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Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/06/2020 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Pipeyjoe

    Lets see pic of your trucks

    Heres my old girl!
  2. 2 points
    Sniper

    Mid Michigan flood

    I spent years living on the water, but it was in a US Navy destroyer, lol.
  3. 2 points
    as an added and in case you get an inexperienced counter attendant...(notice I did not say parts agent).....Napa stock this in their inventory under part number 65-201
  4. 2 points
    GL1 is readily available at NAPA..if not in stock is in their inventory and available on an overnight....maybe same day if you get there early....it is gallon container but relax, that gallon is better priced than many quarts of other similar lubes....I bought a gallon not long back for under 17.00
  5. 2 points
    Plymouthy Adams

    Glasspacks

    I guess I am a bit different....when I stopped by in my 54 Savoy to see Jake, at State Farm, yes no joke his name and my agent....he asked me to start the engine so he could hear it, imagine his surprise when I said it is running now....
  6. 2 points
    I would like to comment on this installation. First off it looks like you did a first class job on it. Bravo! As far as adjustments go I think what you did is just fine. In reality you may make a few adjustments early on to get the correct balance in your braking system. But once you have got it where you want it you won't actually need to touch it. I have had my truck in daily use for over 5 years now and have not had to make any further adjustments. Of course I don't race it....but it has been used more than most trucks here. Hth, Jeff
  7. 2 points
    Tooljunkie

    Lets see pic of your trucks

    So my up and coming truck.made the deal yesterday.
  8. 2 points
    Worden18

    Me and the B-1-D

    10-4-19: Tomorrow I will move the truck one space closer to the Meadowbrook. I might slide it over on wheel dollies as there is no garage door there. 4 car garage, 3 doors 😁. I'll need to park my work car where the truck is now. Getting close to window scraping weather here. BTW fellas, there was nothing under the seat!
  9. 2 points
    Don Coatney

    Door Adjustment

    Joe; Billy Austin just sent me this short film clip on door adjustment. It's a great example of the body wedge fulcrum method. The language the mechanics use is a bit raunchy but there technique is effective. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3p58wHX4e0g
  10. 1 point
    DJ194950

    MOPAR 604 Radio Removal

    Pull the front control Knobs off, I believe you will find a nut under each side that has to be removed to free the radio from the front speaker/radio bezel. All fun? DJ
  11. 1 point
    keithb7

    First flathead!

    I found this drawing of a '48 Plymouth. Is your Desoto the same? I see a hood latch cable here too.
  12. 1 point
    Dodgeb4ya

    Shop lift

    Our sales taxes are going to end up as much as the item pretty soon because of the current situation going on.
  13. 1 point
    westaus29

