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keithb7

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keithb7 last won the day on March 30

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About keithb7

  • Rank
    Zen Master, I breathe vintage mopar!

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Western Canada
  • Interests
    Vintage cars, guitars and amps.
  • My Project Cars
    1938 Plymouth P6 Deluxe Sedan. 1953 Chrysler Windsor Deluxe C60-2.

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  • Biography
    Hobby Mechanic
  • Occupation
    Mining

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  • Location
    Western Canada
  • Interests
    Vintage Cars

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  1. I have a 38 Plymouth car. It originally had a 23" engine. The previous owner had a 1954 25" long 228 ci engine installed. The rad was moved ahead a couple inches. A slightly smaller sized rad was used, as the nose tapers smaller as you move forward. That engine you bought is likely just like all the earlier L6 mopar engines before it. My understanding is your bell housing and tranny will bolt up to it. I am not well versed in the topic but see the results in my car. Was the original '39 engine a 201ci? If so, the '39 carb may be a little undersized for the '60 engine. The '60 carb would probably have an auto choke and high idle system compared to the 39 carb. It had a manual choke and high idle throttle cable. My point being the original throttle linkage may be easier to use with the '39 carb. However you may get better performance from the '60 carb on the '60 engine. Depending on the brand of each carb, some body and linkage parts may be inter-changeable between the two. If the 60 engine you bought is a good runner, and you aren't trying to win a concours show with the truck, I'd move ahead to install it. The '60 engine will have more HP and torque too.
  2. I feel like I have something usable here this evening. Decent testing time tonight and it all seems good.
  3. On Rock Auto web site I see the following 6 cyl engine options for a 1960 Dodge D100 truck: 1960 CUSTOM D100 PICKUP 2.8L 170cid L6 3.7L 225cid L6 3.8L 230cid L6 23 " length head. Is that your measured head length? This also lines up with the July 1959 cast date on the block. Also the TP23 number on the block SN plate. Next step might be to pull the hex head plug at the top of #6 cylinder, centre. Get a small diameter wood dowel. Measure stroke. If engine can be barred over.
  4. Boy we’re having fun here. That’s my fuel needle valve at the bowl inlet. Feels like a skim of grey silicone. Not sure where it came from. Fuel filter has been off while I finalize fuel line layout. Its going back on now.
  5. Maybe this will help? https://www.t137.com/registry/help/otherengines/otherengines.php I did find this: TP23 230ci 23 Inches Dodge Truck D100, D200, D300, W100, W200, P300, P400, WM300 1960
  6. My 6V coil is new. Replaced last fall with maybe an hour idle/drive time on it so far. If it was the coil, the engine would not run briefly when I poured raw fuel into the carb. It does indeed run when I do this. However the pump cannot move fuel and the engine stalls within few seconds of run time. Burning the raw fuel I dumped in.
  7. @Pete I have not installed mine yet. I am distracted with fuel system problems in my '38 Ply. I will get around to hooking it up eventually and can report my findings once completed. It's going in my '53 Chrysler which also has a single speaker built into the dash. I am considering my speaker options. 1 or 2. Not settled on yet.
  8. Engine flashed up instantly, running like a champ this morning. After everything had a good opportunity to cool down I assume. I do also have a heat shield/spacer plate between the carb base and the manifolds. As illustrated a few posts above in my carb pic. Will try again this afternoon, afterwork, heat the car up good with the heat shield on, and see what happens.
  9. There does seem to be something off with the software running this site. I too have seen my pics get loaded sideways. It is odd. Only seems to happen when I load them from my iphone. It only seems to happen randomly. Not every time.
  10. The tiny button in the centre is spring loaded. I’m unsure. Is this cap vented? Pouring raw fuel in the carb it’ll run for a few seconds then die. Hoping this would prime the fuel pump. No go yet. About 4-5 times doing this. No prime yet. Pump glass bowl is full to the top. Did the same last night, then flashed up like a dream this afternoon. As described above.
