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About squirebill

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    newtown square,pa
  • Interests
    The B1B, hobby in light blacksmithing, Pa hunting,
  • My Project Cars
    1948/49 Dodge B1B; 1949 Plymouth Wagon

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    B1B Daily driver in the 70's
  • Occupation


  • Location
    Southeast Pennsylvania
  • Interests
    B1B, P18

Recent Profile Visitors

1,458 profile views
  1. My parts book for '49 plymouth does not list "oil slinger/deflector". Please advise where it is installed and any references or pictures in manuals. Best regards. Happy New Year!!
  2. Penetrating oil, propane, percussion, patience and perseverance. Congratulations and Merry Christmas to you.
  3. Further to my last: The title of your original post answers my question "Oil leaking from behind crank pulley". They say at my age Memory and reading comprehension are the second and third things to go. Hope the information above may be useful anyway. Also, if you do have to use a speedisleeve, use some gasket sealer when installing the sleeve on the hub. Regards
  4. Does the oil leak look like it is coming from the back side or front side of the damper pulley? Reason I ask is because when I was assembling up my freshly machined short block I think I may have found another possible oil leakage path in this area. Seems to me if the mating surface of the nose of the pulley hub with the face of the timing sprocket is not exact, oil could get between them and and find a path along the shaft keyway and out at the very end of the crank shaft. Granted there is a slim chance of this since the nut and washer is very tight but a chance none the less. I smeared
  5. I'm guessing an engineering ooops. I worked in the engineering department at a OEM for aircraft support equipment . Parts called "spacers" or "shims" etc were frowned upon . Indicated the mating parts weren't properly dimensioned and required spacers or shims. Guessing if you called the spacer or shim a "reinforcement" that would be warranted and OK.
  6. Redmond49: although my Service manual and Parts book doesn't show this part, my parts book calls out for 2 of them. One on each side I'm guessing.
  7. Helped me a lot. I have two of these floating around in a parts box somewhere because I didn't know where they belonged on the '49 Suburban. The engine and clutch was disassembled by the previous owner and in parts when I bought it. This part is not pictured in my Service manual or Parts manual. Thanks and Regards.
  8. Trying to wrap my head around your situation. You have located #1 TDC by checking compression at #1 (tissue paper) and top of piston stroke using #6 piston. Marks on crankshaft pulley are "no where near" where they should be. If you had to estimate, how many degrees off are the timing marks on the pulley away from the pointer on the timing gear cover? What did you verify with the timing light? That the timing light works properly or that somehow now the timing marks on the pulley are correct. As stated above by web master: next is to check proper valve timing wrt piston position. With #
  9. Using water is a clever idea. Have some experience with thermal shock blowing friction material off wet aircraft brakes. Will try if a situation arises. FYI: a seller on Ebay has the long brake anchor brake in new condition for $55.00 each including shipping. Think that is why I cobbled up a replacement bolt myself. Regards.
  10. Were you able to get the nut off the end of the bolt? I spent three days on the same bolt on my '49 B1B. I couldn't get the nut off. Tried everything I could think of including various penetrating oils, heat with MAPP gas, then spraying penetrating on it while still hot. Finally used a 24" pipe wrench on the nut. Wrenched the nut and twisted and broke the bolt. More penetrating oil and heat then hammer and punch then c clamp, etc. Finally came out. Stick with it. It will eventually come out even if it is in pieces. Problem is finding a replacement. For a temporary fix I cobbled a r
  11. If you opt to remove and reinstall the oil pump: If my memory serves me right, when the oil pump is installed correctly, the slot in the oil pump shaft is horizontal when viewed through the distributor hole. Regards.
  12. Looks like your oil pump was installed 2 gear teeth off from where it should be to have the rotor end up at the standard position (7 o'clock position with number 1 piston at top dead center (TDC)). You have a choice. 1. Remove the oil pump and install it correctly according to the service manual. OR 2. Leave it as is. Verify you are at TDC of the compression stroke of No.1 cylinder, install the distributor cap and install the plug wire from No.1 spark plug to the distributor cap tower at the 4 o'clock position. Then the rest of the plug wires installed per the firing order in a clockwise di
  13. Might try to unbolt the wheel cylinder from the backing plate. Should be enough slack in the hose to pull it out far enough to get a wrench on the hose fitting and take the wheel cylinder off. That should then allow you to get the backing plate off. If your going to replace the hose (highly recommended), cut through the hose fitting hex as close to the frame as you can as seen in the second picture. With a punch, knock the remainder of the hose fitting free of the frame. This should give you access to the hose fitting/ hard brake line connection so it can be disassembled. My 2 cents. R
  14. My reference materials have no listing for a 288....a typo maybe?
  15. So if I read this right in the original post: the heavy cable going to the starter connects to the positive battery terminal. If this is a positive ground system, the cable coming from the positive battery terminal should be attached to the ground system, i.e. to the engine block. A cable from the negative battery terminal should then be connected to the large terminal on the starter.
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