    1938 Aussie 7 Passenger Plymouth

    I have visited this site a few times in the past but recently started again and have been impressed with the activity, the assistance offered and the relevance to my interests. I currently have a 1929 Plymouth tourer with body by Holden Australia restored on club licence since 1999, a 1955 Plymouth Belvedere Suburban RHD built in Detroit with 259 V8 and 2 speed auto also on club licence, and a 1938 7 passenger Plymouth with Aussie Richards body, in a million pieces. This my first attempt at a post with pics so hope it works. I purchased the '38 running and licensed in Feb 1981 with the plan of having a car I could use for club events while I slowly rebuilt my 1929 Plymouth from a wreck. It was painted black, the engine barely ran and the leather upholstery was falling apart, but we drove it onto the trailer under its own steam. I cant find any pictures of it as bought but I must have been dazzled by the fact it was a 7 passenger and had all its chrome and fittings. There was no water in the radiator and It turned out the engine had a hole in the head above No 1 cylinder, every pot had broken rings, and water had corroded the bearings, crank and camshaft. The bottom of each centre door post was rusted out, and there was rust in the boot (trunk) area. By July 1982 I had it on the road with new paint (Ford Neptune Blue), new tyres and a temporary engine out of a 1936 Dodge utility (pickup) that we found abandoned up in the hills, and sheets tacked over rebuilt seat frames. My daughter in the pic below is now 41! In the next couple of years I fixed oil leaks, replaced spring bushings, brakes and wheel bearings and changed the diff from original 7 passenger 4.3 to standard 4.1 ratio as we tend to travel longish distances. By 1984 I was ready to replace the interior with upholstery in original blue leather. When I stripped the hood lining I discovered I had serious rust issues under the lead used in large quantities on the roof, which was fabricated from a standard roof cut in half with a central insert about 18 inches wide. The repairs were completed by Nov 1985 and the car was back on the road, however the upholstery guy was no longer available. In 1988 we had a surprise addition to the family, a baby girl after 17 year drought! The upholstery money went on adding a bedroom. In the meantime the car was used as a daily driver by my wife on the school run - rule was "no running in the car"! By 1995 the brake lines had rusted thru, the radiator had collapsed for the second time, the exhaust was shot, valves keep sticking and to cap it off I backed it into our Falcon wagon and badly dented the boot. I deregistered it in disgust as by that time I was making progress on the 29. Fast forward to 2012 and we have changed address, I now have 1/2 acre and a 5 bay shed. However to fit the 7 passenger in it I had to remove the front clip. The car is now a mobile storage unit for surfboards, wetsuits and a couple of broken chairs. But it still runs! I plan to post an outline of the rebuild process which started in 2012, but here is a recent pic of the body on a home made rotisserie - stripping back roof to bare metal after a VERY bad sand blast and prime job. Jim
  14. 1 point
    keithb7

    Recommended transmission fluid

    Putting my ‘38 tranny back together today. I’ll try the Redline MTL.
  15. 1 point
    heck, working at home now for 9 weeks (!) I barely know what day it is! Today was blursday as far as I know! I have to set reminders on my phone so I don't forget trap league night!
  16. 1 point
    The plugs were all wet/damp when I checked them a couple of days ago. It had run fine right before I changed the oil and filter last October and then it didn't seem to want to fire at all. It is probably flooded right now. I'll have to check this out. Thanks
  17. 1 point
    It can sit there for a long time on a cold engine....it will be a puddle if down there....plugs can be will be wet or dry ...I have been thru this,,,worth checking out. I understand maybe a weak spark but it did run fine till it sat and incorrect after sitting start procedure can get you into this situation. If it is flooded... leave the throttle open for few hours or a day...put throttle back to closed .... a pump or too and try cranking it... hopefully it will start up.
  18. 1 point
    Did the engine run before you pulled the distributor? Did you install a new distributor cap? When your all set at TDC for #1 cylinder (top of compression stroke), where is the distributor rotor "pointing"? If all is set up correctly the rotor should be pointing to approximately the 7 o'clock position with respect to the distributor body. Then the #1 plug wire should come off the cap tower above the rotor and up to the #1 plug. Then clockwise rotation to other plugs in 153624 order as you stated. If however the oil pump was removed and then not properly indexed when reinstalled the rotor position could be somewhere else other than the 7 o'clock position. This is no real big deal as long as #1 plug wire comes off the tower above the rotor.
  19. 1 point
    I had one sit a long time like that and rusted the top 1/2 of the ring gear. It made a wow wow wow noise . It was not real loud but enough that I had to replace it.
  20. 1 point
    Dozerman51

    1939-40 Chrysler Aluminum Head

    Here two photos of an Aluminum Head I picked up a few years ago. Soon, I hope to install it on the IND-7(236.6) which is installed in my WC 1/2 ton Military 4x4. it will save me weight over the 41' Spifire head I have on it now, and it has been shaved down for some higher compression. I have bought a Chrysler steel head gasket as they say to use steel instead of cooper.
  21. 1 point
    kencombs

    Unrestored vs restored controversy

    quote from someone in my past, don't even remember who when I asked what I should do about something: Whatever makes you happy just tickles me plumb to death. His message: Do what makes you happy. The results don't impact me at all.
  22. 1 point
    MackTheFinger

    Show your tools.

