Jump to content

Adam H P15 D30

Members
  • Content Count

    922
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    11

Adam H P15 D30 last won the day on October 23 2019

Adam H P15 D30 had the most liked content!

2 Followers

About Adam H P15 D30

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    SF Bay Area
  • My Project Cars
    Too Many

Converted

  • Location
    San Francisco Bay Area, Kalifornia
  • Interests
    Cars, Motorcycles, Boats etc.

Contact Methods

  • Occupation
    Ford

Recent Profile Visitors

1,805 profile views
  1. No, hoses don't care which side they are mounted on. When you remove it to replace the washers, inspect the caliper casting carefully for burrs or damage that might be causing the washers to not seal. You could also heat the washers with a propane torch till you see the copper start to turn color then let them cool slowly. I've seen some pretty hard washers before and done this a few times. Make sure to take a good look at the washers you remove to check the impression left from being compressed.
  2. That's 15 minutes more work than I got done on my projects I always do the disc brakes first as they take the most fluid. One trick I have learned is to NOT pump the brake pedal but slow movements full stroke until you get good fluid at the bleeders. Keep an eye on that reservoir level..
  3. Also, that reservoir is small, make sure to keep an eye on the fluid as the calipers fill.
  4. No problem bleeding the brakes.... Try removing the lines at the master cylinder and use your fingers to seal the holes while you have someone in the car slowly cycling the brake pedal, kind of like an on car bench bleed. Is there pressure? Check the holes at the bottom of the reservoir for obstructions, use a wire to clean them out. Was there any crud in the bore of the master cylinder when you took the rear cap off to remove the valve? I sprayed some crap out of mine while I was there.
  5. My guess would be the unique rear axle and only a 4.30 or 4.9 ratio available.
  6. I'm pretty sure that's what I used but I didn't move my hard line mounting point. Wish I had a better picture...
  7. The factory valve will be too much for disc brakes, been there - done that. Remove it and try without any valve, you may be pleasantly surprised as I was years ago.
  8. With 4.3 gears, get an adapter and use a 518 OD or a 200 4R.
  9. Are you running stock 15" wheels? If so, check clearance with the Scarebird kit installed.
  10. Contact Wayfarer here on the forum (73RR on the HAMB), he has what you need. Either way an adapter is in your future.
  11. I took the rubber out of the valve and reinstalled the metal part. Is you rear axle disc or drum brakes? I am using this on the 49 with the flathead. The HEMI car has 4 wheel power disc brakes. Nothing stock except the body and the middle 6 feet of frame.
  12. Yes, at the time I was thinking about adding the residual pressure valves but I tried it without them. That was ~5 years ago and thousand of miles ago.
  13. Hello Michael, I run a 3.0 rear axle with 235.60.15 (26") rear tires, runs about 3000 RPM at 70 and works well with no overdrive. Just wish I had a taller 2nd gear... When I commute regularly I get about 18-19 mpg. I have a 2.8 gear set I may try but for now it works. Remember I have a short rear tire, better to choose a shorter and lighter tire and adjust your gear ratio to match instead if cramming a large heavy tire in there. Adam
  14. I used the gaskets to make mine. Lots of measuring, fitting, measuring and starting over.... In the end it worked great
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use