kencombs's post in Thread Sealant for Fuel Line Fittings was marked as the answer
To echo and maybe clarify, compression and flares do not seal on the threads so no sealant needed. NPT seals on the thread so use sealant if needed. But, judiciously so that none is allowed to enter the fittings opening. I try not to have any on the first one or two threads.
kencombs's post in Drive Train Vibration was marked as the answer
30mph is a very low speed for a driveshaft vibration, at least in my experience. To help isolate it I'd try these things.
1. put the rear end on stands so that it is supported by the springs, not hanging.
Remove the rear wheels.
Run the car in gear up to and past 30 and see what you feel.
Any vibration would point to the driveshaft, but not necessarily balance. Bad ujoints, a ball and trunion whose trunion is not centered, or even just dry joints can cause it.
If not vibration at this point put the wheels on and repeat.
If that doesn't reveal and issue, see if you can find a front end shop with one of the old on the car balancers. They will reveal exactly which corner is causing the shake.
Slightly bent wheel, tires out of round or otherwise distorted, brake drum out of round etc will all show up with that test.
kencombs's post in Questions about ballast resistor on 12v negative ground conversion. was marked as the answer
I would suggest a new coil, just because. If you're using points, a coil from a Mopar of 12v vintage along with a resistor and start bypass wiring would be best. Yes, one can get a coil designed to run on 12v, and no they don't have an internal resister (with very few exceptions from the 50s) but are wound with wire that provides the desired resistance. But, if you do that the starting voltage will be lower than a coil intended to be used with a resistor. The resistor goes in the switch to coil feed wire.
Edit to add: I'll change my recommendation for coil and resistor. Use 50/60s GM as they are more readily available and work fine. And back in the day I saw many more Mopar resistors fail than other brands. Don't know why, just my experience.
kencombs's post in Rear axle disassembly was marked as the answer
These and the famous Ford 8 and 9 inch are much superior, IMHO, to the 'modern' ones. At least from a mechanics perspective as adjusting bearings is a snap compared to case spreaders and shims on the 'modern' versions. Also, setting up gear depth and backlash is a bench job, not an under the car process. I knew a lot of guys back in the day that had a weekend center section and a weekday version. 4.11s or 4.56s at the strip and 3.08 or 3.23 for the highway. Most could swap in 30-40 minutes.
More common repair for me was axle bearings. No draining lube to pull the axles. 4 bolts, pop it out, press bearing done.
kencombs's post in Chrysler Division? was marked as the answer
We owned a business building that was built in 1917. About 15k sqft, 2story brick, concrete roof. It was renovated in the 50s and AC was added. two huge, watercooled, 460v3ph Chrysler Airtemp units. When we bought it in 97 it had been vacant for 23 years and the water cooling towers on the roof were beyond saving so it got new air/air air conditioners. But before removing the old ones, I connected the power and started the compressors with pressure gauges attached. They ran flawlessly! Quiet and smooth. Chrysler built great stuff, even commercial AC. If the renovation budget had allowed I would have found a way to keep them, but funds were tight so I took the cheaper route.
kencombs's post in To balance or not.... driveshaft was marked as the answer
I made up a temporary shaft years ago when I swapped a Mustang V6 with C4 into my little Dodge D50. Intended to use it to test drive and debug, then get a real shaft made by a real shop. Worked so well, I never got around to the better one. So my answer is obviously, run it 'til there's a good reason not too.
kencombs's post in Remove drum attached to tire method was marked as the answer
---All the sample pics and video I saw posted here are describing front brake work. And, yes, it can be a time saver to remove dust cover, cotter key and nut to pull the wheel/tire and hub as a unit. No other reason that I know of. The note about marking the lug and wheel position is to preserve balance in case it was balanced as a unit, common with the old on car balancers.
And, the only time I've seen reference to anything similar on the rear is a kluge used by those without the puller. Loosen the nuts as far as possible and use the tire and wheel assembly as sort of a slide hammer to pull the hub off the axle taper.