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It took awhile 50 years to be exact but my dream has finally been realized , fat fenders and running boards !! All went well, sales transaction, (private party) title transfer and registration with the 1934 vintage stamped from copper license plate, any way I am very impressed with a few things 1. how quickly and easily it fires up , I was a bit skeptical of the 6 volt system 2. how well it rides and steers even with the bias ply tires. 3. how smoothly and quietly that flat head runs, it actually rides better and quieter than my 56 Olds. I named her Fannie Mae . If your from the Midwest and love chocolate you may recognize Fannie Mae as the big chocolate company from Chicago. she reminds me of a big box of assorted chocolates and caramels , this color combo may not be everybody's cup of tea but it works for me and turns a few heads. I've heard some people say it doesn't show up on Plymouth color charts some say it is a factory color carrotine # 4 I think also referred to as the burnt cars ? I'm sure you here would know better than me I'm a pre-war Plym newbie !! I'm learning more daily and as I dive in hope to learn more, I'm not sure what's 100% original to the car and what's not (I'm not a stickler for that) I hope to lean on you guys as I try to learn. here's a few pic's of Fannie.

Thank you Tod for locking. Just to clarify the reason for no political/religion threads is because inevitable someone gets pissed off and it turns ugly. I have seen other forums destroyed by this behavior going rampant. Unfortunately "if people act as adults" is not a given based on my experience. 😒 Robert, the idea is P15-D24 is a safe haven from the the many "outside forces" that can distract us from the primary objective, keeping our mopars on the road!

I bought Alshere59's 1950 Plymouth. He gave me a super deal. Won't be able to start working on it for about two months. The shop I'm renting has asked me to move out by the end of the year. So I decided to build a shop and it will be about two months before it's done. Probably shouldn't be spending this much money but I'm old and I need a place to work on stuff and not worry about the owner changing their mind. The new shop is not going to be big or fancy. But it will be big enough to work on one car at a time and have a lift. I shouldn't be starting another project but I'm too stubborn to stop working on stuff yet. This is a perfect project for me. The mechanicals are good. All I have to do is paint it and then put it back together. I think I can do all that. It may need a few adjustments here and there also. This is a picture of the dirt work and the day the car got here. Had the car transported from Ohio to Texas. That's a story for another time. More news latter.

I have done most of my work through the years under a car port or in the drive way. I was glad when I had the car port. At 71 it was time to do something about that. The walls started going up yesterday and I didn't sleep much last night - kept thinking about all the projects I'm going to do in the new space. More news latter

Saturday I had to say goodbye to the truck... He left for paint! 😁

Because I was concerned with the cable failing and leaving me with the aggravation you are experiencing, I installed an emergency cable that works independently of the standard cable. I goes through the left fender liner, I can pull it by reaching up and forward of the front wheel.

Drag me in to this will ya? Lol. I am still enamoured by old cars. Their simplicity. Doing the needed repairs and maintenance on them. It’s not much work to me. Keeps me outta trouble. Yes I still work full time. Another number of years before retirement for me. I don’t grasp the “time is more valuable after retirement”. Maybe I will get it once I’m retired someday. Yup, my old ‘38 is an old car. Old technology. Old axle. Old brakes. Ancient generator and regulator. Electric wipers were unknown still. But I like it. It takes me back to a simpler time where gas stations were all full-serve with energetic people who wanted to check your oil. Top up your rad. Clean your window. I’m not even allowed to do these things at a Costco gas station. They took away the paper towel. Get in, take your money and get out asap. Build your hot rods. Resto-mods. Or Keep it stock. Whatever you like. Whatever makes you happy. Have fun!

Well I got some welding done on the manifold. Welded the three carb intake runners to the log. Next is the intake runners between the log and the block. Having the carb runners welded allows me to dial in George’s linkage.

