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Bryan last won the day on June 8

Bryan had the most liked content!

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Chesterfield, SC
  • Interests
    Genealogy & old cars..
  • My Project Cars
    1948 Dodge Deluxe sedan & 1958 Dodge Coronet


  • Location
    Chesterfield Co, SC
  • Interests
    Genealogy, old cars..

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  1. So, that doesn't make sense. After #2 was off, I used the bearing inserts from the first rod I used to check #s 1, 3 and 5, thinking maybe it was different. Still did not help. #2 still .010 above deck at front (of piston), almost flush at rear. #4 - flush at front and rear of piston, # 6 flush at rear, .006 above deck at front. Anybody ran across this before?
  2. I'm going bonkers. Started checking the even pistons using the #2 rod. First check on # 2, expecting .011-.010 since # 1 was .012". Freaking piston is about .010 over the deck on # 2. I'll check #4 and 6, to see if the piston gets higher towards the back (block lower) as 1 ,3 and 5 did. Reckon I'll start comparing rod lengths, I'm using the same piston as I did with the previous check. Bryan
  3. On Rock Auto? You must have got the last one. Shows out of stock now.
  4. I ordered that same model and compared it to my 48 Dodge starter and it looked identical.
  5. Interchange manual. Weird, says "all interchange" under 550.
  6. More Information for REMY 25011 (rockauto.com) 1950 PLYMOUTH DELUXE 3.6L 218cid L6 Starter Motor | RockAuto
  7. That's for a universal 12VDC starter switch. Ebay had more info than NAPA. https://www.ebay.com/p/1630301666 Was interested in the solenoid.
  8. Y'all should get patents before a certain person copies it and starts selling them on Ebay..😏
  9. Probably the block top is tapered. It is progressive from front to back. What fooled me at first was the deck is perfectly flat. Didn't think about it not being level. I tired to keep things constant by using the same rod and piston. Any guess at why the #5 is higher at the rear (with same rod & piston)? Would suggest the #5 crank journal is not parallel to top.
  10. What model # and brand is the solenoid? Humor me. Because when I first looked for a solenoid, Rock Auto, O'Reilly etc all listed this as the correct one for a 1948 Dodge, but IT WAS WRONG -> was 12V. https://p15-d24.com/topic/56791-horn-relay-dimmer-switch-solenoid-to-buy-or-not/?do=findComment&comment=610811 This is correct, a 6V solenoid. What I actually bought. https://p15-d24.com/topic/56791-horn-relay-dimmer-switch-solenoid-to-buy-or-not/?do=findComment&comment=610813
  11. That made me check my block . Somewhere, you or someone else mentioned that there could be a difference in height from front to back. Glad I did check. I used one of the older 48 Dodge pistons with the rings off, and a # 1 rod. It measured 1.5730" from top of pin hole to top of piston. Just like my VPW NOS pistons which were between 1.5700 & 1.5750. Well, the D46 block top is straight (flat) as I knew, but lower at rear than at front. #1 piston - .012 clearance, #3 piston - .009, # 5 piston - .003. This was at the tightest spot, a model number embossed on piston top near middle. The pistons are slightly domed on a 1" circle in the middle. Even if I sanded the tops perfectly flat, still would have #1 piston - .016, #3 piston - .013, # 5 piston - .006. One funny thing is that the #5 piston seemed higher at the rear than 1 & 3.
  12. Maybe it's the realization that people can do what they want with their cars. Not everybody has the money/time to overhaul a flathead, if you have another good engine it might be the most economical thing to do.
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