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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/04/2020 in all areas

  1. 2 points

    Age 80, a new normal

    I’m there, 81 in September so best to say some thankyous. (1) Names very difficult but Plymouthy Adams, Tim Estrada, Casper 50, Bob Riding quickly emerge. (2) Quick, unexpected passing of friends and relatives. Lost two, one with a six month illness, the other a 60 day illness. (3) personal note: my health seems to be good, only two pills per day, eye sight is fine, no apparent heart or lung problems. But do have a severe hearing loss, I.e., cannot hear without my hearing aid, and now struggling with leg strength (4) forum gratitude : when I started 12 years ago did not understand intake vs exhaust manifold, , the three essentials for an engine to run, the difference between an engine and a motor, negative/ positive ground, body vs chassis. This forum taught me mechanical skills, personal tolerance, better respect for alternate views, religion, politics, and profanity are toxic, the means and value of internet friendships. Few things have been as enjoyable, rewarding, mental expansion as what I have enjoyed this past decade. So then, my unreserved, heartfelt gratitude to each and all. I trust this post is premature, but better that than never. Paul Flaming aka pflaming
  2. 2 points
    IMHO, heat risers are highly over-rated and even more highly misunderstood. The real purpose for adding them when this stuff was manufactured was to keep the carburetors from icing up on damp cold mornings in fall and spring weather in colder climates. You Calofornia fellows could throw them away and you would never miss them. For those of you who feel they are teddibbbbbly important, consider thiis; Heat risers went the way of the outhouse in the early to mid fifties. If they are so critical to engine warmup and performance, how do we live without them today? Ford used a hot air duct from the exhaust manifold up to the air cleaner for the same reason - to keep carburetor icing from occurring on cold damp mornings. This is not a aproblem below freezing or in warm weather. If you live in an area like I do - southeast PA - and the winters get pretty cold, just let it run two or three minutes before you hit the road. Once the exhaust manifold warms up, even a perfectly operating heat riser would already be open anyhow, and is just along for the ride. In no way will a heat riser change your long range economy or your over-the-road performance. Why, nearly half of the guys on these forums have headers or split manifolds - all of which run without them. If yuou are still not convinced, larger trucks and tractors were manufactured without them, as well. I read threads about people worrying about issues like fuel mileage and performance - and read other threads by folks who attribute all their ills to poorly operating heat risers. Likely as not, they cause relational problems with mother-in-laws, as well. This thinking is simply fallacious. Even a brand new, pefectly functioning heat riser is wide open after three or four minutes of engine operation - or it is not workking peoperly. Having said all that, I blocked mine open rather than go to the work of splitting the manifolds to fix a broken spring. Just move it in the clockwise direction until the counter weight is nearly horizontal, or until it won't move anymore - and bend it inward till it hits the manifold and stays put in that position, and you will never need it again. A good working, high temp thermostat will get your engine operating temperature up to normal much faster than all the heat risers in the world. If you REALLY want something to worry about, make sure your heat riser is not stuck in the CLOSED - or counter clockwise - position. Very few things will affect overall engine pefformance and life as quickly as a stuck closed heat riser, for you are literally cooking the carburetor all the time the engine is warmed up. Now if your heat riser is stuck closed, and your thermostat is stuck open, you have a recipe for short engine life, lousy pefformance and terrible gas mileage. There's something we could all do well to worry about.
  3. 2 points

