kencombs

That's not always the case. In a lot of listings alternates are listed along with changes needed. Example would be our flatheads, bypass/internal, the interchange is shown with the proper gasket. Not nearly as true with later stuff, but my book is the 30th edition. Paper, not online like the current version. Side gear swaps for rear end interchange is also listed. That's for the change in spline count. Dad owned a salvage for 30 years and I spent a lot, really a lot, of time thumbing through those from 1960-90.

That last pic looks like my 218 heads. On the 230 the chamber extends almost all the way over the piston top. I'll be using diesel for the measurement, no surface tension issues like water and a slight amount of color to make it easy to see. I plan to lay a gasket in place, trace the chamber on the head with a Sharpie and use that to guide my grease sealer location. Did you arrive at a material removal amount to gain a specific ratio?

My guess: The parts are balanced separately when new but with a 'dummy' standard flywheel or crank attached. The hole offset assures the real part is assembled as the dummy was when balanced.

Did you have Egge grind lifters also or purchase new? Thinking through this now as I've found a cam issue with my project. It's bent!

I have a couple of extra heads that came from 218 engines. Both are the external water bypass design. My third head is a 56 plymouth 230. Verified by the casting number. Comparing the older combustion chambers to the 230 head shows that the 218 had a lot smaller chamber. Very little open area over the piston. Otherwise they look identical in shape and depth over the valve area. My surprise was when I measured the thickness of the head at the bolt bosses. I expected to find the 218 to be thinner as a result of removing stock to arrive at the smaller chamber. It's not, it is actually thicker. Explains the different casting number. Now I need to cc the 230 head to see how much to remove to get to 8.5 compression ratio. Blasted it clean today and found a piece of plastic to use to seal the surface. Probably use a syringe instead of a burette to measure the fluid. Probably be 60something cc's so more than one syringe fill.

My wife has a diamond nail file that mysteriously disappears occasionally. But it always comes back somehow. Don't know how that happens, but can tell you that a fine diamond dust file cuts the lumps off of tungsten points quickly.

I would do the straightening on the fenders first. Especially since they are heavy enough to require heat. That process, heat, hammer,repeat, will probably remove some of the paint and reduce the sanding needed. My theory on paint removal is that if it is well adhered and has no rust under it, it can stay. Just feather the edges well, apply a liberal dose of epoxy primer followed by a filler primer after the proper wait time. Then move on to finish sanding, more primer and blocking. If needed the rust can be handled, after sanding or blasting. with PickleX20 under the epoxy.

Glad to hear feedback on the oil pressure. I've been debating the full flow mod as you did it. Sounds like the hole placement and line sizing has been proven in your use. Now, just to get up the nerve to drill/tap my block.

Judging from the price you must be looking for a 'Center Link', not drag link. Looked it up and boy they are expensive. Auto Zone seems to sell the Rare Parts brand, but what is interesting is they have a 100buck core charge. That indicates to me that someone, somewhere is replacing the wear parts and selling rebuilts. Maybe one could do the same with some ingenuity. If it is the part I think it is it's a long bar that has tie rod ends formed, not screwed, both ends, one for the pitman arm the other for the idler arm. the tie rods attach to tapered holes near the ends.

My tentative plan (if I ever get that far in my truck build), is to make an aluminum base plate. Just flat 1/8" or so plate with two holes to sit on the carbs aircleaner mounting flange. Then look at a filter maker's dimensional catalog and find an oval element that works for the carb spacing and available width. Cut the base plate to fit the element. I've done some preliminary investigation and such elements are available. Then make a top plate from the same material. Drill for mounting studs and sandwich it all together. Polish the top and bolt it on. Sounds simple. bet it's gonna be harder though! I may substitute stainless steel as I have some available.. IF it doesn't seem to hard to work with. One wrinkle in this plan is the fact that my Offy manifold doesn't mount both carbs at the same height. so a spacer under one will be needed to get the single base plate to fit correctly.

Agree with this advice. I 'll add this: Use a fine grinding stone on a die grinder, or similar tool, to smooth the edges of the chips. That removes stress risers that can further damage the teeth and eases the engagement. A slight taper and no sharp edges is the goal. Back when 'three on the tree' replacement and repair was a staple of the auto salvage and garage business, we did hundreds like that.

Often misunderstood are 'freeze plugs', in my Yoda voice. Called freeze plugs in common discussion by most everyone. Core plugs is the correct name and describes their real purpose, which is to remove the sand used to build the casting core pattern. I've seen them push out of an engine that had the coolant frozen. I've also seen very long cracks, full length of the water jacket below the level of the plugs. Was taught long ago to use Permatex, either #1 or 2 as a sealant on them. If I see any evidence of a imperfect block hole due to chipping or corrosion, it gets a bead of JBWeld in the bottom. Never have had a leak on one that had those treatments.

W -Steel, when used with good coolant, should last longer than the engine. Most of them rust due to inadequate anti-rust in the coolant, diluted too much with water or water with too many contaminates. Brass is available, but at a premium and I just don't see the value. Installation, proper prep on the recess and sealer are much more important. If I see any hint of pitting in the block at the seating area, it gets a little JBweld instead of Permatex.

IMO, that's the way an ammeter should be wired. It is intended to show the net of load and charge. Otherwise you can be mislead by loads that are not wired from the ammeter. Let's say the underhood or trunk convenience lights stay on due to a bad switch, but are wired battery direct. No discharge shown but battery discharges. As far as diagnosing or providing charge system health, a voltage meter is superior. And, no high current path into the car's dash area is a plus.

With emphasis on 'tapping' in step three. careful with the strength and location of the 'taps'. tube damage is possible. If you have access to an air hammer with the appropriate tool it's much easier.