To get at the front timing cover you’ll need to remove the front engine mount. You need to support the engine to do that. The rubber on your front mount looks poor. It should be replaced. You’ll need to remove the centre crank bolt. Then a puller to get the pulley off. Look at the sealing surface of the pulley. Clean it up. You may very well want a speedi-sleeve on it. Remove timing cover bolts. Remove timing cover. Kerosene and a brush. De-sludge everything. Clean all mounting surfaces like new. How’s the timing chain play looking? Install a new crank seal in the cover with a press. Get a new gasket in place. I like to copper spray both sides. Lay the cover and gasket in place. Do not tighten it down. Use crank pulley as centering guide. Install pulley. Then tighten down cover bolts. Put thread sealer on cover bolts.

The new shop will have a tall celling for a lift. Going with a two post. A four post would take up too much room. Having a deep concrete beam poured where the lift will be anchored. I have been told that six inches of concrete is enough for a two post lift so I'm going with a one foot thick beam. Didn't get much sleep last night - kind of excited about getting this done. Concrete today. I lucked out and it has been perfect weather here in East Texas for concrete work. More news latter.

I also spent some time getting familiar with wheels with oval valve stem holes. I took the original wheels to Discount Tire to replace the old tube tires with tubeless, and they used standard round rubber valve stems. One of the tires would only hold air for half a day, so I took it back, and they concluded that the valve stem hole in the wheel had "wallered" or rusted into an oval shape, and that the wheel would no longer work. I looked at the wheel when I got it back, and the valve hole definitely looked purposefully oval, so I took it to a mom & pop tire shop, and fortunately he knew about these types of wheels and had an oval valve adapter that could be used to seal a tubeless valve. The other three tires are holding air with the round base valve stems, but I ordered some of these to have on hand and am tempted to have them swapped in preemptively: https://ts-warehouse.com/products/tr501ov-1-1-2-brass-clamp-in-oval-tubeless-tire-truck-valve-stem-pack-of-4 Also available on eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/383164156541 You learn something new every day with these amazing machines... 😊

Please don’t think I still get upset about hot rods. I’ve out grown that. The hot rod guys love really nice paint and chrome. Their cars look fantastic! But the fact is, they were never built that nice even by accident when they brand new. I’ve had the pleasure of closely inspecting genuine “original” Model T Fords. Let me tell you they were just awful! However original Model Ts are extremely rare, they all have been repainted with modern paint and if the owner repaints the car they usually make the body parts fit right. Henry never made them that nice and if he ever saw one that was perfect, he would be mystified how that happened. lol In my miss spent youth I was a dealer mechanic. My Plymouths follow the formula of what a dealer mechanic would drive back in the day. If I can find an improvement from another MoPar vehicle that a dealer mechanic would know about, my car will have it. I have a Model A that the previous owner installed a T5 in. I really don’t like it. I am changing it to a 39 V8 gearbox with a torque tube mounted R10 Overdrive. As far as the wiring and switches and solenoids go….well a dealer mechanic would have an Overdrive that worked as designed. I appreciate the charm of the 49 to 52 Plymouths. I don’t want to get too far away from that charm. I think the Overdrive does nothing to diminish that charm. That’s my formula and while I like it, no one else has to like it. In fact I like the idea that most folks would think my car is dead stock. It’s all about fun and enjoyment.

Was able to get my dash clock working. Just needed to file the contact points for the electro magnet winding mechanism, has been a really good,productive day. Moving forward,slowly, but moving in the right direction.

It was a very fun day! Joy Ride

And my version- 1940 Dodge. Fun car to drive.

