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keithb7

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keithb7 last won the day on January 4

keithb7 had the most liked content!

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About keithb7

  • Rank
    Zen Master, I breathe vintage mopar!

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Western Canada
  • Interests
    Vintage cars, guitars and amps.
  • My Project Cars
    1938 Plymouth P6 Deluxe Sedan. 1953 Chrysler Windsor Deluxe C60-2.

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Hobby Mechanic
  • Occupation
    Mining

Converted

  • Location
    Western Canada
  • Interests
    Vintage Cars

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3,918 profile views
  1. Cool. Nice work. Nice shop too. I like it!
  2. I suppose our perspective around how to rebuild an engine or not, is individual. Where we’ve been. Our experience. Cleanliness is a big factor that seems overlooked here. When investing considerable money in new parts, it seems wasteful to not try and make the rebuilt engine last. There were lots of steps in the video that appear to have been a little unorthodox. A person new to engine rebuilding may not understand this. Someone learning, watching this video may think this is how it’s done. The shop who you’re paying to rebuild your engine should be more familiar with “best practices
  3. "Couple of thousand" mentioned for an engine rebuild is not reality today. $2K might get you all the parts needed. Then there's the machining and labor costs. I figure I'll' be into my engine rebuild $4K. I'll be doing all the labor.
  4. At the 11:16 mark is he hammering con rod bolt threads over the crank bearing surface? Water pump gasket is what? $3? Making .015 feeler gauge from a pop can? lol. Did he measure all piston ring gaps in the one cylinder, #6? What if it's worn more or less than other cylinders? 😀
  5. Welcome! You found the right spot. The flatheads run pretty smooth. Getting them dialed in and tuned properly is a learned skill set. I like to set a base line and go from there, digging in further to find the cause. Here’s what I’d do to get that baseline. If you don’t know the condition of the listed items, I replace them. But that’s just me. compression test wet and dry fuel pressure test Intake vacuum test set idle A/F mixture with assistance of vacuum gauge New plugs New Points & set with assistance of a dwell meter New Cond
  6. I’ll guess...Semi auto Vacuum operated M4? 1941–1942 M4 Vacamatic — 4-speed (2-range manual control with automatic 2-speed shift vacuum operated) with clutch and fluid coupling (Fluid Drive); also known as Simplimatic, Powermatic
  7. I have limited experience with getting the steering wheel off. My pulled easily with this contraption seen in the image. I'd be weary about tightening the steering shaft outer tube in a vice. Its hollow and not overly thick.
  8. This is from my Canadian Mopar 1949 Service Manual. A little warning not to confuse this 25” long 218 engine, with the 23.5” long American 218 engine. Very different. This 3 ⅜” bore Canadian engine is difficult to find rings & pistons for. I have the same engine with a 4 ¼” stroke. It a 228 ci. I am boring it over now to the more popular 3 7/16” bore engine. Effectively making it the 236.6 ci Desoto engine shown here in these engine stats.
  9. I bought my part here: https://cgfordparts.com/ufolder/selecttitle.php?c=1&s=7&g=64
  10. My Ford car steering Gearbox parts arrived. Looks like a perfect fit. I went with C&G Early Ford Parts based in Escondido Calif. Shipped Monday. At my door step in Canada 2 days later. I was pleasantly surprised. Both the Fords and my ‘38 Ply have Gemmer boxes. Not exactly the same housings and fit, however internal parts, gaskets etc appear identical. Laying them out side by side now. Looks good! I used the 6th Edition Motors Manual, and my Hollander Interchange books to do this detective work. Rolled the dice a bit too.
  11. keithb7

    Fuel

    This tool is cheap. It is highly effective. I recommend. You can: Test fuel pump pressure. Test intake vacuum pressure. Open up pandora‘s box for only $15. Every flathead Mopar owner should own one. https://www.opentip.com/search.php?cPath=32168&ats=gs&products_id=3616828&gclid=Cj0KCQiArvX_BRCyARIsAKsnTxMUhaItI09H24vwE7WA1v8XJwUehBAbzL6hDCrWz8ETWsxXlaQ7hqQaAt7uEALw_wcB
  12. I have done adjustments hot and cold. Cold works well too. You can add .002" to the spec and set 'em cold. I've had success both ways. Remove all plugs. Start at #1 TDC. Wiggle both tappets up and down. Both will move as both valves are fully closed at TDC only. The wiggle is your proof both valves are closed as there should be the clearance. Unless of course one is set too tight. Set #1 valves, both. Look at 1 fan blade and rotate it 120 degrees. Got to valves for #5. Repeat process above. Then carry on. The order is 1 5 3 6 2 4. When all 6 are done you will have rotated th
  13. Perfect. Every exhaust valve gets it’s own exhaust manifold leg. There are 6 exhaust manifold legs. 2 intake valves are shared between each intake manifold leg. There are only 3 intake manifold legs. Someone way smarter than me engineered that set up brilliantly! Are you tooling-up for a valve set?
  14. The motor is pooched. It is resists any turning by hand. I got a new motor today with a capacitor. Replacing everything now. Yesterday I became a welder. Today I am a HVAC guy. Lol. “Dabbles in everything. Good at nothing.” All back together working again now. I can tell someone was in there a few years ago and changed 1 of the motors. (There are two) We’ve owned the house for 3 years. The Recent failed motor, I’d wager was original. Made in USA. The House is about 25 years old. The motor changed by previous owner was made in Mexico. The exact same brand-name motor
  15. “Better you than me”, rings a bell. Lol. 😉
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