kencombs

3 spd w/fluid coupling = Fluid Drive Gyro Matic = M6 trans (2 spd trans with 2spd OD integral) behind a fluid coupling.

You probably won't find a automotive resistor of the correct value. I'd probably just measure the current draw of the original coil on the 8v system and calculate the resistance needed to drop it to 6v. Ohms law and all that. At a guess, maybe two wire wound resistors from a 60s GM or Ford in parallel may be close. They drop 12v to about 8 or so and two in parallel would halve the resistance. But I really don't remember the current draw of the 12v system so can't do the math, to many unknowns

It gets converted to Iron Phosphate (FePo4). So the rust (FeO2) becomes FePo4 due to the interaction and 'stealing a couple of O atoms from the converter. A good coating of it seals the underlying steel preventing further rusting. But, the original rust must not have any loose areas lest they break loose, crack and breech that seal. Same thing the expensive moisture cured coatings do, except they are more durable. I choose to use the Ospho which is partially phosphoric acid, which provides the Phosphate part if the formula and strengthen the sealing part with a liberal coat of epoxy primer. Epoxy sticks to anything, and everything will stick to epoxy making a good choice both as a rust sealer and underlayment for filler primer.

Yes, merging like that is called zipper merge and works well if everyone remembers and obeys the 'every other car in the zipper'. But there's always one, or more, that need to be first. I've driven through 15 states or so in the last year and most of them had similar signs in construction zones. Makes sense a as all available lanes are used as long as possible which in theory speeds traffic flow. OK is one of those states that doesn't encourage passing the white walkway at intersections until your path is clear for a left turn. No marking, don't enter the cross traffic lanes, lest you be caught blocking them when the light changes.

Reasonable is a really open ended term ya know. I had a reasonable estimate in my head for my pu. About x I thought. I’m at 2x, cost and time. Still ‘reasonable’ as my definition has changed.

I think it depends on what your goal is. In my case, I removed almost all the visible rust with rust and paint stripping disks on a 4.5" grinder. So I only needed the converter to deal will little bits in pits or sheet metal folds, like at fender reinforcements and door skins. For that I used Ospho. I've used Picklex 20 which is really good, but come at a premium cost! That was followed with a quick hit with 80 grit and epoxy primer. In the door skin and fender lap areas the primer was literally poured in as I had the parts on a table so I could roll it around to get it into every nook and cranny. I don't trust any rust converter to work if the rust hasn't been removed first to a great degree. Sanding, grinding, stripper disk, acid or something needs to get to the metal. Because, the primer bonds to the converter, the converter supposedly bonds the converted outer layer of rust to the substrate. And in all the tests I've done and seen online there is always red rust between the metal and the black converted layer. If the rust de-bonds from the metal, the 'sandwich' will eventually fail, IMHO. Just don't trust that.

Great looking car! I see no rust or dents. Even the chrome looks decent. Should be a reasonably cheap redo. That old lacquer paint is probably spider webbed but doesn't show in the pics. FYI, I used some of the new fiber paint/rust stripping disks on my 4.5" grinder to strip my pickup. Highly recommended. Much better than sandpaper. Or, that nasty liquid stripper method. About that 'reasonably cheap' comment above. I was reading a discussion of upholstery costs on another board and was shocked at the going rates in some areas. I may never do a sedan interior again!

Same thing I found on my 56. . My original plan was seam sealer, but Now it looks like the best thing easily available is the foil backed tar-like flashing materials. Just cut a strip and stick the sticky side to the fender, punch the bolt holes and install.

I think the original is not knurled because they are retained by a 'crimp', for want of a better word, around the hub hole. I just buy a replacement with knurling and drill or ream the hole to match. The last ones I bought were from a trailer parts store.

I'm not sure on early cabs, but my 56 has metal holders that retain a felt seal around the pedal shaft. At least it did until I removed all that for '60 suspended pedals.

Maybe it's just me, but removing the hinge pins would be my last choice. Just unbolt the hinges. Yeah, I know, then you have to adjust the door, but the odds are that will need to be done anyway.

My only guess is oil level in the transmission may be low. I worked on one way back in the early 60s that did something similar and it had the wrong oil and low level.

They come in several sizes 3/16, 1/4 and 3/8 OD with about a half dozen heads that I've found, ranging from 31/32" to close to 1.5". After looking at them closer I think an appropriately sized oval head screw and a small fender washer could be made to work. Dimple the washer to provide a seat for the screw head. And those are available in stainless too. That would solve another issue. I plan to paint the bed and fenders before installation. Then the screw heads would need to be painted separately or just use stainless bare.

If that is a 5/16 hose barb the other end looks like a 1/8NPT fitting. It will measure about 5/16 OD, but the pipe size is 1/8. The tank looks like 1/4" pipe female.

The only really tricky part of the differential is setting the pinion depth. Once that is done the rest can be handled with a dial indicator and some sticky grease to check the tooth engagement pattern. I don't recall the older units using a crush sleeve, just selective spacers to set pinion preload as well as depth. I think my old Motors manual covers it.