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John-T-53 last won the day on December 6 2019

John-T-53 had the most liked content!

About John-T-53

  • Rank
    Hung Chow
  • Birthday 02/01/1978

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Belmont, CA 94002
  • My Project Cars
    1953 Dodge B4B, 1955 Chevy Bel Air, 1973 Chrysler NYB


  • Location
    San Mateo, CA
  • Interests
    car restoration, surfing, skiing, hiking, camping, wood working, traveling, photography

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  • Occupation

Recent Profile Visitors

1,920 profile views
  1. I need my truck to help move! Thanks tho...come down anyway! Looking at the calendar at the end of March, moving and the BBQ might have some overlap....this is gonna get tricky.
  2. San Luis Obispo. Getting kicked out of the house in Belmont, owner is moving in. There's nowhere to go - all to expensive and substandard up here. I'm done with the bay area. Over it!
  3. I'm moving this spring but will still make it, although the drive will now be close to 250 miles! For my a$$'s sake, I might drive the big New Yorker, we'll see.... JT
  4. Wow just wow. Is there any oil in the sump? It would be interesting to pull the tappet covers and see what it looks like on the inside.
  5. Looks promising... Otherwise, for beverage containers, I would look at canned sake. The cans are small and sometimes made from steel too. There's a restaurant out here that serves what might be the perfect can... #4 below.
  6. I think photobucket went off the rails long ago, didn't it?
  7. Where did you get the reamer from? Do they still make 'em new? Years ago, the guy that sized my bushings used just a Sunnen hone. Came out great, .001"
  8. I agree that extra clamping is not needed and that is not the reason that I used them on mine. Here are four pros and cons that I see with studs. For me, the pros outdid the cons. Pros: 1. Original bolts are often corroded and won't seal properly into the water jacket. Original style bolts might be hard to come by. 2. Re-torquing. With studs, the thread sealant down in the block is not disturbed in the process. 3. The fine thread nuts with machined washers provide a more consistent and accurate torque reading, which translates into more even clamping pressure across the deck. When my engine had bolts, I blew out the head gasket a couple times. Since studs, no blow-outs. 4. Studs look cool and generate banter. Cons: 1. Increased initial cost and labor. 2. difficulty installing and removing the head when in the vehicle. 3. If not painted, the stud tips, nuts, and washers eventually rust. Bolts can be painted with the block, but the paint gets disturbed when re-torqued. 4. Difficult removal if the thread sealant leaks (only on Ferds, though!) EDIT: Photos below.
  9. At the time that I dealt with ARP, there were no kits sold for the flathead Mopar engine. I called their hotline and we figured out what I needed based on the dimensions of the stock head bolts. This is the same situation for any bolt, stud that you need that's not listed in a lit. ARP also supplied me with cam gear bolts. I might still have the exact information for the studs , let me know if it would help and I'll look.
  10. I found the receipt.... NAPA Balkamp # 615-1605
  11. You have to call Tom to order the correct bases. A lot of his stuff isn't on the website. That said, he's been downsizing the business in recent years, so no telling what's in store
  12. Having to rebuild my wheel cylinders after 7 years of service, I completely forgot that I had stepped cylinders up front. Looking through my photos I came across these below which jogged my memory. The cylinders are marked L and R at the top. Interestingly though, the FSM lists only a straight bore 1-3/8" cylinder for the B, C, DU, EU, F, G, H, J, K models. The PW models are listed with 1-1/4" front shoe and 1-3/8" rear shoe. The stock brakes have always worked excellent, I'm sticking with the step bore! EDIT: Rebuild kit is NAPA part # 6.
  13. Both Don and Norm are up there now, among others....
  14. Thanks! That is the manifold and linkage setup by George Asche.
  15. Photos of mine. It's hard to see here but the flanges are ground flat where they meet.
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