frijolito Posted January 8, 2022 Report Posted January 8, 2022 I’m sure this has been asked before but, what oil is everyone running. I’m in Northern California with a 201 Plymouth flathead/L Head. Quote
Bryan Posted January 8, 2022 Report Posted January 8, 2022 People need more info to answer. How long have you had the car? Have you had it completely rebuilt recently and want to know what oil to use? If you have not had it rebuilt and recently got it, you need to be careful if it's been running with non-detergent oil. If so don't put detergent oil in it. If you had the engine rebuilt, asking the oil question will start a chain of 30W vs 10-30W comments for the next week. Use the search box on the upper right, put in oil, 10W, 30W, detergent and click on the "all of my search term words" about midway below. Quote
Doug&Deb Posted January 8, 2022 Report Posted January 8, 2022 What is the history of the engine? If it’s been rebuilt any good quality modern oil will work. I use Shell Rotella T 15W40 because of the extra zinc. If not rebuilt I’d use only non detergent 30W . Putting detergent oil in an old engine can cause sludge to migrate and clog things. Quote
Sniper Posted January 9, 2022 Report Posted January 9, 2022 I use whatever 10w30 oil I find a decent price on, last time it was Castrol GTX. Based on the general hackery I have found in this car I can pretty much guarantee whomever owned it before put whatever oil they found in it. If sludge was going to be an issue it would have already happened for me. Zinc issues are more applicable as valve spring pressures increase, that's pretty much an non issue for the weak valve springs our engines have. It doesn't hurt though. 2 Quote
frijolito Posted January 9, 2022 Author Report Posted January 9, 2022 So it was rebuilt but I don’t know exactly how many miles. I’m assuming about 1000 to 1500 but really not sure. I’ve changed the oil once with straight 30wt and a zinc additive. But was looking at the Lucas 10/30 or 10/40. It is supposed to have enough zinc so I wouldn’t have to add it Quote
keithb7 Posted January 9, 2022 Report Posted January 9, 2022 Do a few of us agree zinc additive, like lead additive, is not need for these flathead engines? I too use whatever 10W30 I get at a decent price. Clean engines. Clean internals. Newly rebuilt. Don't over think it. Any modern oil is better than the oil back in the day, that these engines were engineered to run with. I like Northern California. 10W30 land 8 months of the year. 10W40 in the dog days of summer. 3 Quote
frijolito Posted January 9, 2022 Author Report Posted January 9, 2022 31 minutes ago, keithb7 said: Do a few of us agree zinc additive, like lead additive, is not need for these flathead engines? I too use whatever 10W30 I get at a decent price. Clean engines. Clean internals. Newly rebuilt. Don't over think it. Any modern oil is better than the oil back in the day, that these engines were engineered to run with. I like Northern California. 10W30 land 8 months of the year. 10W40 in the dog days of summer. Thank you Quote
kencombs Posted January 9, 2022 Report Posted January 9, 2022 39 minutes ago, keithb7 said: Do a few of us agree zinc additive, like lead additive, is not need for these flathead engines? I too use whatever 10W30 I get at a decent price. Clean engines. Clean internals. Newly rebuilt. Don't over think it. Any modern oil is better than the oil back in the day, that these engines were engineered to run with. I like Northern California. 10W30 land 8 months of the year. 10W40 in the dog days of summer. At least two of us agree with that. Mild valve lift rate, low RPM and low valve spring pressures don't require extra zinc IMO. Research the history of zinc additive. Was not used in the flathead era as far as I can tell. Heavy OHV trains and higher RPM engines drove the need. 2 Quote
oldodge41 Posted January 9, 2022 Report Posted January 9, 2022 I use Shell Rotella-T 15-40. Reasonably priced locally. I agree any oil you choose will suffice. Before my internal inspection I ran non-detergant 30w. Engine wasn't sludged up so switched to detergent. Quote
BobDeSoto Posted January 9, 2022 Report Posted January 9, 2022 60,000 - miles - all original - I use non detergent 30W - straight six Quote
Booger Posted January 9, 2022 Report Posted January 9, 2022 All good repllies. Non detergent 30 W was the drink of choice 50 yrs ago. Modern multis detergents are the smart choice. I recently dropped the pan on Booger to extract what goo was in there (very little) now the oil is so freekin clean I can barely see it on the dipstick. Thats a nice looking power plant, Frito 1 Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted January 9, 2022 Report Posted January 9, 2022 I got high hopes for the production of a synthetic from the mucus of the hagfish...one 2 foot hag can produce 5 gallons of mucus in minutes.....talk about your endless renewable source...until then dino of your favorite blend....API sets the standards, follow that and you have no real worries. 2 1 Quote
plymouthcranbrook Posted January 9, 2022 Report Posted January 9, 2022 Farm and Fleet 10-40 non synthetic. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted January 9, 2022 Report Posted January 9, 2022 1 minute ago, Dodgeb4ya said: I use oil. bet as a child you were lubed regularly by you mom with castor oil....I hated that stuff with a passion...you could run but eventually you came in for supper or time to go to bed...then reckoning time....! Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted January 9, 2022 Report Posted January 9, 2022 More so with a type of grease...Vick's Vapor Rub! 1 Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted January 9, 2022 Report Posted January 9, 2022 Vick's was nasty stuff.....but did work for opening sinus....never saw the need/benefit for the castor oil though. (not to be confused with Castrol) Quote
frijolito Posted January 9, 2022 Author Report Posted January 9, 2022 1 hour ago, Booger said: All good repllies. Non detergent 30 W was the drink of choice 50 yrs ago. Modern multis detergents are the smart choice. I recently dropped the pan on Booger to extract what goo was in there (very little) now the oil is so freekin clean I can barely see it on the dipstick. Thats a nice looking power plant, Frito 2 Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted January 9, 2022 Report Posted January 9, 2022 (edited) Delete.. Edited January 9, 2022 by Dodgeb4ya Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted January 9, 2022 Report Posted January 9, 2022 3 minutes ago, Plymouthy Adams said: Vick's was nasty stuff.....but did work for opening sinus....never saw the need/benefit for the castor oil though. (not to be confused with Castrol) It does clear up hagfish mucus... 1 Quote
rallyace Posted January 9, 2022 Report Posted January 9, 2022 I should have made a bowl of popcorn and grabbed a beer from the refrigerator before starting to read this string???? 1 Quote
greg g Posted January 9, 2022 Report Posted January 9, 2022 Time for the vintage engine cocktail again?. Quote
bartenderfloyd Posted January 9, 2022 Report Posted January 9, 2022 Engine rebuilt in 2012. I'm using 10w-30 synthetic. No issues. Quote
harmony Posted January 9, 2022 Report Posted January 9, 2022 18 hours ago, Sniper said: I use whatever 10w30 oil I find a decent price on, last time it was Castrol GTX. Based on the general hackery I have found in this car I can pretty much guarantee whomever owned it before put whatever oil they found in it. If sludge was going to be an issue it would have already happened for me. Zinc issues are more applicable as valve spring pressures increase, that's pretty much an non issue for the weak valve springs our engines have. It doesn't hurt though. I agree with sniper 10W30. Whatever is on sale and at CTC ( Canadian Tire) often you will save up to 30% and sometimes 40% on a 5 litre jug. I stock up on it every time it comes on sale, whatever brand. Because I change my oil every 1000 miles. 1 Quote
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