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John-T-53 last won the day on March 8

John-T-53 had the most liked content!

About John-T-53

  • Rank
    Hung Chow
  • Birthday 02/01/1978

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Belmont, CA 94002
  • My Project Cars
    1953 Dodge B4B, 1955 Chevy Bel Air, 1973 Chrysler NYB


  • Location
    San Mateo, CA
  • Interests
    car restoration, surfing, skiing, hiking, camping, wood working, traveling, photography

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  1. I just had all 4 wheel cylinders in my 'shiverlay' sleeved by Karp's Power Brake in So-Cal..... http://www.karpspb.com/brake-sleeving.html They supplied the rebuild kits too. Took about $300 and 4 months....they're busy.
  2. Nice...Can't beat the excitement created by freshly machined parts. Feel free to pepper this thread with more pics....
  3. RE: interior color, I recall that @Boss Hog 's interior has maroon seats. His is a '53.
  4. Geezus..... I know he's always behind schedule, but not that far behind. Well, at least I warned you, but the finished product is all that matters now. He'll be grinding my 440 crank regardless, I don't care how long it takes. I think he took about three months when he did my last one for the 230 that I have in the truck now. I'm looking forward to seeing some photos of the finished crank when you can get them posted here! Send me some photos of his shop too, if you don't mind....
  5. For what it's worth, I got my new wheel cylinders from Roberts when I rebuilt the brakes over 10 years ago. Not sure where they were made, but they are still doing the job. I probably should do an inspection soon, but I just keep driving it. Stagnation is the enemy of cast iron brake cylinders. Sleeving with stainless or brass is a great solution if you don't drive it that much.
  6. The interpolation of the tappet bore clearance by rocking the head back and forth seems like it would be prone to lots of variables, especially if one is supposed to plug the results into a formula to arrive at the supposed "real" clearance... This reminds me of the manual's method for determining the piston to cylinder bore clearance as well. I didn't like the published method, so... I measured both with various snap gauges and micrometers. This is probably how the shop that performed the machining discussed above measured it. BUT....I agree with B4YA's assessment.... probably all good (nice Starrett, BTW...that's the real deal!). Hey Matt, I was just thinking about you the other day...been meaning to check in. Did you get the crank back from Armando? Hopefully so, by now!!!
  7. Hey Fargo...All of the pertinent information I listed in the post that you quoted. Please check out my build thread linked below for more detailed info and post questions to that one. I don't want to muddy the waters with too much flimflam on Fargone's build thread. S10's were known for the Iron Duke....same 4 cylinder that still powers the US mail delivery vehicles today! I would swap in a 265 if I could get me one, they are nice engines. But I really don't have any complaints about the "little" 218, it works great.
  8. Thanks for documenting your build, I can't wait to see the results of the first A833 trans swap, at least one that's been documented on this forum. As others have said in regards to the rear end ratios, I think you will want a lower ratio as well. Considering the power output of the flattie, you'll want an overall final drive ratio of around 12 to 13:1, in first gear. In my truck (equipped with an OD) I believe the final ratio in first is about 13.5:1. That gets me up to about 10 - 15 mph but a quick start off the line. It works perfectly and I love driving it. Edit: From a performance perspective, I absolutely need this 1st gear for starting out. I can start out in 2nd but it's sluggish.... Edit: On the tall end of the gearing, I have 2.95 final drive ratio. Highway speeds I'm in the low 2k's for RPM. I can climb hills in OD as well. 230 w/ (2) 1bbl carbs. "junk buckets" .... WTF, LOL!
  9. I'd think that if a 12 volt Pertronix Ignitor was installed on a 6 volt system, it wouldn't even run.... I installed a 6 volt compatible Pertronix on mine with the stock 6V coil years ago and have never looked back to the days with points. The important step to take is to call their Tech line and have them give you the appropriate part number for your system, whether 6 or 12 volt, positive or negative ground. they make 'em all.
  10. The only thing missing in that shot are Willie, Waylon, and the boys....
  11. Ah....good to hear. I will check online.... That "figure 8" spring clip...that's the part in the door that the arm slides through?
  12. I need one of these for the passenger side... door is dented where it has opened into the rear edge of the front fender as a result of said piece missing.
  13. That torque converter looks big in the pictures, and heavy.... What's the new manual trans?
  14. Does the Route Van live in MN? I didn't realize how tall those things were....
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