9 foot box

That rivet tool is on my shopping cart. I have been putting it off. I have an inner axle seal leaking, so I got an eight inch length of 3” exhaust pipe and had it enlarged on the end. It pulled the axle bearing race easily. I didn’t want to use a slide hammer. Now that it worked, I can probably shorten it. I didn’t know how much axle spline to account for. It cost me $5 for the pipe and I had the nuts and parts to fabricate. I have the bearing race half way out in this picture, so I still have to get the correct seals. I didn’t need a C-499 tool. I haven’t made a replacement for the C413 bearing race seating tool yet.

I have put MMO in the vacuum motor, when removed, by manipulating the movement to suck the oil in. I have an old refrigerator motor to use as the vacuum source, to check for any increase of movement. It sometimes softens the paddle grease in the vacuum motor. I’ve read that brake fluid can soften the waxy seal on the paddle. Clean Sweep Wipers in Redmond, Oregon will be my go to, if my efforts fail, for a rebuild. The hex terminals on the motor arm should turn freely, mine weren’t moving and I needed to free them and use new grommet’s on the wiper arms. Part no. 51A-17562. Another instance where Ford parts will work on our cars.

This is from a C-1 Dodge Service Manual. Looks like a floating power front mount with a front sump pan. It’s the only picture in the manual with a motor mount on the engine. Maybe it helps. Rick D.

I suggest contacting Power Brake X-Change in Pittsburgh. They can repair your Gemmer steering box for not much more than it would cost for parts, and guaranteed.

I have a 57 Dodge 300 that has a 1/2 ton differential and uses wheel adapters to use the 6 on 7.250” wheels. The width is 2.310” with a 1/2” base and 1” thickness for the six studs the interior hole is 6”, overall 9.250” wide, the center base hole is hub centric. I wonder if I could replicate it with a 3D copy. Then I can put the adapter back on the truck while I figure out the fabrication of an adapter that would need machining and final welding and truing. A copy of the adapter would be the best way to present it to a business that has more tooling than I do for rivet and locate pin clearance and wheel coinage on the bolt flange. I haven’t found the higher gears for a full floating axle. They are documented, but not available when I have searched. I did buy a TM 9-1808C booklet that explains the differences of the carrier housings. Rick D.

When the transmission case is clean, you could use an o-ring and thread sealant on the front bearing retainer bolts. The lower shifting shaft should have a 3/4” core plug. The lower center counter shaft is a leaker. I sealed mine with a penny and sealant. Or buy a 3/4” core plug. It will seep oil if it’s not sealed.

A quick fix is to apply hand brake, depress clutch, put transmission in any gear and bump the starter. That will release the clutch plate. Usually driving the car in normal stop and go driving cleans the clutch face. You could fashion a stick between the dash and clutch pedal that prevents the clutch plate from engaging fully, when you store the car again. I block the clutch pedal on a 8N Ford tractor when I park it, it will only start in neutral. So it’s a hassle to get it released. My wife had a 36 Hudson cork disc wet clutch that would stick, I would block the pedal, because I didn’t want to risk tearing off any of the hundred cork discs on the plate, after parking for any length of time.

That is the wrong voltage regulator. It appears to be a VR-1. You would need a VR-2 or VRP-4503A. It would bolt up to the existing holes on the inner fender for ground. The terminal that you are calling a battery, looks like it is marked F. Disconnect the battery ground and remove the two wires that are there, to see what the terminals on the regulator are stamped. That regulator might work, but it has to be wired correctly. You will have to determine which wire is correct by continuity or current. I think that the larger red wire is Battery, which would make the middle terminal Armature and then Field. The VR might interchange, but the terminals aren’t the same as the original. There is a parts seller in Canada, Parts Monkey, I recently bought two Spectra SP1296MP fuel pumps for $143 US delivered. That’s less than I would pay for one, from a state side seller. You might contact them for any parts that you have numbers for. You can also peruse Ply33.com for more part numbers that you may need. Rick D.

I have used Craigslist to sell a running 42 Ford pickup for $6,000. That selling price was mine. It sold within the week. I would take some pictures of the car and post them with the ad. Put a $4000 price for a running 47 Desoto that needs more work. You can barter on the selling price from there. The grille, park lights, hood ornament, glass lens taillights are just a few of the parts that others would want if you part it out. You still have to post the dash, steering wheel, seat springs, arm rests, etc. Just sell the car as is. You won’t be an eBay millionaire, but the car will go to someone that can use the parts. And the car would be gone from your shed. And you won’t have to deal with it anymore. It’s certainly your choice, but that’s my opinion.

Thanks for the update Dick. I had found his email from a National Desoto Club post from a year ago. I was still unsure of the viability of the old posts that I found on Google. I have bought parts from Len Dawson, but his inventory has been sold and moved. There you go, Moparkid. Let the forum know if he has an eBay store and if he has the part/parts that you need. You haven’t said if you need the upper or lower anchor bolt. Rick D.

My P15 parts book says that the front upper anchor bolt is 870900 and the lower is 854022. Five years ago Doug and Deb posted that an Ed Spiegel in PA, had a lot of parts. You have a reference bolt on the other front wheel, it might help you to find a replacement.

I’ve been fortunate to find original service manuals and a parts book that has a bit more detail of how components work. Rick D.

The part you are missing provides a soft stop of the mechanism when it closes. It’s good that yours had free movement.

There is a 5/16 headed bolt that needs to be loosened.

I had to make new pedals for a 57 Dodge truck. Maybe you could make an oval pedal like the original, with an offset bolt, to move the pedal pad to the right. A belt bolt could be used to keep the oval pad in place, without a bolt head. That might clear the shifter shaft, you won’t have to redo what you have done. I had bought the rubber pedal pads, but they wouldn’t work for the cast pedal. I found a use for the pads and repaired the mud worn ones. I used a stock pedal assembly as a pattern. Something to sleep on.