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  1. 2 points
    Sniper

    Mid Michigan flood

    I spent years living on the water, but it was in a US Navy destroyer, lol.
  2. 2 points
    as an added and in case you get an inexperienced counter attendant...(notice I did not say parts agent).....Napa stock this in their inventory under part number 65-201
  3. 2 points
    GL1 is readily available at NAPA..if not in stock is in their inventory and available on an overnight....maybe same day if you get there early....it is gallon container but relax, that gallon is better priced than many quarts of other similar lubes....I bought a gallon not long back for under 17.00
  4. 2 points
    BBQ 2020 is in the past, the future is now........I'M READY FOR BBQ #14 2021 BROTHER!!! Lets hope we get through the year with our health intact, and our jobs sound! Here's to friends!!!! Tim aka 48Dodger
  5. 2 points
    I would like to comment on this installation. First off it looks like you did a first class job on it. Bravo! As far as adjustments go I think what you did is just fine. In reality you may make a few adjustments early on to get the correct balance in your braking system. But once you have got it where you want it you won't actually need to touch it. I have had my truck in daily use for over 5 years now and have not had to make any further adjustments. Of course I don't race it....but it has been used more than most trucks here. Hth, Jeff
  6. 2 points
    Tooljunkie

    Lets see pic of your trucks

    So my up and coming truck.made the deal yesterday.
  7. 2 points
    Worden18

    Me and the B-1-D

    10-4-19: Tomorrow I will move the truck one space closer to the Meadowbrook. I might slide it over on wheel dollies as there is no garage door there. 4 car garage, 3 doors 😁. I'll need to park my work car where the truck is now. Getting close to window scraping weather here. BTW fellas, there was nothing under the seat!
  8. 2 points
    Don Coatney

    Door Adjustment

    Joe; Billy Austin just sent me this short film clip on door adjustment. It's a great example of the body wedge fulcrum method. The language the mechanics use is a bit raunchy but there technique is effective. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3p58wHX4e0g
  9. 1 point
    Bdblazer1978

    Starting my B2C restoration.

    We're planning on keeping it stock except the brakes. Since this is my first restoration and first old truck, I'm with you and it's a lot safer to be able to reference the manual. The disk brakes were relatively easy. Because it's a 3/4 ton I've had to make a couple modifications. I'm having custom brake hoses made and I ordered wheel adaptors so I can run the original wheels. No idea on previous work to the engine. This is my first re-build so I'm reading a lot and asking the machine shop a ton of questions.
  10. 1 point
    DJ194950

    MOPAR 604 Radio Removal

    Pull the front control Knobs off, I believe you will find a nut under each side that has to be removed to free the radio from the front speaker/radio bezel. All fun? DJ
  11. 1 point
    kridgleyud

    1940 Dodge D14 Build Thread

    Hello everyone. I wanted to start a one-place thread to update the group on this build. I have a couple little threads out there, but this one will tell the story (comedy or tragedy, we'll see) on the breathing new life into my 1940 Dodge D14. To tell the story, we have to rewind to 2008 ... that is when I sold my 1973 Stingray. The wife and I then got a boat ... and you know what they say about those. Fast forward through 7 years or so of nagging her until she finally caved and agreed to get another car ... her only requirement, it needed to have 4 doors ... done. I knew I wanted to get a prewar car and I started this adventure in 2015 looking to get a 1937 Desoto. The deal fell through the day I was going to pick it up - the seller decided not to sell it/ or sold it to someone else, I'll never know now. A few weeks went by and I found this 1940 gem for sale in Pennsylvania ... called the guy and went right out to take a look. Here are the photos when we looked at it/brought it home back in 2015. Cutting it close on the prewar era and some say it;s not ... but it was made by the US in the US and we were still technically not IN the war until 41 ... that's my story!
  12. 1 point
    keithb7

    First flathead!

