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Loren

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About Loren

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    Advanced Member

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  • My Project Cars
    1952 Plymouth Suburban

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  • Location
    Dayton, NV
  • Interests
    Antique Cars & Motorcycles

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  1. I recently finished overhauling a Gemmer (Ingersoll Machine in Canada) steering gear from a 1952-56 F100 and modified to fit a Model A Ford. They're basically the same design. The worm (mounted on the steering wheel shaft) is mounted in tapered roller bearings which are adjusted with gasket shims on the lower cover. If you put too much preload on the bearings the car steers with a lot of effort. Too little and there's slop in the steering. Assuming the steering gear was put together correctly then the top adjustment works very well to take up any wear in the gears. On a 60-70 year old car I would expect to see wear and a sector seal that's dry out and leaked. A good winter project might be to remove it and a have a look at things. I'd be curious to know if new gears and bearings are available. Cars in the early 1950s wandered a little and had big steering wheels to give the driver enough leverage to park them easily. Just watch an old movie and you'll see how much drivers moved the steering wheel normally.
  2. Just my humble opinion but...you might wanted to remove the pressure regulator. A Plymouth 6 doesn't turn high enough RPM to cause a mechanical fuel pump to overwhelm the float. Those regulators have earned a reputation for problems. It is one of those things that just because something is available it doesn't mean it is useful. Like I said it's only an opinion.
  3. Loren

    How old?

