Jump to content

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/14/2019 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    P15-D24

    COLEMAN2a4x4.jpg

    Found these while going through some old files! Big truck 4x4 conversion kits!
  2. 1 point
    Jocko_51_B3B

    Putting It Together - '51 B3B

    My sheetmetal parts are finished and it's time to put it together. I ran into a problem with the engine, so it's back at the machine shop for now. I should be getting the engine back from the shop in a couple of weeks. After the engine goes in, the cab and doors go on.
  3. 1 point
    Fargone

    Tri-power Flatty

    I changed the air filter setup after some input from Tim. This setup is much less restrictive. It will require some extra work but that's the way things go.
  4. 1 point
    Young Ed

    47 Dodge Turkey Truck Build

    Part of the delay in this bed is I've been having too much fun with my new "project". However this one doesn't need much. Picked this up end of May and haven't done much other than drive it. I had to replace the battery cables and I swapped to some plymouth division hubcaps. 318 with push button auto and power steering
  5. 1 point
    '50 B2C

    Pertronix back to points conversion

    Thank you all as a community for helping me out, I was banging my head against the wall trying to figure out if I wanted to just go 12v conversion or stick 6v and I'm glad there is a reliable 6v solution out there. Y'all know how to make someone feel welcome and I appreciate it!
  6. 1 point
    Reg Evans

    1958 Sweptside question

    Welcome to the forum ! I owned a 58 Dodge Sweptside several years ago. Mine had the big back window, a push button auto, and a 315 V8 Poly engine and the rare Model 700 ceiling mounted radio. I'm still kicking myself for selling it. NOTE: the grill was from a 59. Hows about posting some photos of yours here .
  7. 1 point
    jpwuertz

    1952 B3B Interior

    Here is the interior of my B3B with the Quiet ride kit installed. I had to paint it before installation. I am very satisfied with the way it looks.
  8. 1 point
    Brent B3B

    get out there and mingle

    just updating some recent visits I was able to make this year... (not including the BBQ in Clements) new member "Tom San" and myself (local to me new member) made it to BTT50's this year (L to R) Myself, GGdad, Merle, "Young Ed" and Joe and swung by on the way home and met "9' box" what a great year!
  9. 1 point
    13th ANNUAL CLEMENTS TAILGATE BBQ APRIL 4TH 2020 SATURDAY 9AM TIL WHENEVER EARLY TOW-IN BEGINS NOW AND LATE TOW-OUT ENDED YESTERDAY Show up Thursday or Friday and Camp-Out til Sunday or Monday, always need the Help! "Lucky 13teen" Its the best day ever! Old trucks and old friends! The car guys are part of the whole deal too, but man, I love the trucks! Its the place where the largest number of Dodge Pilot-House Era Trucks meet in the whole WORLD !!! (at least no one's proven otherwise ..lol) The people I've met over the last 12 BBQ's has made my life so much better. This time of year is so awesome because finishing an old truck actually has meaning to the crowd you'll see here! Fenders and bumpers to hang on, hoods to lift, parts to swap, and stories to tell! I look forward to it all. Every year is special with returning long distant travelers and new ones that are finally able to make the trip! I always look forward to meeting you all! If you have an old frail beater truck that is weak on the road.....trailer it here early! I'll keep it here on the ranch til show day and you can pick it up when you can.....save your energy for the best weekend ever! ITS A BBQ, NOT A FOO FOO CAR SHOW!! *what is a "foo foo"?* If you have a "Real Bitchin" Shoebox, Shovelhead, Stovebolt, A-Bomb, Backhalf, Barn Find, Basket Case, Chopped Up, Belly Pan, Boat Tail, Nailhead, Pancaked, Resto Rod, ........well, Bring-It-On-Down, me and my friends got a few Dodge Trucks for you'all to see!!! I love Hot Rods and Muscle Cars too.....it is an awesome time to show off the hard work we all put into these old rigs and no need to fuss, Its all Good! ...no mini coopers please...., yea, go ahead and bring one, they're kinda cool. It really is my favorite time of the year. Happy 13teen guys. "The car crowd is growing and more than welcome to come. I could easily call it "The Tailgate/Trunk BBQ"!" "I can't tell you how much I look forward to this every year, its a blast and for some, lasts a few days. Campers show up on Thursday or Friday and leave on a Sunday morning.....all enjoying late night chat sessions around the fire pit." "I hope new and old members alike are inspired to make the trip and maybe even drive their trucks the distance....you know we have your back! " "So many good stories around the fire pit the nights before and after the event. I can't tell how cool it is to have forum members stay several days and just relax....." "Looking forward to a great party! Now build it, and bring it!!!" "It was around 2007 when Bob Koch, Jim Shepard, and myself (Tim Estrada), went to Reg Evans' place to check out his "yard". While we were eating hotdogs, drinking cold beverages, solving international and regional issues....we thought "lets have a BBQ". "Get the wheels on, and the tanks full....its time to finish up and git to the Q! It ain't no beauty pageant of trailer queens, its a truck show...so flex your rust as well as your shine!" Tim aka 48Dodger
  10. 1 point
    Jeff Balazs

