Sniper

Might want to look into these https://www.armyjeepparts.com/p-1004-nut-special-brass-self-lock-exhaust-manifold-503354.aspx

Like Los Control, I live in West Texas. So I grow roses. I am not much of a green thumb but I can grow roses. I see some real nice lawns and gardens out there and I think to myself, I wonder what kind of PITA is that to mow? Since my old lady and I split up I have be removing the obstacle course she's built over the years so I can mow easier. Once I get her haphazard design out of the way I'll probably build some box planters that are low maintenance and easy to mow around. In front of the house she had planted some sage, it was like living in a cave so out they all went. So much brighter and cleaner looking. Not to mention I don't have to prune them. I have a few more bits of shrubbery to pull and a tree to take out then I am done with that part of the clean up.

I have my own mixer, but there is no way I'd try to pour something as big as that with it. My finishing tools consists of a 2x4 and some trowels, so no big pours for me. While I can probably rent powered finishing tools, I have zero experience using them.

Brass won't lock up to the stud with corrosion. As for the shape, it's to allow the ends of the exhaust manifold to move as it expands and contracts with heat. Otherwise it would crack.

I had a similar issue years ago, it was the coil failing when hot. Unfortunately, it was on an 87 Dodge Diplomat so how relevant that might be, I dunno. I put a new coil in it and relocated to a place that wasn't 6 inches from the exhaust manifold and had no further problems.

Working on someone else's repair jobs it not for the faint of heart. Good luck.

Some generic thoughts I have regarding mechanical clutch actuation. Years ago I had a Dodge Diplomat that I converted from automatic to stick. When I did that all the clutch linkages, pivots, bushing and such were brand new. What a smooth operating setup, very similar to what we have in our rides. I would go thru the clutch actuating system, clean it all up, new bushings at the pivot points, properly lubricated. I know my 51 needs bushings. Engine and trans mounts can also affect it's operation, so look at them. As for the adjustment, the specs you list are similar to what the Diplomat's setup called for. I never use clutch pedal free play as the setting, it's too inaccurate, imo, especially if the linkage has wear. I would set my adjustment so that I had .060" clearance between the clutch disc and the pressure plate as this is where the adjustment is most relevant. As for the pedal free play, it was what it was and I didn't care as long as I had that .060" clearance. What I do not know is if that would be doable on our setups, haven't tried it. A clutch linkage rebuild is on my list of things to do and once I do that I will see. I may have to drill an access hole to do this, but I'll do what I need to do. Hope this might help

On my 51 that wire is bolted on, not soldered. I believe my gasket is some flavor of rubber. Buna N, or nitrile, is good for gasoline. Not so good if it has Ethyl Alcohol in it.

My engine number doesn't match my VIN either, just like yours not even close. My title reflects the engine number, not the VIN, so if I ever swap that engine out I might be having issues. In fact I have never owned a flathead Mopar that had those numbers match. My older ones (38 and 40) had a body number, my 51 has a vehicle identification number and a lot of states used the engine number on the title.

To my brothers and sisters who did not return. You are not forgotten.

Is his name Curley Howard?

Spiral wound non-resistors are the best. The conductivity of copper core, the RF suppression of carbon core. That's what I am running in the link above.

Nice work. I;m a dirty neck hotrodder at heart so I like custom mods. I've been rolling around an idea to put my radio delete plate in the 51 on some sort of setup to allow it to slide down and out of the way and put a modern radio in there area behind it. As well as the USB connection for my Microsquirt EFI setup. I'm thinking some sort of radio with a display screen that can incorporate a back up camera, satellite radio and the such. Then again Microsquit can accommodate digital gauges on a tablet, thinking on a new gauge cluster doing that.

Sort of like how you break a cinder block with your bare hand, you don't hit it where the support is, you hit it between the supports and it breaks easy, well easier. I imagine where you put the weight of the car is the key factor.

I spent years living on the water, but it was in a US Navy destroyer, lol.