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Those numbers are stamped on the brg and race. I have several 8 3/4’s apart at the farm and can look at Sunday. Could be out of truck, c,b,a body car. I thought the axle bearings are the same size, could be wrong though, never switched them in housings. If you have a few days, I’ll check a few 60-70’s rears. Have a little of everything still left from some years ago. What bolt pattern does the axles have?

Threw the belt on the 47 Saratoga. Nothing too high tech😀 Just wondering if there is a trick to getting it over the lower pulley short of pulling the shroud?

I was talking about the axle. Not rhe gears. I pulled thenumber from the ring and pinion gears. I know what size bearings I need. I am trying to determine what the axle came from. It is post 47 unless the rear gear is a later year that dropped into the 47 axle with no modifications

Look on the bottom along the side, that will tell you the bearing size. Gears are stamped on the OD of ring gear and may have been changed so I wouldn’t go by the tag if it still has one. I didn’t know they had those available in the 40’s but the yoke could have been changed.

Whether the original title used the engine number versus the car serial number depends entirely on which State it was titled in. That could still be the original engine, block cast in '46, but installed at the factory in a '47 car. If the block was older than the car, that would most likely be a replacement. The assembly line doesn't care which shelf the parts come off of, the engine number was added to the build sheet when the engine was installed. There's been some discussion herein about engine numbers vs. serial numbers on titles or registrations, and the issues some DMVs have with that, since 99.9% of their personnel have no idea that used to be the practice.

Whete are the numbers located?

Maybe the best rear you can have— looks like a mopar 8 3/4 with an old style yoke?. See what numbers are on the jackpot. Maybe 741,742 or 489 if I remember correctly? I haven’t worked on the 1/2” ton trucks, maybe they just have the look.

You know, I do have a sort of chop saw (converted miter saw) and a belt sander, 4 digital angle finders, hmmm bet I could do it.

Like I said, if you have the tools to make your own blocks, you have the tools to cut the angles. Buying the tools is always more than just buying the parts. A decent drill press with a mounted vice and some sort of saw would be the minimum for the project. A chop saw with the right blade would be exciting but effective. A hacksaw, a jig and some significant craftsmanship would suffice in a pinch. As far as figurin' the needed angle, most guys cut wood blocks for mock up. They also make magnetic angle finders that can help find and estimate the changes. I have always stuck to 2" or less, so angle changes have always been pretty minor, even with square blocks.

Dual heaters on my 47 DeSoto. The ends of the fan motors are visible. Grilles in the kick panels. Bypass n the right heater for the defroster grilles.

I started my truck collection with a 54 Chevrolet 3100 1/2 ton. I added a 47 Dodge WC 1/2 ton 1 1/2 years ago.

I have a 47 Dodge WC 1/2 ton. I pulled the rear axles and rear gear to have the bearings replaced. I took them to a local driveline shop. They have disassembled the rear gear and we have started sourcing replacement parts. The shop has the parts in their hands and there are numbers on them. The parts cross reference to a a later truck. A 48 or later B-1 or possibly some other vehicles. Every source I have checked states the part numbers I have are not compatible with a 47 WC. I don't dispute the possibility at some point the rear axle was changed. The engine is from a 53 Pontiac. My question is are there numbers stamped anywhere or someway for me to attempt to identify what rear axle I have or at least a group of vehicles it could have come from? I can tell you it is 8 3/4", it does have the expected 4.11 gear ratio and the correct Cleveland universal joints you would expect on a 47 WC.

I read it as dual headers and I was thinking why'd he put them int eh kick panels, lol.

The cyclebond are bonded linings. I have riveted lining on my 39 Desoto. Best suggestion is to check your service manual on your specific car and look under the section for brakes. They might have a picture of how each shoe long and short were installed on your car.

The casting marks under the distributor read A, and underneath the A there is 2*13*46. The car is a '47. Could this be the original engine? If so, how did they originally title it since I understand these were titled by the engine number, which this engine doesn't seem to have? Curious...... The casting on the head reads 4-29-53 and the head has that little bump-out at the front that my blue car doesn't have.

Not going to be easy yo find short and long lining shoes. Most all relined shoe linings are all long same length.

Biggest problem I had was finding Drums for front and back. Very Expensive and hard to find. Ending up changing the rear end so I could have disc brakes. S

There was a member, passed away, who's p15 had dual heaters. The outlets were contained in the foot well kick panels. You might still find some of his pictures posted to this site. Member name was Norm's Coupe.

oldcarbrochures.com is a big help.

Coming along nicely. I'm now working on finding some more parts to the rear window shades.

So I have updates of the 29s interior.

That's mine. I picked up the bezel, then got the bulb holders from a Dodge set-up and made the bracket to suit the Plymouth part. I also took the amber inserts from the Dodge bezel but they aren't fitted in this picture.

Hi all: anyone know what type of antenna connector hooks to the speaker box on my '41? This is the treaded connection at the speaker box. My antenna long ago broke off, and I'm trying to find out what electrical connection will make it work...