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9 foot box

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About 9 foot box

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

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  • Gender
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  • Interests
    I'd like to have a Cadillac powered aluminum air boat. But I'll settle on keeping my Plymouth cars Dodge trucks alive.
  • My Project Cars
    2- 47 Dodge WD-21 trucks, 46 Plymouth Bus. Cp, 49 P15 Bus.Cp, 48 P15 Club Cp.

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  • Biography
    71 years old,Teamster, Operator, Machinist, Welder, fabricator.
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  • Location
  • Interests
    Anything I'm doing in my shop.

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  1. The correct fuse is 1.437” long. NAPA 782-1076 is what I bought, SFE-30. Rick D.
  2. 48jumpdoors, a couple things to check are the length of the input shaft and the voltage of the solenoid. The pinion shaft should be 8.750” long from the face of the transmission. I believe 6 volt solenoids are stamped as such, I don’t know if a 12 volt is designated the same. If you have to open the transmission, you can get a 1064745 service package. You must use a battery to check the solenoid function, not a charger. Nice find.
  3. You must adjust the starter pinion clearance on the removed starter by screwing the button on the starter switch in or out. I would say that the starter gear isn’t fully engaged to the ring gear when contact is made at the switch. There is a picture and a couple paragraphs in the shop manual, in electrical system, that shows the procedure.
  4. Desert Valley Auto Parts, Casa Grande,AZ, has a fair inventory of Desoto and Chrysler cars, online.
  5. To get those horseshoe clips off, get a piece of 1/8”x 1 1/4” flat stock. Grind the end down on one side to .100”, to fit into the slot. Tap the clip back and you should be able to finish getting it off with a screwdriver. I’ve had my best luck by heating a nut thoroughly with a propane torch and immediately quenching with water. I would use those shoes. On a previous picture, it seemed like the shoes had not been major adjusted, the arrows were pointing towards each other. I mention that because with the brakes properly adjusted, they may require a break in and might grab at first. The shoes
  6. Thank You, for your recognition, everyone. For the first five years, I put an overdrive with fast second in it, had to patch the floor, sills and a couple sill supports. The last two years, I’ve been learning body shop technique. I learned a lot. I just wanted it black without a cellulite fender. Looking back, the hardest thing was bending the rear fender welting and putting the fenders on. My next project to be painted and assembled is a WD21 truck with a 9 foot box, my first purchase down this rabbit hole of vintage mopar. All other purchases seemed to get ahead of it. Having this forum and
  7. I got this car in September 2014. It is a 46' with the serial number on the right door pillar. it has the original P15 stamped engine, but has 230 crank and rods. So a tag riveted to the block ahead of the engine number, says, For Parts Specify Model 231. Rick DeDycker AKA 9 foot box
  8. A box end ratchet wrench sure comes in handy on the fan bolts. For what you will be doing, I would unbolt the fenders at the A-pillar/cowl, un-bolt the front center radiator front support, disconnect all wiring from cowl forward, and take the fenders, grill and radiator off in one piece. You’ll probably want to clean it all up and paint anyway. So get it out of the way. It will make things a lot easier. IMO.
  9. Back on June 22,2020, BrentB3B was working on a speedometer. There is a way to set the needle at zero. B1B Kevin is also a resource for gauge refurbishing. Your lucky it didn’t twist your new cable. I hooked up a speedometer on a chassis I had and twisted the cable at the same place, I assumed it would work, but it was more froze up than yours.
  10. In a Google search, type t137 other engines. It will tell you that your engine is a 1958 Dodge truck.
  11. Looks like a 1959 block with internal bypass cooling. What is the stamped serial number on the block? I would pull the plugs and squirt some oil in each cylinder, the bore has been dry for awhile and would be possible oxide above each piston. If it doesn’t have any oil leaks on the pan seals, leave it alone. Mark your hood some how, so when you put it back on, you have a reference point. I’d clean the engine up and paint it silver. Your 1950 has a 1949 only front bumper. My preference of bumper styles.
  12. I used 51A-17562 grommets. If your wiper motor has hex brass connections, make sure that they are free to rotate.
  13. According to my W-series shop manual, your truck would have a single speed rear axle. A WFA would have a two speed manually operated rear axle. The WF had a 228 or 236 engine, the next bigger tonnage truck would have a 241 or 250, possibly with sodium exhaust valves. The frame and cab forward that I bought was a 47 grain truck with a 250 w/sodium valves and a 5 speed and PTO. I can post pictures of the vacuum units that were on the firewall, they are different than yours. There is also a separate valve for the speedometer. Take the starter switch off an clean the contacts, my starter worked af
  14. Your inquiry of a differential rebuild is a concern of mine also. Your good chrysler1941. I was going to suggest that James contact jholst1942@gmail.com for the service manual rear axle pdf. But your attachment might work for James.
  15. A br6s crosses to an Autolite 303. That’s a cold plug. I run non-resistor Autolite 295 that crosses to an AC45 or 46 being slightly hotter or an NGK b4. I think NGK uses 3210 as the new number. So my suggestion would be clean and gap your old AC45’s, and check them after a run. If still not burning clean, go to Autolite 306, NGK b4, or Champion 511. Resistor plug gap set at .035”, non-resistor at .028”. This all assumes you have solid core and not carbon core wires and all wires firmly seat in the distributor cap. I solder the distributor ends of all the wires. You can check the continuity of
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