Ivan_B

That's great news! No need to PM, you can just post them here, I am sure everyone would appreciate these, for reference 😀

I usually fix these with sealant-dressed gasket If the fuel is actually going "upstream" I am thinking that there might be heat and/or pressure (the line between pump and carb) involved 🤔 In any event, more information from the TS will probably be useful, at this point.

I do not believe that Meniscus would be high-enough to overflow over the edge like this, with the proper float level 🤔

I think the debate about cost, etc, goes on because many people are not DIY-inclined. They are interested in a "kit", that can be just installed without further consideration, and are willing to pay for it. Similar to taxes: for most, it's just standard deduction and you can do it yourself, with minimal research, for free. Yet, it is "easier" for many people to pay someone else to do it for them.

I suspect that engine noises are best troubleshot from under the hood/underneath the car. Have someone step on the gas and listen 😉

Is it doing this when the engine is cold, as well?

Well, could be. If I got the pump a tooth off, I'll be ~36 degrees out of timing. Once I am done with the seal, etc. tomorrow, I'll just verify timing at TDC before running the engine

I saw that, but figured that it was for when you take everything apart, etc. I just carefully took it out (with the engine at whatever position) and marked the shaft, so that I inserted it back exactly the same way it was. Should be good to go, right? 🤨

He sand blasted it, so it's clean as new, at this point. The panel adhesive is interesting. I looked-up the 3M stuff, never heard of it before. On one hand, the bond is not as strong as mechanical but, on the other hand, you have a larger contact area, so it sounds promising. I wonder how well it keeps its properties after several years of vibration, weather, and freezing cycles 🤔 Weren't the German engineers experimenting with gluing planes in the early last century? It did not go well at that time, but maybe the technology has finally caught-up?

I don't think that pushing on the rivets would brake the welds on the drum like this. Was your wheel actually too small for this drum? Was it pushing onto the outer edge of the drum when you tightened the bolts? This is the only way I can see the wheel braking the drum off the hub like this.

Took the pump cap off, today. Thought it over and decided to go with a new o-ring. According to the size I measured, this should be the standard #143 o-ring. Napa is the only local store which could order something like this. We'll see how that goes on Tuesday. 🙄 BTW, on the 1940 frame with 201 engine, the pump slides right out without doing any adjustments to the engine.

Just look at all those bent lines down at the local store. No one bent those on purpose, that's how easy it is 🤣

What's the reason you are fixing this in the first place? If you are interested in stopping future rust, just coat this with liquid undercoating (on both sides) and carry on If you are actually having structural damage (metal is too weak to serve its purpose) you can cut a new piece of metal and rivet it in. It will not look pretty, but it will work. If you use liquid undercoating, you can probably even leave the old metal underneath, so that someone else (or a wiser version of you 😉) can do a proper repair in the future. I would definitely not use fiberglass, etc.

I have two explanations: 1) there is a tiny crack somewhere (very unlikely) or 2) the gasket is letting the gas through. To deal with the second scenario, use some sealant dressing on the gasket (I prefer permatex #2) and do not over-tighten it. Also, make sure that your level is correct. To do so, verify that the float is not leaking (dip in boiling water, watch for bubbles) and that the needle is actually shutting off the fuel flow (crank the engine with the carb top off, blow into it, etc.). Also, do you still have original vacuum advance line on your carb? Would you mind posting a few pictures of how that's rounder to the distributor? 😃

Is the old drum still repairable? It could be cheaper to redo the rivets 🙄 Do you have a picture of your spare tire? I am very curious about how it managed to break the rivets... 🤨

Better than standard copper-nickel? 🤔 The only reason I see to use it instead of copper is if you are after the silver look.

That's a good point, did not think about the pressure. I cannot find the data sheet for the fel-pro rubber-cork material... Other manufacturers rate theirs at around 100-150psi 🤔

Are your rims actually rusty on the inside? Mine were pretty clean (original paint, too), so I just washed them and that's it. The tubeless tires use soapy water for mounting. Since we have tubes, I just used the good old tire talc powder. Both on the tube and inside the tire (spread it around with a piece of cloth, etc). Do not use organic baby powder for automotive tires 🤣 You don't have to worry about setting the bead, etc. Your biggest concern should be how to not pinch the tube in between the tire and the rim. Also, make sure that you have the correct-size tubes. One of my old tubes had a fold in it. When I put the tires on, I inflated them to around 10 psi, just to hold shape, and then pushed around the sidewall, on both sides, to make sure that the tube was nicely seated in the middle of the rim.

These o-rings are still available on e-bay... The size is listed at 2-17/32 or 64.3mm (not sure ID or OD though 🤣). The original ring is square cross-section, correct. However, I suspect that either type (or even a properly-sized cork) will work. I will dress it with sealant, anyway. I'll take my cap off, today, to see what's in there. Technically, you can even bead-seal it without the ring, like it is done on some modern vehicles. I do not like the sealant-only solution, though. This is likely done for cost saving.

Autozone sells the same lines cheaper (at least around here). That is, if you need them now; otherwise - Amazon coil.

Okay, that makes sense. I was just making sure that the o-ring is not included in the gap calculation... The ring needs to be slightly thicker than the groove, in order to make sealing contact. I'll try to find a matching ring or attempt to fabricate one from a soft cork gasket material. I need to check how thick my cork sheets are. I might even be able to re-seal the original ring, but I suspect that it will fall apart as soon as I take it out. 🤣

Thank you, I already studied this material in the forum tech. section, here. So, if I understand correctly, the end-play (gap between the rotors and the back plate) is adjusted with either machining the housing or the rotors. Since my current pump is working alright and I just need to replace the plate o-ring, It seems that I can just remove the plate, replace the o-ring, and then put the plate back on. The plate is mounted metal-to-metal, with the o-ring squeezed in between. So I do not believe that re-installing the same plate will affect the gap, right? 🙄

Resurrecting this old topic. Did anyone managed to fix the leaking oil pump cover? I am replacing some gaskets around the engine, to reduce oil loss, and have noticed that my pump is also leaking. Am I correct in assuming that I can just remove the pump cover, put a new o-ring underneath and tighten it back-up the way it used to be? People mention something about the cover/rotor clearance. How is that adjusted? 🤔

Why in the world would you use stainless? 🤣 I bought a set of new lines for a modern car, at a local store, once. Had to "adapt" all of them because they did not fit right.

Did you lubricate the rubber with soapy water, as they show in the video? 😏