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Dave72dt

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Dave72dt last won the day on September 19 2016

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About Dave72dt

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    Zen Master, I breathe vintage mopar!

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    Not Telling
  • Location
    Southwest WI
  • My Project Cars
    1951 B3B custom high side pkp<br />
    1972 Mustang Mach I<br />
    1984 Bronco II custom roadster pkp w/351W

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  • Location
    SW Wisconsin
  • Interests
    semi retired

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  1. Most of the diagnostics could be done with handhelds but that 'scope could show you things the handhelds couldn't. great when you had a real "problem child".
  2. We see eagles here so often most people take them for granted. Most of the time just seen soaring on the currents, adults and juveniles alike but can be seen occasionally on the ground and sometimes fairly close up. It's hard to realize how big they are until you see one close up. I never have a camera with me either when I see them close up.
  3. I think you'll find the slight angle on the gas pedal is a matter of comfort when driving. As an experiment, try sitting in your favorite chair and keep your right foot vertical, for say, about 15 minutes. My right foot, at least, feels more relaxed and naturally positioned with a slight angle to the right as opposed to vertical.
  4. It's probably balanced enough. I'd like to see an additional layer of support for the original pulley in the hub area. Once you removed the outer original pulley half, what remains is only half as strong as a safeguard against flex and the leverage the new double pulley has from belt tension is increased
  5. Same stuff I've used for years. There's other assembly lubes available but for an engine that may get installed and not started immediately after assembly, I find that the Lubriplate stays in place better than the more liquid types. I even put a swipe of it in cylinder bores before installing oil soaked pistons. I think it helps retain that oil in the cylinders before initial startup. By the time the initial break-in time is done, it's all melted out and you haven't scored up the cyl walls with dry starts. That's my theory, anyway, for what it's worth.
  6. With the bad journal down and the spark plug for that cylinder out, you can remove the rod cap, push the piston and rod up and probably get a micrometer in for measuring. Check the nearest main brg for wear also. That's where that rod gets it's oil supply. If the crank checks out OK (unlikely, sorry !), you can pull the head and remove piston and rod and have the rod refurbished. Don't be afraid to check the other rod bearings as well. Since that truck will get handed down to family eventually, repair it correctly so you don't pass a problem along with it.
  7. Throw out brg will not cause your problem unless it's improperly adjusted. We're really trying to determine if the clutch disc is actually releasing and not hanging up on the splines or rubbing against the flywheel or pressure plate enough to cause the trans input shaft to turn. You may need a helper to verify the disc is released. You don't need to have it running to do that. Jack up one rear wheel, use a jack stand, place the trans in gear and have someone push the pedal down, try to turn the wheel that's jacked up. If you can, it's probably released and you can check the trans fluid lev
  8. Is it possible the disc was installed backwards? How long has it been since installed and what was the condition of the flywheel and pressure plate surfaces? Clutch pedal free play is set at ? and pedal travel feel is consistent?
  9. Site #1 would be the preferred location. Even with bags you'll want to retain the sway bar. Have you checked Shockwaves (bags with shocks built in)? What's the goal with the bags? Up, down, ride quality?
  10. There should be two check valves in the pump that can be removed as well as the push rod that operates the pump. If the check valves are correctly installed and are not plugged, they should not impair the flow of fuel being pushed by an electric pump. They are very low pressure valves and broken or rusty springs or a little dirt or rust can prevent them from functioning properly.
  11. Adding the hardener to those machinery enamels helps reduce color fade. I've seen bright reds fade to a flat pink color in two years time.
  12. Oil based primers do take additional time for the solvents to evap out and the fact that you rolled it on means it's a fairly thick application which means even more time. Give it a couple of days and I think you'll find less clogging of the paper as the primer hardens up. That doesn't mean it's going to sand any easier though, just less clogging. Etch primers and epoxy primers both use an activator and are usually followed up with some kind of polyester primer.
  13. I've had good luck with the washer/plug weld method also and most of the time don't weld a nut to the washer. Most of the time they will come loose with a good pair of slip joint pliers. They give me a better feel of how much and how easily the broken bolt/stud is moving and when I need to reverse direction. Using a smaller washer and giving it a bit of concave will get you a little better access and weld to those broken bolts that are slightly below the surface. If you use washers that don't have that shiny plating, they'll also weld better.
  14. General theory is the crankshaft and pinion shaft run in parallel lines so a 2.5 down on the trans would mean a 2.5 up on the pinion. U joints require some angle to work properly so with the offset engine and centered diff, there is some built in. As far as the engine angle is concerned, bear in mind our roads are not flat. We go up and down grades so the carb angle consistently changes and as you add the box and front sheet metal, that angle may change again. Doing a search for pinion angle should bring up all kinds of info including diagrams of correct and incorrect settings.
  15. Is the requirement 8.8 or 8? 8.8 would be a metric bolt and I was told years ago to be the equivalent of a SAE grade 5 and a 10.9 metric to be equivalent of SAE grade 8. Perhaps one of our resident engineers can clarify .
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