    Love At First Sight

    I wanted an antique vehicle to tinker with, and to use as a daily driver for the short 2 mi round trip from the house to the shop. I was looking for something unique that would also serve as an eye catcher when people drove by my store. One day a customer of mine mentioned he had an old Dodge sitting in his yard for the last 20 years that he was not going to do anything with, and would sell it to me. One look at this vehicle and I fell in love. I could see the potential. Yep, he was in bad shape but I didn’t see all that. I had a vision. My wife calls the truck TANK, because of the green color, and his size. She names all our vehicles. TANK is a 1950 B2C. My friend offered to store the vehicle at his property until we finished building our new house and my garage. The next day the truck was in his garage, on jacks, with the butterfly hood removed, and when I walked in his shop Al had the engine turned over and running on three cylinders. My suggestion: If you want to restore an old vehicle, get about two or three retired guys involved: One with a machine shop, one with a garage, and one that was a farmer. These guys got nothing to do, and lots of knowledge. Long story short: here is what we’ve done so far. We pulled the head and had it milled. While it was off we then pushed on the valves as we cranked the motor until they quit sticking. Al helped me rebuild the carburetor, and do a full tune up. I purchased a kit from AAJ Brakes and modernized the stopping system: modern disks, calipers, piping, master cyl. Swing pedal, and while we were at it put in a hydraulic slave cyl., and clutch swing petal. Roger, the owner of AAJ lives in Portland, so I was able to drive down to his shop and meet with him. He really hooked me up with his break kit. He was very helpful and fun to talk with about our love for old vehicles. Most of his kits are for cars, and this was a unique application for a ¾ ton. In the end I had to get 5 on 5 lug pattern rims from a 70’s GMC truck so the rotors fit inside the rim. George had to drill the rear rotors to fit the 5 on 5 lug pattern. George also fabricated a new floorboard and battery well too, and patched rust holes in the cab body, replaced the front cab mounts and surrounding rusted floor, and took dents out of the roof, and fixed the frame where the rear cross member was rusted out, and replaced the rear shock mounts, and built me a custom gas tank to replace the Swiss cheese original, and installed a one wire alternator and custom bracket (George can make anything in his shop), and repaired the bottom of the rusted doors, and the back of the cab, and replaced the king pins in the front end, and installed the electric fuel pump he talked me in to buying. Over the summer I got a crash course in body work, and learned how to weld and grind and weld and grind, and grind, and grind. Oh yea, and sand and sand. At the end of the summer, 6 months after first arriving at Al’s place, TANK drove on his own power, up to my new garage from George’s shop in town. I now know a little more about a Bridgeport mills, and hydraulic presses, and all kinds of sheet metal bending, shearing, stamping, snipping, and welding, and the plasma cutter Oh boy, and rebuilding a carb., and flat head motors, etc….. George is a capitalist. At first, I paid him for his time, but after a while, I think he got more value out of me learning and him instructing, and he finally gave me the keys to his shop so I could work on the truck when he was gone. TANK now sits in my new garage. I rewired the alternator harness, amp gauge, ignition switch, and battery charging system for 12v. I have all the gauges working properly too, and a remote filter system installed, and I removed the oil pan and cleaned out the gunk, and painted the pan hot rod orange, and this week I am replacing the leaking water pump. I’m sure I missed things I fixed. Oh yea, repaired the choke and idle cables, and persuaded the emergency brake to work with a little WD-40 on the cable. I’m working my way towards the back. I am going to replace the fluids in the transmission and rear end next. Final stage is to reassemble the bed and paint the truck. I want it to be on the road by the end of this summer. So that is about it. I am infinitely grateful for the Pilothouse forum and after discovering the site, and observing that it looks like a great bunch of people, I decided to join, and maybe add to the knowledge base. Oh yea, Ruderhaus is German for Pilothouse.
  4. 2 points
    Plymouthy Adams

    Pin on distributor drive

    IF you have access to an arbor press...this is good device to use....if you wish to tap it out with a punch and grooved v-block...carefully file the pin flush to the collar and proceed from there...odds are it may be distorted and as such larger than the actual drilled hole whereupon any further driving will cause more squish and enlarged the diameter...look at it very close...chose which end may be the bet for filing down and leave the distorted end as the already exited portion.
  5. 2 points

    Starting my B2C restoration.

    My truck looked like yours, under that oxidation I found this! I got a ton of compliments.
  6. 2 points

    engine swap

    Sedan Delivery project - 5.2 EFI Mopar motor, 5 speed manual, air ride suspension , Dakota front clip, 4-bar rear suspension
  7. 2 points
    Most cars on the road today have fuel injection with relatively high pressure in the fuel lines. And the pump is usually in the tank pushing rather than pulling the fuel. So vapor lock is not the a problem with an "everyday car" nowadays like it was back in the day of carburetors. So the oil companies are often making their fuel more volatile than they once did. For that reason the heat riser probably made more difference "way back when" than it does now. On the other hand, because of the gasoline available vapor lock in the older cars is more of problem now than when the cars were new. All that said, from personal experience -- at least on my car -- I think the heat riser helps on cold start drivability.
  8. 1 point

