Jump to content

ggdad1951

Moderators
  • Content Count

    7,002
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    60

ggdad1951 last won the day on April 21

ggdad1951 had the most liked content!

About ggdad1951

  • Rank
    Zen Master, I breathe vintage mopar!

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.markfritschedesigns.com
  • Biography
    restored great grand dad's 1951 1 ton (FEF) now onto TODD!
  • Occupation
    Engineering Manager/Mechanical Engineer

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Oak Grove, MN
  • Interests
    woodworking, playing hockey, skydiving, landscaping, college hockey (GOPHERS), Vikings, Dodge trucks!
  • My Project Cars
    1951 B3D "FEF", Street rod truck "TODD", 1951 COE "PUMA", 1953 1.5 ton tip bed "ART"

Converted

  • Location
    Eagan MN
  • Interests
    wood working, landscaping, skydiving

Recent Profile Visitors

8,009 profile views
  1. No parts trading or selling on the open forum.
  2. The post that prompted the note was deleted. It was a direct ask for a part to sell or trade. Thus against da rulz.
  3. No parts requests on the open forum. Dems Da Rulz!
  4. Yah sounds like a valve tick...FEF has one but its minor so I live with it.
  5. I first heard these called "sex bolts"
  6. You have 3 (lucky). As stated get #1 running and see where you wanna go. I'm guessing at a minimum you will end up with a powertrain swap out....likely frame as well. These bad boys weren't made for speed or comfort really.
  7. Remember Parts requests and offers should be kept to PM or the classifieds section.
  8. I removed the rivet and got a bag of them to get the 2 I needed.....
  9. On my modern when I replace seals on the spindles/hubs I use a block of wood and a dead blow to seat new seals. Been doing that and it's been working for 18+ years.
  10. thanks Several issues will have to be dealt with. I had doors on when welding up the the rear half of the cab to the front to keep the body line straight, so that is good. The REAL issue is that standard cabs fall back at the rear of the door, extending the cab I had to widen it in the rear 6" to keep the roof lines happy. This means I will have to flay out the bottom lower corner of the front doors (2"or so) to get them to line up nice. Of course I will have to completely build the rear suicide doors from basically scratch for the skins. And of course the constant battle in my head for the top intersection of the front and rear doors: square it off or keep the curves.
  11. any beads or stiffeners planned on the floor?
  12. Please keep requests for parts, manuals, etc. from members to the classifieds section or PM
  13. Firewall, dash and fuel hole delete completed.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use