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  1. 2 points
    JSabah

    woodgraining

    My dash had rust spots and large scratches. I sanded it down to bare metal, primer and gave it a base beige spray then after doing some research on airbrush techniques, gave it a try .... after all, if I messed up I could always sand it down and start over. Sanding and priming took a day. Base color took a day. Practice with the airbrush on those days (on scrap) and while drying. Airbrush graining took a day and then clear coat (2k). Did the dash and the windshield interior frame at the same time for color/technique consistency. Here are some pics of the dash I did with an older spare I had. If you would like a write up on the colors and technique, let me know and I’ll document it. I also wanted a little redder and brighter finish.
  2. 2 points
    Rich, I just realized that I circled around you question as to why the airbags. I decided to go with airbags so I can lay the car as low as possible when parked and raise the car to the desired height when driving. Ive had a 64 cadillac with airbags for the last 15 years and Im very happy with it. I love the fact that I can raise a bit higher to get over driveway ramps, etc. this is the look Im going for.
  3. 1 point
    westaus29

    1938 Aussie 7 Passenger Plymouth

    I have visited this site a few times in the past but recently started again and have been impressed with the activity, the assistance offered and the relevance to my interests. I currently have a 1929 Plymouth tourer with body by Holden Australia restored on club licence since 1999, a 1955 Plymouth Belvedere Suburban RHD built in Detroit with 259 V8 and 2 speed auto also on club licence, and a 1938 7 passenger Plymouth with Aussie Richards body, in a million pieces. This my first attempt at a post with pics so hope it works. I purchased the '38 running and licensed in Feb 1981 with the plan of having a car I could use for club events while I slowly rebuilt my 1929 Plymouth from a wreck. It was painted black, the engine barely ran and the leather upholstery was falling apart, but we drove it onto the trailer under its own steam. I cant find any pictures of it as bought but I must have been dazzled by the fact it was a 7 passenger and had all its chrome and fittings. There was no water in the radiator and It turned out the engine had a hole in the head above No 1 cylinder, every pot had broken rings, and water had corroded the bearings, crank and camshaft. The bottom of each centre door post was rusted out, and there was rust in the boot (trunk) area. By July 1982 I had it on the road with new paint (Ford Neptune Blue), new tyres and a temporary engine out of a 1936 Dodge utility (pickup) that we found abandoned up in the hills, and sheets tacked over rebuilt seat frames. My daughter in the pic below is now 41! In the next couple of years I fixed oil leaks, replaced spring bushings, brakes and wheel bearings and changed the diff from original 7 passenger 4.3 to standard 4.1 ratio as we tend to travel longish distances. By 1984 I was ready to replace the interior with upholstery in original blue leather. When I stripped the hood lining I discovered I had serious rust issues under the lead used in large quantities on the roof, which was fabricated from a standard roof cut in half with a central insert about 18 inches wide. The repairs were completed by Nov 1985 and the car was back on the road, however the upholstery guy was no longer available. In 1988 we had a surprise addition to the family, a baby girl after 17 year drought! The upholstery money went on adding a bedroom. In the meantime the car was used as a daily driver by my wife on the school run - rule was "no running in the car"! By 1995 the brake lines had rusted thru, the radiator had collapsed for the second time, the exhaust was shot, valves keep sticking and to cap it off I backed it into our Falcon wagon and badly dented the boot. I deregistered it in disgust as by that time I was making progress on the 29. Fast forward to 2012 and we have changed address, I now have 1/2 acre and a 5 bay shed. However to fit the 7 passenger in it I had to remove the front clip. The car is now a mobile storage unit for surfboards, wetsuits and a couple of broken chairs. But it still runs! I plan to post an outline of the rebuild process which started in 2012, but here is a recent pic of the body on a home made rotisserie - stripping back roof to bare metal after a VERY bad sand blast and prime job. Jim
  4. 1 point
    P15-D24

    COLEMAN2a4x4.jpg

    Found these while going through some old files! Big truck 4x4 conversion kits!
  5. 1 point
    My dad used to say “Be careful, don’t jump from the frying pan to the fire”
  6. 1 point
    Jeff Balazs

    Vent windows

    Well there are a few "jobs" on these old trucks that should earn us a "merit badge" when successfully completed. Removing a badly corroded WDT is one and replacing the corner window gaskets by yourself is another. You haven't lived until you've tackled these. Jeff
  7. 1 point
    goingbush

    New '49 Dodge on the block.

