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  1. 3 points
    Pipeyjoe

    Lets see pic of your trucks

    Heres my old girl!
  2. 3 points
    Plymouthy Adams

    Glasspacks

    I guess I am a bit different....when I stopped by in my 54 Savoy to see Jake, at State Farm, yes no joke his name and my agent....he asked me to start the engine so he could hear it, imagine his surprise when I said it is running now....
  3. 2 points
    Sniper

    Mid Michigan flood

    I spent years living on the water, but it was in a US Navy destroyer, lol.
  4. 2 points
    as an added and in case you get an inexperienced counter attendant...(notice I did not say parts agent).....Napa stock this in their inventory under part number 65-201
  5. 2 points
    GL1 is readily available at NAPA..if not in stock is in their inventory and available on an overnight....maybe same day if you get there early....it is gallon container but relax, that gallon is better priced than many quarts of other similar lubes....I bought a gallon not long back for under 17.00
  6. 2 points
    BBQ 2020 is in the past, the future is now........I'M READY FOR BBQ #14 2021 BROTHER!!! Lets hope we get through the year with our health intact, and our jobs sound! Here's to friends!!!! Tim aka 48Dodger
  7. 2 points
    I would like to comment on this installation. First off it looks like you did a first class job on it. Bravo! As far as adjustments go I think what you did is just fine. In reality you may make a few adjustments early on to get the correct balance in your braking system. But once you have got it where you want it you won't actually need to touch it. I have had my truck in daily use for over 5 years now and have not had to make any further adjustments. Of course I don't race it....but it has been used more than most trucks here. Hth, Jeff
  8. 2 points
    Tooljunkie

    Lets see pic of your trucks

    So my up and coming truck.made the deal yesterday.
  9. 2 points
    Worden18

    Me and the B-1-D

    10-4-19: Tomorrow I will move the truck one space closer to the Meadowbrook. I might slide it over on wheel dollies as there is no garage door there. 4 car garage, 3 doors 😁. I'll need to park my work car where the truck is now. Getting close to window scraping weather here. BTW fellas, there was nothing under the seat!
  10. 2 points
    Don Coatney

    Door Adjustment

    Joe; Billy Austin just sent me this short film clip on door adjustment. It's a great example of the body wedge fulcrum method. The language the mechanics use is a bit raunchy but there technique is effective. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3p58wHX4e0g
  11. 1 point
    kridgleyud

    1940 Dodge D14 Build Thread

    Hello everyone. I wanted to start a one-place thread to update the group on this build. I have a couple little threads out there, but this one will tell the story (comedy or tragedy, we'll see) on the breathing new life into my 1940 Dodge D14. To tell the story, we have to rewind to 2008 ... that is when I sold my 1973 Stingray. The wife and I then got a boat ... and you know what they say about those. Fast forward through 7 years or so of nagging her until she finally caved and agreed to get another car ... her only requirement, it needed to have 4 doors ... done. I knew I wanted to get a prewar car and I started this adventure in 2015 looking to get a 1937 Desoto. The deal fell through the day I was going to pick it up - the seller decided not to sell it/ or sold it to someone else, I'll never know now. A few weeks went by and I found this 1940 gem for sale in Pennsylvania ... called the guy and went right out to take a look. Here are the photos when we looked at it/brought it home back in 2015. Cutting it close on the prewar era and some say it;s not ... but it was made by the US in the US and we were still technically not IN the war until 41 ... that's my story!
  12. 1 point
    Bdblazer1978

    Starting my B2C restoration.

    We're planning on keeping it stock except the brakes. Since this is my first restoration and first old truck, I'm with you and it's a lot safer to be able to reference the manual. The disk brakes were relatively easy. Because it's a 3/4 ton I've had to make a couple modifications. I'm having custom brake hoses made and I ordered wheel adaptors so I can run the original wheels. No idea on previous work to the engine. This is my first re-build so I'm reading a lot and asking the machine shop a ton of questions.
  13. 1 point
    keithb7

    First flathead!

