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I would be willing to bet that at least 1 intake valve is stuck open. The previously mentioned compression test will identify which cylinder (s).

It is not uncommon for the engine to get harder to turn over as compression builds, however if the starter is struggling then something else is amiss. Pull all the plugs adn see if it turns over without binding, if it does then it's likely compression, if it doesn't then you have a mechanical issue. You can turn it over by hand for a better feel, pun intended. Good luck.

I'd be calling AB's and check with them re the part you received..........BTW, the drum looks very nice now...........I just checked the various shop manuals I have covering 1936 to 1958 OZ & USA Dodge, Plymouth DeSoto & Chrysler and all list the brand lining thickness as 5/32"..........maybe you got a truck lining?.............andyd

I'd be pulling the socket out and having a look at how it works.......in general terms the socket/light fitting has a wire with power going thru it up to the small contact that the globe presses against and earths out thru the body of the light..........a separate switch in the power circuit or earth circuit is just that, so I'm curious as to how this works.............andyd

Nice work and we've all learnt something..............thanks..........andyd

Can anyone tell me what year(s) and model(s) vehicle that this came from? Thanks!

start with a compression test and if this shows good, follow with proper static timing....

your personal choice based on availability of rebuild kit, cost of kit and most important in my book, the condition of the throttle shaft bushings. consider the air cleaner and if will mount to the non stock unit.

Hi, I am currently restoring a Dodge D14 1940. I ve done a lot to figure out the electrical and finally got spark at the plugs and and fuel pump working. The carburetor seems to be working, the fuel pump is working, I’ve got spark at every spark. The engine cranks but won’t fire over. the closest I’ve got, was a lawn mower type shrug from it, where it tried to kick over but didn’t start. One thing that I have noticed is that the starter seems to be struggling turning the engine. When I rotate the fan by hand it moves fine until a certain point in its r

1946 Ford f-100 truck On Ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/1946-Ford-F-100/274546914367?

If the brake material is loose & spinning its a good chance that its not reuseable so I'd be checking around for a brake shop who can reline the band, once thats done and everythings clean & you can see what if anything you are missing then it shouldn't be that difficult to get it working and they do work well once adjusted properly.............andyd

The quickest easiest way to tell from the outside if an engine has a gear drive cam or a chain drive cam is which direction the distributor turns. In fact all you need to do is find plug wire #1 and then the next cylinder in the firing order. Which side of #1 its on will tell you the direction the distributor turns without getting your hands dirty. I'd look it up right now but I'd might wake up the dog and that would not be good.

I used to center the clutch disc to the PP using both hands and fingers centering the disc to the outer edge of the clutch pressure plate. Tightening the PP just enough so I could still just move the disc to where it needed to be. Once centered I tighten up the PP. Worked everytime for me till I bought the pilot tools.

I’d like to help. I’ve worked on a few parking brakes. The ones mounted on the rear of the tranny. However I’m scratching my head trying to figure out what I’m looking at in that photo. Saying that, I’ve not worked on many Mopars, just mine. Perhaps a parts diagram would help?

You can't get much simpler to rebuild and maintain than a carter 1 bbl.

10-24: Tonite me and my oldest daughter went out for a 2 hour night cruise on some back roads. It was chilly and spooky. We had great warmth with the heater on low. It was a fantastic ride and gave us some good dad/daughter time. The Meadowbrook ran really nice and gave us that lulled feeling for the whole trip. We capped it off with a stop at DQ for sundaes. The employee at the drive thru asked about the car and really liked it. What a great evening. Sorry I didn't snap any pics this time.

Thanks everybody! Although diff fluid change is complete...I'm going to take a closer look..."just because" : ) Thanks ! John

Probably a separate temote mercury switch or Mercury light socket switch.

Got an update to my attempted repairs so far: a friend was able to machine the drum down (after me not being able to find any brake shops that would even want to touch the thing) and I was pleasantly surprised to see he got it completely smoothed out! Now my next problem is I can't get the new brake band I got from AB to tighten up enough to be able to bolt everything back up to it. I could tell the lining looked way way thicker than my old one, and I thought that was a good thing until now. My service manual states the lining should be 5/32" but from what I can tell this new one is at least 8

I've been working through similar struggles on my 49 Chrysler, mine was missing the adjuster bolt that goes on the passenger side of the transmission and that bolt was a 5/32 x 16. However if I'm right I think the adjusting screw you are referring to is the longer one that bolts up on the open side of the brake band? I don't have that measurements on that one but I bet someone in this forum will probably be able to chime in with that. I can't tell what that bracket goes to in your picture, but I can tell you that you can unbolt the whole assembly without worrying about losing gear oil as I jus

The 1920 would be my choice. Used on a lot of different cars, slant six to jeep.

I agree. lol I shot expert on every weapon I used for 23 years. Maxed it once.

I was right there with you. Pull ups and sit ups all day long, but fighting hard to make up those last few elusive seconds in the run. Shot 245 (dropped the five points at the 500 of all places) on the range thought so figured I could shoot first and run later.