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Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/05/2020 in all areas

  1. 2 points

    Mid Michigan flood

    I spent years living on the water, but it was in a US Navy destroyer, lol.
  2. 2 points
    as an added and in case you get an inexperienced counter attendant...(notice I did not say parts agent).....Napa stock this in their inventory under part number 65-201
  3. 2 points
    GL1 is readily available at NAPA..if not in stock is in their inventory and available on an overnight....maybe same day if you get there early....it is gallon container but relax, that gallon is better priced than many quarts of other similar lubes....I bought a gallon not long back for under 17.00
  4. 2 points
    BBQ 2020 is in the past, the future is now........I'M READY FOR BBQ #14 2021 BROTHER!!! Lets hope we get through the year with our health intact, and our jobs sound! Here's to friends!!!! Tim aka 48Dodger
  5. 2 points

    Lets see pic of your trucks

    So my up and coming truck.made the deal yesterday.
  6. 2 points

    Me and the B-1-D

    10-4-19: Tomorrow I will move the truck one space closer to the Meadowbrook. I might slide it over on wheel dollies as there is no garage door there. 4 car garage, 3 doors ๐Ÿ˜. I'll need to park my work car where the truck is now. Getting close to window scraping weather here. BTW fellas, there was nothing under the seat!
  7. 2 points
    Don Coatney

    Door Adjustment

    Joe; Billy Austin just sent me this short film clip on door adjustment. It's a great example of the body wedge fulcrum method. The language the mechanics use is a bit raunchy but there technique is effective. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3p58wHX4e0g
  8. 1 point

    1940 Dodge D14 Build Thread

    Hello everyone. I wanted to start a one-place thread to update the group on this build. I have a couple little threads out there, but this one will tell the story (comedy or tragedy, we'll see) on the breathing new life into my 1940 Dodge D14. To tell the story, we have to rewind to 2008 ... that is when I sold my 1973 Stingray. The wife and I then got a boat ... and you know what they say about those. Fast forward through 7 years or so of nagging her until she finally caved and agreed to get another car ... her only requirement, it needed to have 4 doors ... done. I knew I wanted to get a prewar car and I started this adventure in 2015 looking to get a 1937 Desoto. The deal fell through the day I was going to pick it up - the seller decided not to sell it/ or sold it to someone else, I'll never know now. A few weeks went by and I found this 1940 gem for sale in Pennsylvania ... called the guy and went right out to take a look. Here are the photos when we looked at it/brought it home back in 2015. Cutting it close on the prewar era and some say it;s not ... but it was made by the US in the US and we were still technically not IN the war until 41 ... that's my story!
  9. 1 point

    Shop lift

    Our sales taxes are going to end up as much as the item pretty soon because of the current situation going on.
  10. 1 point

    ebay bidding

    That's quite the nice hub puller. I need to dig mine out. My Scout has a typical frozen parking brake. Hasn't been released in 30 years. Maybe more. I'll probably have to heat the hub, unless I get lucky, and the guy that installed Dad's 4:88 gears put a good coat of anti-seize on, back in 1962. That's only 58 years. I don't think we ever touched the rear brakes. Anyhow I used eBay to buy that OT kit car I posted, and I got lucky and came in $1000 less than my max bid. But I would have been happy either way, because nobody wanted it more than I did and I won.
  11. 1 point

    D-24 Body and Paint

    I've tried to match Panama Sand off an old color chart. Sort of beige.
  12. 1 point

    Tips on buying a new to me mopar

    Well the car made a 240 mile trip home Friday, then its driven about 40-70 more miles since that trip. The car is doing great. I put it on a lift today to check out the underneath. Turns out its pretty solid.
  13. 1 point

    ANSWERED Tailgate support bracket

    My 52 3/4 ton still sports the original bed. The support bracket goes under the shovel strip so that itโ€™s the same level as the other strips. The bed wood has quite a deep route for it. The tailgate on my B3C, however, has been modified with an opening for a grain slot, so the bracket offers no support. -roland
  14. 1 point

