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About rallyace

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands
  • Birthday 02/02/1951

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Central New York
  • Interests
    Old cars. Road Rally. Golf. Travel.
  • My Project Cars
    51 Plymouth Cambridge

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Retired and need a hobby
  • Occupation
    Professional wife irritator


  • Location
    Near Syracuse NY
  • Interests
    Cars, rally, golf, vegging out.

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1,212 profile views
  1. Ditto on the air hammer method of setting the new plug. I took an old chisel tip, rounded it off on the grinder and two quick zaps with the air hammer it was set. It is well worth the time to carefully clean the hole in the block and I always apply a coat of shellac based gasket sealer to the block seating surfaces before setting welsh plugs.
  2. I pulled the oil pan and inspected all of the bearings. All are good. It is a recent rebuild so I know the engine well. I have been through all of the normal stuff like checking valve clearances, pulling one plug at a time, etc and nothing seems to stop it. My next suspect is the engine mounts and see if the engine is showing excessive motion under load.
  3. Underdash wiring can be exposed to chafing. It also requires wiring that is easy to bend. I would go with the GXL. It should be easy to bend and be sure to protect it as much as possible to prevent chafing. As far as connectors, I have this thing about soldered connections and heat shrink tubing. I do not trust crimp on connectors.
  4. I have confirmed it is not internal to the engine. Valve clearances are in spec (it was the first thing I checked). The driveshaft has been checked and it is fine. It was professionally built last year with Spicer U-joints. I have tried to record the noise but have not been able to get a clear recording. Once upon a time I read something about motor mounts causing noises. Could it be this?
  5. I have a 51 Plymouth with a 218 engine and R10 OD transmission. At the end of last season I started to hear a knocking/tapping noise when the engine was under load, it was most obvious when under load in 3rd gear and it made no difference if the OD was engaged or disengaged. The frequency of the knocking noise followed engine RPMs. At first I thought it was a bearing but after pulling the oil pan and inspecting all of the bearings, all were in spec and no bearing damage was detected. I then started looking at the exhaust gasket thinking that the noise could be a leaking gasket. I pulled the ma
  6. The electronic 535 flashers will not work properly with a positive ground car. They are designed for a negative ground car. This is only an issue with the dash indicator (P terminal on the flasher) as it presents a positive voltage due to a diode inside the flasher.
  7. If you go double u-joint, one at each end of the center shaft (which is also known as a single cardan shaft), offset the yokes on the center shaft by 90 degrees. It makes for a smoother operation.
  8. Take the time to adjust it according to the manual. Use your feeler gauges as once it is properly adjusted it is effective and will not need to be readjusted for many years.
  9. I went the overdrive route. It took me two years to find a good OD unit at a fair price and near enough so I could see it and check it out before consummating the sale. In my case it was a very good unit and only needed to have the hypoid oil flushed out and a couple of seals needed replacement. A stock driveshaft will work with an OD transmission swap. I did have a new driveshaft with standard Spicer universal joints built by a local truck driveline shop.
  10. Regarding float level. Today's fuels are less dense than the fuels of 70 years ago. You will need to set the float slightly lower than spec to gain enough float pressure to close the needle valve.
  11. Having been a British car guy before getting into Mopars, this thread is like reading about how horrible the SU carburetors are. It is all in how how you take the time to understand them and make sure they are properly set up. I rebuilt SU carbs according to the book and, when you make sure the shafts are properly bushed and the jets are correct and properly centered they work flawlessly. My BB experience is limited but when I did rebuild mine I made sure the shafts were not worn, the cover and body were flat and true, and I set the float lower than spec to compensate for today's fuels which
  12. For bolts going through the water jackets I use a Rectorseal #5, one of the best pipe dopes on the market. It is designed for both water and steam service so it can easily handle the temperatures and does a great job of protecting the threads.
  13. Flat head Mopar engines are long stroke engines for lots of low end torque and they have hefty flywheels so getting it to run smooth is not all that difficult. Keith and South have pointed out the things to look at. Parts are readily available from places like Andy Bernbaum, Roberts, and Mopar Pro. You can still find a lot of parts through NAPA, O'Reillys and Rock Auto. You are in the right place to get good, solid advice. This forum has a lot of folks with decades of experience with these old cars. Good luck and keep asking questions. The only dumb question is the one you did not ask.
  14. Phosphoric acid is what makes Coca Cola such a good rust remover.
  15. Water pumps on cars are low pressure high flow pumps. As was mentioned earlier, someone saw 10 PSI when they checked (as an engineer, that seems high to me). The pressure is not really expected to be very high as the system only has to overcome the flow resistance in the cooling system. Cooling an engine needs flow not pressure. I would suspect that the pump would be in the range of 6-10 gpm and a couple of feet of head at normal running speed.
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