    This only sorta qualifies as a mechanic's tool. Front side is a regular measuring stick. Anybody recognize the back side of this rule? I used one of these every day at work for over 35 years. Almost felt like I needed one in my hip pocket when I wasn't at work..
  23. 1 point
    tom'sB2B

    Flathead 6 Rebuild Information

    I encourage you to read this thread.
  24. 1 point
    thrashfit

    Bed to frame fitting

    Cheers 59bisquik. I have made my own rubber mounts but I think doubling up to 1/2" thick will do the business. Be good to get the truck out of the garage and let it see daylight when this virus is over. Thanks for all your help lads...Dave. Norwich UK. ........Its coming along slowly.....
  25. 1 point
    Earl Gray

    ANSWERED Gyromatic is Stuck

    Very helpful. Thank you! I disconnected the battery many times while trying to get the wiring right (cross-referenced post below) that it most likely reset it then. Good to know a solid solution. Thanks again!
  26. 1 point
    Dartgame

    Thermostat dilemma

    I used a stat from a 60's 70's mopar v8. Worked fine in my car. Do check the opening temp. by heating in water on the stove and monitoring temp using a themometer - stir the pot constantly while doing this. Stats are notorious for not opening at the correct temp.
  27. 1 point
    pflaming

    Time for an overhaul...

    I too, just read this thread. I started this hobby some 10+/- years ago and realize that I’m now in the advanced novice stage. Yet it is an enjoyable experience. I only knew how to change oil and plugs when I started. To those who have helped teach me, thanks.
  28. 1 point
  29. 1 point
    Plymouthy Adams

    stucked oil ring in T214

    I would look first at the natural breathing of the engine itself. two major areas come into play. One is the fill tube and the vented breather cap..if you have the open sided breather it must be pointed at the firewall to prevent too much air forced into the engine by the fan....second is looking at the scavenger pipe and ensure the position of this tube is correct so to create a venturi effect. This allows vapors in the engine to be removed in such a way NOT to remove small atomized particle of oil along with the vapor....
  30. 1 point
    Worden18

    Me and the B-1-D

    My son wanted to put the license plate on, so I let him do that.
  31. 1 point
    dndrodshop

    engine swap

    Sedan Delivery project - 5.2 EFI Mopar motor, 5 speed manual, air ride suspension , Dakota front clip, 4-bar rear suspension
  32. 1 point
  33. 1 point
    Niel Hoback

    Time for an overhaul...

    There's a hole in that theory.
  34. 1 point
    chopt50wgn

    ANSWERED SUCESSFUL REAR AXLE SWAPS.

    This is a pic from the rear of my 50 Ply wagon. We put an Heidts independent rear in. My buddy Tim who is a fabricator by trade and has 30 years experience building hot rods and race cars did the install. Car rides like a new Caddy.
  35. 1 point
    Plymouthy Adams

    48 Desoto Project

    On ‎8‎/‎21‎/‎2017 at 1:19 PM, 52b3b Joe said: I am still continuing to find some more darn mouse homes! I think the car served as an apartment complex for the mice! you got a rat rod and didn't even know it....
  36. 1 point
    well....for the life of me...can't upload my pics and they are'nt even 2 mb!! I give up...you will have to trust me! Ha!
  37. 1 point
    Thank you guys! I appreciate the illustration and the tip with the longer end bolts! Here is a picture of my 49, Its my first Mopar!
  38. 1 point
    ggdad1951

    bed wood for 1/2 ton

    The species of wood possibly varied by location of the plant is my guess. Southern Yellow Pine was what I was told was original (and seemed right on inspection from FEF). I used WHITE OAK as it WILL NOT rot or do bad things in weather. The proper color is to be PAINTED BLACK, not all prettified (unless that's your direction) and left ROUGH cut. The ONLY, and I repeat ONLY, location to get the RIGHT bed strips is from Midwest Military (https://midwestmilitary.com/) where they have their own dies to make the strips. Mar-K and Horkey all use Chevy/Ford strips in their kits. As noted ^^^ you can check out my bed build thread in my sig lines. Can't wait to see what you end up with!
  39. 1 point
    dpollo

