kencombs

If it's not mounts or adjustment, the most common wear item that causes this is in the synchronizer clutch and/or bearings. Wasn't often an issue with the Mopar trans back in the day, but GM and Ford 3 spds made Dad a lot of money fixing and selling.

First time I've read this but knew as soon as I saw 'heats up to 200 idling" that is was going to be an airflow, not water flow issue. Always is if the problem appears at idle. I understand the issue of the PS pump taking up the old fan space. But you have to have adequate airflow somehow. Two smaller fans, mounted diagonally from each other and 'flappers' in the other corners would be may work. Plan something similar on my pickup. The flappers are to allow ram air flow to augment the fans at speed. Two fans should allow more control of temp in cooler weather. I've saved a pair of fans from a car with air conditioning which should do the trick. Need to fab a sheet metal plate similar to Sniper's but with two fans. The flappers will be rubber mounted behind slots cut in the metal plate.

Never intended to be used for a emergency stop, but would slow to a stop, slowly. However, the later internal expanding shoe type would lock the rear wheels at speed. Had a 59 Dodge with a transplanted 413 using the early TorqueFlite with separate converter housing and tailshaft brake. This was in 62or3 and I was a lot younger and dumber so I tried it out. Hard to control the skid with the rear brakes locked at 60+.

Yep, 39 was Ford's first hydraulics, rod and cable up til then. 'safe as steel, pedal to wheel' was one of the selling slogans.

I wouldn't swap the pump without a reason. IOW, install, start and then if the pressure is low look for the reason. Oil pumps seldom fail IME, after all they are the best lubricated part in the engine. Pressure is mostly a function of bearing clearances, relief valve setting and oil viscosity.

My guess is it was not vacuum locked but the maker had used some sort of assembly or storage lube. And, that had become sticky due to long storage as who knows how long it had been warehoused before you got it. First time it was moved it just stayed there as the little spring didn't have enough push to unstick it. Curious as to why that didn't show up during bench bleeding though.

I'm not familiar with your specific MC but most have 2 pistons. Can't tell from your pic if there is one or two cups on that one piston or if it is two piece. Maybe two piece? Look back at the pic I posted. That's how most do a tandem master. Two pistons, with the fluid trapped between moving the second one. If there is a loss of fluid, then the rear one contacts the front one directly after a lot of excessive travel. What year and model is yours from? edit: this is a 75 I think.

Look back at the pic I posted. Sure sound like there is no fluid in front of the rear piston, so the front one only moves when it hits the mechanical stop. That reduces flow by a bunch!

Hot cable is either a bad connection or just a too small cable. I recommend finding and fixing that issue first.

IME low fuel flow always just causes a drop in power, but smooth. Ignition issues cause a miss under load, that miss can be felt as a 'bucking', jerkiness ect. One of my diagnostic back in the day was to drive in high gear, uphill and gradually load the engine. That felt miss would cause me to go check plugs, points and condenser. Given everything we know now, electronic ignition etc. My first suspect is spark plugs or wires. Check their age and condition. Coil would be my last suspect.

Low but hard pedal, no pressure to front, Ok to back. Bench bleed and plugged ports prove the Master to be moving fluid to the front port. Sure sounds like lots of air trapped in the front circuit to me. Or, there is air trapped between the two master pistons. Take a look at the internal diagram of the MC you're using to see if that makes sense to you. But if that were the case it should have been handled by the bench bleed? I don't know what else it could be. Edit to add a generic mc pic Picture what happen if the bottom 'to brakes' port is connected to a line with lots of air. First, not fluid comes out because only small amount of fluid is moved with one motion and it won't fill the line. The the push rod will move until the back piston hits the front and it moves fluid. Now you have a hard but low pedal applying only half the brakes. Of course similar things would happen if that port that filles the area between the pistons is blocked by a too long push rod adjustment.

Sorry, when I mention 'brake bleeder' in quotes I was referring to the better half helper. Does it/she build pedal quickly? solid feel or spongy? those things are key to isolating air in the lines as an issue. If the MC was solid when bench bled it builds pressure, your bleed procedure proved that. Not leaking and building pressure are not always connected. No leaks by the cups, doesn't prove that it isn't bypassing internally, but the solid feel on the bench does. But remember there may be flow from an open bleeder, but no pressure, pressure is the result of flow and resistance to the flow. For instance, with a really loose brake shoe to drum fit, it is possible to use all the stroke and fluid volume just moving the piston/shoe out to the drum and have no more left to build pressure.

Bummer on the brake problem. When your 'brake bleeder' pumps the brake, does it have a hard pedal at any time? IOW, does the pedal pump up? How many strokes does it take to get there? Reason for asking is this: I suspect your MC is building pressure, but just not enough because of having a lot of air to contend with. Maybe a vacuum bleed to start with might help? Or even a gravity bleed, just open bleeders on the rear, jack up the front and top of the fluid. See it any seeps out, displacing air in that long path. edit: Forgot to ask, you did bench bleed the MC, right? If it really has a problem it should be obvious at that point. If you didn't, I really recommend that you do.

I just don't fully trust any of the store brand tractor fluids since the 303 fiasco. Unless, I can find out the company that provides it. Sometimes it's the same stuff sold with major labels on it, sometimes not. And, I missed the Gl label on the original post.

I'm sure you know this, but just in case or a reminder. Plastigage main measurement in the car requires the crankshaft be held against the top half shell. Otherwise the weight of the crank will show a much closer fit than you really have. I usually put a shim between the bearing and crank on #1 and 4 bearing, before measuring 2 and 3. then move the shims to 2&3. Just don't tighten the caps to full torque as you could conceivably crack a cap.