    Anxious wait while our new Dodge delivery is completed. Bought sight unseen from a FaceBook Marketplace sale notice , Travelled 1700km via Webtow, http://www.webtow.com.au Can't be happier, non runner but way better than expected. Original books and paperwork included , receipts showing 4 previous owners. Toyed with the idea of converting it to EV , but its too damn good, going to bring back to new .
  8. 1 point
    Michael Sams

    Dodge b series 1/2 ton.

    Guys this is what I'm going to be working with. But I guess you have to start somewhere. I will be the official second owner of this beauty. And have the whole history on this truck. It's going to be a long road but I'm in for the long haul. I can't wait to get it back up and running and start to drive it. Thanks for all the help so far and hope that I might be able to call on you all for some help.
  9. 1 point
    Brent B3B

    Dodge b series 1/2 ton.

    difference is 1/4 ton (LOL, just kidding!) suspension and wheel base is the biggies. yes, my B4D (one ton) sheet metal is the same as my B3B (1/2 ton) this is a great "resource" http://dodgepilothouseclub.org/know/ph_parts/pilothouse.htm if you haven't seen it yet
  10. 1 point
    Reg Evans

    Dodge b series 1/2 ton.

    Usually the 3/4 and 1 ton's have longer beds so the running boards are longer too.
  11. 1 point
    Brent B3B

    Dodge b series 1/2 ton.

    hey welcome Michael, if your doing a "restoration" be careful when you get to removing the emblems.... especially that dash "dodge" script! oh and please don't put the front clip "dodge" script from the 52 back on the 53..... that's just wrong!
  12. 1 point
    TodFitch

    What is my pickup worth?

    Just because someone put $16,000 into a project doesn't mean that it is worth anywhere near that amount. My rough rule of thumb when I was fixing up my old Plymouth was that for every dollar I put into it I was raising the value by 25 cents. And in many cases I think I was optimistic about that. I strongly believe that the cheapest way to have a nice vehicle is to buy it completed.
  13. 1 point
    http://www.oldwillysforum.com/Plymouth/08-uai/uai.html Check out how Pete installed his in his 50 Ply. 4 dr. some years back. Look in the heading "Interior" on his web page. Enjoy your new car. !! I finally got my 50 4 dr, running good again after 5 years on sitting. DJ
  14. 1 point
    jpartington

    Vent windows

    Here is the vent window seal update. i returned my Steele seals and ordered the seals from roberts. I received them today and put them in. A perfect fit turns out the ones from Steele are about an inch too long. The Steele seals were a very high quality nice seal but just did not fit right. I strongly recommend the seals from Roberts if anyone is looking in the future.
  15. 1 point
    keithb7

    New Car Day! 1938 P6 Plymouth Deluxe

    I’ll crawl all over this car from top to bottom. For a couple of reasons. It’s all new to me and I’m enjoying the knowledge I am gaining. I also want to inspect everything and ensure its safe. In today’s example I had my legs up over the seat. My head down under the dash inspecting all the wiring. Found some interesting wiring for sure. Bad stuff that will be replaced right away.
  16. 1 point
    Andydodge

    Front airbag on stock front suspension

    Rich.........wash your mouth out.......lol..............those are Frod lights, methinks 1937-38 Frod...........lol........but I do agree, it DOES look nice,,,,,,,,,lol.........its funny that for years I don't think any 1940-48 Mopar 3 or 5 window coupe could have been given away but over the past say 10-15 years they have now been recognised for what they always have been, a really nice design and style........just a pity we didn't realise this ourselves and corner the market while we had the chance...........lol.............regards from Oz............andyd
  17. 1 point
    keithb7

    M6 (Gyro-Matic) stalling issue

    Do you have the proper Dodge shop manual? They have a good section on trouble shooting these transmission systems. Not downshifting could be electrical or hydraulic related. Regarding your comment on the interrupter switch. One of my shop manuals reads: Ignition Interrupter Resistor Check: With engine running ground the blue wire on the resistor, or at the interrupter switch. This should stall the engine. If the engine does not stall, either the blue wire from the interruptor switch to the resistor, the resistor itself, or the blue wire from the resistor to the coil is at fault. My understanding is, when you floor the accelerator when in 4th, at certain speed, the carb linkage sends a signal to the interruptor switch. It sends the ignition system coil to ground momentarily to remove engine power (load) from the transmission, to allow for a down-shift. There is also an anti-stall control on the carb. This is a dashpot to control a slow closing of the throttle. It prevents stalling upon quick release of the throttle. It appears there are several systems to check. A good Mopar manual is highly recommended. Several of the tests are simple, done with a continuity light.
  18. 1 point
    nolan in blaine