    Vent windows

    Well there are a few "jobs" on these old trucks that should earn us a "merit badge" when successfully completed. Removing a badly corroded WDT is one and replacing the corner window gaskets by yourself is another. You haven't lived until you've tackled these. Jeff
  11. 1 point
    goingbush

    New '49 Dodge on the block.

    Anxious wait while our new Dodge delivery is completed. Bought sight unseen from a FaceBook Marketplace sale notice , Travelled 1700km via Webtow, http://www.webtow.com.au Can't be happier, non runner but way better than expected. Original books and paperwork included , receipts showing 4 previous owners. Toyed with the idea of converting it to EV , but its too damn good, going to bring back to new .
  12. 1 point
    Michael Sams

    Dodge b series 1/2 ton.

    Guys this is what I'm going to be working with. But I guess you have to start somewhere. I will be the official second owner of this beauty. And have the whole history on this truck. It's going to be a long road but I'm in for the long haul. I can't wait to get it back up and running and start to drive it. Thanks for all the help so far and hope that I might be able to call on you all for some help.
  13. 1 point
    Reg Evans

    Dodge b series 1/2 ton.

    Usually the 3/4 and 1 ton's have longer beds so the running boards are longer too.
  14. 1 point
    Brent B3B

    Dodge b series 1/2 ton.

    hey welcome Michael, if your doing a "restoration" be careful when you get to removing the emblems.... especially that dash "dodge" script! oh and please don't put the front clip "dodge" script from the 52 back on the 53..... that's just wrong!
  15. 1 point
    http://www.oldwillysforum.com/Plymouth/08-uai/uai.html Check out how Pete installed his in his 50 Ply. 4 dr. some years back. Look in the heading "Interior" on his web page. Enjoy your new car. !! I finally got my 50 4 dr, running good again after 5 years on sitting. DJ
  16. 1 point
    Check out Julianos https://www.julianos.com/Seat-Belts-s/96.htm
  17. 1 point
    jpartington

    Vent windows

    Here is the vent window seal update. i returned my Steele seals and ordered the seals from roberts. I received them today and put them in. A perfect fit turns out the ones from Steele are about an inch too long. The Steele seals were a very high quality nice seal but just did not fit right. I strongly recommend the seals from Roberts if anyone is looking in the future.
  18. 1 point
    keithb7

    We and the Windsor 2018

    It seems some folks are unable to see the pic with my new rims. I will upload it here in a different way.
  19. 1 point
    1940 Dodge VC

