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  2. I'm in the middle of dismantling a 1950 engine/Bell Housing. Engine/Transmission removed. Clutch removed. Crank nut removed Bell Housing-to-engine bolts removed. How in the world do I remove the flywheel. 2" nut in the center of the flywheel. But a 2" socket with a 3/4" airwrench won't remove it. Yes, there are a series of bolts on the rear of hte flywheel facing the engine. Do I remove them to remove the flywheel? Additionally, how do I remove the crank pulley with a three-legged puller w/o damaging the belt groove. Tried to use the puller, but appeared to be warping the engine side of the pulley. Thanks
  3. I'll chime in with buy it...regardless of how rare some parts are, especially if the car is in the 90's percent complete. Yes, some parts may be a challenge, or impossible to find, but you'll have a relatively rare car, in what looks like really good original shape. I'm pretty sure you'll regret it later if you don't get it. You can always unload it later if it turns out not to be your cup of tea. I've got a '37 Terraplane, although not rare, per se, it is still a challenge to source Terraplane specific parts. But it's also a car I spent a good 10 years looking for, and knew the challenges going in. That Airflow is just about falling in your lap.
  4. Today
  5. You are so close! Finish line is approaching!
  6. Bill can you add these brochures to the "Dodge truck purist " club also?
  7. Per Marc DeSoto above - I'd do some research on this model and when you go to see it, check that it has all the right trim items. The mechanical stuff I would guess is available. Its the soft and hard trim parts - chrome and glass, door handles arm rests, lenses etc that are probably difficult to find. (I'd still buy it if you want one. I think they are cool and way advanced for their time.)
  8. Good luck with this. I am certain that several of us will chime in to help you with questions. A couple of comments I would like to add. If you are going to do this make sure you get the parking brake to work correctly. using a block of wood etc....is not a real world solution. It is true that having the FD does make for a nice driving experience. It will lug down to next to nothing in 3rd and accelerate without a shudder. Not quickly but it will do it. It is also nice when taking off from a stop on a hill. You will however need to keep track of all the component lengths when putting something like this together. And have a FD that has not been damaged by incorrect handling when it was taken off the donor vehicle. Hth, Jeff
  9. Restoration Spec. has now extended their down time for closure to the 16th of this month....no phone calls accepted at this time.
  10. The Gabriel application listing calls for the same front and rear, so that's what I am planning on using.
  11. I would have to say go for it and sort out the details later. A great car, very advanced for it's time and once in a lifetime opportunity for most people - I dream of finding an Airflow. Keep the 38 (yes I am biased) and sell the 53 which was out of date when it was first sold.
  12. This website has some very good photos of a 1935 DeSoto SG 4 Door SN 9603496 sold at rmsothebys October 2019... https://rmsothebys.com/en/auctions/hf19/hershey/lots/r0184-1935-desoto-airflow-sedan/805874 ( Incidentally, I looked up the SN info in one of my books - The SN indicates a 1935 DeSoto SG built in Canada...Serial numbers SN 9603436 - SN 9603544)
  13. I did not see any weld threads from the bottom. It’s smooth. Sounds like I should go with that port rather than modifying the pan. I will take a peek at the old engine to see which dipstick was in there that I will be reusing. Thank you for all the help. I will let you know how it turns out.
  14. Which of the two is for the front? Or does the same shock absorber fit either front or rear?
  15. When I did this same swap that it exactly what I found. I believe I also just pushed it out from the back side but it was a long time ago
  16. OK. I just looked at the cover, didn't compare details. Thanks.
  17. I looked at the truck yesterday, the rubber lip seems to be laying flatter than the day before. Im really happy with the windshield gasket, bought it from VIC’s.
  18. It's probably a cup plug pressed into the dipstick hole, if so then you ought to be able to push it out from the bottom.
  19. Julie could have run by at LEAST once! LOL
  20. JBNeal, It was a typo. I meant Monroe 66858. I'm glad you replied, as I trust your judgement with all the research you've done. Sounds like I've found the right shocks.
  21. One thing I should tell you to do is to find out what is not original on the car, and then determine if it would be possible to buy the correct parts. I can tell you right now that you don't have original bumpers on that 35 Airflow. The rear bumper is from a 49 Plymouth, and the front bumper is from a 34 Chrysler Airflow. Make sure the engine and trans are original. I just purchased a 1935 DeSoto color brochure and put some of its pages on the Nat. DeSoto Club's Facebook page. On the DeSoto, the overdrive transmission was optional, so it would be a plus if this car had it. The dash looks original which is a big plus. Beautiful dash and interiors in these cars. I think they are just beautiful cars period. Some might call them ugly, but when I compare an Airflow to a Packard or a Cord, my God, those are the ugly cars, not DeSoto Airflows. Put them side by side and you will see what I mean. First pic is a 34 Chrysler Airflow. Second pic is a 34 DeSoto Airflow. 3rd pic is a 35 DeSoto Airflow. Fourth pic is a 36 DeSoto Airflow.
  22. Jac...........if you are just removing them to replace the rubber seals, why not just clean the areas completely, squirt new grease in , reclean, then use short pieces of rubber hose or radiator hose, say about 1/2-5/8th diameter with a single cut then wrap around the seal area and use a couple of nylon wire ties to keep the new rubber attached.........if the bushings ARE buggered then replace the lot but if its just the rubber seals this may help......................and I'm on the Oz east coast, 8-9 hours ahead of you ............. andyd
  23. 1950 Studebaker Pickup Truck On Ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/1950-Studebaker/224108276290?
  24. Duskylady.......... going by the pic you posted I'm also not sure that the hole has been welded.......looks just like a "plug" of some sort has been installed...........can you see the area where the plug is from underneath?..............if when looking from the bottom there also does not appear to be any welds or threads then I'd be inclined to try a gentle tap from the bottom with a steel/brass rob or drift about 5/16th diameter.........I have seen 2 types of dipsticks used, a "short" one that fitted straight into that hole and another that had a dipstick tube that was a pressfit from the top into that hole, this tube was about 6-8inches long and the correct dipstick to use with this tube had this extra 6-8inch length .............the more I look at your pic showing this blocked off hole the more that plug looks like just that.......a plug............but I'm 10,000 miles away so the view could be a little blurred........another thought..........just drill a small hole in the plug and screw a self tapping screw into it or insert an easyout tool.........hopefully it will undo the plug...............regards from Oz................andyd
  25. That’s a great question. How to I know and how do I get it out? It’s not threaded. Apologies for being a newb.
  26. Are you sure that it has been welded ? Could it be a removable plug ?
  27. Oh yeah, what am I thinking, for some reason I had the breather dipstick combo used on some other makes in my head....guess it's late. Still s3ms like drilling would be easiest, even if I love an excuse to weld sheet metal.
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