I wasn't certain I would do a build thread here until I saw Loren's recent post on Resto-Mods which more or less paved the way. We'll see just how far that grace extends! I have had this car for just over one year determining my direction before finishing my last project (situation normal per my wife). I think having something hanging around the shop and mulling possibilities helps it evolve into a fun project. My last project was a 1961 Volvo PV544 which sat out the required year while I determined its fate. It did not have the stock engine in it, but it was a sound car. I decided to go to the next wave of hot rodding - Electric conversion. Now mind you, I did not do this for green reasons, although that is a nice by-product. I did it for the performance I could get. Approx. twice the horsepower and torque of the original power plant. Let's just say it is quite spunky! I have always liked the business coupes from all the auto makers, so when a Plymouth showed up locally I snagged it. My first impression was the proportioning was perfect for another EV conversion. While finishing up the Volvo, I became aware that I could save a ton of money if I did a swap, rather than from scratch. I did a search for rear wheel drive and learned of someone in Ireland who had reverse engineered the gas engine out of the Lexus hybrid model. In other words, toss the gas engine, buy his $350 circuit board and you could run just the electric part of it. HOWEVER...that would lose the chance at a full 340 HP. So I decided to look for a complete donor vehicle. I totally lucked out at my first salvage auction, getting a running/driving 2007 Lexus GS450H (hybrid). I really didn't know what I got until it arrived at my doorstep on a car hauler. I was amazed it was a totally function vehicle! Just a little smooshed. I have been driving it on our rural roads and really want to transplant as many of its features as possible. Including the 0-60 in 5.2sec take-off. (The Lexus weighs in at 4,134 lb vs the P20 at 3,068 lb) Even by adding for the batteries, I think the final car will be less weight than the Lexus total. I finally got the Lexus on the lift today to check dimensions of various components, including IRS, and it appears it is all doable. I like to keep my builds as reversible as possible, so minimal cutting and chopping are envisioned. The V-6 should slip into the narrow frame at the engine bay from what I can see. Wheel bases are within 1.2" while track will be just inside the fenders. The Lexus uses the same wheel bolt pattern as the Plymouth, so the custom wheels are also in play. Let the fun begin! (Although I have a couple repairs required before rearranging my shop to get both vehicles adjacent to each other.) I think the first order of business will be to strip each vehicle down to determine where everything will go. This could take awhile... John

When I was young and dumb ( friends tell me I may not be young anymore but not much else has changed ) I used to feel bad when someone stuffed a V8 in an old car. Even though I lived for 30+ years in Northern Nevada, I never once bothered with Hot August Nights. Every nice old car had a Chevy V8 which was nothing I cared to see. Well I am changing my tune. Took long enough I suppose. I now love hot rods & resto-mods! You see the folks that build them usually have some great stuff to sell so they can pay for their new V8! And you can get some great deals. In the last couple of months I scored a 50 Chrysler Windsor chassis which yielded 12 inch brakes, a 3/4 inch front sway bar and a set of wheels ( wider by about an inch and a half ). I haven’t done the measurements yet but the lower front A-arms have the spring plates on the bottom, so you could lower the front if you used stock springs. This came from a guy who is putting a Dakota frame under his car with a V8. Yesterday I scored a very nice 230 engine with an Edgy head, Thickstun manifold, Stromberg carbs, rebuilt damper, T5 adaptor ( which I will never use as I prefer an Overdrive ) Reds headers and boxes of parts. This came from a guy who is putting a Chevy V8 in his pre-war Plymouth. I love the charm of my two flathead Plymouths, I always have. Putting a V8 in one just doesn’t fit with how I enjoy them. However, I no longer look down on what other folks do with their’s. Now I get excited by their engineering and craftsmanship. I am no engineer but I appreciate those who are. Are we in any danger of “running out of stock unmolested” cars? Probably not in my lifetime.

I would pass on this article as being a resource. Several inaccuracies. One of them is the following. Synthetics most assuredly DO come with detergents added. Another load of inaccuracies. Sounds like another piece of AI generated drek.

random update time, been slowly working on truck but no big changes. after ~4 year slumber, 4 new injectors and an hour to prime the fuel system, I successfully started the old Detroit and turned fuel into noise yesterday! good oil pressure, no run-away condition. back to doing sheetmetal fab, rebuilding the inner fender since I had to remove most of them for CAC/intercooler plumbing. Im hoping to focus and be done with sheetmetal work this winter as we are looking to move next year so would be nice to drive the truck to the next location rather than trailer.

Thanks! I started off by cleaning out the back of the gauge, then tested it with air. It was right on the money. Reassembled it and ran the motor and the pressure looks good now. It's actually showing slightly higher pressure than before across the board. I think the relief valve was stuck in place, it took a bit of wiggling and turning it inside the get it out. Cleaned up that assembly and replaced it was as well (without the nut). Always pleased when the simple solution in the correct one. I'll sure be watching the pressure closely as I continue to wake the truck up.

