Sniper

Threaded standoffs might work https://www.mcmaster.com/91075A030/ Stainless https://www.mcmaster.com/93620A030/ zinc plated steel https://www.mcmaster.com/93505A033 aluminum https://www.mcmaster.com/92700A030/ zinc plated brass

Technically speaking, if there are no dedicated fuses then the wiring becomes the fuse. Not a good thing,

It would be easy to make a 6 or 12 volt version. Just make the 6v version and add a dropping resistor to run 12v. You could build it in the housing and use a hidden switch to select whichever voltage setting you need.

In the installation instructions is says 12V negative ground only

Yesterday's job was a 10 hour round trip, I could have driven to Denver in that time, lol.

H6006 C1 are 6v Halogens

Sae 30 is available in detergent and non-detergent varieties with the non detergent variety most commonly found for compressor duty, DO NOT use that one. make sure it is for engine use. There is no "weight" in oil designation the W refers to the winter or cold viscosity rating. https://knowhow.napaonline.com/what-does-the-w-mean-in-oil/ Both of these points I discussed with my son last oil change we did. We were discussing the differences in oil requirement between his BMW and my 51, while at Walmart looking for the proper oil for his ride.

I have seen many 6v cars using battery cables appropriate to a 12v car, too small. Add in some crusty connections and it's problematic. Rockauto sells new battery cables of the right size if you want to go with new, yours look to be 6v cables though, I usually put a thin coat of antisieze on them. It's a bypass filter, they work, after a fashion. Some have modified the oiling system to use a full time filter like on modern cars. Common setup back in that era. Probably needs adjusting, the manual should help. The brakes need regular adjusting, not knowing how long it's been since then might be a good idea to do that. The puller is readily available and not too expensive. Some have been able to loosen the axle nut a couple thread, put the cotter pin back in and drive it around the block a few times to pop them loose. I have never had 100% success with that. They do that, the road draft tube is a source. If you are use to rack and pinion steering, most modern cars, it will always feel loose. Keith, on this site, has a pretty good write up on what he did to rebuild his, a video too I believe, Not likely to find a reman though, the steering column shaft is one piece all the way thru the box. I'd change the trans and diff fluid, so I start from a known point. Probably flush the brake system too, I have a post here detailing a power bleeder I got from Motive that makes it a snap, Nice looking ride. Those cars are a lot more maintenance intensive than newer ones. You will have dozens and dozens of grease fittings to lubricate. I bought a cordless grease gun just for that. The site has a lot of info, the search function isn't the best though. Poke around, read up, ask away.

I remember when I got my first car with halogen headlights, wow!

That's because they think they know better without really knowing what' going on. If they ran the suggested coil, or at least verified the coil they want to run meets spec they would be ok. But no, they know better, lol. I can be a bit, lol, pendantic sometimes but really if the people that built it say to do something, I am doing that unless I have a real good and researched reason why I am doing different.

While I won't disagree that no matter how idiot proof one tries to make something a better idiot will come along and mess it up, but installing a Pertronix is almost idiot proof.

I dunno, later mopar transmissions that I have dealt with do not have a gasket between the trans and bell housing, Not sure why they put on in there. Also, they usually have a welch plug to seal the end of the counter shaft. Not sure if one could be fitted here.

Heck, if you wander far enough to meet up with Los, let me know, I am only about an hour and a half south of him, I'll head up that way. Although today i get to drive to Sierra Blanca, got a job to do for the BP.

Pretty sure it's a drain for any leakage around the input shaft retainer..

https://www.moparmontana.com/tech-faq.html