Dodgeb4ya

If you live in western Washing ton I will pm you. Your needs should be posted in the classifieds though.

Sounds like stuck valves. I would spray some PB Blaster or equilvalent down the spark plug holes...let it soak for awhile....then crank the engine over a few times. Let it soak more...then see if it will start and run on all cylinders. If not you can sometimes push down the intake valves if stuck...carefully. Otherwise pull the tappet covers to try and wedge the stuck valves back down. New sitting engines not run much tend at times to get stuck valves. Is the engine a recent rebuild? Varnished gas also can cause valves to stick almost instantly. Nice car!

The MoPar parts books thru 1954 do show the hold down spring parts being used on 12" brakes up to 1954.

That's odd last year for the hold down kit was 1942...according to EIS.

Generally all the 12" drums/shoes use the hold down springs. All my Chryslers use that setup. Same as what Keith posted. Common on the bigger brakes.

Some possible extra good info... Be careful with that "Y" control valve. Tough to find anywhere and no rebuild parts are available. Early "Y" valves are cast iron but the more common later ones are aluminum and can break off at the head. The picture Donald shows is most likely correct as early cars like your 1946 use more metal tubing than late 1947 on to 48 which use more of the rubber hoses. The routing looks kinda messy compared to the steel tubing set up.

A sad situation on some of this poor quality replacement parts for cars these days. Glad I'm out of the business. I saw it a lot even with supposedly dealer factory OE parts. A lot of returns.

A lot of DIY'ers have pretty small saddle floor jacks. Not really stable enough to safely hold a big bulky transmission and have accurate control of it as it is being removed or installed IMO. There are transmission adapters that mount onto floor jack saddle mount and not really too expensive. Much safer than just using the jack with a strap. It would be a bad day to remove transmission and have it come loose from the floor jack and snip off a finger or break a arm. Yes there are other ways but a first timer getting into serious heavy lifting might better not try the floor jack method on his first trans job. Much safer to remove a M6 with the Fluid drive coupling renting a trans jack. The trans cannot hang in a FD it will damage the bellows seal assembly. Yes there are some Chinese garbage ones that are about worthless...but safer than a floor jack. I used to rent a trans jack when I was 16 after having a trans come out and land on my hand. I am just posting on safety referring not to do like the video showed. And yes there are other ways...but you do need total control when the trans comes out and goes back in... easily.

You really need to remove the heavy GyroMatic transmission using a transmission jack so you don't end up with a damaged transmission or body! A floor jack is a fools way to pull a heavy trans which is what is in your Dodge. The video proves that🥴! So...some tips. **Remove the lower bell housing cover first...then look up between the fluid drive coupling and the rear main cap to be sure your engine has six small bolts holding the rear main seal plates to the block....if so read the rest of this. If there are no small bolts retaining the rear main seal plates your rear main seal is inside the engine under the rear main cap....the trans doesn't need to be removed to replace that style of seal....but the oil pan has to come off. Your original engine should have the external type seal though. So....onward to the next step **Before pulling out the trans...The FD clutch driven plate should have four equally spaced small wooden support wedges pushed in by hand between it and the Fluid Drive coupling to prevent the clutch driven plate from excess lateral movement. This step protects the internal somewhat delicate bellows seal and graphite seal ring. Now after removing the trans wiring under the pass floor access cover you can pull the transmission straight out...slowly and carefully. **Next remove the throw out bearing, clutch pressure plate and disc. **Then the fluid drive coupling needs to be removed....eight nuts bolt it to the crankshaft...a long special wrench generally is used to remove the nuts. Access is tight. The fluid coupling is very heavy and awkward to pull off the crank. If you have never pulled one off you better be ready ....it's very heavy...don't drop it. Now you have some access to the two piece rear main seal...that's another whole story.. Re-doing the rear main seal plates properly with the original asbestos rope would be difficult for a first timer . The retainer plates have to be spread/opened up. New ropes installed and carefully rolled into the plates....the plates squeezed back semi tight on the rope seals ...assembled seal plates test fitted to the crank for sealing fit and feel. Maybe two three four times... Then trim the rope ends just right... This is a technical job that a lot of care and knowledge is required to have 100% sucess. The car needs to be on a lift or jacked up and supported safely. Then the job is all done! Simple? Naw🥵 Give it a whirl...have some fun and learn! Okay I threw my thoughts in..

These Mopar transmissions more than likely didn't grind back in the days when in good condition. But at least there is a synthetic liquid fix it appears so far.

Now what about the later R10 overdrive transmissions?....some say absolutely no synthetic lubes 😕

Too bad ebay sellers are now so greedy...three name plates on there ..$150.00 to over $300.00

Mig welding using C25 gas and wire is set up DC current- reverse polarity. Gun+..positive....work-..negative. No AC doing the mig process.🙂

There was also a pinion bearing angle change in 1951 too.

Optional B-3 Squirrel hide drying rack.