Sam Buchanan

Don't have an authentic brake tool but if you can't find one you can easily make a tool that will do the job....here is my version: Before removing the wheel drum, one minor cam adjuster is tightened enough to create noticeable drag on the drum. The drum is then removed and the brake tool is threaded onto the axle. The pointer is located over the portion of the shoe that contacted the drum which indicates the ID of the drum and adjusted for a snug fit on the shoe. If you want to get really fancy a 0.006" feeler gauge can be inserted between the pointer and s

Nick, if you are going to be wet-sanding paint you might want to hold off on the fender welting. The cutting and buffing process is pretty messy.

Don't know, I'll check. What's the deal with "lynx eye"?

That would be my guess.

Question for the historical experts: Which of these lenses is the correct one for my '48 P-15?

I don't think so............ 🤣

I went through the same process with my '48 P15. The dual circuit adapters pictured above were added to the taillight sockets along with new wiring from the front of the car. I kept the center brake light so now the car is "modern" with a third brake light. 😁 The turn signal switch I used manages interrupting the brake light on the side that is 'turn signaling'. It needs to be connected to the brake light switch so it will know when to blink a brake light. Here is a source for the dual filament adapters: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vulcan-Universal-Pigtail-Re

Cutting and buffing is a good winter project. If you use a professional buffing compound it will go much quicker than you expect. I recently rejuvenated really poor 15-year-old paint on a TR6 with 1200 wet-dry paper and this compound: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002ZQ016/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Don't sand in a circular pattern, straight lines only, and I used a lambs wool pad on a rotary buffer. If you want a really deep gloss finish up with a foam pad and polishing compound. The professional products are several steps ab

Along these lines....what would it take to draw 100-ish amps from an alternator? A dead shorted battery?? In the photo below you can see the 60a fuse I installed where the old regulator used to be. I might change it to a 35a. My alternator is rated at 60a but I've never seen the ammeter indicate more than 10-15a for a minute after a cold start with a charged battery. A semi-related story: My RV-6 has a Nippon-Denso based 35a alternator. Some idiot left the master switch on for ten days and ran the Odyssey PC680 battery dead flat. I stupidly (see

60a is more than enough capacity for our cars. The stock regulator can be eliminated or used merely for a terminal junction if you want to retain it for cosmetic reasons. Be sure you check shipping charges for a vendor you are considering. Howard Enterprises doesn't charge additional shipping. There have been recent threads about installing usb power ports, use the forum Search engine.

Howard Enterprises is the vendor I used for my 6v alternator, I'm very please with customer support and the performance of the alternator. This vendor includes shipping in the listed price. https://www.ebay.com/str/HowardEnt?_trksid=p2047675.l2563 About $140 shipped, an optional bracket is available at reasonable cost. That is all that is needed to do the conversion.

What I think is......you will most likely end up considering the alternator to be the best money you have spent on your car if you drive it often. Unless you have electric radiator fans or other high-load devices 60a should be far more than your car will ever need. My P15 gets driven about every week and after a cold start the ammeter will swing over to 10-15a for a minute until the battery is topped up then settle in at about 5a while driving. Turning on the headlights makes no significant difference in the ammeter since the alternator keeps the battery fully charged even at idle.

Practice makes perfect. 🙂 For many of us, replacing the master cylinder in one of these cars is a first-time (and hopefully last-time) experience. The removeable floorboard in my P15 is a greatly appreciated design feature.....it was wonderful while I was going through some tranny yanks and reinstalls.

For reliable starting even hot be sure you have 6v battery cables installed. They are much heavier than 12v cables because the current demand is greater. Here is what they look like: Another upgrade that removes aggravation and adds reliability is an alternator. They are available for 6v in either positive or negative ground. Battery Cables Alternators

Guess I should have said...in order to avoid my quote being taken out of context....that a 12v bulb will be dimmer on 6v than a 6v bulb with the same lumen rating.