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Thanks Rich, I had a bit of a look into regulator roy, looks as though he doesn't offer his services anymore.
- Today
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Congratulations on the truck purchase. If you haven't already checked under the seat, above the visor, in the glove box or the ashtray there may be more treasure to find in that truck. I have found keys and titles in all those places on past purchases. Looking forward to your progress updates on this truck.
- Yesterday
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I now pay the balance due thursday and should be getting it home friday after work. I guess moving that Rolls Royce with a frozen rear brake is harder than they thought. the guy said the entire undercarriage seemed to be covered and he couldn't find a jack point and didn't want to guess for obvious reasons. So I was searching the web for a 12 volt battery that would fit the existing tray (found one) and got into a rabbit hole on license plates. And wouldn't you know I found a few sets of 1954 Colorado truck plates on eBay...they really do have pretty much everything. These are the nicer ones, I might have to get them.
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Cool. Do have any pictures?
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That’s a very good idea.
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Borg & Beck pressure plate Number 1368 Type 10A7 what does it fit
desoto1939 replied to desoto1939's topic in P15-D24 Forum
I contacted Fort wayne Clutch and they told me it is for a 51-53 Mercury. Thanks for the update I will recheck my Borg Warner Clutch catalog. Rich -
soth122003 started following Instrument cluster trim
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Even though this has been fixed by the original poster, It might help some one else in the future. Instead of the cookie sheets, you might try 2 panes of glass in the oven. That way you can keep an eye on it as you go thru the process. As long as you keep the heat low, (150-200 degrees) the glass should be fine and you can also add weight to a specific area that might need it. Joe Lee
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'47 Plymouth axle seals replacement - correct seals
Merle Coggins replied to sjaakslinger's topic in P15-D24 Forum
Remove the brake backing plate. The outer seal in pressed into that anyway. Once you have that out of the way you'll need to pull the axle shaft. You may need to rig up a puller, or slide hammer to pull the axle. The inner seal is behind the wheel bearing. When you go back together you'll want to clean and repack the bearing with grease. -
What part of 'Sconsin are you in?
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I would have welcomed 28 degrees this morning. We had -8. I'm sure it was colder farther north, as I'm in the Milwaukee area this week.
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I thought you might choke on that!
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sjaakslinger started following '47 Plymouth axle seals replacement - correct seals
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I have diff oil leaking through the axle into the brake hubs.☹️ I measured the outer seals in the backing plate and could cross reference the part nr. 859164 from the parts book to SKF 13797. Inner seals 651678 lead to the same SKF nr 13797 though.🤔 Can anyone confirm the inner and outer seals are indeed identical for a '47 Plymouth? I saw an older thread about this, but didn't see a solution. The parts book shows a larger ID for the inner seal than what pops up on different car part sites. I can't pull the seal and measure (and then order the seals) cause I can't leave the car standing like that for a long time. And how do you replace the inner seal? I have the TSM, but find it really poor. It shows a puller to pull the shaft out. You remove the hub and then you can pull the shaft out??? Then how is it held in place? And what if you don't have a puller like this? Thanks. Dennis
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temecularevev started following Coolant leaking out of the clutch housing?
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Hi Again, While working under the 49' I noticed coolant dripping out of the clutch housing cover (there is a small drain hole). I know there are a few expansion (freeze) plugs on the drivers side of the engine that are leaking. So is there a plug behind the flywheel? is this where the coolant coming from? Any ideas? As always, thanks, Craig
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We made our first T5 adapter kits in 2006 and have sold hundreds of them to enthusiasts all over the world! We are car guys. We have experience in restoring, and making vintage cars our life's work and continue to do so today. Headquartered in Michigan, where cars are in our blood, we have the technology available to us to manufacture the best parts available. When you contact us, we have car guys who answer your questions and assist you with restoration advice for your car. All Bolt in and all you need to have made is a new driveshaft! In production right now is an emergency brake kit that attaches to you factory rear axle (you loose the factory e-brake when you change to the T5 transmission) - available in March! Contact us through the information on our website.
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Thanks for the tip @Merle Coggins .... I have a bad habit of, if I can not do it myself .... it probably does not need to be done anyways. ..... Seems like in the past I have seen the decals for sale on Ebay, need the ones for the gauges also and still need to find a donor to repair the temp gauge .... gauges will be a future project. Goal now is to get it to a driving project, and can work on things later in turn of importance. Was 28 degrees out there this morning, only getting colder from here. I did get the 2 tires mounted and swapped around so both on same side for a look see. Now I'm 100% certain I can live with the tires on all 4 corners. I want aggressive for the rear, not so much for the front ... I think these will fit in the middle good enough for a Hound Dog.
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MJ Keating joined the community
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I combined mine and it seemed to work fine but finicky to adjust it correctly. I worked out because I attached the 8" Ford e-brake cables to the lever on the trans brake.
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1950 Plymouth Business Coupe Electro-Mod Build
RNR1957NYer replied to jclars's topic in P15-D24 Forum
I know that's a positive phrase, but in my line of work using "frame" and "falling" in the same sentence gives one pause😆 -
personally I prefer the later model Dakota single pull on the drivers side of the chassis and the combo engagement lever that then splits to each wheel at the rear. Cleaner setup with less likelihood of exhaust interference when running cables especially if you wish to run dual exhaust.
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Richard, Not sure if you got the answer about the 1368 Pressure Plate yet but it only fits 1955 Desoto, 1955-56 Dodge, 1955-56 Plymouth Flathead 6 engines. It will probably work for earlier engines but the reason there are different pressure plates is the spring tensions are all different and the length of the fingers that the throw out bearing ride on are different. You know me as the President of the Plymouth Owners Club (Russ Nardi) but I also own www.5speedadapter.com that sells kits to install the T5 5-speed overdrive in flathead Plymouths. I have all the reference books for flathead transmission parts.
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It's been done before. But I promised myself I would not change the body to fit the donor car. Only trim inside where it can't be seen. Major item will be the firewall. Unless it's customization like flared fenders? Na. How about some big honkin" "Keep on Truckin'" mudflaps? Hoist frame falling together nicely, and I think it meats the intent of my stamped drawing. John
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Russells Adapters changed their profile photo
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Bob Riding started following Double E Brakes?
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I've been working on my '52 Plymouth Suburban for 6 years now 🤪 and in that time my plans for it have changed-I was going to use a rebuilt Chrysler 360 motor and 200R GM OD automatic transmission, which meant I'd lose the lovely stock Plymouth tail-shaft E brake. I ended up sourcing a ’93 Ford Ranger rear end with 3:73 gears, so that I got to keep the wheel-bolt pattern and E brakes too. Fast forward a few years- Not being a fabricator and tired of all the mods required to get the motor and trans to work, I decided to go back to what I know - a tried and true rebuilt '56 Plymouth 230, with the 2bbl WW Stromberg "Power Pack" and stock '56 3 speed tranny, which included an E brake in great shape. yesterday, I installed the pull-handle mechanism under the dash, and it got me to thinking that the Ranger wheel E-brakes are superior to our driveshaft brake, but is there any way (or benefit) to try to combine them?
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Things are moving slowly. The 2 new exhaust valves are arriving today, and it is going back together 😏
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Tucker on display for the buying public... neckties not required