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keithb7

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keithb7 last won the day on September 18

keithb7 had the most liked content!

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About keithb7

  • Rank
    Zen Master, I breathe vintage mopar!

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Western Canada
  • Interests
    Vintage cars, guitars and amps.
  • My Project Cars
    1938 Plymouth P6 Deluxe Sedan. 1953 Chrysler Windsor Deluxe C60-2.

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Hobby Mechanic
  • Occupation
    Mining

Converted

  • Location
    Western Canada
  • Interests
    Vintage Cars

Recent Profile Visitors

3,374 profile views
  1. Looks like a viable long term fix for many of us suffering the same! Lol.
  2. Sounds like it'll be more like a road show.
  3. I agree with @desoto1939. If your steering components are all in good condition, and the bias ply tires wander...This is how it was meant to be back in the day. It was all they had. My 1938 got a brand new set of bias Coker tires this spring. It feels and drives like a stock, 1938 car. Sometimes I get surprised when the car decides to take its own path when you least expect it. The bias tires, the firm side walls, get up on the center hump of the pavement on a well traveled, worn road. Hang on and be ready! I have no fear or problem with it. Slowing down and enjoying life in an old car is a
  4. I'm on the same page here. A 1938 Sedan, mostly stock. Driver, that looks like to just came off the farm. Currently has a 1954 228 CI 25" long Canadian engine in it. It runs just fine. However I could use a little more torque. The steep hills here with the 4.11 in 3rd gear, 1:1, the engine manages, but barely. Ain't nothin left up a steep hill. With no run-up to gain momentum, the throttle mashed I get 30 -35 mph. And fuel burn on that long hill? Oh boy yes, considerable, as the throttle is wide open and the engine is burdened down pretty good. I have my sights set on a 1949 251 C
  5. The water flow control valve to the cab heater core opens and closes automatically I believe. The brass tube goes inside the heater duct. As it gets hot, it closes off the water valve. When its cool it opens the water valve more.. I believe its a temperature regulator. Without the valve you have full flow, hot water, coming in all the time. It makes a lot of heat in the cab! Only way to control the heat temperature with no regulated valve, is by turning off the blower fan. Off and on as needed. Or opening The fresh air cowl vent to let cool air in. Not ideal. My original regulator v
  6. Summer is about wrapped up. I have 3 weeks left on my car’s insurance. Then its all over but the ensuing pouting. I was running errands today in my ‘38. The miles keep adding up and the car seems to keep getting better. Its reliability seems to have reached the mark that is comfortable in my mind. Its been trouble free for quite a while. The initial bugs were all worked out and its been fantastic. I often find myself thinking, am I ever going to desire a modern cruiser car? At this point I’m certainly doubtful. Rock solid reliable. Fun to drive. Easy to fix. Cheap to own this old dr
  7. The pic above shows how my 6V-12V converter hooked up. The left 2 wires are for the 6V going into the converter. On this one, red is positive, so wire it to a metal ground on your chassis. Second from left, black wire will be connected to your 6V power source from your car. Whatever you choose it to be. Something switched with the ignition would be my suggestion. Fuel level gauge is, for example. Could splice into that power. I did, and it works great. The right two wires, yellow and black, just temporarily clip them to the connection of your new USB charger socket. If it powers up, great!
  8. I have two leakers over here....Seems to be par for the course with these rear seals. With tranny out, it may still be challenging to remove upper seal retainer bolts. They are in between the flywheel and block. Although I have not done so, I was thinking maybe a person could unbolt the flywheel. It won't be able to exit out of the bell housing unless housing is removed. Somehow push the flywheel aside up in there. Access the seal, change it and reinstall everything. Could it be done this way? Anyone able to confirm? I suppose other option is to remove the engine, put it on a stand
  9. So you are running points now again? Pentronix is out? Glad to hear its running again. Points worked very well for many decades. As long as an owner is ok doing basic maintenance. Breaker-less ignitions were supposed to be easy and trouble free! Lol. Hmmmm.
  10. I suspect the only engine tougher than a Mopar slant 6 is it's predecessor.. The Mopar L6 Flathead. Darn those flatheads engines are tough. Performance? Not a high priority compared to later engines. Fuel economy? Don't make me laugh..It could be good, but if you live in the hills of Tuscany its similar to a 400 bog block V8. True grit? There may not be a better engine that will continue to run and propel a car after decades of neglect and abuse. The Mopar L6. What a tank. Will it run on almost any combustable fuel? Likely. These old engines, like Zombies, come back to life daily to get th
  11. I decided to invest in a cylinder bore gauge. I have 4 Mopar flathead engines to deal with at some point. It makes sense to me, to know the wear condition of the blocks. Or at least have fun learning how to blue-print a block. For home hacks, do we need a proper bore gauge? That’s certainly questionable. A Starret or Mitutoyo brand would have been nice. A new Fowler (currently made in China) will suit my needs fine. Measures down to .0005” My new tool arrived today. A spare 1949 Canadian 218 block lays-in-waiting out behind the shed. This evening I spent a little time l
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