Bryan

Thanks for asking. Had a few health problems that interfered. Finally got over sciatic nerve problems after over a month, thought I'd get to work and crawl under the car before it got cold. We finally went to church mid Oct and got Covid even after getting booster shot a few weeks before. Wife didn't though being around me at home all week.. Wasn't bad, just out for 2 weeks. Got better and we started trying to catch up other work around the house while it was warm here, mostly pressure washing and final grass cutting. Got sick again with some crap I picked up in Israel. It's a minor cold I have 4-5 times a winter where just so worn out don't feel like doing much. Just now feeling better, been painting my wife's smoking room (small bathroom) for about 2 weeks off and on as I have energy, finished yesterday. Now the weather won't warm up in SC. Fear was that it would get cold and I couldn't lay under the car. Glad you asked. Didn't think a lot of people cared. I'd post stuff about oil galleries and possible manufacturing defects, hardly anything. Seemed like people were more interested in how to flush a radiator.. I need to get in a better mood and get motivated. Got new brake lines, gas lines, parts etc..just not enough oophm in me to do other stuff now. Really appreciate your concern.

Put a DIY shroud on that baby.

Thanks..knew they weren't for towing but didn't have a clue. I'll remove them before cleaning the frame. Going to lift the body up just high enough to get to all of the floor pan areas and tops of frame. Got 6 extra jack stands (to my 4 existing), a 2nd floor jack and two 4x4s. Was wondering the best/easiest way to remove the steering box. Thinking of the 3 bolts on the frame and taking the tie rod ends off.

Do you know what they are for?

Anybody know what these are? Can't find in any of my books. Cleaning the frame. Bryan

Before cleaning.

Scraping everything off and going to use Rustoleum rust reformer on everything. Had good results when I painted the rusty rear end on my truck with it. Let it cure 2 weeks and used enamel. I bought 2- 4x4 8ft long boards to use to lift the body. Got to cut them to a little under 6 ft. Bought 6 jack stands, extra floor jack, already extra to the 4 jack stands I already have. Double locking type with pin. Lifting body up about 1 ft, or high enough to get the tops of the frame & body over frame.

It was strange. Looked like a mixture of mud & grease, but very hard. Didn't know whether it was some applied undercoating protection or just accumulated. I might re-coat them in grease when I'm finished.

Hope you could find where I intended. Crazy link I thought would go to the correct page. It was on p14.

Finally got the master cylinder off. Everything removed from under the car. Started using paint scrapers to get off the loose stuff and grease/dirt. Hate using sanding wheels on a grinder first and having it fling crap all over. Seems like the frame is in better shape than it looked, just surface rust. Also floor bottoms aren't too bad. Some kind of weird thick coating on the leaf springs. Scraped it off, loose in places.

I wouldn't try to match the ports to the gaskets. Don't know how thick the ports are with the water jacket behind it. I bought the same exhaust manifolds. I did my ports just to remove what ridges I could without removing too much metal, also rough spots and bumps. Under the edges of the valve seats need to be careful. Mine had recesses in some places so deep I couldn't grind it flush, or I'd undermine the seats. Used a dremel. Look at my posts. I deburred sharp edges in the block, and cleaned out the oil galleries.

In SC mice can be a problem. I keep a bag of mothballs in the trunk and driver floor of the car. Keeps moths and mice away. You have to change them about once a year, and if you are working in/around the car make sure to air it out first with a fan. Will give you a headache, feels like a hangover next day.

I'm in the process of doing the same thing. You can go thru my posts. Take plenty of pictures before doing it. Take pictures of carb linkages, clutch, brake pedal linkages, where stuff is bolted up, line routings, cable routings, etc. Once you take something partially apart, take pictures inside (like of the clutch arm) when you pull the transmission. Buy some black plastic sheeting, and keep large cardboard boxes. You can break down boxes to lay on. Recommend cleaning motor and transmission, bellhousing etc before doing pulling stuff. Otherwise you start spreading sticky grease and oil thru all your tools. Use the plastic to catch grease and oil goo to protect the floor. Get some large clear baggies and sandwich size sealable bags to put small brackets, screws, bolts & nuts in, label the bags as you put stuff in them. Permanent marker on outside, stuff a label inside. Buy a good battery powered impact wrench. I have one that really saved my sh--t about 4-5 times. Need a large hammer and a map gas or propane torch. A lot of penetrating oil and brake cleaner. Need to get an engine hoist (2 ton), load leveler and a transmission jack. Set of SAE impact sockets.

After today's work, it's noted that the crudded up engine from the Dodge in the woods had the #2 & 3 mains wore out. Same mains with the smaller holes from the oil galleries.

Well today I went ahead and drilled the side oil galleries out to the back of the T junction going to the main bearings. Used a 21/64 drill on the front and rear galleries. Was going to do the two middle galleries with a smaller drill bit, but when I drilled, the holes still had a ledge about 1/2 way in. So I used a 5/16" drill. Thank God I didn't break thru anywhere. Found on the front and rear galleries you have to use a 6" long bit, not the 4.5". Otherwise the drill chuck hits the generator pad flanges on the front, and some raised area at the rear. Used electrical tape to mark how deep to go, and also to protect the threads on the oil fitting holes. Forgot to mention, I did not drill the vertical # 2 & 3 mains oil passages out, which are smalller than the front and rear. On the side galleries the ledge is so deep, you have enough bit in the hole to keep it straight. Didn't want to risk getting the bit out of line.