    More Miller Factory Tools

    I just acquired several more Miller Factory Tools and will try to post the pictures of the tools. C-604 for all Dodge,Des, Chry and Ply hydraulically operated Trans. Trans reverse idler gear shift puller C-609 for all fluid drive equiped cars. This is the clutch driven plate aligning Arbor C-625 this is a partila set of tools runner hub bearing and bushing puller C-714 For all Dod, Des, Chry and Ply hydraulicially operated trans. Transmission poston return spring compressor. C-716 for 1946-53 Dod,Des and Chry Hydraulically operated trans. Trans countershaft needle bearing assembly arbor C-745 for all Ply,Dod, Des and Chry Sixes.This is the rear axle shft oil seal installing Sleeve. Not to be used on the Eight and 7 passenger cars DD-286 or c-3181 for all models. Clutch shaft pilot bushing installing and burning tool. Now I have both tools the DD and the C Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com.
  15. 1 point
    A fwiw post, I have seen cars sit for months or years, and the fuel pump not pick up and work, last time was a 57 cheby with a 283. Once I started it running off a gravity feed tank, the original pump started working after a few minutes. I think this is caused from a small hole or a weak diaphragm. My neighbor has a 62 cheby with same issue. Have to feed it fuel until it gets going. I told him he needs a new fuel pump, I think he is waiting for me to come over and replace it. Point is, if you can add fuel in the carb and get it to run, you need to look in this direction. I know on my 49 dodge, I pulled the distributor and later found when I installed it I had a different issue. My intake seemed to have a lot of fuel sitting in the bottom. Once I fixed the firing order, it fired right up and ran ok since.No clue if my intake today still has fuel sitting in it, but I would not worry about that.
  16. 1 point

    Necessity of Bench Bleeding?

    Come on all- fess up- have we all not found that out- After the fact!! ๐Ÿ˜ฒ I know I did-several times over the years- Oh ya, Now - I remember that happens with the cap left off! ๐Ÿ™ƒ DJ
  17. 1 point
    It can sit there for a long time on a cold engine....it will be a puddle if down there....plugs can be will be wet or dry ...I have been thru this,,,worth checking out. I understand maybe a weak spark but it did run fine till it sat and incorrect after sitting start procedure can get you into this situation. If it is flooded... leave the throttle open for few hours or a day...put throttle back to closed .... a pump or too and try cranking it... hopefully it will start up.
  18. 1 point

    1939-40 Chrysler Aluminum Head

    Here two photos of an Aluminum Head I picked up a few years ago. Soon, I hope to install it on the IND-7(236.6) which is installed in my WC 1/2 ton Military 4x4. it will save me weight over the 41' Spifire head I have on it now, and it has been shaved down for some higher compression. I have bought a Chrysler steel head gasket as they say to use steel instead of cooper.
  19. 1 point

    Unrestored vs restored controversy

    All interesting comments. I just react against the idea that I am "only the caretaker" of my old car, not the "owner". As I said, I DO like to see an original car, but I am not interested in creating some sort of museum piece that I don't dare drive. That's another thing about getting a real low mileage car - you almost can't drive it much at all, because its main "claim to fame" is that it is low mileage. When I bought my 46, it already had over 91,000 on it. I just want to make it as reliable as I can, and if that means some modifications then I'll do that (but then again, nothing drastic like a modern drive line, or a frame graft). I'd like to be able to redo the interior with some fabric that at least looks close to the original mohair, but at this point, I'm thinking more about trying to find something that looks like the typical seat covers of that era, because that's what I remember as being in almost every car my folks had when I was growing up. (To put that in context, my memories start in the very late 50's, when I was 4 or 5.)
  20. 1 point
    I have a 39 Desoto that has been AACA judged HPOF Historical Preservation of Original features. And yes the car has been repainted because the original paint was starting to flack off and then getting rust on the body. So to keep the car running and usable did a repaint down to bare metal. Fixed the old cloth cover wiring to modern wiring because of possible fire and other electrical issues. Headliner was real bad and replaced mohair seat covering and door panels are original but show their wear for being 80 + years but basically a good presentable car for the time period. I state the car as semi original but I can drive it and have fun with it and not worry about someone touching the car. Even the total 100point cars are not fully restores. I even brought this to the AACA attention because most glass was replaced and the original glass had a date code and manufacturers seal in the glass most cars that are senior winners from the 50's and back do not have the original glass if it was replaced. So with that being stated every senior and or grand national car will have something not original so there can never be a 100 point car. At one point the AACA took several of their most experienced senior judges and asked them to judge a modern car that was taken directly from a dealership and had not been owned by anyone. These judged then started to deduct points point based on what they had been schooled on via the AACA judging rule book. After the car was finally judged and the scores were given in they were all informed that no matter what they think they found wrong with the car based on their experience there could not be any points deductions. They all asked why. The real answer is that this is a factory delivered car and how it is shown it is perfect and a 100 point car. The senior judges were given a lesson as a joke to them and the AACA. A lot of the cars that are AACA senior winners are over restored and on some of the older cars the fit and finish was not down to having evenly space seams. The idea was to get the car off the assembly line and were not basically an item to be judged.. It was basic transportation except maybe for the real high cost cars. So restored partially restored or semi original or total original is the owners choice to do what ever they want. It all depends on what they want to do and if they have the funds to do anything to the car. But basically as I see it the idea is to keep the car running and enjoy the hobby. Rich HArtung desoto1939@aol.com
  21. 1 point

    Show your tools.

