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Loren

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Loren last won the day on January 20

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About Loren

  • Birthday 10/11/1951

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Female
  • Location
    Gold Beach, Oregon
  • Interests
    All things Internal Combustion
  • My Project Cars
    1952 Plymouth Suburban, 1949 Plymouth Business Coupe

Converted

  • Location
    Dayton, NV
  • Interests
    Antique Cars & Motorcycles

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  • Occupation
    Retired

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  1. When I need a cable I go to my speedometer repair shop. They make custom ones for every purpose. One they could not make was an “Engine Stop” cable for bus that had to be 45 feet long. They ordered it from the manufacturer of the cable materials. If you have the knob you want to use I am sure they can match it up. If nothing else they can re-thread it to the knob. I am picky about cables. Seems like they never want to cooperate. When I replace a control cable I go for the best I can find. An extra few bucks is worth it when you don’t have to fight it every time you use it.
  2. I put Chrysler 12 inch brakes on my 49 Business Coupe and found they ever so slightly bump the stock wheels. That was unexpected as the Chrysler wheels I rejected looked exactly the same as the familiar Plymouth wheels. ( a costly mistake which kept me from driving the car for weeks ) What I finally ended up with are U.S. Wheels p/n 65-5612, these are 6 inches wide vs the stock 4.5 inches. They fit under the fenders and happily don't rub anything with 205/70x15 tires. You will have to drill them for the "Pilot Pin". I had an old drum which had the pilot pin knocked off, so I ground the remainder off and took a hammer and a pin punch and knocked the stub out. Then I used it as a drill guide to drill the wheel. One thing that offended me about these wheels is that they are dependent on the lug bolts to center the wheel ( they are made this way so that they will fit other vehicles which use 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern but with the larger center hole. The lugs fit tightly so they do center properly and wonder of wonders they are made to a very high standard of being true. Apparently the centers can be welded in in either direction, then the lugs are drilled and chamfered. Even though they have a part number these are made to order and that is why they took so long to get. The p/n specifies the back space and everything else except color. Lastly you won't be using your dog dish hub caps. Stock Plymouth accessory wheel covers do fit and unless you've got a real sharp eye you won't notice the wheels are wider. Slow speed steering effort is increased but not enough to worry about and certainly less than my modern pick up which has power steering!
  3. My car has the Mopar 100 series heater which has the pull knob dash control. I got the original heater valve with the car and was told it leaks. What the previous owner replaced the original with was a Ball Valve at the cylinder head. I like being under the hood but I don't care to "dismount" every time I want to change the cabin temperature. So...49 Plymouth heater valves are not on every venders shelf and if you found one it might be a little pricey. Generic valves seem to cover almost all cable controlled heaters. One that I've bought a lot of are the "in-line" type, which have a hose barb on each end. The cable on my heater was long enough for a valve mounted on the head and not much longer, so the in-line valve was out. To keep it a clean installation I found a 90 degree design with pipe threads on one end and a hose barb on the other. Once I got the valve I found it operates very nicely but... and you know there is always a "but".....the cable lever is "OFF" with the cable pulled out and "ON" with the cable pushed in. Not a deal breaker ( for at least 3 months of the year lol ) Next issue, it would sit very close to the head...if you could screw it in but...you can't because the firewall is too close. SO...You need a "Union" Now I know what you are thinking because I thought it too. "I don't want some "cobby" plumbing union under the hood of my car!" Besides just try and describe what a Union is to the average parts counter guy. Kids are smart nowadays and when you think they are looking for a part number they actually consulting Google for a photo of the thing they've never heard of. While standing at the counter I saw the sign that read "We make Hydraulic Hoses" So I asked do you have the fittings for those hoses? Yes most of them. What I ended up with is a 37 degree flare with a 3/8 pipe thread end (male) and a captive nut mating female with a 3/8 pipe thread end (female). It elevates the valve, allows you to position the valve exactly where it needs to go and best of all it is clean. Amazon delivers to my little hide-away free so I use them a lot. Additionally they have photos and descriptions that I value for generic items. The valve is a Four Seasons p/n 74682 $52.78 Spark Plug Wire removed for photo
  4. What you’re describing happened to me with an electric choke. You applied electric current and the spring closed the choke instead of opening it. I fixed it by prying the bi-metal spring off and reversing it on the center shaft. Then I re-installed the electric choke housing 180 degrees from normal. You’d think they’d test these things.
  5. View Advert Two barrel manifold wanted (1956 "Power Pack") The photo is credited on google to this site and I am hoping I won't offend the person who posted it by using it for this ad. These manifolds came with a carburetor I have a lot of experience with so I'd really like to have one for my 49. I would be happy to buy it outright or trade. I have an Offenhouser or a new manufacture Thickstun or an Edmunds dual carburetor manifold to trade if you'd rather. For trades I would gladly pay shipping both directions. If you've got one and you're not using it turn it into something you would use like $$$. Thanks! Loren Johnston Advertiser Loren Date 01/18/2022 Price Category Individual Member Classified Wanted Ad  
  6. Time Left: 23 days and 20 hours

    • WANTED
    • USED

    The photo is credited on google to this site and I am hoping I won't offend the person who posted it by using it for this ad. These manifolds came with a carburetor I have a lot of experience with so I'd really like to have one for my 49. I would be happy to buy it outright or trade. I have an Offenhouser or a new manufacture Thickstun or an Edmunds dual carburetor manifold to trade if you'd rather. For trades I would gladly pay shipping both directions. If you've got one and you're not using it turn it into something you would use like $$$. Thanks! Loren Johnston

