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What oil are you using.


frijolito
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People need more info to answer.  How long have you had the car? Have you had it completely rebuilt recently and want to know what oil to use?  If you have not had it rebuilt and recently got it, you need to be careful if it's been running with non-detergent oil. If so don't put detergent oil in it.  If you had the engine rebuilt, asking the oil question will start a chain of 30W vs 10-30W comments for the next week.  Use the search box on the upper right, put in oil, 10W, 30W, detergent and click on the "all of my search term words" about midway below.

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What is the history of the engine? If it’s been rebuilt any good quality modern oil will work. I use Shell Rotella T 15W40 because of the extra zinc. If not rebuilt I’d use only non detergent 30W . Putting detergent oil in an old engine can cause sludge to migrate and clog things.

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I use whatever 10w30 oil I find a decent price on, last time it was Castrol GTX.

 

Based on the general hackery I have found in this car I can pretty much guarantee whomever owned it before put whatever oil they found in it.  If sludge was going to be an issue it would have already happened for me.  Zinc issues are more applicable as valve spring pressures increase, that's pretty much an non issue for the weak valve springs our engines have.  It doesn't hurt though.

 

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So it was rebuilt but I don’t know exactly how many miles. I’m assuming about 1000 to 1500 but really not sure. I’ve changed the oil once with straight 30wt and a zinc additive. But was looking at the Lucas 10/30 or 10/40. It is supposed to have enough zinc so I wouldn’t have to add it

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Do a few of us agree zinc additive, like lead additive, is not need for these flathead engines?

I too use whatever 10W30 I get at a decent price. Clean engines. Clean internals. Newly rebuilt. Don't over think it.  Any modern oil is better than the oil back in the day, that these engines were engineered to run with.

 

I like Northern California. 10W30 land 8 months of the year. 10W40 in the dog days of summer.

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31 minutes ago, keithb7 said:

Do a few of us agree zinc additive, like lead additive, is not need for these flathead engines?

I too use whatever 10W30 I get at a decent price. Clean engines. Clean internals. Newly rebuilt. Don't over think it.  Any modern oil is better than the oil back in the day, that these engines were engineered to run with.

 

I like Northern California. 10W30 land 8 months of the year. 10W40 in the dog days of summer.

Thank you

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39 minutes ago, keithb7 said:

Do a few of us agree zinc additive, like lead additive, is not need for these flathead engines?

I too use whatever 10W30 I get at a decent price. Clean engines. Clean internals. Newly rebuilt. Don't over think it.  Any modern oil is better than the oil back in the day, that these engines were engineered to run with.

 

I like Northern California. 10W30 land 8 months of the year. 10W40 in the dog days of summer.

At least two of us agree with that.  Mild valve lift rate, low RPM and low valve spring pressures don't require extra zinc IMO.

 

Research the history of zinc additive.  Was not used in the flathead era as far as I can tell.  Heavy OHV trains and higher RPM engines drove the need.

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I use Shell Rotella-T 15-40. Reasonably priced locally. I agree any oil you choose will suffice. Before my internal inspection I ran non-detergant 30w. Engine wasn't sludged up so switched to detergent. 

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All good repllies. Non detergent 30 W was the drink of choice 50 yrs ago. Modern multis detergents are the smart choice. I recently dropped the pan on Booger to extract what goo was in there (very little) now the oil is so freekin clean I can barely see it on the dipstick. Thats a nice looking power plant, Frito

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I got high hopes for the production of a synthetic from the mucus of the hagfish...one 2 foot hag can produce 5 gallons of mucus in minutes.....talk about your endless renewable source...until then dino of your favorite blend....API sets the standards, follow that and you have no real worries.

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More so with a type of grease...Vick's Vapor Rub!

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1 hour ago, Booger said:

All good repllies. Non detergent 30 W was the drink of choice 50 yrs ago. Modern multis detergents are the smart choice. I recently dropped the pan on Booger to extract what goo was in there (very little) now the oil is so freekin clean I can barely see it on the dipstick. Thats a nice looking power plant, Frito

 

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Delete..

Edited by Dodgeb4ya
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3 minutes ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

Vick's was nasty stuff.....but did work for opening sinus....never saw the need/benefit for the castor oil though.  (not to be confused with Castrol)   

It does clear up hagfish mucus...

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18 hours ago, Sniper said:

I use whatever 10w30 oil I find a decent price on, last time it was Castrol GTX.

 

Based on the general hackery I have found in this car I can pretty much guarantee whomever owned it before put whatever oil they found in it.  If sludge was going to be an issue it would have already happened for me.  Zinc issues are more applicable as valve spring pressures increase, that's pretty much an non issue for the weak valve springs our engines have.  It doesn't hurt though.

 

I agree with sniper 10W30.  Whatever is on sale and at CTC ( Canadian Tire)  often you will save up to 30% and sometimes 40% on a 5 litre jug.  I stock up on it every time it comes on sale, whatever brand.  Because I change my oil every 1000 miles. 

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Great photo of your Plymouth...

 

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