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  1. 2 points
    moose

    My new 54

    Thirty years ago, my dad bought me my first car. I still have that blue and black 54 Belvedere Hardtop. Today I got another one(but this time yellow and black), I was 17 then, and my son will be 17 in two years. Two years ought to be enough time, huh?
  2. 2 points
    Did the deal on this one today. 1938 P6. Great known history. Solid car. Original interior. D24 engine installed but comes with original P6 engine needing rebuild. Lots of spare parts! Good runner. Test drove it. Looking forward to getting into this car. No plans other than make it reliable, road worthy and safe. Picked up in Victoria BC Canada. I will trailer it home next Saturday.
  3. 2 points
    The P15 is now back on the road and is as quiet as a new 1948! With the windows down I can't hear the engine above 40 mph. Total expenditure was less than $50 which included new gaskets, five new studs, a 3/8" drill/tap, the stud extractor, a tube of anti-seize, four bolts for the heat riser and all new nuts. The block-off plate for the heat riser came from my scrap box. Ten hours of labor working on a neat old car.......priceless.
  4. 1 point
    Dodgeb4ya

    1951 B3F Build Thread

    There should be a hole on the backside of the pin...drive it out with no weight on the pin... This is the tool that is used to do the job....good luck finding one
  5. 1 point
    I did NOT start that fire!!
  6. 1 point
    Lingle

    1951 B3F Build Thread

    Super stoked my replacement body parts arrived today! Cab is in worse shape than I expected but still better than the cab I had. It barely fit on my 6x12 trailer! Now to find some axles that are not stupid expensive. Who knew a Dana 60 front axle would be almost $1000?
  7. 1 point
    Lingle

    1951 B3F Build Thread

    Brad, is this what you are looking for from Roberts: https://www.robertsmotorparts.com/window-channel-without-chrome-dodge-truck-1928-1961-chrysler-dodge-desoto-plymouth-1928-1970-1 DCM Classics also appears to have alot of parts selection for this era of truck, do not know if anyone has used them but here is their channel I believe: https://dcmclassics.com/dust-and-air-seals/225-rw-107-door-window-channel.html
  8. 1 point
  9. 1 point
    Plymouthy Adams

    Battery keeps going dead

    The best way to find a battery drain is to place a test light between the battery and the cable....if the lamp lights, and all things are supposedly off....you have a short...open each circuit feed from the starter, solenoid or ammeter and ignition switch till the light extinguishes...take note that if you have an door activated compartment light to test and disconnect it first to prevent false reads. Keep in mind also you may have more than one short....place a piece of tape denoting the connection point and let dangle till the light is out...when the last lifted wire extinguishes lamp....go back and add each disconnected wire making sure the lamp stays off....this will tell in this is the only fault or if multiple...a buzzer in line will do the same thing if you need an audible alert...you can use both if you wish....many modern digital VOMs have built in audible alerts in the OHM test position. Once the faulty circuit is found your VOM is excellent for zeroing in on the cause...many are simple frayed wires, some are critter induced and sometimes the critter is you pinching a wire when working in and around wiring harness mounting accessories or components.
  10. 1 point
    I borrowed an Induction heater for stud removal. Fantastic tool. Heats only applied, They are expensive, Here is a video for those unfamiliar.
  11. 1 point
    well I was only going by the picture......it may not be enough room...so try the following as a first option... insert a screw driver or other properly size pry bar/tool to get behind the nut and apply some directional force as I use a wrench to again try to remove the stripped nut….
  12. 1 point
    keithb7

    My new 54

    Does amyone have a pic of a ‘54 gauge cluster? I’d be interested in seeing one. Here is my ‘53.
  13. 1 point
    pflaming