    Vendors for truck parts

    A few new people recently had me thinking to create a sticky post with the vendors we all know and love so it's easier to find for new members. Feel free to add as you see fit! Please add a SHORT blurb about what they do/have. Also check out any banner adds you see from website supporters! https://www.vintagepowerwagons.com/online-parts-catalog <---many Power Wagon parts that fit our trucks, engine parts https://dcmclassics.com/ <---huge selection of parts and re-pops https://www.robertsmotorparts.com/ <---huge selection of parts and re-pops (some NOS available) https://www.oldmoparts.com/ <---huge selection of parts and re-pops https://www.midwestmilitary.com/ <---ONLY source of correct bed-strips for DODGE trucks (others are Ford or Chevy parts), other random similar parts http://www.horkeyswoodandparts.com/ <---DODGE bedside pockets, bed wood kits, bed parts, bed strip offerings (NON Dodge style) http://www.mar-k.com/Catalog/index.aspx <---bed strip offerings (NON Dodge style), bed parts https://www.ebay.com/ <---roll the dice and see what might be out there https://p15-d24.com/classifieds/ <---our own location for buying/selling/searching for http://www.then-now-auto.com/ <---Fuel pump rebuild parts, etc https://www.steelerubber.com/ <---window seal parts https://brakeandequipment.com/ <---brake rebuild parts/shoe rebuild/lug studs https://www.cokertire.com/ <---vintage tires https://www.riwire.com/ <--- wire harnesses
  9. 1 point


    I know that Wanted & For Sale posts must be placed in the Classified section but surely some small amount of leeway can be used when a 1st time poster, ie, he had asked a question regarding the wheels he has on his P15 and the way that the hubcaps are held on......it was his 1st post ........yep, he did indeed ask where he maybe able to get some wheels which is a "Wanted Add" but from my perspective he was a new member, was asking a genuine question within his post that could have been answered without going into whether it was a Want add and to be honest I thought it seemed a bit heavy handed........I am not trying to upset anyones apple cart and I DO know that being a moderator is and can be a thankless task but I thought I'd put my 2 cents worth in.......BTW Welcome Aboard Raaa62..............and regards from Oz, Andy Douglas
  10. 1 point

    The Crusade of the 1951 Crusader

    The gas tank may have a lot of crud in it that sloshes around when accelerating or going uphill or downhill, occasionally starving the engine for fuel. New replacement fuel pumps have an issue of the pivot pin backing out.
  11. 1 point
    Thanks for the input. About as soon as I posted this I contacted the seller and they are sending me a replacement. With as much oil as I've already removed, I'm going to do everything I can to prevent it in the future.
  12. 1 point
    Well another National event has been cancelled due to C19. I just received an email stating that the 2020 National Desoto convention that was scheduled for July 29-August 2 and to be held in Brookfield, Wis. has been officially canceled If you know anyone that was planning to attend please let them know. They are planning to reschedule the 2021 convention to be held in Brookfield, Wis next year. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com
  13. 1 point
    I have had some bad champion plugs as well, i will buy anything but champion.
  14. 1 point
    greg g

    1941 Plymouth P12 TDC - completely lost

    Get AC or auto lite plugs, champs are junk lately. Also recheck your plug wires. You could have everything right but be off one tower on the dist cap. Don't ask me how I know. To
  15. 1 point

    Remote oil filter options ?

    I put a spin on filter. Used this mount https://www.amazon.com/WIX-Filters-24755-Filter-Mounting/dp/B0014BIAG0 and this WIX filter https://www.wixfilters.com/Lookup/Exactmatch.aspx?PartNo=51050 This is a by pass filter needed for these engines. I did have to make a mounting bracket as you can see in this picture. I am happy with this setup and is a lot less messy.
  16. 1 point
    Young Ed

    Thermostat dilemma

    Yup I've got over 20k miles on mine. No issues.
  17. 1 point

    1938 Dodge Sway Bar

    You might contact a company called Addco at least I think that is their name. They manufacture sway bars for a large variety of vehicles. Addco.net is the address https://www.addco.net/
  18. 1 point

