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  1. 2 points
    Sniper

    Mid Michigan flood

    I spent years living on the water, but it was in a US Navy destroyer, lol.
  2. 2 points
    as an added and in case you get an inexperienced counter attendant...(notice I did not say parts agent).....Napa stock this in their inventory under part number 65-201
  3. 2 points
    GL1 is readily available at NAPA..if not in stock is in their inventory and available on an overnight....maybe same day if you get there early....it is gallon container but relax, that gallon is better priced than many quarts of other similar lubes....I bought a gallon not long back for under 17.00
  4. 2 points
    BBQ 2020 is in the past, the future is now........I'M READY FOR BBQ #14 2021 BROTHER!!! Lets hope we get through the year with our health intact, and our jobs sound! Here's to friends!!!! Tim aka 48Dodger
  5. 2 points
    Tooljunkie

    Lets see pic of your trucks

    So my up and coming truck.made the deal yesterday.
  6. 2 points
    Worden18

    Me and the B-1-D

    10-4-19: Tomorrow I will move the truck one space closer to the Meadowbrook. I might slide it over on wheel dollies as there is no garage door there. 4 car garage, 3 doors 😁. I'll need to park my work car where the truck is now. Getting close to window scraping weather here. BTW fellas, there was nothing under the seat!
  7. 2 points
    Don Coatney

    Door Adjustment

    Joe; Billy Austin just sent me this short film clip on door adjustment. It's a great example of the body wedge fulcrum method. The language the mechanics use is a bit raunchy but there technique is effective. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3p58wHX4e0g
  8. 1 point
    kridgleyud

    1940 Dodge D14 Build Thread

    Hello everyone. I wanted to start a one-place thread to update the group on this build. I have a couple little threads out there, but this one will tell the story (comedy or tragedy, we'll see) on the breathing new life into my 1940 Dodge D14. To tell the story, we have to rewind to 2008 ... that is when I sold my 1973 Stingray. The wife and I then got a boat ... and you know what they say about those. Fast forward through 7 years or so of nagging her until she finally caved and agreed to get another car ... her only requirement, it needed to have 4 doors ... done. I knew I wanted to get a prewar car and I started this adventure in 2015 looking to get a 1937 Desoto. The deal fell through the day I was going to pick it up - the seller decided not to sell it/ or sold it to someone else, I'll never know now. A few weeks went by and I found this 1940 gem for sale in Pennsylvania ... called the guy and went right out to take a look. Here are the photos when we looked at it/brought it home back in 2015. Cutting it close on the prewar era and some say it;s not ... but it was made by the US in the US and we were still technically not IN the war until 41 ... that's my story!
  9. 1 point
    DJ194950

    MOPAR 604 Radio Removal

    Pull the front control Knobs off, I believe you will find a nut under each side that has to be removed to free the radio from the front speaker/radio bezel. All fun? DJ
  10. 1 point
    Dodgeb4ya

    Shop lift

    Our sales taxes are going to end up as much as the item pretty soon because of the current situation going on.
  11. 1 point
    westaus29