    I found this drawing of a '48 Plymouth. Is your Desoto the same? I see a hood latch cable here too.
  14. 1 point
    Dodgeb4ya

    Shop lift

    Our sales taxes are going to end up as much as the item pretty soon because of the current situation going on.
  15. 1 point
    westaus29

    1938 Aussie 7 Passenger Plymouth

    I have visited this site a few times in the past but recently started again and have been impressed with the activity, the assistance offered and the relevance to my interests. I currently have a 1929 Plymouth tourer with body by Holden Australia restored on club licence since 1999, a 1955 Plymouth Belvedere Suburban RHD built in Detroit with 259 V8 and 2 speed auto also on club licence, and a 1938 7 passenger Plymouth with Aussie Richards body, in a million pieces. This my first attempt at a post with pics so hope it works. I purchased the '38 running and licensed in Feb 1981 with the plan of having a car I could use for club events while I slowly rebuilt my 1929 Plymouth from a wreck. It was painted black, the engine barely ran and the leather upholstery was falling apart, but we drove it onto the trailer under its own steam. I cant find any pictures of it as bought but I must have been dazzled by the fact it was a 7 passenger and had all its chrome and fittings. There was no water in the radiator and It turned out the engine had a hole in the head above No 1 cylinder, every pot had broken rings, and water had corroded the bearings, crank and camshaft. The bottom of each centre door post was rusted out, and there was rust in the boot (trunk) area. By July 1982 I had it on the road with new paint (Ford Neptune Blue), new tyres and a temporary engine out of a 1936 Dodge utility (pickup) that we found abandoned up in the hills, and sheets tacked over rebuilt seat frames. My daughter in the pic below is now 41! In the next couple of years I fixed oil leaks, replaced spring bushings, brakes and wheel bearings and changed the diff from original 7 passenger 4.3 to standard 4.1 ratio as we tend to travel longish distances. By 1984 I was ready to replace the interior with upholstery in original blue leather. When I stripped the hood lining I discovered I had serious rust issues under the lead used in large quantities on the roof, which was fabricated from a standard roof cut in half with a central insert about 18 inches wide. The repairs were completed by Nov 1985 and the car was back on the road, however the upholstery guy was no longer available. In 1988 we had a surprise addition to the family, a baby girl after 17 year drought! The upholstery money went on adding a bedroom. In the meantime the car was used as a daily driver by my wife on the school run - rule was "no running in the car"! By 1995 the brake lines had rusted thru, the radiator had collapsed for the second time, the exhaust was shot, valves keep sticking and to cap it off I backed it into our Falcon wagon and badly dented the boot. I deregistered it in disgust as by that time I was making progress on the 29. Fast forward to 2012 and we have changed address, I now have 1/2 acre and a 5 bay shed. However to fit the 7 passenger in it I had to remove the front clip. The car is now a mobile storage unit for surfboards, wetsuits and a couple of broken chairs. But it still runs! I plan to post an outline of the rebuild process which started in 2012, but here is a recent pic of the body on a home made rotisserie - stripping back roof to bare metal after a VERY bad sand blast and prime job. Jim
  16. 1 point
    Ulu

    ebay bidding

    That's quite the nice hub puller. I need to dig mine out. My Scout has a typical frozen parking brake. Hasn't been released in 30 years. Maybe more. I'll probably have to heat the hub, unless I get lucky, and the guy that installed Dad's 4:88 gears put a good coat of anti-seize on, back in 1962. That's only 58 years. I don't think we ever touched the rear brakes. Anyhow I used eBay to buy that OT kit car I posted, and I got lucky and came in $1000 less than my max bid. But I would have been happy either way, because nobody wanted it more than I did and I won.
  17. 1 point
    I have been searching for threads that I have read before about which axle to use. But, today I couldn't fine the information I wanted. Can we generate a list of axles that make a good swap. Don, I know about the list of old mopar cars, I'm looking for the years of Dakota, ranger, explorer and others that may be less than 30-years-old.
  18. 1 point
    minicooper

    ANSWERED Tailgate support bracket

    My 52 3/4 ton still sports the original bed. The support bracket goes under the shovel strip so that it’s the same level as the other strips. The bed wood has quite a deep route for it. The tailgate on my B3C, however, has been modified with an opening for a grain slot, so the bracket offers no support. -roland
  19. 1 point
    DJ194950

    Necessity of Bench Bleeding?

