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With all that said, I'm still having a issue understanding the plug on the MC. Is it possible they put the plugs in place in case the MC got low on fluid? ... It would fill up with air and get vacuumed locked and unscrewing the plug would allow the air to escape and be replaced with fluid? If I left the MC in place, then loosened the plug to remove air, the piston would have freed up and the air would have been replaced with fluid. I'm trying to figure out why the plugs are there in the first place ... most MC do not have them .... they are there for a reason. So I dunno, just grasping at straws ... I plan to rebuild the new MC on the left with the better quality parts on the right .... Two weeks I may be sitting right here waiting for a 3rd MC to be delivered and hope it works.

I think in frustration, I just needed to walk away for a few days. The one on the right is a higher quality MC and it just is better in every way. ... It is a 1/2" longer then the one on the left. My current thoughts, I think I will give the one on the left a light hone. Then take the quality guts from the right and install to the left body. Even the better reservoir on the right will fit on the left. .... I have no idea how this will work out. I'm thinking when you purchase a rebuild kit ... the internals are the same. The one on the right, just the thickness of the mounting tabs are thicker, The physical body is thicker. I need to try and make the one on the left work, using the parts from the one on the right. I still may end up buying a 3rd master cylinder .... this is a tried and true swap. .... I'm just having bad luck.

Google lens, it's right there on Google. You can either upload a picture or take a photo. Works really good I use it all the time for when I'm cast iron hunting!

I imagine there is software for scanning and doing a internet search for any image ever posted.....I just do not have the time or inclination to search them out. People with that much time should be here at my house working....lol

https://sadtrombone.com/

INTERNET SLEUTHING: there are many ways to skin that cat.... if recognition memory of location doesn't click, at least....

Yes, well ventilated seats are a fancy thing, fancy not really being in the Neon's wheelhouse, lol. But yeah, they should have kept the Neon. My last new stick car was the 05 Neon I had. Burnt Orange, my son used to call it "The Orangey Car" Should have kept it and not traded it in.

Nice thing about old cars is that door ding in the parking lot are rare, lol. But I get what you are asking. One of the attractions of my 51 was that it was a drier. Not restored or "museum quality original" in any way. It is presentable and functional so I no problem taking it to the grocery store, or wherever, to do what I want to do.

right click, click inspect....read...

In my book, this is a perfect car for what you have in mind. These Dodge sedans will never be the cats' pajamas, except to their owners. It was "just a car" back in the day. Even though it has a manual transmission, it has fluid drive, which is great for putting around town. Lots of room in the car, plenty of windows for ventilation in that humid NJ climate. Mostly stock D24s are not $20K cars, regardless of what some owners may think. You won't necessarily have a coronary if you have to park it in a crowded lot, and you shouldn't be afraid to drive it out of fear of typical road issues that keep Packards and Lincolns in garages and trailers. But it is still a stylish and fun car. If you'll be using it around the shore, just be sure you wash it often, cars rust QUICK down there, especially older ones for some reason. Just because this one is a nice car, your friends will call you nuts for what you have planned. You'll have folks in NJ confused, many think a nice old car is always expensive or worth a lot of money, when they really aren't. My wife is from NJ, her family still lives there. We visit often. They think I'm nuts for using our old cars for regular stuff, they can't fathom us just going for a spin or to get ice cream in one of them. One of my BILs lives on the NJ shore and has a '57 Ford car that he and his friends think too much of to the point he doesn't use it - he's never driven it in the 12 years he's owned it. The antique and classic car scene in NJ is awesome, during the nice months, there is always something old car related going on, somewhere, from small ad-hoc shows, to full blown events. Don't overthink it, don't worry about what others think, get what you'll enjoy, then enjoy it!

The Old Cars Weekly Magazine issues a Price Guide which is a fairly accurate assessment of value- Their Guide is a compilation of national and regional data by the editors of their weekly magazine. These prices are from collector car, auctions, private sales and inputs from experts. They list six different categories from 1) being EXCELLENT to 6) being a PARTS CAR. Based on your description it could fall under 3) VERY GOOD or 4) GOOD 3) VERY GOOD: $6,890 Completely operable original or “older restoration“ showing wear. Also, a good amateur restoration, all presentable and serviceable inside and out. Plus, combinations of well done, restoration and good operable components; or a partially restored car with all parts necessary to complete it and/or valuable new old stock (NOS) parts. This is a "20 footer" - that is, from 20 feet away it may appear perfect, but as we approach it, we begin to notice that the paint may be getting thin in spots from frequent washing and polishing. Looking inside, we might detect wear on the drivers seat, foot pedals, and carpeting. The chrome, trim, while still quite presentable, may have lost its sharp mirror like reflective quality it had when new. All systems and equipment on the car are in good operating order. In general, most of the vehicle seen at car shows are in #3 condition. 4) GOOD: $3,060 A drivable vehicle needing no, or only minor work to be functional. Also a deteriorated restoration or poor amateur restoration. All components may need restoration to be “excellent“ but the vehicle is mostly usable “as is“. This is a driver. It may be in the process of restoration or its owner may have big plans, but even from 20 feet away there is no doubt that it needs a lot of help. Hope this helps

I've driven a few Neons on the Amarillo-Lubbock-Abilene-Weatherford summertime test route, and they were decent...kinda wished Dodge had improved upon that li'l buggy instead of pushing that Caliber abomination...but the Laramie and its vented seats will make areas north of the knees feel like yer perched on a comfortable block of ice while motoring for hours under that blazing sun ❄️

Ok, I want to know how you managed to figure out that location?!!

Chicago, IL.

