greg g

How many miles on it? Almost looks like it could have been a small aircraft fuel truck especially with what looks to be a transfer pump above the rear wheel.

Great truck! Wonder what stories it would tell?

Where are you, where was the truck built? Dodge trucks assembled in Turkey were badged as DeSoto for the eastern Europe and north African market.

There are two different bypass systems being shown. The cast iron fitting with the short piece of hose I'd the external bypass assembly, the sheet metal housing is for the internal type which also has a head casting with a small bump out on the forward end of the head casting. Which are you using?

It is in the p15 d24 downloads area. There is only one pattern as the piece is mirror image one side to the other. Print out the download then copy adjustng the % of enlargement till it makes the ruler full size. Then the template should be at correct size. Retainers are wire staples.

It is in the p15 d24 downloads area. There is only one pattern as the piece is mirror image one side to the other. Print out the download then copy adjustng the % of enlargement till it makes the ruler full size. Then the template should be at correct size. Retainers are wire staples.

The car was designed to utilize the upper range of the transmission in 90% percent of normal on road driving. Low range was for starting in slippery conditions, using engine compression braking on long slow down grades, pulling a trailer up steep hills, or when remodeling, pulling your house off its foundation. It was never envisioned to be used on a daily transporting yourself or the family around town or across country. With a top speed of 20 mph or so using it is kind of an exercise in redundancy. Just use reverse and high range and enjoy the clunks. You are not going to win any stoplight drag races no matter how you shift it.

http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Lit/Master/024/index.htm https://www.allpar.com/mopar/m6.html

The 38 coupe was the one with the pistol dispenser under the dash board. My favorite option!!

With the engine at idle,let them go to the position where they stop, then quickly close the valve. What happens?

Bolts should be 65 70, studs and nuts mine has bolts.

On another note, when adding your coolant to the radiator only add enough to cover the rad core by about an inch or so. If you top it up it will puke out the volume it doesn't need. If you continue to top off, it will continue to puke excess out. As long as the core is covered you are good.

What did you use for a final torque? Bolts or studs and nuts?

Everal of the bolts go through water jackets and are prone to seepage. You can pull those that are leaking, put thread sealer on them and retorque. Did you run it up to operating temp yet and doma retorque? It is part of the procedure to achieve operating temp, let it cool to 100 degrees or so then do the torquing sequence again. Assuming you followed the correct pattern as per the manual, or at least a alternating star pattern from the center out.

Nice! That's quite a first trip. But, I guess that why they built them