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kencombs

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kencombs last won the day on December 22 2019

kencombs had the most liked content!

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About kencombs

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands
  • Birthday 02/11/1943

Contact Methods

  • Yahoo
    antiquesetc@sbcglobal.net
  • Occupation
    ret

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    claremore, ok
  • Interests
    old trucks obviously, any 30/40/50 vehicle. Woodworking, welding, painting etc.
  • My Project Cars
    56 1/2T

Converted

  • Location
    claremore ok
  • Interests
    old cars and woodworking

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  1. They need to be moving at a pretty good clip to have the coupling spin the motor. So really steep, long hill or another vehicle. A lot like early full automatics. Lots of joke back then having to do with 'you need to be going 35 to push start it'. AFTER you get both moving, not a head start from the pusher! That stopped when all the makers removed the rear pump. Driveshaft turning no longer ran a pump, and created oil pressure to apply servos.
  2. When I get my '56 core out the plan is to search heater core catalogs for a stock unit that may be adaptable. The Murray catalog list all their units are listed with dimensions a pictures. Surely out of the hundreds listed I can find one that can the adapted. At least that is my hope. While I haven't tested mine, it was disconnected and that is usually a sign that it leaks. Edit: For anyone interested in pursuing this possibility, One sources example starts on pg 43 of this document :http://www.carquestprofessionals.com/catalogs/heating_cooling/htr_heater_core_app_g
  3. Great news Paul! My latest aids have Bluetooth connectivity so they pair with my pickup sound system and my smart phone. The pickup link makes hearing while in it much better than the phone alone as it uses the vehicle speakers and mike. And, the aid connects to my phone allowing me to answer calls and hear directly in the aids. I can do that even when not holding the phone, it can even be in the next room. In addition, there is an app on the phone that allows me to select from different aid profiles. Restaurant, music, etc, five in total. And I can create custom programs f
  4. I just checked my old Hollander engine and crankshaft interchange. It appears the 218 was not used with FD. But, a lot of the engines in our vehicles today are not factory original. So no telling what you will find. There is even mention in the engine section about the flywheel needed to use a FD engine in standard applications that accounts for the longer crankshaft.
  5. That is the thing! It as about the only thing that can effect mixture as you described it. If the jets haven't magically expanded, the float level is correct and the needle/seat assembly is stopping fuel flow it almost has to be the 'step up assembly'. The only place I've seen that terminology is Mopar books. The rest of the world uses more descriptive terms.
  6. Paul, I've worn aids in both ears for over 40 years. And, probably needed them from birth, just didn't know it. On my last exam the doc recommended that I be examined by a specialist that works with implants. I haven't done so, but it is in my future plans. It apparently requires some relearning as the brain will now have input it was missing before. Report back and let us know how it goes for you
  7. When working on the carb pay particular attention to the power enrichment piston and vacuum path from the base to the piston. Lack of vacuum will result in a rich mixture as will a sticking piston
  8. In and out lines change with filter maker, engine is the same. There were several brands of after market filters back in the day. I don't remember which but the cartridge and sock type are not the same.
  9. The bypass filter will receive no oil until there is enough flow and pressure to open the regulator
  10. I agree with the last post, a bare chassis isn't heavy enough to depress the springs. Similar to having a car suspended by the frame either on stands or a lift. The suspension will drop far enough that the shocks won't extend enough to fit without lifting the axle.
  11. The best tool purchases I've made in the last 10 years are the ratcheting box ends! I've got SAE, Metric, zero offset, reversible, stubbies and flex. Not all the combinations, but the ones I find a use for. Fans, upper strut nuts on Mopar minivans and other odd uses make them worth every penny.
  12. Thanks for finding that for me Sniper. I looked and looked before my earlier response. That is exactly, even the Copper Coat, what I did on my 230 that hasn't been started yet. I knew I read that somewhere!
  13. You're correct on the sealer, at least on the MLS designs. I seem to recall that sealer can be applied to one side of the steel on one side only gaskets. I'm not sure if the older gasket designs ever got the latest tech factory sealers applied. I've seen several NOS gaskets for sale and they almost never are of new design. Hard to match the process to gaskets when using unknowns like that.
  14. What kind of gasket (composite, copper etc) and brand did you use? Was any sealer used? There have been several reports of new aluminum head having some porosity. Is yours for sure leaking at the gasket and not a pinhole?
  15. Yes you can do that. It really isn't mandatory to fasten the drum as they are centered on the hub by a little pilot ring and sandwiched between the wheel and hub by the lug studs and nuts. but, to be sure they don't dislodge during a wheel change they can be attached by a couple of machine screws. I've drilled and tapped holes in the drum and hub, then drilled the drum hole out to clear the threads. Followed that by a countersink to accommodate a flat head screw. Just be sure the countersink is deep enough to completely bury the screw head. You can do that on the rear too, an
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