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The firewall is mocked on the car. Next step there is put engine back on to see how much more clearance is needed.

There is a lot more work than i probably realized when i bought the car. It's a good thing im not trying to restore to original, gives me a little more flexibility. A related question to body bushing, is the floor originall basically flat across from the rocker panel to the transmission hump? I bought outside rockers, will use 2x3 or 3x3 tube as the inner rocket as others have done. I cutout the transmission tunnel from the Buick the engine and transmission cane from. I will update my main thread when I start to do actual work.

yes sir i did check that thanks

You probably already have this link ... Never seen a number starting with L https://www.t137.com/registry/help/otherengines/otherengines.php

ok thanks the 23436 number on the block is the same as blue remanufactured tag, probably punched in when rebuilt my guess. the original more bold numbers and letters on the block i was assuming would be the numbers to chase down

No idea on the number .... I do know back in the day the vehicles were titled by the engine number. Back then you could purchase a rebuilt engine with no engine number (machined off) then the mechanic that installs it would transfer the correct numbers to it. The engine number you have does not look like anything I have seen in the past ... makes me wonder if someone simply stamped it to something they wanted?

if it the coil the 6 volt replacements run around 25-30 and is any easy fix. You would not have the coil that mounts through the firewall but mounts on the bracket that holds the wires to each sparkplug. Rich Hartung

should have stated from the start, 49 plymouth 4 door sedan.

hey, i could use a little help in identifying this engine. i have searched engine #s and models and cant find any info. the history on this car as i was told is it was sitting in a barn , driveshed for 40 years out in Alberta and the gentleman passed away so i purchased the car from the estate and had it trucked to Ontario. told it is a 49 but has the 46-48 style. did research on this site and i guess there were earlier body styles built into the 49 year. this engine was rebuilt in its lifetime and it is amazingly clean inside and out. took the side covers off and it is spotless. had a couple of stuck exhaust valves but fixed that. i have seen different letters at the beginning of engine serial numbers but never an L.

What size batter cables did you install? Even the thickest 12v parts store ones are way too thin. It might not be the only thing going on, but it is a good place to start.

Yep, generator or regulator is out of spec here. New regulators are pretty affordable. Maybe time for a generator tune-up.

They are about that size. They were actually rectangular about 12x9. We tamped the ground and put leveling sand under them as needed to get them level to each other.

What size are these concrete bases, like 12" square, or larger? Is your soil firm enough to have them just sit on the surface? (Maybe like it was where I came from, in Oklahoma. My wife, who grew up here in Ohio, and whose family has been here for generations, sometimes says "Why do we live in this cold and dreary place!?" (At least I know enough not to answer.)

I had to look it up....

When a Fuel Pump is going it starts and when you goose the gas it Stalls out. When it drives and stalls out sometimes it is a dying Ignition Coil. The quickest cheapest fix is try Rich's Choke adjustment, if that doesn't work test the Coil and the Fuel Pump

Nice! 48D

You remembered right. The cam chain tensioner recall was for the 1978 and early 79 CX. The gasket thing sounds likely. Buddy Bob's also leaked at the top. I would do winter rides on the CX before I got the Ural but only if it was sunny and the roads were dry. The Ural don't care. We've been out at 10 below. I started riding on a mini bike about 1967. Moved up to Ducati Falcon 50 in 1970, then a Honda S90 in 72. That's the one I'd ride across the frozen lakes. Tried ice racing on that one, too. The 2 smokes killed me. Got a CB500 and my license in 79. Then kids arrived and motorized two wheelers got put on hold. The other half said no more motorcycles until the kids were out of school. That should have gone from 80 to 2001 but went until 2010. That's when my sister gave me her Chinese Dual Sport because she was scared of it. That turned out to be a legal nightmare and a POS but the spark reignited. Now I have 1979 CX 2007 Ural 1973 VeloSolex 1977 VeloSolex Plus two Frankenbike projects. A 1986 'Zuki GS550 that will be diesel powered just because I can. And a 1976 B&S powered CB750SS because someone else could and I kept it from the crusher.

