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Dodgeb4ya

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Dodgeb4ya last won the day on November 1

Dodgeb4ya had the most liked content!

About Dodgeb4ya

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Woodieville, Wash
  • Interests
    Restoring cars, trucks, heavy equipment, welding ,fabrication of many things, helping people on projects and more!
  • My Project Cars
    1946 NewYorker Straight "8" 3 Passenger Cpe. / 1952 Imperial 3 Passenger 331 Hemi Cpe

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Been into the Flathead Mopars since 1968.Have 15 Mopars up to 1953.
  • Occupation
    To keep all of the above running!

Converted

  • Location
    Woodieville Wa. Part of the Great Northwest!
  • Interests
    Old Mopar-Cars,Trucks and old AC and Massey equipment.

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. The trucks use a Midland single diaphram frame mounted booster. I cannot remember the model number. I think Fords used the same on some of their trucks.
  2. Sniper.....I have my way of starting old mopars that sit extended periods over time that works just fine and has for many years. Nothing is wrong with any of my 25 or more carbs. Cars/trucks that sit extended amounts of time generally do not start and run with just one two gentle soft accelerator pedal pumps. My advice was given for just this situation. No fuel in the carb....getting it full of fuel without killing the battery or starter.....getting the intake manifold wetted with enough fuel charge so the engine will start and and keep running 1st try.
  3. Replacement parts for the old car market don't get placed high in the quality department.😟
  4. The reason to crank and wait is to save the starter and battery. The pump now has some vacuum and pressure built up causing the fuel continue to flow up through the fuel line and to the carburetor. This from residual vacuum and pressure created by the pump that was just pumping. ..then you pump the throttle 5-10 time to wet the intake manifold..that should make the engine fire off. Might have to do another 2-3 pumps again and the engine should start and continue to run. hopefully....it works on my cars.
  5. The new pumps have the typical modern type sleeved sealed bearing and shaft that is not serviceable. I pressed this new failed pump apart to see what type of bearings were in it.. Though these modern WP bearing and shaft assemblies should withstand high side loads I have no reason as to why the pump started to fail (make noise). I have installed hundreds of water pumps in my line of work over the years. I no not to tighten the Gen too tight. I did learn to use mostly OEM factory water pumps.
  6. Yes..the booster has failed and brake.fluid is being sucked into the intake manifold when you apply the brakes. I had one suck all the brake fluid out of the M/cyl while driving...complete loss of brakes🤯
  7. I just replaced a new Gates WP... Didn't last 300 miles..The bearing started making noise.I put another Chinese pump on the Plymouth. Hope this import pump lasts 1000 miles. One came from O'Reilly's...one from Napa.
  8. Are the cars sitting for a couple weeks or more before starting?. Possible fuel evap and drain back. To help that.. Crank the engine for 30 seconds..stop cranking.....wait 5-10 minutes....crank again while pumping the gas pedal 5-10 times.. Engine should fire.
  9. Wow! Three weeks of winter...I am so jealous☹ Not here in the Great Northwest Three months of winter.
  10. Hi Dodgeb4ya. Couple months ago I bought a 51 Coronet. Tried for a couple months to get the engine to move with some methods read here with no luck. So I wanted to thank you for the trick of driving the dowel pins into the bellhousing. This is gonna make it much easier getting the clutch off. I'm a rookie. Thanks

  11. 2 hours at most anyway ya do it. Git her done!😁
  12. Yes...I now see the spring brackets don't line up with the doubled frame reinforcement cross braces They can be tough to remove sometimes. You also could unbolt one bracket at a time and let it flop up by lowering the frame to drive the pin out.
  13. That pulley looks like someone used a drift or wedge to try to remove or straighten the pulley...you might want to check that it's not bent and wobbly.
  14. There should be a hole on the backside of the pin...drive it out with no weight on the pin... This is the tool that is used to do the job....good luck finding one
  15. On my 1950 chryslers I don't generally use the hood release handle...I found it quicker and easier to reach thru the grille and pull the cable. Just the way I've done it for years. A 49 Chrysler not possible😕
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