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harmony

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harmony last won the day on February 27 2023

harmony had the most liked content!

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Profile Information

  • Location
    BC Canada
  • My Project Cars
    1948 Chrysler Windsor, 1930 Hudson Super 8

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  • Location
    British Columbia
  • Interests
    driving my 48 chrysler

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  1. Wow! Good to know about the plastic bottles. But now I'm curious about the "modern" plastic brake fluid reservoirs on the master cylinder? So at what % is the brake fluid unacceptable?
  2. It's good to hear that you haven't had any issues with this pen. I was about to order one but then there were a few reviews that said they didn't trust them because they tried the tool in a brand new bottle of dot4 brake fluid and it read 4% water.
  3. If you prefer the paper versions of the M5 transmission over the videos, here are a couple links about it. There are around 20 pages give or take in each booklet. https://www.web.imperialclub.info/Repair/Lit/Master/012A/cover.htm https://www.web.imperialclub.info/Repair/Lit/Master/012B/cover.htm
  4. From the way you worded your post it sounds like you would like to go for a ride in another fluid drive car to experience how it's shifting and how the transmission sounds and responds. You probably already know this but the "master tech" videos cover the M5 really well. Also, perhaps you already know this, but the carb idle has to be as low as possible without stalling the engine. Around 450 rpm's. If it's higher than that, it just won't shift gears. But if you have a specific question, than there are a few of us that drive cars with that same M5 and are fairly familiar with what needs to be corrected in order for them to be reliable.
  5. Yep, I know what you're talking about and I agree. You're doing a great job. Keep us informed with lots of picks to drool over as the project goes on.
  6. Thanks for that link. I'm somewhat familiar with casting. I used to have a pressure pot and a vacuum tank for the purpose of woodturning projects. So I'm guessing that some of your dash pieces were fairly long. Did you make your own, long pressure pot or did you omit that part of the procedure?
  7. Cool and very Interesting. It would be appreciated if you would explain the process in detail. I went to Grain it Technologies web site and although they do show some of the process in a video. They either have an issue with links to all the available videos on their web site, or they expect you to pay for their "info and selection" videos. Because nothing on their video page is linkable. The nice thing is that there are many patterns to choose from, even a number of leather patterns. I'm pretty sure that you wouldn't be boring any of us if you let us in on the process with tons of pictures throughout the process and or videos. I'd be interested in seeing exactly what tools you bought from them. Or did you buy the complete kit? Or perhaps the Pro kit? That roller is huge, so I'm guessing that you bought smaller rollers as well ( 7 sizes) in order to get into tight concave surfaces. I'm also curious what you needed from Smooth-On molds? Was that a separate process or was the mold making process incorporated into the graining process that you did?
  8. I'm constantly looking for those bed frames on a front lawn with that beautiful sign that says FREE. I'm guessing that I have about half a dozen in my stock bin at any given time. I've built countless tools with those bedframe rails.
  9. Thanks, Well at least you didn't say "stay clear of those skins". So at this point I just have to decide if I want to live with the scratched, slightly dinted in places, and tired chrome, hub caps that I have now, or dig deep into my wallett and bite the bullet. I'm guessing that the skin is already formed to fit over the edge of the hub cap, and once the adhesive is set, you'd gently start working your way around the edge to draw the lip in tight. Do you remember what you found to be the best tool for the job? I'm thinking a soft rubber mallet.
  10. Personally, I use flux core. Granted it's a little more difficult once you get down to something thinner than body steel. But I just switch from .035 to .025 and make the adjustments on the mig welder. As for body steel and thinner gauge steel, I use it like a spot welder and keep going back and forth filling in the gaps. I don't want the added expense (and hassle of the exchange process) of a gas bottle, because the welder may sit for a month or so not even being used. Plus I find it difficult to see around that shield anyways. I never use a shield with flux core, plus I can turn on a fan with the flux core to blow away the fumes without the air effecting the weld. I believe it just takes practice to lay down a bead or multiple spots without the "crater effect" when using flux core. There is a guy in Canada (down east) that has a YouTube channel called Fitzee's Fabrications. He's one hell of a body man and fabricator. He's got some pretty cool techniques. If I remember correctly, he only uses mig.
  11. I'm wonder if anyone has had any experience with the '46-'48 , 11 inch Chrysler hubcap skins? There are a couple suppliers offering them for $100 US each. That's hugely expensive by the time you convert to Canadian funds and have a full set shipped up here to Canada. I'm curious if they are reliable? They say that they are easily put over the hub caps once the old skins are removed. But the lip that wraps around the back of the hub cap only wraps around about an 1/8" at the most. I'm curious if they sort of snap on, or if you have to be pean them over with a rubber mallet. The suppliers also suggest that it's a good idea to use some sort of adhesive between the original hub cap and the inside of the new skin. That tells me that they might be prone to coming off. I'm thinking that the skins were originally pressed on at the factory. It's really difficult to even get a knife under that lip of one of mine. I don't dare experiment and try to remove one, because it might get destroyed coming off.
  12. I personally think that the key to speedi (redi) sleeves application, is taking a precise reading of the shaft that it will be fitted over. That can be difficult if there are a few worn sections of the shaft. If there are significant groves in the shaft or if it feels like the sleeve is going on to easily, I suggest using loctite 609 to make sure that the sleeve that was selected, doesn't rotate.
  13. Gotta love how Chrysler referred to this method as a "stunt" right there in print. lol!
  14. Thanks for that info on that rejuvenator tool. I didn't even know it existed. Let us know how well it works.
  15. Today I got brave and I put a 1 inch box end wrench on the bushing, as it is called in the manual, and then a 3 foot pipe on the end of the wrench and after a couple grunts it came loose. I loosened it out about a full turn, pumped in some grease. Only a small amount would go in. Then I re-tightened up the bushing. That tightening procedure also forced that small amount of new grease in a little further. I repeated the procedure a few times and each time loosened the bushing just a little bit further, and I was getting a little bit more fresh grease in there each time. After awhile the grease was going in and coming out the other end of the dust cover nicely. As usual, patience and persistence is the key with these old girls.
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