Sniper

Started the tear down. I was surprised at how clean it was behind the tappet covers. Couple of stuck valves though. My opportunity to show how to loosen them without vice grips or damage to them. Right now I have penetrating oil on them and am letting them sit . I'll resume the tear down next week when my son is back.

It's for the sending unit to tell the fuel gauge in the dash what's going on. I used 16 gauge when I replaced mine.

I remember my first real job after I go to out of the Navy, now mind you this was after doing a couple deployments in the gulf, fighting with the Iranians and then the whole Desert Storm thing Iraq tried to pull. Anyway, I was working at a semiconductor R&D facility keeping their stuff running. The production bays had electric door openers that had a plate to press to in order to open the door. Being years old some of them had to be pressed firmly so I got into the habit of just palm smacking them going in and out of the bay. This particular day I was shuttling between a pro

I suspect those questionable people skills were more a case of not putting up with foolishness. I mean, after all the depression, WWII, Korea and the bomb were the defining events of your formative years so some snowflake whining about his lack of ho hos is probably something you find hard to sympathize with, I know I do.

I was one of the first X'ers, born Feb of 65. Three of my 4 kids are in the millennial age group, but they aren't millennials, lol. My youngest is a gen z.

I plan to use the Felpro on my aluminum head setup, a Dodge 230. I understand they are more forgiving in this application. Iron block, aluminum head. Studs or bolts, in my mind either will work, I will be using both in my setup. Hardened washers are a must, with a dab of oil between the washer and bolt head/nut to prevent galling of the aluminum. No idea on the plug question though.

Nothing wrong with a manual choke conversion, especially when you consider that finding the proper Sisson setup will likely be expensive. I think the confusion came about when no one realized your setup had been converted.

Seriously?

Done

Your original choke setup ought to be just like mine. You have a sisson choke bolts to the top of the exhaust manifold forward of the car. there is a rod that goes from that to the choke butterfly in the top of your carb. That is missing. See my choke setting page for how it looks originally. I suspect that cable in your hand was someone's attempt at making it a manual choke setup. http://www.yourolddad.com/choke

In the following link, 7th pic down, shows where the carb number is located. You will need that to get the right info and parts. http://www.yourolddad.com/tune-up This link has a download for the Carter BB service manual. It ought to be of use

When you said 241 my first thought was small Dodge hemi lol. Here I am living in the future.

the Idle mixture screw will be towards the base of the carb, on my carb it's next to where the hard line for the distributor vacuum advance screws into the carb. It has a spring on the screw, only one like that. You can see it in my carb rebuild write up http://www.yourolddad.com/carb-rebuild As for the air filter question. Maybe is the best answer I have. Some have seen on race engines with a 4bbl a modest increase in hp with a properly designed base attached as it is thought to smooth the airflow into the carb. How that may apply to our stuff, well only a dyno te

Not a problem. You don't hear much from us X'ers because most of us learned long ago how to take care of ourselves and not worry about what other's are up to. We lived thru both gas crunches, Vietnam, 60's hippie nonsense, the Nixon thing, Disco, stagflation, the malaise, both parents having to work and taking care of ourselves because we were latch key kids. But we fortunately did not have to walk to school, barefoot, in the snow and up hill both ways. That was my Dad's generation, the Silent one. lol.