    My new 54

    My grill in the 54 fenders on a 53 . All I did was replace the three pice bar with the single bar. Same holes, etc.
  14. 1 point
  15. 1 point
    TodFitch

    from the driver's seat and other images

    Since the topic is "from the driver's seat" and since I just got a setup I am comfortable with posting new videos to, here is some footage from last march that might be of interest: https://video.fitchfamily.org/videos/watch/0a9fd5e9-0501-4310-8981-d7370e2b4d4f
  16. 1 point
    Every summer, Island Falls, ME (pop. @ 800) hosts a "Summerfest", wherein a couple of local businesses host a cruise-in. Ostensibly for our car club, but all are welcome. They have a BBQ, music, and general good time to kick off the town's Summerfest weekend, which is the last weekend in July. A pretty good to-do for such a small town. Club members staging in Houlton for the 30-mile trip to Island Falls. The "hard luck" trophy went to the owner of that Galaxie convertible, he lost a hubcap on the way down that we couldn't find. A first for our Dodge - "zipping" down an Interstate on its own (...any Interstate). I-95, and yes, for those who have ever been on I-95, this road with one car between me and the horizon is the same I-95 with almost 24/7 bumper-to-bumper traffic just about any other place on the eastern seaboard. The club has the slowest car lead on cruises, turned out to be us this trip, but despite leaking quite a bit of oil, the ol' girl hummed along pretty good. A couple general views of the cars in attendance. 25 in all, which I think is pretty good for such a small venue. Just a few Mopar products, our Dodge, a '36 Dodge sedan, and the Polara above. That '46 Dodge truck is on a GM 3/4 ton frame & drive train, it's the guy's daily driver/work truck. And there was a '32 Plymouth coupe hot-rod with a Chevrolet engine.
  17. 1 point
    40plyrod

    from the driver's seat and other images

    One more of mrwstory's car.
  18. 1 point
    40plyrod

    from the driver's seat and other images

    Couple from the front seat of a '54 Oldsmobile on a recent cruise.
  19. 1 point
  20. 1 point
    Happy 4th, y'all!
  21. 1 point
    Spent the afternoon cleaning it up a bit and tinkering. Cleaned up the starter system contacts and grounds. The starter will be pulled, tested and rebuilt if possible. It was not turning very fast, even with a fully charged 6V battery. I was able to get it spinning quick with a 12V boost. Then the car would start. After a couple of those 12V shots , the momentary switch on the starter no longer turns the starter. Even with the starter clutch disengaged. I'll pull it and take it to to a local starter rebuild shop. If anyone is interested, I did a walk-around video this afternoon. https://youtu.be/O2L402Xe-6o
  22. 1 point
    Part of the struggle on a purchase decision was giving up garage space. Today I am quite pleased. I can work with this. The Plymouth is considerably smaller than my Windsor. Those wheel dollies are so handy. Pushing it around, the Plymouth is also much easier as it weighs considerably less too. Today I am satisfied and relieved that I can work with with the garage space I have. All year round I can work on it. The motorcycle seen in the pic is on its way to a new owner. Out of the way soon. Good days ahead...
  23. 1 point
    2:30 am. Just outside my home town. Hiway closure. Serious accident. So we wait. Hopefully no major injuries. Pretty uneventful drive home. The tow truck performed exceptionally well. 15.8 mpg while towing. I’m happy with that. Several new people were met today as they continue to approach. Asking questions. What is it? What year is it? Etc. I look forward to the future with this car.
  24. 1 point
    Anyone know anything about this aftermarket bolt-in Firestone AM radio? I have never seen one before.
  25. 1 point
    Keith, Your 1938 Plymouth looks really good,glad to hear you bought it. It's in good hands...Bonus - getting spare parts including the original engine and the cars history as well.😊
  26. 1 point
    Very nice. There was a 35 Plymouth 5 window coupe at the car show that I went to today. Had a 350 in it though. too bad.
  27. 1 point
    Todd B