  11. Fighting vapor lock over the past two evenings. I have not ventured too far from home. I’ve been very lucky and both nights when it occurred, I was slightly uphill. I was able to coast back into my driveway. From a fair distance mind you. Very lucky... I located a 90 deg fitting today. I put it at the pump input side. I then built a new solid line getting the intake line further away from the block. I idled the engine for about 45 mins today. Tweaking. Tuning. Testing with a laser thermometer. I decided to try my luck driving around the block again. 10 mins later, I’m dead. Coasting home again. I took a reading of 135F on the top of the fuel pump, soon after it died. 90 mins later It still won’t pull fuel. I’ve since removed the heat shield over the pump from my ‘53!Chrysler and installed it on my ‘38. Tomorrow evening we’ll repeat the exercise with the heat shield. See what happens. Hopefully I will get a 3rd chance to coast home. Last night it cooled down and purred after a few hours of cool down. Still waiting here now. I’m sure the 20% ethanol is a leading factor here. I have a 6V pump ready to install. I’m stubborn and hoped I could get the stock system working properly. Still hoping to. By Saturday the 6V pump will be in, if we fail to improve.
  12. I pulled the main fuel inlet fitting at the bowl today. To have a further good look. I tossed this problem around in my head while I layed in bed last night. Had to be something in the inlet valve I figured. I slid out the inlet fuel valve. Its the newer flat silicone type. As opposed to the older needle type design. I found a small black piece of some foreign material in there. Maybe came up from the fuel line after the pump? Maybe it was something in my pump that a never saw when I rebuilt it? So small, yet obstructing the valve from closing. Just enough it seems. Then fuel continued to pour in at 3.7 psi. Flooding everything. The screen in the pump will likely prevent any future foreign crap from getting past it, up to the carb. I'll be running a fuel filter as well. A good reminder, something so small can really screw with your fuel system. Many a good man has scratched his head over similar fuel related issues I’m sure. Pics just for good measure:
  13. Todd, I suspect there is not a lot of people here that are great resources for 1928 DB cars. I suggest you try the following to spread your questions out to a wider audience: 1. Join Facebook and join the Dodge Brothers group. There are 2 groups. One is the official DB Club group, the other is a group of DB cars owners. Post your wanted items there. If you are anti-FB, I get it. But 30 billion people seem to have latched on to it and they are all there. You are missing out on very good resources for this old car. 2. Sign Up at the AACA forum. Go to the Chrysler products section. Then, the Dodge Brothers group. Post your inquiries there too. All the same questions you posted here. Here is a link to the site: https://forums.aaca.org/forum/38-dodge-dodge-brothers/ That radiator cap is a visual thermometer for the driver. I believe it is aftermarket. You can buy brand new ones. Seek out "Boyce Motormeter". See attached pic. If you look under the dash, below the speedometer you'll see a dial. Reset-able trip meter. Perhaps yours is broken. See pic attached. Regarding the wiring harness, try calling a few places. Google search will turn up some results. Not cheap! You can do a ton yourself and save $$$ . Unless your are going for bone stock, concourse restoration. See here: https://www.ynzyesterdaysparts.com/home/wire-harness-catalogs/1917-1974-antique-classic-foreign-domestic-wire-harnesses/dodge-passenger-car-wiring-harnesses/ Otherwise if you are inclined, it's not hard to make the electrical harness and connections yourself. The electrical system on that 28 is very simple. Did you get the files I share with you all related to the 1928 DB? There may be some suggestions in there about obtaining replacement wiring harnesses.
  14. Congrats, thanks for the update. Welcome to the forum. Wow, what a fist post, and the statement above. You have great intentions, seeing this project through. This car is a good one to preserve considering how rare it is. We'd love to see some pics if possible. If you get a chance, next time you check in on your car, snap whatever photos you can. Even if it's tore down. Many of us here would enjoy seeing any pics.
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