I'm so jealous of you guys, with your large multi-bay service barns, equipped with lift, compressed air, and professional welding and machine shop equipment, not to mention LED lighting, while I get by with an extra stall in my 3-car garage. But I get by. "I cried because I had no shoes. then I saw a man who had no feet." {Wise-ass retort: "So I took his shoes.")

At the 3:25 mark here I install front timing cover and gasket. The crank seal install in the timing cover is shown earlier in the video.

I just wanted to post a little update on the performance of this new carburetor. Now that it is finally starting to cool off in Florida I've been starting to drive the car more. I wish I had bought this carburetor years ago, in almost 25 years of owning the car it's never run this great. It runs so smooth and idles so good now. It has more power and it just runs cleaner. I used to always have some exhaust odor and that's virtually gone now. I probably rebuilt that old carburetor 10 times over the years and it never ran this good. Oh yeah and no more leaks.

Good advise on the lighting. I plan on going with LED. The foundation for the shop and carport is in. They are coming back today to pour the driveway extension. The sidewalk looking thing around the foundation is the new drainage path for the back yard.

A salute....to all who have served.... retired US Army and US AF Reserves, combined 32+ years

I've never been able to wear the clutches out in my 1948/50 Chryslers over 40+ years slipping the clutches in them.

The cross bars are screwed into the roof 12 places (and supported on 4 curves and the drip rails), the longitudinal rails bolted to the cross bars, the chair and rider are both belted to the rails. Safer than it looks, but still relieved we encountered no local constabulary on our travels 🙂. Here are a few more photos...

I could get joyous a bit IF those that celebrated Christmas WOULD wait (as you did) to open the season after the Thanksgiving holiday....but Christmas is on sale in all stores it seems long before Halloween candy is offered for sale....which by the way is now being pushed way ahead of that tradition. Early Halloween candy sales is pushed as it has been found that the purchasers will consume this candy ahead of the holiday and will need to go out and resupply.....not disgruntled, just disappointed.

Check your valve train first. These engines are well known for the valves seizing in the valve guides. I had 3 that were stuck. Could not turn the engine over until I had that area cleaned out and drenched in PB Blaster. I had to pull the head and apply some tapping to get them loose.

From what I've heard Plymouths got 1 speed and the fancier dodges got 2 speeds. Dad always said he was going to swap a dodge unit into his 51. Looking at the parts book it appears all the Plymouths got the same while some dodges had a different number. I would assume then the 2spd was optional Bob 51 was the first year for electric wipers so you should have an electric setup

Yeah not really a VIN on these old trucks. They did use the engine number for a VIN, then the frame is stamped up front somewhere with the same number. A lost title can be a real pita in some states .... no idea about yours. It is so common to swap the original engine out with a different one ... now the engine and frame numbers do not match .... red flag for a DMV inspection. Some states it is not a big deal and use common sense. I also would not send a VIN online to someone I never met or did business with .... the guy is smart here. I also agree $3K in its current unknown condition ... if it runs good, brakes work, minimal rust .... up to $5k $7500 I would want all the fluids changed, new tires, full tank of gas, fresh polish and wax and driven to my door step for delivery. Just because it is rare does not make it valuable .... in this case, just makes it harder to find replacement parts.

