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9 foot box

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About 9 foot box

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

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  • Interests
    I'd like to have a Cadillac powered aluminum air boat. But I'll settle on keeping my Plymouth cars Dodge trucks alive.
  • My Project Cars
    2- 47 Dodge WD-21 trucks, 46 Plymouth Bus. Cp, 49 P15 Bus.Cp, 48 P15 Club Cp.

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  • Biography
    71 years old,Teamster, Operator, Machinist, Welder, fabricator.
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  • Interests
    Anything I'm doing in my shop.

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  1. I’d like to see pictures of your project, to see how it’s assembled.
  2. I would assume that each tooth moves the rotation 36 degree’s, with a 10 tooth gear. You might have to loosen the distributor from the the lock plate to get a suitable range of advance/retard. As to your #5 post. Three of my running engines have the #1 plug wire to the right of the cap hold down clip.
  3. When a pump is put in, you turn pump drive shaft until the slot in the end of the drive shaft lines up with the cap screw holes in the mounting flange. Then turn drive gear one tooth counter-clock wise.
  4. And on the other hand, you could use Autolite 295, set at .028”. A non-resistor plug. That’s what I run, with solid core plug wire.
  5. I would pull all the plugs, prop the throttle wide open and do a compression test. If the numbers are low, put a squirt of oil in each cylinder and repeat compression test. If the pressure is better, put the distributor back to where you got spark and put the throttle back to idle, install plugs and wires. Your cylinders could be dry from all your previous attempts.
  6. The horizontal shaft that goes back has detents in it, for spring loaded balls, to index it. That shaft isn’t going back far enough to go into detent position. The control rod linkage is too long or the fitting or plug where the back-up light switch goes, is stopping it from fully engaging. The fitting can’t go beyond the bore of the shaft. The shaft has got to go past the hole to engage the back-up sender.
  7. Your car is licensed in Big Horn County, Hardin is county seat, and is in the Crow Indian reservation. Hardin is 14 miles North of the Little Bighorn Battlefield. Looks pretty straight, I’d jack up the front and flush out both sides of the frame and clean the mud out of the body sill braces. My P15 that was from Butte,MT, had packed dirt in the outboard braces that I got out and drilled a drain hole at the low end. My P15 from Trinidad,CO had red mud that rusted the metal a lot and needed repair to floor, sills and braces. I don’t know the construction of your car, but it’s what I had to deal with before.
  8. I bench tested a vacuum motor with a vacuum pump from a refrigerator. End up putting 8 drops of MMO in and it worked well. The other part of the install required replumbing the fittings to be 1/4” ID. You need that size for the volume needed constant to the motor. I used 1/8” NPT with a 5/16” hose barb, turned down a bit for the hose to go on easier. The original system had an inverted flare fitting with 1/4” tubing, that restricted the volume considerably. My wipers worked even worse than your description. I was barely getting a complimentary swipe on deceleration. The wipers performed much better in a couple snow sqauls I drove in Easter Sunday.
  9. Have you ever started the engine in the truck? A 440 is a lot of block to put in the space and be able to work on it, that’s the first problem. You’ll need to move the steering box to outside the frame, and fabricate a new steering column. A tilt front end would make it easier to work on. I toyed with the idea of a 4 liter Jeep engine but the longer block requires firewall modifications. I’d like to know if the engine in the truck can be started. A 289 Ford would fit better. But I’d keep it a flathead six.
  10. Siemens makes a PM352 motor, classicpartsusa sells it. You can change the screws and shorten the shaft. You might have to elongate the mounting holes, I don’t know. It just looks like a fit. Delco discontinued that motor, I think.
  11. Polsonator,j Just for the the heck of it I just looked on CL, In your area. Auto parts by owner, The heading is “ engine flat head six 37 Dodge”. It’s in White Salmon. $500, If you contact the seller, ask for the engine no. It might not be a 37. If that works, you could enjoy your car with the lighter traffic and think what you want in a rebuild. My 46 P15 has a tag on the block saying to Specify Model 231. So you could put a 230 crank, rods and flywheel in your block. You got some good miles out of that engine.
  12. I would add changing out the brake fluid to your list. Getting old contaminated fluid out of the system is a good way to prevent problems.
  13. The barrel that holds the light socket unscrews from the bezel. Don’t lose the wedge type washer/spacer in front of it, when you pull the bezel out.
  14. I think that something like this would work okay.
  15. Hey Kevin, my parts book has a 619167 number that is superceded by 856455. It lists as a 12 ball, 1.3780" I.D., 2.8346" O.D., .669" thick. If those measurements work, hilltopautoparts has a NOS one for $95. Other listings for that number show fewer ball bearings. Good Luck. Hey Brent.
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