    Coolant in the Oil

    I am a carpenter/cabinet maker with tons of experience and very little experience with mechanic work, so don’t take what I have to say to heart. But my experience with O’Reillys is that everything they have is crap kind of like Harbor Freight. It will work but if you need to depend on it on a daily basis it won’t stand up.
  28. 1 point
  29. 1 point
  30. 1 point
    Did a little road trip with a coupla buds last weekend.
  31. 1 point
    Worden18

    Lets see pic of your trucks

    My 1948 B-1-D
  32. 1 point
    Brent B3B

    "Farmer fixes"

    my B3HH has a "pedal stiffener" AKA section of rebar welded to the brake pedal and along the bend for extra support
  33. 1 point
    Radarsonwheels

    "Farmer fixes"

    I took about ten feet of bailing wire out of my 3 on the tree shift linkage...
  34. 1 point
    gregg g, the first five pictures below are of the heads in the same order as the list below. The D42 head is not labeled - it appears at the top with the P2 head below, and is the one that has just been cut. As a note, the D42 head was cut .090" - this resulted in an average chamber volume of 75.4, just a coincidence it's same as the late 50's LD1 chamber volume. As I remember, there was still over .100" clearance above the valves to the head so a .100" cut shouldn't be a problem. With this much of a cut, I don't know what happens volumetric efficiency or how thin the head becomes. This was an experiment to find out if a shaved 230 head would raise the compression on a 218. Not enough of an advantage to justify the cost, especially if the universal copper gasket were used. Might be worthwhile on a 230 if the chamber doesn't become too restrictive - the computed compression ratio on a .030 over 230 with this head and the correct gasket was 7.8:1 P2 head no. 632955-2 89.5 cc P19 head no. 1311810-5 89.2 cc D30 head no. 1120804-2 95.5 cc D42 head no. 1326386-1 96.7 cc LD1 head no. 1676337-2 75.4 cc The last four are the difference in the way the gaskets conform to the chamber around the exhaust valve and between the combustion chambers. Here are the part numbers I've seen for the tighter chamber head gaskets: Felpro no. 7547 steel Fitzgerald no. 0587 steel wizard no. R6057 steel - actually a Felpro 7547 Victor no. V1066 copper Fitzgerald no. 0492 steel - for early non-internal bypass head
  35. 1 point
    Why don't one of you guys volunteer to be a club moderator? We also have members in NZ.
  36. 1 point
    R&D Dodge

    Valve guides, Spitfire

    Hello there.. To anyone interested my progress is a bit slow but moving forward. Valves out, one keeper dropped into oil pan, excited to remove pan in search of it being I will be able to scope out the lower end. Springs are a bit difficult to remove with guides in, I have pulled one, wondering if there is a simple procedure I am overlooking in removing. Getting ready to attempt to push guides out but apprehensive. The two center lower exhaust manifold bolts broke, and as luck would have it I then broke an easy out off in the first one I attempted to extract. Tried welding washer, then nut, etc. to no avail even after pre heating stud but couldn't get enough penetration into stud which nuts just kept breaking off. Lack of welding skills most probable issue... I was very very lucky I got the hole on center and drilled all the way through the stud. This was a trick I learned as a kid working on big trucks. I was able to take an air chisel and drive the broken portion of the easy-out through the stud then start over.. The bad is, the piece is still in the water jacket but I will try to recover it. De mounted 3 tires and re-mounted with decent used ones we picked up which had nice new tubes and flaps. Have four total, they were off an industrial air compressor with most of life being stationary where tires have started to dry rot and have the typical Michelin sidewall cracking, but flaps and tubes like new. Fun thing was I was able to have my oldest son at 16 change two of them after I showed him how. After 37 years I can still knock one apart in record time and fortunate enough to have my Dad's tire hammer and pry bars. If anyone wants a lesson I have one more to change... Thanks much to the several gentlemen who reached out in messages with tips and advice on the valve project. I have spent quite a bit of time researching the site and snooping around, appreciate the plethora of shared knowledge. So sorry to anyone currently affected by the many disasters currently going on. Very Truly, Doug.
  37. 1 point
    greg g

