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JBNeal last won the day on December 18 2019

JBNeal had the most liked content!

About JBNeal

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  1. additional information - 1955 C1B Build Thread
  2. the spacers would be just above the MC casting and would provide a flat surface for the bolt hex head...think of a donut with a bite taken out of it...this allows the adapter and MC to stay in the location you want it for proper clearance. As for the stresses seen, the original MC had a power boost by grabbing hold of the steering wheel and puckering up something fierce, so it had to withstand something like 500# loading on a bad day...the newer MC probably doesn't see that kind of loading since the power boost made the magic happen for most folks. I typically avoid countersinking in applications where the clamping material remaining would be less than 1.5X the thickness of the countersunk fastener...I have seen failures where bolts have pulled through material that was too thin, like a knife through butter, in high stress loading and fatigue failures. Stress calculations for the configuration you are shooting for could be done taking into account the material properties of your mating materials, but this rule of thumb has been surprisingly accurate given that said calculations were done by well-compensated automotive engineers somewhere along the line for the Jeep MC
  3. Melling Parts Lookup for MEP-14B shows that they call them Engine Expansion Plugs...factory shop manual calls them Welch Plugs...I lurnt they were called freeze plugs...when they leak, they get called something much saltier
  4. How'bout a spacer instead of countersinking to keep the adapter cross-section thickness greater at its highest stress points...might have to machine some donuts to slip over the MC casting and use 2 longer hex head bolts...
  5. Well yeah 565 I can toss that around like a football... The boat anchor I took across the scales a few months ago may have had some water in it, I had trouble getting it on the trailer tho...
  6. A fully assembled flathead weighs in about 750#; the block alone weighs about 160#... lift with the legs
  7. BR-series HD 4-wheel ABS use a cast iron bracket to attach the caliper to the spindles up front and Dana 80 axle in the rear, but the bracket is rarely the problem...the overall design is robust, however my experience has shown serious issues with replacement parts not being up to specifications 🤬
  8. My '49 had that filter on the draft tube, it still had most of the decal on it that instructed service by cleaning just like the crankcase inlet filter, same filter media for both...that flathead had almost as much fumes and drippings as my '48 that had the unfiltered draft tube, and both engines had been rebuilt. So I went forward with a PCV installation and was pleasantly surprised at the near elimination of fumes...the engine ran just as smooth as it had before starting with the PCV install, and the cab didn't get stinky when sitting at stop lights. Full plumbing of the PCV system from the crankcase inlet to the air filter should fully eliminate fumes. As long as the crankcase is open to the environment, fumes will persist, even with filtering...if the fumes are consumed through combustion, then they cannot escape into the environment except out of the tailpipe, far away from the comfort of the driver's seat
  9. I have been fighting with brake issues on the QuadCab for months and have a writeup pending...long story short: close ain't close enough when it comes to brake calipers 🤬
  10. JBNeal

    DOT 5

    additional information - DOT5 upgrade testimonial
  11. Maybe a piece of shower rod cover could be placed between the tailgate tube and the bracket... additional information - Tailgate Bushing Upgrade
  12. There are passages that lead from the head to the block that can also get clogged...ya might need to monitor the uniformity of heating in the block and head once put back together, employing an infrared thermometer would be very helpful...this can pinpoint if there are any hotspots in the castings, or if any abnormally cool areas exist that could indicate a coolant passage being blocked...areas to watch are the head near the firewall and the block near the starter, I have heard of heads clogging up there and have seen sludge halfway up the upper welch plug as these areas are the farthest away from the water pump...
  13. The coolant passages go around the combustion chamber in the block and the head, with a water distribution tube channeling coolant from the water pump throughout the block under the valve area. The drain near the distributor is on the water jacket side, which is notorious for collecting sludge for lack of turbulent flow in the coolant. It might be possible that drain has clogged already, and the block is nearly full of coolant. Ya might need to remove that drain and snake out the area with a stiff wire like a coat hanger...this is why I do preliminary testing with straight water, it's cheaper to cleanup while working bugs out of the system
  14. That timing chain appears worn...I could not find a specification for allowable chain deflection, but the FSM has one picture that shows a timing chain installed and it appears to have less than 1/2 the height of a link. The slack in that chain translates to the earliest form of variable valve timing, resulting in uneven idle, uneven performance, backfiring, etc. If you deflect one side of the chain outwards so that the other side is straight, that outward deflection will give you an idea about how close the chain is to hitting the cover. I have diagnosed many modern cars with worn timing belts as they would be slapping against the cover, so the inside cover of your flathead might tell ya if this chain may have been getting a little too friendly... additional information - Timing Chain Details additional information - Timing Chain Removal additional information - Timing Chain Installation
  15. just a thought: maybe you could work out a deal with a trustworthy member who has adequate online financial abilities to act as your agent...
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