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Plymouthy Adams

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  1. Plymouthy Adams's post in Mystery bracket on frame, left rear, in front of wheel (Panhard rod bracket?) was marked as the answer   
    you in luck, have this one in the shop lying about for easy photographing.

  2. Plymouthy Adams's post in Electrical and engine - New Yorker 47 was marked as the answer   
    per the description of the cluster and bulb arrangements and per the schematic you have listed and followed, there is but one single wire going to that bulb...it comes direct from the P terminal of the flasher....perhaps you have a bad flasher.  It is not uncommon to get a bad 3 prong flasher as most are not made well today.
  3. Plymouthy Adams's post in 1940 Plymouth tail-light question was marked as the answer   
  4. Plymouthy Adams's post in E Mail. was marked as the answer   
    Billy, at top right of page is your name, click on your name, go to Settings.....click on Acccount settings, go to e=mail, click on change.....enter new address....
  5. Plymouthy Adams's post in 1949 Plymouth Special Deluxe Won't start when engine hot was marked as the answer   
    I think I said it first in post 12 and I will stick with this based on your description of the series of events...now if you left out some other important facts.....then we back to TS101
  6. Plymouthy Adams's post in Engine size was marked as the answer   
    well I said no....I need to go further... it can be other but it will be based on what a previous owner may have done to the internals of your stock engine and may have taken it to a 251 CI engine...….thus it is ALWAYS important with any of these engines to verify the stroke before saying you have this or that.....
  7. Plymouthy Adams's post in Hub Caps D-24 was marked as the answer   
    9 inch caps were for use without any additional dressing rings that would simulate a full hub cap when installed.....10 in caps were used in conjuction with these rings as they were wide enough to help clamp the ring and hide the dividing line
  8. Plymouthy Adams's post in Chassis number was marked as the answer   
    the chassis number at the rear axle tip up drivers side will be the same as that of the original engine number.....
  9. Plymouthy Adams's post in New 1950 dodge Truck to me was marked as the answer   
    washers are needed if stud mounted.....the inner washer hole is the diameter of the shock eye...the outer washer hole is the diameter of the retaining shoulder....being cupped washer with the above hole profile allow full clamping force of the nut and yet does not over clamp and distort the grommet on the shock...
  10. Plymouthy Adams's post in 48 P-15 Frame Stub was marked as the answer   
    pre 49 car and the Dakota is not that simple but then again not that hard...you will need the time, space and equipment to do this work....to think it will just cut and fit is a mistake...many things go into making this set up work..consider these few items before you plunge....front bumper hanging is a major weld and fabrication for safety sake...steering will entail late model column or major rework of stock unit..engine cradle is too far forward and requires major modification left and right mounts refardless if 6 or 8 donor....your original frame is tapered for this year and thus the later Dak is best suited..however you are 6 lugs on this setup..prepare to brunt that change cost and application...be prepared to make serious changes to you original frame to be able to receive the later clip, watch rotor size (donor year app)..this will dictate the rim diameter you can run.  Suggest taking firewall and front floor pan of donor for grafting this is a necessity if you using the donor components for total upgrade.  Inner fenders will require total rework if you desire a closed compartment alsong with the rad support frame and the batwings not to mention hood support if you wish to hang AC condenser forward of the forward mounted radiator.....one thing is a plus going this method..the frames when joined properly will continue the original center line, original body mounts can be reused when you measure from the stock frame trammel points forward..and the stance is just about 3/4 lower with the Dak in the front...adds to nice rake..cost of the Dak..very little compared to the Fatman..don not forget that the Fatman base IFS is as you said a good 2500.00 you have to add the Fatman front frame stubs to this and again all the welding as I mentioned with the Dak comes into play..a feature not usually advertised up front.
    for simplicity...the front suspension of the older Plymouth is still very much capable today...you may want to revisit the R&P, disc and shock relocation of your original frame....you may be miles ahead..not sure of your local wrecking parts prices and availability..but your estimated1000.00 is probably fair but you get all new parts for the brakes this method...you will be able to keep your stock rims and hubcap look also..think hard before you start..no turning back when you cut..... Now if you just got to be different and go Dak...grab it good luck...it is very much doable...quite an enjoyable venture..be honest with you....it is quite involved, not hard, just involved..but the DIY reward is most satisfying...
  11. Plymouthy Adams's post in Frame off question? was marked as the answer   
    your call...the body will move with welding heat..a bit outside of aircraft rivet operations...I personally do not remove the body till at minimum the rockers are solid inside and out and to do that I also do not remove the doors as this is your test alignment during the operation.  ensure you hinge pins are good...no wear/slop and then adjust your door within the opening for the gaps that you wish..if you have sag now ensure you do not have a buckle at the roof and align front and top gaps of door and adjust your rocker with jacks or braces of your design or choice so to maintain the gaps you are wishing to achieve..afterwards adjust your striker to ensure smooth operation...once set up..you can remove the striker for ease of opening and closing during the process to verify that you are staying aligned during the replacement of metal..other folks have other ways of doing this I am sure but this has served me well in a number of full inner and out rocker repairs..many may respond with other methods..pick what may suit you the best..keeping the car in a fixed position during the repair is important...do one side at a time...
