Sam Buchanan

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Thanks! I had looked for those a couple years ago and didn't find them. I ordered a pair, will report back when I see how they fit.

It's ok if someone finds me a date, too..............

If the flanges are very straight and one new gasket is used the bolts don't have to be that tight....grade 5 should be fine. Sometimes stainless hardware is used to prevent corrosion and stainless is softer than carbon steel.

I've lubed the u-joints on the driveshaft on my P15, they work fine and the shaft runs smoothly. But I've had to replace a couple of the ball and trunnion boots which have consequently split due to the sorry quality of the aftermarket boots sold by our vendors who should know better. Yes, modern u-joints would solve the boot problem but I hate to spend large $$$'s on a new driveshaft and retire a perfectly good original driveshaft. I would love to have a pair of leather boots but have been unable to source any. I recall from the past few years some modern or universal alternatives but have forgotten the details. Anyone have up-to-date info on boots that will work with our old driveshafts?

It may just need an "Italian Tuneup"........

Here is some info I pulled together in 2019: https://p15-d24.com/topic/50484-servicing-u-joints/?tab=comments#comment-535812

I would skip the Mickey Mouse approach and install a 6v alternator. When/if you decide to move to 12v you can sell the 6v alternator to someone on the forum who has gotten disgusted with trying to get their generator/regulator to work.

Don't set the radiator cap on top of the radiator while the engine is running! When it falls off into the fan, damages a couple of fan blades, the fan disintegrates due to imbalance and distributes shrapnel around the shop......you will have a memorable day. Engine sounds good--might be due to the video audio but sounds like it is idling kinda fast.

Rock Auto offers manuals and parts books in either hard copy or CD: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10593924&cc=1486874&pt=10335&jsn=377 https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=14711425&cc=1486874&pt=10335&jsn=381

Who knows....just connect it so it works.

No problem at all with using both gauges at the same time. The voltmeter just needs one wire connected to the car's battery voltage and one wire for ground. It doesn't care if an ammeter is being used. I connected mine to the switched terminal of the ignition switch. In your diagram it could be either red wire at the ignition switch.

Potential problems could be solved by getting rid of the ammeter. Leave it in the panel if wanted for aesthetics but don't connect it. Add a voltmeter, much, much safer and useful. Here is the one in my P15 located under the dash, semi-hidden by the steering column. I installed it while trouble-shooting the generator and regulator before I got fed up with them and tossed them for the one-wire alternator. The voltmeter is so useful I just left it in place. I still have the ammeter because it works but won't hesitate to retire it if it gives any problems....would only require putting both wires on the same post. This is showing the battery being charged at 7.2v at idle (verified with digital multimeter) with the headlights on. Alternators rock.

I hope you have better luck with a local shop than I did. A local shop could cut the glass but it was going to cost much more than the vendor I used and linked above. I added pencil grind to the laminated glass which the local shop didn't offer. Maybe your shops will have better service. Total cost with shipping from Sanders was $76 for the driver door glass.

Ken, it is totally stock per the Mopar engineers. Here is a scan from the service manual. But regardless of how it works....mine is busted. 😁