Sniper

That is pretty much what I did when I converted. I used a Ford style 4 terminal 12v solenoid to completely replace the original 3 terminal 6v solenoid. the extra terminal was to bypass the ballast resistor in start.

Hmm, I need to take it apart to inspect the wear surfaces anyway, thanks.

Fortunately, I have a newer pump that does not require lubing because I wouldn't have remembered it.

This is what points files were invented for. When I worked as an I&E tech at a cement plant we'd had to disassemble and clean the contacts on the motor contactors about once a quarter. Essentially, they are just large points and we did it for years with zero issues. A light touch to dress them is all that is needed.

Got a little maintenance in on the Cambridge this weekend. My son and I greased the car. 23 fittings later it's done. First time he ever greased a car. Of course I could not find my two grease guns anywhere so I ended up buying yet another one. Which means I'll be finding the missing ones soon. Taught him how to check the suspension components for slop and wear then we talked about alignments, camber, caster and toe as well as their effects on tire wear, the FSM was handy with the tire wear pictures. Then we busted out the IR gun and started discussing the cooling system.

Some dwell meters have multiple scales and/or ranges for a 4, 6 or 8 cylinder. We'll assume you have it setup correctly and are reading the right scale. Smaller gaps increase dwell time. Dwell time is how long the points are closed. So your smaller gap should show more dwell time, though I can't say if 45 is where it ought to be reading with .018" gap. When I got my 51 the gap was also too small, the dwell too much, the timing way retarded and the idle speed was at 1600 rpm. All of those interact with each other to some extent so you will have to go bath and forth d

Looking out my back window I see my roses are blooming

Bought my 51 club coupe in Sep 2019. In similar condition, but much less rust. $4k.

Pretty sure that engine has been gone thru since it left the factory, so the presence of studs holding on the head is probably not useful.

I'm a penny pincher. Snap On makes nice stuff, but the cost is more than I want to pay. My work tools are top of the line, but my tinkering tools are not that fancy.

Interesting addition. How did you do it> All the full flow setups I have seen, till now, both tap intot eh boss on the block. It appears you tapped into the oil pump for the supply and into the boss on the block for the feed to the engine? Seems an easier t configure setup to me.

Ebay is a mixed bag. Sometime you find a "deal" on an item that's made up for in the shipping. Sometimes the prices asked are crazy but the shipping is "free". Sometimes both are insane. I like RockAuto over Ebay most of the time. I bought 5 of Dorman 568010 Amazon is $10.79 each, free shipping Rock auto is $4.66 each with $7.89 shipping Ebay is $10.11 each with free shipping Local parts store lists it for $17.99 for a box of 5, but not available. So not useful. All charge a sales tax so the more you pay for it the more the tax is too.

I got all my exotic travels done courtesy of the US Navy. All expenses paid cruises to foreign lands to get shot at. Endless hours watching sea snakes and jelly fish float by in the Persian Gulf as you stand watch on the 25mm cannon. Or circling burning oil tankers while we film it. Iranians playing foolish games. Escorting oil tankers through the Straits of Hormuz while at General Quarters for 17+ hours. Mind numbingly repetitive maintenance tasks keeping the ship in tip top condition. No desire to go anywhere these days I have all the fun I can stand telling whip

But you are still driving a minivan

Andy Bernbaum says to contact them as they have many but no specific listing, not cheap either. https://www.oldmoparts.com/parts-body.aspx About a third of the way down.