    Oil pan gasket installment

    I usually use a pattern similar to the cylinder head. Start in the center and alternate side to side moving out towards the ends.
  38. 1 point
    Wild Steve

    1950 Wayfarer Trans Fluid

    I recently found these two old training videos and they helped me better understand what's going on with the Fluid Torque Drive that's in my '52 Saratoga. You can't beat Tech!
  39. 1 point
    pflaming

    1954 Plymouth Suburban Project

    " . . . That's an upper line Savoy too!" How can you tell from the pictures that it is an upper line? I'm beginning to like this car more than the convertible. I bought this so quickly I didn't consult my wife. SO. . . gonna have to find some 'off campus' storage for a while or she may follow through on her threat to rent out my bedroom! Oh, the perils of the hobby. Oh yes, HAPPY BIRTHDAY TO YOUNG ED!
  40. 1 point
    P15-D24

    Removing Timing Chain

    Both of those chains have clearly visible sag and should be replaced. Here is what a new one looks like:
  41. 1 point
    P15-D24

    Removing Timing Chain

    Before your start set the engine up for TDC on #1. That way the timing marks on the gears will be correct. You will have to figure out a way to support the front of the engine. You need to pull the front motor mount to get the cover off. If your are going to replace the front plate you will need to pull the oil pan. (Bolt from the backside) (Don C or PA please confirm this) Replace both the gears and chain together. Unbolt the cam gear and you can pop it off with the screwdriver. New one goes on with a couple taps of rubber mallet. Crank gear will need a puller to remove. Slide new crank gear on without keyway, set, then drive in key. Job is way easier if you pull the radiator.
  42. 1 point
    Reg Evans

    Resurfacing Cylinder Head

    Here's a milling chart to give you an idea of how much milling required to reach a certain compression ratio.
  43. 1 point
    James_Douglas

    Fluid Drive Fluid

    For anyone running a fluid coupling... After a year of research as well as an analysis of some original MOPAR fluid drive fluid, I have developed a modern specification of what should be used in the fluid couplings. The original fluid was a pure-base mineral oil with a Saybolt Viscosity of between 100 and 150. The fluid had a Viscosity Index of greater than 80. The fluid had anti-foaming and anti-oxidation additives. It specifically did NOT have any seal swelling agents as these can attack the carbon-graphite seal and the copper in the bellows. This last specification eliminates all modern transmission fluids. After finding several formulas to convert Saybolt Viscosities to Kinematic Viscosities, it appears that the best match to the original specification is a ISO 22 or a ISO 32 oil. However, the ISO 22 is just below 100 Saybolt and the ISO 32 is much higher than 100 Saybolt. Based on a period Lubrication Industry article on fluid couplings that had the following admonishment: Contrary to popular supposition any attempt to use a higher viscosity fluid would actually reduce the torque transmitting ability of the coupling since torque-transmission is dependent upon a high circulation of fluid between the impeller and runner and is not caused by any viscous drag between the two. Based on the research, and discussions with several lubrication engineers, I think that an ISO 22 hydraulic oil with the proper additives and VI above 80 is a documented replacement for the original MOPAR fluid drive fluid. Anyone who wants a copy of my documentation, please drop me a email and I will send you a copy. Best, James
  44. 1 point
    Dodgeb4ya

    leaks common on rebuilds?

    I don't think you will ever see a perfect leak free MoPar flathead six- an eight maybe. I've never seen one!
  45. 1 point
    Allen I.

