Dodgeb4ya

I have seen this wrench in a couple junk yard Dodge trucks including one in a 2-1/2 ton I bought.... Pretty handy...not too sure what all it does or models it's used for.

Using a screw that is too long when attaching the wire to the Sisson unit will cause a dead short to ground. It needs to be a very short screw.

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I forgot I do have 60's MoPar parts books in another bldg. I'm going to check to see if they show the lock washers just to see. I'll post the results tomorrow.

You are probably right. I have seem a lot of lster wngines that use just plain hardened washers or none at all. I'm really only into 1946-54 MoPar cars and trucks. I know those pretty well.

All of my engines used the 1/2" lock washers # 120384 on the main bolts as shown in all my MoPar parts books. I carefully checked this in 1946-1955 truck and car parts books. These being..218/230 ..251/265 ..323 Straight Eights ..306/413 Moly Block Six I just rebuilt the 413 six using sixteen 1/2" lock washers on the main caps as assembled from the factory. Even the 331/354 Hemi's show the same #120384 ten lock washers as being used. So the 251 uses them too. I rebuilt a 251 in my 1948 D

#120384 lock washers on the main cap bolts were used on most all flathead engines thru 1954. This after looking at four different MoPar car and truck parts books. Main cap bolts #864118 was used on most all the 1941-54 flathead six engines also.

All I've ever seen around this area...4.3 rear ends with OD in 50-54 Plymouths. Hilly terrain and mountains 4.3 only way to go.

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All the Chrysler convertible 8 cylinder cars use the small resonator just forward of the rear axle. Reason being the converts use a 30% shorter front muffler that barely fits into the side of the convertible "X" member frame. The exhaust is too noisy with out that resonator. The rare Chrysler Crown Imperial 145" 8 pass sedan and divider window limo's also use the resonator muffler. These models are to only ones to use the resonator.

If that engine is knocking in a serious way or does not sound good don't run my test as I posted above!!!!🤯 I have just heard your short vids.

Do a compression test first thing. Better be good 100lbs all or better. Pull both tappet covers see if it's full of ugly flakey grey and black sludge. Hopefully not. Put the covers back on. Then I'd start that engine up and run it @ 1800-2000 RPM for 30 minutes... Watch temp and oil pressure. Watch coolant level. Listen for any bad engine sounds etc. If it's still smoking after that long of run... ***Rings...if mostly blue smoke and you smell oil fumes and see a oily slime in the tail pipe. ***Gray/white smoke...that does not go away after 10-15 min

I also have never had any serious charging problems with any of my flathead MoPars. The regulators on a couple cars have been replaced with factory Autolite regulators. These generators charge fine when good quality or OE parts are installed.

It would be nice to see stone/water deflector shields available on these disc brake kits.