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desoto1939

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desoto1939 last won the day on March 26

desoto1939 had the most liked content!

About desoto1939

  • Rank
    Zen Master, I breathe vintage mopar!
  • Birthday 05/25/1951

Contact Methods

  • AIM
    desoto1939@aol.com
  • Biography
    Have bicycled across the USA in 1976 from Williamaburg Vir to San Fransico Ca
  • Occupation
    retired software Quality Assurance analyst

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Valley Forge, PA
  • Interests
    Colleting old Cross reference catalogs to support the antique Moapr cars and Trucks Have scanned these an put on Compact disks. Bicycle collecting and Bicycle touring
  • My Project Cars
    1939 Desoto 4 Door Sedan that has been judged as HPOF with the AACA.

Converted

  • Location
    Valley Forge PA
  • Interests
    own a 1939 Desoto 4 dr sedan

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  1. great find and a great price as you know by the ebay prices I hope you ran after stealing it. There are still good buys at the swap meets when you know your parts. Rich HArtung desoto1939@aol.com
  2. this is called a hear riser to control sending warm air up to the base of the carb during winter and very cold starting it prevents the base of the carb from icing up. the big item is the counter weight and the spring is what helps to put and release the tension on the flate plate that is installed betweenthe two halves of the manifold. Rich Hartung
  3. i have the same tube of choke or throttle cable with the molded plastic button. I pulled the button with the old broken cable out of the wire metal casing. You will then see how the metal tube can be opened very carefully to expose the inner part of the pull knob tube. I then took a new choke cable that I purcahsed at a local auto store cut the end off and then inserted it into the opening or slot inthe tube and then peened it over and made sure it was roundish and then put the unit back together. You will have to study your unit but it can be done. I did this on my 39 Desoto Rich Hartung
  4. the heat or temp gage is what I think you are talking about. Yes there isa capilaary bulb and the end of the tube and this goes into a hole on the side of the head of your engine. The bulb goes into the hole that is threaded and then watet temp degress then increase or decress the fluid inthe bulb to register the engine temp. Be very careful not to break the tube then all of the fluid inthe tube will be lost. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com
  5. remember to put some boiling water into the radiator so the antifrezze does not freeze. Rich Hartung
  6. First question is does the engine have an oil filter already on the engine? It could be the old style oil can style that is a throw-away metal all inone unit could be a fram PB1/2 or other brand or does it have the canister style inwhich there is a bolt on the lid that you unscrew and the lid comes off and there isa drop in oil filter. Need to answer the above question first. If there is no oil filter then I would stay with a straight weight motor oil 30 weight NON-Detergent. If you use a 10w-30W oil which is a detergent oil there isa good possibility that particles of the built up sludge in the bottom of th eoil pan will become lose and then get into the oil passages and can make a mess with the engine and since there is not filter even more issues. If there isa n oil filter check the filter element and replace then you could use 10w-30. remember that when using a detergent oil the oil will turn black sooner because of the cleaning agents. So the decision is up to you. You then might ask what oil brand to use. This is a persoannal choice on your part. The motor oils of today are so much better that when in the 40-50's. So any brand off the self even the walmart store brand will be fine. Some people use diesal oil because of the zzdp additive for the flat tappets Thats another issue all on its own. If you rebuild your enigine then would suggest that you use a breakin oil during the iintial startup and the zddp additive to help with the flat tappets since the internal parts would be so clean and to eliniate any wear issues. Others wil chime in on this topic. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com
  7. The unit you are showing is a sission automatic choke and it sits on top the manifold. The rod is attached to the choke value on the top of the carter carb. There is a wire that comes off the starter selinoid to power the unit when the car is started. The gasket is required to be under the base of the unit. The choke is an electro magnetic choke that when the temp is cold the bi-metal plate under the body will set the choke to close on the carb. As the engine warms up the sring get heated and then slowly releases the tension and the choke thn opens up. These chokes are very expensive when found asa NOS unit running from 175-almoSt $300. dO NOT BEND THE BI METAL PLATE. There isa special way to setup this choke and if you have a service manual on your car it will explain the set procedure. If you basically live in a warm weather climate all year round you can get away without having the choke setup but if you get any cold weather this helps with col starting procedures. I can explain more in detail if you contact me directly Someone downloaded the presentation that I did at the AACA annual meeting look this over and then ask questions. rich hartung Desoto1939@aol.com
