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About Doug&Deb

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    Junior Member, just joined the forum !

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  • My Project Cars
    1952 Dodge Coronet

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  • Biography
    Middle aged Grandfather and car nut.
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  • Interests
    Cars and grandkids

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  1. Of course I’m still not sure how to drain and refill should I ever decide to. I’m going to at least do a slippage test and perhaps top off the unit. I’m inclined to agree with James Douglas about these units. He’s done more research than anyone I know. New fluid can’t be a bad thing. I do however know my mechanical limitations.
  2. Just out of curiosity does anyone know what size magnetic socket for the fill plug on the fluid drive unit? I’d like to at least check if it needs topped off.
  3. I’m inclined to agree. That explains why the service manual doesn’t cover a service process. I’ll just keep driving it till it goes boom.
  4. So to service the fluid drive unit do I remove the clutch inspection cover then rotate the drain plug straight down? The service manual really doesn’t explain the procedure. After draining rotate the drain plug to the correct angle and refill to the top. Sound right? I’ve topped off the unit but after 7 years of ownership a refill with fresh fluid seems like a good idea.
  5. I’m sure whatever you do will be done properly. These cars were driven cross country when they were new so with everything rebuilt you should have no issues. If you can figure out how to rebuild the fluid drive unit you’ll be helping a lot of us that have them. Keep us posted.
  6. Since a new pump isn’t overly expensive now would be a good time to upgrade to one that’s ethanol resistant. May not fix the problem but cheap insurance.
  7. I just used the same kit. I used a 90 degree fitting. Male end is 1/8-27 pipe thread and female is inverted flare. I faced the inverted flare straight down and made a new fuel line to the pump. I found the fitting at O’Reilly Auto Parts. If you try a straight adapter you won’t have room between the carb and the heater box. Trust me I tried. If you can’t find a fitting with a male end a female end will work with the pipe nipple included in the kit.
  8. That would work. However it wouldn’t be as accurate as the proper tool. Also the shoes need arced to the drums. It’s worth trying though. These brakes are a bugger to adjust.
  9. Had you just changed oil? I’ve mis seated the gasket on the filter and made a real mess more than once. How about the drain plug? I used a plastic washer on the plug instead of copper and it caused the plug to constantly loosen.
  10. I think it’s important to remember that 10W non detergent oil was originally used. The important thing is to change the oil frequently. Of course I’m the one that’s overdue for an oil change in my trans so I’m a good one to talk about frequent oil changes. I’m going to try the AV32 hydraulic oil and see how it works. I believe it’s the same thing as the floor jack oil I’ve been using for the past 7 years.
  11. Trans. I’m overdue for a fluid change.
  12. Is ISO 32 hydraulic oil what others are using in the M6 trans? I’ve used floor jack oil in the past with no problems but I have access to hydraulic oil at work so I’m just wondering.
  13. Stupid question but did you back off adjusters for both shoes on each side? Sounds like an adjustment problem but check for leaking wheel cylinders also. Check the technical archive for information on how to make an adjustment tool. The correct tool is almost impossible to find.
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