Los_Control

OK my 2 cents .... I think the dude is a hero! Joking of course, but I do think his style of making the engine a usable commodity was spot on. When that car/engine was 10 years old, needed repairs .... it was sitting at the local gas station. Today the average mechanic has better tools in a home garage then a professional mechanic in the early 60's-70's ... maybe even the 80's I appreciate the dude showed a video that showed how it was done years ago ... Harmonic ballancer? Get the hammer out and get er did. Today I think you & I may do things different.

I was born in 1962 .... never did understand the x y or z crowd ... just considered myself an American.

I talked with a repair shop yesterday. Was very helpful. All pro clutch and drive line repair. In Abilene. His opinion was it was not common but happens, needs to look at it to see if repairable. Prices seemed reasonable, roughly $160 labor to replace yoke and re-ballance + cost of new yoke. I will be using them in the future at some point. Imho, I probably bent it removing the old original u-joint ... bend it back and it works fine. I drove it yesterday and while only in town, Am sure the problem is solved.

Thanks for the info, I am repeating the story as told to me from my late Uncle. Seems Cadillac did use it for a bit, I am sure he was a Ford guy and never owned a Cadillac back then. At 16 years old.

Dang gm never had a positive ground. Even though positive ground was used by others and seemed to be better then negative ground. Was in the 50's they wanted to make some uniformity so all car manufacturers matched. Chebby came out with the sbc, it was a big hit and all others went with negative ground because chebby was the leader at the time. We all know positive ground is better, just the way the cards were dealt.

10 years old? Heck that thing is barely broke in by my standards I was thinking about buying a air compressor from a estate sale. Was pretty old, kid swore his father was still using it. I could probably still get it for $50 or less. Just to move it would need to hire a tow truck and have it lifted and then delivered. Compression on the pump seemed pretty low I felt would make a fun project to rebuild. It was well over a 100 gallon Horizontal tank, 220 motor. It lived outside the garage under a dog house, would have to be same here. Still happy I walked away from i

What you do is cut the window & surrounding window frame from a donor car. Then you modify and add the new metal frame with window to your car. You do not take the glass and make a new frame for it. I suppose you could ... those that have done it probably would not do it twice. No I have never done it before. Watching a few vids with chopping tops on cars, lots easier to cut the metal + glass out of another car and then graft it into your project.

Yeah only option I know for used ... if available can drive to Abilene and pick it up. If they allow me back in the store. Last year bought something off car-part and drove to Abilene to pick it up ... They jacked me around on time, I showed up and they went to lunch. I explained I was retired ... I did not have time to sit here and wait on them. Other day I went to the local truck stop, asked for 3 of the daily dinner specials. Sometimes would be wise if I had a mouth filter ... life would be easier. Yeah will search carpart.com tomorrow and call yards to see if c

Weeeel, a thrown rod you know how to proceed. In this case it may be this ... or it may be that or we could try this ... or we may need all 3. Then you have to wonder how much effort & time to put in it ... before it does throw a Rod. I am a cheap bastard and fix everything. Sometimes is not wise.

I wish you luck with it. In my past life I just wanted portable air compressors to deal with carpenters air tools. Whole different animal.

Yeah I agree with others ... my first thought was, if they cant remove a cotter key, how will they remove the drums? Here in Hicksville TX, I went to a buddy who is same age as me and owns a automotive repair shop .... Wanted to rent his hub puller ... he had no clue what I was talking about and never used one before. Just saying, your mechanic is in for a real treat if not familiar with the old tapered axles.

I dunno, maybe ocd is kicking in ... I got it back together. I had to show love to both ears .... just when I thought all was good it seemed to move again. 1, maybe they should be pressed out, not beaten to a pulp with a 3 pound sledge .... never had issues in the past changing u-joints. 2, I suspect this truck was ordered when new to haul a trailer. It has overloads and a class 3 hitch & 420k miles on it. While many parts have been changed, I suspect the drive line is original with 400k+ miles on it. Now am wondering if maybe getting metal fatigue?

Was wondering if @Snipergot snow, about 1 hour ago it just stopped. Still only 32 so who knows it may start again. Just not common for this area ... 2nd time this year so far.

Yes sir I just went out and turned the heat on in the shop, going to do exactly what you thought. I do not need to drive it, just get it moved so dodge can be parked under cover. I guess I planned that all along ... real issue I was fighting, can I just call that good and consider fixed? Or do I need to get it replaced .... seems everyone agrees it needs replaced.

It is a common 1991 chebby 1/2 ton ... extended cab short bed,step side. the odd part is it is a manual trans. Most are automatics. Buuuut, it is a 2 piece drive shaft, possibly I can match the front 1/2 with another? Buuuut, it also has the carrier bearing installed on it, is pressed on and brand new. Not sure I can remove it and expect to re-use it. Another $40-$50 I think the turbo 350 automatic and the manual 5spd are different lengths, do not know if they use different yokes. 99% of these trucks are a silvarado, automatic, power windows, power seats, carpets et