    Unrestored vs restored controversy

    I have both restored and unrestored cars. I think a lot depends on how unrestored you want it. I have fully restored two cars that were basket cases to begin with and maintained two originals. Pictured is a 1953 four-door Plymouth Belvedere (Canadian only model as the US did not have the four-door Belvedere). It is 95% original including the paint. I did replace a badly torn headliner and replaced the factory carpet. Other than that pretty original. It has had a ring job and valve lap about 30,000 miles ago. Present mileage is 101,000 and is driven often when the weather is nice. It has its share of gravel rash, dings in the trim, and the bumpers show some wear but overall pretty decent. They are only original once.
  19. 1 point

    Thermostat dilemma

    I used a stat from a 60's 70's mopar v8. Worked fine in my car. Do check the opening temp. by heating in water on the stove and monitoring temp using a themometer - stir the pot constantly while doing this. Stats are notorious for not opening at the correct temp.
  20. 1 point

    Progress on Ernie

    oddly I don't have a pic of me driving....but my buddy got a spin....
  21. 1 point
    Vet Doc

    Progress on Ernie

    Cleaned up, went through, and painted the steering box and column over the past couple weeks. Attached it to the frame, roughly aligned the wheels, hooked up the tie rod, and put on the steering wheel. Maybe in the next few weeks I can figure out wheels and tires and get them on. It would be fun to rig up a milk crate on a board across the frame and take it for a spin around the yard.
  22. 1 point
    Brent B3B

    Vendors for truck parts

    some used parts - https://www.wildcatmopars.com/blank-uz4w1 some general parts and brake cylinder re- sleeve - https://hagensautoparts.com/ general truck body parts- and knowledge..... I'll keep the owner busy whilst you brose the bone yard
  23. 1 point

    1955 C1B Build Thread

    So I am trying to get ready for car show season. Slipping clutch and overdrive are on the top of the list. I went to Franklin Truck Parts and had my pressure plate rebuilt and got a new disc. Now to get it installed and move on the the overdrive.
  24. 1 point
    when I worked DoD Navy there was a saying they had...Navy has two classes of ships, submarines and targets....seriously though I have respect for many sailors as that is a very tough job daily and for the ship to survive in that environment the entire crew is constantly doing work to keep the rust/corrosion in check. This on top of their normal rate/job...and in knowing a large portion of the other guys job as well in case of a survival alarm. It is not a 9-5 job like I experienced in the Army and Air Force career. In comparison, they were underpaid more so than most other military counterpart. I salute you,....now get you butt back to work......😋
  25. 1 point

    Parking Light Lens 50 Plymouth #1340 270

    I spent 4 years at sea when I was in the Navy and I got used to being able to see the horizon. Being in a place with trees makes me feel crowded in. West Texas is about as wide open as the sea is without being on water.
  26. 1 point
    Nick...........the engines been waiting for for over 70 years for someone to show it that they love it again..........please paint it, silver is original but honestly any colour so long as its painted with a colour and shown that its loved..........clear is for putting over the final colour coats on the body...........rust is for those that don't care..............andyd.
  27. 1 point
    As the new year gets up and running, so do my chores to get the homestead ready for the invasion of old truck lovin' builders.... I just want to thank everyone that's ever joined in to help over the years, and those who help in spirit. Its a big task to get things started, but somehow things just know how to fix things up themselves. Jim, Mark, Brent, John T, Merle, Keven, Jeremiah, Tom, GDK, Davin, Don, Bob, ED, Tim, Joe, Paul, Hank, Reg, Bud, Dave, Brian....and others , plus those who don't frequent the forum, but show up every year .... Thanks to all you guys for makin' havin' an old truck fun!!! Tim aka 48Dodger
  28. 1 point
    Tony WestOZ

    Double Flare Tube Questions

    I went down the same road many years ago. I might not have done it had this type of repair not been part of my work. One of those tools that makes you wonder why you put up with the others for so long.
  29. 1 point

    Double Flare Tube Questions

    I upgraded to a hand held hydraulic flaring tool a few years ago. Quality flares across the board no matter what style with very minimal fuss compared to the tool being used in this thread. I regret not upgrading earlier. Just food for thought for those that have trouble or are needing to expand their flaring capabilities. The one I purchased is made by Mastercool.
  30. 1 point