  8. Soth122003: Great minds thinl alike. Glad to see that someone else was thinking the same things as me. Waiting to hear back from the original poster with his updates. Sounds as if he might have the wrong pump or there isa blocked line being my first to quesses. Rich Hartung
  9. The first question is what is the manufacturer of the fuel pump also what is the fuelpump number that you installed? Did you get any number off of the old fuel pump such as 588 etc. Is this a NOS fp and by this I mean was it listed as a new old stock and might have been sitting for years or a rebuilt pump that is not enthanol refurbish to use the ethanol fuels. The old ones do not support this newer fuel and the rubber diaphrams get destroyed. Did you install it inthe correct position. You might also have a clogged fuel line. Blow compressed air back down the fueling at the front of the engine where the rubber fuel line connects to the FP. Have someone take the gas cap off and listen to hear if you hear any air coming out of the gas tank. If no air sound then might be a clogged fuel line. If you get air sounds checkthe rubber hose that connects to the fp it could be so old that it is colapsing aDN NEED TO REPLACE THIS RUBBER HOSE. Did the car run prior to this issue or has it been sitting for a long time. We need more information, but the above might get you started again. Rich HArtung desoto1939@aol.com
  10. I run 10w-40 oil in my rebuilt engine and have done this since the engine was rebuilt. Use regular 10w_40 oil right off the self. Do recomend that you use a good breakin oil when fireing up the car for the first time after a total rebuild or even partial rebuild. I have owned my car for over 32 years and have the bypass drop in filter. The car originally came with the PB1/2 trough away filter but changed to the metal canister when these old PB1/2 got to expensive. I do not run any synthtic oils in the car still old regular oil and lubrications GL1 in in trans GL5 in rear and sterring. Still not sure onthe ZDDP but a little STP can also help on a rebuild. Just my 25 cents worth of input Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com
  11. This is rich witht he 39 Desoto. The pictures of the manual choke are not factory. Your car would have come with the sisson choke installed and would have bolted down to the top of the manifold exactly where the other unit is bolted to the top of the manifold. I have several NOS of these chokes and they have been tested on the factory Sisson choke testing stand. Yes if you go on ebay you will see prices that are out the door, they are not cheap. I also have the sisson choke manual and several other sisson choke literature if needed. Contact me if you are interested. If you are having the car AACA judged then it will lose major points for this setup that you have installed The top picture is the factory testing stand the second picture is the choke setup on my 39 Desoto and the third picture is of the factory tools used to setup and adjust the sisson chokes. rich desoto1939@aol.com
  12. I looked at the pictures of the old and new correct rotor. I do not know how the car even ran becasue the contact point of the new end of the rotor is longer that the old incorrect one and how did it make any contact with the appropriate sparkplug contact inside the old cap. This is why collecting the old cross reference catalogs as so important to make sure you have the proper working equipment for your car. If you had purcahsed the Autolite catalog that I have then you would know all of the various Autolite items for your car and would be able to get the car running properly. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com
  13. I keep my extinguisher onthe floor in the back seating area onthe driver side of the car. So if a fire i just open the front door open the driver side rear door and grab i The best thing to do is turn the extinguisher upside down and then tap it lightly with a hammer to loosenup the powder. Do this every six months. This is what a members of my local club told us to do and he is on their volunteer fire compnay. Keep the extinguisher in a place that is eacy to reach not in your trunk. Need to be able to get to it in a matter of seconds not a minute or more. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com
  14. What is the carb number that is stamped into the airhorn flange. Also what is the distrubutor Number IGS-xxxxx You can get a NOS breaker plate assembly and drop that into the dizzy and then rebuild your old breaker plate. There are two bronze bushings that can be replaced but the entire dizzy needs to be taken apart to drive them out and back into the body of the dizzy. Maybe rebuild the advance springs and weights New cap and rotor I might have a Complete Carter Carb Rebuild kit with all of the internal small parts but need to know the carb number and also the dizzy number. You can rebuild the carb yourself and if just replacing the breaker plate you can do that yourself and also set the points gap. This is very easy to do when the dizzy is out of the car. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com Cell 484-431-8157 Home 610-630-9188
  15. Since you live across the pond the first thing that I suggest that you purchase is a parts manual for your car because this will answer you question and will also answer your question when looking for other parts. A parts manual and a service manual are the two basic manuals that every antique car owner needs to have available when restoring or working on an antique car. You do not need an original there are numerous photo copies that can be purchased. I am not trying to be mean with this answer but if you already had the book you would know the answer to your question. Rich
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