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Sniper

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Sniper last won the day on August 4

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About Sniper

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    Guru, have been a long time contributor

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  • Website URL
    www.yourolddad.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    west Texas
  • My Project Cars
    1951 Plymouth Cambridge

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    nowhere
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  1. When ever you want to know a chemical's potential to react to something look up the SDS. I did this for the original Simple Green for you and it is listed as non-reactive. Which means it should have no effect on brass or aluminum. https://simplegreen.com/data-sheets/ Though there is some that comment on it's effect f you soak it for a long time, like weeks and months. If that worries you Simple Green makes an Aircraft and Precision Cleaner that is supposed to be safe on aluminum regardless. https://simplegreen.com/faqs/# Click on aluminum in the FAQ.
  2. He's asking $1500 but it supposedly recently rebuilt. What I'll pay though, remains to be seen. He has just sent me the pic of the engine number, it is not out of a 51Plymouth and it is not a 218. It's a D42, a 230 I may have scored here as I have been looking for a 230 and even core 230's are not cheap, ~$500 is what I have been seeing on the low end. Mind you this is a complete drive train take out, see pic.
  3. I am talking with a guy in Tucson that has what he says is the complete drive train pulled from a 51 Plymouth for sale. Someone pulled it to hot rod the 51 with a V8. It is complete, from front engine mount plate to oil bath air cleaner to emergency brake on the tailshaft. I am awaiting a shot of the engine number before I get serious though and I have a couple car friends in Tucson that can take a look see for me. I plan to take the company truck all the way to Tucson to get it if the deal works out. I get to use it for personal use, I get charged a flat fee of $160/mo, and they pay for everything else, including the gas. I rarely use it for personal use since it is a monster that I hate parking in town. 2019 Silverado 2500 4x4 long bed, yeah it couldn't get bigger. My other option is the Cambridge, which I much prefer around town but it's not going to carry that back from Tucson.
  4. I didn't see Keith posts any asking price and I am in favor of his getting the DeSoto as he'd be a good caretaker, imo. But I am reminded of what my Dad used to say "money's no object, he's paying". I figure Keith knows his finances better than us, but my Dad's saying popped to mind. My only caution was to have him consider what any missing and unique to the Airflow parts might end up costing him as part of the ownership of it.
  5. It's probably a cup plug pressed into the dipstick hole, if so then you ought to be able to push it out from the bottom.
  6. Never had an issue doing it with a hammer, no lift, no new stuff. No need for a 4lb hammer either
  7. Rap with a hammer works for me. Tierod end puller works good too. hammer video Tie rod puller
  8. I would not use paypal to receive payment regardless. I do use it to make payment to the sellers taht will only take paypal and I pay paypal with my USAA credit card. So if paypal gets stupid USAA will be there for me.
  9. The shafts unbolt from the frame. So unless you had a need to disassemble the control arms that is what I would do.
  10. Not so much about more car storage, but rather rolling around on cold concrete when you get older.
  11. Keith has a couple videos on You tube, I don't think he has the vertical space. But his new shop ought to keep that in mind when he builds it.
  12. As said, look closely at the unique tot eh Airflow items. those are what will make or break you. The mechanicals, generally, are more common. Having never owned one, or ridden in one, my personal opinion is virtually worthless in regards to your situation but I always did like the look
  13. You are exactly right. So, who's going to wake everybody else up after we put them to sleep? Lol. I love these kinds of technical discussions.
  14. Well, to be seriously anal, impedance applies to AC circuits not DC. One could make the argument that since the commutator in effect chops the DC and turns it into a pseudo AC waveform it still applies. I don't get that far into these things so much anymore and I won't argue that you are wrong about it either. But as I said, theory is nice, till it hits reality and in my world reality trumps theory. So if my circuit does what I wanted it to do that is all that matters for me. I do need to redesign it as it does move slower than I want. It's fine for a low speed (misty rain) setting, if I had more than one speed to choose from. Might do a two speed redesign, but I would need a new wiper switch. Heck, If I am going to do that I may as well go for a three speed or even a variable speed. See what you did there?
  15. Did a bit of research on some screw in heater control valves. If you follow the link and put the numbers in the search function it's give useful data on them. Here's what I found, so far. The (?) means I am not sure that is the NPT size, the data is poorly parsed in that regard. I believe it's correct bu I don;t have any of them to confirm. Screw in heater valves https://www.4s.com/en 74648 - 90 degree, outlet probably not in a good place. 5/8" hose. push off, pull on, 3/8 NPT (?) 74765 - inline, 1/2" hose, push on, pull off 1/2" NPT (?) 74683 - inline, 5/8" hose. , push off, pull on 3/8 NPT
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