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My nose came off easy but if I took the whole front end including fenders off, that would have been a nightmare exploration of the Titanic indeed, especially where the running boards bolt on

The yellow wires are going to be way to stiff to allow the vacuum and centrifugal advance systems to work. They need to be thin and flexible to allow the breaker plate to move smoothly and fully through it complete arc. Others have mentioned the leads are available at NAPA.

If I remember right these guys have a plethora of odd and unique parts that might work... https://www.restorationspecialties.com/

I agree with keithb here. You need to check to see that you have the "volts" where they need to be, and follow their progress through the system. Replacing parts may eventually lead to a fix, but good to just replace the ones that need replacing. Don't want to read all the way again. Did you replace the condenser? Often a common fail item. Once you find that spark the next thing may be getting it where it belongs at the right time 😊 I had that problem with my D24. Thought all was ready to go, but apparently when I slid the dizzy back into the engine the tang did not li

Don't know for sure on the '34 but on the '33 there are some braces under the fenders. The headlight stands actually bolt through the fender into these braces.

typo should have been cable.

The flared raised lip of the gasket faces up. It helps assure a tight seal against the cowl vent lid just inward of the rolled bead on said cowl vent lid.

Ok thank you I will go and look at it

No. Take the single bolt apart, and look at the flats. There will be flat splines on both, they interlock and the two bolts hold them together firmly.

I used a seal from Bernbaum. If I installed it with the flat side up the vent would not close completely and seal. I flipped it over with the doubled lipped side up and it works fine. I used weatherstrip adhesive to install it.

Do you think the arm that attaches to the lever is on the wrong side?

Does anyone know if the front fenders on a 34 Plymouth had fender mounting brackets? Thanks, Manuel

the portion you show where there is one bolt should have two to keep it from "scissoring" - those flat splines should mate up and overlap each other.

I saw that too, it's a good possibility.

Got my rear end from Texas and started soda blasting the frame clean to attach the 4 link suspension. I had an error with the ABS module in the donor car that would not let me read the PCM module. I disconnected the ABS was able to read the PCM using HP tuners ODB scan tool and sent the PCM to get unlocked this week. The car had a lot of surface rust on the frame that comes off pretty quickly with the soda blaster.

When I first got my truck going 7+ years ago I Plasti gauged all the crank bearings and they were in spec when I did new crank seals. I also tested compression and it was at least 130psi across all cylinders. I don't recall exactly but it was good. With 71k on the odometer, should I expect that my 230 has been rebuilt to some degree in its life? It does not use any oil or smoke. When I can find my compression tester I'll test I again.

Was that a typo or a really cleaver mix of cable and cobble? Either way is a really descriptive term for a cable that was 'fixed' not quite right!

Pick up a qt of Evap-o-rust. That should be enough to cover that piece in a small container. It'll probably take a 12 hour soak but all the rust will be gone. I'm currently giving all the bolts from the front clip of my 56 PU that treatment. A qt is 10 bucks at my local stores. If you contemplate more such adventures, a gallon is cheaper by the ounce, about 30 buck.

What allbizz49 said is the answer and throw in a bit of patience. Chris, I love the idea of you practising on this one to hone your skills. Excellent idea! Let's us know how it goes as you continue.

Yep !!!

So my front clip setup is set to arrive next week and I’ve been kind of stalled and unmotivated until then so now I’m getting excited. Quick question. I have the original front axle setup that a guy is interested in buying. What is a fair selling price for something like that. It has all new king pins, bushings, ball joints etc and has been blasted and primed.

I am putting my cowl vent back together and not sure if I am connecting the vent controls the right way, if I push the lever down to open the vent or try to close it the vent barely moves. The vent will not seal when closed I have attached a picture of how I thought it want together.

Sorry to hear that Paul, but glad you plan on taking care of yourself. If you want to sell your projects please post them in the Classifieds section or I will have to hide/delete your thread.

A properly operating R10(or R11) only freewheels when below the OD cut in speed. So, unless you are driving that slow you should have engine braking. The real advantage of the OD is the fact that it can be operated as a 2 speed automatic shift in traffic. Second gear in and out of OD covers a lot of speed range with no clutching. Especially nice when wired to shift with a manual switch.

I have two on my shelf. Didn’t realize they might be worth that much!