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  1. Today
  2. Hello, here is an out of the box thought. Could you provide rough or at least scaled measurements to the tech department at your local high school or someone who is equiped with a 3D printer? They could make the base which you could then upholster? I hear they are making 3D models in carbon and other materials now not just plastic. The nice thing with this is you could scale it accordingly or try various sizes for very little investment or cost. Just an idea. Dave
  3. Almost certain that was a 218 car.. Once you "rod" it go all the way. But for sure get you a service manual for all necessary specs and diagrams
  4. Yesterday
  5. I just did a Rusty Hope disc brake conversion on my B2B. I decided it was a good time to do a dual reservoir swap also. Rusty Hope recommended the ‘86-‘88 Toyota Celica MC. It’s a three bolt pattern just like stock. The holes just needed to be hogged out a little. No need for an adapter plate, which can take up valuable space. My research told me there is no need for a proportioning valve with an all drum setup. The proportioning valve is for a disc-drum or disc-disc setup. I used a Wilwood adjustable valve. You also need a 2lb. residual pressure valve for the disc brakes and a 10lb. for the drums. I used Wilwood valves. They need to be installed as close to the MC as possible. I fabricated a bracket to mount the proportioning valve next to the MC. I also installed a metering valve for the disc brakes. Some refer to this as a “hold-off” valve. It prevents the disc brakes from being applied under light braking (low line pressure). My guide in all this was several hot rod books, but mainly “The Street Rodder’s Handbook” by HP Books. Hope this helps. BTW, my truck stops instantly. What a difference…
  6. This car was covered with the stuff under the hood when new. I mean on the firewall, inner fenders, all heater .... It was a dual heater car and of course underneath the car. I imagine it was done at the dealer when it was new ..... what a mess to try and go through and remove it all .... Under body is one thing, but inside engine compartment is another.
  7. Just do the best you can to embrace the suck. Mask and glasses and various tools to chisel away the junk ...... Not sure if common today, it was common back then to apply undercoating and charging extra for the process. Who knows what works best to remove it ....they used different products back then to try and be the best ..... Maybe warming it up with a heat gun will help remove it ..... chances are a chisel and hammer will get the job done. Just a terrible job to be lying underneath it and dropping the crap on you ..... Rough job but someone needs to do it!
  8. Hi Rich. My input says do whatever works for you. I think your car has fantastic style. I love the art deco look of these pre-war autos and how so much architecture of the period drew from these themes. Like you, I endeavor to keep my vehicle in period. I have the 6 volt system intact and equipped with the reflector/bulb technology. The lighting is pretty appalling by today's standards but so far that doesn't bother me. Have rarely driven at night and when I have it reminds me of what grandfather's world was like. Folks in our rural areas had only just got electricity so 32 candle power lights were cutting edge back then... Those Trippe lights are pretty special and meant to go on a car from that era and were an excellent acquisition. Maybe they would suit a big Duesenberg or Pierce-Arrow better...your call though. Whatever you do, fit them so you can still see that beautiful front clip. Best wishes from NZ
  9. Hopefully this post skirts the rules...i have been unsuccessful finding arm rests. My last hope is that someone can send me one for templating and I can ship it back. A friend suggested making them out of wood. But the shape is fairly complex and I'm not a good woodworker. If anyone has any other suggestions, my ears are open. Attached is a pic i found online. Thanks, Andrew
  10. IT ALL FALLS ON DEAF EARS proper red matching the red on the car, primary or secondary color is not much an issue....only when the wheels are so drastically different than the body color does it scream out 'look at me' ....'look at me' and the car is now totally secondary to the wheels.....NOW I WILL admit that some cars could use these red wheels so folks may not focus on the car body/paint or lack thereof, guess there are always exception to the rules....I have one car recently purchased with red wheels, they are awful looking on the car and the car has been hid in the barn like the proverbial ugly duckling until alternate wheels arrive...thankfully the wheels have been located and be delivered from way up snow country way in a month or so. The replacement wheels I picked out are factory steel wheels but low production numbers and not very common as the second series and restyled units that while nice, is not the look I want.....holding out for the first series wheels.
  11. OK PA, if you have a minute ..... tell us how you really feel about red wheels
  12. this is in line to big aux lights go better with big standard lamps.....you have the opportunity to make a fellow hobbyist happy, line your pockets and do your car justice at the same time...but again...just my opinion.....this guy needs to lose the whore red wheels and go with body color either primary or secondary color will look better than this stark red.....again my opinion.....nothing says you cannot paint a car ugly....lol
  13. LOTS of cars had dealer applied body undercoating to help prevent rust through of the fenders and rocker panels. BUT, they then found out that this was causing more issues and rust and holes. What was happening is then when a rock hit the metal in the fender well it then nicked the underside of the rust proofing material and then made a small hole. So if you lived in the Rust Belt area and they used salt to treat the roads the brine mixture would then be splashed up and then seep into the hole and then colect again st the metal body and then start the rusting process and the car owner never knew what was happening. When they came up with the galvanized fenders and body metal this prolonged the life of the body panels to prolong the issue of premature rust out. Chrysler was an real inventor to the galvanized panels on their Caravan's. Since we do not drive our cars in the winter with the salt issue I would scrap off al of the old under coating and then apply a good coat of PORS on the metal. We have also discovered that when people put bed liners in their pickup trucks the water and moisture would get under the liner and then when the owner took off the liner the entire bed area was rusting, same issue again with moisture. Just my input. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com
  14. Dan: Sealed beam headlights were first introduced in 1940 and mandated by the Govt. There were a few exception that still used bulbs. For MoPar from 1940-48 the cars and truck all used the 4030 Sealed beam bulb that did not have the aiming tips. From 1949-56 still 6 volt they used the Autolite Bullseye bulb and still no aiming tip. In 1956 the 6v 6006 sealed beam was first produced and these had the aiming tips so that the BEAR headlight machine could be used to adjust the light instead of aiming the lights against a wall and manually adjusting the light. More of a true system to get everyone's lights in sync. The 6006 6v bulb is now used as the primary headlight bulb for cars and truck from 1940 to around 1956 for cars that had 6volt system.s Rich Hartung
  15. I too favour the smaller driving lights. Your big boys compete for attention with the headlights and the overall effect suffers, IMO. If I owned that lovely DeSoto, I would install the smaller lamps, not far above the bumper and comfortably within the bumperettes as with my '47 D25 below. Too close together and the grille is crowded over. My two driving lamps don't add much to the night driving experience (and no problem, the headlights are H6006 halogen sealed beams), but they do contribute to the car's rugged road-warrior vibe, a look both pleasing and accurate.
