bamfordsgarage

It wouldn't take a competent auto-electric shop long to repair your generator. I'll bet you could have it fixed and back on the car in less time than it takes to: figure out what 6-vt alternator to use; find it; buy it; 'drop it in' (as if🙂); and sort out the wiring. How much driving are you going to do while the generator is in the shop? A fully charged battery will start the car multiple times and run your ignition, signals, brake lights and so on for hundreds of miles. If you need to use the head and tail lights in a pinch, they will do OK... dimmer than usual and y

Would anti-seize reduce the friction between axle and hub and put more stress on the key? My main experience with tapered axles is on Model T Fords. Lots of worn axles, keys and hubs in that crowd, and these are often attributed to insufficient axle nut torque — and grease etc on the taper.

I'll be at Hershey in October assuming the border is open — my 4th time and according Rich Hartung's source, maybe the last 🙁 In 2010 my friend and I drove the '47 D25 from Edmonton AB (roughly 400 miles N of Montana) to Hershey and camped in our stall right on the show field. On Saturday we entered the old heap in AACA's massive judged show, category "Historical Preservation of Original Features". Originality was all important, condition hardly at all. Perfect for this car. HPOF cars were judged against a standard, not each other. Anyway, it would be just great to have

Norman, you might be over-thinking this replacement roller thing... PlymouthCranbrook found something usable at the hardware store, an auto-glass shop could easily have what you need in their junk pile, there could be dozens of equivalents in the breaker's yard, or a local machinist could carve you one from billet in less than an hour. A $45 kit that includes stuff I don't need — plus $55 shipping — plus waiting who knows how long for it to arrive? Not for me. Buying on-line can be and often is the best way to go. This doesn't sound like one of them.

It’s only 81 in Sundre AB right now, but getting hotter. We’re just having an ice cream then saddling up for the 180 mile drive to Edmonton, where temps in the 90s await. My 1926 Model T (far car) still has the original rad… hood off helps and I’ll probably be OK. Buddy’s Model A was vapour licking something fierce yesterday, we hope pulling the hood and insulating the fuel lines will control it.

Our hometown of Edmonton Alberta, roughly 400 miles north of Montana…

Now that’s a new expression to my ears. Mind you, I’ve always been a cat person…

Very slick. I have a particular appreciation for shop-made specialized tools. Thanks for posting.

Good morning Tim... I didn't check for caster or camber: assumed/hoped it was unchanged from my last professional alignment, couldn't conceive of DIYing that apparatus and process, and will get the full meal alignment deal after new tires are installed. For now, it seems to track and drive pretty well. FYI, my only other experience with alignments is on Ford's Mighty Model T... castor and camber are baked into the front axle and can only be adjusted by bending same, and ideal toe-in is about 3/16"

Post 2 of 2... Photo 6: One pointer is lined up dead-on the line at the RF tire, front. Photo 7: Other pointer is about 1/16" outside the line on the LF tire. This indicates about 1/16" toe-in; factory spec is 0-1/16" toe-in. Success! Photo 8: Turntables are required to enable the front wheels to turn freely no matter how small the adjustment. Photo 9: Exploded view of turntable. Auto body sheet metal, 2x6 top and bottom, carriage bolt pivot, washer between top and bottom at the pivot point, lotsa grease. Out of pocket expense: $0. Ti

I recently replaced the steering box in my '47 D25 Sedan and needed to centre the steering wheel and set the toe-in. After reading up on the procedure in the factory service manual and a '60s auto mechanics text, I built some crude but serviceable equipment from stuff lying around the garage. It seemed to work pretty well. When I replace these tires, I'll have the shop double-check my work... Photo 1: First task was marking/scribing a circumferential line all 'round the tread. This gizmo uses a ball-point pen refill, spring loaded against the tire to compensate for minor out-of-ro

Really? That’s a pretty definitive statement if Matt Wilson‘s suggestion to short out the plugs hasn’t been tried, or the head removed to look for debris. I had a similar noise in my D25 and it was a bit of broken piston ring partly imbedded in the piston top.

Hey, that was fun to see again — thanks for posting. The video is from an open garage for our local club last October. The Harley owner/builder is Jay Mauer, who has an equally cool ‘40s Harley and what may be the world’s smoothest-running Model T.

How about a picture or two?

Hi Fleiter — that is an INUKSHUK. These are man-made stone landmarks or cairns, historically used by some northern indigenous peoples for way-finding, cache markers and so on. They are found above the Arctic Circle in Canada, Alaska and Greenland. More HERE. We acquired this souvenir Inukshuk in Canada's Yukon Territory, on our way to another road less travelled — the winter ice road to Tuktoyaktuk, furthest north one can drive in mainland Canada. Photo below is the old heap at the end of that road, a picnic spot on the shore of the Beaufort Sea. Second photo are two Tu