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Dave72dt

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Dave72dt last won the day on September 19 2016

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About Dave72dt

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    Zen Master, I breathe vintage mopar!

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  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Southwest WI
  • My Project Cars
    1951 B3B custom high side pkp<br />
    1972 Mustang Mach I<br />
    1984 Bronco II custom roadster pkp w/351W

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  • Location
    SW Wisconsin
  • Interests
    semi retired

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  1. Those rear fenders look pretty rough. You may want to consider getting them blasted. By the time you get the remaining paint sanded down level with the rusty spots, it'll be stripped bare and you'll still need to deal with the rust itself. The bigger portions of the body look like they could be feathered out.
  2. I boxed the frame and added a M II style front suspension, front mounted power R & P disc brakes, coil over shocks. Doing it this way, all the sheet metal bolts right back on, stock wheel track width can be maintained and I can set the ride height where I want it. Maybe it's more a matter of where you want or are comfortable doing your fabrication. Most of these frame swaps are also going to have some sort of powertrain swap involved as well. I can't imagine too many of these S10 swaps will have the factory flathead and trans going back in and if you want Mopar powertrain, you probably won't find a lot of aftermarket support for using it in a S10 chassis.
  3. given the age of that thing, probably an enamel. If you're not stripping the panel or working on rust spots, I'd stay away from the flap wheel and continue with the 120. The flap wheel is way to aggressive for smoothing existing paint. The 120 should give enough tooth for a primer or sealer to bite into followed by a couple coats of filler primer that can be blocked and prepped for color
  4. Yes, once you determine exactly where the original hole was supposed to be.. Often you can weld on both sides and fill in some of the slot that was worn into it and dress the weld down
  5. I've made a few big, thick washers out of plate steel by using a hole saw to make the outer circumference and then drilling the existing centering hole to size after.
  6. My father used to convert weak mags over to a conventional coil. He didn't share with me exactly how he did it but if you have battery, starter and gen on it, it's doable. It can still be done if have a hand start and can mount a battery. It'll just need to be recharged on a regular basis.
  7. I consider my truck full custom and there's a few pics floating around the forum and some other trucks as well. Chopped 3 5/8 imches, frenched headlights, custom grill, lowered, nosed, custom turn signals, front and rear, shaved, smoothed firewall, bearclaw latches, IFS, V8 and auto trans, bucket seats, custom dash, etc. It's not completed and bodywork has only been done on the box. Haven't done anything with it for a couple years except for the box but I'll get back on it after the current project is out the door. You can see some of the chop in my sign on pic.
  8. You might take a look at older school busses. They always seemed to have a pretty utilitarian look
  9. I think the gap on the plugs used to be .025. Take a good look at the magneto. It has a set of points and the spring for the impulse can get weak and/or break, as well as cracks in the coil. Finding anyone who can test or repair a mag could be a difficult search but there has to be some collectors out there that can help.
  10. Check out Eastwood's Project Pilehouse for a S10 based truck. You can get a reasonably good representation of how these bodies fit on a S10.
  11. If you're building the fuel line out of the cupro-nickel brake line, it's also available in 25' coils. You will have to install fittings and flare the ends.
  12. I've quit looking for, and at potential projects a long time ago. If I get current projects done, I can look at acquiring another. It'll probably take another six months to complete the current project although it is getting down to some of the more fiddly bits. I'm down to a few bits of brake work, exhaust, transmission linkage, electronics and line brackets, wiring and interior, glass install.
  13. I don't know about MAGOO but it's looks questionable to me. Too nice of a car to be listing it no reserve or without a buy it now and I guarantee you can't build one for that. That's a frame off, rotisserie build from the looks of it and that 7k bid won't even begin to touch the labor invested. That looks like a car presented by consignment dealer with initial pic of the car on a rotary display. On.ly feedback is as a buyer, none as a seller. If it's legit, it's a great deal but I didn't see any pics of the interior, if it's even there. Big dollars if it isn't. Ask if you can inspect it in person before placing a bid. You don't have to tell him how far away you are.
  14. MapQuest places it 3600 miles and 62 driving hours away. About 2500 miles closer would make it very tempting. I don't know where I'd put it or when I could work on it but I'd sure like to have it. Oh well (sigh).
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