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Dave72dt

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Dave72dt last won the day on September 19 2016

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About Dave72dt

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    Zen Master, I breathe vintage mopar!

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    Not Telling
  • Location
    Southwest WI
  • My Project Cars
    1951 B3B custom high side pkp<br />
    1972 Mustang Mach I<br />
    1984 Bronco II custom roadster pkp w/351W

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  • Location
    SW Wisconsin
  • Interests
    semi retired

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  1. Adding the hardener to those machinery enamels helps reduce color fade. I've seen bright reds fade to a flat pink color in two years time.
  2. Oil based primers do take additional time for the solvents to evap out and the fact that you rolled it on means it's a fairly thick application which means even more time. Give it a couple of days and I think you'll find less clogging of the paper as the primer hardens up. That doesn't mean it's going to sand any easier though, just less clogging. Etch primers and epoxy primers both use an activator and are usually followed up with some kind of polyester primer.
  3. I've had good luck with the washer/plug weld method also and most of the time don't weld a nut to the washer. Most of the time they will come loose with a good pair of slip joint pliers. They give me a better feel of how much and how easily the broken bolt/stud is moving and when I need to reverse direction. Using a smaller washer and giving it a bit of concave will get you a little better access and weld to those broken bolts that are slightly below the surface. If you use washers that don't have that shiny plating, they'll also weld better.
  4. General theory is the crankshaft and pinion shaft run in parallel lines so a 2.5 down on the trans would mean a 2.5 up on the pinion. U joints require some angle to work properly so with the offset engine and centered diff, there is some built in. As far as the engine angle is concerned, bear in mind our roads are not flat. We go up and down grades so the carb angle consistently changes and as you add the box and front sheet metal, that angle may change again. Doing a search for pinion angle should bring up all kinds of info including diagrams of correct and incorrect settings.
  5. Is the requirement 8.8 or 8? 8.8 would be a metric bolt and I was told years ago to be the equivalent of a SAE grade 5 and a 10.9 metric to be equivalent of SAE grade 8. Perhaps one of our resident engineers can clarify .
  6. Nice, nice , nice! I've been following this build from the start and enjoying every bit of it.
  7. GM used to do the overlap frame boxing on passenger car frames for a number of years , and for the most part was fairly unattractive, even if functional. No, I haven't seen it done on any of our truck frames personally. My own thoughts are when you stiffen the frame, you have to take a serious look at the suspension. Leaf springs on all four corners doesn't allow for much articulation so the frame has to be able to flex. With a stiffer frame the articulation would need to come from the suspension itself to avoid creating stress points in the frame. My frame is fully boxed and much, much
  8. I used Paul Horton's welderseries.com MII ifs on my truck. It's a weld in setup that let's you set your own ride height. You still need to measure carefully and some of the pieces will need to be trimmed to fit the chassis but the geometry is already calculated and built in if you measure correctly. I've seen references to Fatman's having a kit but I don't know if it lets you alter ride height. Assembly of the parts was not difficult, welding was straightforward and considerably less cost than prefabbed kits.
  9. most of the places that repair RV's , also sell them. I'd suggest having them sell it for you on a commission basis.
  10. You should be able to check continuity of the socket with a bulb in place to see if the socket base is used as a ground and it does appear to use a 3 prong flasher. I suspect a metal backed cluster which would become the immediate ground for those bulbs as well as other panel lights. I think you need to chase the ( x ) feed on the flasher to see if it does indeed become the ground for the flasher.
  11. I don't think it should click until the key is turned to on. Do some research on how that regulator works. I think you'll find your battery has been draining especially if you've found it necessary to continually disconnect the battery. It may be as simple as the regulator wired incorrectly also. The BAT terminal is the only terminal that should be hot with the key off.
  12. Is it possible to post a pic of the holes and one of the original bolts?
  13. Yes, either can be done but not easily and not recommended. This is a major body modification that can easily ruin 2, repeat, 2 cabs or 1 truck. Swapping cabs might be more practical. Unless you are well experienced in sheet metal welding and weld distortion control, management and repair or have an extra 3 or 4G to spend on having it done, I'd leave it as is. You'd lose the originality of your truck as well the patina since the cut and weld would show. Get your engine and trans swap done first, the Empi and the suburban before embarking on this adventure. It'll give you time to think th
  14. IF the originals have a round hole, serrated shoulder bolts would have been used. I'd bet most, if not all replacement strip kits are punched with a square hole and up north where I'm at, most original strips are in dire need of replacement and few may have been saved for reference. I think Mar-K had a stainless cover for the side rail strip that needed to be drilled and had some serrated bolts available for install. Without a backer underneath on the strips themselves, I'd worry that tightening serrated bolts down might distort the strip. I think I'd try pressing them into the strip befor
  15. I use both. Large panels or multiple large panels get the gun. I've used the cans on small pieces, like brackets, individual parts prior to install. One of the problems with the cans on large panels is the nozzle on the cans themselves. Most spray in a round pattern instead of the flat pattern from a gun. I've done larger pieces with a can too as long as I can get the paint on the entire piece wet. Harbor Freight guns will spray rustoleum just fine when properly reduced and don't cost that much. Flash time with that setup is slow enough you can do multiple panels even while waiting for a
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