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  1. Finally got some more welding done. Enough to allow a test fit on the motor. Everything seems to fit with no clearance issues. I was concerned about the firewall but it clears it.
    7 points
  2. Problem solved. The original grease fitting hole is a little less than 8mm diameter (about 7.9). So I got an 8mm and were able to press it in with a small socket over it and using a 2 leg puller around the control arm and turning the fitting in. Pretty happy with that.
    5 points
  3. My 47. I just completed a 55 mile drive to our lake cottage.
    5 points
  4. So I opened up the paint booth today. Was a balmy 55 degrees out. There were no bugs injured in the process Actually came out OK, the fenders were total junk. A before pic of the passenger fender, the best one of the two. They are still rough, they are stronger now then when they were new ... I love them. I will work them over before I put final paint on them .... I see a few dents already that I classify as character and will be left alone.
    5 points
  5. Well, the perfectionist in me remade the driver side. You can see the "production" pieces on the table and the prototype off to the side.
    4 points
  6. Starting to make progress again on the bed planks. The new planks have now been fitted and according to the weather forecast the weekend temps are going to be good for staining. We'll see how that goes I finally managed to track down a new Upholstery shop. The shop that did the seats closed their doors last summer and I have been searching off and on since then. The new shop is a guy that works out of his home. He's Cuban, doesn't speak English and uses an app on his phone to translate Spanish to English and English to Spanish. I won't say his work is perfect but it was more than adequate for my truck. I'm happy with the results. I forgot to clean up the arms so I'll take care of that this weekend. I believe the arm rests are probably out of a 40s/50s Chevy but they were in a couple of Pilothouse trucks back when I was going through all of the yards looking for parts. The B1/B2 arm rests don't work on a B3, the hole spacing is different. These arm rests fit the B3 hole spacing perfectly. I can't wait to get them installed!
    4 points
  7. 4 points
  8. https://youtu.be/85ztYz5Rc6A?si=oXcvqvlu9ccBvJRh https://youtu.be/nWHSw9J86jE?si=YoBEs5b3LG0AYxuA LISTEN TO WHAT HE SAYS about the Coolant distribution Tube, and about infrequent and low operating temperature conditions in the 2nd link. Some valuable wisdom learned over many years of experience and many trips to training sessions. Run them often, run them hot, run them so they work. parade speed runs to the ice cream store once a week are not doing them any favors.
    4 points
  9. Passenger side done....as usual the second one looks better...I figured out a way to jig the beads so it would run straight. Way less stress on me and a better look.
    4 points
  10. Well, here's an update as to what's been happening with the bed saga To start with, the wood I've been trying to use is Cypress which would have been fine if it had been quarter sawn. Instead, it was flat sawn and immediately after planing it to thickness I started having issues with the grain opening up, so much so that you could catch it with your fingernail. The bottom line is the quality of the wood did not make me happy at all. Next, I'm assuming you all noticed the gray color of the finish I applied. I was told when I bought the stain that it would dry darker, i.e. closer to flat black, it obviously did not. At this point I decided to re-coat the gray stain with a different stain that was labeled Total Black. It was touted to be able to be applied over an existing stain, unfortunately it did not apply well over the gray stain. It's been over a week and it is still tacky to the touch. I'm not a painter at all so I'm sure my methods had a lot to do with the poor quality finish. I finally bit the bullet and decided to scrap the existing Cypress planks and go a different direction. I talked with Steve at DCM Classics about the plank kits he sells and I've decided to go with his Ash plank kit. The kit has the boards routed for the shovel strips and the large washer holes are countersunk. I hemmed and hawed for a while about rabbiting for the shovel strips but decided in the end to just go with it the kit as is. I should have it in a week or so. So that lays to rest the decision on whether to countersink and rabbit 😄 With work on the bed on hold for a while I decided to tackle adding a hitch to the truck. To me, a truck without a hitch isn't really a truck I ended up buying one of those universal receiver hitch assemblies and custom fitted it to the truck. The top of the receiver tube is about 2" below the bumper and the center of the hitch is about 14" above the road. I have no real plans to use the truck for towing but I have several trailers that I'm always moving around and I think the truck would be suitable for short trips. Having four wheel disc brakes sure won't hurt matters any. Anyway, the hitch installation is done, I just need to add the wiring connector and connect it to the tail lights.
