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Loren

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About Loren

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Profile Information

  • My Project Cars
    1952 Plymouth Suburban

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  • Location
    Dayton, NV
  • Interests
    Antique Cars & Motorcycles

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  1. I love the tractor story! It would have been better if he saw you using it day after day with zero problems and wondered how that could be! The reason I asked this question was to get other folks thoughts on the matter. Thank you all! The engine is fresh and clean in the inside so there is no reason to go backwards on oil. It will have a Positive Crankcase Ventilation kit on it so sludge will not be a problem. Sludge being moisture and acid from combustion blow by. The vacuum placed on the crankcase absorbs the moisture before it can combine with the oil.
  2. I just got a used oil pump pick up and in my examination I noted it had two small holes that looked like they were put in it with an Ice Pick. Chrysler pick ups are supposed to float just below the surface of the oil with a limited up and down travel. Most of the pick up is an air chamber which in this case has been compromised with the holes. The idea being that by floating they would stay out of the gunky crud on the bottom of the oil pan and if the engine ran low on oil it would still pick up oil at the highest possible level. I don't know if this has any benefit with mo
  3. I've bought manifolds on eBay without being really sure if they'd fit the Chrysler. (They usually don't, so I have a couple of extra Plymouth Manifolds) But that's what you have to do to get what you want. However, if that Shanafelt had been a Plymouth, I would have built an engine around it. Those Ford 94 carburetors are an excellent choice! They flow more air than a 97 and are quite a bit cheaper. (My Dad called them Chandler-Groves) I think what you are seeing in my photograph are the bolt holes for the exhaust manifold. Every time I think of Studebakers I remembe
  4. I am all for "period correct hot rods". A Shanafelt Manifold is very special (rare and pricey) and would be as good a reason to retain a 230 as I can think of by itself. COVID has slowed down many projects this year. I dropped off a 265 back in October and got it back the beginning of this month! I sent a camshaft in to be reground in November and got it back last week because nothing had been done. To feed your enthusiasm for a "period correct hot rod" let me tell you of my project. A 1952 Suburban with a Chrysler Industrial 265 cid (25 inch engine) dual Bendix
  5. I am a total contrarian on the issue of brakes and rear axles. When you pull apart a Mopar rear axle the only thing that's old timey are the tapered & keyed axles. You have to remember that's what pretty much every car used before the war and clear into the 1960s. All the bearings are Timkin Tapered Roller Bearings and you can't get much better than that. The seals are old fashioned unless you get modern seals but they have them. For a Plymouth there is an upgrade path for better brakes. Original 10 inch, DeSoto 11 inch or Chrysler 12 inch. Ratios available fo
  6. I bought one of the eBay pullers so that I wouldn't have to borrow my friend's again. Well, first it wouldn't fit. The 5 on 4 1/2 inch bolt pattern was too small for the puller, so I ground the offending part down. Then after beating the thing silly, I got out the hot wrench and repeatedly heated and allowed the hub to cool. At the arm end which fits on to the disc, I noticed it was stretching! So I borrowed my friends old puller and within 5 minutes I had a very stubborn drum off and no broken parts. I am thinking you can't buy a new puller with the heft that the old pull
  7. James was right. I found a set of NOS NAPA Kingpins with the Torrington NB-15 needle bearings for $40 ($52 delivered) on ebay. So all is well. Since the seller did not unwrap the needle bearings I am sure anyone who looked at the photos thought it was an incomplete set. I could see a wrapper which clearly said "Torrington NB-15 bearings" so I pulled the trigger. If you bought your kit from Andy's, they have a black oxide coating on them. I would imagine that could be smoothed down with a Scotchbrite wheel. I don't think I will use the black oxide pins, I'll use
  8. Thanks James There is a kit available from www.fcrcmachine.com which includes a substitute brass bushing for the needle bearing their P/N 30124. I would imagine there should be plenty of new old stock parts available as Chrysler made these cars for years. I have a local source I am going to try before I spend any more time on this. If worse comes to worse I will just turn my own bushings. The fcrcmachine website confirmed all my measurements so it's no big deal.
  9. I am so late to this party! I am just about finished with my 12 inch brake project for my 52 Suburban and I've stumbled on the King Pins. The 50 Chrysler Windsor I got the brakes and spindles off of had Torrington NB-15 upper needle bearings on the king pins. Googling "Torrington NB-15" brings you back to P15-D24.com and the news that Torrington hasn't made that bearing in 40 years! Another site gave me a description of that number: Prefix: NB "Drawn shell Needle bearing, single row of rollers, no inner ring, open end, Non-Standard Size" Oops! My usual s
  10. 16s make it even better as there is more cooling space around the drums. With 15s it is a close fit but they do fit. I am sure you don't plan to haul trailers in the mountains or race the car so you could get by with 15s if you had to (for tire availability). With a disc brake car the bigger the discs the better and when you go bigger you need larger wheels to fit them into. You know large diameter wheels are for styling only, when they still put small discs inside. Bigger discs are also heavier (along with the wheels to accommodate them) so that's where the uns
  11. Hmmm Unsprung weight isn't thought of much when it comes to passenger cars. (and not at all in Pickup trucks judging by the weight of the steel spare vs the aluminum road wheels) There is certainly a little more weight going up and down with the wheels but not as much as a disc brake conversion. It's my opinion the suspension is plenty strong enough to handle the extra weight. Where it might show up is in the action of the shock absorbers. Wheels and tires make up the majority of variables in unsprung weight. A change in brand of tire or size can really change the weight. T
  12. The drums in the photo are 12 inch. I got everything sand blasted and painted (drums and backing plates and spindles). The hardware I wire brushed and then soaked in "Evapo-Rust" solution. I finally got my order of parts from a well known supplier. They kept a record of my car and when I ordered 12 inch brake shoes they called me up to make sure I knew what I was ordering. When I got the box one of the wheel cylinders had fallen out thru a hole and I was sent Plymouth 10 inch shoes! So now I am waiting for the second round. In cleaning the hardware I decided I was going to repla
  13. One small thing that should be checked (if all else fails). The push rod from the pedal to the Master Cylinder has a length adjustment. In the shop manual there is a spec for pedal movement before any hydraulic action occurs. Assuming the pedal return spring is operating as it should, you can check this by looking into the reservoir of the M.C. Push the pedal down by hand and when you release it you should see a jet of fluid coming out of the relief port. No jet and the brakes will stick. Checking the pedal push rod & return spring should be part of a M.C. change.
  14. I have a Lincoln wire welder (a really nice one too) Miller used to be the one to get (I think 225 amps as I recall). It depends on your welding supply shop as to which they recommend. My guys sell both but recommended the Lincoln for a good price at the time I was ready to buy. I've used both and they are superb. Harbor Freight continues to move up market (and up price too). They certainly have the best toolboxes for the money and a new credit deal but for a welder I'd rather have good 'ole American made stuff. That said, the resale prices of used welders is pretty low for
  15. Here's an example of a brass emergency core plug. It's a Dorman product so it has wide availability.
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