Dave72dt

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I would suggest it's a radio static suppression unit

I would say the 2.33 if it's deep enough. The hub may have a casting number and the axle may have a manufacturer tag on it that may help. There are some odd sized caps out there and you may only find them at a trailer sales and repair. Any place that sells and/or installs trailer hitches should be able to access those odd ones. Take the hub with you. If it's been open to the elements that long you may want to inspect the bearings and seal.

The instructions from one vender shows it going to the voltage regulator BAT terminal with the FLD and ARM terminal wires disconnected. Your vender should have had instructions with the alternator or a tech number to call.

Voltage drop tests. You can start with a simple test light or be more precise with a Volt-Ohm meter. Something may have stuck on after you turned the car off and drained the battery, you may have corrosion on cables, connections, grounds, bad battery. Just because you have voltage does not mean a connection can carry the amp load. Does the starter turn the engine over? Power at the amp gauge? Both sides of it? Spark from coil?

I'm not surprised at the front and rear seal leaks. It's somewhat common on engines that get run infrequently. Gaskets and seals dry out, shrink a bit and leak and the rear seal is especially prone to leak. It's a common complaint and it's not limited to Mopar. Sometimes they heal themselves with running and sometimes not. On your rebuild invoices did you happen to see a speedi sleeve for the front hub? NOS parts to rebuild?

I had a pair of specialty grinders used to sharpen knives on farm equipment years ago. Brisk business initially but as the equipment that used those knives became outdated, fewer and fewer sets of knives needed sharpening until the grinders were just taking up space. Kept them around for a couple of years and finally sold them for scrap. How often do people take advantage of your specialty tool rental program. What did it take to warrant the cost of those other specialty tools and how is this one different.

A 30" panhard set level at ride height using shocks with 8" stroke centered in travel will move the axle 1/4" sideways when maxing out the shocks. Guessing at an approximate panhard length and generous with shock travel and not expecting the owner is planning on offroading it and will be staying on hard surface roads that will move the shocks probably half that much, side to side would be very limited. Because one end is anchored and the other moves and travels in an arc it must move side to side. Panhard length and is it level, shock travel and is it centered are all variables that will affect the side to side travel.

Take the belt off and start the engine. Ticking noise still there it's not the gen or water pump. Showed up after adjusting the valves? Adjusters have been known to come loose.

There would still be some pressure in the fuel line. A restriction in the inlet of the carb may seep enough fuel through to idle and /or refill while removing the air cleaner. Accelerator pump draws it's fuel from the bottom of the carb so it doesn't have to be that full to pump a few shots of gas. There's been talk in the past about an internal line in the tank that may have pin holes so the level of fuel in the tank may be an issue. Is the driveway level, up hill or down and the same for your road you test on? How about jack stands so you can test drive the car in place?

I've never seen it in 12oz can. The 30# drums were over 1,000 per when they first came out and the connectors are different than R134a. You may want to bite the bullet and have it done professionally where any leaks can be found before charging the system. Never mind. They're all over the internet as well as fill kits and not much difference than r134a in price.

Orifice tubes may be different as well a couple of other components. The new stuff is supposed to be environmentally friendly indicated by the 11 day breakdown. Service equipment has to be dedicated to the r1234yf only as remnants of r134a and its lubricants may cause breakdown of ther1234yf. There's some white pages that may be beneficial to read before contemplating using r134a including some legal aspects.

Thank you!

IBR?

You can use a timing light to check for consistent spark watching the flashes as you apply the lead to each plug wire. Checking the valve lash won't hurt and should be part of a tune on an unknown engine.