All Activity

ya might be able to flatten that opening area with a bolt-flat washers-nut clamp: washers on both sides of opening, tighten nut down, smack it with a hammer and call it good.

The spring used on canister filter elements was to keep the canister from bouncing around in the housing. The perforated dome used on sock filter elements was used to hold the element in place as well as to keep the element from blowing apart.

Took ‘48 Dodge D25 Club Coupe to the car wash. A bit difficult getting in and out but car is clean!🤪

See a lot of good pokes in the dark here ..... First thing is I do not see the original problem you are trying to solve ... this thread is a continuation of a different thread that describes the problem there? Losing the cloth wire covering in the distributor was a real issue for many. It is a ground wire, since you have a positive ground electrical system, when the cloth covering falls off & the points plate moves from the vacuum advance the wire can spark, ground out against the distributor housing. The hot coil is a clue. If you are using a used coil for testing. It should not be hot. .... Just because we can swap 6volt or 12volt coils around & your engine will start & run .... does not mean it will run well. Some coils have a resistor built into them, some need a resistor added before the coil. If it is a used coil, possibly a 12v neg ground coil ... swapped into a 6v pos ground vehicle. It should work ... kinda. Because I am very stupid on electrical .... I want to call it a sine wave? ... A pos ground coil is use to running electricity in one direction, when you swap it with a neg ground coil it is now running in a different direction. ..... this can cause some really strange issues, probably more noticeable at higher rpm. Jus thinking that a good working used coil seems harmless, you need to know it's past polarity & also if you need a resistor or not with it. The 3 bad condensers .... absolutely. I honestly think it may have been my bad luck to buy the condensers from NAPA auto that week. Possibly if I went back 3 months later they would have had a better batch shipped in from over seas .... yes 3 bad in a row is documented in my diary and the 4th came from a junkyard & worked fine. Of course I have no reason to reply to this thread, I never saw what your original issue is. I just saw some of the past replies & toss a shot in the dark.

View Advert 1941 Dodge Luxury Liner D19 Business Coupe - Partially Restored Project Car This 1941 Dodge Luxury Liner D19 Business Coupe can be your next custom classic project car or turned into that dream rat rod! I have personally owned and stored this vehicle for 25 years in a California garage and much restoration and updating has gone on in that time. Regrettably I no longer have the time, space nor interest to continue this restoration due to other pressing projects. Please Check through the list of parts, processes and details listed below: 1941 Dodge D19 Luxury Liner Business Coupe - All Steel Body - Project Car Full Disc Brake conversion – All new brake lines New Fuel Lines - Clean Tank – New electric 12v Fuel Pump Mechanically restored with a fully rebuilt L6 218 flathead, runs great. Added Explorer Rear Differential 3.73 ratio 3 Speed with Fluid Drive All New Driveline All New Radiator Core New window glass except for rear window New Steele rubber for split windshield Grill & Headlight trim are OEM. 12 volt generator conversion & voltage regulator included. Most steel body trim molding is available but not all. All glass lenses, taillights, parking lights, and light for back plate are available. Complete Dashboard and Glovebox. Original front and rear bumpers included. All Running Boards are included. Original seat frame and seat springs do exist. Floor is in excellent condition; unfinished interior is coated in "Lizard Skin" Misc. small parts, odds and ends that were original to the car but were removed for restoration purposes. Take a look through all the posted photos, (additional photos available) and the full listing details, then be sure to ask questions if deemed necessary, don't hesitate to touch base, I am glad to answer all queries. Total selling price is not written in stone, so all "reasonable" offers will be considered. Buyer is fully responsible for any and all shipping, however I am glad to work with your shipper as needed. The vehicle does run well but is not in a fully licensed and drivable format (no seat, no plates, no battery) Bill of sale only, no pink slip available. Advertiser JD luxury liner Date 05/23/2022 Price $8,300 Category Individual Member Classified For Sale Ad  

The carb problem in October was resolved with a rebuild. I think lol, that was a while ago. I checked for vacuum leaks and there’s none. I’ve tried multiple condensers. I even swapped out the distributor with a spare. I’ll check the coil resistance although I’m not sure what would cause the coil to go bad. Whatever the root cause is eluding me.

They do look great! Get a bed on it and haul 3 tons...see how it does🙂

I did pistons, rings, rod bearings and deglazed the cylinders, all done in chassis. I figured if guys did that for years in service stations across America, it'd be worth doing to keep the car on the road until I can rebuild the original engine. All cylinders measured outside of spec for out of round and taper. I put about 300 miles on it last season until snow fell. I put about 500 miles on it this weekend. So far less oil consumption than before, no smoking, better power. Not an ideal repair, but worthwhile in my opinion. Especially if there are budget/time constraints.

