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Doug&Deb

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    216
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About Doug&Deb

  • Rank
    Junior Member, just joined the forum !

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • My Project Cars
    1952 Dodge Coronet

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Middle aged Grandfather and car nut.
  • Occupation
    Machinist

Converted

  • Location
    Pennsylvania
  • Interests
    Cars and grandkids

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  1. Okay here’s what I found out. The inlet on the needle and seat is 1/8-27 npt. The kit comes with a brass nipple that screws into the inlet and you have to supply a female thread adapter to mate up to the fuel line. The problem is with the 49-52 cars because of the heater box. There just isn’t enough room to make a 90 degree bend. I ended up kinking the line and it leaked when I started the car. I’ve installed a 90 degree male adapter directly into the inlet. Now I just have to make an L shaped line to the pump. That’s tomorrow’s project.
  2. Yes it’s the needle and seat. I’ll try after work to see what I can find. I’m running into a space problem. There’s not much room between the carb and the heater box as is. An adapter is going to make it even tighter. Maybe I can find a 90. We’ll see.
  3. I’ve emailed him. It’s a smaller thread than the 1/2-20 that is normal for a double flared line. I’ll figure something out.
  4. Anyone know the thread size on the fuel inlet on the carb doctor’s kit? It’s not the standard size for a 5/16 line. The line from the fuel pump to the carb won’t work. The kit is ck429 for a stromberg bxves-3.
  5. I believe it’s 3/4-16
  6. I rebuilt the steering box on my D24 some years ago. Getting the box out of the car was harder than the rebuild lol. I’m not a good mechanic by any stretch so you will be fine.
  7. You are a brave man. That’s quite a project! It will be well worth it when finished. Good luck and keep us posted.
  8. I had mine done 20 years ago and I believe it was 60 to do just the inside and 100 or so to totally restore inside and out. Never any problem.
  9. I did rebuild the carb last spring. I’m almost positive I got the balls in the correct spots. I don’t have the instructions anymore unfortunately. The carb is a stromberg bxves. The car is a 52 coronet. The carb kit is ethanol resistant but I don’t recall the vendor I got it from.
  10. I’m not sure but I believe it’s either 1/2 or 3/4 pipe thread both of which are tapered thread. It’s something you can find in any hardware store.
  11. Ok now I’m confused. I’ve been having some drivability issues with my Coronet. It seems to be running rich. I checked the float level and it seems way too low. Normally the fuel air mixture screw is backed out 1-2 turns. Mine is a 1/4 turn. Any more and I stall the car. When I coast down a hill then accelerate I’m blowing a nasty fuel and oil cloud. I’m missing something but what?
  12. Thanks. I rebuilt the carb last year with an ethanol resistant kit. I have had either vapor lock or percolation on occasion. I’ll try dropping the float and see what happens.
  13. I’ve seen many references to lowering the float in the carb to compensate for ethanol. My question is how much lower?
  14. Some like the looks of old cars but want the modern conveniences. That’s the appeal of restomods. Myself I want to experience the feel of what it was like to drive the car back in the day. To each his own. There is room for everyone in the hobby.
  15. Is a cable going from that to the starter? If so it’s the starter solenoid . They are readily available.
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