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  2. I could be wrong .... just suggesting all cars were parked for a reason .... being a detective and finding out why the car was parked can be fun. Very possible the engine was good and ran fine but had other issues. ...... Almost probable you will run into stuck valves and zero compression in some or all cylinders. First thing you want to check is if the engine will turn over by hand, or is it locked up? If it turns over you want to start soaking the cylinders with oil ..... when you are ready to turn the engine over with a battery, probably best to disconnect all original wiring. Then run a compression check on it ...... The older engines have cast iron piston rings, very common for the iron rings to corrode to the aluminum pistons and not seal .... then the valves are known to be sticky .... Simply the oil gets gummed up in the valve guides and the valve springs are not strong enough to pull the valves back down through the gunky oil. ..... All common issues and usually easy to fix ..... just do not get discouraged if you have a engine with low or no compression. The manuals or diagrams are not going to tell you how to revive a engine that has been sitting for 20+ years in a field.
  3. Ok spelling police ..... Lets be fair, I think I assembled the brakes fine while managing the breaks
  4. Today
  5. I know I should not get hung up on paint .... Honestly I do no care what color the paint is. I was so mad at myself when I installed a new water pump on the 49 Dodge .... I thought to paint it and then though that was silly .... Now it looks like rusted up crap and only a few months old. My wife .... I thought you were going to paint them pink? Me ..... I thought about it ..... pink would make your brakes wiggly, Race car red will improve your braking performance 30%. I just used the paint I had on the shelf. Been thrashing a few days on getting all installed, my body needs a break .... assemble the breaks is all thats on the agenda today.
  6. Well Los control, thank you for that again.. I will make sure I get pictures in soon as possible. But I am a man who wants OE so no I don’t really plan on swapping anything I want stock from what it was when it was on the road long ago. I do have an engine it’s a pretty complete car got a good find the interior is immaculate honestly and only a little rust on the body like like whole panels rusting off. I want to get it safe to drive, I know this isn’t gonna be an overnight thing I accept that. I do not know how long it sat where it sat. But it wasn’t covered by a barn or nothing. So I will send pictures soon. But I wish to rotisserie it at some point but that would be after I get the motor and tranny, gearbox all that running then i wanna get to the shocks and tie rods, so bring it to running and operational..
  7. @BayArea48Deluxe very first thing is what I posted earlier ..... now tell us what condition your car is in. Does it even have a engine ..... how much rust are we looking at ..... What are your goals for it ..... What good does a manual or a wiring diagram do you if you plan to swap in a modern drive train ..... You are in the right place, I feel we have no idea how to really help you if you do not share photos and ideas of what your end goals are. Some say it came from a graveyard, what they really mean is it sat for 3 years in a barn and needs work ....... some actually get pulled out of a farmers field and need more work ..... What do you have and what are your goals?
  8. Ah, resurrecting an engine from a long slumber. I would pull the plugs, number your plug wires first, and inspect them. Plenty of spark plug reading charts out there to help you decipher what's going on. Depending on how long it has slept you may even see lead deposits on them, lol. Example Chart This will give you an idea what is going on. If it passes muster here put some oil down the cylinders and see if you can turn the engine over by hand, using the fan as your lever. This will tell you how tight it is and yes you should be able to do that if nothing serious is going on. You may have to tighten up the belt though. If that all passes muster, put the plugs and wires back in. Take the distributor cap off and inspect the inside of the distributor. Here's a decent thread talking about what it looks like in there, or should look like. Here's a link to an article on this from our download section If that passes muster then it's time to look at the fuel delivery system. If it has old gas in there, drain it out. There is a drain plug in the bottom of the tank. Take the sending unit out and inspect the tank for rust. New tanks can be had for most. Odds are the carb needs taken apart, cleaned and rebuilt not too tough a job. Here's a thread about that, In the downloads section here there is a Carter factory book, if you have a B&B carb as well as one for the Stromberg. Inspect the rubber fuel lines for failure. Give hte wiring a real good look, not uncommon for the insulation to be falling off, we fon;t want any electrical fires. Once you sort thru all this then, maybe, you will be ready to start it up
  9. Thank you for those links Sam. You the man Sam.. pleasure to meet you both
  10. Anytime I’ve experienced backfiring out of the carb after distributor work, I found that the distributor was installed 180 degrees off. Double check #1 TDC on the Compression stroke. Then recheck your plug wire placement. Also, extremely retarded timing could be firing the spark plugs on the intake stroke, causing backfire in the carb. Either way, double check the timing.
  11. So for Los control thank you sir for that perspective. Yes I am a young man I live working with mechanics and all that always have. So being willing to learn is something I do very well, I will take any and all advice and criticism that will make me a better man. ( YES , I concur sir, that life I always busy, but I know there is more time than life so patience I also have)Helps that I’m a elevator mechanic but I meant in terms of manuals, you know, drawings, when I pop that hood what should I be looking for in terms of broken things or clogged carbs, filters… stuck camshafts those kinds of things.. How do I know if my engine is even worthy of kicking over ? Again I am a novice at cars but not mechanics.. so thank you los control. For kick starting this convo
  12. To address your question...the first thing you need is a Service Manual, and a Parts Manual is also helpful. You can search for them on eBay or get them from Rock Auto in either CD or hard copy. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,1948,deluxe,3.8l+230cid+l6,1331873,literature,repair+manual,10335 https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,1948,deluxe,3.8l+230cid+l6,1331873,literature,part+guide,910 There are also tech articles in this forum, look at the header on the top of the main page for Tech, Downloads, and Resources. https://p15-d24.com/forum/4-p15-d24-forum/ You will also need to get familiar with often-used parts vendors, but determine what you need and then we can point you in a good direction. Enjoy your project!!