    Come on all- fess up- have we all not found that out- After the fact!! 😲 I know I did-several times over the years- Oh ya, Now - I remember that happens with the cap left off! πŸ™ƒ DJ
  20. 1 point
    It can sit there for a long time on a cold engine....it will be a puddle if down there....plugs can be will be wet or dry ...I have been thru this,,,worth checking out. I understand maybe a weak spark but it did run fine till it sat and incorrect after sitting start procedure can get you into this situation. If it is flooded... leave the throttle open for few hours or a day...put throttle back to closed .... a pump or too and try cranking it... hopefully it will start up.
  21. 1 point
    I had one sit a long time like that and rusted the top 1/2 of the ring gear. It made a wow wow wow noise . It was not real loud but enough that I had to replace it.
  22. 1 point
    kencombs

    Differential - Looking for a Warm Fuzzy

    Evaporust should take care of that. Worst case there may be some light pitting left, and maybe some noise but maybe not as the rust appears to be only on part of the tooth surface. I'd just clean up and install. And would avoid bead blasting unless it is to be taken completely apart to clean. Blasting media gets into every crevice, bearing and other hiding spots.
  23. 1 point
    Dozerman51

    1939-40 Chrysler Aluminum Head

    Here two photos of an Aluminum Head I picked up a few years ago. Soon, I hope to install it on the IND-7(236.6) which is installed in my WC 1/2 ton Military 4x4. it will save me weight over the 41' Spifire head I have on it now, and it has been shaved down for some higher compression. I have bought a Chrysler steel head gasket as they say to use steel instead of cooper.
  24. 1 point
    John H.

    Front brake drum questions.

    I guess that's what happens when you're working on an old vehicle. Every owner has made their mark somewhere along the line. I'm just going to take my time, photograph everything, and take notes. Again, I appreciate the help and input, and I wish you all well with all of the crap that's going on. John.
  25. 1 point
    Eneto-55

    Unrestored vs restored controversy

    All interesting comments. I just react against the idea that I am "only the caretaker" of my old car, not the "owner". As I said, I DO like to see an original car, but I am not interested in creating some sort of museum piece that I don't dare drive. That's another thing about getting a real low mileage car - you almost can't drive it much at all, because its main "claim to fame" is that it is low mileage. When I bought my 46, it already had over 91,000 on it. I just want to make it as reliable as I can, and if that means some modifications then I'll do that (but then again, nothing drastic like a modern drive line, or a frame graft). I'd like to be able to redo the interior with some fabric that at least looks close to the original mohair, but at this point, I'm thinking more about trying to find something that looks like the typical seat covers of that era, because that's what I remember as being in almost every car my folks had when I was growing up. (To put that in context, my memories start in the very late 50's, when I was 4 or 5.)
  26. 1 point
    I have a 39 Desoto that has been AACA judged HPOF Historical Preservation of Original features. And yes the car has been repainted because the original paint was starting to flack off and then getting rust on the body. So to keep the car running and usable did a repaint down to bare metal. Fixed the old cloth cover wiring to modern wiring because of possible fire and other electrical issues. Headliner was real bad and replaced mohair seat covering and door panels are original but show their wear for being 80 + years but basically a good presentable car for the time period. I state the car as semi original but I can drive it and have fun with it and not worry about someone touching the car. Even the total 100point cars are not fully restores. I even brought this to the AACA attention because most glass was replaced and the original glass had a date code and manufacturers seal in the glass most cars that are senior winners from the 50's and back do not have the original glass if it was replaced. So with that being stated every senior and or grand national car will have something not original so there can never be a 100 point car. At one point the AACA took several of their most experienced senior judges and asked them to judge a modern car that was taken directly from a dealership and had not been owned by anyone. These judged then started to deduct points point based on what they had been schooled on via the AACA judging rule book. After the car was finally judged and the scores were given in they were all informed that no matter what they think they found wrong with the car based on their experience there could not be any points deductions. They all asked why. The real answer is that this is a factory delivered car and how it is shown it is perfect and a 100 point car. The senior judges were given a lesson as a joke to them and the AACA. A lot of the cars that are AACA senior winners are over restored and on some of the older cars the fit and finish was not down to having evenly space seams. The idea was to get the car off the assembly line and were not basically an item to be judged.. It was basic transportation except maybe for the real high cost cars. So restored partially restored or semi original or total original is the owners choice to do what ever they want. It all depends on what they want to do and if they have the funds to do anything to the car. But basically as I see it the idea is to keep the car running and enjoy the hobby. Rich HArtung desoto1939@aol.com
  27. 1 point
    tom'sB2B

