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Dodgeb4ya last won the day on October 9

Dodgeb4ya had the most liked content!

About Dodgeb4ya

  • Rank
    Zen Master, I breathe vintage mopar!
  • Birthday 08/11/1952

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Woodieville, Wash
  • Interests
    Restoring cars, trucks, heavy equipment, welding ,fabrication of many things, helping people on projects and more!
  • My Project Cars
    1946 NewYorker Straight "8" 3 Passenger Cpe. / 1952 Imperial 3 Passenger 331 Hemi Cpe/ 1948 and 1950 Chrysler Town and Country woodies/ 1950 Chrysler woodie wagon/ Several Dodge trucks..dually 1 ton PU to 3 and 4 tonners....306/377 and 413 sixes.

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Been into the Flathead Mopars since 1968.Have 15 Mopars up to 1953.
  • Occupation
    To keep all of the above running!


  • Location
    Woodieville Wa. Part of the Great Northwest!
  • Interests
    Old Mopar-Cars,Trucks and old AC and Massey equipment.

Recent Profile Visitors

8,359 profile views
  1. Here in the Seattle area I have tried a couple times to gave a special sized brake hose custom made for a MoPar Brake Autostop. No one would do any "DOT" brake hose work. Liability iissue. That was 30 years ago. Never bothered to try again.☹
  2. Hopefully a local full service truck/brake shop can do this for you.. Brake and clutch in Seattle does it for our area. I do my own with the proper machine.. Lucky me. Search this site for ways to do it yourself by hand. Arcing car brake linings was common... not so much anymore... fixed anchor shoes require it for quick wear in of brake shoes and for a high hard pedal. Or you can just drive the car and let the linings wear in and keep adjusting them up over a couple thousand miles. The pedal will keep getting better after you keep doing the minor adjustment.
  3. Don't forget to arc each of the shoes to fit each drum. .006" toe and heel clearance. If the lining radius does not match the drum ...soft brake pedal no matter if you do have the Miller or Ammco adjusting tools.
  4. Gee Paul.... I thought we had a deal and I was going to get the truck😹
  5. Leave the OD in the cpe and then you could easily sell it.
  6. Dodge never used HL relays probably till the 90's or later in the import chassis cars.
  7. That's not being carbon nuetral here in Washington State....our governor Inslee would say..... bad bad bad😁 Plus it's not necessary with the right puller and technique. JMO.
  8. I have never had to use heat either and wouldn't.
  9. No rush to pull the drums... just get them off. That's what I have done for over 50 years. Shop guys cannot wait a day or more for a MoPar,Rambler or Ford drum to decide to pop if ever. It's the life of a mechanic. I realize Hobbiest's have lots of time to wait for the drums to let go after a day two or three if ever. There is no abusing of tools or drum hubs using "enough" needed force to remove tapered hub drums. A lot of people on this forum have no idea how much force is required to remove these drums let alone how hard to hit the puller with a correct weight
  10. Absolute conversions... No factory twin carb/exhaust trucks were offered till 1950. Twin carbs first started in the Dodge 377 ci. 4 ton model trucks. The only 25" factory twin carb/ cast iron headers DT engine was the 265 starting in 1953. None before 1953.
  11. You need to hit the dog bone harder using a 2-4 lb hammer. Hit it hard...harder...harder..harder maybe 20 times or more...then again harder harder.. That little Dodge drum will come right off.
  12. Twin carb 30" engines started in the middle of 1950 and continued thru 1955. Found only in the heavy 3-4 ton trucks. Dodge also produced the 25" twin carb 265 engine starting in 1953 found only in the 2-1/2 ton "K" model trucks thru 1956 or 57. Any of the twin carb engines are low production.
  13. The drums will come off...just need the right puller.. .. be mean and strong...pop goes the weasel...off comes the drum! 😁
  14. Can we see your installed puller..?
  15. C- series pickups use rear cross member donut style mounts...same as say a p15.
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