Sniper

My work one is a Fluke. I think my personal one is a Sunray? I dunno had for 20+ years now and I'm not digging it out right now, lol. IR guns can be inaccurate as to a specific value but can be useful for comparisons of similar metals. Used to do IR inspections of the substation at the cement plant I worked at. Still do them today on electrical connections for work. If you really want to know the details, lol. https://reliabilityweb.com/articles/entry/a-practical-guide-to-emissivity-in-infrared-inspections

I am running one of those for my bluetooth amp. Seems if the voltage gets too high, much above an actual 12v, it will shut down to protect itself. Poor design for that application. Anyway, it works fine but it's not going to give you more voltage than you put into it. So while you can feed it 6v you aren't going to get 12v out of it, at least not mine.

Thanks for the update. I know gluing cars together is common with some (most?) OEM's these days. Wonder why it failed? Surface prep maybe? Old glue? I was at NAPA the other day looking for weatherstrip glue, this was when I redid my cowl vent seal. Most of the stuff on the hook was expired. I got one that wasn't, it was the one in the front too. I guess no one rotates the stock. Same deal at the grocery store, GF likes almond milk and the only one I could find there, well each one was expired, some months expired. Never count on someone else to look out for you is my philosophy.

I vented earlier today, but that was at the grocery store, lol. As I age I am more and more fond of checklists. Must be the military coming back to haunt me. When I run across something like this I add it to the list. One day it might help me. Thanks for the heads up.

Not sure this thread isn't too confusing to sort out, lol .

I picked up a Thickstun dual 1bbl intake and am going with dual throttle body fuel injection on it. http://www.yourolddad.com/efi-mechanical

And some of the worst offenders have moved on. While I am not a fan of Ford engines in general I am of the camp that it is your car, do with it as you please and if the occasion every arises that I feel so offended by your plans for your car I'll make you an offer that will entice you to sell to me me so I can "save it". Never happened and never will though.

Part of the twice yearly tuneup. Where I grew up you'd do a tune up in the fall to set things up for the coming winter and a tune up in the spring to set things up for the summer. Checking dwell was part of it. Where I live now, in addition to not having to shovel snow, I only have to do a yearly tuneup.

Since that threaded plug is 1 1/4 UNEF it might be cheaper to go jfish/Sam's route than trying to find and buy that die ($151 from MSC), lol. If I had a lathe and I knew how to cut threads on it then maybe I'd go that route, it does seem more elegant. Now if someone tooled up to run a batch of those blocks I'd buy one.

Genius, only thing I would add is wear a dust mask. Fine dust, of any sort, in your lungs is a bad thing, if it's an NOS band it probably has asbestos in it too, a worse thing. Oh, and do it outside, on a really windy day, you don't want that dust in the shop, lol.

I don't think that would work. The inverter would be taking 6v positive ground and turning it into 12v negative ground. The GM module, or even the Mopar setup if you went with that, is going to want to see 12v negative ground. Since the ignition system will be using the same ground path as the 6v system I suspect that they will not play together well. Now if you had a 12v system isolated from the 6v system (such as a stand alone battery) then I think it would work. But I suspect that the inverter would not like you connecting it's 12v negative ground out put to it's 6v positive ground feed. Caveats here, I haven't tried it, not 100 sure it wouldn't work, but strongly suspect it won't. If you try it make sure you put a fuse on bot legs of the 12v circuit to prevent smoking your inverter.

Dwell measures the amount of time a coil is charging up, it is applicable to points or electronic ignition. Low dwell means that the spark will be weak. Petronix has what they call adaptive dwell control, they give no numbers though. https://pertronixbrands.com/blogs/product-higlights/understanding-ignition-dwell

We used to reline the brake shoes on the overhead crane used to dump material into the conveyors at the cement plant I worked at. So I was thinking DIY not sending it out to be done. Yes, I would expect a good brake reliner to know his job. But seems to me someone, some where, doesn't if that's what people are getting when they buy new ones.

Looking around, I see 1/8" (.125) and 3/16" (.1875) linings, so too small or too big is the option, unless you shim like Keith mentioned.

Other than the light bulb there is no electrical component to the temperature gauge.

Here's the thread

You can get that same kit at RockAuto for less. Scroll down to the last two entries https://www.rockauto.com/en/tools/brake+&+wheel+hub,brake+line,brake+line,1820

Interesting, I put an aluminum radiator in my 51, fit fine. No issues. I made that choice because I didn't want to spend the beaucoup dollars getting my original redone would have cost. Could you have used rubber to isolate the radiator?

Lol, reminds me of when I got married. I was in Millington, TN going to radar school when I met my wife. I had transferred off that destroyer in San Diego and was headed back to San Diego when school was done. So I only had my 64 300 with me. We met, ended up getting married and she ended up having her orders changed to go to San Diego once she finished her schools. Once she got to San Diego I was like "great, now we can go get my cars". She was like "Cars?". At the time I had, in addition to my 300, a 40 Chrysler, a 72 Dart, a 73 Challenger and an 86 Daytona all tucked away in various places. All running, all driveable, all licensed. She knew I was a gear head, but had no real idea what that meant.

One could argue the point that if it were strong enough the 8 3/4 would not have been developed to replace it. I would surmise that a twin turbo 360 would make 500+hp, well beyond anything Chrysler put in a 50's car. At that level the original axle is a bad choice, even without tapered axles as the OP is thinking about doing. Which is the point, within the original design parameters, or near to them, the 53 axle is a fine unit. When you exceed those parameters by multiples it is no longer a fine axle. It is a grenade without the safety pin in it.

The assembly AS USED IN THE OPS CAR is a light duty, low power axle. It shreds keys and key ways with any sort of added power and traction. The fix back in the day was to add a second keyway, that fix was abandoned as soon as newer, strong axle assemblies became available for a reason. I don't care what other axles or axle manufacturers might have done, we are not talking about them. The ADDED point was that even if he got a one piece axle made up to fix the key way issue all that would do is move the failure point to the next weakest link in the axle. In the OP's case, wanting to run a twin turbo 360, the stock 1953 axle assembly IS THE WRONG CHOICE, period. Unless the choice you are making is to spend money needlessly. In which case, have at it.

I read what you posted. I used to own a 64 300. It had an 8 3/4 with tapered axles. Chrysler DID NOT use the same axle as a 3 Plymouth behind a Max Wedge, they used an 8 3/4. The 8 3/4 came out in 57 for a reason. The fault in any design is exceeding that design. A twin turbo 360 will exceed that with the axle in a 53 Plymouth.

What other axles assemblies do is really irrelevant. The OP isn't talking about running an 8 3/4 or any other axle. So we need to stick with the issues relevant to the specific axle being contemplated.

I don't have a spec for that which is why it's not listed

I am sure any custom axle maker will make what you want, for a price. Back in the old days they used to cut another keyway and run two keys. All that said, it'd be cheaper to swap in a newer style axle. Cherokee and Explorer axles seems to be the favored ones and they can be had with discs as well. Not sure if they can handle a twin turbo 360 though. Might need to go 9" because even if you get a set of one piece axle shafts made up something else in the stock axle will fail, probably strip the teeth off the ring gear. Not to mention no limited slip options short of welding up the spiders as a sort of spool. But i don't know of anyone making one piece axles for our rides. I think the M37's have that aftermarket option, but I dunno how relevant it is to the pass car side.