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Dave72dt last won the day on September 19 2016

Dave72dt had the most liked content!


About Dave72dt

  • Rank
    Zen Master, I breathe vintage mopar!

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  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Southwest WI
  • My Project Cars
    1951 B3B custom high side pkp<br />
    1972 Mustang Mach I<br />
    1984 Bronco II custom roadster pkp w/351W


  • Location
    SW Wisconsin
  • Interests
    semi retired

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  1. ) went a few years ago. The sheer numbers of cars almost mandates a 2 day visit. Good walking shoes, something to cover the head, sun block and be wary of dehydration. Once again, probably working this weekend.. It seems just about everyone here at the store wants this weekend off so the old guy gets to work.
  2. How were the rings staggered on the pistons you took out? Were they the same on all the pistons? Does your reference source explain why no ring gaps over the pins? As long as you're getting info from the manufacturer, you should probably ask them about the thrust side of the piston. Without knowing that, you could end up with all the ring gaps on the wrong side of the piston.
  3. I'm surprised you haven't had more response. Other than not having them all lined up in a row, there's a lot of personal preferences involved in an engine build including ring stagger. Mine on a 4 ring would be oil ring gap over the pin hole and 180 degrees for the next, 180 again for the next, another 180 and one more for the top ring. On a 3 ring piston I still start with the oil ring over the pin and the top 2 rings 120 degrees apart from each other and the oil ring gap. Right way, wrong. way, who knows? someone else does them differently, chime in. Once again, you can contact tech su
  4. If the way you have them laid out is exactly the way they came out of the box, I'd saw the 3 piece oil ring goes in the bottom groove. However, with your part number in hand, call the manufacturer's tech line. They can tell you the order they should be in. Mahle marks the tabs of the box, others place them in order in the package.
  5. . I spent the day at work and came home to a driveway full of visitors. Best I could do was take a glance at the front fender I've been working on.
  6. I don't think you want that tube ALL the way to the bottom where it could suck up any moisture or crud that might be floating around in there. Close to the bottom so you don't loose tank capacity but NOT ON the bottom.
  7. Check your wheelbase. I suspect you have a 3/4 ton chassis. The grille section and doors would indicate a 51-53. If the box in the background goes with the truck and fits the frame, how long is it and what type of fenders?
  8. So, what you're suggesting is the first set of std bearings were out of spec and therefore defective? Did you use the same stick of Plastigauge when measuring the second set of std brgs that you used for the first set?
  9. I have to ask. What was the difference between the first set of standard bearings you thought were going to be too loose and the second set of standard brgs? Yes, rest the valves hot and retorque the head.
  10. Yes, power at the coil with the ignition on. You may or may not have power on both small posts of the coil depending on points being open or closed. A simple test light works well for testing the ign system. I've hooked the clip of the test light to the coil, dist side and stuck the point of the light into the battery ground clamp when alone and turned the engine over watching for the light to flash on and off( it's supposed to) so you don't necessarily need someone else around to help. hIf it doesn't, there's a current post here in this specific forum "No spark" where I've detailed a sim
  11. I've used it some. Factories use it quite a bit. A lot of roof panels are now glued on, some door hinges replacement door skins, etc., and most incorporate a few spot welds as well now. I've seen it used on rocker panels, especially the slip-ons. I've used it on a couple of wheel arches, rocker panels and cab corners. When using, some kind of backer is needed, either flanging or creating what appears to be a flange for the new panel to fit flush and panels must be clamped tight along the entire seam. The glue is flammable so caution when spot welding or filling screw holes is needed. I
  12. Detach the small wire going from the coil to the distributor. Do you have ;power coming out of that coil terminal with the key on? That takes anything downstream of the coil out of the equation. If you do have power, replace that wire onto the coil and remove it at the distributor end and retest at the end of the wire for power. If you have power there, reattach the wire and disconnect the points and condenser. Retest where the power comes through the distributor case. Next is the points with some paper between the point contacts to insulate them. Power? At any point where you don't hav
  13. I just started reading this thread and I assume the dist. is still out of the engine. Now would be a good time to check for voltage coming out of the coil and or the lead form the coil to the dis. if it hasn't been done already. A simple, cheap test light will work just fine. Know how far you actually have power one connection at a time. Once inside the dist., it's one piece at a time. Slide a piece of paper between the points so they aren't grounded.
  14. They probably won't have that gasket in stock. It's not a commonly sold item and it won't matter which box store you prefer. Make a phone call and have them check inventory. If it's not on hand, it'll save you a trip.
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