    I found this drawing of a '48 Plymouth. Is your Desoto the same? I see a hood latch cable here too.
  13. 1 point
    westaus29

    1938 Aussie 7 Passenger Plymouth

    I have visited this site a few times in the past but recently started again and have been impressed with the activity, the assistance offered and the relevance to my interests. I currently have a 1929 Plymouth tourer with body by Holden Australia restored on club licence since 1999, a 1955 Plymouth Belvedere Suburban RHD built in Detroit with 259 V8 and 2 speed auto also on club licence, and a 1938 7 passenger Plymouth with Aussie Richards body, in a million pieces. This my first attempt at a post with pics so hope it works. I purchased the '38 running and licensed in Feb 1981 with the plan of having a car I could use for club events while I slowly rebuilt my 1929 Plymouth from a wreck. It was painted black, the engine barely ran and the leather upholstery was falling apart, but we drove it onto the trailer under its own steam. I cant find any pictures of it as bought but I must have been dazzled by the fact it was a 7 passenger and had all its chrome and fittings. There was no water in the radiator and It turned out the engine had a hole in the head above No 1 cylinder, every pot had broken rings, and water had corroded the bearings, crank and camshaft. The bottom of each centre door post was rusted out, and there was rust in the boot (trunk) area. By July 1982 I had it on the road with new paint (Ford Neptune Blue), new tyres and a temporary engine out of a 1936 Dodge utility (pickup) that we found abandoned up in the hills, and sheets tacked over rebuilt seat frames. My daughter in the pic below is now 41! In the next couple of years I fixed oil leaks, replaced spring bushings, brakes and wheel bearings and changed the diff from original 7 passenger 4.3 to standard 4.1 ratio as we tend to travel longish distances. By 1984 I was ready to replace the interior with upholstery in original blue leather. When I stripped the hood lining I discovered I had serious rust issues under the lead used in large quantities on the roof, which was fabricated from a standard roof cut in half with a central insert about 18 inches wide. The repairs were completed by Nov 1985 and the car was back on the road, however the upholstery guy was no longer available. In 1988 we had a surprise addition to the family, a baby girl after 17 year drought! The upholstery money went on adding a bedroom. In the meantime the car was used as a daily driver by my wife on the school run - rule was "no running in the car"! By 1995 the brake lines had rusted thru, the radiator had collapsed for the second time, the exhaust was shot, valves keep sticking and to cap it off I backed it into our Falcon wagon and badly dented the boot. I deregistered it in disgust as by that time I was making progress on the 29. Fast forward to 2012 and we have changed address, I now have 1/2 acre and a 5 bay shed. However to fit the 7 passenger in it I had to remove the front clip. The car is now a mobile storage unit for surfboards, wetsuits and a couple of broken chairs. But it still runs! I plan to post an outline of the rebuild process which started in 2012, but here is a recent pic of the body on a home made rotisserie - stripping back roof to bare metal after a VERY bad sand blast and prime job. Jim
  14. 1 point
    Conn47D24

    D-24 Body and Paint

    I've tried to match Panama Sand off an old color chart. Sort of beige.
  15. 1 point
    keithb7

    Recommended transmission fluid

    Putting my β€˜38 tranny back together today. I’ll try the Redline MTL.
  16. 1 point
    Midwestmopar

    Tips on buying a new to me mopar

    Well the car made a 240 mile trip home Friday, then its driven about 40-70 more miles since that trip. The car is doing great. I put it on a lift today to check out the underneath. Turns out its pretty solid.
  17. 1 point
    I have been searching for threads that I have read before about which axle to use. But, today I couldn't fine the information I wanted. Can we generate a list of axles that make a good swap. Don, I know about the list of old mopar cars, I'm looking for the years of Dakota, ranger, explorer and others that may be less than 30-years-old.
  18. 1 point
    minicooper

    ANSWERED Tailgate support bracket

    My 52 3/4 ton still sports the original bed. The support bracket goes under the shovel strip so that it’s the same level as the other strips. The bed wood has quite a deep route for it. The tailgate on my B3C, however, has been modified with an opening for a grain slot, so the bracket offers no support. -roland
  19. 1 point
    desoto1939