    Okay, this is how you tell how old it is: The center drawer is called the Bible drawer. It fitted “The Machinery Handbook” that was current when it was made. I think they are up to the twenty seventh or eight edition. My 22d edition I got in 1984 is about an inch too thick. My guess is late 1940s as you said. Gerstner was the last of the wood toolbox makers still in business. When a friend of mine died I sent his toolbox back to them and they restored it for his widow to use as a jewelry box. If you clean it up you’ll see how carefully they match the grain from side to the lid.....I think they use pieces cut from the same board.
  4. I wish I had known about the factory Bendix-Stromberg WW 2 barrel factory setup years ago. I was using that carb on another car at the time and could not believe how well it worked. Chrysler used these WWs on some of their V8s as well. Some folks love the Stromberg 97, (so much so they are being reproduced). I went to a carburetor guy (years ago) who actually made 97s under license and he put me on to the WW. He said they were much better. I've talked to Tom Langdon about his Weber/Motorcraft progressive linkage carbs and he's pretty positive about them. Drivability is what he's concerned about and progressive linkage carbs almost guarantee you'll be happy. However, my experience with the WW makes me rather positive on them. So my plan is to go with his carbs (cause he's already worked out the kinks) then after I've had some experience with his setup try my WWs and see which I like better. (I think the bases are very close so its an easy swap) His point is that with progressive linkage carbs you are running on two of four barrels most of the time and when you put your foot in it you get all four. Where as two direct linkage two barrel carbs run on four barrels all the time. Obviously economy could suffer and there might be flat spots. In the race car the engine was so small fuel economy was never an issue and I never had a flat spot or hesitation. When we used a Weber the float would hang up (or something) and the engine would die from fuel starvation, a very embarrassing occurrence. If I had the factory 2 barrel I'd stay with it, even over a two carb manifold. If you want to play with the jets in the WW, the jet wrench and the main jets are the same as a 97 which means they are readily available. They made so many of them kits are available too. eBay has NIB carbs for sale as well for about half the price of a new 97. Just my humble opinion.
  5. I love the shape of the Thickstun manifold for a Plymouth! I wish he made them for the Chrysler 25 inch block that would be epic! How long do you figure you'll have to wait for it? Oh and who do you call? A visit to NAPA with the part number I gave you will put them on the page with the long studs I am sure. The Dorman studs are nothing special just available and cheap. At that price you can change them each time you take the manifold off. Just be sure not to screw them in any farther than you have to. On my engine I figure I'll take an average thread depth then make a gauge to prevent the ends from rusting. Too many threads in the water jacket and the ends mushroom with rust and when you go to take them out they snap off. I hate when that happens! The next time I call Tom I'll ask him about the Thickstun Chevy 216 Manifold. I am sure he will have an opinion.
  6. I got my studs from Summitracing.com but I am sure NAPA has them on hand. The Dorman box says 675-070 QTY:10 DBL END STUD They were as I said 79 cents each! When you talk to Tom Landon ask him about an intake manifold as well. In projects like this I go for the path of least resistance and I've almost talked myself into his dual carb 2x2 manifold. He takes an Offenhauser Chevy 216 manifold and cuts the flanges off and welds on the correct ones for the Chrysler. The carburetors are 2 barrel Weber/Motorcraft with progressive linkage. He supplies the 1 to 2 barrel adaptors fit them to the manifold. I am thinking the whole ball of wax would be about $1,000. Old Edmunds or Ellis manifolds have been going for $600 and up on eBay so this is not a bad deal at all. Besides you knew it's going to work as this guy knows what he's doing.
  7. Hi Ed, I like the looks of their self canceling turn signal! It would be easy to add a cruse control switch to the lever. The restoration of old tube radios is becoming a hobby with a wide following (speaking of table top radio). If one cruises the internet you find all sorts of good information. One site I found gave a primer on capacitors and why you need to change them. However, not all need to be changed. Also in the Mopar 812 there are seven different voltage specs for the capacitors. I found out why and that you could boil it down to three. Instead of 100, 200, 400 500, 1000 and 1600 volt capacitors, all you need are 630, 1000 and 1600 volt. The 630 volt are very common and it doesn't change the performance at all. Like most things electronic as time goes by things get cheaper, smaller and more durable. Some of the capacitors in this radio are of the most durable type and changing them would be counter-productive because other components were tuned to them. The cost for the capacitors you need to change is less than $7.00! I decided to change the capacitors myself and install a voltage reduction device. Not my first choice but it will work. When I get the capacitors I'll post some photos of the change out and which ones to change (there are 12).
  8. Well I got the radio and it looks great. The facade is the wrong color of course and scratched. So... I pulled it apart and bead blasted the facade. Happily the scratches didn't go into the metal. I'll send it out for chrome plating next week. Next I called Bob's Radio and TV Service. Once we established what radio I had, we talked about 12 volt conversion. I think he wants to retire as he told me he wanted to pass on my radio. Now if I'd agree to changing over to a modern radio he'd do it. I don't want that and even if I would agree to that, I could certainly do it myself. So now I am looking for another place to convert and restore it. One of the issues is a replacement for the Vibrator Transformer. It steps up the voltage from 6 volts to 530 volts and is one of the key components required to convert to 12 volts. Sometimes one can salvage a 12 volt transformer from the 1956-58 era which will work but they are hard to find.
  9. Besides a "Blind hole puller" you can use a big old tap. Just thread it in and then pull it out. Good for generator bushings too. Some guys get an old rusty tap and weld a big nut on the end so they can use a slap hammer or just lever it.
  10. I actually found the Photofacts on this site and printed it. Then I went looking for data on vacuum tubes. I was able to find 12 volt versions for all of them accept one. The missing tube does not have a direct cross over but there is a 12 volt tube which has two elements exactly like the 6 volt version inside its envelope. You have to change the socket from 7 pin to 9 pin and use half its elements. The vibrator and the vibrator transformer need to be changed as well. Taking all that into consideration plus the fact I'd like some modern features like Bluetooth and SirrusXM satellite radio, I've decided to let an expert do the work. I mean I am no electronics genius but given enough time and money I know I could figure it out, but why when there are guys who do this everyday out there? The 7 button radio should be here Wednesday and then I'll find out more and report.
  11. You are so right! On an old car (especially air cooled) uses about 12 pounds of air to every pound of fuel. And as you say a surprising amount of water is produced. Water from the humidity of the air plus the chemical reaction from combustion. The optimal fuel air ratio for combustion (with cat converters) is about 13.5 to 1 which is on the lean side for performance and way too lean for air cooled engines (a rich mixture displaces air which results in a cooler running engine). I don't know about you but I can not visualize 12 pounds of air! Gasoline is a different matter, 6.3 pounds per gallon. That fuel air ratio is pretty much the same at idle or highway speed. Now diesel works very differently. On a diesel you throttle the fuel not the air. A diesel at idle only needs enough fuel to tick the engine over. While a gasoline engine uses a 12 to 1 ratio at idle a diesel uses 144 to 1 ratio! So what does this have to do with Plymouths and radiators? Not much, I just got carried away. Although Chrysler experimented with diesel powered Plymouths and I know they had radiators. You know a 4bt Cummins will fit in anything that had a flathead 6.
  12. The Radiator Shop is an old car owner's best friend! They can clean and repair a radiator with much less fuss than it's worth to DIY. From cleaning out old gas tanks to putting more efficient thicker cores in your radiator, it's good to know the best radiator shop. The Plymouths I've owned have all had honeycomb radiators, which seem to last forever. I would try to have one repaired by experts before replacing with something else. And if it was beyond repair, I'd find a used one before re-coring with the tube and fin type.
  13. I decided to be a sport and "step up" to the seven button Mopar 812 radio. I've been looking at one on eBay for some time. I've also decided to give Dan Steele a call and see what my options are. As I said I like tube radios and there are some songs from my era that just don't sound right on modern equipment. For an example, The Grassroots "Live for today" sounds way different.
  14. Coolant will also give you a white smoke in the exhaust. That's the glycol burning. If the car has power brakes a white smoke cloud following you could also be a leaking Master Cylinder. Brake fluid is made of glycol too. You can get a quick test kit at NAPA which has a tool that fits in the radiator neck and holds a blue test fluid. If you have a blown head gasket a one way valve allows gases from the radiator to bubble thru the fluid turning it golden when combustion gas is present.
  15. In the good old days your upholster made their own. There is a sewing machine foot which funneled a cord of the appropriate size and a strip of the desired material under the needle and sewed them together. Of course you could buy a roll already made but if you had a unique color you made it yourself. You are limited in length to the width of the material but I have seen two strips sewn together (on a 45) to make a longer continuous piece. Most Upholstery shops use a machine like a Consew 206rb which is a copy of a Singer so the feet are plentiful. On eBay a "Welting/Cording foot" is $9 or $10. You will need to know the size of the cording you're going to use. The cord is available at Joanne's in most cities (and you might find the foot there as well).
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