kencombs

There are guys here that know a lot more detail than I, but AFAIK, all distributors for 218/230 engines will work. There may be differences in internal parts and/or timing curves but physical fitment is all inclusive. ie; it should run with any distributor that fits. Some have no vacuum advance (trucks or industrial usually), some have no mechanical advance (welder or air compressor power units), but they fit. My old Hollander seems to confirm that. If it were mine, I'd just get it to run and modify weights, springs and vacuum to arrive at the advance tha

If the sealing surfaces of the hose fitting and wheel cylinder are perfectly square to the threads, they will usually seal. But I wouldn't want to be on the quality of the machining on a part of unknown national origin (or known origin for that matter).

True, but a lot of people use an acid wash that prevents rust from forming while in the process of finishing body work. Lots cheaper than primer. I have some parts in the shop that were treated with PickleX20 years ago. Kept dry, but very humid it times and still no rust.

‘Normal’ primers will let water pass thru and absorb water. Epoxies do not. Those normal primers are usually primer / surfaces that build a fair thickness intended to be sanded level to flatten the surface. Epoxies are intended to adhere really well to metal or filler below, seal moisture out and also bond with the following primer or paint coats. IME it is not necessary to buy the premium priced brands to get epoxy benefits. I use Kirker with good results. There are others with similar pricing that work well. just be sure that if you use an acidic metal prep that your chose

I keep mine current. No point in not fixing whatever the have fixed in each release. I just wait a week or so to get 'oopsies' fixed.

I think I finally found the culprit. Duck Duck Go privacy extension. When it is disabled there is no longer a delay when I open the page.

There are lots of schools of thought on primer and filler. IMO and IME quality filler over bare metal is fine. Was done that way for years. But, if you prime first, use only epoxy as I know of no manufacturer that recommends any other. There have been several tests done that show filler bonds best to metal, but epoxy works if done correctly. Edit to add: If one is applying to bare metal, it should be sealed with primer (preferably epoxy) as soon as shaping is finished. That's because filler does absorb water and if allowed to do so before covering the metal underneath will

How big is the puddle on the floor? That leak looks like an older, slow leak to me. How much oil is on the dipstick? Let's don't jump to a conclusion before checking. The engine quitting may or may not be due to the leak. The leak itself could be as simple as a loose fitting. Cracked line or damaged sealing surfaces are also possible. If it is empty of oil, I'd pull the pan as suggested.

I had an uncle that could kill a 216/236 Chevy with the old bare plugs wires with his hands. He'd spread his fingers to span 4-6 with the left and 1-3 with his right. Lay hands on it and it died. And what's amazing, he could do that without jumping! Big hands and iron nerves.

that works, but since the sides have points that are intended to penetrate the insulation, they often fall off when removed, if not crimped in place. I did it with a pair of old pliers with a recess ground into the jaws for years before acquiring a tool. Now the tool is gone and I can't find the old pliers.

As long as your pulley is neutral balanced, it will be fine. And if it made for Mopar flathead it is neutral balanced.

There are lots of type around. I like this one, and will have to buy it as my old one never came home from the last time I loaned it. I'll never learn. https://www.ebay.com/itm/363332539266?hash=item54984e9382:g:mTIAAOSwG4xgWvG5

If you have a shop press that would be my choice to remove the bend. After all it was bent to begin with using the screws, so a tool can remove the bend. Put as shim of some sort under the places that touch the body and slowly push it level. It will take more than one attempt as it will spring back a little when the pressure is removed. I've even used a little heat from a propane torch to help it along. A little lapping later would be OK, but it's better to rebend than cut some off, IMHO. A good bench vise works too, just not as precise.

And, the bonding surface must be roughened and very clean. The better brands are also expensive to use and require a special dispenser. Also, it is not intended to be covered with body filler so any 'squish out' must be ground off. It works and lasts well. My '97 F150 has a bonded roof from the factory. For most jobs, small rust patch for instance, a mig welder is cheaper and faster. But for some panel bonding, like really long seams or door skins, the glue is best.

Depends on the mix. Too much diesel and it won't run. Buddy of mine in HS 'borrowed' some diesel from a construction site in his 49 Plymouth. He got about a mile or so before it started smoking badly then died. I towed him home the next day and he spent the day draining, flushing and refilling w/gas.