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keithb7

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keithb7 last won the day on January 15

keithb7 had the most liked content!

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Western Canada
  • Interests
    Vintage Mopars
  • My Project Cars
    1938 Chrysler Royal C18 Coupe

    1938 Plymouth P6 Deluxe Sedan

    1953 Chrysler Windsor Deluxe C60-2.

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  • Biography
    Hobby Mechanic
  • Occupation
    Mining

Converted

  • Location
    Western Canada
  • Interests
    Vintage Cars

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  1. I had to look it up. Thanks for your service @knuckleharley Military Assistance Command, Vietnam – Studies and Observations Group (MACV-SOG) was a highly classified, multi-service United States special operations unit which conducted covert unconventional warfare operations prior to and during the Vietnam War. Established on 24 January 1964, it conducted strategic reconnaissance missions in the Republic of Vietnam (South Vietnam), the Democratic Republic of Vietnam (North Vietnam), Laos, and Cambodia; took enemy prisoners, rescued downed pilots, conducted rescue operations to retrieve prisoners of war throughout Southeast Asia, and conducted clandestine agent team activities and psychological operations. The unit participated in most of the significant campaigns of the Vietnam War, including the Gulf of Tonkin incident which precipitated increased American involvement, Operation Steel Tiger, Operation Tiger Hound, the Tet Offensive, Operation Commando Hunt, the Cambodian Campaign, Operation Lam Son 719, and the Easter Offensive. The unit was downsized and renamed Strategic Technical Directorate Assistance Team 158 on 1 May 1972, to support the transfer of its work to the Strategic Technical Directorate of the Army of the Republic of Vietnam – part of the Vietnamization effort.
  2. Steve if you’d like one of mine send me a personal message. Thanks.
  3. I got very lucky with a brand new NOS Mopar built camshaft. Same part number stamped into it as the original 1953 cam that I removed from my engine. CDPD logo on it. A seller had it listed on Ebay as a "cam shaft". So I guess maybe few were seeing it when they did a search? I scooped it up. A few deals are out there! Yet then I had to spend a small fortune on a full set of new tappets. Might as well go for broke... No help here for you. Just like to share a success story.
  4. Assume this is 3 3/8 bore? Egge had nothing for me when I enquired. Nor Vintage Power Wagons. After several other sources said no, I exercised the option to bore it over to 3 7/16". Standard size. The 228 was now a very readily mass produced 237.
  5. Allow me to have fun with the valvetrain for a moment. The cam lobes being scored up. Here’s my theory. The rear most valves get the the least cooled water from the water pump. Furthest back, way at the end of the water distribution tube. By the time the water gets there, its pretty hot again. High heat causes metal to expand. Let’s assume someone was not doing good car maintenance at some point in the past. Not up on their tappet clearances. As valves recess, tappet clearances shrink. Add extra heat here due to limited water cooling. Now we have quite tight valve-to-tappet clearances at the very rear of the engine. The Engine starts to develop a miss. Driver is on a hiway trip a long ways from home. He pushes through to get home. Cam is turning at 1/2 engine rpm speed. So lets assume 1500 times per minute for the 5 hour drive back home. Tappet cannot float nicely on the cam. Its being forced down to ride on the cam lobe due to pressure from the valve return spring. No tappet clearance remember. Cam continues to turn as the car is forced along the hiway home. The oil is also quite aged because the owner is lazy with his maintenance. The oil has lost most of its lubricity by now. Should have been changed quite a while ago. The oil has lots of soot in it too because burnt exhaust gasses are entering the engine crankcase at an exhaust valve that is no longer seating. Soot is more abrasive than sand. Bad stuff to allow to build up in your crankcase. The now zero clearance area between the tappet and cam lobe, has soot in the oil, grinding away as driver hurries on his way home. Like sand rubbing between your finger and thumb. Very abrasive. The tappet stops spinning on the cam lobe. It gets slightly skewed in its bore due to no tappet to valve clearance. The valve too gets slightly skewed in its guide. The exponential wear rate and destruction of the engine has begun. Its only a matter of time. Eventually the car owner parks his old Mopar in a field due to poor running engine. 25 years later it’s rescued. A new owner tears it down and posts his findings on P15-D24. “Look at this odd cam wear. Lots of sludge in the crankcase.” (Scarcasm) It Could happen! Lol. The moral of this story is? Change your oil and set your valve clearance.