I found the FB listing in question and this picture has some details worth expanding upon. Original color probably is that white hue on the firewall...if the back of the glovebox door is the same color, then more than likely that was the original paint. The heater core appears to be aftermarket and the hacked appearance of installation and disuse is not a good thing...it's not a deal breaker as it's peripheral to the engine and can be addressed. That carburetor looks cleaner than anything in the engine compartment, so maybe that's recent. The head bolts have been changed to studs with chrome cap acorn nuts, maybe the engine has been gone through, maybe not. The missing rad.cap bothers me, that's easy enough to replace but that chore has been neglected. That plastic fuel filter dangling in proximity to the exhaust manifold really bothers me, kinda tells me the engine has been re-fired after years of being dormant and the owner has lost interest and needs to pay bills before January...who knows what jive he's pushing to unload this beast. The engine number is stamped on the block, and casting dates can be found on the block and head, directly above and below the distributor. A build card would need to be procured to determine if the engine was original to the truck...a shortcut might be that if the truck title number and flathead engine number are the same, then maybe that flathead is original. Modern VINs didn't appear until nearly two decades after this truck was manufactured, so the engine number was used on many titling documents...which can be a problem as back in the day there was a legitimate business in engine rebuilding and replacement to maintain vehicles longer rather than buying new vehicles. These flathead engines from 1951 onwards were basically the same, with changes in compression achieved by head machining. Parts availability should not be an issue though more expensive than blue oval or gm of that era as Dodge accounted for something like 10% of the truck market back then, so Dodges are rare compared to them. The side-mounted spare was not a factory option until 1957 or so, definitely not on a C-1, but there were aftermarket kits available as well as many homemade versions found in the wild. That spare was originally underslung of the bed, out of the way. This truck looks to be a good candidate for restoration, but missing pieces, quick (sloppy) mods and its deteriorated condition are not causing me to drool over it. If there's no title available right now, I would be even less interested. If'n ya showed up with a trailer and 3k in unmarked bills in a paper bag, maybe that could close a deal, but more than 5k price tag is a deal that I'd pass on...these guys want top dollar from somebody who is running on emotion and don't like to haggle with someone armed with knowledge. I like to save a relic from the past from an unfortunate fate, but I don't wanna end up in the poor house reviving a basketcase

I rebuilt the hinges on my ‘49 P17. The original pins measured approximately 0.34”+/-. Replacement pins were too loose (too narrow). My first thought was to bore out for a bushing, but decided to just ream the hole for a 0.37” pin. If that failed, I could go larger for a bushing. I used a 9.4mm & 9.5mm core drill bit to get close, then used a hand reamer for a tight fit on each pin. That was easy. The more difficult part was dealing with the flanged holes in the bracket for the pins. The bracket is not thick enough to hold a bushing unless brazed in place, and the flange walls are not thick enough for the 0.37” pin. I used TIG to run a bead (1/16” rod) around the flanged holes to thicken the side wall, then bored & reamed to 0.37” to set the knurled head of the pin. I did find some pins that measured 0.342 and was able to ream one of the hinge tongues from 0.341 without enlarging with the drill. I purchased the pins on-line from O’Riley’s auto parts

I recall the C-1-B rims should have the 5 x 4.5 bolt pattern...fwiw, that side mounted spare rim is not original either, kinda looks like the spare rim I had on the 92 Dakota. The big problem with the C-series was its limited run: C-1 debuted for 1954, with a brief run into 1955; then C-3 debuted in mid-'55 with many running changes, the most notable being the cab + doors going with a more forward look, and ran into 1956. By 1957, the sheet metal forward of the cab completely changed. So the grille + front fenders for the C-1 and C-3 are interchangeable, but the cabs and doors are not. The C-3 cab was used in small trucks until the end of 1960, and in large trucks until the end of 1975. So in some regards, the C-1 was a one-year only production run...that can make parts scarce and repairs expensive. As for steering and braking, the B-series and C-series were very similar. I do not have a factory parts manual to verify all part numbers, but there were quite a few items from the B-4 that carried over to the C-1, as well as C-1 items carrying over to the C-3 and beyond in compatibility, most notably powertrain and suspension parts. The big change for C-1 steering was moving the gearbox outside the frame rails, as the frame was made more narrow at the front axle to decrease turning radius. From a cursory review, this changed the B-4 steering gearbox casting, but the internals were unchanged or slightly modified.

The problem with an annual inspection reporting your mileage and basing taxes on that is people will get a big tax bill once a year and raise Kane about it. Kind of like how the income tax morphed into a payroll withholding situation. What the states ought to do and most likely will end up doing is you pay the tax as you charge your EV much like you pay the tax as you fuel your gas vehicles. That way they bite you a little bit at a time instead of a big chunk all at once

The reason for doing it is the cover won’t slide off the sector. A full turn will do it and it’s easy to put back to the original adjustment. I can’t stress this enough, the sector adjustment will not take the slop out of the steering. It only controls the engagement of the gears. The main culprit is the tapered rolling bearings on the steering shaft. The manual says to grab the steering wheel and see if there’s any movement. If you can feel any it really makes a difference if you can adjust it out. Do that check with the sector out of the box. Tapered rolling bearings seem to like some preload so don’t be shy about taking some shims out. Just make sure the steering doesn’t get heavy without the sector.

