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JBNeal last won the day on September 2

JBNeal had the most liked content!

About JBNeal

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  1. I believe the brake and clutch pedals do not align perfectly, and originally the rubber draft seals acted as a stop in a way, with the pedal arms coming very close to the bottom of the cab floor...as that rubber wore away, the pedals would start rubbing against the cab floor, and with further settling of the cab, motor and transmission mounts, the pedals could hit the cab floor and toe boards. So with the cab out of the way, the pedals have more range of motion (scroll thru the link): additional information - starter cable optional installation
  2. Was there any debris coming out of the flywheel area?
  3. I bought my laptop on closeout in 2009 and tolerated Vista until Windows 7 was on closeout in 2012...this older hardware / software combo is bolstered by a Norton security account, and suits my personal needs...I've used Windows 10 for awhile at several jobs and it doesn't do much more than the previous software it's based upon, just a different interface...I've helped family, friends and coworkers remotely work through performance issues on their ends, which has been kinda amusing at times cuz these same ppl will turn around and basically hire me to shovel out their barn after quickly solving technical PC issues they couldn't wrap their brains around for hours PB was free in a sense that there was no annual or monthly fee, just had to deal with ads...very much like watching TV and sitting through commercials, I can handle that time tradeoff. I am more irritated that I didn't even get 2 solid years of use out of their service before they changed their business model. On top of that is the time consumption to fix the mess that they have caused by their shifting requirements. I am well below their storage limitations, but now I've got too many links? That bandwidth restriction is a little dubious considering my content...it makes the whole pricing system seem arbitrary and that ain't right. Considering how much time and energy it will take to upload photos on a new hosting service with more agreeable terms and storage stability, this whole thing reminds me of a small town speed trap, where it's just easier to pay the cash fine and roll on rather than sacrifice the time needed to be exonerated in an inconvenient municipal court...except in the case of pb, the cash fine is monthly to offset any time lost in pursuing a long-term better deal...
  4. I received this email Sep.10: Logging into my PB account for the first time in months, I see that I have only used 315 MB of the 2.5 GB that I am allowed on the free plan, but I have used 381 images of the 250 that I am allowed on the free plan. My account interface on my laptop is not as user-friendly as I would like, as the top third of the screen seems to be locked with some kind of blank banner that doesn't change size no matter how much I zoom down on the screen. When I try to access my account on my tablet, this seems to be exacerbated by ads at the bottom of the screen that greatly reduce accessibility, and trying to view my account on my phone is useless as the top and bottom of the page are similarly blocked, leaving only a large postage stamp window to view folders and pictures. On top of that, it appears that a noticeable amount of content is still outright missing from several of my folders, presumably a result of that big outage they had recently. So apparently, photobucket is following through on their bait-and-switch strategy to increase their revenue streams by making files unavailable to even the account holders, which seems suspiciously like ransomware. I do not feel like rewarding their bad behavior by paying their ransom, and it looks like I am not the only one, as I have seen the pb missing images on a wide range of websites and forums while doing research on multiple projects this summer. To make things worse, Microsoft has been sending me emails about upgrading software as my 11 yr old laptop still uses Windows 7, which I bought and paid for and subsequently had to debug when I found out (from online forums) that MS had sent a malicious patch during a software update in 2016 that was like putting a boat anchor on a tricycle...some of those emails seem to suggest that they will be making a similar move to force Windows users to upgrade to their subscription plans or face the consequences of denial of service of obsolete software. And recently Google Play Music announced that this free service that was standard on Android OS will be deactivated soon, and be replaced by YouTube Music...when I tried fiddling with that last night, it too looks like it will be another bait-and-switch as there was a message that I would be using a free trial for Premium Music, but there were still 5 second ads that would play randomly while playing music that I paid for years ago from Amazon. So I'm guessing YouTube Music will be just like YouTube videos in that ads will run prior to playing a file that I want to access. I had looked at mp3 player apps awhile back, but the biggest drawbacks to many of those was that they would not work if their licenses could not be verified, which is a problem because I spend a lot of time in the boonies where there are annoyingly intermittent and lengthy signal interruptions. And the list goes on and on with all of these companies wanting to improve revenue, even with the economy not doing so great and the future very uncertain in many ways. The sheer volume of services available that require payment information upfront is unsettling considering the amount of electronic fraud that is occurring nowadays. This year alone, I have had problems with 5 of my credit cards being accessed without my permission, and