    4 points
  11. Probably the same way many of us have done with many engines.......put oil in the engine, start it and verify oil pressure is indicated in a few seconds. Done. An overhaul should include applying assembly lube to the bearings and moving parts and that offers lubrication until the pump fills the galleys.
    4 points
  12. If they're a little wonky they'll better match their owner... 🤣
    4 points
  13. I went for it yesterday on the first running board top skin. Those long beads are tough to try and keep straight. Did I? Mostly.....at least its gonna be Rino Lined and not gloss back!
    4 points
  14. When I bought my 34 it was all stock EXCEPT the exhaust, the previous owner had found a Fenton split exhaust manifold and converted the otherwise stock vehicle to dual exhaust which would have been OK except the mufflers used were in my opinion obnoxious !! Now I could have lived with the duals I could not live with the exhaust note so I brought it to a custom exhaust shop and asked what can you do he said options were two new mufflers or convert back to a factory style single exhaust, we agreed that option #2 single exhaust was the best option and to work they went. they fabricated from scratch a two to one pipe to go from the split manifold to the stock size muffler which they neatly tucked up just ahead of the axel, now I don't know if that's the factory configuration but it sure worked out great and now the obnoxious sound is gone !! I'm a happy guy !! that old flat head just did not sound right with those pipes. Now it sounds like a 34 Plymouth should. So you know Arizona is not the exhaust capitol of the world due to our dry climate so this shop stays mostly busy with classic and custom exhaust, they didn't even bat a eye when I rolled up in the 34. it only took them about a hour nice to see true craftsmen at work real artist. The name of the place was Madd Hatter Exhaust they have been there over 25 years.
    4 points
  15. had to use the truck to move parts to/from my jobsite. cold this morning, so i took a short clip of it starting at -2*F. temp at daybreak was -5*F. no tender, no ether. starts like it always does. one pump, half choke. u-toob short of cold start hauled a few loads of cordwood from the jobsite a few weeks ago, too.
    3 points
  16. The extended lip faces the crank gear. If there is a spring in the seal that spring and open part of seal should always face the oil side of crankcase/ crank gear. Make sure the timing cover is not damaged/bent from other seal install or removals in the past. Properly support the T-cover when installing the new seal. Lube the seal lip and apply a small amount of sealer on the OD of seal before installing seal. Use the proper diameter driver to install slowly and carefully.
    3 points
  17. Leather seal + oil slinger combo was replaced by the rubber lip seal because the manufacturing technology improved, making the rubber seals cheaper and more reliable than leather seals. Leather seals are still available in certain applications where oil is under low pressure, but opt for the rubber as leather requires oil contact to stay pliable; sitting for long periods will dry out the leather, leading to premature failure. A problem with the older seal technology was that as the seal material aged, it became harder and less pliable. This would lead to a small groove wearing into the sealing surface that a new seal would not make adequate contact with, leading to leaks. Speedi-sleeve is your friend when this happens.
    3 points
  18. Perhaps, we’ll start a small bail fund for your eventual incarceration. BTW, I never got locked up for my driving, but let’s just say that I am lucky to have just survived the hot rod antics of my youth.
    3 points
  19. I feel the need, the need for speed. Sorry I'll always be a lead foot. I put about 50k miles a year on the work truck, company owned, GPS tracked, so I abide. But when I am in my own ride it's A fiery horse with the speed of light, a cloud of dust, and a hearty "Hi-yo, Silver, away!" Now I need to practice the best launch techniques, lol.
