Bryan

That's what I was hoping..

Still researching..snowed here which rarely happens and presently 24F. Found this and thought might be helpful. 230/251 Cam Specs... - Power Wagon Advertiser Forums

Don't know if the ones also fit 2 doors https://www.c2cfabrication.com/pages/search-results-page?q=1942+dodge+floor+pan

Roberts Motor PartsAntique Dodge Truck Parts Antique Plymouth Parts Antique Dodge Parts Trucks Vintage Power Wagons - News - New Products & More Engine & Transmission - Vics Dodge Garage

That beats $185.. 🙂

I have a 48 Dodge. Don't have info for a 1933 Plymouth, but for $3 I'd go for it. (Sorry, didn't see the $4 shipping). It's amazing what people try to charge for simple parts $45..

If the price was still in the range or below the price of a new camshaft I'd go for it. I'd just have to research to find the lift/duration to tell them. Wouldn't really want anything wild, just a mild cam, or one that had any improvements Dodge made in the later years (up to 59). I've seen new cams being advertised (think on VPW) for $150. Probably costs more in most places. Do they repair or resurface the bearing journals also? Seems like that would be hard to do if they are a set dimension - 1.998 front, 1.966, 1.935 and 1.248" for the rear bearing journal. When it gets warmer I'm going to clean them up better and take more pictures of the surfaces. Neither one is terrible.

Got to looing thru sites.. Roberts Motor PartsAntique Dodge Truck Parts Antique Plymouth Parts Antique Dodge Parts Running board rubber Chrysler Dodge truck Plymouth Desoto 1928 1929 1930 1931 1932 1933 1934 1935 1936 1937 1938 1939 1940 1941

I've been using the PB Blaster. Also bought a couple of cans of WD-40. Only problem is sometimes a can seems to run out of propellant before the oil.

With temps staying at 31F all day with wind, I stayed inside and did some research. Was trying to find pilot bushings for my Fluid Drive 48 Dodge. Previously on another post Sniper had mentioned the Oilite bushing site. https://oilite.com/engineering-assist?m_id=1&metric=0&t_id=1 For the inner bushing the ah hem Parts List showed a .565" ID x .815" OD bushing. I did run out for 15 minutes and tried to measure the bushing lengths. Inner bushing seems about 5/8" long (at least longer than 1/2"), top bushing was 7/8" long. I had measured the end of my trans shaft previously. It was .5620" diameter on the end, .9995" midway. So, I thought a good match would be Oilite AA807-03, about 3/4" long. Well, nobody had one. But I did find 807-02 which is 1" long on Amazon. So I ordered it. Can always shorten it. Looks like it was the last one. I'll see if it fits my transmission shaft end. Still looking at the upper 1.0025" ID diameter bushing. Seems like more possibilities in the Oilite listings. They even have flanged sleeves with the right dimensions, you just might have to grind the flange off. OILITE info.pdf

Yeah, I saw one guy posting an engine saying it was a 1950. He found the number pad and it was 1939 motor. On this one I didn't have enough experience to know the difference. Seemed pretty rough. What gets me is when they post only one picture of the outside and nothing else..

Appreciate the heads up. When it gets warmer I'll look at them again. I'll have to clean the cams up and inspect the bearing surfaces to see which one is best. Both ends of the lifters look pretty good except for 1-2 look scratched. Mostly concerned about wear on the part that fits in the bores. About how much does it cost to get a cam reground? Approximate or worst case?

He's right. I just got thru removing my valves. You could get oil or brake fluid to the top of the guides thru the spark plug hole. The spark plug is right above one of the valves. It's probably stuck open since the cam and tappet would push it open, but there's no way to push it down. You could use the tappet adjuster to push the valve up more but there would be no way to push it back down except spring pressure. The guides end about 3/4 up the spring if trying to spray oil from underneath.

1946 1947 1948 DODGE D24 FLUID DRIVE COUPLING with CLUTCH PLATE MOPAR OEM | eBay

I know you have been helpful and know about a lot. I wouldn't stop posting just because of me. You caught me at the long end of a bunch of little things that were aggravating. Been posting progress on my tear down, would have questions on stuff that I would interject.. , recently nobody would say squat. I don't like to make a new post every time I have a question. Then I went and bid on the silly D24 Parts List on Ebay, started at $25, ended up costing $72. Oh well, let's go broke. Then, I got to looking for the part # for the clutch sleeve, my rear end, the camshafts I had..nothing in the Parts List. I have Sniper tell me, oh I could buy it at Rock Auto for $25. Nothing wrong with that, just info. Then I spend an hour carefully measuring the 2 cams I have, post the pictures, and get, it's in the Parts Book. I bounced the Parts Book off my living room wall. Glad I didn't knock a hole in it. It's not that what you said was that bad, just the wrong timing. This is after being couped up in this place with Covid, bad weather and being sick off and on (not Covid), and maybe getting 5 hours of work in the whole week. I know people post without using search, and ask a lot of silly questions that could be researched, and some post misinformation (that definitely needs to be corrected), but for us that just post items that maybe is common knowledge, I would be careful not to pooh it as common, not useful, everybody knows that, etc. For us of little knowledge and experience, it's disheartening to post something you think is great info..and it gets dissed as being yeah everybody knows that. Continue to correct me and others if we post something wrong. Keep posting great info and replies to questions. Don't just stop because of me.