    1938 Aussie 7 Passenger Plymouth

    I have visited this site a few times in the past but recently started again and have been impressed with the activity, the assistance offered and the relevance to my interests. I currently have a 1929 Plymouth tourer with body by Holden Australia restored on club licence since 1999, a 1955 Plymouth Belvedere Suburban RHD built in Detroit with 259 V8 and 2 speed auto also on club licence, and a 1938 7 passenger Plymouth with Aussie Richards body, in a million pieces. This my first attempt at a post with pics so hope it works. I purchased the '38 running and licensed in Feb 1981 with the plan of having a car I could use for club events while I slowly rebuilt my 1929 Plymouth from a wreck. It was painted black, the engine barely ran and the leather upholstery was falling apart, but we drove it onto the trailer under its own steam. I cant find any pictures of it as bought but I must have been dazzled by the fact it was a 7 passenger and had all its chrome and fittings. There was no water in the radiator and It turned out the engine had a hole in the head above No 1 cylinder, every pot had broken rings, and water had corroded the bearings, crank and camshaft. The bottom of each centre door post was rusted out, and there was rust in the boot (trunk) area. By July 1982 I had it on the road with new paint (Ford Neptune Blue), new tyres and a temporary engine out of a 1936 Dodge utility (pickup) that we found abandoned up in the hills, and sheets tacked over rebuilt seat frames. My daughter in the pic below is now 41! In the next couple of years I fixed oil leaks, replaced spring bushings, brakes and wheel bearings and changed the diff from original 7 passenger 4.3 to standard 4.1 ratio as we tend to travel longish distances. By 1984 I was ready to replace the interior with upholstery in original blue leather. When I stripped the hood lining I discovered I had serious rust issues under the lead used in large quantities on the roof, which was fabricated from a standard roof cut in half with a central insert about 18 inches wide. The repairs were completed by Nov 1985 and the car was back on the road, however the upholstery guy was no longer available. In 1988 we had a surprise addition to the family, a baby girl after 17 year drought! The upholstery money went on adding a bedroom. In the meantime the car was used as a daily driver by my wife on the school run - rule was "no running in the car"! By 1995 the brake lines had rusted thru, the radiator had collapsed for the second time, the exhaust was shot, valves keep sticking and to cap it off I backed it into our Falcon wagon and badly dented the boot. I deregistered it in disgust as by that time I was making progress on the 29. Fast forward to 2012 and we have changed address, I now have 1/2 acre and a 5 bay shed. However to fit the 7 passenger in it I had to remove the front clip. The car is now a mobile storage unit for surfboards, wetsuits and a couple of broken chairs. But it still runs! I plan to post an outline of the rebuild process which started in 2012, but here is a recent pic of the body on a home made rotisserie - stripping back roof to bare metal after a VERY bad sand blast and prime job. Jim
  12. 1 point
    Ulu

    ebay bidding

    That's quite the nice hub puller. I need to dig mine out. My Scout has a typical frozen parking brake. Hasn't been released in 30 years. Maybe more. I'll probably have to heat the hub, unless I get lucky, and the guy that installed Dad's 4:88 gears put a good coat of anti-seize on, back in 1962. That's only 58 years. I don't think we ever touched the rear brakes. Anyhow I used eBay to buy that OT kit car I posted, and I got lucky and came in $1000 less than my max bid. But I would have been happy either way, because nobody wanted it more than I did and I won.
  13. 1 point
    Conn47D24

    D-24 Body and Paint

    I've tried to match Panama Sand off an old color chart. Sort of beige.
  14. 1 point
    keithb7

    Recommended transmission fluid

    Putting my ‘38 tranny back together today. I’ll try the Redline MTL.
  15. 1 point
    I have been searching for threads that I have read before about which axle to use. But, today I couldn't fine the information I wanted. Can we generate a list of axles that make a good swap. Don, I know about the list of old mopar cars, I'm looking for the years of Dakota, ranger, explorer and others that may be less than 30-years-old.
  16. 1 point
    desoto1939

    More Miller Factory Tools

    I just acquired several more Miller Factory Tools and will try to post the pictures of the tools. C-604 for all Dodge,Des, Chry and Ply hydraulically operated Trans. Trans reverse idler gear shift puller C-609 for all fluid drive equiped cars. This is the clutch driven plate aligning Arbor C-625 this is a partila set of tools runner hub bearing and bushing puller C-714 For all Dod, Des, Chry and Ply hydraulicially operated trans. Transmission poston return spring compressor. C-716 for 1946-53 Dod,Des and Chry Hydraulically operated trans. Trans countershaft needle bearing assembly arbor C-745 for all Ply,Dod, Des and Chry Sixes.This is the rear axle shft oil seal installing Sleeve. Not to be used on the Eight and 7 passenger cars DD-286 or c-3181 for all models. Clutch shaft pilot bushing installing and burning tool. Now I have both tools the DD and the C Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com.
  17. 1 point
    keithb7

    New Car Day! 1938 P6 Plymouth Deluxe

    I did some more reading and looked at my tranny closer again. I think I can answer my own question here about clutch gear wear. See the little brass squares in the pic above? These contact the cone shaped ramp on the adjacent gear. As the sliding synchro ring slides toward the neighbouring gear, the brass area rides up the ramp. As it engages, it speeds up or slows down, to match the rotating speed of the adjacent gear that it is engaging. My brass squares are worn pretty good. Then the speed does not match as well as it should. Then the gears grab and grind a little when they engage. This synchro is only used in gears 2 and 3. I found a new, original Chrysler, still in the box clutch gear assembly on Ebay today for $80. Seemed like deal to me. My tranny getting a new synchromesh. The ramp area on the adjacent gear is the shiny polished ring seen in the pick below. The green arrow pointing at it. I think I am on the right track here. Your comments are welcome. Thanks.
  18. 1 point
    Dozerman51

