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JBNeal last won the day on November 12

JBNeal had the most liked content!

About JBNeal

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  1. Smooth vinyl on a bench seat works if the seat is pleated or quilted...otherwise, the textured vinyl helps to keep ya from sliding around too much when cornering or braking... I had a local guy cover the '49 bench seat with a dark chocolate textured vinyl he had in his leftover pile...it looked black in the dim light of his warehouse, but in the sun, it has a dark brown tint...not original but I like it...if he had a dark tan vinyl, I would have gone that route... You have my permission to use whatever color you want 👌
  2. A potential relief to your maintenance budget could be this little trick that I've used: in recent years, Monroe has advertised rebates in the spring as well as Shock-tober...couple this with online discounts from Advance Auto or O'Reilly Auto, and the net result has been buy 2 shocks, get 2 free... I have delayed shock and strut purchases to reap this significant savings on several vehicles in the last 10+ years, and parlayed my savings with a similar approach to tire replacement at Firestone in the spring and fall...ironically, I was told about both discounts by salesmen at local stores as I have been a good customer with my many project vehicles... So if you have to deal with these maintenance issues and can delay these purchases for a few weeks, take the time and do some research, ask a few strategic questions with the local sales staff, and at the end of the day, your wallet might still be heavy enough to afford putting cheese on your hamburger
  3. additional information - Updated Part Number Interchange List
  4. I've had my ear to the ground on the rubber seal issue for awhile, and y'all are all saying things that others have said, which almost seems like it boils down to a bit of luck at getting a decent seal from Roberts, Andy B or Steele...occasionally I hear a recommendation for Clester's, and I remember them advertising in the Hemmings for years, but considering the volume of these parts they move annually, I kinda wonder if these vendors are sourcing their rubber parts from the same building...
  5. I have used an oily shop rag soaked in diesel to get diesel to burn on whatever, the rag gets hot enough to ignite the other diesel without flaming out...
  6. Not without a blowtorch and a BFH Rather than go into the geometry, as an exercise simply trace and cut out the flywheel holes on paper...then align the paper holes to the crankshaft, then flip the paper over to see the difference...
  7. one hole is offset probably so the flywheel isn't put on backwards
  8. B-4s had a new hubcap, chromed or painted, that was used for several model years...
  9. I've had good results with chemical paint strippers on metal that I don't want to damage or warp with media blasting or abrasion...on thicker coatings, it can take several applications to get down to the base metal...
  10. I forgot to mention the trick to filing contact points is to clamp both contacts onto the the filing tool at the same time so that the edges are worked parallel...then clean the contacts with rubbing alcolhol on a cotton swab or the like...
  11. Black shocks blend in with the undercarriage and hide dirt, and the old shocks I pulled off of the 1-ton still had some black paint on them so maybe that's the way they came from the factory...lighter colored shocks never look as good as when they come out of the box if ya drive in all road conditions, but if they start leaking, the dirt staining can be noticed at a glance which helps with maintenance...I put new Monroes on the Quad Cab this spring, and the rear ones were silver, just as advertised, but the fronts were black...dealing with OEMs, I know it's common practice to have a preferred finish specified for parts, but they will ship product out the door with whatever finish they have on the shelf so they can invoice customers and meet their quotas
  12. I heard that at one time there was a small flat file that could be used to clean the contacts and that should be done periodically...also heard that an emory board could be used as a substitute...
  13. I dug up the shock absorbers that I pulled off of the '49 1-ton to study them a little more, as they appeared original with the DPCD logo stamped into the dirt shield. I was able to get the p#s off of them and critical dimensions: F -- 1261982 -- 12.38 -- 20.25 R -- 1196294 -- 11.75 -- 18.75 I could not find neither of these p#s in the parts book nor could I find any reference to them online, so I'm not sure if these were original to the truck or if the p# I'm looking at on the dirt shield is referencing something else...these dims compare very close to the dims of the 31000 & 32207 shocks that I've been using for years from Monroe, which were listed as replacements in their interchange book back in the 90s. So I did some studying of the parts manual and Monroe's Instruction Guide, as well as Gabriel's Online Catalog (which took some digging to find), and found some more part replacement numbers that could be used. Some shocks are more available than others, and some shocks are cheaper than others, but after putting a few more hours into researching this topic, I think we have more options available for builds and restorations. One thing I noticed in the parts manual is the specification of 1" domestic and 1-3/8" heavy duty export. Looking at the shocks available, the common spec for passenger cars is 1-3/16" bore, with light truck shocks having a 1-3/8" bore. I switched to a large bore shock on The Blue Bomber years ago, and it produced a slightly bouncy ride unladen but under a heavy load or pulling a trailer, the truck rode nice and smooth, and braking was much more controlled, with noticeably less nose dive. So if you are just going to use your old buggy for commuting, then the 1-3/16" shocks should work fine, as they are a stronger design than the originals...if you plan on carrying a load on a regular basis, then the bigger shocks are a good investment. I know when I was hauling water with both my '48 1/2 ton and '49 1-ton, I noticed after a few years that the replacement shocks (1-3/16" bore) were all leaking as I was really loading up the suspension but not moving in a hurry on any trip nor traveling tens of thousands of miles annually. B-1-B, -C, -D B-2-B, -C, -D Front -- Monroe 31000 = Monroe 59001 = Monroe 32293 Gabriel 81147 = Gabriel 82047 [1-3/8"] -- Monroe 34904 - Monroe 37098 - Monroe 37112 Gabriel 61500 - Gabriel G63689 Rear -- Monroe 32207 = Monroe 59017 Gabriel 81676 - Gabriel 82007 [1-3/8"] -- Monroe 555004 Gabriel 61550 = Gabriel G63949 - Gabriel G63299 B-3-B, -C, -D B-4-B, -C, -D Front & Rear [1-3/8"] -- Monroe 66858 - Gabriel 82065 The Monroe and Gabriel shocks are not exactly the same in extended and collapsed dimensions, but they are generally within 1/4" of each other. The best way I can explain this is that the Pilot-House trucks have a certain suspension travel, as do other makes & models that have similar geometry, and the manufacturers make shocks that fall within a certain range within that travel, so several different shocks could possibly fit a certain suspension geometry and still work. I would favor a shock that allows the spring to hit its bumpstop so that the shock is not bearing a severe load...conversely, a shock should still have some stroke left when the springs have reached max vertical travel so that the tires are not being lifted off of the ground prematurely, enabling more control of the vehicle in extreme situations. Obviously, the B-3 and B-4 shocks that are available now are more limited...just looking at the applications online, that 11/16" mounting diameter does not appear to be an industry standard as the 5/8" and 3/4" mounting diameters have been used on many shock configurations over the years. I would list the different colors that these shocks are coated, but some of the factory descriptions do not match the pictures on their websites...also, some vendors had different colors listed from the factory website, so I reckon ya get what you get in the box
  14. I've got an old dealer's parts book, and a majority of pages denote printing December 31, 1952...but on the drive shaft page, it says April 6, 1953 supersedes December 31, 1952...it also shows that the B-4-C uses 10-spline, but the 16-spline is used after S# 83388224 Det. and 85515400 S.L....flipping through various sections, this particular book has revised pages into 1955...so everybody is sorta right
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