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ggdad1951 last won the day on December 17 2020

ggdad1951 had the most liked content!

About ggdad1951

  • Rank
    Zen Master, I breathe vintage mopar!

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  • Biography
    restored great grand dad's 1951 1 ton (FEF) now onto TODD!
  • Occupation
    Engineering Manager/Mechanical Engineer

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Oak Grove, MN
  • Interests
    woodworking, playing hockey, skydiving, landscaping, college hockey (GOPHERS), Vikings, Dodge trucks!
  • My Project Cars
    1951 B3D "FEF", Street rod truck "TODD", 1951 COE "PUMA", 1953 1.5 ton tip bed "ART"


  • Location
    Eagan MN
  • Interests
    wood working, landscaping, skydiving

Recent Profile Visitors

8,691 profile views
  1. I like this idea, put something sacrificial in betwixt the puller and shaft.
  2. we will try and make it...travel restrictions and airports and all....maybe we'll drive out....can't miss a Q!
  3. The stamped numbers look suspiciously large as far as I can tell from the picture compared to other tags in the wild I've collected. Might be a resto repop that someone did and mucked up the numbers?
  4. I was going to do that conversion, even have all the parts...then ran across some NOS ones....much easier! LOL
  5. Coulda used the tractor to pull it up instead of the come along...been there done that (both ways)...that's a LOT of ratcheting! Looks good, can't wait to see what you do with it!
  6. Actually depends on the TYPE of lift and the footprint it has on it's posts. For example: A 2 post lift will require more concrete to deal with the stresses since it will tend to want to wander if you don't have the vehicle sitting perfectly in regards to CG (off CG lifting is a WHOLE other ball of scary crap). In my shop the PO put extra thick (over 4") concrete in the mounting area (I'm told), so far no issues. <nervous laughing> A 4 post lift with ~12" square bottom plates can basically go anywhere on a standard concrete slab with no issues.
  7. Confirmed just now that the drivers side acts jut like the passenger side. I downgraded video quality and length results seen below. 20210106_101602.mp4 20210106_101524.mp4
  8. Lift is better and safer for you . Easier to grab parts and tools as needed without climbing in and out. Not to mention the potential for death from fumes in a pit. 12' min, but 14' ceilings are better. As Ed said, around here pits are not legal for new construction. Oil change places basically are a huge basement with holes between floors.
  9. the draft seals suck to put on....boiling hot water and lube and still tore 2 out of 4 (and very tender fingers).
  10. I used a 2 pound sledge and a brass driver rod to pound mine out. Supporting the bottom so it didn't break anything.
  11. ok, I looked but I don't have a passenger latch to show pics of so I did a quick video of the operation.....and 12 seconds is too big to upload...sigh....I'll try for a shorter one tomorrow. Long and short of it is this: 1. lift interior handle to lock the door 2. push the latch keeper in on the door 3. this unlocks the door (handle drops to the unlocked position) Ergo: I can't lock my keys in the truck. I was mistaken on the function on the how of not locking keys in at least on the passenger side (not allowing the door to close vs. a
  12. Please refrain from asking for parts on the open forum. Place a part wanted in the classifieds section. Thanks.
  13. there SHOULD be a tab of sorts that when you lift the handle to lock it, keeps the latch from recessing. Might be it's worn away? I'll go check my inventory to see if I can take pictures later today.
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