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squirebill

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    310
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About squirebill

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    newtown square,pa
  • Interests
    The B1B, hobby in light blacksmithing, Pa hunting,
  • My Project Cars
    1948/49 Dodge B1B; 1949 Plymouth Wagon

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    B1B Daily driver in the 70's
  • Occupation
    Retired

Converted

  • Location
    Southeast Pennsylvania
  • Interests
    B1B, P18

Recent Profile Visitors

1,565 profile views
  1. On my '49 Plymouth I went under the dash and the light socket pulled out from the back of the guage. General pain in the neck with other wiring restricting access.
  2. Could the wires in the harness be for the lights within the gages and part of the under-dash wiring?
  3. Did you ever determine what had the engine frozen. Reason I ask is I had my truck in a shop for months with them doing body work on an "as available" time basis. When they gave it back to me told me told me they had to drop drive shaft so they could get it on the flatbed to deliver to me because the engine was seized. Took trans out so I could get engine out. Turns out the engine was free to turn but trans was seized in 2nd gear. Freed up trans, reinstalled, and was good to go. Just saying. Regards.
  4. I do not understand what you mean by "And the one cracked has three oil line connection". Do you think you may have cracked the cap when trying to remove it from the block after removal of the bearing cap bolts? Tapping it with a hammer for example. Was the engine running before you disassembled it? What was your reason for deciding to tear this engine down and rebuilding it? My parts manual is for 1949 P17,P18 so things may be different than on your 1940 engine. My parts manual has the same part number for the two center main bearing caps but also has a Note: " Crankshaft bearing caps,
  5. I would recommend billrigsby assembly list found under "Downloads" of this forum(see top of page). Go to Downloads, then to "What's New"....hit the side arrow once and it is the first item on the second page. Regards
  6. A lot of electricians use Klein tools. I bought a Klein meter last summer so haven't used it much but seems like a quality meter. I second the idea of a temperature probe. Handy for measuring radiator temperature. Also, I make sure replacement batteries are easy to get...AA or AAA. Might make the unit a little more bulky but can get them anywhere. Had a tiny meter years ago I used for traveling "on the job" ... coin type battery went dead in a remote place in a remote land...was easier to buy another meter than to find that damned battery. Regards
  7. ebay has them. search for "gutter roof rack" and "gutter roof bars". Seems they still use them on vans as ladder racks. Regards
  8. Sam....sure sounds easy enough. How much brake fluid do you put in the tank so you don't have to worry about the level going down far enough for air to get into the feed line? Looks like it could be a 2 gallon tank to fill. I understand wouldn't have to fill it but I buy brake fluid by the quart. Regards.
  9. Further to my last: If you don't have an extra master cylinder cap you could just drill and tap your cap for the pipe thread and just put a pipe thread plug in it when you don't have it set up for bleeding.
  10. As DJK suggested, I had an extra cap, drilled and tapped it for a 1/8-27 pipe thread to barbed hose adapter. Attached a hose and connected other end to a used bottle cap of a water bottle. Cut out the bottom of the bottle and screwed it to the cap . Tie-wrapped the bottle to the top of the steering wheel. Filled it all with brake fluid. Had a clear hose connected to the open bleed fitting of the wheel I was working on. Other end of hose into a jar on the floor with a bit of brake fluid in the bottom. Pumped pedal until had fluid in the clear hose coming out off the bleed fitting. Worked f
  11. Thinking further on what Plymouthy Adams has said: In the instructions the alignment of the slot in the shaft is referenced to the teeth on the drive gear. If the drive gear is not installed in the same position on every oil pump it seems things could be off by a few degrees one way or the other.
  12. Trying to wrap my head around what you are saying and believe you are one tooth off when installing the oil pump. The drive gear on the oil pump has 10 teeth on it. This means each tooth would be 36 degrees. (360 degrees / 10 teeth = 36 degrees/tooth). As Plymouthy Adams states the 5/8 inch stroke down from the piston at TDC is quite a distance with respect to degrees. I did a rough sketch of a circle with a diameter equal to the 4 3/8 inch stroke of the engine. If I come down the radius from 12 o'clock,then across from the radius at 90 degrees until I hit the circumference, I hit at about
  13. In 1969, as a 20 yr. old commuting to college in a 1950 Plymouth , had a brake pedal that wouldn't come up after it was released. Had to pull the pedal up with the toe of my right foot. Overhauled brake cylinders and replaced all brake return springs. No change. Went to attack the master cylinder and noticed rust dust coming from the shaft that the brake pedal pivoted on. Hit the lube fitting with a couple pumps from a hand held grease gun. Problem solved. Regards
  14. Jocko...I may have different manuals than you have....my car manual is for Plymouth 1946-1954...my truck manual is for Dodge B-1 trucks. Here's my "paper trail" to get to the 7 o'clock position for the No. 1 spark plug. In my car manual it gives pretty detailed instructions for installing the oil pump into the block. If these directions are followed, the slot in the oil pump (that the tang of the distributor fits into) will end up being in a horizontal position and according to the directions the engine will be at the top of the No.1 compression stroke. Then if you install the distributor, t
  15. So now your high school geometry has to come back. Has to do with volume change in a cylinder. As Sniper said , fluids are not compressible so volume put into a cylinder equals volume out of a cylinder. Let's say to apply each brake shoe it takes 1 cubic inch of fluid to move the shoe from it's released position to it's applied position. There are 8 brake shoes involved. So it would take 8 cubic inches out of the master cylinder to apply all the brakes. That being said it now comes down to the available stroke at the brake pedal. Say the brake pedal is 8 inches from the floor board and
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