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Dan Hiebert

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Dan Hiebert last won the day on October 27 2018

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About Dan Hiebert

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands
  • Birthday 08/21/1961

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Ludlow, ME (near Houlton, beginning/end of I-95)
  • Interests
    Old cars (duh), antiques in general, anything outdoors, cuckoo clocks, and German Folkmusic
  • My Project Cars
    1948 Dodge D24, 1937 Hudson Terraplane, and 1970 VW Beetle (driver)

Converted

  • Location
    Wheatfield, NY
  • Interests
    Old cars (duh), antiques in general, running marathons, homebrewing.

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  • Occupation
    Retired Chief Patrol Agent for the U.S. Border Patrol's Houlton Sector

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  1. There is no "registry" that I am aware of, but then again, one would have to register their car with a registry for that to work in the first place. But, depending on just how curious you are about the numbers, your State's motor vehicle component (DMV, BMV, etc.) may entertain a query about how many are registered in that State. They may not divulge who the owner is, or their private info, but they may tell you how many 1947 Dodge sedans are registered in the State. I went with a friend to register a 1945 Ford F-1 in Texas many years ago, and they flat out told him he had the only one registered in the State without him even asking. I asked Maine BMV how many 1937 Terraplane 4dr sedans are registered here, and there's only one...mine. I had to go to the main office in Augusta, the town office where I registered it doesn't have the resources to look that up. Not that there aren't other operable 1937 Terraplanes in ME, mine is just the only 4dr sedan registered. Some States are tight with that kind of info, some aren't.
  2. To be blunt, these cars were engineered to use DOT 3 brake fluid. Other fluids, such as DOT 5 silicone based fluid will work but you will notice a difference. I don't know the mechanics of it, but DOT 5 in a system engineered for DOT 3 will seem spongy, almost like there is a bit of air in the system. DOT 5 is good for show cars that don't hit the street very much, as it does not attract moisture, and doesn't ruin paint. I put DOT 5 in our D24 several years ago when I rebuilt the braking system because we weren't using the car much and were in a relatively humid environment. It has held up very well, but I don't like how the brakes work now that we have been using the car more...the aforementioned "spongy" braking, even though the system was thoroughly flushed. (As noted, the DOTs don't play well together.) If you intend to use Dotty as a regular, or even occasional, driver, then I'd recommend the tried and true DOT 3, and just adhere to regular maintenance on the brake system.
  3. Simply awesome! I'll once again thank you for sharing your "adventures" with us. I must say your youngest girl looks a bit more enthused than your oldest one...although we've seen your eldest's excitement with the old car often enough. I've always enjoyed that time of year between when the last leaves have fallen and the permanent snow sets in, (you'uns down south may have to trust me on this one...) you can see so much of the world around you, and everything is so nice and crisp. That was only a couple weeks over here this year, but memorable none-the-less.
  4. I, too, would like to follow your progress on the '38 this winter (as much as following your adventures with the '53). I had originally thought I would start a cosmetic resto on our '37 Terraplane this winter, but I scored some long sought after parts for our D24 not long ago that I think the restoration thereof will take precedence () then I have to replace the clutch on my VW Bug. Not that I won't have time to do some work on the T-plane, our winters here are just as long as yours (we had snow on the ground for 8 months last winter), and our old autos are tucked away for the winter now, too. Got a nice snowfall a few days ago that looks like it'll stick for the duration. I like to get inspiration from other folks in similar situations. Our garage/shop was originally built to house a nefarious year-round marijuana grow, (many years before we bought the place, and many years before Maine legalized the stuff), so it is well insulated against Maine winters, I can just about heat it with a match, but have a nice pellet stove in it that keeps it at t-shirt temperature on the lowest setting most of the winter. Sometimes I may need to turn it up to two or three in February. Anyway, here's to long winters that give some of us time to putter with our cars without fretting about getting out and driving them at the same time.
  5. Those were quite entertaining, thanks for posting! I like Martin's (the truck salesman) statement about Dodge building trucks "since 1915...for 30 years". Interesting perspective, they hadn't even been building trucks (or cars, for that matter) for as long as most of our cars are old now...
  6. Wow, I sure hope you were being sarcastic when you wrote "totally unbiased"... I vaguely recall seeing other automobile (and other products) comparison ads when I was a kid, but I also recall a lawsuit, in the '70's I think, that some company won that prevented companies from showing "opponents" in a bad light. I don't remember if it was car related or something else. Some kind of defamation/libel/slander thing. Since then, no direct us vs. them advertising, (with a little bit of creep now and then). Anyone else have similar recollections? Regardless, thanks for posting that, I found it rather entertaining.
  7. ...there's refrigerator magnates all over our fridge...
  8. It helps when the heater works, but I've always liked the warmth of the sun through the car windows on cold days.
  9. I would say that depends on just how dirty the cable is. If it hasn't been serviced in a long time, or if it was serviced with the wrong lubricant, even recently, it may pay in the long run to remove the whole thing. You will be able to tell once you get the worm out of the casing, (unscrewed from the speedo), if it was lubricated with anything other than lube made for those types of cables (IMHO graphite is best), or if it has dirt/grime/gunk, etc., on it, it may be best to go ahead and remove the casing for a good cleaning as well. A bit more work, but always worth the effort to do a thorough job.
  10. Yep, remove, clean, lubricate, reinstall. But, don't use motor oil, you'll just have to do it again in a year or so. Use graphite cable lube, the stuff is made to lubricate, primarily, speedometer cables. It can be quite a messy endeavor, but worth the effort.
  11. The one I mentioned is about 1/2 way between Alna and Wiscasset, not quite 5 miles northeast of Wiscasset. The Sandy River & Rangeley Lakes Railroad is in Phillips, and the Maine Narrow Gauge Railroad Museum is on the Casco Bay waterfront in Portland, next to the ferry terminal.
  12. Ditto. By the time you find any, you can make several yourself. Length is the same as the outside width of where the shaft fits into the handle, across the holes for the pin in the handle. On our '48 D24 they're 5/8th of an inch long, 1/8th of an inch in diameter. Nothing special about the pins, a couple I made out of nails as TodFitch did, and at least one out of a broken drill bit. Cut them to the right length, file any burrs off the ends, and presto.
  13. Always more to the story, as suspected. As I said, that's what we could surmise from the info we had over here. It's a tad surprising that we didn't get more info, power companies overcharging and underdelivering is an issue here, that would have made for good "con" reporting.
  14. Here's what we saw from the opposite side of the continent. The State of California sued PG&E for the Camp fire and won. Everyone but PG&E cheered. What we surmised from that was - if the State is going to blame someone specific for such an event, natural or otherwise, then that someone is going to take measures to prevent what the State said caused the fire, as in shutting off the power when it gets dry and windy. Lo and behold, that's what they're doing.
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