    This only sorta qualifies as a mechanic's tool. Front side is a regular measuring stick. Anybody recognize the back side of this rule? I used one of these every day at work for over 35 years. Almost felt like I needed one in my hip pocket when I wasn't at work..
  22. 1 point

    Bed to frame fitting

    Cheers 59bisquik. I have made my own rubber mounts but I think doubling up to 1/2" thick will do the business. Be good to get the truck out of the garage and let it see daylight when this virus is over. Thanks for all your help lads...Dave. Norwich UK. ........Its coming along slowly.....
  23. 1 point
    Earl Gray

    ANSWERED Gyromatic is Stuck

    Very helpful. Thank you! I disconnected the battery many times while trying to get the wiring right (cross-referenced post below) that it most likely reset it then. Good to know a solid solution. Thanks again!
  24. 1 point

    Handbrake hardware

    I added an additional spring,figured out there was a missing return spring and jigged it up. Havenโ€™t tested it yet,but im sure its better. will be getting a conventional e-brake eventually,as the 8.25 rear diff has it.
  25. 1 point

    Unrestored vs restored controversy

    I have both restored and unrestored cars. I think a lot depends on how unrestored you want it. I have fully restored two cars that were basket cases to begin with and maintained two originals. Pictured is a 1953 four-door Plymouth Belvedere (Canadian only model as the US did not have the four-door Belvedere). It is 95% original including the paint. I did replace a badly torn headliner and replaced the factory carpet. Other than that pretty original. It has had a ring job and valve lap about 30,000 miles ago. Present mileage is 101,000 and is driven often when the weather is nice. It has its share of gravel rash, dings in the trim, and the bumpers show some wear but overall pretty decent. They are only original once.
  26. 1 point
    Plymouthy Adams

    Carburetor/choke problems

    the sissons choke has to be operated properly...you only get voltage to the solenoid when cranking and why it is important to depress the pedal when cranking and let up to set the choke as it will be able to overcome the stops of the choke and fully close. If you hit the gas pedal from there while starting or between starting you will again have to depress the pedal and release during cranking to over come the stops and again set the choke closed. Else it will default to a partial choke.
  27. 1 point
    The factory valve will be too much for disc brakes, been there - done that. Remove it and try without any valve, you may be pleasantly surprised as I was years ago.
  28. 1 point
    Nick, here is the thread about how I stopped the leaks on my transmission: https://p15-d24.com/topic/50800-chasing-transmission-leak-48-p15/?tab=comments#comment-538887 At this point it would be very easy for you to pull the transmission and reseal it. I had rather try that first than mess with the rear seal.
  29. 1 point

    Time for an overhaul...

    I too, just read this thread. I started this hobby some 10+/- years ago and realize that Iโ€™m now in the advanced novice stage. Yet it is an enjoyable experience. I only knew how to change oil and plugs when I started. To those who have helped teach me, thanks.
  30. 1 point

    Fluid Drive unit rebuild

    Here is a rebuilt 1946 - 1948 C39 Chrysler straight 8 FD coupling on ebay...rebuilt under $300.00 including shipping..is it any good ? IDK.https://www.ebay.com/i/312961645429?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=312961645429&targetid=883687709934&device=m&mktype=pla&googleloc=9051777&poi=&campaignid=9343998924&mkgroupid=94993840979&rlsatarget=pla-883687709934&abcId=1139336&merchantid=8405854&gclid=CjwKCAiAzJLzBRAZEiwAmZb0anf300DvEmPCQd5hiGZjdPzvMvaZT9-HbeycEd1XH67kD99FlbOFsRoCDocQAvD_BwE This seller looks like he parted out a 48 chrysler and glass beaded many of the parts?
  31. 1 point
    IMO glass and rubber first (siding with JB on this one). Less chance of mucking up the interior stuff dinking around with the glass. IMO easy to put the interior into the slot in the rubber than to try and get 2 things to engage at once.
  32. 1 point

    Time for an overhaul...

    Glad to hear feedback on the oil pressure. I've been debating the full flow mod as you did it. Sounds like the hole placement and line sizing has been proven in your use. Now, just to get up the nerve to drill/tap my block.
  33. 1 point
    greg g

    Time for an overhaul...

