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9 foot box

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  • Content Count

    231
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About 9 foot box

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Whitehall,MT
  • Interests
    I'd like to have a Cadillac powered aluminum air boat. But I'll settle on keeping my Plymouth cars Dodge trucks alive.
  • My Project Cars
    2- 47 Dodge WD-21 trucks, 46 Plymouth Bus. Cp, 49 P15 Bus.Cp, 48 P15 Club Cp.

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    71 years old,Teamster, Operator, Machinist, Welder, fabricator.
  • Occupation
    retired

Converted

  • Location
    Whitehall,Montana
  • Interests
    Anything I'm doing in my shop.

Recent Profile Visitors

915 profile views
  1. Hey Kevin, my parts book has a 619167 number that is superceded by 856455. It lists as a 12 ball, 1.3780" I.D., 2.8346" O.D., .669" thick. If those measurements work, hilltopautoparts has a NOS one for $95. Other listings for that number show fewer ball bearings. Good Luck. Hey Brent.
  2. 48ply1stcar, Maybe you could adjust your throttle linkage, to get full throttle. Take the return spring off, put a brick on the pedal, disconnect linkage at the carburetor and see if you can get more movement. You might have to shorten the first linkage, so it doesn't hit the firewall. Don't forget to reconnect the throttle return spring.
  3. Todds' post about weight, reminded me of the classiccardatabase.com website.
  4. The part number is 1115576. dpmotorparts has one for $30. One in stock. While perusing ebay for parts in the past, I found an extra one for $15. I thought it was a fluid drive part, but it shows in my Service Manual for my P15 on page 204, and a 39 P8 has a spreader spring in the break-down. I'd like to read the service bulletin, if you find it. 1064745 will get you a rebuild package at dp , for another $50.
  5. When I was assembling my frame and trimming the tape, it was evident that it would leak at the center. I took the glass out and reassembled the frame. Put it face down on cardboard and traced a vertical line around the frame of both windows. Then I added 1/4" more on the outside of that line. That was my pattern, and it beds the glass in the channel better.
  6. I thought my post on steering wheel, dash differences was that worthy. It was the only way I know of, to present it. It's a large file. Thank You. Index of __jfssch_Steering.html
  7. Nice fabrication, JSabah. Young Ed was referring to your other query. It's a 32-11166-1 escutcheon, from Macs Auto Parts, that looks like yours'. They seem to fit flush to the panel, and the profile may be slightly different. The center spring loaded part, might work for your replication.
  8. I measured some engines today, and from the face of the timing cover to the center of the pulley, 1 5/16". I also came up with a post from Sept. 8, 2008. I'd remove the damper and turn the pulley around, it will gain you a 1/4". Your harmonic has moved back, like Yukon said. You can run it without the damper, till you decide what you want to do. I've used hbrepair.com. for my rebuilds. The pulley only lines up one way, so keep turning it till the 6 holes line up. You and your father are doing a fine job. Pictures of a damper, with pulley both ways.
  9. My P-15 manual has a "ammeter shows high charge" heading. It seems that your field coils are grounded. Testing will tell if it's the generator or the regulator. Because it started on a stereo removal, I'd add engine to firewall, firewall to fenders, and engine to frame, grounds. I've read of some stereo installs, isolating body parts. Maybe the regulator lost it's ground, when you removed the voltage converter.
  10. Cleaning the connections at the amp gauge solved my stalling problem. Disconnect battery ground, have your light, nut driver, emery cloth, dielectric grease and whatever else you might need at hand. I only wanted to crawl into that position once.
  11. Door panels made by My Pillow Mike. Mahogany is the way to do a dash. And the grain should run horizontal. Maybe some hammered nail heads. You could trim the wood grain panels with chrome door edging, to kinda dress it up. And it has pin stripes.
  12. "Button" head stainless steel with a socket that fits the appropriate allen wrench.
  13. If you have a shop manual, there is a reference to windshield in the body section. It says to open window, remove the two screws that holds the regulator to the frame. Hold the windshield straight out and remove the screws which hold hinge to windshield. I'd be spraying those screws. If you can Dremel a slot in the screws, maybe you'll work them loose. If that don't work, dremel the head of the screws off. The screws have be removable, don't mess with regulator. Once the frame is out I would mig weld a 10-32 nut to the studs, to remove. A good steel nut, even a square one. I used S/S button head socket screws for replacements.
  14. Rockauto is good for brand and part numbers. Post a picture of your engine and car. It could make a difference on what you need, without assuming.
  15. You have pushed the pin to the broken point and the lower part of the pin isn't following through. Pull the top of the pin off and drive the lower part, out the bottom. If that works for your application.
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