greg g

When I go to manage attachments it shows 28 or 29 pages of pictures and other graphic stuff I have posted through the years. I have never seen a message like that. Most of what I take is done at my devices lowest resolution settings.

Went through similar with mine. Finally rechecked the plug wires for the 13th time and found evmn erything correct but one cap tower off. So do the static timing procedure again ( I'm sure you are now expert on it) then remove the dist cap and assure the rotor is indeed point to where you hàve the wire for number one cylinder. When I did mine, it started so quickly it scared me.

Check out the repair section of the Imperial Club website,they have an extensive amount of technical info and trouble shooting guide for the M 6 transmission. These things are pretty bulletproof. Most faults usually occur from rusty connections, bad circuits, and not internal mechanical issues.

Usually a sign of worn rings letting compression leak ( blow by ) which causes the cranked to be under pressure than neutral or under vacuum whencruising. 60 psi oil pressure suggest a stuck pressure relief valve. The service manual states 25 to 50 is proper operating range. This is usually a free and clean procedure, but it can indicate a broken spring in the assembly. Constant 60 will push oil where it ain't supposed to be. The valve is located on the left front of the engine under the generator just above the block and oilpan seam.

Next time you are at a yard, check out Saab and Volvo convertible rear seats.

I always thought of repair manuals as things like the old motors manuals. Ok for major stuff and regular maintenance over a wide span of years. The shop manuals brand and model specific for your year more detailed and specific to the job with later editions having tech tips and updates from field experience. The parts books are best for their exploded illustrations of assemblies illustrating how components relate to each other. I have the service manual for 46 to 50 Plymouth and they parts book. Both of which I frequently refer too even if I have done the job before.

Are you sure your brakes are releasing fully? Have you checked the relief hold in the bottom of the mc reservoir to make sure it's open. Do you have suffient Freeplay at the top of your pedal stroke? These can lead to not releasing the switch and keeping tabs lights lit which of on for long enough can now the fuse or trip the breaker.

A set of very similar 20 inch rims were on my business coupe when I first saw it. We bought it from the original owner. He used it for his work vehicle. He was a manufacturers rep for several brands of agricultural equipment in central PA. His work to him off the beaten path to visit farmers in the area around State College. In his day only the state highways and village streets were paved. Once away from town, gravel roads with were the norm, and driveways may have been mile long wagon tracks over hill through the gulch and through the creek. When I went to get the car he had removed these high clearences rims for a pair of 15s on the front and 16s on the back and a pair of 16s with no tires in the rink. He also had made stone guards for the oil pan, still attached, and the muffler and differential. There was a fellow on this forum a y?ear or so ago who had found a plymouth suburban that had a similar tall and narrow wheels on it for off road use. Who said ATVs are a recent development??

Tim, you need one of these??? Don't remember a 2dr hdtp wagon.

The Dodge dealership I drive for had one of these in white on the rack last week. 413 torqeflite. With 38k on the clock. Looked nearly brand new underneath. Was in for leaking power steering. 65 Dodge 880, Don't think they made many. Remember a few around when they were new.

Does the car drive??? Pull the cotter pin, loosen the axle nut 3 or so threads, put the cover pin back in. Take it out and drive 10 to 15 mph alternating turns like a race driver heating their tire. When you hear a pop drive home and proceed with your repair. Yes it is scary to contemplate but nothing will fall off.

The drive Spud seats into a slot in the oil pump. It can only go so far.

If you remember ohms law, you will see amps decrease as voltage increase so putting 12v through a 6v switch is half the resistance load it was designed for.

Which pump do you have? There are several that work. Some with glass sediment bowl, some with auxiliary pump for vacuum wipers, some with no glass, some with diaphragm on top some on the bottom. Put up some pics of your pump

I just did similar. Put it back to original. Rode like a lowered tuner for on the bump stops. The shocks were way to stiff. Handling was better flat through the turns but felt every seam ripple and pebble.