kencombs

Here are the measuring instructions from the SKF site. Take the results to the SKF product list and find the sleeve PN. To determine the appropriate sleeve size, it is first necessary to clean the shaft carefully. The diameter of an undamaged section of the seal counterface should then be measured on at least three different planes. The arithmetical mean of these measurements determines the size of SKF Speedi-Sleeve. If the value lies within the permissible range listed in the product table for the shaft diameter d1, SKF Speedi-Sleeve will have an adequate tight fit on the shaft and will not require an adhesive. I looked at the pic of the sleeve you mentioned. That 2.203 is the OD of the flange that the tool engages to push it in place. The shaft size is 1.872 min to 1.878 max. FYI; on Rock, if you click on the info tab you can see the pic and all the dimensions.

Last time I looked the measuring instructions were on the SKF site. No machining is needed. The sleeve will come with an installation tool. Just coat the part with the correct adhesive (I use Loctite) and install with the tool. Hint, once you find the SKF part number, use it to search on the web. I found a competing brand on eBay, listed to cross to the SKF number, at less than half the name brand. Worked fine.

First time I laid those tiles was in a sun room/sauna for a guy. Black grout. I failed to seal them first. Fortunately, I didn't grout very far before I figured it out. Took forever to get the black out of those first few. Sealed the rest, the grouted, much better.

I had a similar deal years ago. Cut post off, after temp brace in place, one at a time. dug a big post hole and welded a plate to the bottom of the old post. Then formed at the top of the hole up to the plate, filled with concrete. Insert anchors to tie the plate/pole to the concrete. It'll give you a chance to use that welder! And, if desired you can weld some light gauge purlins to the posts to attach siding. Just a thought.

Just a comment about silver bearing processes. Silver solder melts at a lower temp than Silver Braze. Solder can be done with propane. Braze is normally done with OX/ACe but can be done with ace/air torches. Braze is much stronger and is the norm for air conditioning as it is better suited to the pressures encountered. It is also used to attach hydraulic fittings to steel lines. With high silver content rod and well prepared surfaces, it can be done with no flux. An acetylene torch can have much smaller tips and are better suited for small work as the heat can be contained to a limited area. My propane torch has a huge flame in comparison and won't melt silver brazing rod. either are much easier (at least for me) than welding, especially on unusual metals or dissimilar metals. When I wrote my first comment on the subject I used silver solder, but edited to braze as that is a better fit for the hole pictured IMO. I've always wanted to try mig brazing but the wire is crazy expensive for playing around with no real need for it.

Agree with all of that. The 'protest' does more to alienate the general public against the 'protestors' than bring attention to bear against the original issue. Many of the same people that abhor the conduct of the officers feel the same toward that type of protest and those who participate. All the wrongdoers should be prosecuted! Impossible, but an ideal outcome.

If you have an oxy/act torch, you may be able to do it with a silver bearing brazeing rod. Won't corrode, lower melt point than SS, will polish up, different color but maybe passable. Plenty strong as it's used on high pressure AC and even hydraulics. And, high silver content makes it wet out and flow easily. Not cheap though, I think 3 sticks about 24" long were 12 bucks from eba.

Another option for improving wipers is adding a vac pump.. Only really practical if one is also converting to 12v alternator, but there are some that have a vac pump mounted on the back. I have on I was saving for that, but wound up with a 12v 56 truck so won't be using it. They are commonly found on small diesel trucks from Japan. Mine came from a Mitsubishi, was used to power the vac booster for the brakes.

IME, welding while mounted will aid in getting the right shape. Mo better than trying to reshape an already welded piece.

I've had fair luck welding with copper backing on thin stuff. Nothing fancy, just take a piece of copper tubing, hammer flat and bend to fit the part being welded. clamp in place using long vise grip pliers* and weld. Use very short beads, no more than 1/4 " and spaced about an inch. Then come back and fill at the same rate. The clamps also assure the two pieces are perfectly aligned. The copper helps prevent burn-thru and lets you do some filling of wide fitups. *like these: They also come in longer versions, I have both.

300 feet, inside a metal building with the receiver inside a brick building. Doesn't seem to me to be workable. But, I'll look at some specs, thanks for the idea. Maybe there are some that could use my phones' hot spot to reach the internet?

I've done it, added pins, but not by drilling the center post. Drill the base so that the pin goes under the post when fully extended. May not be possible with all designs though as some don't look like the frame extends fare enough down. If one trusts there welding skills enough, some metal could be added I guess.

Red is the key. I've seen several, both in person and in pics, that had failed. All had the holes horizontal. And, adding the wood helps with preventing concentrated point loads. Not that I'd ever work under one like that, but for storage, sure.

You might make a conditional offer. $100 bucks, with more payment after it is thoroughly checked out. If I had it, it would be sold that way, but the price would be $500 or more since you would be assured of usable parts.

The valves can be removed with the manifolds on, IF one has the correct spring compressor. Kind of a pain to work around the manifolds, but in your case they probably tried to remove them, found the same issues you did and just worked around them.