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Loren

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About Loren

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    Advanced Member

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  • My Project Cars
    1952 Plymouth Suburban

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  • Location
    Dayton, NV
  • Interests
    Antique Cars & Motorcycles

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  1. Well I wish you very good luck! I’ve ground tapers and I can tell you it is devilishly difficult. Be prepared to make a lot of scrap. Even with really good machinery it would be a miracle to get it right on the first try. I am sure there are people who grind tapers all day who have the skill to do it but they are very rare so be patient.
  2. The standard automotive taper is 1 1/2" per foot. If you have one of the parts you can calculate it out to one foot. Since Ball Joints and Tie Rod Ends are hardened it's always easier to ream the Pitman Arm or Spindle to fit. Google: Automotive Tie Rod Reamer and you'll find all sorts of them from automotive suppliers like Summit Racing and Speedway.
  3. Loren

    Tune Up

    Back in the days of point type ignitions I lived in San Diego. The first rain of the season every year was the day I joyfully went to work at the dealership. All the cars that wheezed along all summer finally quit when the moisture got heavy. The tow trucks gathered them in and we had plenty of tune up work. When points went away so did that business. The electronic ignitions would fire the worst caps, rotors, wires and spark plugs. The solution to the owners problem was a no brainer, all new ignition parts. Usually they picked up their car and it ran so much better than they remembered we were "geniuses." Then we wouldn't see them again for at least two years. There was a big housing development to the north and all the houses were built before the code requirement that gas water heaters had to be on a platform 18 inches off the floor. When I'd go home that night there would be a news story about an explosion and fire. The film would show some dazed guy being wheeled to the ambulance with his garage smoking in the background. When the car wouldn't start some folks would attempt to repair their own jalopy. Because it was raining and cold they would close the garage door and somewhere along the line decide to wash some parts in gasoline. BOOM! It happened so many times it was predictable and we just had to laugh. I think the local TV stations sent their camera crews out there waiting for the fireworks because it seemed like they always got there before the fires were put out. I guess I am cynical.
  4. Years ago when I used to pre-run the SCORE off road race courses with a 1980 Scout, I as expected bent the one piece Drag Link. I had been told it was a weak link in the steering so I knew it was coming. The fix was to get an old Scout Tie Rod from a wrecking yard then cut off the threaded ends. To get the adjustment for toe, IHC used tie rod ends with course and fine threads, both right handed. When you twisted the Tie Rod it screwed on one end faster than it came off the other so there was an adjustment available. Then you'd get a tube that fit over the threaded stubs and welded it together. Now you had replaceable ends, a stronger Drag Link that didn't bend and adjustability to center the steering wheel after an alignment or taller springs. The stock Tie Rod Ends were plenty strong and rarely wear out. My guess is the repair cost about $20. And do not worry about tapers. There is an automotive standard for tapers. The only difference is the diameter used. That's why I put IHC tie rod ends in my drag link. If for some reason you can't get matching tapers you can get an automotive tapered reamer and and ream the hole out. This is the charm of owning collector cars.
  5. I found the tube! The only problem I can see is that you have to change the socket from a 7 pin to a 9 pin. The tube is called a 12AU7. It has within its envelope two 6C4 elements. You only have to use one side. Its easy to figure out the pin wiring as you can get a radio schematic on this site then the tube fact sheet online. Vibrators of the mechanical type are not polarity sensitive. Their function is to create "artificial" AC by switching on/off with a polarity change. However, solid state vibrators are very definitely polarity sensitive, so you have to "get it right" the first time. The last piece in the puzzle is the "Vibrator Transformer". The vibrator creates a type of AC which can then be used by the transformer to "step up" the 6 volts to 530 volts to run the vacuum tube heaters. To change from 6.3 volts to 530 volts you have to change the number of windings in the transformer. I haven't found a 12 volt to 530 volt transformer yet but they have to be out there. Otherwise....one could be re-wound or custom made. Its not rocket science. Again you've got to love pain if you DIY it.
  6. Years ago when I was younger and stupider a guy offered me a 1968 SAAB 96 V4 that had sheared off the oil pump drive shaft. Not owning a trailer or a vehicle to tow it, I decided to just drive it home. I put two extra quarts of oil in the crankcase and set off with ZERO oil pressure. The trip was from Lancaster to Burbank, CA just about 100 miles. It made it without a problem! On tear down I expected to replace all the bearings and maybe more. All that was required was a new oil pump driveshaft and a pan gasket! Maybe I was lucky, I don’t know. I’ve since decided it’s not worth the anxiety, besides I have a trailer and a truck now.
