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Sam Buchanan

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Sam Buchanan last won the day on February 18

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  • Location
    North Alabama
  • Interests
    custom-built aircraft and boats
  • My Project Cars
    1948 Plymouth Special Deluxe
    1974 Triumph TR6
    1969 VW Beetle

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  • Location
    north Alabama
  • Interests
    custom-built aircraft

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  1. Often caused by severely degraded contacts. This is the same principle we see when trying to use 12v battery cables on a 6v system...the small cables will show continuity but not provide sufficient capacity to flow the current needed to operate the starter. Continuity and current capacity are two different functions. Voltage drop is a signature of reduced circuit capacity.
  2. No, it is a hardened steel shaft with a drive fit in the transmission case......when all the components are fresh.
  3. The shaft isn't supposed to require any sealing, at original assembly it was a press fit into the case. But it seems that in my tranny 75 years of service has loosened that fit enough for oil to leak past the shaft. The "plug" I made with a penny has been working well so far. The leak was obvious when I had the transmission leveled on the bench and filled with oil.
  4. I bought a different "brand" of that meter and the dwell function didn't work, was really hoping it would, the price was right. Guess I got a bad one.
  5. See if this thread has any useful info: https://p15-d24.com/topic/58630-major-leak-countershaft-3-speed/#comment-630905
  6. True. https://www.harborfreight.com/612v-circuit-tester-with-5-ft-lead-63603.html
  7. Or maybe it's so you can open the diff and let the stale air escape.....................
  8. When in doubt go to the manufacturer's website. https://www.powerprobe.com/na/en/product-list/content/308EbfcE6f63 Measures 0-70 vdc. Seems a bit pricey ($150) to me for the very simple troubleshooting we do on our cars. This is what I use: https://www.harborfreight.com/electrical/electrician-s-tools/multimeters-testers/7-function-digital-multimeter-59434.html I don't even bother replacing the battery, just throw the meter away and get another one for $7. I have several of these scattered around in various vehicles.
  9. Be careful about who's rear end you are looking at..............................
  10. I agree. I also am wondering about your reasons for wanting to convert to 12v. A conversion makes adding modern accessories such as sound systems easier, but a properly sorted out 6v system works very well. Get the car roadworthy on 6v then you can make an informed decision about whether or not a change to 12v is justified.
  11. Most likely they don't care...................see above post about being a slave to the database..........
  12. An easy filter fix is one of the metal filters commonly found in your local auto parts emporium. I would mount it near the fuel pump outlet so it would be below the exhaust manifold in the remote chance it developed a leak. Here is your first purchase!!! https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10593924&cc=1486874&pt=10335&jsn=382 Rock Auto has the head gasket: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=121713&cc=1349917&pt=5412&jsn=416 Also your friendly NAPA can help you out: https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/FPGHS7564C These flatties were produced in various flavors up to about 1970, often used in fork lifts, farm equipment, stationary pumps, etc. Check the mainstream suppliers first then you can use the specialty vendors when necessary.
  13. The engine sounds good! However, the idle is set way too high, these engines will tick over like a sewing machine at 400-500 rpm. Also....please get rid of the the plastic fuel filter! When that thing gets brittle, cracks and sprays fuel due to proximity to the exhaust manifold you will have a serious fire hazard. And yes, it looks like you are due a head gasket.
  14. I was seeing some random oil on the head, it went away after converting to a paper filter in the original filter housing. I don't know how oil was escaping the filter but it must happen occasionally.
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