    1939-40 Chrysler Aluminum Head

    Here two photos of an Aluminum Head I picked up a few years ago. Soon, I hope to install it on the IND-7(236.6) which is installed in my WC 1/2 ton Military 4x4. it will save me weight over the 41' Spifire head I have on it now, and it has been shaved down for some higher compression. I have bought a Chrysler steel head gasket as they say to use steel instead of cooper.
  19. 1 point
    kencombs

    Unrestored vs restored controversy

    quote from someone in my past, don't even remember who when I asked what I should do about something: Whatever makes you happy just tickles me plumb to death. His message: Do what makes you happy. The results don't impact me at all.
  20. 1 point
    John H.

    Front brake drum questions.

    I guess that's what happens when you're working on an old vehicle. Every owner has made their mark somewhere along the line. I'm just going to take my time, photograph everything, and take notes. Again, I appreciate the help and input, and I wish you all well with all of the crap that's going on. John.
  21. 1 point
    Dave72dt

    Painting methods

    I use both. Large panels or multiple large panels get the gun. I've used the cans on small pieces, like brackets, individual parts prior to install. One of the problems with the cans on large panels is the nozzle on the cans themselves. Most spray in a round pattern instead of the flat pattern from a gun. I've done larger pieces with a can too as long as I can get the paint on the entire piece wet. Harbor Freight guns will spray rustoleum just fine when properly reduced and don't cost that much. Flash time with that setup is slow enough you can do multiple panels even while waiting for a smaller compressor to build pressure back up. Really easy to get runs with a can also so you much exercise patience when using them.
  22. 1 point
    I have a 39 Desoto that has been AACA judged HPOF Historical Preservation of Original features. And yes the car has been repainted because the original paint was starting to flack off and then getting rust on the body. So to keep the car running and usable did a repaint down to bare metal. Fixed the old cloth cover wiring to modern wiring because of possible fire and other electrical issues. Headliner was real bad and replaced mohair seat covering and door panels are original but show their wear for being 80 + years but basically a good presentable car for the time period. I state the car as semi original but I can drive it and have fun with it and not worry about someone touching the car. Even the total 100point cars are not fully restores. I even brought this to the AACA attention because most glass was replaced and the original glass had a date code and manufacturers seal in the glass most cars that are senior winners from the 50's and back do not have the original glass if it was replaced. So with that being stated every senior and or grand national car will have something not original so there can never be a 100 point car. At one point the AACA took several of their most experienced senior judges and asked them to judge a modern car that was taken directly from a dealership and had not been owned by anyone. These judged then started to deduct points point based on what they had been schooled on via the AACA judging rule book. After the car was finally judged and the scores were given in they were all informed that no matter what they think they found wrong with the car based on their experience there could not be any points deductions. They all asked why. The real answer is that this is a factory delivered car and how it is shown it is perfect and a 100 point car. The senior judges were given a lesson as a joke to them and the AACA. A lot of the cars that are AACA senior winners are over restored and on some of the older cars the fit and finish was not down to having evenly space seams. The idea was to get the car off the assembly line and were not basically an item to be judged.. It was basic transportation except maybe for the real high cost cars. So restored partially restored or semi original or total original is the owners choice to do what ever they want. It all depends on what they want to do and if they have the funds to do anything to the car. But basically as I see it the idea is to keep the car running and enjoy the hobby. Rich HArtung desoto1939@aol.com
  23. 1 point
    keithb7

    A Modern Tune Up?

    Today I was out for a walk in the warm weather. I happened to walk past a local independent garage. Above each bay there was a message; “Tire changes”....Ok. “Oil Changes”....Ok. “Tune Ups”....Huh? So I continued to walk, and now my idle mind had something to think about. I thought about a tune up for our old Mopars. Which might include: Oil bath filter. Clean filter wire mesh in kerosene. Change oil in filter housing. File and set points. Change capacitor. Set ignition timing. Check and set idle RPM. Pull, clean, gap plugs. Check, inspect, replace if needed distributor cap and rotor. Maybe check engine vacuum at intake manifold. Check choke operation, set as required. Tighten carb assembly and mounting hardware. Check & replace if necessary sparkplug and coil wires. Engine compression test. Grease 50 plus points. Possible additions: Minor/major brake set. Check axle bearing end play. Clean grease/repack wheel bearings. Set clutch free travel. Set master cylinder free travel. Test, clean, set voltage regulator. Valve grind. Compared to a 2019 Car that’s due for a “Tune up”. What exactly are people paying for? Plug in and check for fault codes. Reset tire pressure sensors. Toss and replace air filter. Fill window washer fluid. Lol. Us old guys who look after these vintage cars are patient, determined people, mastered in a dying skill.
  24. 1 point
    Earl Gray

