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I'm having some trouble with my clutch linkage. I adjusted my overcenter spring using tool C705. And I adjusted the clutch fork to have one inch free play, but the clutch doesn't return after being applied. see video below

Many Thanks for the information

Yep, my go-to oil for the past couple of years. I have it dropped on my porch by Amazon. 🙂

The plastic rub blocks on modern points without proper grease .... or even with! .... As it wears away, it will close the gap on your points changing the dwell affecting the timing. When you adjust your points, you rotate the engine til the plastic rub block is on the peak of the distributor cam for the widest point gap. Then you set the points to whatever it is suggested for your car. If the plastic rub block wears away because it has no grease, the point gap will get smaller & smaller .... to the point they no longer open the points. Naturally you want to check the point surface to see they are wearing flat & smooth with no pits burned into them. Example would be, If you leave the key on & walk away, the points are closed ... there is electricity passing through them & possible to weld themselves closed. When you start the engine, the weld breaks away but leaves a pit on one side and the points wear uneven because of the metal on the other side. Of course could simply be a screw that holds the points in place worked loose. Just need to re-adjust the points and tighten it. Just a few reasons why points were replaced with electronic ignition .... They work great but they require maintenance. All above could explain your issue. Could be many other things like a coil failing .... points would be the first thing I looked at.

I don't know the length, but it normally sold in bulk lengths Local hardware store handles 6 and 12". I think they are 3/8sq, but just measure the width of the axle groove. And, they aren't Woodruff keys, just plain key stock. Woodruffs are arc shaped, and the shaft socket is cut with a circular cutter cutter.

I looked in my Federal Clutch release bearing catalog and according to them the correct clutch release hosuing number for Mopar number 671950 and 658998 is P-1054. The P-1050 is the housing and also has the throwout bearing attached to the housing and these were used for MoPar cars from 1937-41 the bearing number sold seperately is a 1054 bearing The housing that you have shown is the same housing that is used inmy 39 desoto without the bearing attached to the housing rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

ALSO could be a condensor going bad also check the points gap and also the condition of the contacts in the top of the dizzy cap to see if there is any pitting and also the rotor. When the car is just started is there any type of sputtering when cold or only the sputtering when the engine has gotten hot? do you still have the original coli in the car. This also might be starting to wear out. Also check the little wires in the dizzy to make sure they have not lost the clot covering. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

Didn't see that listing -- thanks. Mine doesn't have that bossing at the top of the casting -- it's straight-sided, like this photo (not mine, but also listed on ebay as a 671950. The dimensions look right, though. I'll take a chance and see how it goes. Many aspects of this car have turned out to be not quite what the parts manual say they should be, so it's been an interesting adventure.

Don't think spark plugs would start suddenly like that. More like Los said, check points. Maybe at night pop the hood and check if any sparking between the wires.

Check the gap on the points?

I had my car out for a spin today and on the way home it started running rough .At 50 MPH it started hesitating felt like it was going to backfire . IT idles just fine, it had the hesitation through a three gears .Any ideas would be helpful I thought of replacing the spark plugs they are three years old . the carburetor has been rebuilt . Thanks

This link has dimensions https://www.ebay.com/itm/312588392501?hash=item48c7b85835:g:6ggAAOSwfmZcxXvi

My first thought were to check that the horns actually work Next would be connections. Then I would go into the horn button.... remove the horn ring, unplug the horn at the exit point out of the steering column .... I would tie string onto the wire while pulling the horn ring & wire through the column so you can inspect it on the work bench. My truck does not have a horn ring .... just a horn button in the middle of the wheel. The wire where it exits the column .... mine was in pretty bad shape with the wires bare from rubbing the insulation off. The horn button the wire passes through a metal plate that is held in place with a snap ring. I do not know whats on the other side because it is all enclosed. I just know I will need to take it apart and replace the wire & clean all connections there before I put it back together. I saw in your photos what looks to me as if your car was rewired with modern cloth wiring .... did they also replace the wire from the horn button out the steering column?

No idea what you are working on

"... it looks like the 671950 I see on a couple of eBay listings, " Would it help if you could contact those ebay sellers and ask for dimensions ?

Can't help on Canadian differences, sorry

Thanks. I have whitewalls right now but they are starting to dry rot and replacement white walls are through the roof now in price. I am considering putting on some new tires and painting on white walls.

I know that trouble shooting the horns should be simple but I must be missing somthing. Does anyone have the scmatics of the horn circuts?

Today, after having already made my shelf, I had to make a thread with a male to place the gas pump heat shelf support screw.

The old rims are usually riveted, but as long as no corrosion inside they should hold air no problem without tubes.

problem fixed ,it was the rod into the master cylinder was too far in!

Nope, doesn't have that third projection aside from the two spring ears. Mine has just the two ears. I don't have a cellphone or a digital camera (last person alive who can say that) or I'd post a photo of mine -- it looks like the 671950 I see on a couple of eBay listings, but I'm wondering if there's some random weird Canadian size difference between that and the one I have. I've gotten caught out on things like that before.

Anyone know the length of the woodruff key for the 1947 Dodge axel ??

I contacted the Zerex Antifreeze technical service department regarding the proper Antifreeze that we should be using in our old cast iron engines. The rep informed me that we should be only using the Zerex Green Original Antifreeze for our cars that uses the IAT technology. We should not use the OAT type in our cars. Please read the attached information sheets to help you understand what product to use in your cars. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.comAntifreeze in classic cars.pdf Zerex Original Green Antifreeze .pdf Anti-Freeze and flushing cooling system.pdf

I was doing some searching on motor oil for our old flat head with tappets. Alot of discussion has been posted over the years about the lack of Phosphorus and ZDDP in the motor oil and alot of owners are worried about the camshft lobes and flat tappets get excessive wear. Castrol has recently started a new product for our classic cars call CASTROL GTX CLASSIC 20-50 weight. I wrote to the Castrol Company and was asking for the amount of ZDDP and Phosphorus that is in each quart. They did indicate the parts per million for each. So if you are worried about the lack of these two products then you can use this newer product. I have found out that some Walmart stores carry the Castrol GTX classic product. The average cost is around $23 for a 5 quart container. Suggest that you either singon to the web page for each store and search for the product or go to your closest store. I have attached a copy of the information that they sent me. Please note that this oil SHOULD NOT BEUSED IN ANY OF OUR MODERN CARS THAT HAVE A CATALYTIC CONVERTOR. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com Castrol GTX classic 20-50 oil zddp & Phosphorus.pdfCastrol GTX classic 20-50 oil zddp & Phosphorus.pdfCastrol GTX classic 20-50 oil zddp & Phosphorus.pdfCastrol GTX classic 20-50 oil zddp & Phosphorus.pdfCastrol GTX classic 20-50 oil zddp & Phosphorus.pdf