Los_Control

Might be time to start having a yearly BBQ at your place

I could just imagine the fun my dogs would have chasing it, the hours pulling the quills out of my dogs nose .... better you then me

I think it may be worth a shot to go ... because of current lock downs etc... some may not bother to venture out and attend. Which could be a bonus to a buyer. I have attended a few auto auctions in the past, I do not care for them. 1rst one was a towing yard, and the usual crowd was there during preview, A few min before start time they were in a circle and discussing among themselves who was going to bid on what. Just saying they had it all figured out before bidding began .... an outsider not in the in crowd would be frowned upon. Second one I did actually buy a car. It was 30 years ago, I loaned my truck to my sister/Brother inlaw to move, they brought it back with the rods knocking. Thats life. I had to have a car for work and 25 years old and $600 in the bank. This was a dealer auction where they brought the trade ins they did not want to sell. I chose a 1981 plain jane Toyota Corolla with low miles, left rear quarter panel was totaled, red car with a blue drivers door .... $100 hoopti all day long. Think I won the bid with $300 and then cost $450 to get it out the door. On a side note, I drove that car for 5 or 6 years with no issues, finally carb needed rebuilt and I junked it.

I have a couple small jack stands I bought from tractor supply, probably should check to see if they are also on the list. But, I can have them set at lowest level, put them under the axles of my truck, plenty high enough for me. If I need more height, would set wooden pads under the stands. I just never was a fan of the lever on the side to ratchet raise/lower the stands. two 2"x6"x11" lying side by side, with 2 more on top going opposite direction and 3" screws to hold them together. Thats a good sturdy base for the stand and raises it 3" Use 2 pads on each jack stand and raises it 6" Attach a loop of rope to them for a handle, easy to swing under and into place, or pick up and store in some corner. Cheap and easy to build and never worry about the jack stand falling. Just my two cents, mine are not harbor freight, possible they were made by the same manufacturer? Just never bothered to check the numbers because I wont be raising them up and working under the car anyways. I might possibly raise them up if I was not going to be working under them.

Love the Background, reminds me of the Sandia Mountains when I lived in New Mexico, And the lawn is much nicer and low maintenance then anything I can grow. Low maintenance is a goal worth working for. Leaves more time to work on our old cars Different zones, I have some plants including cucumber just sitting and not growing. I did plant several more seeds today .... several peppers and tomatoes, cantaloupe blooming but no fruit yet. I dug and prepared the patch today in the back 40 for asparagus, watermelon, cucumbers and got them planted in the ground ... way over planted but see what survives and grows. Suppose to be a lot of rain coming up, thought a perfect time to plant the young plants and seeds today.

I am not sure why, but always hated side terminal batteries as a poor kid and having battery issues. That attitude stayed with me through my years. Then lately as I learn about Hot Rods ... and hear people using side post batteries, talking as if they are a upgrade .... I think they are nuts and ask why? Answer I get, less corrosion, less problems, more clearance & more reliable. I have to admit, once I fixed the horrible wiring PO did on my chevy, no corrosion no problems. Just saying I saw your edit as possibly you were not "proud of it" I am suggesting it is fine, you may want to get correct cables and put a GM battery back in it FWIW, while looking at the beautiful condition of the body on the Desoto, I was looking in the background at the 64

Great looking truck, I agree with a compression check before doing anything. If for no other reason but a starting point. Rings will get sticky, valves gummy, from sitting ... sounds like yours was stuck at one point ... naturally would expect stuck rings also. These old engines will start to improve compression and valves will start seating after they run some. Get a few heat cycles going .... but was told stuck rings really like to run in their power band while driving, not just sit and idle. That will get them loosened up and working as should. My truck sat for 10+ years, compression was all over the place on the cylinders, I wrote them down. #2 cyl was at 60 psi. Let it run a short time and was up to 75psi, Last time I checked I think it was up to 90psi. This is why I suggest a compression check just to monitor progress. At this stage I probably idle maybe 6 hours, and try to avoid long idle sessions and wait till can drive it to see improvements.

Going to agree with you on acetone/atf. If going to be applying heat ... this combo is pretty flammable. I would want to keep a fire extinguisher close by. Especially if the engine is in the car.

Just a thought, I also use firefox on linux with no Norton. Firefox has a add-on called "Ublock Origin" Best add blocker I ever used before. Simple to add it then remove later if you do not want it. I am unsure how it may or may not play well with norton, Ublock may try to block norton and norton may think ublock is a virus I just hate when I tell my computer to do one thing and it does another.

Watched a youtube vid recently on removing exhaust manifold bolts. What I took away from it.. Naturally spray them and soak Loosen the bolt a smidge and then tighten, back and forth going a little further each time. Key point, if they do not want to turn at all. Reason is the shoulder of the bolt is rusted to the exhaust manifold. Here you need to apply heat with your torch, you can hear a click when the stud breaks free, then repeat the 2 steps above. This was a mechanic working on modern engines with the head out on the work bench. Principle is the same. One that would not move, he heated with his map gas torch, then zoomed in the camera as he removed it and loads of rust was coming out as soon as the head of bolt backed out.

You are 100% correct, but today these are project cars ... back then they were daily drivers and we just wanted them to start to get us back and forth to work. Most never bothered to set the dwell. I am just one of many that never bothered to use the dwell meter, a match book was close enough for me to set the points.

Think my point I was trying to make, dwell is important. Simple things like the rub block on the points will wear out and change the dwell. The breaker plate in the distributor will wear out and change the dwell. When I was a kid, I owned a dwell meter but never used it. Most people just set points with feeler gauges and called it good. Your post reminds me of a co worker and his nick name was "Balls" He had a set of brass ones ... he told everyone what he thought. When talking about setting points with a feeler gauge, he just laughed and said you do not know what you are doing. And would explain why setting points with a feeler gauge is a good starting point, but not a ending point. fwiw, he raced a old cj5 jeep with a 327, trailer it to the dirt, race, roll & wreck it, trailer it home and repeat next weekend. And this was before the internet. The dwell meter will help you determine the condition of your distributor if it fluctuates too much while engine is at idle ... just a over looked tool too often forgotten.

No idea about the rpm, to me it seems you have a 6 volt positive ground system and a 12 volt negative ground tool. Maybe does not matter. While the dwell itself is ideal using the meter and not setting the points. With a sbc they made it easy, you can use a Allen wrench while the engine is running, open the window and adjust the dwell. For the rest of us, we need to manually open and close and adjust and get eventually what is correct dwell., and then set the timing .... back then most never bothered to set the dwell and today I wonder how many know why they should have.

Thats why I never said anything in the first post ... I trust you know what you are doing and why. When someone is asking, I wanted to give my opinion. I also put brass plugs in my block thinking it was best. I have brought this question up a few time ... brass or steel? Is like asking which oil to use and all the opinions. I already bought the steel plugs and sitting on the bench, I want the plugs to rust out and not the block around the plugs. Brass will never rust out. Best of wishes fixing your minor issue ... JB-weld and a dremel would probably fix it.

I think that is probably the worst tube ever. That I have seen. My issue is one sticky lifter and some oil burning... I think a nice long drive may correct this, a long idle in the driveway will not. 50/50 chance I will be pulling the motor. IMHO and I send hugs to Jeff, just not something I would use on something I cared about. They are rubber, they get affected by heat cycles they expand and contract and dry up and shrink, then you need to tighten them up .... this imho is a get me buy fix on a daily driver you do not care about. After a few years and they dry up and shrink, they can fall out while driving down the freeway ... lose all your coolant. Good fix if you are a 20 year old kid. I assume Jeff is smarter then me and knows what he is doing.