kencombs's post in Chrysler Division? was marked as the answer
We owned a business building that was built in 1917. About 15k sqft, 2story brick, concrete roof. It was renovated in the 50s and AC was added. two huge, watercooled, 460v3ph Chrysler Airtemp units. When we bought it in 97 it had been vacant for 23 years and the water cooling towers on the roof were beyond saving so it got new air/air air conditioners. But before removing the old ones, I connected the power and started the compressors with pressure gauges attached. They ran flawlessly! Quiet and smooth. Chrysler built great stuff, even commercial AC. If the renovation budget had allowed I would have found a way to keep them, but funds were tight so I took the cheaper route.
kencombs's post in To balance or not.... driveshaft was marked as the answer
I made up a temporary shaft years ago when I swapped a Mustang V6 with C4 into my little Dodge D50. Intended to use it to test drive and debug, then get a real shaft made by a real shop. Worked so well, I never got around to the better one. So my answer is obviously, run it 'til there's a good reason not too.
kencombs's post in Remove drum attached to tire method was marked as the answer
---All the sample pics and video I saw posted here are describing front brake work. And, yes, it can be a time saver to remove dust cover, cotter key and nut to pull the wheel/tire and hub as a unit. No other reason that I know of. The note about marking the lug and wheel position is to preserve balance in case it was balanced as a unit, common with the old on car balancers.
And, the only time I've seen reference to anything similar on the rear is a kluge used by those without the puller. Loosen the nuts as far as possible and use the tire and wheel assembly as sort of a slide hammer to pull the hub off the axle taper.