  7. There's an EDGY cylinder head on eBay right now. At last look it was up to $960. There was also a Spitfire head. Looking at both of those and a stock head, there doesn't seemed to be much difference. Certainly not $960 worth. The current EDGY heads have the Navarro ledge over the exhaust valve which is intriguing but is it worth $1,400? I used to get into big arguments with my Dad over parts. I tell him "You don't need that and you can spend your money better elsewhere." To which he'd reply, "I don't care what I need, it's what I want that counts!" I was an expert at pushing his buttons so I'd follow that with "Yeah I know if it don't go Chrome it!" Anyway, I suspect that a stock head milled for compression is the most effective way to get a little more compression for the least amount of money. Once I get the cam back I will check the valve clearance at maximum lift, then I know how much it can be safely milled. Knowing that in spite of the fact there is clearance, there is a point of diminishing returns. You can reduce the intake flow on some engines by milling too much. Ed Winfield said that 7.5 to 1 was the max for a Model A Ford. The Chrysler is a much different ball game. The heads have a lot more room around the valves and that 4 3/4 inch stroke gives plenty of time for cylinder filling. Besides that stock iron head appeals to me. Everybody expects an aluminum head engine to go fast, but stock heads are under estimated.
  8. Can't disagree. My training was in racing and one thing you learn is that if you put a gauge in a car it really has to have a critical function. Another thing is the more gauges you need the more marginal the car. The last car I built had no tach, no oil pressure gauge and no temp gauge. Only an idiot light to energize the alternator. The driver (if he's doing his job) hasn't time to be pondering over gauges. Round "steam gauges" are usually turned in place so that the needles all point straight up when things are normal for that reason. On a street car, if it has a gauge, I prefer that it works properly as expected. Most do not. The error of speedometers from the factory is considered "commercially acceptable" with + or - 2 mph (Commercially Acceptable is a General Motors term for "we're not going to fix it"). In fact as a kid I remembered reading magazine road tests which included speedometer error as a test criteria. Knowing what the error is could be helpful, that's why I spent so much time at the speedo shop interrogating the techs. Speedometers are easy to check now days as most GPS units have a speed indicator. Tachometers require a trip to the speedo shop (you'd be shocked to know they operate on a curve and can be off wildly at different RPM. They usually are set accurately for idle and red line, everything else is "relative") Temp gauges can be compared with other known good gauges as with oil pressure gauges. Fuel gauges can be wired up and checked on the bench but that's a lot of trouble and only gets done when you know somethings wrong.
  9. Good job! Function testing before you install is a great idea. I test all my batteries before installing (and after removing) them in a device. I find some devices don't tolerate weak batteries but things like flashlights do quite well. Amp meters are not the most useful of instruments as far as I am concerned. I'd rather have a voltmeter. To test one set up a battery and a load with the amp meter inline. The needle will dip when the load is applied. If it says CHARGE then swap the leads. The meter is polarity sensitive. In operation once the battery is charged and there are no loads the meter will read near zero. That's why I don't care for them as most of the time they tell you very little. An idiot light is more definitive, it's either on or off. But that's found in the next generation of cars.
  10. Parts prices really do vary wildly! Check eBay. Everybody sells water pumps and oil pumps. I've seen prices for the very same part vary 300% on the same eBay page! Conclusion? Buyer seriously beware! You'd be surprised how many parts can be had at the chain stores like NAPA or O'Reilly and some are not only cheaper but of more modern design (seals in particular).
  11. Lol Not too likely.They’d have to stroke it 1/4 inch which is somewhat beyond what is economical. I think the block is being cleaned so they can make one phone call and get all the answers they need to proceed.
  12. I just got back from the machine shop. They looked at my crankshaft and pitched a replacement to me. The idea of welding every journal and the thrust didn’t appeal to them even for the quoted price. When I protested that they didn’t have a core, I was told they got two in today. ? So I am waiting for word on what will happen next. Another piece in the works.
  13. I wondered what that was for! They went to great expense to provide a way to check the stroke on these engines.
  14. Your photo of the dash and the front bumper sure make me miss my '49! That wood grain was so beautiful! I sold the 49 because it had a bad memory for me. It had sat for about a year unused with a bad bearing in the transmission. My Uncle came back from the Air Force with no money in his pocket. So I thought I'd gift him the car. I went out and got a transmission from a wrecking yard and I was under the car installing it when the phone call came that he had had a heart attack and died. After that I had a hard time even looking at that car. Selling it was a bad move on my part. The buyer abused the car and abandoned it. So my emotions are torn two ways. Thanks for taking such good care of your's!
  15. What you are looking for is cubic inches. On these engines the 237, 251, 265 all use the same bore and pistons, the difference is in the stroke. Rather than "artificially" wearing out your block, I'd change the crankshaft and rods. When you start getting bigger bores you also find that the head gaskets wouldn't accommodate overbores much more than .060. A very common crank & rod set will give you 237 cid, cheaply and reliably. If you want more the price and availability reflect the scarcity. A 265 4 3/4 stroke crank and rods takes a mighty wallet and determination. It really is a "no pain no gain" situation! That said, there's a big improvement going from 218 to 237. More stroke, more torque.
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