    Just read this thread. The step up valves are entering he equation of afr at cruise because the total vacuum signal that held one valve closed is now being shared by each carb. So each carb is getting half or 1/3 of the single carb signal meaning that the spring tension will not be completely overcome leaving valves partially opened when they would normally be closed at steady level road cruise.
  34. 1 point

    Me and the B-1-D

    10-4-19: Finally got the truck running again and moved into my garage from the barn. Took me forever as usual. My son kept me company. The points were out of adjustment. The carb linkage is sticking too, causing the engine to rev. I kept it down by pulling the choke out. I'll figure it out. Main thing is that I got the truck moved. I feel good about that. Now I can get it up on blocks and work on the brakes among other things. I have a special plan for some patina'd lettering. It's gonna be really cool. ๐Ÿ˜‰ Pic 1: still stuck in the barn. ๐Ÿ˜ Pics 2 & 3: in the garage!
  35. 1 point

    Interior light mystery ??

    It's good advice to disconnect battery when checking wirings. For measuring, it's easier with power on, so after disconnecting battery cable, I use a small lead with 15A fuse with alligator clips on both ends . In case of shorts, only fuse burns.
  36. 1 point

    Me and the B-1-D

    My son wanted to put the license plate on, so I let him do that.
  37. 1 point
  38. 1 point


    I think this is what your looking for.
  39. 1 point
    well....for the life of me...can't upload my pics and they are'nt even 2 mb!! I give up...you will have to trust me! Ha!
  40. 1 point
    Thank you guys! I appreciate the illustration and the tip with the longer end bolts! Here is a picture of my 49, Its my first Mopar!
  41. 1 point

    bed wood for 1/2 ton

    The species of wood possibly varied by location of the plant is my guess. Southern Yellow Pine was what I was told was original (and seemed right on inspection from FEF). I used WHITE OAK as it WILL NOT rot or do bad things in weather. The proper color is to be PAINTED BLACK, not all prettified (unless that's your direction) and left ROUGH cut. The ONLY, and I repeat ONLY, location to get the RIGHT bed strips is from Midwest Military (https://midwestmilitary.com/) where they have their own dies to make the strips. Mar-K and Horkey all use Chevy/Ford strips in their kits. As noted ^^^ you can check out my bed build thread in my sig lines. Can't wait to see what you end up with!
  42. 1 point

    bed wood for 1/2 ton

    I have a 52 and I made new box planks from local west coast fine grained fir. The original wood was some sort of eastern hardwood which in fact seemed pretty soft. I have not had the truck out in the wet so I do not know yet if the fir will cup but I have sealed it pretty thoroughly. The thickness is 7/8 and the grooves for the box strips which I bought from Mar K can all be cut on a tablesaw. What surprised me is that the outer planks are tapered as the box is actually one inch wider at the tailgate than at the front panel. I do not know if all trucks are that way but mine certainly is which means I have to re make the outer planks. The truck is not at my home now so I cannot give you dimensions other than the thickness. I can recommend MarK for their box strips and bolt kit. They probably sell wood too . Have a look at their on line catalog.
  43. 1 point
    I didn't have any work to do ON my truck, but since today was designated "yard work day" I decided to work WITH my truck. I used it to run to Menards for some mulch.
  44. 1 point

    Basic Engine Info

    Thoughts on Mopar Flatheads 1 Thoughts on Mopar Flatheads 2 Thoughts on Mopar Flatheads 3 Links to Building Threads Experience Builders Flathead Gotchas Spark Plugs Engine Oil Engine Oil Filter Engine Oil Filter Installation
  45. 1 point

    U Shackle installation

    the youtube video is great, (not that I don;t mind reading) thanks for the link
  46. 1 point
    two weekends of garage cleaning and I am ready to start working on the truck again!! Compressor is wired in, gonna wire in the wirefeed next, all the boxed are unloaded and put away, I got room to move!!!! oooohhhhhh, be still my beating heart!!!!!!
  47. 1 point
    Spent the entire day under the truck. Sore today. Bed is ready to lift off. Lubed U-joints. Removed old tail pipe. Removed, cleaned, chased and reinstalled all axle to spring mounts. Mounted new rear shocks. Jeff
  48. 1 point

    218 Oil Filter question

  49. 1 point

    Door Adjustment

    Is it possible that there is nothing wrong with the door, but the front fender is what needs to be adjusted?
  50. 1 point

    Dash removal progress

    Good work John. As a suggestion, one thing that I am glad I did was to paint the back side of the dash a light colour. In my case I used a flat high fill primer on both sides that was a very light yellow. Now when I do work behind the dash with a trouble light I find it easier to see the various wires etc. against the light background. As I get older my eyes get weaker so every little thing helps. Phil
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