    Laycock J-type Overdrive

    A lot of us want to keep our trucks as original as possible and, at the same time, improve the safety and performance to drive comfortably on today's roads. Along with brake upgrades, wringing more horses out of our flatheads, adding seatbelts and tightening up our suspension components, many of us have asked--how can I cruise at 65 while keeping the RPMs in a decent range? The three "big" solutions that stand out are a- swap transmissions for something with an overdrive, like a T-5 or an A833, b- swap rear ends, or c- add an overdrive, such as a Laycock. The problem with a- is that the engine may need to be pulled, an adapter plate might be required, a new hole in the floor must be cut and then there is the clutch... and what about the parking brake? The second option, b- presents the problem of gearing that is too tall for the torque output of the engine, especially if the flathead is wimpy, such as a 201. So... c- was the option that I was most interested in. No modifications needed for the parking brake, transmission or engine. Gear Vendors sells a unit, or you can opt for the route I followed: find a Laycock J-type from a donor Volvo. Here are the modifications that I did: The old truck came with the factory optional, slightly more desirable 4.10 ratio rear end (as opposed to the 5.63 stock rear end), so it could putter happily at 45 MPH and, sounding like a manic sewing machine, hit 65 MPH. I wondered about switching out the rear end—and had picked up one that was a 2.80:1 ratio. After doing a few calculations, I realized that the rear end would make the underpowered engine even more so. Maybe an overdrive would be better? I began a search that led to a Laycock model J overdrive, about the size and shape of a small watermelon. It fit nicely in mid-frame. I installed two drive shafts, one from the to transmission to the overdrive, the second from the overdrive to the rear end. It is important to mount these with the correct angles to preserve the u-joints. I also had to move the gas tank over by about an inch to fit around the overdrive. That wasn’t such an issue—the tank needed to be replaced, anyway. The Laycock overdrive is common on older Volvos. These are often listed on ebay—without the front drive shaft. I found a complete one, cut off the end of the shaft, and had a local machinist weld a u-joint receiver onto the end to accept a short drive shaft connection to the transmission. I fitted an aluminum plate with an oil seal for the front end of the overdrive unit. Ran a 12 volt wire to a fuse and button mounted below the dash--and added a pilot light that shows when the overdrive is engaged--and that was it. Simple! (an aside: make sure that the overdrive isn't engaged when putting the truck in reverse) My biggest issue was with the speedometer output shaft. The truck cable housing wasn’t long enough to reach and the knurled connector didn’t fit. I am working on an alternative, though. A sensor connected to an Arduino, to read the speed and drive a little electric motor connected to the speedometer head… I’ll probably use a GPS to provide the speed signal. BTW, in the process of putting the overdrive in, I discovered that the parking brake drum had developed a number of fractures and was close to exploding into fragments, so I replaced the whole arrangement with a snowmobile mechanical disc brake. That set up works very well for my purposes. Another tip: I put Lucas transmission oil additive—the stuff that you see on the car parts counters—into the non-synchro transmission and it worked so well that, for most of the gears, I can shift as if the transmission is synchro. Very nice. So, does the new setup work? Oh, yeah--I say with a big smile on my face. Oh, yeah, it is very, very cool. My 201 has no problem running the overdrive, and as a side benefit, I get an extra gear in 2nd and 3rd that makes puttering around town a lot more fun. Plus, the overdrive makes it easy to downshift without double clutching. I can wave to people as go around corners! Here are the pictures:
  20. 1 point
    sser2

    Time for an overhaul...

    Fascinating read. Old carbs were jetted for straight gasoline. It is not surprising they run lean with 10% ethanol. You might consider transistor ignition, which allows for stronger spark - wider plug gap and longer spark duration. Burning leaner mixture in modern engines critically depends on it. Original distributor can be used, with points triggering an electronic switch (a Darlington transistor) connected to coil's primary. A 6V coil designed for electronic ignition will be needed. A very simple setup. An additional advantage is complete elimination of points' erosion. Are you planning on using the original oil bath filter? These filters don't clean air as efficiently as modern paper filters, and are #1 cause of rapid wear of old time engines. There are paper filters that will dimensionally fit inside oil bath filter case, if original look is to be preserved.
  21. 1 point
    As Adam stated " Langdon's Stovebolt has the Carter/Weber 32's originally used on the 1.6 and 1.8L Escorts. Work great in duals, I still think 3 is too much" That being said that is a fantastic looking manifold. I have them on my 37 Dodge D5 and have worked flawlessly since installed.
  22. 1 point
    TomP

    PT125 Rebuild

    Job Done, in the end I removed the 4 screws which hold the right hand rear floating mount, within an hour the bracket was aligned to the mounting and bolted back into the frame. Didn't even break a nail. Now to get ready to firer it up.
  23. 1 point
    TomP

    PT125 Rebuild

    Thanks for your support gents, nice to know fellow Mopar guys find the time to browse the threads, here in the UK space for lock-up are a premium, already have 500 sq ft an ex farmers barn which is not suitable for modern farming. I bought my container as an over spill then had the opportunity to buy my 41 Plymouth PT125 and lost my surplus space. None of the photos show the fact that the floor of the container is 2 ft above ground level, fortunately I have a large flatbed trailer tiltbed so getting the truck out will be a dream, here's today's helping.
  24. 1 point
    johnsartain

    glass

    Dish washing detergent and lots of it. Put the glass into the rubber, Lube the outer rubber channel and slip a cord into the channel. Lube the metal with the dishwashing detergent as well. You may want to experiment with mixing a little water with the detergent as some say this makes it more slippery. Start the rubber channel onto the metal that the window goes into. Keeping pressure in the glass start pulling the cord from the opposite side gradually working the rubber lip over the metal. It helps to slap the glass with your flat palm, not banging with a fist, or work the cord in a circular motion as you are removing it. The cord I used was paracord.
  25. 1 point
    TomP

