kencombs

Be sure he understands the problem with flywheel fitment doesn't end at the number of holes. The crank is also too short and could (likely will) result in the pressure plate and throwout bearing failing to meet up properly. And the starter isn't in the right place, fore and aft due to the flywheel being too close to the block. The ideal solution is replace the crank. Surely the other engine is not yet installed, maybe the shop can do a recall.

I think your engine was assembled with a later crank, probably 318 If so it should be noticeably shorter at theflange than the original. the 313 is in the A family not the earlier poly group.

2 groove crank pulley View Advert I have a 230, from 56 plymouth donor. It has the two piece pulley. Hub that slips over the crank and a flat pulley that attaches to that with six bolts. The bolts are not evenly spaced, one pair is slightly different so that it only matches up in one position. I'm in need of one with two sheaves, grooves. Mine is for a 3/8 belt, but that isn't critical as I'll be using a different alternator. And adding A/C and PS, assuming I find a pulley. Price is open but reasonable as I do have a budget. Advertiser kencombs Date 09/16/2023 Price Category Individual Member Classified Wanted Ad  

Yep, the taper of pipe threads can crack castings, especially aluminum or offshore 'mystery alloys', if overtightened, and any lube on the threads increases the risk.

You're correct gas and gasoline are different things. That said, the yellow tape was developed for gas lines. It is much thicker, denser and stronger in order to resist the higher torque applied to fuel lines, as compared to smaller water lines the white stuff is normally used with. And the white stuff is not approved for use with gas or propane per the NEC. Some of the components of petroleum products apparently don't play well with the thinner white stuff. Truthfully, I don't use anything on first assembly as most fittings seal without it. In the case of a bad one, I pull it out and use some sealer, but usually a thread locker type rather than tape or paste.

Plumbing aisle of Lowes or HD. Speced for natural gas an propane piping.

To echo and maybe clarify, compression and flares do not seal on the threads so no sealant needed. NPT seals on the thread so use sealant if needed. But, judiciously so that none is allowed to enter the fittings opening. I try not to have any on the first one or two threads.

The 27 pitch thread is the same as 1/8pipe, except that normal pipe is a tapered thread. I'd expect that one could make the nut by using a hex head pipe plug, drilling a hole to fit the tube and tapering the opening to mate with the ferule/sleeve. A pipe die, installed on the plug in reverse (starting/tapered side first) would work to remove the taper from the plug.

The 408 is just the 360 block with a new set of pistons, rods and crank. so you can use all the existing block, heads etc.

Looks to be an Aspen/Lebaron front suspension, late 70s early 80s. Once a very popular swap, as is the 8" Ford rear. Frame from cab back looks all custom. I'd bet without seeing the front clip is all Aspen, original frame frame under the cab only. I'd vote for rebulding the 360 to fit you needs. Good engine to start with. 408CI kits available if needed. That intake setup is not my cup of tea. I'd select a FI setup. Much more to learn for the students as compared to a swap. JMHO.

marked out the extra words for you.

If I'm visualizing the plastic part correctly it is a backup ring. All the oring/backup ring installations I've seen have the oring toward the pressure and the backup on the other side. Their function is to keep the oring from extruding into the piston/cylinder clearance area under pressure. I've had good results when working on jacks by positioning the jack so that the fill port is the highest part of the jack. Floor jack standing on it's front wheels usually, ram fully retracted. Fill and let it set with the lower/release valve open, overnight if possible so that air will migrate upward.

I've encountered similar symptoms when the centrifugal advance springs are broken. Plate just sorta floats from advance to non or someplace in between.

The first time I picked up a wrench it was drilled into me that, all left/right identification was when setting in the drivers seat. Holds true in planes, trains and automobiles as well a construction equipment. It's only confusing when on a tractor converted to a forklift and the seat is facing the back. If buying parts for the tractor, from the dealer, not the converter, it can be fun.