Sam Buchanan

Yep, my go-to oil for the past couple of years. I have it dropped on my porch by Amazon. 🙂

I don't need research to know lead can cause gray sludge in an engine, I've seen it in aircraft engines. It can get so bad there is an airworthiness directive for cleaning the stuff out of hollow crankshaft galleries. These engines use non-detergent oil.

A multitude of options: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=automotive+heat+insulation&sprefix=automotive+heat%2Caps%2C103&ref=nb_sb_ss_ts-doa-p_3_15 I put Silas in my TR6, it was quite a bit less expensive than DynaMat: https://www.amazon.com/Sound-Deadening-mat-50mil-sqft/dp/B07B75TBCV/ref=sxin_16_pa_sp_search_thematic_sspa?content-id=amzn1.sym.9e69e792-0ff0-4e1a-b10c-a41b9d9b3ffc%3Aamzn1.sym.9e69e792-0ff0-4e1a-b10c-a41b9d9b3ffc&cv_ct_cx=automotive+heat+insulation&keywords=automotive+heat+insulation&pd_rd_i=B07B75TBCV&pd_rd_r=90d7f132-9057-4199-b6dd-94713b7f5b25&pd_rd_w=9UUSG&pd_rd_wg=cxgUK&pf_rd_p=9e69e792-0ff0-4e1a-b10c-a41b9d9b3ffc&pf_rd_r=M0XFNSWPPH1YYSGNJB6W&qid=1659475433&sprefix=automotive+heat%2Caps%2C103&sr=1-2-a73d1c8c-2fd2-4f19-aa41-2df022bcb241-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFVNkZXS1hJT01aMkQmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA1MjMyNDNSNTYwQjFYOTRXNEEmZW5jcnlwdGVkQWRJZD1BMDA4OTMwNDJJVUIwRDZTRktZUjkmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9zZWFyY2hfdGhlbWF0aWMmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

I recently replaced a boot that I had purchased new a couple years ago. It had split in the two years since installation but the old boot, time unknown, that I had repaired with silicone self-healing tape is still good. I lubed everything up and hoped I could finesses the new boot over the pin and through the housing without damaging it. Man......this is like delivering a baby in reverse! I resisted the temptation to use pry tools that could damage the (Chinese?) boot and eventually it popped into place. What an ordeal. We'll see how it holds up but really wish somebody still offered the leather boots.

Spit balling here........lift the engine as high with the hoist as you can to clear it from the car frame. Then attach your truck to the back of the car and drag it away from the hoist, without the engine/tranny the remainder of the car probably doesn't weigh more than 1000lbs. Back your truck up to the hoist and lower the engine onto the bed. Reverse the process when you get home.

Marc, go to a parts or hardware store and buy 1/8", 1/4" and 3/8" NPT plugs and keep them in your shop for "gauges". That way you can skip the parts book and internet back-and-forth and know instantly the size of the threads.

I looked for leather boots a couple years ago and couldn't find any available. Do you have a current source?

Looks like a runner!

The extra zinc is recommended for engines with mechanical (flat) lifters because it offers better wear protection for the hardened surfaces. I've used such oil in all the flat tappet engines I've run for several years (Triumph TR6, aircooled VW's, the Plymouth). Will a good conventional oil work ok? Sure, and with the low mileage we accumulate in our low-power engines it will probably be as good as the high zinc options. The cheapest house brand oil you can get at a 7-11 will be vastly superior to the oils our cars used in the olden days.

I've only seen it the one time at my local Walmart. I ordered 6 qts from Walmart.com once and it was shipped from five different stores all over the eastern US, I can't imagine what they spent on shipping. It's easier to just have Amazon drop a couple jugs on my front porch with free shipping. I used to use Valvoline VR1 racing oil for the higher zinc load but the Castrol is considerably less expensive.

This is my go-to oil for my vintage flat-tappet engines: Found it once at Walmart but now have to buy it online. https://www.amazon.com/Castrol-Classic-20W-50-Conventional-Motor/dp/B09QXWLY2Y/ref=sxts_rp_s_1_0?content-id=amzn1.sym.bf03c8c5-442d-4e66-a4e5-38dc35df3a45%3Aamzn1.sym.bf03c8c5-442d-4e66-a4e5-38dc35df3a45&cv_ct_cx=castrol+classic&keywords=castrol+classic&pd_rd_i=B09QXWLY2Y&pd_rd_r=da9e5fc1-7976-4931-bca3-a64a89a9a5cd&pd_rd_w=h3knd&pd_rd_wg=Zl0GP&pf_rd_p=bf03c8c5-442d-4e66-a4e5-38dc35df3a45&pf_rd_r=MSV7TBC6KN80YZ0R5JZR&psc=1&qid=1658775216&sprefix=castrol+clas%2Caps%2C136&sr=1-1-5e1b2986-06e6-4004-a85e-73bfa3ee44fe

The Service Manual calls out 24 psi for the bias-ply tires. Yes, these tires tend to 'track' irregularities in pavement, a characteristic that can be a little spooky for folks who have never driven anything other than radials. But that's the way it was back in the day. You have a beautiful car...enjoy!

I assumed jfish was talking about having a machine shop build a pair of hubs like Scarebird offers. Maybe he was saying he was going to get a quote for modifying his hubs.........I might have mis-read his post. I do agree that having a machine shop press in new studs while cutting down the old hubs would be the best way to modify them instead of using bolts with unknown yield strength.

I suspect a machine shop would charge far more than that to make a pair of hubs from scratch. Scarebird's vendor no doubt just loads a CAD file into their machine and hits "Start".........

Turn those blocks so the "holes" are vertical, the way they are now can lead to failure. The blocks under the front bumper look much better.