    More Miller Factory Tools

    I just acquired several more Miller Factory Tools and will try to post the pictures of the tools. C-604 for all Dodge,Des, Chry and Ply hydraulically operated Trans. Trans reverse idler gear shift puller C-609 for all fluid drive equiped cars. This is the clutch driven plate aligning Arbor C-625 this is a partila set of tools runner hub bearing and bushing puller C-714 For all Dod, Des, Chry and Ply hydraulicially operated trans. Transmission poston return spring compressor. C-716 for 1946-53 Dod,Des and Chry Hydraulically operated trans. Trans countershaft needle bearing assembly arbor C-745 for all Ply,Dod, Des and Chry Sixes.This is the rear axle shft oil seal installing Sleeve. Not to be used on the Eight and 7 passenger cars DD-286 or c-3181 for all models. Clutch shaft pilot bushing installing and burning tool. Now I have both tools the DD and the C Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com.
  20. 1 point
    keithb7

    New Car Day! 1938 P6 Plymouth Deluxe

    I did some more reading and looked at my tranny closer again. I think I can answer my own question here about clutch gear wear. See the little brass squares in the pic above? These contact the cone shaped ramp on the adjacent gear. As the sliding synchro ring slides toward the neighbouring gear, the brass area rides up the ramp. As it engages, it speeds up or slows down, to match the rotating speed of the adjacent gear that it is engaging. My brass squares are worn pretty good. Then the speed does not match as well as it should. Then the gears grab and grind a little when they engage. This synchro is only used in gears 2 and 3. I found a new, original Chrysler, still in the box clutch gear assembly on Ebay today for $80. Seemed like deal to me. My tranny getting a new synchromesh. The ramp area on the adjacent gear is the shiny polished ring seen in the pick below. The green arrow pointing at it. I think I am on the right track here. Your comments are welcome. Thanks.
  21. 1 point
    DJ194950

    Necessity of Bench Bleeding?

    Come on all- fess up- have we all not found that out- After the fact!! 😲 I know I did-several times over the years- Oh ya, Now - I remember that happens with the cap left off! πŸ™ƒ DJ
  22. 1 point
    The plugs were all wet/damp when I checked them a couple of days ago. It had run fine right before I changed the oil and filter last October and then it didn't seem to want to fire at all. It is probably flooded right now. I'll have to check this out. Thanks
  23. 1 point
    It can sit there for a long time on a cold engine....it will be a puddle if down there....plugs can be will be wet or dry ...I have been thru this,,,worth checking out. I understand maybe a weak spark but it did run fine till it sat and incorrect after sitting start procedure can get you into this situation. If it is flooded... leave the throttle open for few hours or a day...put throttle back to closed .... a pump or too and try cranking it... hopefully it will start up.
  24. 1 point
    Did the engine run before you pulled the distributor? Did you install a new distributor cap? When your all set at TDC for #1 cylinder (top of compression stroke), where is the distributor rotor "pointing"? If all is set up correctly the rotor should be pointing to approximately the 7 o'clock position with respect to the distributor body. Then the #1 plug wire should come off the cap tower above the rotor and up to the #1 plug. Then clockwise rotation to other plugs in 153624 order as you stated. If however the oil pump was removed and then not properly indexed when reinstalled the rotor position could be somewhere else other than the 7 o'clock position. This is no real big deal as long as #1 plug wire comes off the tower above the rotor.
  25. 1 point
    I had one sit a long time like that and rusted the top 1/2 of the ring gear. It made a wow wow wow noise . It was not real loud but enough that I had to replace it.
  26. 1 point
    kencombs

    Unrestored vs restored controversy

    quote from someone in my past, don't even remember who when I asked what I should do about something: Whatever makes you happy just tickles me plumb to death. His message: Do what makes you happy. The results don't impact me at all.
  27. 1 point
    John H.

    Front brake drum questions.