  16. @keithb7 Sounds good. I'll get that micrometer and wait for a good day weather-wise to do it.
  17. At one time those tools were available at the local parts store. The 'head' was at a slight angle to match the oil hole angle and lay parallel to the crank surface. Back in the day, there were a lot of 'in car/truck' overhauls. Valve job, bearings and rings. Mains were really common on Ford Y-blocks. Most sixes didn't need mains the first time.
  18. On the same thinking as Todd, personally the Trippe lights in my opinion should be held in reserve for a car a bit larger....but again, just my opinion. They overshadow the regular lights....whereas the smaller units appear as a highlight and while attractive, do no command all the attention when viewed.
  19. It measures down to .0001, one 10,000th of an inch. Its accuracy is 2 10,000ths of an inch. It comes with a 2” calibration spacer. That one would be fine for me. If someone ground more than .0625 off, you’ll need a 1-2” mic. I doubt it is that even an option? Measure several times at the same spot. You’ll need to practice your technique. You’ll flub up. I know I sure did. Many times. Get the pen and paper out and a calculator. Scratch your head a few times. I did!
  20. Sniper

    Pets

    Oh sure, just as he finally got it properly broken in you went and got a new one. Gonna take lots of work to break in the new one, lol.
  21. Being a function over form kind of guy myself and based on what the OP wants them for I would temporarily rig one light of each up, with separate switches and see how they perform at night before I made any permanent decisions.
  22. @keithb7 Thanks Keith for the in depth response! I've been watching some of your videos. Very informative. Also what you just wrote really clears it up for me. I will definitely take my time and go slow throughout the whole process. When i have time (and the weather is good lol) I will go out and measure the bearing journal's and see what measurement I get. I'll paint mark the caps first. They have numbers stamped on them but I'll still paint mark them. For the micrometer, would something like this work? It's within the 2-3" range. It says it's accuracy is 0.001. Not sure if that's good enough? What do you think? https://www.amazon.com/Fowler-Micrometer-52-240-003-1-Measuring-Graduation/dp/B00B5HET36/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=1WSH043D7EHX9&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.uKgulDy-BlaOFuK4TdIfHJl6t4veDc6LtI9yM0EyghYXQFmi1zQ5g2PxWHm1hogDSeFHsBUxLlI_-E_ekLgQZTsxz58AkCmpEnc-LWm6oX2zD5SIMhEGMZorb3UEm_OnNqUMjLOKGaA7qpBExputn4ixX8s0OJCON7xeLXmN95rQcHegnvCoE3pcu54B1rCUONNHCfxcxAoI9BQnzpTjQg.VEJzohbgH-029rCeJ8QjS5O2t6dF5xuf44G7rIg9BUg&dib_tag=se&keywords=fowler+micrometer&qid=1712922190&sprefix=fowler+mic%2Caps%2C91&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfYXRm&psc=1 Thank you again for the informative response!
  23. Here in Maine, they call black bears "ghosts of the forest", because they are still very wary of human contact and people just don't see them in person (in bear?), even though there are lots of bears here.
  24. The factory front plate mount for our D24 is similar to what Eneto-55 shows. It clamps onto the front of the bumper via one of the bumper bolts. Which just happens to be in the center of the bumper. For consideration, Maine requires two license plates, too, but allows for the use year-of-manufacture plates for antique cars. Maine only issued one license plate in 1948, so it is legal for us to display only the rear 1948 plate. The car does have to be registered as an antique, though. Might that work in Idaho?
  25. I prefer the smaller lights. To me, the proportions of the bigger lights just do not look right, they block too much of the grill's aesthetics, and they make the car look like you're going for an MG outfitted for the rally circuit look. If you're wanting auxiliary driving lights (vs. fog lights, in my mind there is a difference), I wouldn't worry too much about being period correct when it comes to safety. Everything I find about driving lights circles back to headlights and specifies what you already know about sealed beam headlights being introduced in 1940. No mention that I can find yet regarding when sealed beam lamps may have been introduced for other applications. My thinking is that things like a sealed beam headlight may have been introduced as an accessory item such as aux. lights or fog lights for a few years first to make sure they work. That's just a "maybe", though. I would be itching to put those Trippe lights to good use, too.
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