual and it references adjusting with the engine running) The engine should be hot for a proper adjustment. If you go to the "Resources" tab at the top of this page there is a Tech section with a valve adjustment procedure for engine off. You don't need any special tools, but they help. You will need 1/2" and 7/16" open end wrenches. If you get yourself a set of tappet wrenches you will find that they are easier to use. They are longer and thinner and work better for reaching into the valve area. Also, longer bent tip feeler gauges make things easier as well. Again, it helps with the reach. These tools also help keep your hands further away from the hot exhaust manifold. And speaking of that... a good pair of gloves is a plus too. I'm not familiar with your truck model, but on the Pilot-House trucks the inner fender panel comes out, and if you pull the right front tire you have fairly good access to the valves. Maybe Ed can chime in on the earlier trucks. And again, on the B-Series trucks the clearance specs are; Intake .010" / Exhaust .014" / HOT. When you adjust the tappets think of the upper part as a bolt that's screwing into the bottom section (because that's basically what it is). Screw the upper part into the lower part to increase the clearance, and screw it out to reduce the clearance. Merle
  44. 1 point
    1952B3b23

    1934 1 1/2 ton dually 65mph?

    That's a really nice truck and bike! Just think if you're top speed is only 45 mph that means more people will be able to see your awesome truck cruise by. :D -Chris
  45. 1 point
    Sharps40

    1937 Dodge, Ol Bessy Is Coming Home!

    Dad is here. A visit. News. The Dodge is mine again. It was never not mine, since I was 16. I drove it daily till I was 30 when it was wrecked. I spent all my money on a lawyer chasing a drunk with nothing and nothing was left to fix it. I sold it. 23 years ago. The day I sold it. 23 years ago. Dad bought it back. He and Jim kept it a secret. Working on it occasionally as time and manning and money permitted. Stored away in the hot rod shop. Waiting for 23 years. Till I wanted it back. I almost bought one in Chicago last month. It was sold the day I arrived to look at it. The title, in my name, never transferred has sat in secret in Dads lock box waiting. For 35 years it has been my car. Before that, since 1957, Dad was the second owner of the Ol Dodge. Its coming home.
  46. 1 point
    Plymouthy Adams

    Ok....so is it just me?

    they are a different car for sure...handling should not have been that bad though...??? plenty of suspension beefing could have been done..lots of folks like that speed/acceleration and give little regard to handling stopping thus the dollars go where their main interest lies...v-room v-room ..I have never cared for the power brake booster setup on these cars either...and right now have my caliper ready to back on the car...replaced the 48 year old pistons with new..last thing done to the brakes was 20+ years ago by me..and later about 10 years ago I put new rubber front flex lines on..almost a zero maintenance car with the Chrysler electronic ignition I upgrade to..with the size foot you say you have..am surprised you have never hit the accelerator when braking..but again..you sound as though the brakes was not used often...lol A Scot in a Tiger..oh the pain at the gas pumps for him....lol
  47. 1 point
    Murfman: Using 54 headlight rims is cool. I've never seen an all chromed cross piece in this grille. THAT IS SPECTACULAR, it makes the car look wider. Looks like you've lowered it some. How and how much? Jeff, so what's so wrong about ADD, Attention! Dodge Disorder! I just double my Zoloft dosage and all's well and at times being hard of hearing is very convenient, and if you add short term memory loss, well then it's hard to keep enemies and every day is a new car!
  48. 1 point
    I REALLY like the 53-54 'Burbans, especially the 53s This is my daughters, she turns 13 in 6 weeks so I have a few years to get it finished...
  49. 1 point
    Jason Hyde

    IMG_0548

    Let the project begin
  50. 1 point
    Reg Evans

    Show your tools.

    This lift would have to be my favorite tool.
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