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To Turn Engine & Set Valve Clearance?
Dennis Detweiler replied to Dennis Detweiler's topic in P15-D24 Forum
I'm assuming .008 and .010 are set with the engine cold? Would the settings be narrower on a hot engine or while it's running? Currently I have the manifolds off. I had a dual exhaust manifold on it and couldn't get to the front valve cover because of the location that was used for the front exhaust outlet. I'm going back to single exhaust and found another exhaust manifold. I'd like to get the clearances set before I reassemble everything. Set cylinder #1 with #6 TDC combustion stroke, #2 TDC set #5, #4 TDC set #3, etc. I tried the fan to get the engine to rotate, but the belt must be too loose and it just slips. I'll tighten the belt and try it again. Manual transmission is in neutral position. Thanks for the help. -
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I asked this question in a previous posting but I think I might get better answers in a new topic. so, has someone ever found a solution to dampen the reading of the fuel gauge. The needle reacts "nervous" when driving trough a hole in the road or taking a turn. We have checked the grounding and added an extra wire. We have adjusted the float so it accurately reads full and empty. Is the float internally dampened or how does this work originally.., any ideas on this? would a new sender be the solution?
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If I remember correctly you can set all the clearances at.014. This will get the engine running. Then you can set the correct gaps with the engine running. That’s what I did years ago on the D24 I had.
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Great now I can do something else before I finish the other stuff I started.
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that doesn't sound right.....
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Hi Marc, I should be able to help you right out! I have a YnZ harness installed in my D-24 Business Coupe. So our harnesses are probably virtually identical. Walt
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1932 Ford Other Pickups On Ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/1932-Ford-Other-Pickups/224030948866?
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It's always very hard to do something for the first time with out any directions. That's why we have this forum! Here's a filmstrip from 1951 on a Mopar radio. It give some good advice, but doesn't go into the details of how to remove it from the dash. http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=375
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I have this coupe listed for sale on Facebook marketplace.
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that's a good idea. I will do that too with a test light.
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Grab the fan blade and spin the engine. Watch the skinny wood dowel placed in cylinder 6. When it is at tdc, so is number 1 cylinder. Check your distr cap rotor position to be sure its pointed to #1 position. If not turn engine until #6 is at tdc again. Then rotor will be at #1 this time. Every 120 degrees of crank movement the next cylinder is at TDC. 1,5,3,6,2,4 is the order. You’ll know when each cylinder is at tdc by looking at the valves. The tappets will (should) have clearance at this point. Both valves fully seated and closed. Tappets down. Clearance should be .008 at intake valve, .010 exhaust
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Those are rotting away? That’s so sad!
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The Phoenix is awakening / B3B Rises from the Ashes
pflaming replied to pflaming's topic in Mopar Flathead Truck Forum
Did, but rattle can paint. I since have learned how thin that pain can be, so resanded now I’ll go the route, primer, the rustoleum bright white,. Back to the thread. Tonight I bought this cab foe $100. I want the corner windows. Can I cut our the entire rear window panel and swap it into my tripuck? Or just do the corners separately? -
Can a 1940 dodge be converted everything to 12 v keeping the flathead 6
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I do have some useful advice, when I redid my wiring I verified each circuit as I wired it up. This way when I was done everything worked (almost) and if there was an issue I knew about it as it happened and didn't have to figure it out at the end where it might have been more difficult to sort out. the almost issue I mentioned was that when I was all done I found out that if I had my heater blower on high when I shut the engine off the starter would turn on. Still haven't sorted that out and it's not something that happened with the key on but the engine off so it didn't show up during testing. I could put a diode in to prevent feedback but I actually want to fix the problem and figure out why it's doing it.
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nope...holes too small..
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yes, the original bolts removed had multiple grooves all around the bolts...no shoulders...
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Ya I noticed that also. I am now looking for U joints. Also very fun. I bought a couple off ebay and they were wrong ones. Oh well
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What hole do the headlight wires come out of on the cowl? And thanks guys for this information! Or maybe they don't come out of the cowl??? I guess they could come out below the cowl somewhat and go to the junction box via the inner fender panels?
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2020 National DeSoto Club Convention is Cancelled
desoto1939 replied to desoto1939's topic in P15-D24 Forum
Merle: I did hear that if the 2020 convention was held someone was also trying to have the NDC 2021 convention in Canada so you might get two conventions in your area in the next two years. Rich Hartung -
I left the "S" off the actual NAGS is National Auto Glass Specifications....my error....apologize for that.....I was told by my retailer for the kit I placed in the 48 BZ CP that the glass would be machine cut per NAGS data and then fired/tempered for all the glass except the windshield which is still safety glass....
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Marc: On my 39 desoto there is the junction block at the left front fender yours might be on the brace near the radiator. There should be three bolts being separated. One bolt will be for the low beam then other bolt will be for high beam the other for the parking lights.. It does not matter which bolt you select to start the process all that matters is that you connect the proper sequence of wires together. My headlight looms ran in front of my radiator becsue I have the open space and a bar to attach the light wires. My three wires for each light is in a wire look so as to keep everything neat and clean. So basically route the wires so they look nice and clean to each headlight bucket. Before starting the wiring of the lights measure the two light wiring harnesses to see if long is longer than the other because the right headlight might be longer than the left wireing harness. There should be wires that come up from the dimmer switch that feed the high beam and low beam lights so you also need to know which wire feeds what bulb upper or low beam. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com
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Headlight wires (in the main wiring harness) terminate at the terminal block mounted on the front side of the left front radiator side panel. I don't know how they go on from there - my fenders were off already when I got the car.) Rear wiring - after they pass over the left side above the doors (as you said), they go down behind the left rear vent window and go through into the trunk area to the left (to the right as you are facing toward the back of the car) of the package shelf. (The courtesy light wire splits away about even with the top of the rear window, and crosses over to the light fixture.) The left side tail light wires continue along that side, just under the trunk opening lip. The other wires (to the brake light and the right tail light are attached with clips spot welded to the bottom side of the package shelf, crossing over to the right side. (There is a clip behind this row of clips where the brake light wire heads back toward the deck lid opening.) (I'll try to get photos sometime this week, if necessary.)
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I have noticed while searching for various things online, sometimes all you get is package dimensions. going directly to mfr website is always the best.