    Tim's multi-year engine odyssey

    My best use for wd40 is a cleaner. I love using it in my air tools. Add some wd40 and then run the tool and run the tool and blow out what you just added, do this a few times and it cleans out all the old gummed up oil in the tool over the years. Then add fresh clean air tool oil. The tool will have power just like it was brand new again. Same when people claim I sprayed wd40 on my old ford door hinges and works like new again, I swear by wd40! They just cleaned all the old grime off the hinges, now they are working like they should, now grease them. wd40 is a good cleaner in my opinion.
  31. 1 point

    The D.C. P15 Update

    Had it out on the town last night going to a local business party for the staff, friends and family. Ran into an elderly gentleman that bought a '48 P15 4 door as his first car for $400 used. He was all kinds of excited to look at the car and bring back memories. He ran a rural paper route with it until he hit a deer. I finally went and topped off the tank - right at 14mpg for the return trip back home last weekend and my little local drive last night.
  32. 1 point

    Remembering Bob Drown

    It's that time of year again. Time for 140th Grahamsville Little World’s Fair. Thinking of Bob and his Way Back machine and Cooper. This is a pretty good size fair and there are a lot events and attractions. Not many of these old timey fairs left around here anymore. It's definitely worth a visit if you're near by or looking for an adventure. The scenery is spectacular too. http://www.grahamsvillefair.com/
  33. 1 point
    Sam Buchanan

    The Windward 48 dodge survivor

    Glad to see that, my new set of cables should be here in a few days, thanks for the referral! Sure is nice to see a vendor charge a very reasonable fee ($3.97!) for shipping instead of using "shipping" as a backdoor way to jack up profit margins. One of our best known vendors charges $14 even if you are just ordering some paper gaskets.........Com'on Man..........
  34. 1 point

    stucked oil ring in T214

    Rebuilt engine with good compression, good oil pressure and 1000 km since overhaul. I would give it another 1000 km of driving to properly "break -in" the engine and let rings properly seat in the cylinders. Will probably see a decrease in oil consumption as engine components wear in. Just my 2 cents. Regards
  35. 1 point
    Pushed it out in the sunshine....
  36. 1 point
    Old Flathead

    engine swap

    rhelm1953,, I'm the new owner of a 50 Plymouth Special Deluxe 2dr,,, I'll save your suggestions and work on the upgrades this winter! I'll bug you for more detail then 😉
  37. 1 point

    engine swap

    Greg..........as Doc says the Shebby and Frod engines will fit however you'll probably get more brownie points from us Mopar Morons with a mopar engine in it...have you considered hopping up the side valve six?.......finned heads, exhaust headers, twin/triple carb intakes, cams and more are available.........this was the 230 cube engine I intended to stick in the 41 Plymouth I had, there are lots of things that you can do to the 6 and again all will gain brownie points from rodders and even restorers.....as for a V8 swap, as I mentioned the Poly is very wide and unless you really must have a Poly then the late A or LA series engines are fine and are actually about the same size as chec & frod engines..........but its your choice.........regards...andyd
  38. 1 point

    engine swap

    Greg......I have had a 318 Poly & cast iron torqueflite in my 1940 Dodge since 1973..........I had to swap in a rack & pinion due to how I mounted the engine however any small block LA series 318/340/360 will fit however adapting to the original 3 speed would be a major effort and of doubtful use as the original gearbox would be a marginal proposition........essentially if you change the engine to a V8 you will probably have to mount the engine offset to the passenger side, engine mount kits should be available and I'd be using the later gearbox whether manual or auto that the engine comes with or fits........you'll have to swap in a later rear axle, connect up the rear axle parking brake and I'd strongly suggest disc brakes on the front...........a subframe swap is NOT the way to go.................have attached a pic of my cars engine bay, yep its RHD and the Poly V8 is MUCH wider than the late 318's so you will find its a better fit...........regards from Oz.............Andy Douglas
  39. 1 point

    engine swap

    Ya a v-8 fits "fairly" easy. AS long a it is a Mopar LA type engine which were made is several Cubic inch models from 318-360. Other v-8 brands /models Do Not fit period! 😆 😉 DJ
  40. 1 point