  13. Well, a friend and I tried to start my '47 DeSoto and all we got were smoky pops from the carb and even one flame. We reasoned it was the timing so we rechecked all of the plug wires and still loud bangs. The coil is new. Points and rotor new. Rebuilt starter works. I think I got it TDC. I'm sure you guys (and gal) will know instantly what could be the cause. I'll have to go over the posts last year about distributor plug wires and rotor direction. In all of the "will it run?" videos that I've seen I never saw a carb do that. What say you?
  14. Exactly what failed? If the rotor button is burned off and the spark has to jump too far ..... you got some kind of aftermarket coil pushing too much volts through a stock rotor. My last rotor failure was a cheap plastic body that wore out and allow too much slop in the timing ..... How do yours fail?
  15. A place to work and time to do it .... What you do not know now, you can learn if you have patience and time. .... For example I did not know how to weld .... so I bought a welder and taught myself to weld. You are in the right place to ask questions to get this done .... Just know it takes time for many of us ..... while others can do the same thing in 1 years time. I bought my project in 2018 ..... Keep in mind I'm physically disabled and been medically retired for almost 14 years .... I physically work for 25 minute then I sit down to rest my back and legs and drink a beer for 20 minute .... then get back up and work for 30 minute ..... I'm just saying even a disabled drunk can do this work. Main thing for me is knowing I have my workspace as long as it is needed, and willing to take the time to learn what I do not know. Another challenge is life gets in the way ..... This needs to be done as a project and actually enjoy what you are doing. An example is my project I tore it apart and painted it then am putting it back together, I can start it and move it around .... I need to do final body panel fitment and I have a new wiring harness to install ... I'm getting really close to driving it and want to finish it up. Oh shucks it is spring time .... I need to work on the garden and expand it as planned .... I spend several weeks working on that and garden is doing fine. Then my wife car needs a engine swap and I have put it off as long as I can .... So I have a used engine from a wrecking yard with a 90 day warranty on it and that expired 6 days ago. ...... I think I will fire it up in 1 or 2 more days, find out if it is a good one. Sometimes we just have to be adults and do adult things, then get back to our projects when we have time. In my experience a place to work and time to do it is most important. ..... Everything else you can overcome.
  16. Depends on what failed. Can you shoot a pic of that for us?
  17. Hey, if you know that guy, mention to him that both Autozone and RockAuto have incomplete listings for this part. I would hate to see it go out of production due to low demand caused by this.
  18. Last December I had an ignition issue that this forum helped me trace down to a rotor short. I replaced it with an old spare I had around, and haven't had an issue since. Well, I was out running some errands yesterday, and I lost all spark again. With some troubleshooting, I determined it was the rotor yet again. Luckily I had a new spare, so I was able to get back on the road, but I wouldn't think a rotor would fail that quickly. This was a rotor off a spare engine I picked, so I'm not sure when or where it was manufactured. I didn't see any carbon buildup on it, or cracks in the plastic. So, what would cause two rotors to fail in such a short amount of time?
  19. Hello to all, I am new here and I truly want to bring together my car. I would want some insight on what I will need, from documents , drawings , tips to get an old car from going to the graveyard. Any help is appreciated, as well as clarification questions I am new to bringing a car from the dead. Please ask any questions I am transparent because I am an amateur here. Thank you to all in advance. Fredo.
  20. I'm looking for a set of wheels for my 54, I'm curious about the specs on the wheels you went and how they look on the car? What is the width and backspacing on the wheels?
  21. Howdy for NE Kansas. Looks like you have a good one!
  22. Welcome! This forum has helped me tons.
  23. Made a decision yesterday. I bought the rebuild kit for the transmission. It came out of a 1980 Dodge truck, so it does have some miles on it. It looked pretty good inside, but that doesn't account for seals and such. The way a OD works the roller bearings are involved much more than the non-OD version. I want to just put it in once and never had to think about it again. I know... So I will go through it and then it will be the last transmission I ever put in the truck. Brewers RBK10 for those interested.
  24. I am so glad you gat an answer. I've owned my 48 since 68. A couple of years ago I was told be the tow truck driver I had a leak. My answer was always, "they're suppose to, how else could I make room for new oil"
  25. Dan..........interesting comment..........I understand that Zinc Chromate is the anti corrosion paint that was used mainly on aircraft areas that were directly exposed to the weather, ie, undercarriage bays, inside of wings , flaps, rudders & aillirons and that the interior of US aircraft were generally painted a dull mid green, although I understand that there were a couple of variations of this interior colour............I have been building plastic models for over 60 yrs and have seen references to this "interior green" many times and have seen at least 2 different FS or Federal Standard numbers for what was supposedly the same colour.........lol..........have not heard of the "sage green" term tho' I no doubt believe that the term may have been a term used by the Fulton Company as a marketing ploy rather than just go with the "zinc chromate" term...............the plot thickens.......lol..........andyd
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