I know in the east coast area and in the winter late fall months if the heat riser is not working correctly and when the temp is cold the base of the carb will ice up and the car will stall out. They quick fix is to pull out the manual choke a little when coming to a stop light or stop sign to keep the carb from icing up and thne when you get going again then push the choke button in but you will need to keep repeating the process at every stop or the car will stall out on you. The real fix if this is the issue then remove the intake and exhaust manifold slit is apart and then rebuild the heat riser assembly. This will correct the issue if this the pbm. Rich Hartung

I wish my memory was better. Now I'm wondering if he told me the gasket being folded was probably related to the recall repair for the cam chain tensioners. I do remember him telling me to look for the punch marks, and mine didn't have them. My tensioners were fine though. The "leak" was on the upper part of the case as I remember, more of a dirt collector type leak than a drip type leak. I did enjoy that bike. I tore it all down and rebuilt it, new paint and all. I rode my bikes to work and back a lot. It was 90 miles round trip for most of my working life. No rain at 5am when I had to leave home and temperatures had to be above 35 deg.f were my go - no go criteria on a typical day. I rode in some nasty and cold weather. But I loved it. 1980 Yamaha XS400 1977 Honda 1000 Goldwing w/ Windjammer and hard luggage 1982 Yamaha 550 Vision w/ factory fairing 1979 Suzuki GS750 1988 Harley Davidson 883 Sportster 1982 Suzuki GS1100GK 1982 Honda GL500 Silverwing 2005 Kawasaki 1500 Vulcan Classic 2013 Yamaha Royal Star Venture 1300 I started riding in 1981 and I quit in 2018. I averaged about 7500 miles/year. Not bad for living in Central Pennsylvania with our limited season. Maybe I needed a Ural w/sidecar. LOL I do miss riding, but I don't miss traffic, other drivers and wildlife. Our deer population is out of control.

Depends on what type of heater you have, who installed it, and if anyone messed with it over the years. Not to mention shortages coming out of WWII probably led to them building with what they had. My 48 has dual heaters and according to the parts book should have had the dual outlet valve however it had and has the one pictured above with a T in the lines.

Thanks for the suggestions. So whoever owned it before me installed a manual choke. I also need to mention this ran before I cleaned it with seafoam. It makes me wonder if it somehow worked something loose like some carbon or gunk that then clogged something up. I have not looked at the heat riser but I bet that's not operational either since as mentioned- manual choke.

do you have the sisson choke setup correctly on the top of the manifold. The 49 Plymouth willbe located in front of the carb on the intake manifold. If you have this setup check your service manual on how to set this up properly. Also note that the 1949 Plymouth uses the more expensive sisson choke not the regular sisson choke. I have setup procedures for this choke. Also there needs to be a heat gasket under the main body of the choke. Post pictures of the choke on the manifold. Laso could be a heat riser issue. Is this unit working and does the spring open and close the heat riser. I had a friend that was stationed at the Oakland Alameda naval station back in 1976. I rode a bicycle across the USA from Williamsburg,VA to Alameda and it tokk me 60 days to complete the trip. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

In your picture of the water pump you do not have the bypass connector outlet on the housing for the thermostat. you might have the internal bypass setup. look to see if there is a small bump on the head near where the main return hose is located. The use of the remote control wire pull shutoff valve is what you might need. do you also have the dual heater setup for your car? Rich Hartung

Hi all, Been awhile. Anyway I have a stalling problem. A few weeks ago I was doing some basic maintenance and sprayed a little seafoam into the carb. That was all I did. Anyway, next day I started it up and even after warming up it wouldn't stay running after I let my foot off the gas. I adjusted the idle slightly and it would stay running albeit a little "stumbly". A few days ago I went out and started it, it ran fine until it warmed up and as soon as I tapped the gas it would die. This has a plain-jane single BBL Rochester carb. I did a little searching including this site and there's some mention of accelerator pump problems. I also wanted to mention I have a 100% rebuilt carb sitting on a shelf. But if whats happening here is a matter of making some correct adjustments I'd rather get the one one it working right before sticking on the new one. Just seeing if this sounds familiar or if you folks might have some ideas. Thanks.