    I guess that's what happens when you're working on an old vehicle. Every owner has made their mark somewhere along the line. I'm just going to take my time, photograph everything, and take notes. Again, I appreciate the help and input, and I wish you all well with all of the crap that's going on. John.
  28. 1 point
    Eneto-55

    Unrestored vs restored controversy

    All interesting comments. I just react against the idea that I am "only the caretaker" of my old car, not the "owner". As I said, I DO like to see an original car, but I am not interested in creating some sort of museum piece that I don't dare drive. That's another thing about getting a real low mileage car - you almost can't drive it much at all, because its main "claim to fame" is that it is low mileage. When I bought my 46, it already had over 91,000 on it. I just want to make it as reliable as I can, and if that means some modifications then I'll do that (but then again, nothing drastic like a modern drive line, or a frame graft). I'd like to be able to redo the interior with some fabric that at least looks close to the original mohair, but at this point, I'm thinking more about trying to find something that looks like the typical seat covers of that era, because that's what I remember as being in almost every car my folks had when I was growing up. (To put that in context, my memories start in the very late 50's, when I was 4 or 5.)
  29. 1 point
    MackTheFinger

    Show your tools.

    This only sorta qualifies as a mechanic's tool. Front side is a regular measuring stick. Anybody recognize the back side of this rule? I used one of these every day at work for over 35 years. Almost felt like I needed one in my hip pocket when I wasn't at work..
  30. 1 point
    Earl Gray

    ANSWERED Gyromatic is Stuck

    Very helpful. Thank you! I disconnected the battery many times while trying to get the wiring right (cross-referenced post below) that it most likely reset it then. Good to know a solid solution. Thanks again!
  31. 1 point
    Plymouthy Adams

    Carburetor/choke problems

    the choke body is a solenoid in and of itself that is activated by a wire from the starter motor or at the motor relay contactor.....if you do not have a wire from the starter to the little electrical solenoid on the manifold.....test to see why...this could well be damaged or just left off because the last guy did not understand how it operated. Check the solenoid with a good VOM then test it electrically with a jumper...if all is well, set the unit up with the jumper and manually lock the position with the carb linkage....once that is confirmed....run you wire normal from the starter and go about starting your car proper procedure. These work excellent when set up and allowed to operate by the user.... ADDED NOTE......when connecting a wire the tab requires a rather short screw...you do not want to go through this tab and hit the manifold and cause a dead short...this may be why it was disconnected as the PO did not understand all of the proceedings.
  32. 1 point
    The factory valve will be too much for disc brakes, been there - done that. Remove it and try without any valve, you may be pleasantly surprised as I was years ago.
  33. 1 point
    IMO glass and rubber first (siding with JB on this one). Less chance of mucking up the interior stuff dinking around with the glass. IMO easy to put the interior into the slot in the rubber than to try and get 2 things to engage at once.
  34. 1 point
    Andydodge

    Time for an overhaul...

    Beebe......I too have just reread the entire thread and still get info and enjoyment out of it............its 12 months since your last post, how have things panned out re the engine rebuild and the possible turbo install?...........I trust you are going o/k and again thanks for all the effort in posting this thread......regards from Oz.........andyd
  35. 1 point
    greg g

    Time for an overhaul...

    Just read this thread. The step up valves are entering he equation of afr at cruise because the total vacuum signal that held one valve closed is now being shared by each carb. So each carb is getting half or 1/3 of the single carb signal meaning that the spring tension will not be completely overcome leaving valves partially opened when they would normally be closed at steady level road cruise.
  36. 1 point
    Worden18

    Me and the B-1-D

    10-4-19: Finally got the truck running again and moved into my garage from the barn. Took me forever as usual. My son kept me company. The points were out of adjustment. The carb linkage is sticking too, causing the engine to rev. I kept it down by pulling the choke out. I'll figure it out. Main thing is that I got the truck moved. I feel good about that. Now I can get it up on blocks and work on the brakes among other things. I have a special plan for some patina'd lettering. It's gonna be really cool. πŸ˜‰ Pic 1: still stuck in the barn. 😐 Pics 2 & 3: in the garage!
  37. 1 point
    Worden18

    Me and the B-1-D

    My son wanted to put the license plate on, so I let him do that.
  38. 1 point
    48ply1stcar

    ANSWERED SUCESSFUL REAR AXLE SWAPS.

