Dave72dt

I should have used a dictionary first. It's still a misspelled word given the context. I'm getting older and grumpier and less tolerant of lazy writing. The list I'm getting less tolerant of seems to grow daily.

I didn't suggest any particular manifold. Obviously you have to use something that fits on the engine whether you find something that fits, modify something to fit or make something fit. Now it's sitting on a stand with exhaust manifolds in place, oil filter on, alternator and fan, pulleys, fuel pump. How does that tell you how far forward or back, left to right the engine has to go, what's going to need to be modified or moved? Are you going to build mounts and weld them onto the frame based on the package you assembled on the stand without a trial fit in the engine bay? "bout" is not a word

Remote filter is an option. As I recall changing those filters always had oil running onto the exhaust pipes. Just something to consider. Whatever those little ports are technically called, they'll leak if not plugged with carbon or taken into account. Everything will fit on a stand. That doesn't mean there is room in the engine bay.

I've been working on a 318/727 swap in my B3B and I can tell you for a fact it takes up a lot of space. Heads kick the exhaust out a lot, oil filter uses up some space and how new your donor engine makes a difference on what manifolds you can use. Some of the later heads had EGR ports below the main exhaust ports so the main chambers of the manifold are below the main ports. Now your stock steering column is in the way. Down below on the driver side, starter choice would be the gear reduction unit. The full size starter takes up more space. You also have to deal with a distributor located on the back of the engine. It's not a simple swap. You'll have to make your own decisions on engine placement. I would suggest dropping your donor engine with accessories into place and find where it fits best, build mounts from there.

Not much done today, did front brakes on wife's truck yesterday outside in 20 degree weather. Breakfast tomorrow pancakes, maybe sausage, lunch of leftover meatloaf probably, supper of turkey noodle soup or scalloped potatoes and ham. Might work on patterns for upholstery for the B3B, maybe a cover for the steering collum, maybe finish welding one of the headers. Lots that can be done, some might actually happen.

Don passed several years ago, still missed and remembered by many. You have some options. I don't know if they use one, probably does as most from that era did. If you want one, you can cut one or use gear oil resistant silicone as most manufacturers do today.

any place the studs go through the manifold could be what's holding it on. Rust and corrosion.

You may find these at a tool rental also

How many nuts did you take off? There's a nut underneath that is often overlooked.

It's on a tapered axle so it's locked on hard. Any puller you use must pull from the studs. Attempting to pull from the outer diameter of the drum will simply ruin the drum. Someone will link a pic of the type puller to use or you can use the search feature to find a number of posts regarding the puller needed.

there's a y tuber in Canada that has a pair of them. One set primarily for cleaning, the other for welding. He only welds sheet metal with it. Anything structural gets MIG. Panel fitment is important. It doesn't like gaps. That said, a 110 MIG with gas is you most economical and will do 95% of any welding needed. Most frame components you might be welding or repairing are not that thick save for suspension brackets and are within the range of the 110's. Those that aren't can be tacked in place, components removed and welded by a professional. You do not want those coming off. I run a 220 MIG because I was doing a lot of heavy frame work at the time and 110 hadn't come out yet. If it dies it will be replaced with a 110.

At some point in it's life the engine probably kicked back, possibly damaging the spiral grooves in the starter drive. There are some dogs in there that have to travel in those grooves. Often those starters need what I would call a running start to get the engine spinning and with the drive extended as yours indicates, it doesn't like to turn. Continue taking the end of the drive apart and inspect. Small parts so use caution.

2 part epoxy putty frequently used for repairing cracks in steering wheels. equal parts kneaded together, then worked into the cracks. when hardened can be shaped, sanded and painted

Rustoleum sprays fine, may or may not need some reduction. I believe I used mineral oil.

Cylinders "boated"? Bored or honed? I understand new bearings on the overhaul. What were the condition of those new bearings you replaced with a second set? Were the rods checked for staightness. Were the rods reconditioned? How about wrist pin bushings? If it's not the obvious, every piece has to be rechecked.