I bought my first '48 3/4 ton dodge truck when I was 17 with my dad's help. He had lots of mopar experience. It sat in the street in front of my parents house. When it got sold I missed it so much I found my '36 1/2 ton dodge truck a couple years later. Then...it got to go into the garage against my mothers' will. My dad voted with me. We fixed it up. When I moved out and "grew up" I built a carport just for that truck at my own place. It lives in a secure garage now. I have owned it 51 years. I like that you have a garage for this potential car to come home to. Be prepared to arrange that garage for tools, extra parts, and just stuff that needs to support this new car. Will it fit ? Ha. Can you bring someone with you for support and will that person have mopar knowledge. I agree that that car would be a sweet ride anywhere. Cmon...you could drive a beater or an average kinda fixed up car or you could do it...once and for all and drive a beauty. Tough choice. But bring somebody with you so you can bounce thoughts off each other. Rodney

Well I was rather mistaken. This is the Fender Blues Deville “212”amplifier. You could also get these with four 10 inch speakers, but this one has two 12 inch speakers from the factory. These amps are selling for $900-$1200 in good condition used. Hundreds more for NOS as they quit making them a few years back. They are also popular to modify, or were back in the 90s, so an unmolested example in good condition is worth a bit more. This one had a problem with the overdrive & reverb, and I had to change one of the vacuum tubes. It was a piece of cake, and I got two used tubes for free from a local guitar shop. It’s 32 years old now but now it sounds perfect to me. I just need to get that coffee stain off of the upholstery.

I concur. Whenever people rate a car at a certain price, you need to ask yourself: are you really willing to pay that much? 😁 I am seeing plenty of good-looking classic cars on FB, right now, and some of them are hanging out there for month and even years... At, what appears to be, very reasonable prices 🤨 Shop around, do not jump at the very first opportunity, without even seeing it run, etc. And please do a full inspection, specifically underneath. The fact that someone worked on something means absolutely nothing. There could be all sorts bad things done to it. If the car was re-done, I would not worry about it because, guess what, you can always redo it again. Only the all-original museum-quality cars are somewhat more difficult to own because once someone scratches it at a parking lot, etc., and you fix it, it is no longer original 😄 For a $10k, you should be able to get a very well looking and working car (adjusted for the value of a particular make and model, of course).

for sure 100% hot wire so that there will be no supply of voltage to the in-progress wiring that may be at risk...be terrible to smoke a new harness

The opposite applies a little here too. If he shelled out the cash for a proper reproduction stock wiring harness that's about a 1K part. I think I would see if he is willing to let you try and hotwire it. Like someone else said it only takes a couple wires to make run. Sounds like he would love to hear it one more time too

I’d love to find one. I used to have an R7 in my 50 Meadowbrook I sold years back. Should have kept that one.

A big thank you for all of the great replies, information, and banter. I could not have learned this much anywhere else. I've decided I am going to go look at the car and I agree with Los_Control as well. In my emails with the owner, my impression is that he definitely loves the car and wants to pass it on to the next caretaker. I respect that completely and believe he's over the money aspect of it. He knows he's way underwater on it, considering the work that's been done and its condition. I'm not worried about the wiring harness and look at it as a great opportunity. He's selling it as-is but claims it runs like a top (I have no reason not to believe him), he just wanted to finish that wiring harness as the last act to make it a reliable driver. I can also tell he's very frustrated with his health and the downsizing issue forced upon him. Last thought (and I hope this doesn't sound stupid), I would be new to owning/driving an antique, so is it possible for this car to be too nice for me, even though it fits my budget? My intention was to find a late 40's Dodge to enjoy driving around the Jersey Shore (have a place in Long Branch) to restaurants, shopping, golf, afternoon cruises, a car show, maybe a parade, etc. and working on it in the garage. Just enjoy the car and the cruise. For example, I love taking a leisurely drive at 6a and find a diner for breakfast or getting out to the golf course at 7a. I didn't imagine I'd find a car this nice (at least in photos and description) and figured I'd only find something rough around the edges, allowing me not to worry too much about driving/parking it. But this one appears to be a beautiful car, one which may make me nervous to drive around and park, etc. Is this a ridiculous thought or is it being practical? Does it potentially mean I have no business owning it, because its for someone else to appreciate? Thanks again for the help. Have a good one.

Hmm, I live in Texas, I owned two Neon's, a 96 and an 05. Both worked well, in fact the AC was cold enough my knees would ache, favorite setting, lol. No eperience with any newer MoPar AC systems though. The 96 did shell a compressor clutch once, just went to the boneyard, got another one and swapped it myself. Only issue I ever had with the Neon's AC. Now, to the OP's questions. Just because you do not have a working AC does not mean it is low on Freon. In fact, arbitrarily adding Freon can cause more issues in more modern systems. Never do that unless you have proof it is needed. My ex's 15 GMC had no AC, gauges showed the pressures were pretty much the same on the high and low side in spite of the compressor turning. Bad compressor there. I farmed that job out. While I do have a mobile HVAC license, I do not have the equipment to service anything newer than an R12 system, which is why I got the license, to buy R12 for my Diplomat back in the 90's. Farm it out is what I would recommend. A good shop will tell you what's wrong and what it will take to fix it.

One big question is what is he replacing the original wiring with? If the car is still 6 volt, you need the a 6v harness with the proper wire gauge. If he's using an aftermarket universal 12 v kit, that's not going to cut it. The wires will be undersized for a 6v application. There's a bottom line here too. Doesn't matter what the car looks like, it's a non-runner and the price should be adjusted accordingly. To me $9500 is too high for that. Don't let the sellers sentimental attachment or your emotions lead to over paying for the car. I doubt people are beating a path to his door to buy it. If you want the car then what I would do is make him a lower standing offer for at least $1500 less than asking. Tell him the offer is good for anytime he might want to accept it.