    Photo Request---- '49 B1B

    I took some photos the other day of the linkage setup on the '48 with the Ball&Ball on the 218; the '49 1-ton with the Stromberg on the 230 was an almost identical setup (currently partially disassembled for short test runs), as well as the '51 1-ton with the Stromberg on the 230...the return spring is attached to the floorboard with a cotter pin as shown. The return spring has tension on it while at zero throttle. Also shown is how close the throttle linkage on the back of the bell housing gets to the bottom of the cab when the cab mounts are worn and the motor mounts are new. The only other engine setup that I have that is complete is on the '53 Spring Special, and it's a bit of a head scratcher. The engine appears to have been replaced at some point, so I'm not totally sold that the B4B setup is original. The return spring, which is smaller than the ones used on the B-1s & B-3s, is attached at the throttle linkage rod at the pivot linkage as there is no clip present like the ones shown in the manual. This spring is then hooked to the lip on the floor board, not to a cotter pin through the floor board. I could not locate a hole in the floor board for the cotter pin to fit, so I'm kinda wondering if this might have been a running change near the end of B-series production...
  41. 1 point

    Tonneau Cover Installation

    That looks sharp & I like the "Low" fit. My bed is just too purdy to cover up though!
  42. 1 point


    bringing up an old thread, to bring closure to it. i was given a box of assorted pilothouse parts from a local guy, and it happened to have a speedometer in it. the "box" speedo was rusted, and the face looks perhaps like a powerwagon, as the numbers are a different font. but, the guts more or less looked the same. i took it apart, and got the needle off without damaging the spring/shaft assembly. then i took the speedo out of my truck, and took it apart, initially thinking i'd just switch a few parts with the "spare". no such luck. either the 2-speed speedometer is different than the small trucks, or the box speedo really was for a powerwagon, and is different. the wick on the 2-spd was @ 12:00, while the other was @ 4:00, so the slot in the shell/bucket was in a different place. also, the attachment screws at the back were farther apart on the 2-spd. solved the slot location issue with a sabre-saw and a dremel, and used a drill-press to put in a new attaching screw hole. ultimately, i used the innards of the box speedo, after cleaning them and lubing with graphite, with the gauge face and needle from my truck, and the original bucket. i also reset the mileage on the numbers to reflect what mine had been, instead of what the donor had. took it for a ride this afternoon, and it works. in fact, it works in both high and low range. it's the first time i've had the indicator working since i've owned the truck, although i did have the odometer working before. kind of nice to not have to guess how slow i'm going. wally
  43. 1 point
    grey beard

    pcv installation

    After much agony and experimentation, I was able to remedy a very rough light throttle no-load cruise surge and stagger problem with my own Pilothouse - after instaling the VPW pcv system - by driling out my main jet from the original 55 size down to a number 50 drill size. Now it cruises smooth as silk. Go figure . . . Guess the added air leak from the pcv leaned out the main metering circuit just a tad too much. Took me a long time to figure this out. Good Luck
  44. 1 point
    Don Coatney


    I just got off the phone with ECI. Ordered there dual master cylinder conversion setup. I discussed the issue James Curl had and was told it has been corrected. I will see when the new assembly arrives next week. Cost was three Franklins and change. Mustang dual master cylinder. All you pure Mopar fans can go ahead and cringe. I now will have a shiverlay transmission, shiverlay valves, Pontiac calipers, a GM alternator, and a furd master cylinder. But if you see me on the road my car looks almost like a stocker.
  45. 1 point
    Merle Coggins

    Valve Adjustment

    Yesterday I had a chance to get back out to the garage and get the valves adjusted on my truck. I had read several times here about doing the adjustments with the engine running. I always wondered how that would work, but I figgured I'd give it a shot. Since I had to run it to warm it up anyway, while it was running I took the covers off and got my tappet wrenches and feeler guages ready. When it was as hot as it was going to get just idling in my garage (with the exhaust vented) I reached in with a .010" feeler guage to check the intake valves. #1 was quite loose and when I slipped the feeler guage into the gap the "tick, tick, tick", that my engine has always had went away. I adjusted it up and now it's nice and quiet. I then went down the line and checked the rest of the intake valves. The rest were pretty good. I switch to a .014" feeler guage and checked the exhaust valves. #1, #5, & #6 were a bit tight, so I adjusted them too. Now they're all good. Once I had them all adjusted I thought it would be a good time to see if I could make a quick video of the process, so I rigged up my camera to capture the action and closed the gap on #2 exhaust valve so I could show making an adjustment. It didn't turn out too bad. I have asked Tim to add it to his Youtube account, but for now here is the video in my Photobucket.
  46. 1 point

