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About harmony

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Profile Information

  • Location
    BC Canada
  • My Project Cars
    1948 Chrysler Windsor


  • Location
    British Columbia
  • Interests
    driving my 48 chrysler

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476 profile views
  1. Any idea why that grade of oil would cause slow downshifting? I sort of understand what's going on in there with the shifting of gears depending on the oil pressure in the trans etc.
  2. Interesting about the grades,,,, When I was looking at all the selections available at NAPA. I thought ok, so why not go with 5W20. It might balance out to 10W in a laymens way of thinking.
  3. That's interesting that lubriplate calls it "motor" oil.
  4. Thanks for that link, but as it was noted earlier in the thread, I'm talking about the transmission and not the coupler.
  5. Ok thanks, Yes we can get that general purpose 10W non detergent oil ( Castrol) at NAPA here in Canada. I just got a little confused and curious I suppose about the difference between the 10W motor oil back then and the general purpose non detergent 10W oil on the shelf these days. When I was a kid back in the 60's pumping gas I remember the individual grades and the 10W motor oil still had the honey colour of oil, just really thin. The general purpose 10W non detergent oil I got at NAPA yesterday is actually clear as water.
  6. Sorry, I have a fluid drive coupler. So in a sense the transmission shifts gears using hydraulic pressure other than when shifting low to high. Making me think that maybe the SAE 10W oil would be suitable. But I remember back when 10W motor oil was available and it was the colour of motor oil just thinner. But then again, maybe they are completely different animals.
  7. Now I know I'll probably get scolded for a topic already covered, but the search engine here is pretty useless. No matter which way I worded my search I got completely unrelated topics here. I get better links to related topics on here from Google. Anyways the manual calls for SAE 10W oil for the transmission. But is that motor oil or general purpose SAE 10W oil? I couldn't find any 10W motor oil at the auto parts stores. SAE 10W oil is pretty much crystal clear and the label says it's for low pressure hydraulic systems, or compressors. Is that the stuff to use? I've heard some g
  8. Ahhh, but you've never seen my work. The "correct way" would have been for the factory to have done it the way I'm about to do it. Professionally, innovatively, and funtionally. So the mechanics down the road wouldn't be cursing the pencil pushers every time they pulled the wheel.
  9. So after reading TravisL17 and Dodgeb4ya thoughts and procedure, I think I will disconnect at the relay, pull the wire up a couple feet or so, then cut the wire maybe a foot or so below the 3 prong brass horn plate. Then add a connector like the ones up under the dash. Well insulated. I'll add an extra foot or so of wire and coil it like the old land line telephone cords. Right now I can't remember how many revolutions the steering wheel rotates stop to stop. But I don't think there should be any binding issues with this method. I'll also add some heat shrink around the connector.
  10. No connector on mine. As I mentioned, mine is one continuous wire to the relay. Besides that though your explanation sounds like the way I would approach it, but it would be nice if there was enough spare wire in the steering column tube to pull out, cut, and then solder on a connector at the top. It would be more fun working at the steering wheel end as opposed to down under the steering box.
  11. Yes that makes sense, and I got a mirror and flashlight and had a look at the opening on the steering box and you're quite right. Very small hole.
  12. I have a lazy turn signal on my 48 Chrysler, and lately the left side needs to be cancelled manually. So I want to pull the wheel and have a look. The turn signal unit out of my parts car is in good shape so between the two I'm confident I can solve the problem. However the horn button wire runs up through the centre of the steering shaft. Does anyone know if there is a quick disconnect male/female coupler inside just below the wheel where the wire can be disconnected? I'm thinking if that's the case I can disconnect the horn wire. Tape it to a foot long piece of mechanic wire, then let
  13. I think maybe it's the other way around. This is just a guess, but maybe there would be a hollow rod that would slide into the centre of the braided ground wire, with a point on one end that would poke through the side of the ground wire at a specific length ( similar to a fid tool used in splicing eyes on the end of braided rope) Then the hot wire would be fed through the hollow rod with a few inches on each end to spare, then the rod would be pulled out. That braided ground strap was super flexible so I'm guessing someone would do that assembly by hand.
  14. Then perhaps it's safe to say it came out of the factory that way. That's one job, I wouldn't want at the assembly plant.
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