    NO VALUE SPECIFIED

  7. I used to make a fair living correcting the same mistakes over and over from a big shop in town. Folks would have this shop replace their clutch but it would last only 10,000 miles and it would slip again. It seems that this shop had a policy of putting thin wave washers under the pressure plate on every clutch job they did. The reason was that they couldn’t always adjust the clutch afterwards and they never bothered to find out why. The cause was a worn out Clutch Fork that would not push the throw out bearing far enough to disengage the clutch or would actually bump the rotating pressure plate. The wave washers made the pressure plate fingers stick out further. However the clamping force of the pressure plate was compromised. I would remove a small plate from the top of the bell housing then turn the engine until a pressure plate bolt came into view. You had to loosen them in two stages then take the bolts out to let the wave washer fall out. 6 bolts, two turns of the engine to get the washers out then two turns to tighten the bolts. From then on the clutch life was normal. I would warn the customer that when they next needed a clutch that fork should be replaced. At the time they were about $23. My clutch jobs also included a rear motor mount if need, which was something nobody else even thought of looking at. The point is if the mechanic doesn’t know what they are doing, they take short cuts. If the repair lasts 90 days they are off the hook. With a old car you have to be very meticulous, do real failure analysis and be willing and able to take it apart again to get it right. Shops won’t do that. They think they can’t afford too. That’s why I do my own work.
  8. Okay From the parts book you will find it with code 10-26-6 which tells you where to look. Once there the part number is 1324-999 I also have photos of the base which has casting numbers.
  9. I just found one on eBay for my 265 project! So they are around. I found filters made by Wix p/n 51062 at Rockauto.com for a reasonable price. This filter is a 25 micron unit like most full flow filters. By-Pass filters are typically 10 microns. (Wix p/n P73 also available at rockauto for a Plymouth) I know of no reason why you could not use both and I intend to do so. One last thing, the O-rings which come with the filter are the flat type not the round O-ring that the Chrysler canister uses. So you might have to hunt for those.
  10. Just wondering: If you can ask for help with a problem and that’s okay and expected, then why is it unacceptable to mention you are looking for a worthless junk part as a set up piece? In this thread the offering is for reference, to expand the knowledge base. I should think that is a noble purpose with no intent for personal gain. I see posts mentioning venders all the time. Some of those venders use this forum’s members to work out how to make their products actually work! I personally find that unacceptable. Commercial gain with no responsibility to document how the product is supposed to be used? You will find post after post of people struggling to work out issues with these products and not one complaint about the lack of documentation from the vender. If it is important to protect the members from the commercialization of the forum, then each and every post that mentions a product from a vender who does not include detailed documentation should include a disclaimer by the moderators of that fact and the fact that members have had problems making that product work. Just sayin’
  11. For reference see "Increasingly Stiff Shifter P17" November 2021 (about page 9) I ran into the "Soft fabric Bushing" thing myself. Every time I drove the car the shifter got harder to move. I isolated the problem to the top bushing/mount of the shifter near the steering wheel. I had no idea it was a fabric bushing. Once I cleaned it up and the shifter rod, I lubed it up Vaseline, end of problem. Of all the lubes you can use most dry out and become like glue. Vaseline seems to stay soft forever. I first encountered its use on seat tracks which could have frozen solid if something else was used. The great thing about it is it's cheap and widely available. And yes painting the shift rod might be a problem.
  12. The 4x4 shops change ring & pinions all the time and they will have plenty of extras. Also there are shops which overhaul truck transmissions and rear axles. I've found they also rebuild car stuff too.
  13. Okay you asked a question, does the timing matter? Yes it does. Away back in the 1970s the manufacturers were dropping compression ratios and retarding the timing like crazy. What they found was that in stop and go traffic the cars were overheating because the timing was too retarded. Retarding the timing causes the exhaust to still be burning when the exhaust valve opens, which increases the engine temp. To prevent overheating some cars ran the vacuum signal from the carburetor through a temp valve on the thermostat housing then on to the vacuum advance chamber. Thus when the engine temperature got to a certain point the valve opened and gave the engine some advance until it cooled down. Savvy mechanics took the valve out of the circuit so the engine had a normally working vacuum advance. Further some manufacturers made distributors with no advance at all! I replaced a worn out Mazda pickup distributor with a Mallory dual point and it was shocking how much better it ran. Too much advance is not productive either and can be destructive. The usual tune instructions are to find a good long hill and make some runs on a hot day. Advance the timing until the engine pings and then back it off 2 degrees and retest. You want it as advanced as you can without pinging. Of course some engines might not ping and then you have to guess. 35 degrees total advance is a good start point. A bad carburetor mixture setting can be compensated with a timing change. The ideal is to have your mixture correct before you play with the timing so you actually reach the optimum fuel/air mixture and the optimum timing and not a compromise.
  14. Well....On my 49 the switch is part of a cable that connects to the wiper motor. I can't imagine it is much different on your 48. To remove the wiper motor you would take the switch out too as it's easier to then remove the cable. My parts book says: code 23-67-188 CONTROL, Windshield Wiper 1941-48 All with Vacuum Wipers P/N 898-522 That should get you close. The code will tell you what section (23) of the parts book to look and the location.
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