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Sniper

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  1. Sniper's post in Emergency/Parking Brake was marked as the answer   
    I had a similar issue, here's the thread, might help.
     
     
  2. Sniper's post in 1950 Plymouth P20 6volt Positive Ground - No Spark when Engine Cranks Over was marked as the answer   
    this is your problem.  Looks like the ignition switch is defective.
     
    As a testing option, you can jump the - terminal on the coil to the - post on the battery and try to start it.  If is start up and runs you have verified it.
     
    In this circuit the voltage to the coil in start and in run comes from two different internal positions in the ignition switch, the connection on the switch and the wiring are the same. 
     
  3. Sniper's post in Front Shocks for my '54 Suburban was marked as the answer   
    Correct, both ends.  I just finished installing them.  Clean the old rubber off the mounting studs, mine left bits behind.  Torque the nut down till it bottoms. 
     
     
  4. Sniper's post in On my original master cylinder, installing a combination valve ? was marked as the answer   
    A combination valve is designed to work with disc/drum combos.  One of the functions it performs is hold off, that's where it blocks pressure to the front brakes till a set point is reached then allows front brake pressure to pass.  This is to allow the drums in the rear to take up the shoe to drum clearance before it allows the discs to apply, this is to ensure all four brakes apply simultaneously.  In our all drum setups the brake adjustment sets the clearances equally and the take up is automatic at all four corners. 
     
    Another function is proportioning.  Proportioning is where the valve slows the rate of brake pressure increase to the rear drums in a self energizing drum setup, you do not have that setup.  The reason for this slowing is that self energizing drums, by design, use leverage to increase the apply braking force and without decreasing the rate of pressure apply the rears can lock up before the fronts.  In an all drum setup, either self energizing or not, the rate of braking force increase is the same at all four corners and proportioning is handled by drum, shoe and/or wheel cylinder sizing. 
     
    All you need is a distribution block with a built in warning light setup to do what you want.  Such as Right Stuff Detailing PV11.  But these are usually setup for two lines out to the front brakes.
  5. Sniper's post in gear oil gone wild was marked as the answer   
    They do make a pump specifically for this job, I bought it at the parts store I got my gear oil from.  Screws into the bottle.  Also, setting the bottle of gear oil out in the sun to warm up while you prep really helps, if it's winter a bucket of hot water does it.
     
    Example pump
     
    https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_19191
     
     
  6. Sniper's post in I'm wrong - Clutch Release bearing was marked as the answer   
    Using Timken interchange https://www.collectivebearings.com/pdf/timken-bearing-cross-reference-guide.pdf
     
    MRC 316TN332  is Timken 1872
     
    Specs are here https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=218338&pt=1968&jsn=259
  7. Sniper's post in Spark plugs recommendations was marked as the answer   
    Not sure what brands are available in Sweden, but RockAuto shows several brands and part numbers, all of which should fit.  You might be able to cross one of these numbers to something locally available.  I run the Autolite 306 plugs in my engine, which is also called for your engine.  It's a resistor type plug with a 3/8" reach.
     
    https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chrysler,1947,new+yorker,5.3l+324cid+l8,1486585,ignition,spark+plug,7212
  8. Sniper's post in Travellin’ Riverside Blues - More Fuel Problems was marked as the answer   
    Maybe it's the angle of the hill binding up your float?
     
    I venture to guess it gets much hotter here than where you are yet I have zero issues with hot starting or fuel issues when hot.  Lat year I drove it in 110+ degrees F with no issues.   
     
    I run whatever pump gas there is, usually Shell brand, says up to 10% ethanol. 
     
    I would take a very close look at your float action, angling the carb to see if it binds.  My thinking is that if it were heat related it'd happen on the flat too.  Maybe whack the carb when it does this and see if it stops flooding. 
  9. Sniper's post in First time Headgasket replacement was marked as the answer   
    Scroll down a bit to teh head gasket info
     
    http://www.moparmontana.com/tech-faq.html
     
     
  10. Sniper's post in Need a carburetor was marked as the answer   
    How did you wire the choke?
     
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