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Hello all ! I finally got the engine running, she runs great ,great oil pressure and cool temperature . I removed the transmission cover and found this open hole. Is this for the interrupter? also what fluid goes in the fluid drive? 10 weight like the transmission? I also put some oil where the interrupter goes and the transmission has been leaking it ever since!! I have the wiring harness now I just need the interrupter the car does drive and shift pretty well

I've thought about buying a brake flaring tool, but I have noticed that they warn that these tools are designed for aluminum, copper, and other soft steel tubing. Does that mean that you can't use these tools on old brake line from the 40s?

Ha- I did catch the reference. I'm sure my P15 went to the junkyard at 76k in part to the non detergent

Good afternoon, is there anyone that might be able to take a side by side picture of a 8 cylinder, And 25 inch and a 23 inch distributor. thank you Frank

From my 1940 Plymouth wagon

I agree 100% ... I'm really just trying to throw out a funny there Black lives matter ... Blue lives matter .... Non detergent oils matter ..... swing & a miss There is so many opinions on oil, mines not needed. There is a lot of truth to the sludge from non detergent oil though .... I already know my used engine will be pulled to replace seals after switching to detergent oil .... part of life.

Does anyone know what these bolt mounti g threats are for. Im about to replace my entire firewall and not sure what mounts here. They are symmetrical to the center so I'm assuming they might hold a part of the butterfly hood assembly? This is on a 1940 Desoto coupe

It’s only 7140 miles from my place to yours Tim… just a quick trip across the pond 😂 Very much looking forward to catching up with my forum brother’s. Dav and Roz in Oz.

Lots of choices, I usually use 1000 or 1500 grit wet or dry for such things, just because I always have some handy.

or all of the above. previous owners where a mixed lot. a long time ago, someone loved this car and spent a LOT of money on her. Then, what I presume where poor teenagers got a hold of her and tried to turn her into a Rat Rod. Intentionally causing rust and rewired the entire car with radioshack quality wire and poorly executed crimp connectors. also. EVERYTHING goes through the ignition switch. Headlights, Horn, Breaklights. everything. Tons of corroded connections caused by whatever they sprayed all over the car to make things rust. Here is an example of the quality of craftsmanship

Manual says to “Inspect the relief valve plunger and the spring” and if going to reuse to “polish” before reassembly. What would I use to polish up the plunger ? I can see where it has been moving back & forth but really no deep scratches can be detected when running your fingernail over them. Thank you in advance, 👍

My 1942 chassis and drive line with 1946 fire cab truck has this PTO tag. Can anyone tell me who made the PTO, or has a comparable tag? Would like to know some of o on it: specifically how much it’s capable of, what type of oil it needs, it’s hooked to a large winch on the back and is married to a 1940s 4 speed truck.

I don't think a few 100 miles on a brand new engine will create much sludge. You did remind me that my fresh rebuild for the p15 had an oil leak because the pan was rusted through but had been plugged up with sludge

Non detergent oils matter too Although they create sludge, the sludge helps to plug the oil leaks.

I might be able to tell you the size for the truck .... tomorrow. I would guess they are the same as the cars. While I have the nut in my hand, My tap & die set only goes to 3/8" and it is larger then that. So I do not know what it is. Tomorrow I'm going into town for shopping for the month, also stopping at tractor supply to buy bolts for the bed of my truck. If nobody comes up with a answer today, I will bring the nut to town with me tomorrow and see if I can match it up. Looks like a common thread though.

Technology has but the engine is still basically the same as when that recommendation was written. I broke in both of mine with 30non d and then switched to 10-40 after a couple 100 miles.

The tricky part I've run into isn't the thread it's the thickness. For my 47 truck I had to cut the nut in 1/2

A decent hardware store should be able to sell you a thread gauge. And, assuming they used something reasonably as far as diameter, a good scale or set of calipers should get you the diameter.

Tex you might have better luck on the car side of the forum.

Thanks I know it’s hard to tell but the kit does come with king pin sets. I will for sure give the other things a thorough check. Thanks for the help.

Yeah! And even with upgrades to brakes, gear ratios, and tires, which I've done, it's still a bit risky driving these old trucks at modern highway speeds. Like Young Ed indicated; how much nerve do you have? Lols! I suspect also that my truck might be easily rolled over in a high speed mishap? My 39 has the earlier design door latches which were noted for flinging open in accidents where the driver is thrown out, usually under the wreck. I try to stay off the major roads as much as possible. On the other hand, at my age, it might be a better way to go than ending up in some nursing home. Lols!

Some would take exception to using 10W non-D, despite a 74 yr old manual. Technology has come a long way. How long will it take to seat rings with this 74 yo approach....

Within one day of buying a car with blue dots, I got pulled over by the police for it. Since I never go to car shows, they sit in a box, in my cabinet, in the garage, since 1983.

No ZDDP additives in my engines. From what I can tell the same valve springs and valve-train design was used for well over 25 years in our flathead 6 engines. If you are building a flathead V8, squeezing as much HP and torque out of it as possible with multiple mods and high performance parts, I'd probably go for it. Add the zinc. For my 7:1 compression 110 psi flathead? I don't believe its needed. I guess I'm risking every dollar and hour I spent on my recent engine rebuilt. New cam, tappets, springs, valves, plus possibly and entire contamination of all pressure fed oil surfaces if cam lobes and tappets fail. I'm not feeling vulnerable here. Needing zinc in our old Mopar flatheads seems a little bit like some internet folklore to me. Maybe.

Here's something to consider https://www.clocksandgauges.com/quartz-conversion.html