Ivan_B

Look for the serial number, around the block, that should give you the necessary info. This looks like a Polyspherical Head V8.

I was under impression that the carb was leaking from the gasket and Mark removed the top to investigate further 🤔

That's great news! No need to PM, you can just post them here, I am sure everyone would appreciate these, for reference 😀

I usually fix these with sealant-dressed gasket If the fuel is actually going "upstream" I am thinking that there might be heat and/or pressure (the line between pump and carb) involved 🤔 In any event, more information from the TS will probably be useful, at this point.

I do not believe that Meniscus would be high-enough to overflow over the edge like this, with the proper float level 🤔

I think the debate about cost, etc, goes on because many people are not DIY-inclined. They are interested in a "kit", that can be just installed without further consideration, and are willing to pay for it. Similar to taxes: for most, it's just standard deduction and you can do it yourself, with minimal research, for free. Yet, it is "easier" for many people to pay someone else to do it for them.

I suspect that engine noises are best troubleshot from under the hood/underneath the car. Have someone step on the gas and listen 😉

Is it doing this when the engine is cold, as well?

Well, could be. If I got the pump a tooth off, I'll be ~36 degrees out of timing. Once I am done with the seal, etc. tomorrow, I'll just verify timing at TDC before running the engine

I saw that, but figured that it was for when you take everything apart, etc. I just carefully took it out (with the engine at whatever position) and marked the shaft, so that I inserted it back exactly the same way it was. Should be good to go, right? 🤨

He sand blasted it, so it's clean as new, at this point. The panel adhesive is interesting. I looked-up the 3M stuff, never heard of it before. On one hand, the bond is not as strong as mechanical but, on the other hand, you have a larger contact area, so it sounds promising. I wonder how well it keeps its properties after several years of vibration, weather, and freezing cycles 🤔 Weren't the German engineers experimenting with gluing planes in the early last century? It did not go well at that time, but maybe the technology has finally caught-up?

I don't think that pushing on the rivets would brake the welds on the drum like this. Was your wheel actually too small for this drum? Was it pushing onto the outer edge of the drum when you tightened the bolts? This is the only way I can see the wheel braking the drum off the hub like this.

Took the pump cap off, today. Thought it over and decided to go with a new o-ring. According to the size I measured, this should be the standard #143 o-ring. Napa is the only local store which could order something like this. We'll see how that goes on Tuesday. 🙄 BTW, on the 1940 frame with 201 engine, the pump slides right out without doing any adjustments to the engine.

Just look at all those bent lines down at the local store. No one bent those on purpose, that's how easy it is 🤣

What's the reason you are fixing this in the first place? If you are interested in stopping future rust, just coat this with liquid undercoating (on both sides) and carry on If you are actually having structural damage (metal is too weak to serve its purpose) you can cut a new piece of metal and rivet it in. It will not look pretty, but it will work. If you use liquid undercoating, you can probably even leave the old metal underneath, so that someone else (or a wiser version of you 😉) can do a proper repair in the future. I would definitely not use fiberglass, etc.