    3 points
  20. I was a little concerned when I found that the back panel was in one piece, mainly because when I was installing the brown cardboard panels they were really tight fitting around the windows. After comparing the two I don't think I have to much to worry about. The ABS panel opening is definitely larger than the brown cardboard and should be a lot easier to install. The stars finally aligned where I had all the bits and pieces ready for installing the fog lights, so I finally finished that task today. Only remaining item is plugging the two lights into the wiring harness. I just didn't feel like crawling under the truck today This picture makes it look like the light is contacting the grille, when it reality there is about 1/2" clearance.
    3 points
  21. I'm not going to engage this debate other than to suggest that ANY oil available today is far, far superior to what was used in our flatheads back in the day. Probably no need to over-think this one.
    3 points
  22. My buddy and I have been working on getting his Peugeot woodie ready for the National Woodie Club event being held this year in July in Santa Barbara. I would be driving my Plymouth woodie to the event, but I will be trailering his wagon, which has never been shown before. The 1948 Peugeot 202 U (Utility) was directly copied from the 1934 Airflow. Peugeot engineers visited Chrysler's engineering team in 1934 to get permission and design ideas. As you can see, they saved $ by putting the headlights behind the grill! As far as we know, my friend's wagon is the only one of it's kind in the US. And you thought finding Plymouth parts was hard!
    3 points
  23. Well,I did some more research today. I found the issue. Unfortunately you never know 100% what was done on a 80 yr old car in the past... I took the carpet down to get to the pedal assembly. Turns out the floor up to the toeboards have been 'patched'. Not nicely welded, but a screwed in replacement piece of sheet metal.😒 At least it's sheet metal and not some plastic or whatever, but still. So they had to relocate the holes for the pedals and the gas pedal studs. And they weren't very precise in doing so. So the studs are located about half an inch too far up and too close to the pedal linkage. Also a fraction too close to each other. I ended up grinding off some sheet metal above the linkage and adapting the stud holes on the correct pedal. Eventually it was a good fit. Dennis
    3 points
  24. Looks pretty good to me. As long as you don't have a stumble when accelerating, it's probably fine. If you think it does need improvement before stretch the spring. 1. Take the carb apart and clean out the pump circuit to make sure there's no small debris clogging the output nozzle. 2. You can adjust the stream. There's a lever on the bottom of the carb that connects to the accel pump. There's three holes in the lever. Changing the hole where the linkage is connected changes how much the accel pump is depressed. The holes are account for seasonal changes. If I remember correctly the outer most hole will provide the strongest stream.
    3 points
  25. These were the caps on the 49 when I got it. “PLYMOUTH” is raised on these while I seen it indented on others.
    3 points
  26. Did I mention I hate paint? .... well let me tell ya I should be shot for this one .... I painted the fenders the wrong color ... gloss black and not semi gloss. Just too many paint cans lying around .... I grabbed the partial can from the corner of the garage where I thought I left it and sprayed. Then I went to put the rest in the office so it wont freeze .... and the low gloss paint was in there. I instantly knew I sprayed the wrong paint. Gloss paint does not work well at all with this truck and especially these rear fenders. Oh well they have paint on them to protect them, I can move forward and work on the wiring now and repaint them later.
    3 points
  27. You guys realize I also own a beamer and that's how I pronounce it and I don't care what the hoity-toity types have to say about it.
    3 points
  28. 3 points
  29. Ya mine sits for 5ish months and I don't do anything beyond hooking the battery back up. By the time it pumps up a little fuel it's already made oil pressure
    3 points
  30. Good question. What would be the best way to find out? I do have this beast that I've been wanting to play with...
    3 points
  31. Sorry I spent a lot of time out at sea. I read every book on the ship that wasn't a tech manual and started reading the dictionary.
    3 points
  32. Glad to hear your thoughts on this. I stopped by the machine shop and his thoughts were the same. He was a bit perplexed as to how it could have happened. The machine shop owner gave me 3 options. 1) try to have it welded and repaired in place, 2) pull the engine, find a replacement block and he'll eat machining cost to get another engine going, 3) run it as it is and if there is an issue on the next year, revert to option 2. This is after I've sat on this engine for 2 years after they did their work. We'll hopefully fire it up this week.