    bed wood for 1/2 ton

    I have a 52 and I made new box planks from local west coast fine grained fir. The original wood was some sort of eastern hardwood which in fact seemed pretty soft. I have not had the truck out in the wet so I do not know yet if the fir will cup but I have sealed it pretty thoroughly. The thickness is 7/8 and the grooves for the box strips which I bought from Mar K can all be cut on a tablesaw. What surprised me is that the outer planks are tapered as the box is actually one inch wider at the tailgate than at the front panel. I do not know if all trucks are that way but mine certainly is which means I have to re make the outer planks. The truck is not at my home now so I cannot give you dimensions other than the thickness. I can recommend MarK for their box strips and bolt kit. They probably sell wood too . Have a look at their on line catalog.
  40. 1 point
    RobertKB

    36 dodge smoking white and bad

    Head gasket? Should be a couple of adjacent cylinders with low compression. White smoke usually indicates you are burning anti-freeze.
  41. 1 point
    I took me almost as long to find this thread as it did to find 2 x Australian 2001 $1 coins for you Tim. I'll even hand-deliver them to you in April 2014 !!
  42. 1 point
    JBNeal

    Basic Engine Info

    Thoughts on Mopar Flatheads 1 Thoughts on Mopar Flatheads 2 Thoughts on Mopar Flatheads 3 Links to Building Threads Experience Builders Flathead Gotchas Spark Plugs Engine Oil Engine Oil Filter Engine Oil Filter Installation
  43. 1 point
    50desotocoupe

    Disc Brakes-1950 Desoto

    Oh trust me, I shouldn't have decided to go with different wheels.....slippery slope. I had to press studs into the drums because the new wheels wouldn't work with lug bolts....well, apparently I didn't press them in correctly which screwed up the drums..... it is like a bathroom remodel that starts with a new faucet...lol Here is a before and after picture....just need to put the rear bumper back on after it was straightened.
  44. 1 point
    I was inspired by the upcoming holiday and knowing that its going to rain this weekend, I decided to get off early and finish putting my dash back together. B1Bkeven fixed up my speedo and gauges for me and they look great. Thanks again Keven. I also decided to finally wire up my 802 I bought from Reg a year or so ago. Now I'm ready for baseball season on the radio. Go Giants! I wish you and yours a very merry WOYCTD!
  45. 1 point
    B1B Keven

    218 Oil Filter question

    JC405 (BDN) $13.99 http://www.baxterautoparts.com/Order/OrderFormInterchange.aspx?mode=search or search 'Baldwin JC405'. http://www.adiesel.com/baldwinfilters/JC405.html I know where I'm going next.
  46. 1 point
    greg g

    1942 Dodge blackout

    As long as they had chrome pieces in inventory they used them tillthey were gone.
  47. 1 point
    cwcars88

    Door Adjustment

    Is it possible that there is nothing wrong with the door, but the front fender is what needs to be adjusted?
  48. 1 point
    Plymouthy Adams

    Show your tools.

    there is more to a man that the tool he uses..just where is this one heading
  49. 1 point
    Merle Coggins

    Fuel Sending Unit

    Under the seat there should be a round plug in the floor. Pop that plug out and you will have access to the sending unit. Merle By the way... When I put my sending unit in I added a grounding terminal to assure that the sender was properly grounded. I drilled a hole through the plate and put a machine screw up from the bottom with a little Permetex sealer. I then use a second nut to attach my ground wire, which runs to one of the trans cover bolts. I dont' have to worry about counting on the ground through the mounting flange and the tank attachments.
  50. 1 point
    40phil41

    Dash removal progress

    Good work John. As a suggestion, one thing that I am glad I did was to paint the back side of the dash a light colour. In my case I used a flat high fill primer on both sides that was a very light yellow. Now when I do work behind the dash with a trouble light I find it easier to see the various wires etc. against the light background. As I get older my eyes get weaker so every little thing helps. Phil
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