one card has been shut down twice for fraudulent purchases made thousands of miles away. The irony is that I am not doing a great deal of internet shopping, but the cards I use locally are going into some database and that's where the problems are occurring. This is just another big hassle that eats up a lot of time trying to deal with it all...reminds me of why I got out of computer programming in the first place, spending so much time in front of a monitor, supplying information and moving information around and double-checking information, meanwhile I'm not getting much of anything tangible done in the real world...I would very much like to play ball with pb but the disruption of the service that I signed up for just a few years ago followed by the loss of files that were never ever supposed to have been lost still has not motivated me to want to be a paying customer when there is more than one game in town.
  5. I learned how to drive on a Farmall M when I was 10, and the trick I was taught to turn that tricycle steering was to keep the tractor moving, even if that means feathering the clutch to rock the tractor back and forth to make a sharp turn in tight quarters...this transferred to the '48 with the 6.50-16s, for as long as the truck was moving, even just a little, the turning of the steering wheel wasn't an impossible chore...if ya are going to move to a wider tire, this trick will become even more invaluable as wider tires will have even more resistance to turning at a standstill...what is happening is that if you are rolling over the pavement or dirt, even at a very slow speed, the steering resistance is low, but if ya are not rolling, steering resistance is very high because a large portion of the weight of the vehicle is trying to twist the contact surface, be it hard pavement or dirt, and that ain't easy... LT215/85R16s are a heavier tire than 6.50-16s, but them big radials do not need to be inflated to 50+psi during operation...they'll need a lot of psi to properly seat the beads (I usually put 70psi to make sure), but then deflate to 35psi and test drive...if still too harsh, deflate as needed but no less than 30psi...those radials will squat down at lower pressures, so your effective tire diameter has to be calculated as double the radius at the tire contact point...as a point of reference, the last 6.50-16s that were on the '48 were load rated C, and last time I checked, LT215/85R16 could be had load rated D, so those will be literally the next tire size up...if ya get E-rated, then you've gone too far
  6. The last time I talked to the local machine shop was a few weeks after the other machine shop abruptly closed due to the owner retiring and couldn't find a buyer...apparently all of his big equipment that he bought in the 50s was wore out, so no takers...the remaining shop was realistic, pointing out that his volume business is sbc dirt track racers and heavy construction equipment, flatheads were simple and easy but setting up equipment was the hangups, it would have to be grouped with other straight block work and the flat heads were sorta unique nowadays...he figured 12 week lead times in the winter and summer, maybe a little less in between...that's the downside of being the only game in town...I asked if they had considered expanding their business, and they'd smile with short splainin of how much of a logistical pain in the mmhmm that would be...and that's the way it goes with businesses that advertise by word of mouth
  7. Resistance may be added by lightly crimping the sheath behind the dash, just enough to drag on the wire but not so much that the wire gets in a bind...I wouldn't use a pair of pliers but rather a C-clamp so you can literally dial in the resistance that you want
  8. Do not trim but do massage the cork down into the channel arc towards its lowest point from both ends...I did that on the last rebuild and it seemed to help on install, didn't leak a drop from them areas either
  9. Maybe it would be easier to make a mold of your existing knobs then make new knobs with epoxy mix...that old bakelite is threaded on that cable end but you're right, if it's got visible cracks then it's about to crumble...if ya cut the knob off the cable end, that might preserve the knob as a memento but I don't know of a way to reuse that knob without damaging it... additional information - Merle's referenced cable rebuild
  10. I stacked the shims on the bottom plate then laid a RTV 1/8" bead along the inside shim edge, making sure the bead overlapped the shim and the plate, let it skin over for a few minutes, assembled it on the bench with bolts finger tight, then the next day torqued 1/4 turn...doing this puts RTV over the inside edges of the shims to prevent leaks, but allows for disassembly in the truck without destroying those thin shims
  11. That's not too bad...I've pulled oilpans off of flatheads that have sat outside for decades and there was plenty of surface rust inside from condensation...the '49 had enough sludge scraped out that I made a softball out of it (sorry, that Polaroid has gone lost)...I took a low-tech approach to cleaning the block internals by using the blue shop towels to wipe down every surface, then dipped a few in lacquer thinner to get the tougher carbons off...put all them filthy towels in a brown paper bag and used it to let the smoke out of the brush pile at the bottom of the hill...waste not, want not
  12. I used RTV black on both plates with no paper gasket, filled with JD corn head grease...hasn't leaked yet...I look at sealing the gearbox as similar to sealing an axle differential as materials and function are similar...on the next one I do, I'll go with gear oil RTV as a tube of that stuff goes a very long way
  13. additional information - oil galley plug removal
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