  12. Plymouthy Adams's post in P15 was marked as the answer   
    needs be moved to classifieds
  13. Plymouthy Adams's post in Driveshaft pinion yoke was marked as the answer   
    the 66 is a 8 3/4 axle and there are three pinion sizes for that axle for various HP applications  this is the very first I have heard of this interchange...would be great to have a link to your talking paper/article stating this retrofit....do you have a source for this information?  If so you will have to know what axle case they were using as each gear is a different input shaft diameter for the 8 3/4  
  14. Plymouthy Adams's post in New to the Hobby - Questions was marked as the answer   
    that is not a process...those are specification one sets their engine to when doing the tune up...I would start with a fresh set of points, condenser and set these with a dwell meter if you can..being new however you should get by with a feeler gauge if you got a good eye and feel with the gauges in your hand.  A tachometer would be nice along with a vacuum gauge in balancing out he carb and you really need to see if your distributor is functioning both mechanical and vacuum advance along with setting the timing with a timing light...you will need a well marked damper/pulley for the degrees to be read or at minimum a timing light with this feature built in so to read the total advance mechanical and also vacuum..vacuum hand pump makes this an easy check and be sure your vacuum gauge is T'ed into the pump line so you know what advance you get at x vacuum as per specifications for that model distributor.  Also you need to know your plug wire condition..you can read these with a meter based on length if carbon style..if wire make sure the insulation is not breaking down and allowing cross fire in the loom from the distributor.  Read your cap and rotor for specs and if questionable replace if needed..be sure you get these parts per your dist ID number as if you mix and match you will never run on the highway.  Make sure your air cleaner is also properly serviced and clean with clean oil..should be part of the tune up  and if you have changed to a paper filter....hopefully it is of a style and size not to restrict air flow...check your coil for leakage inside the secondary tower and replace if oil is present...
    to further enchance your tune up a valve adjust would be good but as you were running good and then poof you were not..I am looking at the points being nasty, high resistance and or a failed condenser...with a failed condenser or nasty points you can run at idle and actually rev no load and seem fine..under load it breaks down and you thing everything in the world had now gone wrong at once...ok...now next point
    if all this sounds strange to you, you do not have the proper tools etc..find a friend with said knowledge/tools and let him walk you through a tune up..be time well spent....and while it is nice to ask questions....you have two ears, two eyes and one mouth..twice as important to listen and see during training time that to open ones mouth..not trying to be harsh but this is a process that must be done right to ensure optimum performance from you car and your money when buying said tune up parts...take notes also if you get aide from a seasoned techie
  15. Plymouthy Adams's post in Rear Spring Shackles was marked as the answer   
    I can think of no reason you will need to cut these...they unbolt and separate so easily...Advance Auto also has new bushings on an overnight if not in stock...even at last resort, they can easily be made if needed...as you can see by Coatney's picture of his..the center spacer was needed as the originals are shoulder bolts...they are designed to lock at X-dimension...therefore not over compressing the bushings...not complicate..no need to over thingk this at all...drop the bumper bracket and let the big dog eat...
  16. Plymouthy Adams's post in Bias Ply Tire ? was marked as the answer   
    Fred..go buy some good tires and get it over with ...you will save money in the long run...
  17. Plymouthy Adams's post in Window Fuzzy Install was marked as the answer   
    on the flex channel you have bead in and out and outside choice of stainless reveal...on the glass anti-rattle outside and inside fuzzy strips you will want to mount bead down as this is the actual lip the substitute clip will lock to when installing making the piece a snap in item as was the factory only in a slight variation of clip style....but of course your method of attachment may be different...as some like to glue these pieces in position...do ensure the glass in in the car prior..(some variations of the exterior bead is double beaded and this often recommended for install as you can have an outside stainless reveal with this also..)
  18. Plymouthy Adams's post in Radiator And Heater Hoses Dimensions was marked as the answer   
    usually they are 5/8 inch standard hose size BUT....why not just measure the nipples and be sure...it is really not that hard...I say measure because over the years one has no idea if a PO has done any altering of any kind
  19. Plymouthy Adams's post in Need Carb Guru Helb was marked as the answer   
    big difference in revving an engine without a load than maintain speed under load..the smaller jet may be your culprit....lets see..230 divided by 6 is 38.3 per cylinder and 272 divided by 8 is 34 per cylinder ... while this is not absolute math or fuel ratio compression formula but given rule of thumb..you need x air and x fuel by volume...so the larger jet is needed
  20. Plymouthy Adams's post in Door Rubber Search was marked as the answer   
    The PM I sent you sourced three supplier in the order of what I have found to be better fit.  IF you were to look at the Rest. Specs. online catalog you will find that all the 50-56 Dodge, Plymouth, Chrylser, Desoto and Packard (body by Briggs 30-56) use the same door rubber..even some Ford Linc. and Mercs..50-54..
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