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Dave72dt

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Dave72dt last won the day on September 19 2016

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About Dave72dt

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    Zen Master, I breathe vintage mopar!

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  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Southwest WI
  • My Project Cars
    1951 B3B custom high side pkp<br />
    1972 Mustang Mach I<br />
    1984 Bronco II custom roadster pkp w/351W

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  • Location
    SW Wisconsin
  • Interests
    semi retired

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  1. Is it possible to post a pic of the holes and one of the original bolts?
  2. Yes, either can be done but not easily and not recommended. This is a major body modification that can easily ruin 2, repeat, 2 cabs or 1 truck. Swapping cabs might be more practical. Unless you are well experienced in sheet metal welding and weld distortion control, management and repair or have an extra 3 or 4G to spend on having it done, I'd leave it as is. You'd lose the originality of your truck as well the patina since the cut and weld would show. Get your engine and trans swap done first, the Empi and the suburban before embarking on this adventure. It'll give you time to think this over carefully.
  3. IF the originals have a round hole, serrated shoulder bolts would have been used. I'd bet most, if not all replacement strip kits are punched with a square hole and up north where I'm at, most original strips are in dire need of replacement and few may have been saved for reference. I think Mar-K had a stainless cover for the side rail strip that needed to be drilled and had some serrated bolts available for install. Without a backer underneath on the strips themselves, I'd worry that tightening serrated bolts down might distort the strip. I think I'd try pressing them into the strip before installing the strips in the wood. Round holes can be converted to square if need be but having round holes does sound odd. It's no more work to punch a square hole than it is a round hole in the manufacturing process.
  4. I use both. Large panels or multiple large panels get the gun. I've used the cans on small pieces, like brackets, individual parts prior to install. One of the problems with the cans on large panels is the nozzle on the cans themselves. Most spray in a round pattern instead of the flat pattern from a gun. I've done larger pieces with a can too as long as I can get the paint on the entire piece wet. Harbor Freight guns will spray rustoleum just fine when properly reduced and don't cost that much. Flash time with that setup is slow enough you can do multiple panels even while waiting for a smaller compressor to build pressure back up. Really easy to get runs with a can also so you much exercise patience when using them.
  5. Easiest way I know is to look at the rear fenders. The flat surfaced round ones are 3's and earlier, the long rectangular ones or 4's and were used for quite a few years since then.
  6. I'd definitely go through the cylinders, pull the shoes off and clean up the backing plates and make sure the adjusters work. I'd like to see new lines run and the master rebuilt as well. Shoes and drums should be OK if as stated. I'd take some good, clear photos of each after each corner is done for documentation when selling.
  7. I've never made it out there. Thought I could join in via virtual so I pulled the beast out into the sunlight today, placed the box on the frame and snapped a couple pics. haven't had a chance to get it back in the garage since FEF showed up but I've been busy. Number 8 since he left is getting fairly close to being finished and since it's my own, I'm not on a time schedule. It's literally been a ground up build.
  8. Dave72dt

    Wheels

    I guess it's a matter of how you want to interpret the post. I can see it both ways and if looking at it as a "wanted" post, I thought Todd was polite and courteous by leaving it posted. If as a "question", I'd suggest the poster look to the want ads section and contact all the posters, as they may have spares in their collection of parts, and post an ad there specifically for wheels. Other options should of course, include ebay, craigslist, salvage yards, etc. Wheels he has been able to find that do not have the clips might be modified with the clips from the wheels he does have or obtain new clips and install them. Does Stockton make replacement wheels w/clips? Someone makes clips. I've seen them at one of our store's customer's business. As these types of problem. As more and more of these old classics get turned into shredded scraps, we're going to have to get more creative in solving issues
  9. I don't think you'll have much trouble figuring out how to use it. Basically compressing the plate until it locks down against the spacers, clamping the plate down, and adjust the fingers. We had something similar to use when doing Deutz-Allis dual clutchs. These had to be dismantled to access the main drive clutch and then reset using the tool. A couple of run-throughs and you'll have it down. A spring tester similar to what's used on valve springs should go along with this tool to do the job correctly. Plate springs can get weak and/or break and give you inconsistent plate pressure.
  10. Unforgiven Gran Torino The Horse Whisperer An Unfinished Life Down Periscope Thanks Tim, for correcting me. That's the one I meant.
  11. Dave72dt

    Seat mystery

    I used Mustang buckets in my B3b and when positioning them I set them on blocks, adjusting height and base angle to where I was most comfortable and then built my own risers. I'd suggest doing the same with your Durango seat combo. Move it around, up, down, or sideways to where it's most comfortable for you as the driver. You may find the 4 1/2 inch per side difference won't matter. If it's offset more to the driver's side and that's where it fits you best, you may have to adjust the center width to even things out.
  12. That notch in the pad has to straddle the caliper. Once that's in, the other side should drop right in. The only other thing that might hold it up is the slides on the caliper itself that may need to be pushed in to clear the bracket. You got the pads to go over the rotor in that pic so that indicates the piston is retracted enough. Check your inner pad to make sure the notches and tabs are aligned with the outer pad. I'm pretty sure those pads are specific to left side or right side and might even be marked, ie., left outer and right inner won't work.
  13. From the one pic you show of the pads and caliper assembled to the rotor, try starting with the pad side with the full notch first onto the bracket then rolling the other side down. You'll notice the pads have a full notch on one side and only one tab on the other. You started with the wrong side over the bracket.
  14. Since pipe threads are tapered and depending on how deep your current valve is set into the block, you may be able to run a pipe tap in and create a few more partial threads. If your valve is bottomed out, you may need to consider drilling and tapping for the next larger size.
  15. I wouldn't choose to do that myself. A drum brake setup would have a different residual valve in the system … or at least used to, than a disc/disc. Years ago when masters were actually commonly rebuilt, replacement residual check valves would come with the rebuild kit. You'd pull the old ones out and install new fresh check valves in the master as well as the parts commonly associated with a rebuild kit. Maybe technology has changed or it's been moved to the combo valve. The design of the drum brakes shoe retraction almost dictates a residual to keep them at their most responsive without dragging on the drums. I know it's been done and will say it doesn't matter. I'd check the after market suppliers advertisements and note they differentiate between disc/disc and disc/drum masters. I'd guess there's a reason. On your disc conversion for the front, I'm guessing the hubs are commercially available and not a one-off product. Maybe it would be possible to machine the hub outer bearing race a bit further into the hub, far enough to use that washer at full thickness and the nut with the castle correctly installed.
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