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kencombs

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kencombs last won the day on December 22 2019

kencombs had the most liked content!

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About kencombs

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands
  • Birthday 02/11/1943

Contact Methods

  • Yahoo
    antiquesetc@sbcglobal.net
  • Occupation
    ret

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    claremore, ok
  • Interests
    old trucks obviously, any 30/40/50 vehicle. Woodworking, welding, painting etc.
  • My Project Cars
    56 1/2T

Converted

  • Location
    claremore ok
  • Interests
    old cars and woodworking

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  1. even when you do things the right way, things can go wrong. Many years ago I was giving a guy a jump from my 61Valiant. Brand new battery too. Put the jumper cables on without the car running, ground last. Got in the Valiant to start it. First clank of the little gear drive starter engaging and BOOM, top of the battery blew off!. Took a week to get the acid washed off and fully neutralized.
  2. Exactly. Look carefully at the firing order and note the piston position, which is related to camshaft lobe postion. It helps to write it out. or just accept it.
  3. The leak from the throttle area is just a symptom of the real problem. There should be no liquid gasoline in that area, it should already be atomized at that point. Most likely the needle and seat is not sealing well, the float is improperly adjusted or defective. If it only leaks after running at normal temp or above then shut down, it may be boiling fuel in the bowl. Just to be clear, changing the throttle base will not fix the problem as it is above that part.
  4. Some folks do. I don’t. Shop manual specifically forbids.
  5. After rereading this, it seems this is only for a safety check. If that is a state inspection requirement that is one thing. But, if it just something he wants to do, maybe just rethink the whole thing. Oklahoma used to have an inspection requirement on the books that required removal of the drums to verify lining thickness. And, the price was capped at a state-mandated fee. One that would assure every inspection station would lose money on every one. That led to lots of steps skipped, stickers issued for uninspected and/or defective vehicles. And that led to suspension of i
  6. It sounds like your mechanic has no experience with the type of rear axle/hub/drum used on your Mopar. I'd strongly recommend finding one that does.
  7. Bolts too? Those are hard to find locally.
  8. If possible have your support directly under the spindle. Like a big socket under the pin on a solid stand. Heat is your friend, but smoking grease isn't much heat. Probably under 300. It needs to be really hot to help. And, if possible go at it with an air hammer, the bigger the better as the little cheap ones don't hit all that hard. Patience and a bucket full of special words are needed here.
  9. Maybe you've done this already, but be sure the axle/spindle are supported solidly to the floor when hitting it. Otherwise spring bounce will dissipate much of the hammer's force. On another note, a standard c-clamp is inadequate for this job. The threads are too coarse and don't generate enough mechanical advantage. The snap-on 'clamp' pic is really a ball joint press designed for such work. Note the large diameter screw and fine threads. That type of 'clamp' is also made from much stronger material. I have a 20t shop press, and even that is at it's limit on some
  10. Rock auto list just one tie rod end and doesn't specify what 'truck' it fits. So it probably is a 1/2t item. Bigger may be harder to find.
  11. Drill Doctor works. Yeah, I get the 'plastic-ness', don't like it either but it works. I've got the 3/4" version. Never sharpen anything under 1/4 though, just not worth it. The diamond wheel inside the DD seems to last forever. Not like having to dress a normal stone.
  12. Well, in some circumstances it can be used. In my case I'll be using a scavenged GM fuel tank with an internal pump intended for throttle body fuel injection. So, it's output pressure would overwhelm a float and needle valve in the carb. It needs a regulator and the best regulators have a return line. Since the pump is in the tank, the regulator and very short return line will be near the tank. I chose this route due to the fact that I have the tank, the pump is a unit that is available just about anywhere off the shelf and I think it will work. I'll know on that last sometime
  13. Great suggestion. And one I don't follow often enough. Especially hearing protection. I wear hearing aids due to a lot ofpast factors, noise being one of them. And nitrile gloves as none of the components used in parts cleaning, paint or other solvents are safe for the human body . Eye protection goes without saying. I've taken a couple of trips to the emergency room in the past due to lapses in that area.
  14. Yes, hey Siri works to call any number in your contacts. And, in my case the phone links to my hearing aids. My phone is in my pocket almost all the time as I use it to access repair and parts info on the web when in the shop .
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