    Bonneville Day 3

    Three things: 1. This is one of the coolest things I have seen. I am already looking forward to the modifications from what you learned and future results. 2. I think painting the bumper mounts a different color will net you a couple MPHs 3. I showed my wife your posts and she immediately asked "Why?" I responded "Why not?" We stared at each other for a couple seconds before she just walked away. Don't know if that is good or bad but I have witnessed one of our dogs and our cat do the same thing. (The staring and walking away, not asking each other questions).
  46. 1 point
    grey beard

    Question for PCV System Owners

    My Pilothouse has really been running lousy. Today I removed my PCV valve - a big honkin brass affair that came with my system when I purchased it from VPW. I was surprised to see that it screwed apart. Sooooo, I took it apart and was surprised to see no rubber valve at all - just a small piece of metal and a spring. This thing basically amounted to a 3/8-inch air passage vacuum leak in my intaie, all this time. No wonder I had to run with the choke out to get any performance. Well, went to CarQuest, cause' they're closest, and susbsequentially picked out a smallish valve made fror "light Dodge trucks", their part #76-2549. Cost me all of $7 bukkz. Plumbed it up with some gas line hose and a few fittings, and what a difference! Runs like a compeltely different vehicle. PCV systems are wonderful on these old flatheads. They're just the berries for keeping a crankcase clean. But they have to be able to meter vacuum at different throttle positions. The system I purchased was from a military truck of unknown size. I just never even thought of pulling the valve apart to inspect it. Now I'm glad I did.
  47. 1 point
    48Dodger

    Measurement of rear end on 1/2

    Spring perches on a 1968 Super Bee 8 3/4 is 44 inches center to center. Spring perches on a 1950 PH Truck is 44 1/2. The big difference is the spring perches are on the bottom of a 1968 pass vehicle. The 50 Truck has the perches on the top. 1950 Truck axle's two top studs are 3 1/4 apart, the 1968 is 2 inches apart. The flanges on a 1968 8 3/4 are flat on top, the flanges on the 50 are round. the next 3 pictures are a 1950 orginal axle set-up The next 2 pictures are of a 1968 8 3/4 axle housing Next pictures are of a 1950 truck with a 60's 8 3/4 modified with the 1950 style perches put on top. 48D
  48. 1 point
    Tony WestOZ

    Measurement of rear end on 1/2

    Ok a 1952 Pilothouse truck diff is 62 1/4" wide from where the wheel bolts too. It is an 81/4" diff. It looks the same as the 8 3/4" in this chart. This is an 8 1/4" diff. The easyest way to tell the difference between 8 1//4" and 8 3/4" is to count the nuts (bolts, studs whatever) that hold the pumpkin ( carrier whatever) in. 8 1/4 have 11 nuts, 8 3/4 have 10. The other way to tell is the two top nuts are closer together on an 8 3/4 than they are on an 8 1/4. Taperd axles (where the drum goes on) were used on 8 3/4 diffs from 57 to 64. Flanged axles started in 65. There are also 3 pinion sizes from 57 to 72 but thats an other story. Sorry for pinching the pics from another poster but they are better than the ones I have. Forgot, there were some 8 3/4 that had an 4" pcd instead of the usual 4 1/2" pcd. They are rare but it pays to check.
  49. 1 point
    Merle Coggins

    Measurement of rear end on 1/2

    I tried to find some pictures of 8 3/4 axles for comparison, but this is all I could find. Here are some pics of an original axle in my 3/4 ton truck. (1/2 ton axles are the same) Not an 8 3/4" Axle. A dead give away between the two, besides their size, would be the wheel hub. An 8 3/4 would have a flanged axle shaft which would contain the wheel studs. The original axle would have a tapered axle to which the brake drum fits and is held on with a castle nut. Merle
  50. 1 point
    James_Douglas

    Fluid Drive Fluid

    Jon, Since I have never talked with anyone that has run ISO 22 oil, I don't know what the difference will be. I did play with some different oils a couple of years ago in the same car and I could feel the difference in zero to 20 MPH acceleration. One last thing. After talking with several lubrication engineers, it is apparent that the organic additives for anti-foaming and such breakdown after about 5 to 7 years. So, to maintain maximum power transfer and "pamper" the carbon-graphite seal the fluid should be changes about every 5 years. If you want to go into a LOT of detail, email me you number and I will give you a call and go into the absurd detail I have dug up. Best, James
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