    I think this is what your looking for.
  39. 1 point
    Thank you guys! I appreciate the illustration and the tip with the longer end bolts! Here is a picture of my 49, Its my first Mopar!
  40. 1 point
    dpollo

    bed wood for 1/2 ton

    I have a 52 and I made new box planks from local west coast fine grained fir. The original wood was some sort of eastern hardwood which in fact seemed pretty soft. I have not had the truck out in the wet so I do not know yet if the fir will cup but I have sealed it pretty thoroughly. The thickness is 7/8 and the grooves for the box strips which I bought from Mar K can all be cut on a tablesaw. What surprised me is that the outer planks are tapered as the box is actually one inch wider at the tailgate than at the front panel. I do not know if all trucks are that way but mine certainly is which means I have to re make the outer planks. The truck is not at my home now so I cannot give you dimensions other than the thickness. I can recommend MarK for their box strips and bolt kit. They probably sell wood too . Have a look at their on line catalog.
  41. 1 point
    mopar_earl

    1949 Plymouth Deluxe Help

    Nicopp is ment for brake tubing. It won't rust/corrode like metal. It's easier to bend and flare than stainless. It can be bought anywhere. I used nicopp on my car for the brake lines and fuel lines. I also used stainless steel flare nuts. I used dot 5 brake fluid. So yes, it's safe and legal to use nicopp! Actually it's a smart thing to do. Copper is and will always be unsafe and illegal to use for brakes! Just like compression fittings. Earl
  42. 1 point
    I took me almost as long to find this thread as it did to find 2 x Australian 2001 $1 coins for you Tim. I'll even hand-deliver them to you in April 2014 !!
  43. 1 point
    JBNeal

    Basic Engine Info

    Thoughts on Mopar Flatheads 1 Thoughts on Mopar Flatheads 2 Thoughts on Mopar Flatheads 3 Links to Building Threads Experience Builders Flathead Gotchas Spark Plugs Engine Oil Engine Oil Filter Engine Oil Filter Installation
  44. 1 point
    I was inspired by the upcoming holiday and knowing that its going to rain this weekend, I decided to get off early and finish putting my dash back together. B1Bkeven fixed up my speedo and gauges for me and they look great. Thanks again Keven. I also decided to finally wire up my 802 I bought from Reg a year or so ago. Now I'm ready for baseball season on the radio. Go Giants! I wish you and yours a very merry WOYCTD!
  45. 1 point
    Well, I got out of school and got a bit done on my truck today. I finished all the "rough" filler work, and threw some high build on to see where I'm at. The roof actually looks good to go, it looks like GLASS, but I found some spots on the cab I never felt or saw before, but I guess that's what the high builds for, to see all the issue spots and blocking out.
  46. 1 point
    TodFitch

    218 Oil Filter question

    http://www.ply33.com/Parts/group10#1121694
  47. 1 point
    PatS....

    Door Adjustment

    Not sure if you have seen this or not: http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Lit/Master/025/cover.htm 35 page booklet from Mopar called "Body Fitting Facts"
  48. 1 point
    cwcars88

    Door Adjustment

    Is it possible that there is nothing wrong with the door, but the front fender is what needs to be adjusted?
  49. 1 point
    Plymouthy Adams

    Show your tools.

    there is more to a man that the tool he uses..just where is this one heading
  50. 1 point
    Merle Coggins

    Fuel Sending Unit

    Under the seat there should be a round plug in the floor. Pop that plug out and you will have access to the sending unit. Merle By the way... When I put my sending unit in I added a grounding terminal to assure that the sender was properly grounded. I drilled a hole through the plate and put a machine screw up from the bottom with a little Permetex sealer. I then use a second nut to attach my ground wire, which runs to one of the trans cover bolts. I dont' have to worry about counting on the ground through the mounting flange and the tank attachments.
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