ggdad1951

Just know the 51-53 had no welding behind the bezel as the previous year did. Would not hurt to put it on, but isn't "correct"

yep, JB has it nailed, any small movement will help get these boys turned. Otherwise we'd all end up like Popeye! Parking at Back to the 50's here in MN is always interesting, because unless you get there EARLY (and wait in line for hours) you end up parallel parking....always good humor for those already seats and relaxing as you fight to tuck a 1 ton into a small spot!

DODGE = Dem Old Dudes Go Everywhere

coulda left one shiny so you could have a "where's waldo" thing goin!

Generally I never reuse a seal. Just too easy for it to ruin a good rebuild.

pretty much what everyone else said. Semi gloss or flat black as you feel the project needs it. I used POR15 and it's held up SO well. Stuff is like armor coating! Follow the directions and you'll be happy, just know it cures out with moisture, so humid days would not be your friend. On FEF I used a "metallic" product from POR to give the springs a different look. Kinda going to what Merle said. I'd guess most of the rolling frame was painted as an assembly and the springs very well may have been shot black.

junk yards, epay, the classifieds section, etc. I do not know of any METAL repops.

I use small blocks of wood to hold the escutcheon back as to not damage or scratch the finish on any parts.

FEF sits for a while during summer (coupla weeks generally) and starts right up with a little choke and 2 cycles on the starter. After winter maybe 3 cycles. To me, that's just how these old boys work.

granted, its a tractor, but my 51 Farmall has no oil filter.

is there enough room for a internal C clip to get placed? Machine a slot and make a spacer and retain it with a clip?

I was just coverin the bases, considering how many things can get reported. and as predicted someone came up with the info!

Welcome to the site! Our site owner requests parts requests be placed in the "classifieds" section of the site if you are looking for parts: https://p15-d24.com/classifieds/ Otherwise someone will chime in I'm sure for spec information. thanks!

Actually how a filter is designed can make a difference on how it performs. As stated here someplace, pleated filters generally are deigned to filter out to in. Depth filters (kinda what the sock filter is) GENERALLY also work out to in. BUT CAN be run the opposite direction. It all comes down to the physics of the situation. Basically as you pressurize the outside of the filter it will compress to the core, and at some point it will plug. The core is generally designed with some sort of material (plastic/metal) keep it from collapsing into a ball of goo. Pressurizing IN to OUT will force the filter as it loads towards the housing container and eventually it will expand to fill all available space as it plugs up and "grows". This can make it nearly impossible to remove. How filters are made (in this case depth filters) it is generally way more easier to create a graduated filter by having looser material on the outside and as you work towards the core, denser material to catch finer particles. This allows the filter to work longer and more effectively. Conversely, if you pressurize the crore you have way less control over how the filter will react as it loads as it will EXPAND, OPENING up channels for debris to pass THRU the filter completely (filter bypass). This information is directly gained from years as a test engineer/filter designer for a filtration company making filters for pharmaceuticals, potable water, semiconductor industry and the like in the mid 90's. I won't speak for the logic used in the 50's when these parts were designed, but that is how modern filters are designed.

nope, but I use non oxy gas gas should not "eat" brass....considering a few fittings in the fuel system are yellow metal, there would be more problems