    ANSWERED Gyromatic is Stuck

    Very helpful. Thank you! I disconnected the battery many times while trying to get the wiring right (cross-referenced post below) that it most likely reset it then. Good to know a solid solution. Thanks again!
  25. 1 point
    Tooljunkie

    Handbrake hardware

    I added an additional spring,figured out there was a missing return spring and jigged it up. Haven’t tested it yet,but im sure its better. will be getting a conventional e-brake eventually,as the 8.25 rear diff has it.
  26. 1 point
    RobertKB

    Unrestored vs restored controversy

    I have both restored and unrestored cars. I think a lot depends on how unrestored you want it. I have fully restored two cars that were basket cases to begin with and maintained two originals. Pictured is a 1953 four-door Plymouth Belvedere (Canadian only model as the US did not have the four-door Belvedere). It is 95% original including the paint. I did replace a badly torn headliner and replaced the factory carpet. Other than that pretty original. It has had a ring job and valve lap about 30,000 miles ago. Present mileage is 101,000 and is driven often when the weather is nice. It has its share of gravel rash, dings in the trim, and the bumpers show some wear but overall pretty decent. They are only original once.
  27. 1 point
    So sorry to hear that the BBQ could not be held this year. I haven’t made the 7140 mile trip there since 2017... but I wil do everything possible to be there with my partner Roz in 2021. As my trucks will most likely never make the trip from ‘Down Under’ to the USA, I have posted a couple of photos for my ‘virtual attendance’ this year. Stay safe my forum family. Davin aka DesotoDav in Burbank (Australia)
  28. 1 point
    one more pic and I am done...folks standing by their ride...…..that is my son standing by my yellow Tiger...all I tell him is...in your dreams bubba....! left to right, Richie H.; Billy A.; yours truly; my son Travis A., late Don C.; Jerry and then Merle. Chris B. was off hiding somewhere I guess. This was the restart of Chris and Jerry on their US tour....they had to fly home due to illness in family and I stored his car in the barn till they returned.
  29. 1 point
    Nick, here is the thread about how I stopped the leaks on my transmission: https://p15-d24.com/topic/50800-chasing-transmission-leak-48-p15/?tab=comments#comment-538887 At this point it would be very easy for you to pull the transmission and reseal it. I had rather try that first than mess with the rear seal.
  30. 1 point
    Dodgeb4ya

    Fluid Drive unit rebuild

    Here is a rebuilt 1946 - 1948 C39 Chrysler straight 8 FD coupling on ebay...rebuilt under $300.00 including shipping..is it any good ? IDK.https://www.ebay.com/i/312961645429?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=312961645429&targetid=883687709934&device=m&mktype=pla&googleloc=9051777&poi=&campaignid=9343998924&mkgroupid=94993840979&rlsatarget=pla-883687709934&abcId=1139336&merchantid=8405854&gclid=CjwKCAiAzJLzBRAZEiwAmZb0anf300DvEmPCQd5hiGZjdPzvMvaZT9-HbeycEd1XH67kD99FlbOFsRoCDocQAvD_BwE This seller looks like he parted out a 48 chrysler and glass beaded many of the parts?
  31. 1 point
    IMO glass and rubber first (siding with JB on this one). Less chance of mucking up the interior stuff dinking around with the glass. IMO easy to put the interior into the slot in the rubber than to try and get 2 things to engage at once.
  32. 1 point
    kencombs

    Time for an overhaul...

    Glad to hear feedback on the oil pressure. I've been debating the full flow mod as you did it. Sounds like the hole placement and line sizing has been proven in your use. Now, just to get up the nerve to drill/tap my block.
  33. 1 point
    Andydodge

    Time for an overhaul...

    Beebe......I too have just reread the entire thread and still get info and enjoyment out of it............its 12 months since your last post, how have things panned out re the engine rebuild and the possible turbo install?...........I trust you are going o/k and again thanks for all the effort in posting this thread......regards from Oz.........andyd
  34. 1 point
    chrysler1941

    Interior light mystery ??

