Dave72dt

Have you tried searching by the bulb number?

My apologies. I misread hook it up as look it up. Find a vacuum fitting on the intake manifold. The vacuum line for the distributor advance may work. An air flow meter to balance the carbs might do you more good.

Harbor Feight.com use their search button for "vacuum gauge" Time to be proactive. Almost every store, especially nation wide has an internet connection for sales. I'm not going to look one up for you and post pics or links.

8-32, 10-32 and 10-24 are all common sizes. grab 3 or 4 of each and crawl under the dash.

Different sealers for different applications. Since you have gaps to fill, a caulking type sealer be may preferable to a brush on. The Dynatron I mentioned is about half the cost of 3m's urethane sealer. Is it as good as? Don't know. Other companies make good product also. Use what's available locally. That makes it easy to get more if you need it. If it has date codes, get the freshest. Some of them have expiration dates.

You might want to look at a 2 part self leveling sealer used on modern cars in the roof channel where they fasten the roof to the sides of the car. Fusor is a name that comes to mind.

The last I used was 3m's Dynatron in a caulk tube. It's been in several of my projects for a number of years without issues.

Probably swedged a bit right at the top. Put some heat on the top of the shaft and try again.

You may want to add a storage box for your ratchet straps and incorporate your fuel fill somehow with it. Most of the pickup to flat bed conversions around here ( rusted out boxes ) make the fuel fill area look like an afterthought. Ill assume a headache rack is also in the plans.

I seem to recall the strobe balancer we had at the tire shop I worked at 50 years ago could only be plugged in at one outlet and was only used for the balancer. Very heavy cord. I suspect it ran on 240 and the strobe may have been 110. Most of the car and light truck tires were bubble balanced only back then and the strobe brought out only when an on the car balance was needed. Occasionally semis, school buses would also need balancing and would have to be done on the vehicle. Those tires took a lot to get them up to speed so I don't think a 110 motor would have had enough. Cement trucks and logging trucks with the big flotation 22.5s would have to be done in stages because of all the mass it was trying to get moving. Only a couple of us in the crew did those. My story doesn't help your wiring dilemma. The motor may have started up on 110 and switched over as it came up to speed and I can't recall if a capacitor was hanging on it either.

So far no one has bothered to answer the original question of how long and the thread pitch of the screws that hold the amp gauge to the dash plate. From what I can see from the pics posted the screws do not need to be very long, 1/4 to 3/8" should work, thread pitch may be 10-32 ( guessing ! ). Since they screw directly into the dash plate and the panel lights ground through the same plate I see no reason for the cupped washers unless it's to keep the amp gauge wires from maybe contacting them when installed. The big posts on the amp meter obviously need to be insulted from the plate. That would be a direct to ground short if they were not. I see now that Dodgeb4ya had made a guess to size and YoungEd did a physical check on his P15 as well as Andyd. Maybe OP will tell us what actually fit.

Camera angle may be part of it. Last pic shows the bed rails just past the width of the duals. That lets you keep the bed height a bit lower and still have room for axle movement than if the rails were even with the duals.

Start by looking for spot welds on the good parts. I doubt the channels were stamped with the rear quarters in one piece. You may be able to remove them and transfer them over. You may have to take part of the rear quarter with the channels if the metal on the good body isn't solid enough for good welds. Before you cut anything , figure out how far back you have to go to get to good metal on the good body and then leave extra material on the donor parts. Reference marks and measurements.

trunk weatherstrip channel, I doubt they're remanned, take a look at "Fitzee's Fabrication" Youtube channel. He does a bunch of videos on making replacement panels/parts from scratch with simple tools.

You may have to make your own, maybe a cardboard template to determine notch placement and size. Access to two of the three notches should work to turn it.