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Loren last won the day on September 7

Loren had the most liked content!


About Loren

  • Birthday 10/11/1951

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Gold Beach, Oregon
  • Interests
    All things Internal Combustion
  • My Project Cars
    1952 Plymouth Suburban, 1949 Plymouth Business Coupe


  • Location
    Dayton, NV
  • Interests
    Antique Cars & Motorcycles

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  1. I have to admit I am watching this thread. I am not particularly happy with my new muffler. It seems louder than my first 49 Plymouth. So when some one comes up with a better replacement, I’m in too.
  2. Not sure you can find a new set BUT since most folks want 3.73 or 3.54 R & Ps you should be able to find lots of used 3.9 and 4.1 used cheap! As always a shop manual is a very good investment.
  3. I use a pair of "duck bill" pilers to straighten and pre-load the teeth on the wheel covers. They seem to loose their "bite" on the wheels over time. I do it to keep them on more than stop the walk.
  4. On my 49 Coupe I have a Stromberg. The P.O. said that the mechanic who he bought it from claimed the Stromberg starts easier. It does start very nicely when you drive the car often. Some times when it sits for a while the fuel pump has to refill the carburetor and you need to crank it more. An electric pump or perhaps a rebuild kit in the pump would help. What I have noticed is that Stromberg had a real good replacement business and there are new old stock Strombergs on eBay once every so often, while its hard to find even used B & Bs. I found two NOS matching Strombergs for my Thickstun manifold for a very reasonable $150 each from the same seller, so they are around. For a dual manifold there was never a question which carburetor to use. The Stromberg has the fuel inlet on the side while the B & B has it on the end which is not as easy to deal with. For single use an elbow fitting is in the box and the fuel line does not require bending. ( you do have to loosen the fitting at the pump though to avoid tweaking it ) I have had good service from Mike's Carburetor so I would keep them as a resource and a go to outfit.
  5. One quart extra won't damage an engine. However it might lower your power and fuel economy. There are certain diesel pickup trucks which shall remain nameless, that inject fuel on the exhaust stroke periodically to heat up and clean their trap oxidizer. These engines routinely have fuel washing down into the their crankcases raising the oil to alarming levels. One gallon extra is not unheard of! I once bought a car with a sheared off oil pump drive shaft...it was in Lancaster-Palmdale and since I didn't own a trailer, I had to drive it home to Burbank, CA. 90 miles at 65-70 mph. So I just put in two extra quarts of oil and hoped for the best. I made it without any drama. Pulled the engine and removed the pan and there was nothing wrong except the pump shaft! A new oil pump ( for insurance ) and drive shaft and put it back on the road. The two quarts extra were 50% more oil than it was supposed to have ( 4 vs 6 ) so I figured that was a good ratio. Model A Fords will leak oil if parked on a steep driveway nose up. The only solution is to back in. Model T Fords have no oil pump or "dippers" on their connecting rods so you don't want to park them nose up in a steep driveway and let them idle for extended periods.
  6. You’d have to check the Mopar parts book, which is the simple answer. The Dodge is 4 inches longer than the Plymouth so that makes the question a little more complex.
  7. That big ole canister on the side is in fact a full flow filter, one of the first as a matter of fact. Chrysler wasn't convinced for some time that a full flow filter was a good idea. They thought it might plug up and stop the oil flow. This inspired them to engineer a "second chance device" into the system. It worked to by-pass the filter so that flow would not be reduced. However, the pressure seen on the dash gauge would drop about 20 lbs. It wasn't too long before a special plug was installed to do away with this as a plugged up filter never became a problem. Most spin-on filters have a by-pass valve built into them because the fear persists. On the two industrial engines I have, have the feature that the holes under the filter housing are threaded, making it tempting to install an oil cooler and a remote spin-on filter. It should be noted that the by-pass filter is a 10 micron filter, while a full flow is 30 micron. As far as I know one could plumb in a by-pass filter along with the full flow filter. When it comes to keeping the oil clean the biggest improvement is Positive Crankcase Ventilation. By placing the crankcase under a mild vacuum, any moisture from combustion is removed. Moisture along with acid ( also a product of combustion ) creates sludge. Now you filter it out or you can stop it from forming in the first place with PCV. The additive package in modern oil is designed to counteract the acid ( diesel oil also gets acid in it but it is sulfuric acid while gasoline has hydrochloric acid, that is why each has different oil specs ) So....my theory about the optimal Chrysler 237-251-265 oiling system would be an oil cooler in place of the full flow filter, a spin-on by-pass filter, a PCV system and modern high quality oil of your choice. That seems to cover all the bases.
  8. That’s good to know! My 49 Coupe is rather light and makes the standard second gear seem almost silly. They came with 3.73 final drive gears so I have a 3.54 pumpkin ready to install. My other car is a 52 Suburban, a heavier car. Its no where near the weight of your DeSoto but it is heavier than the Coupe. Perhaps I should stick with the standard gear for it. If you go to eBay and search “1940 Plymouth Transmission Gears” you will find plenty of them. You’ll need the cluster ( which I bought for $90 ) and the second gear ( $50 ) sold by seller fmmpar.
  9. It is safe to say the R-7 is more rare than the R-10. It certainly is more antique than the R-10. The first Mopar R-10 being May of 1952. I am sure it might bolt in but you might want to stay with the R-10 because of the volume of parts still around. I mean that is the safe recommendation.
