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keithb7 last won the day on June 10

keithb7 had the most liked content!


About keithb7

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Western Canada
  • Interests
    Vintage cars, guitars and amps.
  • My Project Cars
    1938 Plymouth P6 Deluxe Sedan. 1953 Chrysler Windsor Deluxe C60-2.

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Hobby Mechanic
  • Occupation


  • Location
    Western Canada
  • Interests
    Vintage Cars

Recent Profile Visitors

3,133 profile views
  1. Thanks guys...You’re too kind. Ya’ll are very helpful to me too. I’m just having fun paying it forward to the next generation. Via You Tube.
  2. I own the exact Blue Motors manual. Its a good reference for studying and comparing various models and years of Mopars too.
  3. To see an example of a parts book click here: http://www.1948plymouth.info/1948p15/DocumentWeb/default.php Enter "password" to get access. Cruise around, see what you get from a decent parts book.
  4. I have been growing my collection of manuals to support my 2 cars. What have I learned? A ton of info is shared across a wide range of years. These old Mopars are sorta like decades of in-bred relatives. All very closely related. Initially I bought the original shop manual for my cars. Good stuff. Then I bought a Motors Manual each of my cars. More great info! Extra stuff that may have been overlooked in the original shop manual. The original shop manual, I believe was written for dealer mechanics. They assume you should have a good grasp of mechanical work. The Motors Manual seems is a little more stripped down for home grease monkey type folks? A friend found a 1949 original DPCD manual. He gave it to me. I figured I would have no need for it as I have no 1949 cars. I was surprised to see lots of good info I totally could use! Different and in some ways better illustrations from other my other manuals. The 1949 turned out to be a great resource that I often reference. I also located a 1953 and 1938 original parts manuals for my cars. Good for finding NOS parts on E-Bay. The illustrations are handy too. When I decided to replace the Synchro in my 1938 tranny, I looked up the original 1938 part number. Then searched it on E-bay. $80 shipped! Brand new. That one purchase made that parts manual well worth the price. The synchro was not listed by what cars it fit. Just the old original part number. Without it I would have never found it. A perfect OEM brand new part from my 1938! So, shop manual, or service manual, or parts manual?...The answer is yes. All provide info you can and will use if you want to take care of your car yourself.
  5. The old switch was done. Even when removed it was making continuity. Thanks for the tips though. I will be sure to double check everything else. Brakes do release properly. All new hoses. MC rebuilt. Jacked, up the wheels turn nicely.
  6. Note to future self: Single wire in-series light circuits, all circuits after the switch go to ground. Its when they don’t go to ground is when there’s a problem! If said circuits go to ground before the switch, there’s a problem! Turned out to be a failing brake light switch. All my harness wiring seems to be fine. Hydraulic actuated brake switch was making contact at switch when the brakes were released. Brakes lights are wired directly to the battery circuit. Battery was draining. Replaced switch all seems good. I think! I may be back to ask for help...
  7. I experienced a couple of weird symptoms recently in my ‘38 Plymouth. Twice I noticed the tail lights on, when the car parked and off. Hmm. I know this can be attributed to stuck-on brakes, but no that wasn’t it. Brakes were just overhauled. Then I noticed a dead battery after a few days parked. Hmm. I disconnected negative cable and charged it up. Next day reinstalled cable. Car started fine. Raining so no test drive. I left the battery on a .75 amp trickle charger over night. Left both battery cables installed. Next morning no go-juice. The battery measures at 2V. Hmm. Time to dig in with the multi-meter and see whats going on. I ground a lead to a spark plug metal nut at the base. (great solid ground by the way). I began poking around for continuity to ground. Right off the starter lug! Ground. What the heck? I get poking around under the dash and find grounded circuits for my fog lamps, brake lamps, running lamps. What the heck? I must be doing something wrong. I break things down in my head and remove any wires at the starter lug. Hmm. Ok just the one 6-or so gauge wire is grounding. It goes up into the dash. Right to the ammeter. The lug on the ammeter is grounding. Hmm. There are multiple wires pulled off that one ammeter lug. So each one of those circuits are now being grounded. I remove all connections at ammeter and start checking each one. Now I’m down to only 1 wire that is grounding. Hmm. Where does it go? I’m thinking about the brake lights coming on a few weeks ago. Likely to the brake lights I figure. Sure enough. Indeed it does go to the brake lights. I check continuity at the brake switch, affirmative. Remove wire after switch that goes to the brake lamps. Continuity test wire from ammeter to brake switch connection, all good. No grounding. Remove wire at brake switch that goes to brake lights. Bingo! Its grounding. This is fun. Making progress. Yet now its time to get under the car. Maybe even drop the fuel tank to see what I’ve done. I built the rear harness from scratch. I screwed something up. Time to don the coveralls and get under there. I’ll report back my findings. I think I'm getting close. I am grateful how simple these old cars are. I was amused and reminded how tricky electrons and wiring can be. 1 simple wire was pulling down everything else that it touched. Where it gathered at the shared lug on the rear of the ammeter. A few years ago I would have been on a wild goose chase after I found several different circuits grounding. Sometimes aging is not so bad. I've learned to slow down and think. Lol.
  8. Great to hear. Congrats on getting it home. Now you can work on it at your convenience.
  9. Any luck getting it running Worden?
  10. Some fuel pumps today are priced near the price of a rebuild kit. Folks may choose to replace versus rebuilding these pumps. I decided to mix up some 2-part JB Weld and put liberal coatings (3 light layers over 3 days) over both ends of the fulcrum pin ends. It’s not coming out any time soon.
  11. For a hint. Put a finger over the intake hole. Pump it a couple times. You’ll feel a vacuum. You could attach a piece of rubber fuel line to the intake side as well. Dip it in some gas. Pump it a few times. Should pump gas.
  12. I bought one recently, but darned if I can remember the size. This help?
  13. When you hold open the throttle you are sucking fuel through a main jet in the carb. Fuel is introduced up in the main carb venturi when the throttle valve is held open. At idle with the throttle valve closed, you are sucking fuel through the idle circuit jet. At idle, fuel is introduced down low in the carb. Near the base I believe. The idle mixture screw allows for air/fuel mixture adjustment here. Your latest problem of no idle; could your carb need a good cleaning? Clearing up the idle circuit? Did you by chance play with the A/F mixture screw recently? If you had a friend work the throttle to keep the engine running, then your helper let off the throttle. Standing by & ready, what if you quickly, manually sprayed gas in the carb venturi at idle. Would the engine then run? Only while you manually introduced fuel at idle?
  14. Consider that the pump you removed was likely cast and made in North America. The quality was good. Especially compared to the off-shore cheap pumps you may be pricing out today. You may be better off rebuilding your USA pump with the kit, compared to buying a new off-shore pump this is priced lower than the rebuild kit.
  15. A 6V electric pump is a pretty easy, worthwhile project. A power wire fused from key switch works. Wire it to the negative wire of the 6V pump. Put the positive wire of the pump to ground. That's it. I wired mine up to a toggle switch on the dash. I use the stock type mechanical pump mainly. I use electric for pre-start priming, vapor lock, or if needed on long full-throttle hill climbs. The electric assists the mechanical pump in my scenario. The pump will have an inlet and outlet side. Plumb it up accordingly. Suggest having a filter before the electric pump. Change it out every year or two to keep the pump with a good free supply of fuel from the tank. Best practice seems to be to mount it near the fuel tank. You can choose to mount it before the mechanical pump, or after. Both positions work in my experience. Currently my 6V pump is after the mechanical pump. It pulls fuel through no problem.
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