kencombs

Leakdown testing can help evaluate the condition of rings and valves. Oil pressure will provid some indicaiton of bearing condition, but not with any real accuracy. Best to pull the pan and look.

That video of him hitting upward with a 4 lb hammer made me laugh. First of all, that was a newish install, not a 50 year old car/truck. Then he had it on a lift with lots of room to swing. And, how in the heck can one swing a heavy hammer upward with any great force? I did, hundreds of times using a little 32oz framing hammer , and had the torn elbow tendon to show for it. In my world, on a creeper, laying on my back that is not a tip, that's a recipe for frustration. Two hammer method, swinging horizontally , maybe, otherwise I'll grab my pickle fork in an air hammer every time!

As I mentioned, it will likely destroy the seal. The type I showed when attached to an air hammer makes quick work of it and sometimes even saves the seal. I don't think I ever saw Dad use a puller for those, or ball joints. Just hold a heavy hammer on one side and smack the other, hard! I can do that but finding space to hold and swing two hammers is hard on some vehicles. That and laying on a creeper and handle two hammers is not nearly as easy as it was 50-60years ago.

If you have an air compressor, I highly recommend a good air hammer and one of these: The tool used in an air hammer works much better than the manual end/adapter. But, if you have no air compressor and hammer it will work by prying and hammering. Place it between the parts, drive in tightly and pry. If it is still stuck, smack the arm end with the hammer while prying. It will ruin the seal but they probably need replacement anyway. The tool with the air hammer adapter works much better than

Just guessing here, but are you referring to a shrinking disk used for bodywork? If so, search with that name and you'll get a lot of hits.

My less-than-semi educated opinion agrees with this. A picture of the gears in the second one, take from the top pointing down, would allow one to actually count the possible speeds.

I've also wondered why class 8 trucks still use drums for the most part. Especially since disk are much cheaper to make and install, which is a large reason they are used almost exclusively in cars and light trucks. better and cheaper, why not change? Maybe it is the air application that is unique? Fuel injection? so much better than a carb there is no reason not to change, except in my case, cost. I have a Kohler powered project ZTR. About ready to start up on a new short block. Sure hope the FI is good, as the software to diagnose it costs more than the short block!

Appreciate everyone's input. Just for sake of discussion, why do we believe disks are inherently better than big chrysler drums in daily use? My daily driver is a 13 Tundra with huge disks on all four corners. Stopping power is impressive even loaded or towing it just stops straight and quick. But, I suspect it would stop very well with those big wide tires, non-servo drums (like 50s big Mopars), antilock features and booster. IOW, how much of the performance is solely due to disks? IMO, the only thing drums can't so well is stop from high speed more than once in a short time. Heat generated warps the drums and greatly reduces the actual surface in contact with the shoes. Disks are inherently linear in stopping power produced vs input pressure. Makes them easier to control lockup, either manually or with computer controlled antiskid and stability software. But the non-servo drum systems I specified above are very good in that respect also. I'll likely wind up with disks, but mostly because the parts are easier to source compared to a 55'56 Chrysler donor.

Excellent point. I've been into old garden tractors, well small tractors in general for a long time. Small diesels from Kubota, Yanmar, JD are really sensitive to that. My little JD 455 with a Yanmar diesel will mow all day long in 95+ temps with no problem, IF the radiator is spotlessly clean on the outside. Let a film of dust accumulate, which happens quickly in hot dry weather when mowing, and it will overheat. Clean the screen and fins and it's fine. And the honeycomb radiators on old Mopars seem to be more vulnerable to this that the more open designs. Better at heat transfer, but the design does trap 'stuff' BTW, if you haven't seen this video, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cxt6EN-39Ck it's really interesting. I had no idea that honeycomb cores were still being made.

ISO32 hydraulic fluid is very close to 10W engine oil.

I'm still planning my 56 1/2t project. Engine and trans(A833 OD) almost done, just need to complete the full flow filter install and carb (2bbl) adapter. Then I'll start the teardown. But, brakes are still undecided. I had planned an Explorer disc conversion, home brew. For my use disks are not really necessary but I really would like better brakes. In the distant past I upgraded a 58 Ford F100 to 12" Chrysler front brakes. Did that after finding that the hemi and cast iron torqueflite made the truck really squirrely in a hard/panic stop. Not enough front and too much rear brake. So, I adapted the brakes from the same car that donated engine, 56 Chrysler. Worked out really well. The mod was suprisingly easy, The outer bearing was the same, the inner 1/16" smaller. So I turned the spindles' inner race area down and added a spacer between the backing plate and the spindle to position the shoes on the drum. Braking was well balanced and plenty of it. Any thoughts or experience doing this on a B C series? Or should I just go to disks? Maybe a set of big drums and other parts might be available from someone who has done the disk thing edit to add: I looked at Rockauto and it looks like a New Yorker's bearings may even be the same as the B trucks.

Depends on how much you really want one. I'm doing a fullflow filter conversion on my 230. The same mod could be used for a cooler only or in conjunction with a filter install. This is not my pic but from a thread here :https://p15-d24.com/topic/43897-time-for-an-overhaul/#comments Looked like a good setup so I borrowed the idea. What you can't see in the pic is a small cup plug driven into the oil passage so that it stops between the two drilled and tapped holes. I've got that done and the filter mounting bracket made. Next is making up the lines.

Some Volvos have a similar OD that can be adapted in that same fashion. Or, if your desire is great and your pockets deep enough there's always the Hone-O-Drive. https://www.ebay.ca/itm/HONE-O-DRIVE-Overdrive-Baldwin-Motion-Yenko-L88-ZL1-Shelby-Mustang-Comaro-K-Code/233646184478?hash=item366665d81e:g:docAAOSwR9BfEi-i

I used that seal on my 56 block, but it has yet to be installed. The block seal area was changed sometime in the 50s, 56 or slightly earlier to use this type. I don't think it will fit earlier blocks. Even in a block machined for this type, I don't think changing the upper half would be possible. Maybe, if the mains were all loosened , the transmission pulled back enough to let the crank drop somewhat, there may be enough room to roll it out. There is a lot of contact area, rubber seal to cast iron and it would be hard to push or roll out. The one in your video is much smaller in cross section and only contacts the block on two narrow sides and has a steel core to push/pull on.

The oil pressure sender location would be my choice.