    3 points
  33. WE used burlap under the foam. The wife and I went to a local upholstery supply house, got a good price on every thing needed and they were a wealth of information. here's a couple of pics.
    3 points
  34. I don't know if anyone has posted this before, but here is a well recommended supplier of replacement automotive glass for Mopars and many other classics. https://www.vendio.com/stores/bobsclassicautoglass/
    3 points
  35. It broke off the seat back at the first of three rivets that hold the rest of the hinge on the seat back. You can see that mine has a reinforcement added.
    2 points
  36. I no longer have that ball and chain holding me back. It's amazing what I can afford now. DO NOT use this crazy idea,
    2 points
  37. Got a seat upholstery kit for Christmas and started work on the seats 1/18. I removed the old upholstery and cleaned up and painted the frames. The back frame was in excellent shape. The bottom had a few broken springs and some strut breaks. I repaired the broken struts with some ⅛” brake line and JB weld. I wrapped the spring breaks with light wire and covered with JB weld. The original upholstery was held in place with clips in the frame channel. That would not work with the heavier vinyl and it is very difficult to get them out so I used hog rings. In most cases I was able attach to the springs but I had to make some extensions using weatherstripping adhesive and some leftover vinyl I had laying around. I also used the vinyl to reinforce the cover where I was attaching the hog rings. It all came out pretty good. The back corners were the most difficult. I used some indoor/outdoor carpet instead of burlap then 1” high density foam and batting. I used a 5oz tube and a half of weatherstripping adhesive. 3M super adhesive is slightly better than permatex.
    2 points
  38. Got the kick panels installed and got the bed plank staining done. Overall the staining process went fairly well, but there was one board that just wouldn't darken up. The second board from the right has three applications of stain, the other boards only one. There's always one in every crowd..... Either late tomorrow afternoon or Tuesday morning I'll apply the Flood CWF Oil.
    2 points
  39. You know, I just read this so ....
    2 points
  40. Installed the new ABS door panels and the arm rests today. It looks so much better than the brown cardboard. I might do the kick panels tomorrow in between staining boards.
    2 points
  41. Suggestion: Go to a good quality automotive paint supply store. Ask to see if they have a supply of plastic molding clips. Also take along one of your stainless steel moldings and then try to find one of the clips that will fit into the back of the molding. I did this with my 1939 Desoto. Reasons: 1. The old steel clips will rust and then the water when it runs down behind the trim will eventually leave rust markings on the paint. 2. Since the new clips are plastic they will not rust. 3. When pushing the clips and the molding back into the hole it will not chip the paint and or even send crack marks in the paint. 4. If you have to remove the molding at a later time the plastic clips will just comeout very nice and clean and its easier to remove the moldings. 5. No one even sees the clips so go with the modern clips. 6. Go to the web site for Restoration Supply in Windber PA. they have a great selection of plastic clips and they are a great company to work with for supplies. It might take an hour or two of your time to find the correct size plastic clips but it will make you reinstall much simpler. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com
    2 points
  42. I don't know but you could call them and talk to them really great old school shop. I can also take pictures that might be able to help. Mine still runs perfect. The original carburetor never ran this good especially for this long but it was pretty worn out. This one has literally run Perfect Since I installed it.