    Jeep axle swap

    So this is just a thread im writing for reference. To give someone a bit more info on the swap if they search for it and are thinking about it. My car is a 37 chrysler Royal 4 door. I had the 4.30 gear. It sucked bad. I bought a 3.55 rear end from a 96 Cherokee complete drum to drum. Typlicaly you find the Dana 35 but i lucked out and wound up with a Chrysler 8.25. Its a bit stronger im told. It measured about 3/4" narrower then the '37 axle. No biggie. I had to cut the shock mounts, and spring perches off. I used the perches off the '37 axle and welded them on the bottom of the jeep axle. I was able to bolt it in using the chrysler royal u-bolts. I did have to get a new drive line built. It needed to be 54 9/16" from the flange on the back of the O/D unit to the center of the u-joint on the axle. The new drive line had to have a slip yoke in place. I cut the ebrake cables off at the backing plates and just kept the original parking brake in the 37. I had to adapt the rear brake lines from the chrysler to the jeep, but running the newer rear brakes has made a huge difference in stopping power. Id say its partly due to the smaller diameter rear wheel cylinders taking less volume to move, and also im sure i never had the old brakes adjusted right anyway. But it stops much better! I will say, if you're thinking about better gearing... Do it! This swap isnt hard at all if you can do some cutting and welding. I paid $100 for the axle, and another $375 for the brand new drive shaft. Before the swap, I could do about 55-60 in overdrive and it sounded like it was wound to tight. I know it would probably do it all day but i felt it was revving too high. Now it will cruise on the freeway doing 75 and its nice and easy. And on the back roads it does 50-55 in 3rd. Im glad i got the 3.55 gears but a 3.23 would have been just a bit better. 3.73s seem a bit more common but i dont think it would have been ideal for my car. Another benefit i to the swap, for me anyway, is the horrendous vibration i had at cruising speed is completely gone. Its super smooth now. Now to get some seat belts in this thing so i can take the kids over the pass this summer!
  19. 1 point
    dale

    Rack and pinion steering for 46 Plymouth

    Im considering adding rack and pinion steering on my 46 Plymouth. Id like to know if all units require power or if they work without and if they dont need power does it make the steering much easier turning than stock. THX, Dale
  20. 1 point
    As Adam stated " Langdon's Stovebolt has the Carter/Weber 32's originally used on the 1.6 and 1.8L Escorts. Work great in duals, I still think 3 is too much" That being said that is a fantastic looking manifold. I have them on my 37 Dodge D5 and have worked flawlessly since installed.
  21. 1 point
    TomP

    PT125 Rebuild

    Job Done, in the end I removed the 4 screws which hold the right hand rear floating mount, within an hour the bracket was aligned to the mounting and bolted back into the frame. Didn't even break a nail. Now to get ready to firer it up.
  22. 1 point
    TomP

    PT125 Rebuild

    It's in all bar one 9/16unf bolt which screws into the rear floating bracket, will need to remove the lower bolt which is a nut & bolt fixing, then wedge the gape to see when the holes aligned, I will try the mirror on a stick with a torch but there's not alot of room. Getting to old for this rockin n rolling on the floor.
  23. 1 point
    TomP

    PT125 Rebuild

    Been a while since posting here, moved along a little with this 41, have stripped the bodywork off of the front end so that I could prepare it for a 1947 T142 engine trans that has been de-coked and tidied in readiness for fitting.Still can't embed Photos into text Primed, Frame with 2 coats of Rust-Oleum, 2 Coates John Deere Green in keeping with it's former life, plus the engine waiting to be fired up.
  24. 1 point
    LODI3QTR