I took my rad to the rad shop for a full rebuild. Re-core. Paint. Test etc. Pre-insanity. 3 years ago. The cost was about $250 USD. While rad is out, if you don’t know the history of the water pump and distribution tube I’d say go for it. New belt too. While the belt is off, how’s the generator performance been? No better time.

Carb base leaking doesn't usually happen suddenly. Neither do valves getting out of adjustment. Something breaking loose like a piece of trash on the float valve would happen suddenly, a spring breaking would be sudden, maybe condenser going bad (anybody?). I know my freaking muffler got suddenly loud over a few days and made me think the manifold Y pipe gasket blew (nope). Before anything else -> Humor me -> On that sisson choke.. warm the car up and wire the choke plate on the carb open so it can't possibly move.

Before in Oct 21 you had the same problem but said it was okay after you put the old carb back on. https://p15-d24.com/topic/56707-carb-issues/?do=findComment&comment=609787 I noticed on this post you said both carbs had been rebuilt. When you corrected the same problem previously by swapping carbs, did you later rebuild the old one that was working?

What would cause that? It ran fine until recently.

Hide the hammers. You haven't seen me with my old truck sometimes. It can be irritating. What about the wire in the distributor? Think others have had trouble with that, but don't know about the symptoms. These things don't slip timing chains, but wonder if something like the spring advance in the distributor broke? One person said to check the base where the carb fits (not the carb) for leaks. How was that? Did the problem start gradually over time or suddenly? Would think valve adjustment problems would be a gradual issue that would get progressively worse. If all else fails pull the muffler.

Yeah you said that already. These are the same diameter as the original 8.25x20s . That's what came on this truck. I looked at the specs for 8.25 x 20 vs 9r22.5s . Both say 38.3" on diameter. I measure a few of my old tires - they ranged about 37.5 to 38.25". I guess the differences are wear and I didn't check pressure in any of them, I assume some were under inflated. I finally got all 6 on . I am really pleased. I don't really notice any difference in turning force, ride does seem a bit better on my short jaunts - But with no bed on the back the suspension doesn't give at all. So it's tough to tell. Spacing is perfect, and I think the look is right. I was also able to find some decent traction tires.

What is the coil primary resistance on the coils you have used? They're are going bad for a reason. If you have too much current(amps) going through them they will get hot and eventually fail. For a 6volt system, you don't want more than 4 amps running through them.

Well, I broke down and took Buster with us on our Sunday cheeseburger run in the DeSoto. He was a perfect gentleman and was even a bit protective when we experienced some DDF(DeSoto Delay Factor) by an admirer of the car. My other half handed him his own burger and protecting us or the car was the farthest thing from his mind. 😀 I still haven't had any luck getting his butt into the sidecar.

The blue in the first photo is dust from sanding her down, I havent washed her as I need to redo the Drivers side. I had an airline pop on the literal last triger pull of the paint job spraying the entire side of the car with dirt.

Guess What I did Yesterday. Was the Trial run of the HVLP set up my son got me for Christmas. God I love my kid...

Okay here’s an update. Tried everything except valve adjustment. That’s next. I even ran new rubber line from tank to pump with nothing in between. No change. I’m lost here. I find it hard to believe that 4 coils 2 carbs and 3 condensers all went bad at the same time just to irritate me.

Are those available now for new cars and trucks, they are certainly needed badly. 🤑 Any engineers/machinists on the forum? Please help your forum members!!! WE NEED YOU_ NOW! 🙃😁 DJ

JB found them at LMC Trucks. The hole spacing is slightly further apart, 1-3/8" vs 1-3/16" but as mucked up as mine was that turned out to not be a problem.

where did you purchase your door catch or is it something you fabricated?

That's how I felt. When I broke my already cracked exhaust manifold, I replaced it with $300 something new dual headers, about the cheapest option. If I had to replace my radiator and originals were too expensive, I'd go for a modern one. Want to keep everything original but I'm not going for prizes at a show. Probably just driving around for fun.

During WWII with gasoline rationing in effect, a company in Calgary,Alberta was selling this device they claimed would increase gas mileage.The top info sheet supplied explains the theory of operation and the bottom sheet has testimonials. It wasn't cheap,$9.85, in 1942.....🙂