Sam Buchanan

There is nothing like B/W prints made from a large-format (4x5 or larger) negative. Georgous.

I don't recall what size fittings but they are the same as found on brake lines with "American" (not metric) threads. No need to order this stuff, just source it from a local auto parts store as needed. That way you can return items that either don't fit or you don't need. I plumbed the entire fuel and brake systems on my P15 with brake lines purchased locally.

Then there is the rubber hose held to your ear method.....

If the linkage or shift forks are messed up it probably wasn't in neutral.....may have been freewheeling in a gear until whatever it is popped and sent power to the rear end.

I suspect you have a freshly rebuilt engine. The fact it wasn't in a vehicle probably means it has no mileage. Good score!

If what you have is working well then that's all you need. The only point I will make in regard to your post is that 0 gauge cables are not expensive and are readily available. I used this vendor and had my custom-made cables in about a week. Two battery cables, a chassis ground cable and a starter cable were $40 shipped to my door. https://www.batterycablesusa.com/1-0-gauge-battery-cables-0-awg

I think metal lines would be more prone to vapor lock than rubber lines. See if you can get your filter farther from the exhaust manifold, having it that close is most likely heating the fuel.

To assist someone who isn't concerned with originality, here are the sills I made from running board rubber. The front is the new one, the rear either original or a reproduction. I can't find the eBay vendor where I bought the material but here is something similar. https://www.ebay.com/itm/200416841509?hash=item2ea9c64f25:g:-FsAAMXQ9MVRhdZx I bought material wide enough to split to make two sills. The original, rusted metal sills were removed and aluminum sheet riveted in their place. The rubber was glued to the aluminum.

I wanted to make sure the cover didn't leak so went bonkers when sealing it back up with fuel tank sealant. The large gasket should seal the bore the shift rail rides in but I took extra care sealing the gasket in that area. It worked.

I run the cheapest 87 that has been contaminated with ethanol and my '48 P15 is happy. More importantly I usually only put in 4-5 gallons to keep the gas fresher. There are no problems with mixing different octanes in the same tank.

I'm not worried about the switch, I have a method for quickly bypassing it. Guess this goes back to my aircraft building background where we try to eliminate as many single-point failure modes as possible. But the most dangerous single-failure point in our cars is the nut holding the steering wheel....... 😁 This guy had it figured out a hundred years ago: You know you've achieved perfection in design, not when you have nothing more to add, but when you have nothing more to take away. --Antoine de Saint-Exupery

The switch is Ford but there are also generic ones available. Here is the Ford switch I used: https://www.ebay.com/itm/233966503511?fits=Make%3AFord&epid=1817778782&hash=item36797d8657:g:uLIAAOSwzIVZcyS4 I have mixed feelings about the inertia switch, not fully convinced it is really an advantage. It creates a single point of failure in an electrical pump only system. I wired mine with male-female connectors where if it fails open I can unplug the wires and replug them bypassing the switch but it has been reliable so far. If in a minor accident, just reach over

Same here except no dash switch. Pump is located on frame near rear axle. The polarity of the car makes no difference, a pump can be wired either way. The inertia switch is a personal decision, I ran the pump for a year before deciding to install one. Mine is on the firewall.

All of the classic car policies I've had have been based on agreed value with no funky clauses....that is why I buy them instead of just adding the classic cars to my daily driver policy. I'm one of those OCD types that actually reads the policy. 😆 I'm not familiar with policies that have stated value or some rinky dink definition of agreed value....I wouldn't pay anything for one of those.

Rich, go back and reread my post carefully. I said "due to one being actual cash value and the other agreed value". The F150 (a 2013 pickup truck) is actual cash value and the classic car policy is agreed value. I am very clear on how these two coverages apply. The following is a quote from the definitions page of my policy: "Agreed Value means the value of the vehicle at the inception date of the policy that you and we agree on. You agree that we may change this amount when the policy is renewed to reflect current costs and values." I'm thinkin