  6. Has the root of the problem been identified yet? I'd erase all preconceived ideas. Even if it ran 3 months ago. Start with a new set of eyes. If your A/F adjustment screw has no effect, you may well have an air leak in the carb base. If you had a spray/drip bottle with some gasoline in it, air filter off carb, after engine starts, if you manually tickle the fuel in the top the carb yourself, does the engine keep running? I'm not there to see or know what has been done so far. If it showed up in my garage I'd begin by doing a compression test. It will quickly reveal any stuck valves. Set the dwell. While in the distributor inspect all wires in there. Clean the distributor cap & spark plugs. Monitor vacuum gauge while running. Check ground wire from the coil to points. Also from key switch to coil. Pull the arb and separate the base sections. Inspect gaskets. Clean carb. Re-install new gaskets and assemble all. Using the said vacuum gauge, then I'l check fuel pump pressure. I like showing this invisible problem below. The A/F mixture screw indeed had no effect on my car. Car would stumble off idle and surge a little when driving right off fully closed throttle. Then I found this.
  7. No LH or RH markings. Here are both L&R hinges beside each other.
  8. I’ve got a decent spare pair here. Unsure which is left or right tho. Some casting numbers are on the back. Maybe we can ID?
  9. You came back Bryan, explaining your feelings. That’s a good thing. Some folks out there in this world refuse to give in. They’ll fight and fight. Tappity tap tap tap on the keyboard. Often known as the “keyboard warrior”. I try to sure and check all emotions at the door when I come in here. Or anywhere else on the internet. I can moan and groan to my wife but it doesn’t go past her. Way too many ways to get upset on the internet. For nothing. It does no good. Chin up. Spring is coming. You got a great project on the go. You’ll feel like a million when it flashes up the first time.
  10. If a 37 is like a 38 I may have one. Got a pic?
  11. Not sure if this helps. These results here are block drain pet-cocks. https://www.google.com/search?q=radiator+drain+petcock+brass+pipe+thread&oq=radiator+drain+petcock+brass+pipe+thread&aqs=chrome..69i57j33i160l2.19346j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
  12. It’s hitting me hard to read these posts @knuckleharley . Seeing your unfinished work. Hearing about your prognosis. Its challenging to accept. Its hard to know what to say. I want to say again I have enjoyed your posts and our interactions. Ive been thinking about you. Please keep posting if you feel like it. We’ve got your back. I’m taking a minute to pray for you right now Mopar brother.
  13. I know my ‘38 Plymouth does not look like that. Looks to me like that one on FB is a ‘39. Could be a good project for someone. It looks like it might be a sedan. For reference here’s the front of a ‘38. Mine. Compared to the FB ad.
  14. Different....Cheap transportation I guess? I see that chain drive and think back to 1900. It was't long and they knew it had to go.
  15. I fired the engine up briefly a couple of times to ensure if would indeed run, before I had the entire cooling system re-connected. That task will take a while yet. The front nose cone is to go back on, support bracketing. Old rusty damaged hardware is to be replaced. The rad and hoses hoses etc. A fair bit of work. I had lubed up the engine internals quite a bit upon reassembly. I had good full oil pressure before firing it up. It was about -7 C in the garage when I flashed it up. I think it'll be ok. It has not fired up since. I am progressing ahead now with the rest of the goodies now that we know it runs. I'll follow a break-in procedure once the roads here are free of snow, salt and ice. Likely first half of March.
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