All Activity

A long heavy duty screw driver...pound it off as already mentioned or a good pair of vice grips on the lip...TIGHT...twist and work it off. That's how I remove them. NAPA has those clips in different sizes.

Does anybody know where I can find the specs on the rear shock measurements? (I have them for the fronts (if I can find a match up), but not the back.))

Thanks... I think. It was worth the wait. The guy is a real professional, and great to work with.

They need to be moving at a pretty good clip to have the coupling spin the motor. So really steep, long hill or another vehicle. A lot like early full automatics. Lots of joke back then having to do with 'you need to be going 35 to push start it'. AFTER you get both moving, not a head start from the pusher! That stopped when all the makers removed the rear pump. Driveshaft turning no longer ran a pump, and created oil pressure to apply servos.

Yes, they are the same. Of course, when we mount the 360 engine and 727 tranny, the mounts will will need to match up. That'll also require a custom drive shaft as well. It seems one thing leads to another. 🤨

One thing I've heard about stainless is that it reacts with steel, and can cause corrosion. I don't know if they still plate hardware with cadmium, but it used to used even on stainless, as a lubricant. (When I worked at a plating shop back in the late 70's & early 80's, we plated stainless roofing screws with cad, to make it easier to get them in, they said.) I replated a lot of my hardware back then, but wonder what sort of options there are now. I've wondered about hot tin. (As opposed to bright tin, which is done in a refrigerated solution, as opposed to a heated one.) Just wonder

Merle and Dave, thanks for the info. There's not much room at all. I don't think I can swing a hammer. I'll look at it again tonight and see what I can do 👍

If you can't get a good angle to tap against the lip, tap on a corner of it and turn the clip to an angle you can get at. There's a groove all the way around the hose so the clip will turn. There's some spring tension in the clip to hold the hose tight in the bracket so it needs to be forced off the hose as well as on when reinstalling. No tension means it needs to be replaced, common part at any parts store.

This cockomanic theory is akin to the theory of evolution.

I measured a 7.5 in a early Bronco II. Guessing the bronco and ranger share same platform. I do not remember the exact measurements .... seems like it was 2" narrower then my 1949 pilothouse. We talked about it here in the forums, consensus was to use some 1" spacers to get the track width back out to where it should be. I think it would be strong enough though for a flathead 6. To be fair my measuring was not ideal. The Bronco and my pilothouse had tires & wheels and sitting on the ground. I measured from center of tire to center of tire on both vehicles. We can

I got hoses at Roberts years ago.... still going strong.

Nice lookin' 8-3/4" rear you got there!

As long as you don't stand on the gas pedal, keep it under 35, and pull over every 20 minutes to let it cool down you should be fine...

Great job, like the pictures & cross reference. What are your plans for a wire harness, also what are you doing for the sheet metal apron by the front bumper?

SAVE THE DATES ANNOUNCMENT FOR 2022! Sept 15 through 18 P15 Picnic USA planning is under way. 2022 will headquarter in the MANCHESTER NEW HAMPSHIRE area. We will gather and explore the area. This year will be a Surf and Turf event. Arrive on Thursday for a bit of local poking around,, then there will be a Mountain tour on Friday and a shore loop on Saturday. With scenery and attractions to explore offered by the great features that make NH a beautiful place to visit. We will be doing a Diners, Drive In, and Drives format so pack you

Yes sir think I will take a look at them. With the intake manifold installed, it hangs over the right valve cover and top heavy & awkward on the engine stand. Going to have to pull the intake, to safely be able to turn the engine on the stand to pull the pan. I will take a look at the timing chain .... Obvious I will have a complete engine gasket set. So may as well change the valve cover gaskets while there .... Do I pull the heads & mic the cylinders? Heck if it looks good, may as well slap in some new ring & bearings just to freshen it up. .... It's a rabbi

Picture of the snap gap tool. There are sleeves that fit the appropriate dizzy cam. You slip the sleeve over the cam. Then use the appropriate setting tool with the adapter. This tool is great since you do not have to have the points being exactly on the point of the cam to se the points. You then adjust your points. then pull out the sleeve and you ar set to go. Makes it much easier if you have to make an emergency points adjustment. One of these units is currently on ebay. I have have one in the car since our dizzy is so low in the engine compartment, it makes it easier to make

How much room do you have to swing a hammer? Those clips can usually be removed by hooking a punch/chisel/screwdriver onto the turned up lip at the bottom of the "U" and give it a smack with a hammer.

Wally; I had no idea you could actually push start one of these. Did you use another vehicle to push it? My 3/4 ton is a heavy beast......about the only direction you could push it manually is downhill. 😃

Well, since you have to pull the pan a look at the bearings will tell you something.

Not real hard to set the gap in the car. Pull cap and rotor. Roll the engine over by pulling on the fan till the points are fully open. If need be you can pull the plugs to make it easier. Check gap with feeler gauge, adjust as necessary. Reassemble cap and rotor. Check with dwell meter. Done

Rich, 45 yrs. of turning wrenches for a living, never heard of Snapgap tool. Back in the day I was able to set the gap by eye, check with dwell meter, be spot on. Now I have to remove the dist. just so I can see what I'm doing!!! Will be ordering a Snapgap tool. Thanks for the tip.

Over the automotive period, the chemistry of gasoline has changed dramatically. In the 1920s a change in refinery techniques caused a rush to exhaust heated carburetors. Apparently gasoline got "oily" and hard to vaporize. Model T Fords came equipped with these crazy "Vaporizer Carburetors" that included the exhaust manifold (1926-27). Currently the Federal Government mandates 9 different custom blends of gasoline for local and seasonal use. The purpose of manifold heat is to counter "Icing". As gasoline vaporizes it cools and since air always includes water vapor, it can form i

I assume you had perches welded on to match original rear end? i changed my powertrain so had to set pinion to match the new driveline angle.

1939 Ford 1/2 Ton Pickup Green and black On Ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/324849278169?