kencombs

Kits like this make a lot of sense to me. Similar kit will be used on my 56 PU. Not the greatest quality I'm sure, but a lot of parts for the money. https://www.ebay.com/itm/universal-wire-harness-kit-For-Car-Hot-Rod-Street-Rod-XL-12-Circuit-Wires/133307013302?hash=item1f09b798b6:g:sRgAAOSwe2JeIR5a Add relays if needed/wanted either near the fuses or load as desired.

Assuming that these 'are 'standard' aluminum pop rivets with a through hole after 'popping', you may be able to tap for a small screw. A drop of Loctite, screw the little plug in place. The only question is, if the rivet body will not rotate when the tap is inserted. Sometimes they break the pin before expanding really tightly.

IMO, thread sealer on all head, water pump and manifold bolts . 'cause most enter the water jacket and it's just easier to do all of them that keep track. Also provides even torque measurement. Flywheel gets blue locktite. Probably not needed as it didn't exist 'back then', but they get it anyway. Antisieze only on exhaust pipe to manifold and the four bolts that hold the manifolds together.

If so, swapping in a new 11" set would be an easy fix. And, you don't have to remove those darned flywheel/crank bolts!

I think I'd start by disconnecting the linkages and isolate the roughness. Could be in the spindles or gearbox. Then fix the cause. Of course the first step would be filling the steering with the right lube and greasing everything. That may fix it, if not on to diagnostics.

And don't forget if going with a Mopar trans, there are factory mounting plates for later trans to 230 blocks used in a lot of industrial stuff, airport tugs etc. They show up on ebay every so often. If one just wanted an auto for convenience, with not much interest in acceleration, there's always the Powerflite. Good solid trans, fairly light weight and bolts on. Two speeds only, but very good torque multiplication in the converter.

I just checked my old Hollander. It appears that all flywheels from that era have the same tooth count. Lots of interchangeability, 6 to 8, truck to car, 10 and 11 inch. Some flywheels are drilled for multiple sizes also. Have you checked yours for another set of mounting holes?

If it gets past the valves, it will be in either the intake or exhaust manifold. If exhaust, it will just make it's way out of the muffler and tailpipe. At worst, lots of smoke. If intake, also lots of smoke as all of it will be burned if/when the engine starts. With no plugs, nothing will happen, except for making a mess. With plugs, no mess, also no danger of hydro lock IF the fluid isn't in any cylinder.

Crate motor should have a warranty that covers oil leaks from factory installed seals. IMO, you don't have an oil problem, you have a seal problem. The seal conditioners sometimes work on older seals that have hardened. Most of them have some ingredient that attacks rubber and softens it. Probably would do the same to a new, soft seal. Just not sure what the results are. Back in the day, brake fluid was the 'seal fix' of choice of some mechanics.

In addition to the last two posts, the fact that you disconnected the ammeter does not prove it to be at fault. It was really common to feed other loads off the ammeter, especially aftermarket doodads. So there may be an added load somewhere. It would be really helpful for you to draw out the wiring as it exists, and compare to a stock drawing. I'd almost bet that the problem would become clear once you commit the 'as built' to paper (or computer screen). A true short to ground would result in hot wire and smoke, so my money is on a hidden load. Or, I'm still not clear on what type of alternator installation you have. One wire, three wire, diode or light bulb to prevent back-feed or???

: Almost stock flattie. Manifold and block ports gasket matched and ports cleaned up a bit. Head milled a bunch, then the chamber modified around the valve and spark plug area. Wound up at about 8.9: 1 ratio. Stock intake modified to accept a small two barrel Carter BB2 originally on a 273 V8.

Easiest solution would be to have a rebuilder install high pressure springs and a high friction lining. But , that comes a cost. I had a Pontiac with a really HD setup. Couldn't set a long red light with the clutch down! Heavy as heck on the pedal, but didn't slip. There are also 11" clutches/flywheels. I think I have one left from my project,

I wrestled with that decision and ultimately it came down to the A833 I'm using. #2 selection was a non-electronic version of the A500. Essentially an A904 with OD added. 518 was third choice. Some version of an OD was mandatory in my mind as I wanted to retain the ability to pull a trailer (lower rear gears) and have good acceleration in traffic yet cruise at a lower rpm. The 500 smaller, lighter, uses slightly less HP to operate and is strong enough for my use. If I needed a stronger auto it would have been the 518. In the end, I decided to go with a manual and chose the A833 over the more popular T5. Tough trans and it's Mopar.

Can you clarify the wiring you have installed? I seem to be missing something in the design. What type of alternator and external VR do you have? Do you have an ammeter or indicator light? Blocking diode? I agree with Sam, a relay isn't needed except to cover up some other issue. Fix the root cause, don't complicate the installation would be my advice.

Yep, traces of rust left in the bore and take a look at the pitting on the intake valves. Surely had water in it at some time, for a fairly long time I'd guess. But, doesn't mean it's not a viable core, if the price right. As to the piston markings, I've seen a lot of overhauls done and done some myself where the cylinders were OK, but a piston or two had broken or worn ring lands . In my 230 that just got put back together it had 2 #3 rods on a set of .060 pistons. Old rebuild with a bad rod so they used one from another engine. Common in the rebuilder world. Just wish they had remarked it. Fortunately I have a habit of punch marking them anyway.