    Show us your suburbans

    This Is My '50 Suburban Driving Through a Sean in " The Marvelous Mrs Maisel " On Amazon Prime TV Series. IMG_9967.MOV
  25. 1 point
    johnsartain

    glass

    Dish washing detergent and lots of it. Put the glass into the rubber, Lube the outer rubber channel and slip a cord into the channel. Lube the metal with the dishwashing detergent as well. You may want to experiment with mixing a little water with the detergent as some say this makes it more slippery. Start the rubber channel onto the metal that the window goes into. Keeping pressure in the glass start pulling the cord from the opposite side gradually working the rubber lip over the metal. It helps to slap the glass with your flat palm, not banging with a fist, or work the cord in a circular motion as you are removing it. The cord I used was paracord.
  26. 1 point
    Don Coatney

    Valve guides, Spitfire

    In 1969 BSA was offering a new motorcycle to anyone who set a speed record at Bonneville with a rocket 3. The record was around 130MPH. First run I hit 116. Next run was the last for me as the transmission case cracked and no spare was available. But it was a fun week. I met Burt Munro in person and touched the worlds fastest Indian.
  27. 1 point
    TomP

    PT125 Rebuild

    Few more updates from last week, engine trans is ready to go in, just got to clean up the frame, blast & spray, 3 coats Rustoleum, Firewall will be John Deere Green as it was in service. Rust repair to be completed on both sides of the cab, did they all go there?
  28. 1 point
    Don Coatney

    6 volt tachometer 6 cylinder cars

    I have converted to 12 volts. I located this tachometer on eBay several years back and I paid less than ten bucks. It took a bit of searching to find one that only goes to six grand. It has worked flawlessly for several years. This photo was taken before I shifted into 5th gear. When I shifted the RPM's dropped to around 2400.
  29. 1 point
    Don Coatney

    6 volt tachometer 6 cylinder cars

    Most all tachometer's use the same connections.
  30. 1 point
    Plymouthy Adams

    Door Seal Adhesive

    Weldwood rubber contact cement..tape the door opening to the width of your weather strip..coat the door..coat the weather strip..when just dry to the touch..these two will bond like nobody's business...then just pull away tape for quick clean up..wha-la..Bob's your uncle
  31. 1 point
    This is a dual chamber MC but shows how to do it.
  32. 1 point
    deathbound

    Show Your Wheels

    Stock 16" wheels painted black with chrome lug nuts, 6.00-16 Firestone Deluxe Champion bias ply wide whites......
  33. 1 point
    dlrides

    Show Your Wheels

    Added some compliments to the wide whites, with a visor and skirts.
  34. 1 point
    dlrides

    Show Your Wheels

    Stock wheels painted Rio Maroon, Coker 3 1/4" whites, Hollywood Flipper covers.
  35. 1 point
    Don Coatney

    Show Your Wheels

    On occasion I have been called a loose nut.
  36. 1 point
    Don Coatney

    Show Your Wheels

    Here you go. The wheel I get to play with the most. I have liked chrome wheels all my life.
  37. 1 point
    desoto1939

    Water Pumps

    Yes there are special Miller water pump tools. The is a puller to pullthe end that hold the pull and fan blade. Then ther is a tool to pulland installthe two innter busings. There also is a tool to chase the two inner bushing and also a tool that is used to face the internal section of the bushing. I have these and also a special tool to locate the hole in the main rod that hold the flange to center the hole to drillthe hole inthe main rod that goes throught the pully. I have all of these tools, Miller Tools. Alos note that the rebuild kits if found run about 45-60 dollars sometime you can get a rebuilt WP for the same amount and do not have to worry about if you did the job correctly. So spend 60 for a kit or 70-90 for a pump that you just install and then go for a ride. Some people like to fix other like to replace. Inthe old days they fixed them at the dealership. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com
  38. 1 point
    48Dodger

    Water Pumps

    Finding old threads has not been easy for me......seems I have to stumble across it them in a search. This really is a great thread Merle. And great pics JBN. I mean without this thread...the water pump that was laying in the oil pan of a motor I bought....I would have thought in was an internal water pump, and just left it there..... 48D
  39. 1 point
    Don Jordan

    hood release question

    Well now I've done it. I hope someone else has done it too and can tell me an easy fix. I can't get my hood open. The hood release cable moves back and forth so I don't think that's the problem. I'm afraid to put pressure some where that might break something. I've done what I think are the obvious remedies: push down thinking it will pop up. I really can't get it to push down. Push up thinking it will break lose. Nothing. This is really frustrating. Now I don't know if this will have anything to do with it but the front wheels are up on stands. Would that angle have anything to do with it? This is really scary. I would appreciate any ideas that doesn't include taking off the front fender. thanks
  40. 1 point
    OLD DODGE