    Flathead 6 Rebuild Information

    I encourage you to read this thread.
  28. 1 point
    Earl Gray

    ANSWERED Gyromatic is Stuck

    Very helpful. Thank you! I disconnected the battery many times while trying to get the wiring right (cross-referenced post below) that it most likely reset it then. Good to know a solid solution. Thanks again!
  29. 1 point
    RobertKB

    Unrestored vs restored controversy

    I have both restored and unrestored cars. I think a lot depends on how unrestored you want it. I have fully restored two cars that were basket cases to begin with and maintained two originals. Pictured is a 1953 four-door Plymouth Belvedere (Canadian only model as the US did not have the four-door Belvedere). It is 95% original including the paint. I did replace a badly torn headliner and replaced the factory carpet. Other than that pretty original. It has had a ring job and valve lap about 30,000 miles ago. Present mileage is 101,000 and is driven often when the weather is nice. It has its share of gravel rash, dings in the trim, and the bumpers show some wear but overall pretty decent. They are only original once.
  30. 1 point
    Plymouthy Adams

    Carburetor/choke problems

    the sissons choke has to be operated properly...you only get voltage to the solenoid when cranking and why it is important to depress the pedal when cranking and let up to set the choke as it will be able to overcome the stops of the choke and fully close. If you hit the gas pedal from there while starting or between starting you will again have to depress the pedal and release during cranking to over come the stops and again set the choke closed. Else it will default to a partial choke.
  31. 1 point
    The residual valvu is the first thing inside the back of the master cylinder.
  32. 1 point
    Nick, here is the thread about how I stopped the leaks on my transmission: https://p15-d24.com/topic/50800-chasing-transmission-leak-48-p15/?tab=comments#comment-538887 At this point it would be very easy for you to pull the transmission and reseal it. I had rather try that first than mess with the rear seal.
  33. 1 point
    pflaming

    Time for an overhaul...

    I too, just read this thread. I started this hobby some 10+/- years ago and realize that I’m now in the advanced novice stage. Yet it is an enjoyable experience. I only knew how to change oil and plugs when I started. To those who have helped teach me, thanks.
  34. 1 point
    kencombs

    Time for an overhaul...

    Glad to hear feedback on the oil pressure. I've been debating the full flow mod as you did it. Sounds like the hole placement and line sizing has been proven in your use. Now, just to get up the nerve to drill/tap my block.
  35. 1 point
    greg g

    Time for an overhaul...

    Just read this thread. The step up valves are entering he equation of afr at cruise because the total vacuum signal that held one valve closed is now being shared by each carb. So each carb is getting half or 1/3 of the single carb signal meaning that the spring tension will not be completely overcome leaving valves partially opened when they would normally be closed at steady level road cruise.
  36. 1 point
    Worden18

    Me and the B-1-D

    10-4-19: Finally got the truck running again and moved into my garage from the barn. Took me forever as usual. My son kept me company. The points were out of adjustment. The carb linkage is sticking too, causing the engine to rev. I kept it down by pulling the choke out. I'll figure it out. Main thing is that I got the truck moved. I feel good about that. Now I can get it up on blocks and work on the brakes among other things. I have a special plan for some patina'd lettering. It's gonna be really cool. πŸ˜‰ Pic 1: still stuck in the barn. 😐 Pics 2 & 3: in the garage!
  37. 1 point
    dndrodshop

    engine swap

    Sedan Delivery project - 5.2 EFI Mopar motor, 5 speed manual, air ride suspension , Dakota front clip, 4-bar rear suspension
  38. 1 point
    chopt50wgn

    ANSWERED SUCESSFUL REAR AXLE SWAPS.