    2 points
  43. APRIL 5th 2025 CLEMENTS TAILGATE BBQ in CLEMENTS, CALIFORNIA Home of the largest meet up of Dodge Pilot-House Era Trucks in the WHOLE WORLD!!! MARS AND JUPITER TOO!!! We get invaded by Vintage Cars and Trucks from other makers, BUT WE DON'T CARE! CUZ WE ARE COOL TRUCKERS AND DON'T MIND THE WEIRDOS! ...at least I don't.....lol Looking forward to seeing everyone again!!!! Woohoo! Its on a private ranch, my ranch, no admission, no tickets to buy, plenty of clearance for everyone!! Bring a chair, something to cook or share, or eat the free provided by ME ! Big Blocks, Small Blocks, L6, Straight Six, Old Hemi, New Hemi, Modern Hemi, Don't care, just love your ride and share the story! Timothy A. Estrada aka 48Dodger
    2 points
  44. As requested here is a photo of the installed trim ring, they are exactly what I wanted style wise. they were a pain in the ass to install as in once you got one portion set the opposite side would pop off I do wish they fit a little tighter to the edge (there is a gap) but I think they will be ok.
    2 points
  45. I made a minor discovery today. The thread on the lid of the Master Cylinder is the same as the end cap where brake lines screw in. Which means if you want to put a remote reservoir on the firewall say, it’s easily done if you have an old master cylinder rusting away in your junk pile. The end cap has two holes for the front and rear circuits. It will screw right into the top and then you have a ready made adaptor for remote reservoir. When you hook everything up you can use a plug in the extra hole to purge the air from the master’s reservoir. I am putting in my VH44 power brake booster and figured this out because the end cap has two holes and I only need one for the booster signal, I have to plug one of them. I chucked an old rusty cylinder in my vise and removed the end cap with an 1 1/2 inch socket and an impact wrench. Cleaned and took it to my NAPA store for the plugs. ( 3/16 ths double flare is the size ) Once back at the shop I was curious to see if it would thread into the fill cap opening and it does. eBay has a cheap VW remote reservoir for $13 which will work very nicely. So Wednesday I will go back and terrorize the NAPA folks again for more fittings. I love it when a plan comes to gather!
    2 points
  46. Your understanding is correct; the only advantage to switching to synthetic oil on an older engine is that your wallet will become lighter, which may be helpful when attempting to escape the wraith of an ornery swarm of bees 🐝 the most cost effective approach on older engines is to use a store brand non-racing oil, a quality filter (not fram), and a minimum of annual change...even the original shop manuals said to change annually at a minimum, especially with engines not equipped with a filter.
    2 points
  47. Today an old friend called to go look at some old cars. He called last week, and I was busy on the roof I and asked that we pick a colder day for such an activity. He has the ich to buy a 1936 Plymouth coupe like one he had when he was younger. I say an old friend on two accounts. He will make 90 years young in two months and I've had the pleasure of knowing this like-minded energetic individual for some time. He picked me up and our first stop was "The Last Detail" shop a short drive away in North Chicago, IL. This shop was very impressive and had some of the nicest quality cars I've seen in a while. The only car I took a picture of today from the two places we went is the 1934 DeSoto Series SE Airflow. It presented so well and since I never seen one let alone this up close and personal I had to take a picture (These pictures are from their website) Collector and Classic Cars For Sale Chicago | Used Luxury Cars Chicago | Best Collector Cars Chicago. They of over 100 pictures of each car on the site and pictures don't do this one justice. The young man that showed us around and answered questions said they have a website with many pictures of all the cars as well so I will include it for those that enjoy looking at cars on cold days in the house. The second shop was "Northshore Classics" in Mundelein, IL. which had a really nice selection of cars of varied degrees of condition and detail normal to what you see at most classic car shows but I was ruined after our first stop.
    2 points
  48. Wobbles can be corrected by mounting the pulley in a lathe and using a dial indicator and hammer to straighten. You still have bigger fish to fry, the pulley is not a huge item. Clean & polish the snout and hole with red scotchbrite. file down any burrs or bulges from hammers.
    2 points
  49. Just wanted to add these hitch installation pictures to my main build thread.
    2 points
  50. We did the first hopefully of many Christmas light parades this year with the 1952 B3GA First gear low speed on the rear end and I just idled the whole way with my foot off the gas! It's like it's made for a parade. Fun was had by all. This weekend it's a Christmas caroling hayride.
    2 points
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