    DODGE ROUTE VAN (Wanted)

    Large wall poster for the RV. I threw a $20 bill in for size reference.
  41. 1 point
    Young Ed

    Steering Box Debate

    That new seal being slightly thicker might be a good thing. If the old one had worn any kind of groove in the shaft the new seal being thicker should put the worn spot on the inside and give you a fresh start on the sealing surface.
  42. 1 point
    nj viking

    Found the elusive Napa shock Part #'s

    I know some were looking for the Monroe shocks from Napa with no avail. I gave the numbers 31000 and 32207 to my buddy that owns a Napa store. Couldn't find it.. He calls Monroe for the numbers and gets it. Plus he says they're a pretty common shock and had them in stock. 94008 (31000) 94038 (32207) The list price is $74 for all. Neatest thing is I open the box and the shocks are stamped 31000 and 32207! Go figure.... Viking.
  43. 1 point
    Dodgeb4ya

    The Money Pit

    Great collection of trucks! Love the 1 tons.
  44. 1 point
    Dodgeb4ya

    Removing Rear Brake Drums

    Have removed hundreds of them over the years. Use a quality puller and don't be a "Pansy"! Never had to wait on one. In the shop get-er done-now. Never stripped one or needed heat either. They always come off. I tighten the screw up really tight with an impact holding the puller with one hand to absorb impact shock. Then tighten some more by banging on the dogbone. Wack the screw end a couple times-tighten the screw up more-repeat if necessary and BANG-off she comes. The early 60's Chryslers are the really hard ones to get off, but they too come off. Got to let the car know who's in charge! Keep the nut on the axle if you don't want to hold the drum with your hand to stop the drum from flying across the shop!!!
  45. 1 point
    Plymouthy Adams

    Removing Rear Brake Drums

    also can do internal damage to the carier..this practice is advised against in the repair manual..do not recommend this approach..user take caution..
  46. 1 point
    grey beard

    timing marks

    Okay Gents, a little clarification is in order here.Fiirst off, initial timing is always set at slow, hot idle - NOT at 1200 tpm. This is necessary so that the centrifugal advance weights under the breaker plate in your distributor do not begin to come out and add additional advance. If you set your timing at speeds above slow idle, you are likely getting some centrifugal timing in the mix, which will affect the reading of your timing lighr. Timing on our flatties is important but not real critical. You want as much advance - turn the distributor counter clockwise to adance - as the engine will tolerate without preignition. Usually this boils down to four to six degrees before top dead center. Too much advance, and you get pinging. Too little advance, and the engine runs hotter, burns more fuewl and has less power. As to identifying your acceleragor pump. you really must find a shop manual to know this stuff. It shows a break-down of each part and each circuit. Our Caarter carbs are quite simple and easy to work on, but they must be right to work as they should. I won't attempt to explain the entire carburetor, except to say that at idle, the engine uses the circuit that you adjust with the small screw on the lower side that has a spring behind the head. At higher speeds, the idle circuit is no longer working and the main metering circuit is used. This includes the main jet in the bottom of the fuel bowl and the vengturi cluster in the carb throat. When you accelerate from idle to higher speeds, a hesitation will take place between these two circuits. The accelerator pumop is just a squirter that richens the mixture momentarly on acceleration. Nothig more, nothing less. Terrell Macchine rebuilds old vacuum advances. Bernbaum and Roberts also carry these new. Either way, they are spendy - like $65 to 75 a pop. Good Luck
  47. 1 point
    Charles Furman

    1949 Dodge B1B108 Woodie

    This shot of the inside of my woodie was used in a feature article in the San Diego Union Tribune.
  48. 1 point
    Plymouthy Adams

    Removing Rear Brake Drums

    We can get you a good deal on Forida beach property right here in South Georgia..it is just a matter of time before the Florida panhandle slips into the gulf...less money out your pocket..however you must have patience...
  49. 1 point
    billwillard

    Removing Rear Brake Drums

    Don't knock it till you try it. Have done this for 50 years. BILL
  50. 1 point
    billwillard

    Removing Rear Brake Drums

    Loosen wheel nuts 1/2 turn. After reinstalling cater pins drive until you hear a pop. You'r drum is now loose. BILL


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