kencombs

If one can believe the head and block are a matched pair, it is a 251 out of a Chrysler. Year unimportant.

So says every manual I've seen since I started working on these things in 1960. No lube of any kind on mine, ever. edit: actually not every manual mentions it. Some are silent on the subject, but those that do discuss it have forbidden lube in that spot.

I believe any 218 or 230 block will work. There are two heads for external or internal coolant thermostat bypass, but either will work with its matching block. The crankshaft for the fluid drive units use 8 bolts. Not all are drilled for all 8 so you will need to check that. I'll dig into my old Hollander and if I find more info I'll post a followup. I'm using a '56 Plymouth 230 in my 56 Dodge PU and the Plymouth has an 8 bolt crank flange, so they are not exclusive to fluid drives. BTW, my truck currently has a 50 plymouth 218, so the interchange is very broad.

' That sounds more reasonable. I noticed that the oil filler cap is still on the tube. VERY unlikely that there was a crankcase explosion that didn't blow that off yet damaged the cast iron block. Much more likely that a rod became a hammer due to another failure.

Just to reinforce the above: The shop manual is explicit, no lube on the taper. The friction of that fit is the major player in preventing slipping/spinning of the hub on the axle. Without that, the key would carry all the load and likely fail.

And the R10 can be driven as a 5 spd if desired. 2nd and 2nd OD are really useful in traffic.

Since it has been a problem before, I'd suspect someone in the past removed the oil pump and didn't index it correctly.

As far as the wiring goes, Painless has an excellent reputation. If he/she did worksmanlike work installing it that part should be OK. They provide harnesses for original or voltage conversion as well as generator or alternator. Ignition type is independent of the wiring harness for the most part, with some exceptions.

Way back in the 60s/70s I had access to a 50 ton press, Sunnen pin hone, valve seat machine and valve refacer in the back of a parts store that had stopped doing such work. I bought all my parts there and they let me use the machines whenever I needed them. Boy, I miss having that quality of stuff at my disposal. I have a press and valve stuff, but nothing like the quality they had. The hone made king pins a quick and easy job. Not necessarily better than a reamer, but certainly faster.

Unless you're really lucky the PVC won't be exactly the right size. But, you can cut a slot out of the pipe and resize it with a hose clamp or two until it fits the sleeve OD and rest on the flange. If you get really lucky the axle has been kept well lubed and you won't need them. Since axles turn so much slower that the other parts that normally need sleeving, maybe they won't be worn.

Pics look normal to me. Remember, if the tires are not pointed straight ahead the angle will change due to the king pin inclination angle Camber has very little influence in how a car/truck feels when driving. Wears tires badly if way out, but drives straight. Don't have any pics of the shims but a web search should turn up lots of them. Simple, just a piece of metal, thinner on one end than the other. It's placed between the spring and axle. Thick end to the front tilts king pin back, if axle on top of the spring. Obviously, if reversed the king pin tilts the oth

Exactly. Since diesel engines have no intake vacuum, diesel light trucks use an alternator with a vacuum pump mounted on the back to provide vacuum for the brake booster. Sort of like the 50 Mopar and GM power steering.

There are electric vacuum pumps available. Also pumps that attach to the back of an alternator. Changing to a 12 v alternator to run vacuum wipers seems a bit much though! Addition of a fairly large storage tank, with a check valve, will help a lot for short burst of acceleration, but not long sustained high load, low vacuum circumstances. Lots of older cars used them. A piece of PVC pipe and a couple of end caps will work.

You're absolutely correct. My Dad owned a salvage for 30 years and I had the advantages that came from that. Your description sort of reinforces my view. All those mods, done in your 'spare' time require the car you'd like to be driving to be laid up for a while. How long a while depends on your 'spare' time, and cash. A few mods on a stocker can be done in a few hours and the car can be driven in between projects. There is a place for both types. One can review the completed insurance auctions for donor pricing and assess their skills as related to adapting the parts and m

Yeah, bang for the buck is low, but still a lot cheaper and faster than a late model electronic engine/trans upgrade, IF you don't have to buy new parts. New manifolds, carbs and esp headers are spendy. I was reading another swap tale, started simple but last I read, it is a late hemi, trans, computer, harness AND full rear suspension cradle. Talk about project creep!