Sniper

The parking brake was never designed to stop the car. It's there to keep it from rolling when parked and even then on a hill it is suggested to turn your wheels and put it in gear. Can it be used when your brakes fail? Yes, but it's so ineffective that the OEM's went to a split hydraulic system to provide redundancy in case of a failure. Which I will be doing as well. Pretty sure I am going to go split front/rear and not diagonally as the latest vehicles are set up. The later style parking brakes that lock each drum in the rearend would have prevented what happened to me. For

I usually flip my spare so I can at least slide under the bed and check it without having to drop the spare. As for TPMS, been looking at retrofitting a TPMS setup to the Cambridge. Lots of options out there.

The gap looks to be way off too. All of that stuff needs fixed or checked, as needed. Hopefully we can help him get it running.

Vintage Power wagons sells mains for the 25" engines, they also ship overseas. Not sure if you are looking to get them local or what. https://www.vintagepowerwagons.com/ordering-shipping-information

Some of us actually like to shift gears and are old enough that having someone ride next to you isn't a thing. If we really wanted to go the full route, put in an OD automatic then you never have to shift, you can keep a column shifter, torque multiplication, lock up converter and Bob's yer uncle. As for getting a more modern rear ale, I have to state this. I changed a flat this morning. Put the E brake on, stuck it in gear and jacked up the pass rear side. Just as I was pulling the tire off the car started to roll back and fall off the scissors jack. That's when th

Dug out my spare distributor. Took a shot of the points gap fully open. Took a feeler gauge to verify .020" gap.

Can't disagree about going with what works for you.

Federal law makes it illegal to vent freon, it must be captured. Who knows what California has tossed atop that one. I got a mobile AC license years ago to buy R12. I do have a pump that is capable of pump freon into a container. But that was 30+ years ago and who knows what they might require now.

The start to open temp is usually where the thermostat is labeled. So 160. But remember, thermodynamics and the understanding of how engines operate has increased tremendously since our cars were built. Today;s engines can last over 150k miles with simple maintenance. Ours were lucky to hit 100k, usually much less. A lot of it had to do with machining processes, material choices and lubricant improvements. But don't forget moisture in the oil is harmful no matter when the engine was built. All that sludge found in old engines? Too cool thermostats helped put it there. Lots

I believe that picture right there is what prompted me to build my setup

That's very true. Had that happen to me once or twice over the years.

I had the same question when I got my 230, well just for the engine. 700lbs was the number I recall being mentioned, for just the engine. So I (way over)built my gantry crane. Didn't even grunt picking it up. My shop crane is pushing 30 years old, so i don't think I trust it that much.

Might be internal, but there is one.

Military spec Dodge 230. Pricing may be a good deal if it's in good shape, as in ready to run.

Now that is something modern trucks could use. Factory puts them in with the stem up, facing the bottom of the bed and no one ever checks them.