Go grab a beer and relax .... is normal. You have a stomp starter and the stomper (solenoid) likes to rust up if not used. By adding water to the equation the stomper has rusted or corroded over faster. I use to take the solenoid on top of the starter apart and manually clean it to remove corrosion and get it to start working again .... probably a good idea to do it one time to see how it all works. Then I got lazy and just started pushing the starter pedal about 50-75 times and it would self clean and start working again without taking it apart. My truck is still not on the road, I do start it up and move it around the yard from time to time .... when I let it sit for long periods, the starter pedal does nothing and makes no connection. Hit it with water and will speed up the process ..... I use to take it apart and manually clean it .... now just stomp on it a bunch of times and it self cleans.

3:73 is better for highway, 4:11 is better for truck things and slower speeds. I read a post from a guy a few years ago, he had experience with 3:73 and 3:55 with a T-5. He loved the 3:73 and could cruise effortlessly down the freeway .... they worked good. The 3:55 gears, in 5th gear cruising down the highway was good, but if came to a slight or moderate incline ... he was always downshifting into 4th because he did not have enough torque in 5th to pull the incline ..... so with the 3:55 it kept him busy to drive it, enjoyed the 3:73 better. Same time many have ran the 3:55 gears with no problem, they have fresh engines .... some have headers and dual carbs .... they run ok with 3:55. You have a average motor with moderate miles on it, the 3:73 seem to be the sweet spot. Personally I think I want to stay with 3:73 to limit high speed. With a straight axle front end and factory springs/suspension. I imagine 70mph would feel like 100 mph and plenty fast enough.

If you're going to install front disc brakes I would suggest going with rear disc brakes as well. I used the Rusty Hope front disc conversion and a Jeep Cherokee diff which had disc brakes and with 3.73 gears. My original 51 had a 3.73 so no issues with the speedometer. The truck stops like a modern vehicle with 4-wheel disc brakes and parts are readily available. You can find details of the conversion in my 51 rebuild thread. The diff I used was a 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee diff with 3.73 & disc brakes, Dana 44HD-A. I would suggest staying away from the 44HD because it's an aluminum center section diff. I would suggest instead look for a Dana 44 from a Jeep. The jeep diff will require 1.5" wheel spacers if you're using the stock 51 wheels.

Hi EAG: Yes, you can bypass and jumper your way out of almost anything, BUT: let's do a little logic here.....Does the car still have its original 1951 wiring harness? If so, take a good look. Is it stiff and brittle? Can you see any bare wires? Will pieces of insulation flake off with just a little flexing? Do the headlights go dim when the engine goes from road speed to normal idle? Again, is that wiring really 73 years old? If the harness has been replaced, was it done right? (i.e. with the appropriate gauge of wire) or a slop job by someone who didn't know what they were doing? Remember the name of the game with 6 volt systems is current, and the more current you are trying to draw, the more deleterious the effect of a given amount of resistance will be. Worn, frayed and oxidised wiring will have more resistance than wiring in good condition. And it matters: for example, if you draw 12 watts from a 24 volt system, you're pulling a half amp. (24x.5=12). It will be one amp in a 12 volt system (12x1=12) and yes, you can see where this is going, 2 amps in a 6 volt system (6x2=12). Lots of folks will switch out their 6 volt systems for 12 volt because they use wire of a gauge specified for 12 volt systems, because that's what you'll find at the auto parts store. Things will of course, work poorly. Six volts will work just fine when done right. Clean. tight connexions are a MUST. NEVER use those auto parts store battery cables! Triple ought is the way to go! So, my advice to you would be yes, check the ignition switch, but don't eff around, rip that harness out and replace it. For functionality, peace of mind and safety. These harnesses are quite simple, I've made quite a few, and with modern insulation you can go up in gauge (down in number) with the same thickness, giving you even better current handling. Supplies are available from Rhode Island Wiring and YnZ's Yesterday's Parts. They will also make the harness for you, even going up in gauge and with original style colour coded cloth coverings if you should so wish. Expect to shell out some buckaroos if they make it for you, though. I bought my first harness some 30 years ago, but after that I made my own. The process is quite easy, actually: you stretch out the original harness on a board 3 or 4 meters long and duplicate the lines one by one, keeping track of your colour codes, of course. You will want a volt-ohm meter at your side. You can also use the opportunity to add wires that might not have been there originally, such as for turn signals and back-up lights that you will want to add in the future. Hope this helps.

