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  2. Good old fashioned molasses mixed with water works very good too. Works on most rusted parts as well. Takes forever though, like two weeks if the parts are rusted really badly! But it does work really well.
  3. Today
  4. From the picture in #15 post, I would turn the puller over and put the center bolt in from the other side. Then you can use washers on the two bolts. I think the puller should be flat across that surface. Third times a charm, Thomba48. Use a drop or two of oil on the threads of the puller so you don't pull the threads on the casting, by using it dry.
  5. Difficult to make a silk purse out of a pigs ear, but maybe a duffle bag, no offense intended. I considered a number of colors then decided this color would be somewhat forgiving and a nice unpretentious result. Need to get this out of my shop.
  6. Thanks man. Just trying to have fun. I really enjoy driving my car and sharing the simple pleasures with the people here. Merry Christmas to you as well!
  7. Well it appears to be 2 to 1 in favor of glass first 🤣 I'll probably go the window first route. The cardboard panels that I got from Roberts probably won't take a lot of handling (or mishandling) if fighting the window becomes an issue. I will use 3M 08509 Auto Bedding and Glazing Compound to seal the windows once installed. I used this stuff on my motorhome windshield gasket and it hasn't leaked a drop since. It use to leak like a sieve! Brad
  8. the style/shape of the head bolts are specific and should not be replaced with straight shank bolts which is most likely what they have installed. While strength wise they are more than capable...the problem will be in the straight shank as they may well seize to the head and break on removal. The factory bolt will have a short boss below the head then undercut to the beginning of the threads. This is due to the bolts going into a water jacket and possible bypassing of water from the jacket to the area between the bot and the head. Personally I would source these new and swap them out one for one before starting the engine, that way when your engine is up to temp and retorque of the head being the next step, your final squish with the proper bolts and clearance for rust will be ensured.
  9. The air cleaners I ordered arrived today. First off I'll say right up front they are definitely cheaply made, especially at $64 each plus shipping. But they were the closest I could find to what I was looking for so I'll live with them. I will have to do some tweaking, mainly in the mounting at the carburetor adapter. The base opening is about 1/4" to large in diameter. I think I'll be able to come up with some sort of semi-soft rubber isolator to take care of that issue. I'm also going to have to figure out how to get the top cover to sit fully onto the top of the filter element. The element is about 1/8" larger in diameter than the recessed area in the cover. Oddly enough it's just the opposite problem on the bottom plate, the plate is about 5/16" or so to large in diameter. The overall diameter of the top is 6-11/16". The overall diameter of the bottom pocket where the filter sits is 6-1/2". The overall diameter of the filter measures 6-5/16". I've found a Spectre filter element that is supposedly 6-3/8" in diameter so I'll probably order that just to see if it is any larger. Anyway, at least the air filter problem is for the most part resolved. Brad
  10. So heres the story on the bolts. Initially the job quoted was for the engine internals, but Dad asked if he could clean, service and mount the head as well as clean and resurface the flywheel. Dad checked the invoice and the charge for the washers and head bolts was pretty small $38. Mr Adams gave dad the heads up that he just used grade 8. He said they were better then our old bolts, which he gave back to us, which were worn, stretched and some bent, and that if we wanted to source proper bolts for this we could find them as cheap as he could. He said my old bolt with the tapped heads (where the spring for the throttle attached) was in pretty good shape and I could probably reuse that and just look for proper head bolts for the rest.
  11. Here’s another one for you...
  12. Yesterday
  13. Good afternoon: The water pump shaft seals may not hold up if pressure cap is too high a value. It may be hard to research what water pump seals you have. Just sayin'.... In my opinion, the next weak spot would be the so-called freeze plugs.
  14. To accommodate the pointed end of the puller, select a bolt that has a diameter slightly smaller than the bore in the center of the steering column. Drill a "dimple" into the center of the head of the bolt and drop the bolt into the column. Now you have a stable base for the puller and you can really crank down on the puller without it trying to walk away from the center of the column. The key is to keep the puller straight so all the pressure generated by the puller can be applied to the steering wheel. If the puller begins to lean to one side you are losing the mechanical advantage of the puller.
  15. Someone gave one of those "Round Tuits" once, but unfortunately I lost it.....
  16. awesome, thanks for the info! That’s the only thing not currently working, the horn. With the state of those wires, it’s no wonder! The horns themselves work when run power to them.
  17. That would be your horn relay. One wire to the battery for power. One wire that goes down, and then up through the steering column to provide a ground when you press the horn ring. One wire to the ignition for power. (horn only works with ignition on) One wire out to the horn. The wire position markings IGN, GND, HN, BAT will be visible on the mounting tabs with a little wire brushing. A search "horn relay" here on the site should provide lots of great reading.
  18. Thanks. I did not get round to it tonight. Shall look at it over the weekend. But generally speaking my set does not look any different. The nut approach I have not tried out yet. But despite this set up I have failed 🤔 I am unfortunately a third try lucky man 😔😊
  19. Ya think? 🤣 At the time I put mine in Steele was suggesting this black stuff sort of like setting tape. That stuff went every where. Won't ever try that again. But then I probably won't ever have to either....... Jeff
  20. Position looks good to me. Bolt holes are very close to the nut. His camera angle make it look strange. As well as the coned end mine has a flat adapter that would push flat against a washer that can be placed atop the nut, and threaded shaft.
  21. Picked up the finished seats from the upholsterer today. Super pleased with them and I'm very picky on vinyl seats.
  22. Ok, now i really havent run any numbers to actually confirm the year. Previous owner advertised it as a 49. But the u-joints are held in with u-bolts as in the 1310 series. If that’s the case, Bonus! Easy to adapt and simplifies my diff change. thanks for the info! next is running my serial number to prove without a doubt what year it is.
  23. MaMopar liked to muck about and change small stuff to screw with us. The ears on the blocks are one of those items. Although they are not 100%, they are very similar and usually not difficult to make them work. Word of caution. MaMopar used three seperate bolts in the mounts, be sure you do also.
  24. As said, the Drag Link that connects the steering box pitman arm to the right side spindle has a bend it it. The Tie Rod that connects the right side spindle to the left side spindle should be straight.
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