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Dave72dt last won the day on February 5

Dave72dt had the most liked content!


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Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Southwest WI
  • My Project Cars
    1951 B3B custom high side pkp<br />
    1972 Mustang Mach I<br />
    1984 Bronco II custom roadster pkp w/351W


  • Location
    SW Wisconsin
  • Interests
    semi retired

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  • Occupation
    Ag implement business owner

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  1. I'm on my 3rd scanner, an Innova 5510 model, basically for its ABS features and some graphing capabilities. My previous scanners are still working, the first a basic code read and erase unit, the second had some live data but no ABS. I handed one off to a son and the second to an old work buddy. The more features the more they cost. My latest was in the $ 200 range several years ago, will read ABS but will not separate wheel signals to identify where a faulty reading is occurring. More money, better reader to do that. The Journey problem is likely going to be a wheel sensor and/or tone ring issue and is hardly ever the module. Not every scanner can read ABS codes or SRS/airbag codes. Many of the box stores offer free code scanning as an option but be extremely hesitant about the parts cannon going off. Remember they sell parts and may have little to no wrench time.
  2. Think about how many rods are place on that rod journal. That's the transition line between the two rods.
  3. I read the "magnetic" part earlier. That doesn't mean it can't be a sintered bushing or that it wouldn't work well. Maybe the clutch company can give more details on it's composition and why they included that one instead of the traditional bronze. You may want to check input shaft fit prior to trans install.
  4. I believe it is a sintered bushing regardless of the color. It's hard to believe a rebuild company would send a bushing that was going to tear up an input shaft. Modern pilot bushings are made from a variety of materials
  5. Any updates on your starter/ solenoid issues? Installed, wired, working, car started?
  6. If you're catching your fingernail on them, it's definitely time to replace them. If you were to run them again, I think shortly you'd see them flaking material off and damaging the crank. Bearings are way cheaper than regrind plus bearings. You'll need to drop a main or two also. Those will also probably look as bad.
  7. You may have a degraded front mount also. Unless it's been replaced recently it's probably in the same condition as the rear mounts were and it might be angling the bellhousing up.
  8. I would guess that loosening the bolts on one side and removing the bolts on the other side would keep the body fairly stable and retain it's position on the frame. Replace the mounts on the side with bolts removed, replace the bolts and fasten loosely, set the body back down and repat the process on the other side. Any additional blocking that can be put under the frame to help stabilize it might be a good idea. Steering column, pedal, linkage, wiring may need to be addressed as well.
  9. The hole is packed with carbon on the bottom. It's bigger than a pinhole.
  10. Have you tried pulling the plug for TDC and using the borescope through that. With the piston down instead of up you might get a better look at the entire piston.
  11. You best bet is taking the truck or a color sanded and buffed section of the truck to a paint supplier or body shop that has a color camera for paint and can then mix a amount for you if they haven't switched to waterborne paint only. Toners used to mix your color are no longer available and as Tim said, time does have an affect so unless the mixer is really good a close match is all you'll get. With more and more body shops switching to waterborne it's going to get even more difficult for the DIYer.
  12. Perhaps someone else can repeat the experiment on one of their carbs and report back. I don't have any carbs floating around or I'd try it myself.
  13. You don't by chance happen to use SEAFOAM in your tank. It's commonly used as a fuel additive for cars in storage over winter and that stuff will creep uphill.
  14. My personal preference is an additional .002 on intakes, additional .003 on exhaust when setting cold and book specs a hot setting.
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