  10. If you came from the Ford side of this great hobby you may well have heard the term “Zephyr Gears”. The Lincoln Zephyr used a taller 2nd gear and is a very similar idea as the 40 Plymouth gear set. The hot setup for a Model A is a 39 V8 gearbox with Zephyr gears. This gives you a synchro/silent gear set more evenly spaced. The 39 gearbox is like the Plymouth being the last stick shift. What I have done additionally for my Model A is add the “Old School” Studebaker R-10 Overdrive mounted on the torque tube driveshaft. These were built in the 1950s for guys wanting to use their Model As on the highway. This is replacing the S-10 T-5 transmission that I have come to hate so much. For my Plymouths I have the R-10 Overdrive gearbox with the 1940 gear set. In my humble opinion this is far and away better than the S-10 T-5 on several levels, it gives four speeds but because of the freewheel feature you can ( if you desire ) and the Automatic Overdrive avoid using the clutch as much. The gear ratios make more sense and the thing bolts right in. My Coupe came with a 3.73 final drive ratio but I have a 3.54 from a 56 Dodge, I am going to try. So the “Fast second gear” is not some crazy rumor and it has a basis in other car makes.
  11. Mike’s Carburetor may have a 6 volt choke that will fit. In point of fact I am not certain the existing choke wouldn’t work, its just a heater after all. Since I’m not a fan of Webers I can’t speak to their parts situation. I do know that jets, needle valves from 97s can be used on WWs. I put the fancy stainless banjo fittings on a pair of mine. Any Supplier of Ford V8 parts usually has 97 parts & tools. The good ones are reproduced in England now, with bargain ones made in China, so parts are readily available at reasonable prices. When it comes to the WW I can’t think of many car brands that didn’t use them at one time or another. I used them on 91 cid Ford/SAAB V4s and they came from the factory on 318s so they are very adaptable and tunable. I’ve even seen them on Mercedes 450SLs as a replacement for Fuel Injection! I think there are no bad choices between the two in this situation. The car in question is not a race car and good fuel economy tip the balance to the Weber.
  12. Okay my 2 cents worth. The Stromberg does not fit the single barrel air cleaner and the 1955-56 6 cylinders used a vastly different linkage system. The WW is simply a bigger carburetor. As far as tuning parts are concerned they are probably easier to find than the Weber as they are roughly the same as Stromberg 97 stuff. Same jets, same jet wrench and I fitted 97 fittings to a pair of mine. The 230 exhaust manifold has provision for the choke heater. They made a lot of WWs so kits are widely available. On the Weber. It has a progressive linkage as I recall and it might be easier to hook up to the stock single barrel linkage. The barrels are smaller and open first one then both. You will not be over carbureted and very likely get better mileage. So there’s much to consider. Most importantly you have the Weber package and from where I sit it might be the path of least resistance. I favor the Stromberg because I have had so much good luck with them. I personally don’t care for progressive linkage carburetors because they are a compromise in my book. When I stab the throttle I want things to happen. One race car I drove had a Weber and it had a nasty habit of running out of fuel at unpredictable and unfortunate times. My Strombergs never let me down like that. I am all about the path of least resistance. The Stromberg maybe my ideal but if the Weber gets you on the road quickly and easily that’s the way to go. Besides you can always revisit the Stromberg later.
  13. I have an S-10 T-5 in my 31 Model A Ford. The kit that was used was pretty awful but that's another matter. My main complaint is the choice of gear ratios used by GM in the S-10 T-5. They are terrible! The reason the S-10 T-5 is used is the location of the shifter and the fact that it has a mechanical speedometer drive. I know folks have problems finding B-W R-10 Overdrives but you have to be eagle eyed and you will find deals. I bought one on eBay a week ago on a "Buy-it-now" for $250 plus $93 shipping from French Lake Auto Wrecking. French Lake can be Googled and you can contact them directly if you'd like. I have been a heavy advocate for the R-10 over the S-10 T-5 as most readers know. In fact I've been a pain in the neck about them and I apologize ahead of time for repeating myself endlessly. What I like about the R-10: Bolts right in, no adaptors required. No cutting or welding. You don't lose your E-brake You can use the speedometer gear from your old transmission so there's no re-engineering there. If you have the long transmission now, there are no issues. If you have the short wheelbase car you'll need to shorten the drive shaft and lengthen the E-brake cable with a coupler and a piece of rod which you have to thread ( or an All-Thread rod ). Lastly there is the throttle switch and the relay. I have found alternatives to the very high priced reproductions. The wiring is easy and the diagrams are available on this site. The top gear in an S-10 T-5 is a 28% overdrive while the top gear in the R-10 is 30% overdrive. If you still have to have an S-10 T-5 I have one for sale.
  14. A 1/2-20 straight thread it would seem to me would be sealed with an O-ring shoulder to shoulder (with the O-ring groove in the fitting). My first visit would be a Hydraulic Shop. The guys that make up hoses and have all the "AN" fittings. At first it may seem the tank makers did you wrong but you might find they've done you a service. To communicate what you need take a photo of the tank and the line you wish to connect....they may have an idea what the tank maker had in mind.
  15. I was looking at a distributor the other day and it had a cork seal ring under the adjustment collar besides the one in the groove. I have noted on a block of mine there is a drain back hole under the collar. To be leak-free you might put an O-ring there too. when you can’t find an oval or square section O-ring for the groove, it is acceptable to use two O-rings in that position as long as the distributor fits in without forcing it.
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