kencombs

I don't know the length, but it normally sold in bulk lengths Local hardware store handles 6 and 12". I think they are 3/8sq, but just measure the width of the axle groove. And, they aren't Woodruff keys, just plain key stock. Woodruffs are arc shaped, and the shaft socket is cut with a circular cutter cutter.

I disagree with the term cheap. The parts are substandard, but the prices are anything but cheap!

No help on rejuvenation tricks. But Have you tried searching the Chicago Rawhide catalog for a modern cross, by dimension, not application? It's amazing what kind of cross applications you can find sometimes. I needed seals for the rear axles on a Case garden tractor. Found crankshaft seals for a Kohler engine that were a perfect fit. You'll need shaft OD, approximate width and recess ID.

Reminds me of my first experience with the slant six. The airline I worked for back in the sixties has bought a new 63. Crew cab, (when 4dr six passenger trucks were rare), slant six with Torqflite. Our hangar was at the North end of a 10,000ft runway on the East side. The passenger terminal was on the South end, West side. So just over 5 mile round trip. When I left that department in 71, it had well over 125,000miles on it, with 127 different drivers. No engine or transmission repairs! It had only been off the airport a couple of times for two 200 mile trips to service a plane grounded at a non-maintenance station. literally thousands of short trips, lots of drivers and still truckin'!! Always had at least 4, usually 6 guys aboard + tools. Slower that molasses in that heavy thing but reliable.

That wire in the edge roll was a common thing when that type of fender construction was common. Many times a dent would stretch the metal and deform the shape and the reinforced bead was the best way to restore the shape. Or, at least easier, if not better than properly shrinking it so it would hold its shape.,

I don't worry about adding zinc as there was none in the oils available when these cars were new for the most part. It only became common after high performance OHV engines came on the scene. The increase invalve train weight, higher rpm and spring pressure drove the need to reduce wear at the cam/lifter interface. The gray is primarily aluminum from piston wear, fine cast iron particles from the cylinders, and lead alloys from bearing wear. Larger Iron/steel particles come primarily from timing components, chain and gears.. I've never seen any research confirming lead from combustion contributing to sludge. It's interesting to me to see the difference that was apparent back in the 60s whe full flow filters became common. Back then I was deeply into at least a couple of engines a week. Engines just didn't have the heavy gray deposits if equipped with full flow filters like the yblock fords, poly head mopars and small block chevys. Blowby create black sludge from oil carbons , but not the gray stuff.

I think the common Ford axle flange will be too small for the 1T bolt circle.

Here's one source: https://www.ebay.com/itm/225099154783?hash=item3468f4855f:g:XgoAAOSwtqJi5fHU And, the can is a nice display item too! Or, here is modern version:https://www.amazon.com/Millers-Oils-5256TB-Classic-Grease/dp/B00JFF4Y44

Well, it looks bad. But if only one journal won't clean up at .030, it can be welded up. More than one, and it could become cheaper to find another core.

First thing I thought of too! I see some custom wheel adapters in his future if he wants to retain the matching wheels front and rear. I would. Second option for me would be a front axle swap to match the new rear bolt pattern.

Look for exhaust interference with something under the car, manifold to rear bumper. It tends to move with engine torque and could be touching somewhere or something. Or rear spring noise when the leafs move against one another during torque changes.

Just use a bolt that fits, with the same thread sealer you used on manifold and head bolts that enter the water jacket. Or use a copper sealing washer under the head if you prefer. Not a big deal.

My simplistic definition of dwell: The duration of a completed circuit from a coil primary to ground, expressed in degrees of rotation. The latter is important, the time varies by RPM, the degree doesn't. A points system can't vary that. An electronic system can change according to it's map as stated. So, I would expect the dwell, expressed in degrees to change as does the time. That is exactly why my project will be getting a GM controller, slant six modded distributor and ecoil. TO THE OP: Is your dwell a constant 28deg, or do you see a variance with rpm changes? I would almost bet that the current version of the product your using may be different that older models as the maker 'remapped' it to fix issues or improve it. I do know that they fixed them to keep from burning out when the ignition was left on without the engine running.

That one sure looks like the warranty replacement I got from Stanley/Black&Decker to replace a Craftsman from Sears. Mine was a 1/4" but the style is just like that.

The leak cause is dependent of the rebuild method. Some rebuilders use the original type bushing and seal. Others may upgrade to a needle bearing and different seal. Do you have access to that info?? If it has no zerk, it may have been upgraded and the new seal is not seated, if it is a face to face type. But, it wouldn't hurt to add a zerk, give it a shot of grease and run it a bit. Edit: was your old one rebuilt and returned, or was it an exchange rebuilt. If exchange you may have a newer pump with the bearing and new type seal as part of the new core.