Sam Buchanan

Excellent. My cables are also red/positive and neg/black.

Getting a pretty high reading on the Grumpometer......... 🙄

https://www.oldmoparts.com/

If you don't already have the proper size battery cables in excellent condition, go ahead and upgrade. The alternator and cables will make your charging system as good as it can possibly be. Excellent source for cables is BatterycablesUSA.

Does the distributor shaft have any lateral play in it? Bushing may be worn out letting the shaft wander enough to misfire.

Measure the battery voltage with the engine off and if you see around 6.5v the battery is holding a good charge.

I'll say this again......a cheap multimeter (I use the Habba Fright meter all the time) can show flaky voltage readings due to ignition noise on our charging systems. I've seen it and the charging system in my car (alternator) is rock solid. The noise is sufficient to make the little LED I use for the turn signal indicator flicker all the time. I pulled up to my friend's hangar when he had his aircraft radio turned on and you wouldn't believe the racket my P15 was transmitting to his poor radio (non-resistor plugs and solid copper wires). Drive your car. If the battery stays charged the alternator is doing what it is supposed to be doing.

If you are using a digital multimeter you may get jerky readings. Sometimes the digital meter and alternator voltage regulator don't get along very well. If you have an analog meter it may give a steady reading. The lights may be getting brighter with a disconnected battery because the alternator is trying to charge a very dead battery....... The battery serves as a sump to dampen voltage surges...I wouldn't mess around with a disconnected battery with the solid-state regulator in the alternator. The needle is showing more current with lights on because.......the lights are drawing more current........that is what an ammeter does.....

Keep that welder humming...or sizzlin'...or sparking....or whatever...... 😊

This is referred to as "thread creep"........this forum is renowned for our ability to drive a thread off the rails. 🤣

After painting myself into this corner I cut a slot in the alternator (generator) bracket so it could be slipped over the bolt instead of having to remove the bolt. The bracket is under compression so cut the slot so tightening the belt will push the bracket against the bolt.

The one-wire alternator I have starts charging immediately after start. I agree that it is a reliable solution to keeping the battery fully charged in our old cars under all conditions. A hot battery and the proper cables solves a lot of starting issues! 😁

Excellent! The only reason for keeping a generator/regulator is for originality. Operationally, the alternator is superior in every way.

In far less time that it would take to figure our how to redo an alternator, this reliable vendor can have an alternator that is ready to bolt to your car at your door in 3-4 days: https://www.ebay.com/str/HowardEnt?_trksid=p2047675.l2563 I have had flawless service from the alternator I purchased from Howard. Notice their price includes shipping which is an extra $40 with some vendors. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tractor-car-6-volt-60-amp-1-wire-alternator-Positive-Ground-w-Bracket-pulley/333591006902?hash=item4dab92ceb6:g:Y~QAAMXQobdQ7d68

Not every old Plymouth..... 😊