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John-T-53

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John-T-53 last won the day on May 7

John-T-53 had the most liked content!

About John-T-53

  • Rank
    Hung Chow
  • Birthday 02/01/1978

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    San Luis Obispo, CA
  • My Project Cars
    1953 Dodge B4B, 1955 Chevy Bel Air, 1973 Chrysler NYB

Converted

  • Location
    San Mateo, CA
  • Interests
    car restoration, surfing, skiing, hiking, camping, wood working, traveling, photography

Contact Methods

  • Occupation
    Architect

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2,103 profile views
  1. More information here as this topic has come up before....
  2. On the master cyl to chassis line, I bump-formed the loop, and happy with the way it turned out, but I wonder if it'll ever be prone to cracking? @PT81PlymouthPickup did you get that tube material at classic tube?
  3. Looks nice. I haven't heard much about the nickel-copper lines myself, but sounds like they were a breeze to work with. I used stainless and it was a b*****! What are the Wilwood inline connectors for?
  4. I like the old school braided look, and ran a set of laquered wires for a while, but the insulation isn't as reliable and would often cause a miss if touching something, even a heater hose. I went with Pertronix "stock look" 7mm wires, cut to length. While not totally stock, they are black silicone jacketed and look stock enough, but more importantly are high performance and will last a long time.
  5. I was previously thinking out using IPE or another variant of exotic hardwood, but I recently used white oak on a carriage door project and liked the way it behaved, plus it's lighter than the Brazilian stuff, cheaper, and smells better. My local woodcraft only had the oak in 31/32" though.
  6. I've had good luck with 1-shot paints. They flow very nicely and are a high quality oil based enamel. I recently requested physical color chip card via their website (subset of PPG) and it was mailed to me within a week, along with a hand written post-it note thanking me for my interest. Since I have it handy, the gal was Erin Teets teets@ppg.com Their office line is: 800-323-6593
  7. Hey Jim, It's possible to replace the rear main without completely pulling the crank, but I can't imagine doing this with the engine installed. Much easier to pull it. The photo below is of a 251, crank raised off the bearings about 1.5". This provided just enough clearance to work on everything. However if the crank is rusty at the seal location, you might need to polish it. "This may or may not help"
  8. I was prepared for the gopher crowd again this year too....
  9. This sounded like a fuel problem to me.... Also check the check ball at the bottom of the accelerator pump well. It usually gets gummed up and/or rusty/caked with mineral fallout. Carbs need goin' through every few years no matter what.
  10. So where / how exactly am I supposed to get my grass mowing fix for this year then? 🤠 🚜 🤠 🚜
  11. Chaos is ensuing here in the bay, a "shelter in place order" just dropped today for my county. Fuggem, I'm going to work tomorrow. I'm not participating in the "rules for radicals" manufactured crisis. Who of y'all can I call to bail me out?
  12. I don't recall this massive of a shutdown and hysteria in 2009 when the swine flu broke out....and killed 12,000 people in the US. WTF. I don't mind the light traffic, though. The freeways around here have been empty all week!
  13. Nothing that a little JB weld can't fix! Maybe you could make a new chamber from a stainless dog bowl, bundt cake tin, or som'n.....
  14. Soak that sucker in a bucket of Evap-o-rust! Karp's Power Brake in Upland, CA might be able to help you out. They rebuild boosters and sleeve cylinders.
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