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Sam Buchanan

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Everything posted by Sam Buchanan

  1. Ok......but I would not hesitate to use the TinyTach on a positive-ground car and would expect it to work the same way it does on a negative-ground vehicle or one with no electrical system. The factory reply is dubious because the tach has no connection to the vehicle's electrical system. Have to wonder if their reply is due to having never tried the tach on a positive ground vehicle and not wanting to make an official endorsement.....but there is bound to be some old positive-ground tractors out there using this tach as an hourmeter..... Whatever........ 😀
  2. Maybe this question would find more exposure on the truck side of the forum? https://p15-d24.com/forum/6-mopar-flathead-truck-forum/
  3. Wow.....that was brutal. 😁 I sure do like that old-fashioned cowl vent, however.
  4. I don't recall the gage of the mild steel plate but it is approximately the same thickness as the gasket that usually fits between the manifolds. I tried the plate with a gasket but that messed up the manifold hole spacing at the crankcase. The gasket was removed and a liberal coating of red RTV on the exhaust manifold took its place. So far the joint is gas-tight since the two manifolds get cinched up tightly. There is no need to seal the intake side of the block-off plate. No corrosion treatment was used since I assumed it would be quickly eroded by exhaust gases. With all new hardware the intake manifold can be easily removed if service is needed but I think we should be good for a long time. A stainless steel plate would probably be the ultimate option.
  5. A block-off plate will fit with the flap in the closed position. However, I ground the welds on the flap, removed the shaft and replaced it with a 5/16" bolt which is a nice fit where the shaft used to be. If you go this route use a narrow nut on the inboard end of the bolt and trim it close so you can still access the manifold stud nut behind the heat riser (the one that is often forgotten!). Instead of securing the 5/16" bolt with a nut, I cut it to length so it would be flush with the heat riser and plug-welded a steel strap to the head of the bolt. The strap is secured to the manifold with a 3/8"-24 bolt in the hole that was previously used for the heat riser spring stop. This gives full access to the hidden manifold nut/stud.
  6. You will probably be fine, the engine may just need a little more time to warm up the intake for smooth throttle response on cold days.
  7. I may have misunderstood your question. I have a blockoff plate on the exhaust manifold that prevents hot air from entering the plenum in the intake manifold. Rereading your post makes me wonder if you are referring to deleting the heat riser flap and leaving the intake exposed to hot air all the time. I suspect our engines are tuned so mildly that whether or not there is hot air in the plenum doesn't impact power output very much. But it probably has an impact on driveability under extreme conditions.
  8. Nick, my car seems to be happy without a functional heat riser. However, I don't know if this is of consequence in a colder clime such as Michigan. I'm sure more experienced members will chime in with opinions.
  9. I've found that a few drops of oil on the flaring tool really improves the operation.
  10. Wonder if the new tubing is metric.......
  11. Sam Buchanan

    exhaust

    I think the options will be stainless or mild steel.
  12. That's what I'm talking about! Of course your cover is blown now.
  13. Hmmmm....the clock opening minus the delete plate has pretty nice borders...gonna have to give this some thought. Already snagged a good photo of a P15 clock. 😊
  14. I was pretty sure this was fairly common.....now to find a P15 clock with a dead movement (or no movement).....at a reasonable price.
  15. Ok...I have to ask.....has any one considered converting a clock to a AA-powered quartz movement?
  16. I don't recall the particulars but I suspect there was some state historical grant money involved. Upkeep is by our local city employees. Our town is big on historical districts, lots of interest in this sort of thing. We still have a for-real downtown square with a 1900 courthouse that is the site of several events and a couple of big car shows. Here is another shot showing the entire building:
  17. You know how it is....gotta fill the tank with That Good Gulf Gasoline on the way back to the house.......price was only 19 cents/gallon...... The back story----several years ago the historical buffs in our town decided to save one of the oldest gas stations in the state of Alabama instead of seeing it demolished. It has been restored and is a favorite site for old car photos.
  18. I'm assuming you have carefully set the idle mixture.......
  19. There is no need for the steel tube you fabbed.....just run rubber hose all the way to the pump. Back the brass reverse flair fitting out of the pump and replace it with a barbed fitting.
  20. It may be just the way the light is falling on the hose....but is the hose too large for the steel tubing? Is the hose just slipped over the 90? You want the proper sizing here to prevent an air leak that could kill the ability of the pump to pull a vacuum. The 90* fitting isn''t doing you any favors...can it be exchanged for a straight fitting so you will have a straighter shot to the pump? You can get a reverse flare fitting for the 90 that can then be adapted to a barb for the hose. Or...just buy the correct pre-made hose from Bernbaum.
  21. Welcome to the community! Many of us have been at the 90% done....90% to go stage......
  22. Yep, I was impressed with how good the joints look on my car, no apparent wear. I should be able to replace a boot quicker next time....will only be a two pound chunk of gov't cheese.... 😂
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