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JBNeal

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JBNeal last won the day on February 15

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About JBNeal

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  1. OK I see now that the driveshaft yoke is on the floor and that the differential yoke is not so the perspective makes that u-joint look small...btw what part number is that u-joint?
  2. With the rear axle at neutral position with no load on the axle nor hanging by the leaf springs, the end of the driveshaft spline should be about halfway into the sliding yoke at the transmission...when the rear axle is dangling in the air, that sliding yoke should be up against the driveshaft as pictured...when the rear axle is loaded to the bump stops, the sliding yoke should have about 1.5x to 2x the spline diameter engaged... The u-joint is held onto the yoke with u-bolts...might be able to get new ones at a good parts house or maybe a forum member has some sitting in an old mayo jar in their garage...
  3. I found that pressure bleeding is best done between 15-20 psig...below doesn't provide enough oomph to force the air bubbles out, above that seems like overkill that could damage the weakest component in the circuit... Something seems off on your u-joint setup, like the u-joint doesn't match the pinion flange width or cup seat radius...my B-4-B-116 has a u-joint cross length of under 3-1/2" and a cup diameter over 7/8"...
  4. I'm a little rusty on this but as I recall, the generator and voltage regulator need to be matched as they are working together to maintain the battery...if your generator output is greater than the regulator can handle, that's a recipe for letting some smoke out...check the technical information provided with the regulators to verify if it will work with your generator output...
  5. The risk of removing material from a drum is twofold: these drums have been out of production for decades, so great care has to be exercised to keep them usable...too much material removed from the drum might not be seen from a performance standpoint with new shoes, but as those shoes wear, the wheel cylinder pistons may travel too far in the bore and may get jammed or blow out, causing total brake failure from the ensuing brake fluid loss 😯 These are not self adjusting brakes, so every 5-10k miles, the brakes have to be measured and adjusted, which is a tedious task but necessary to optimize braking performance. With brake shoe wear, the distance between the shoes and the drums grows, increasing brake engagement time which ultimately lengthens braking distance. A few years ago, I replaced some suspension parts on The Blue Bomber, which amplified the vibration in the rear rotors...when I had them turned, they were under the min.thickness, but I had new brake pads so I ran those old rotors for another 30k without any problems...probably could have put another 10k on them, but had a break in my schedule and replaced them rotors which had 200k on them at that point...this budgetary approach to brake maintenance is kinda in between the lines in the shop manual for our old one tons, with the listing of only the gap between the shoes and the drum and not the maximum diameter
  6. I looked at the brake service chapter and there wasn't a maximum allowable diameter listed that I could find, but pages were spent detailing how to bond new brake material to shoes...these brakes are set with a gauge that is used after measuring the drum, which is detailed in the shop manual... additional information - brake service
  7. It's your dime so you make the call... for starters, the steering sounds like it needs adjusting, leaf spring bushings and shocks are probably shot too...that Dakota could be a good frame swap but it is A LOT of work that will take up a lot of space and time, which can also be said for a restoration...I have done mechanical restorations that allowed me to drive my old buggies for more than 10 yrs...several guys have made modifications to their existing powertrains to make daily drivers, such as front disk brakes and 3.73 rear axle (optimum for the original flathead), radial tires too...IMO the novelty of the 6V flathead 6 has its own WOW factor, but a daily driver is nice too, if there are not too many knucklehead uninsured drivers bouncing between the ditches...bottom line, the best approach is to plan ahead and proceed methodically, as tearing everything apart in fits and starts leads to loss of interest and unflattering yard art that causes friction with ppl within spittin' distance
  8. I learned my lesson on headlamp assembly replacement last year on my '01 QuadCab; long story short, headlamp brightness is nice but optics determines headlamp effectiveness...contact Daniel Stern Lighting for a possible solution
  9. Are the distributor innards sticking? There's some mechanical weights in there and a breaker plate that can get crudded up, kinda diminishes performance with misapplication of spark timing...
  10. 1. Those appear to be brake shoe lubricating washers and covers, needed to keep the brake shoe anchor bolts lubricated and free of moisture...not sure who supplies those, but ya might have some luck placing a parts wanted add for a member who might have an old mayo jar full of'm... 2. That shock absorber bushing washer might be available if ya purchase some new shocks, though ya might want to reach out to a parts house or the manufacturer to see if you can get them...the curved shape is to match the shock rubber bushing contour and keep the bushing and the shock from moving laterally... 3. Those 4 marks are evidence of staking with a cold chisel...this deforms the seal flange and its mounting surface enough to lock the seal in place so it will not spin nor pop out of its bore
  11. There is more than one way to port into the charged air from the crankcase as indicated by the various drawings that I referenced for the original PCV kit, but there are basically 2 paths from the crankcase: from the block, where the PCV valve is installed into the intake manifold; and from the oil fill tube, routed to the air cleaner housing. It is my understanding that the air cleaner provides pressure relief from the crankcase to atmosphere to avoid causing any issues with the carburetor, providing a path of least resistance in case of excessive combustion chamber blowby. Modern overhead valve engines just have a fitting on the side of the air cleaner to attach a hose from an intake valve cover (that is usually filtered), which could work on the oil bath air cleaner housing. The two ways described in the download section aren't as easy to complete, both requiring brazing a nipple through a drilled hole on the bottom of the housing...one version has a nipple through the oil bath, which is just a more difficult way to do the fitting on the side of the housing; and the other nipple is through the base of the housing below the oil bath, at an angle, which requires quite a bit of finagling in a very small space with thin material to make work but is possible and bypasses the oil bath entirely. I had an idea on how to make this work painlessly that would not require brazing but have been sidetracked something fierce for awhile now so I cannot conclusively say if it is worth the risk of damaging a working oil bath air cleaner that is not readily replaceable...adding a ported spacer to the top of the carb could work though
  12. Typically the flathead rear main seal leaks, they even designed a "fix" by adding oil-absorbent felt strips to the flywheel cover butted up to the oil pan and a drain hole to the flywheel pan...there should not be a vent on the top of that 3spd, and there isn't an input shaft seal in the traditional sense as they used a gasket on a flanged sleeve to keep gear oil from spilling out around that input shaft...if you have oil on both sides of your flywheel, then you've definitely got oil leaks from engine + transmission...
  13. According to a Mobil lube chart I picked up on eBay back in '98, the distributor is to be oiled at the oil cup on the side of the body with light engine oil every 2000 miles, with a few drops at the wick under the rotor every 10,000 miles, and a light film of grease applied to the points cam... think of how much those mechanical parts move on the breaker plate, I would assume it needs to move as smoothly as a door latch, so add a few drops of light engine oil to the mechanism if not for lubrication but also for moisture displacement...light engine oil has more surface tension than 3in1 or wd40, so it is more likely to "stick" to the metal parts... I have found that there is a lot of vagueness in lubrication procedures for these small parts in shop manuals and lube charts, but my guess is that these documents were aimed at mechanics who had a trained eye as to what needed lube and how much and how often, a skill that is lost on the inexperienced...I've had enough practice to kinda know what needs attention and how often, but it has taken years of accumulating experience to develop an eye for being a respectable grease monkey
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