    It's good advice to disconnect battery when checking wirings. For measuring, it's easier with power on, so after disconnecting battery cable, I use a small lead with 15A fuse with alligator clips on both ends . In case of shorts, only fuse burns.
  35. 1 point
  36. 1 point
    Plymouthy Adams

    stucked oil ring in T214

    I would look first at the natural breathing of the engine itself. two major areas come into play. One is the fill tube and the vented breather cap..if you have the open sided breather it must be pointed at the firewall to prevent too much air forced into the engine by the fan....second is looking at the scavenger pipe and ensure the position of this tube is correct so to create a venturi effect. This allows vapors in the engine to be removed in such a way NOT to remove small atomized particle of oil along with the vapor....
  37. 1 point
    Plymouthy Adams

    48 Desoto Project

    On ‎8‎/‎21‎/‎2017 at 1:19 PM, 52b3b Joe said: I am still continuing to find some more darn mouse homes! I think the car served as an apartment complex for the mice! you got a rat rod and didn't even know it....
  38. 1 point
    48ply1stcar

    ANSWERED SUCESSFUL REAR AXLE SWAPS.

    I think this is what your looking for.
  39. 1 point
    well....for the life of me...can't upload my pics and they are'nt even 2 mb!! I give up...you will have to trust me! Ha!
  40. 1 point
    Thank you guys! I appreciate the illustration and the tip with the longer end bolts! Here is a picture of my 49, Its my first Mopar!
  41. 1 point
    ggdad1951

    bed wood for 1/2 ton

    The species of wood possibly varied by location of the plant is my guess. Southern Yellow Pine was what I was told was original (and seemed right on inspection from FEF). I used WHITE OAK as it WILL NOT rot or do bad things in weather. The proper color is to be PAINTED BLACK, not all prettified (unless that's your direction) and left ROUGH cut. The ONLY, and I repeat ONLY, location to get the RIGHT bed strips is from Midwest Military (https://midwestmilitary.com/) where they have their own dies to make the strips. Mar-K and Horkey all use Chevy/Ford strips in their kits. As noted ^^^ you can check out my bed build thread in my sig lines. Can't wait to see what you end up with!
  42. 1 point
    B1B Keven

    Heater Control Valve Rebuild Parts.

    Folks, don't throw away your brass heater control valves!!!! Replace the two internal rubber seals. These work. https://www.paragoncorvette.com/p-348325-heater-control-valve-seal-kit.aspx
  43. 1 point
    RobertKB

    36 dodge smoking white and bad

    Head gasket? Should be a couple of adjacent cylinders with low compression. White smoke usually indicates you are burning anti-freeze.
  44. 1 point
    80 dodge diplomat on my 51 Cambridge. I didn't do it.
  45. 1 point
    I didn't have any work to do ON my truck, but since today was designated "yard work day" I decided to work WITH my truck. I used it to run to Menards for some mulch.
  46. 1 point
    I took me almost as long to find this thread as it did to find 2 x Australian 2001 $1 coins for you Tim. I'll even hand-deliver them to you in April 2014 !!
  47. 1 point
    Well, I got out of school and got a bit done on my truck today. I finished all the "rough" filler work, and threw some high build on to see where I'm at. The roof actually looks good to go, it looks like GLASS, but I found some spots on the cab I never felt or saw before, but I guess that's what the high builds for, to see all the issue spots and blocking out.
  48. 1 point
    B1B Keven

    218 Oil Filter question

    JC405 (BDN) $13.99 http://www.baxterautoparts.com/Order/OrderFormInterchange.aspx?mode=search or search 'Baldwin JC405'. http://www.adiesel.com/baldwinfilters/JC405.html I know where I'm going next.
  49. 1 point
    PatS....

    Door Adjustment

    Not sure if you have seen this or not: http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Lit/Master/025/cover.htm 35 page booklet from Mopar called "Body Fitting Facts"
  50. 1 point
    Merle Coggins

    Fuel Sending Unit

    Under the seat there should be a round plug in the floor. Pop that plug out and you will have access to the sending unit. Merle By the way... When I put my sending unit in I added a grounding terminal to assure that the sender was properly grounded. I drilled a hole through the plate and put a machine screw up from the bottom with a little Permetex sealer. I then use a second nut to attach my ground wire, which runs to one of the trans cover bolts. I dont' have to worry about counting on the ground through the mounting flange and the tank attachments.
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