    This is a pic from the rear of my 50 Ply wagon. We put an Heidts independent rear in. My buddy Tim who is a fabricator by trade and has 30 years experience building hot rods and race cars did the install. Car rides like a new Caddy.
  39. 1 point
    48ply1stcar

    ANSWERED SUCESSFUL REAR AXLE SWAPS.

    I think this is what your looking for.
  40. 1 point
    well....for the life of me...can't upload my pics and they are'nt even 2 mb!! I give up...you will have to trust me! Ha!
  41. 1 point
    Thank you guys! I appreciate the illustration and the tip with the longer end bolts! Here is a picture of my 49, Its my first Mopar!
  42. 1 point
    ggdad1951

    bed wood for 1/2 ton

    The species of wood possibly varied by location of the plant is my guess. Southern Yellow Pine was what I was told was original (and seemed right on inspection from FEF). I used WHITE OAK as it WILL NOT rot or do bad things in weather. The proper color is to be PAINTED BLACK, not all prettified (unless that's your direction) and left ROUGH cut. The ONLY, and I repeat ONLY, location to get the RIGHT bed strips is from Midwest Military (https://midwestmilitary.com/) where they have their own dies to make the strips. Mar-K and Horkey all use Chevy/Ford strips in their kits. As noted ^^^ you can check out my bed build thread in my sig lines. Can't wait to see what you end up with!
  43. 1 point
    dpollo

    bed wood for 1/2 ton

    I have a 52 and I made new box planks from local west coast fine grained fir. The original wood was some sort of eastern hardwood which in fact seemed pretty soft. I have not had the truck out in the wet so I do not know yet if the fir will cup but I have sealed it pretty thoroughly. The thickness is 7/8 and the grooves for the box strips which I bought from Mar K can all be cut on a tablesaw. What surprised me is that the outer planks are tapered as the box is actually one inch wider at the tailgate than at the front panel. I do not know if all trucks are that way but mine certainly is which means I have to re make the outer planks. The truck is not at my home now so I cannot give you dimensions other than the thickness. I can recommend MarK for their box strips and bolt kit. They probably sell wood too . Have a look at their on line catalog.
  44. 1 point
    80 dodge diplomat on my 51 Cambridge. I didn't do it.
  45. 1 point
    I didn't have any work to do ON my truck, but since today was designated "yard work day" I decided to work WITH my truck. I used it to run to Menards for some mulch.
  46. 1 point
    JBNeal

    Basic Engine Info

    Thoughts on Mopar Flatheads 1 Thoughts on Mopar Flatheads 2 Thoughts on Mopar Flatheads 3 Links to Building Threads Experience Builders Flathead Gotchas Spark Plugs Engine Oil Engine Oil Filter Engine Oil Filter Installation
  47. 1 point
    Last weekend drove the car 120 + miles round trip to Rust-o_rama in Salem. Car drove great, 5th gear 65 mph all day long. Only had to shift down into 4th when I had to pull the Santiam grade just south of Salem..But still was able to maintain 56 mph climbing the hill with the Ol' 201 Flatty..im very happy..
  48. 1 point
    Spent the entire day under the truck. Sore today. Bed is ready to lift off. Lubed U-joints. Removed old tail pipe. Removed, cleaned, chased and reinstalled all axle to spring mounts. Mounted new rear shocks. Jeff
  49. 1 point
    TodFitch

    218 Oil Filter question

    http://www.ply33.com/Parts/group10#1121694
  50. 1 point
    cwcars88

    Door Adjustment

    Is it possible that there is nothing wrong with the door, but the front fender is what needs to be adjusted?
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