    Valve Adjustment

    Ok Merle, grabbed the video and its on the youtube site. Thanks! 48D http://www.youtube.com/user/194853DodgeTrucks
  47. 1 point
    On flathead MoPars with the Sisson Electro-magnetic Automatic choke, a functioning heat riser is important to engine warm-up. Without the heat riser, the intake manifold takes longer to warm-up, while the exhaust manifold heats fairly quickly ( with or without the riser). Since the Choke thermostat/magnet is parked on top of the exhaust manifold, the choke spring heats-up and relaxes as the exhaust warms-up, thus allowing the choke to open due to gravity acting on the choke linkage. W/o the heat riser, the choke opens when it normally does, but the mixture is too lean for the still-cold intake, and we get a stumble or flat-spot until we step harder on the gas and the accelerator pump richens the mixture momentarily. My '41 De Soto (riser missing its spring) is a classic example of this: runs and drives great at dead-cold/full-choke, and also when fully -warm... but in-between ( after about one minute of operation), it begins to stumble on acceleration, and I have to goose the throttle to over-come the leaning-out, until it's warm. As long as I'm pulling a constant speed or accelerating very gently, it does not buck or spit during warm-up... I am fairly satisfied this is due to the in-active heat riser: one day, I tied-it closed and drove it, and the engine ran much better during warm-up: almost no stumble at all... I was so thrilled with the improvement that I headed for the highway, on my way to work. I had forgotten that I had tied the heat-riser closed... until I'd gone about 5 miles, and noticed that water temp was running above normal... so I pulled-off, released the heat riser, and continued at normal temps. I still haven't gotten around to fixing my heat riser, but I am firmly convinced of its value in promoting driveability while the engine is warming-up. I think for those guys whose MoPars have a manual choke, the heat riser may seem less effective, probably due to our management of the manual choke: we keep the choke pulled-out enough for smooth running, as needed, until the engine is warm. My 1960 Chrysler, with its "modern" RB-383 Wedge-motor still has a heat riser to the intake... When heat risers were first developed, in the late Teens and early Twenties, apparently the gasolines then were really low in octane and needed all the help they could get to vaporize... Chrysler's engineering dept wouldn't have loaded their vehicles down with unecessary stuff back in the days when Zeder, Breer, and Skelton were calling the square-dance...
  48. 1 point
    As gasoline molecules are sucked through the venturi of a carburetor they mix with air as they travel through the manifold. The droplets that are too heavy (not enough air) fall to the bottom of the manifold where the "Hot Spot" is and are then turned into vapor. Gasoline does not burn - gasoline vapor does. If the droplets were not heated up they would eventually find their way into the engine, dilute the oil, cause excessive wear and decrease fuel mileage. Ever notice that the hot spot is always right under the carb - that's where the droplets fall. Fuel injected engines don't need a heat riser because the injector does the vaporization. Tom
  49. 1 point
    All Y"all have to admit one thing, no matter HOW you freel ahout heat risers . . . . . . we did stir a mite of controversy there for a minute or three. LOL
  50. 1 point
    A properly functioning heat riser brings the engine up to temp in faster smoother manner enabling the fuel to atomize better and overall cold operation be on the decline saving you fuel in the long run. As for doing away with them in the 50's...you must have stayed in the outhouse while the plumbing was changed in your house as they were alive and well even into the 80's As for Ford the heat tube you see is for one reason..diverts gasses up to the bi-metal in the choke housing to accelerate the opening of the choke butterfly. A functioning heat riser diverts gases but if functional and free will still be blown open on acceleration...an engine under acceleration does not utilize the choke circuits and therefore that mixture is not in the mix so to speak. Can you live without it yes...is it worth fixing...your call...the real nix is the thing closing and getting stuck in that position..back pressure is now the problem, , stumbling on acceleration and increase in engine temp. Leaving it opens lengthens the time the engine takes to get to temp wasting fuel and sooting you plugs..
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