    PT125 Rebuild

    Few more updates from last week, engine trans is ready to go in, just got to clean up the frame, blast & spray, 3 coats Rustoleum, Firewall will be John Deere Green as it was in service. Rust repair to be completed on both sides of the cab, did they all go there?
  26. 1 point
    TomP

    PT125 Rebuild

    You want dirt this is the T142 before and during, after is complete color wise but will have to wait for photos
  27. 1 point
    1 5/8" dorman #560-023
  28. 1 point
    Don Coatney

    6 volt tachometer 6 cylinder cars

    Most all tachometer's use the same connections.
  29. 1 point
    Brent B3B

    Gauge repair and restoration

    Keep it on the low guys, he'll get a big head and others will send him more stuff and I'll never get my 4 set done! LOL, just kidding! Now let's brow beat him into buying another pilothouse!
  30. 1 point
    Plymouthy Adams

    Door Seal Adhesive

    Weldwood rubber contact cement..tape the door opening to the width of your weather strip..coat the door..coat the weather strip..when just dry to the touch..these two will bond like nobody's business...then just pull away tape for quick clean up..wha-la..Bob's your uncle
  31. 1 point
    This is a dual chamber MC but shows how to do it.
  32. 1 point
    David Strieb

    Show Your Wheels

    I run 1950's 15x6 mopar wheels front and back, back tires are P235-75R15, fronts are P205-70R15. Don't know what the caps are from, I modified them to fit the wheels.
  33. 1 point
    deathbound

    Show Your Wheels

    Stock 16" wheels painted black with chrome lug nuts, 6.00-16 Firestone Deluxe Champion bias ply wide whites......
  34. 1 point
    dlrides

    Show Your Wheels

    Added some compliments to the wide whites, with a visor and skirts.
  35. 1 point
    dlrides

    Show Your Wheels

    Stock wheels painted Rio Maroon, Coker 3 1/4" whites, Hollywood Flipper covers.
  36. 1 point
    Don Coatney

    Show Your Wheels

    On occasion I have been called a loose nut.
  37. 1 point
    Don Coatney

    Show Your Wheels

    Here you go. The wheel I get to play with the most. I have liked chrome wheels all my life.
  38. 1 point
    P15-D24

    Using Google to search the site...

    The Google search engine has full access to the site via a dynamic site map. You can use that search capability if your are not finding what you want with the standard search capability. To use the Google search engine in the URL bar add: site: p15-d24.com what you are searching for. The "site:" command forces it to search just the site. For example, type site: p15-d24.com Vanity Mirror and you will end up on the Options page. We are in process to upgrading the internal site search but this is a great additional tool to use.
  39. 1 point
    desoto1939

    Water Pumps

    Yes there are special Miller water pump tools. The is a puller to pullthe end that hold the pull and fan blade. Then ther is a tool to pulland installthe two innter busings. There also is a tool to chase the two inner bushing and also a tool that is used to face the internal section of the bushing. I have these and also a special tool to locate the hole in the main rod that hold the flange to center the hole to drillthe hole inthe main rod that goes throught the pully. I have all of these tools, Miller Tools. Alos note that the rebuild kits if found run about 45-60 dollars sometime you can get a rebuilt WP for the same amount and do not have to worry about if you did the job correctly. So spend 60 for a kit or 70-90 for a pump that you just install and then go for a ride. Some people like to fix other like to replace. Inthe old days they fixed them at the dealership. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com
  40. 1 point
    48Dodger

    It's Alive........bwaaahaaahaaha!

    Hey Jeff, a few comments on that hesitation thing. When the gas pedal is pushed to the floor, you open the throttle plate to allow more vacum to pull gas through the different circuits. The top plate is the choke, when warmed up it should be wide open, if not find out why and fix it.(sometimes a short throttle cable can cause idle fluctuations with the engine moving in a different direction than the cab) If it's a hard pedal push....the accelerator pump is allowed to shoot a steady stream of gas into the system. When you floor it (WOT-wide open throttle)...the vacum drops to zero and needs to build up to continue sucking gas. To help during this vacum drop, some carbs have a power circuit, power system or power valve.The way most work is vacum keeps the circuit closed....when vacum drops...it opens up usally letting raw gas pour in til vacum rises to close it. The B&B has a Step-Up Jet that does this, sometimes called the Power Piston. The idle mixture screw has to be set right, to get the other circuits to run right. If not, you have multiple WOT issues (meaning no fuel). "Set right" means getting the most vacum you can at idle. Not sure you have a Carter B&B, but this is still a good read: 1948 Chrysler Reference Guide On The Story Of The Carburetor And of course the youtube videos on rebuilding a B&B: 48D
  41. 1 point
    OLD DODGE

    DODGE ROUTE VAN (Wanted)

    Large wall poster for the RV. I threw a $20 bill in for size reference.
  42. 1 point
    JJs 1948

    The rarest part ever?