I found this decently-preserved 1947 Plymouth Special Deluxe at a yard sale approximately 5 years ago. While the car wasn't actually part of the sale, I spoke to the owner and we struck up a deal for the car at $3750, which I felt was a good deal as the car had spent the majority of life in a garage and had 36,000 original miles. I was in the middle of buying a new house and moving, so I didn't get to spend much time on the car for the first two months. Once I did finally dig into it a little and started it up for the first time, it was running very poorly and had dropped a cylinder. After pulling a compression test and finding cylinder 3 with 0 psi, I immediately knew I had a stuck valve. I then proceeded to pull the head and low and behold the exhaust valve was fully stuck open. I sprayed a little bit of ATV at the stem and tapped it down lightly with a rubber mallet. After working it up and down a few times, it freed up and has been perfect ever since. Crisis averted. Since owning the car I have converted it to 12v with all new wiring and a fuse block, discarded the heavily damaged original seats and installed 10-way power black leather seats from a 2015 Ford Escape, and started patching any holes in the floor. I've linked some videos below of work I have done to this point, with much more to come. I have new black carpet to install and a new creme headliner as well. But the car is truly coming along.

Restoration Specialties out of PA....they pretty knowledgeable and will guide you if you are not up to speed on sizes...all this stuff is made by one company only and sold by many...however, not that many are up to speed on specs and apps.

this is why you order parts by your distributor model number........

Last weekend my local AACA club went on a car tour and we went to the Boyertown Car Museum in Boyertown, PA. The museum is the old Boyertown Truck Body Manufacturing Plant. Boyertown Boded trucks were their main business and they were very popular in our area. If you ever get to the Allentown or Chester County area plan a visit. They trace the history of all vehicles from sleight, coaches-buggies, bicycles and cars and trucks that have either been manufactured within the tri county area. Some very unique cars and trucks. When I first entered the museum I saw the back end on 1937 Chrysler and from the rear I knew it was a Durham Bodied car. Durham body works is a famous custom body compnay that was located in Rosemont, Pa which is next to Villanova near Villanova college. Upon reading the attached poster on this car I also learned that Durham Body Works was at one time a Chrysler Desoto dealership. The current building is nw the Algar Motor company that sell lotus and other high prices cars. Also of note is that the picture of the one carriage was made by the Wolfington Coach Company that later on became the Wolfington Desoto dealership located at 34 and Chestnut street in Philadelphia, PA. The dealership is closed but the name is still being used in Exton PA as the Wolfington Bus Company. I have shown my 1939 Desoto to the Great Grandson that nw runs the Bus company and told him that my 1939 Desoto was sold out of the Wolfington Dealership back in 1939. Also during my visit he informed me that the Wolfington dealership also did custom bodied cars and that they would share between them and Durham when ever they needed additional experienced craftsman. I told the tour guide about the history of my car and they then took pictures of my car after our tour was completed. I have attached pictures of these cars and the carriage for your viewing pleasure. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

Other things that can cause issues pumping: An air leak on the suction side of the pump. Collapsing flex hose. Clogged fuel line from tank. Clogged filter in tank.

You can slip the clutch when accelerating from a dead stop...I do it at times with out just dumping the clutch. You can accelerate from a dead stop faster when needed by properly slipping the clutch. The FD clutch discs are not that delicate is all I'm saying.

Well, that's interesting. 31 views on the thread but only 6 hits on the YouTube. Clearly not a compelling initial post. I wonder if this screen grab will stir up more interest...