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John-T-53

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John-T-53 last won the day on April 12

John-T-53 had the most liked content!

About John-T-53

  • Birthday 02/01/1978

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    SLO Town
  • My Project Cars
    1953 Dodge B4B - 1955 Chevy Bel Air - 1971 Chrysler New Yorker

Converted

  • Location
    San Mateo, CA
  • Interests
    car restoration, surfing, skiing, hiking, camping, wood working, traveling, photography

Contact Methods

  • Occupation
    Architect

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3,234 profile views
  1. The oiling system is important. I checked back through my photos of the pump rebuild 10 years ago, and I did all the internal deburring, checking, and honed the end plate like this bloke did. However, I didn't upgrade to ARP fasteners so I guess I'm a slacker, LOL.
  2. Either way you will have to hone the cylinders to get the pistons to fit just right (about 0.002" clearance). If the bores are already .020" over you might have to home to .040" as cylinder wear is not usually uniform. You don't sleeve a motor unless it's a last resort. You need new pistons and probably a full rebuild if you're in that deep. Bearings, bushings, valves, crank grind, etc. The size you hone the cylinders up to is usually determined after the block is pulled and each cylinder carefully measured. Then you will know what size they will be after machining.
  3. I forget, were you going to use the right side dash opening as well?
  4. is DPETCA still a functioning item, in terms of a "club"? What are some of y'all's thoughts on combining the two sites and placing all of that knowledge on this site?
  5. El perro de Chile tenía mucha energía!
  6. Not yet, thanks for the reminder. I have yet to install a Baldwin filter as I am missing the internal parts to make the canister work with that type. Maybe next year....
  7. When assembling a motor, the lifters are the second thing that gets installed, after the cam bearings. They're in deep!
  8. Are you gonna get that redhead to come back and pose with the model now? I'd suggest it...
  9. https://www.doorhardwarecenter.com/hardware-brands/schlage/commercial-door-hardware/schlage-a-series-knobs/a-series-keyed-knobs/a-series-entrance-knobs/schlage-a53pd-tul-tulip-keyed-entrance-door-knob-set/ Your old one looks like the Schlage A series "Tulip" style knob. I just got a lockset from the site linked above this week. The A series is commercial grade, grade 2 lock. You can get in different functions, such as entrance lock, classroom lock, store room, and passage....etc. with 'C' keyway.
  10. I recommend not doing anything that would render future adjustments impossible. I doubt you could unscrew that without removing the valve (and head). You also won't be able to get it clean enough (and keep it clean) to use thread locker, while assembled and readjusting. Perhaps try unscrewing it as far as possible and wrapping a few turns with PTFE thread tape, that might help bind it up a bit.
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