    Here is a Jiffy Jet Windshield Washer on my 48 B-1-B. I bought it from Reg Evans. Mostly complete but found everything else needed on eBay. I need to brush up on learning how to post messages and photos again. It's been awhile since my last post. I'll try to put a few more photos of accessoryies that I have on my truck if this post works. Jeff
  43. 1 point
    aero3113

    Rust on engine block

    I had mine hot tanked then I used some zinc cromate primer, and aircraft engine hi-temp (500 deg) silver spray paint. For the exhaust manifold I used Rustoleium BBQ high temp spray paint (I think 1500 deg.)So far it has been holding up really well.
  44. 1 point
    Plymouthy Adams

    Removing Rear Brake Drums

    also can do internal damage to the carier..this practice is advised against in the repair manual..do not recommend this approach..user take caution..
  45. 1 point
    grey beard

    timing marks

    Okay Gents, a little clarification is in order here.Fiirst off, initial timing is always set at slow, hot idle - NOT at 1200 tpm. This is necessary so that the centrifugal advance weights under the breaker plate in your distributor do not begin to come out and add additional advance. If you set your timing at speeds above slow idle, you are likely getting some centrifugal timing in the mix, which will affect the reading of your timing lighr. Timing on our flatties is important but not real critical. You want as much advance - turn the distributor counter clockwise to adance - as the engine will tolerate without preignition. Usually this boils down to four to six degrees before top dead center. Too much advance, and you get pinging. Too little advance, and the engine runs hotter, burns more fuewl and has less power. As to identifying your acceleragor pump. you really must find a shop manual to know this stuff. It shows a break-down of each part and each circuit. Our Caarter carbs are quite simple and easy to work on, but they must be right to work as they should. I won't attempt to explain the entire carburetor, except to say that at idle, the engine uses the circuit that you adjust with the small screw on the lower side that has a spring behind the head. At higher speeds, the idle circuit is no longer working and the main metering circuit is used. This includes the main jet in the bottom of the fuel bowl and the vengturi cluster in the carb throat. When you accelerate from idle to higher speeds, a hesitation will take place between these two circuits. The accelerator pumop is just a squirter that richens the mixture momentarly on acceleration. Nothig more, nothing less. Terrell Macchine rebuilds old vacuum advances. Bernbaum and Roberts also carry these new. Either way, they are spendy - like $65 to 75 a pop. Good Luck
  46. 1 point
    Charles Furman

    1949 Dodge B1B108 Woodie

    This shot of the inside of my woodie was used in a feature article in the San Diego Union Tribune.
  47. 1 point
    Plymouthy Adams

    Removing Rear Brake Drums

    We can get you a good deal on Forida beach property right here in South Georgia..it is just a matter of time before the Florida panhandle slips into the gulf...less money out your pocket..however you must have patience...
  48. 1 point
    billwillard

    Removing Rear Brake Drums

    Don't knock it till you try it. Have done this for 50 years. BILL
  49. 1 point
    billwillard

    Removing Rear Brake Drums

    Loosen wheel nuts 1/2 turn. After reinstalling cater pins drive until you hear a pop. You'r drum is now loose. BILL
  50. 1 point
    Alan, A few cues to give you an idea what model you have; 1/2 ton trucks have a 108" wheel base 3/4 ton trucks have a 116" wheel base 1 ton trucks have a 126" wheel base I'm guessing it's a pickup, so I"ll stop there. The vehicle serial number is stamped into the left frame rail, just above and ahead of the front axle. You may have to clean up the frame in that area with a stiff wire brush or sanding disc/paint stripper. With that number go to http://www.t137.com/registry/help/decode.php and type in your serial number. It'll tell you what model you have. The engine also has a model and serial number. It is stampped into the block, at the front left side up near the top. Look just below the head to block seam, above the generator/alternator location. The truck engines started with a T. The engine in my '50 truck is a T172. If you have a '51 it would be T306 for a 1/2 ton, T308 for a 3/4 ton and T310 for a 1 ton. These numbers are followed by the serial number. If your engine begins with anything other than a T it may be an industrial engine, like Don says, or a car engine. But if it had been a car engine it should still have the vaccume advance. There are distributors out there for our trucks, or if you're converting to 12v maybe you'd consider a confersion to electronic ignition. There are distributors available for that too. Good Luck, Merle


×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use