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greg g

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Everything posted by greg g

  1. Seems the pull in circuit should be momentary, it should open when the hold in points get closed when that circuit takes over. It should disconnect the high Amp circuit when the lower amp hold in circuit is engaged. I have never noticed any big fluctuations on the Amp gauge during OD operation. I do not have a kick down switch, but that shouldn't effect the internal works within the solenoid.
  2. Take a look at allpar.com use search word transmissions. There is a good article describing the care and feeding of hydrives. One give away on the later modele hydrives was a shift quadrant on the steering column. Good luck and welcome. The Canadian Dodges were rebadged and retried Plymouth bodies. While you are on allpar, search exports for some interesting reading on various ways Chrysler Corp. handled different brands in different country's. Somefolks refer to the Canadian cars as Plodges.
  3. Boy, Walter P et al sure got their money's worth out of those stamping tools. Didn't realize they got 6 years out of them. Especially with all the longer, wider, lower styling of the period.
  4. Had excellent results with ac 45r. The same set has been in my 56 plymouth 230 since the rebuild 45000 miles ago. I have checked the gap 3 or 4 times. When I last gapped them they still looked like they did at 5000 miles. I set my timing by vacuum gauge, according to the timing marks it running 5 or 6 degrees btc. My compression ratio.is 8.7 to 1 with milling the head and decking the block. My last set of champions in the 218 were j10. They put on a neat light show after dark. Spark traveled down carbon tracks on the outside of the porcelain caused by carbon blowby from leaking when they partially fires on power stroke. Never tried autolite in the Plymouth, but have spoken to others that run and like them.
  5. Which would explain the French on the tags as French is one of Belgium's three recognized languages. Most exports seem to have 25 inch long heads so that would be helpful to know. I think that is a 53 plymouth body though. Some subtle changes were made on US cars between 53 and 54 but don't think the exports got them. That body style was used in Austrailia and sold as a 56. I believe Chryslet sent the bodystamping tools down under in 55. And after stamping out the basic sheet metal for two years they were pretty worn out. Doubt that Antwerp was a full manufacturing facility. More likely it was a "knockdown assembly facility where imported parts became Belgian Dodges. As mentioned the Allpar.com website has a large section covering exports, knockdowns, over seas production facilities. You might want to visit there and use exports as the search word. Chrysler had facilities in Central and South America, Britain, Turkey, South Africa, Australia, and a couple others, where determined by Customs taxes and our duties the arrived as full cars, knockdown, or parts to be assembled into cars. Looks like a neat start to a project. As you are in the Netherlands, one of this Forums members and a partner have a business sourcing cars and parts for European customers. Checkout their website RDUSACLASSICS.COM. Marcel is the fellow in Rotterdam, they would be a good resource for you when you need to get parts.
  6. Sad news. I will miss Frank's insights and comments. Condolences to his family and friends.
  7. If you are l9oking for specific details from owners of other 56 mopars, you might want to register on the forward look website and forum. Not another of use have much experience with v8s and other fancy new stuff. But hey, it's a Plymouth.
  8. You need to post up some pictures of the transmission from both sides and not too close. We need to see where the cable attaches, and what if any iassemblies are attached and what wiring exists going to the transmission.
  9. The guy who rebuiltmy 56 230 sited what he called rhe 80% rule. This was what he defined as being found long stroke engines, those of 4 1/2 inch and more. This states that sustained cruising rpm that is near 80% of factory peak horsepower rpm is OK. So if you go to an online gearing calculator, put in your tire overall diameter, your final drive ratio, and check for rpm, you can get close to 80% of 3600, you are good to go. My car has 4:11 rear-end, 27.75 diameter tires. The calculator puts that at 3300 rpm, which is 65 indicated, 62 on gps. Operating temp is170, oil pressure is 42 psi. At that speed, I can drive all day, but I am more concerned with brakes and idiots than I am about wind noise, fan noise and tire noise. Your experience may vary... We have taken several 500 mile plus road trips over the years with no mechanical issues except for a broken fan belt. Chrysler engineers used to pull random engines from the assembly line, hook them to a waterbrake dyno and run them at 4000 rpm for 24 hours against a load as quality control process. So you can judge for yourself what strain you want to go up against. I have often wondered what happened to those dynoed engines, did they get retruned to be rebuilt, or did they go back to the assembly line? Conventional wisdom seems to indicate that operation above 3600, leads to expensive noises from the engine lower rotating parts. The oiling route is cam centric rather than main and rod bearing centric. You may be the exception, but most would recommend against steady state 70 mph operation. Keep us posted.
  10. Puppy house breaking pads in addition to the cookie sheet works well for both main seal and transmission seal leaks. When first deployed they need some scrap wood or metal weights to keep the fan from blowing them around. When I had a problem with my 46 p15 engine, I took it to a shop who's owner is a collector. He employed a fellow who was a mechanic at the shop when it was a Desoto dealership. He was 88 when he worked on the engine. He removed the crank, sent it across country. It was turned, spraywelded, turned to stock spec. Installed with fresh rope seals. Still leaked. My current 56 motor was checked, specd stock, installed with new style neoprene seals. Leaks slightly. This engine needs a pint of oil at 500 to 600 miles. Needs trans lube topped up once a season. This when we put 3 to 4 thousand miles a year. So I calling that as good as it gets, and turning a blind eye on leaks till they get worse. Except from containing drippage in the garage. Like old Harleys and British cars, if they aren't leaking, they may be empty...check fluid levels prior to start up.
  11. Tech sez if you havent signed up yet,you might need to check and advance yer timing. Get ready for September. Consult yer manual, do the trouble shooting, and get yer reservations taken care of. You don't want to stumble or hesitate. Power up. Register now.
  12. They handled well to a point, then they didn't and were nearly impossible to recover. I have seen the later ones turned into great autocross cars. I had a friend in college who drove an 80 horse cheapest model 1963. One day he asked me to help him do a drive train swap from the 80 horse three speed to a 150 horse turbo 4 speed. While doing that we added the spring thing and a rear sway bar to the early simple swing axel. It became a very quick and readable car. Another friend had a later 66 corsa with the fixed rear suspension. That car was a joy to drive. It still had a snap out oversteer problem at the limit from the rear weight bias, but if you knew where it was it was easy to avoid even in spirited driving. I think on the 63 suspension we added some limiting straps that mostly cured the tuck under in the simple swing axle. I remember Triumph spitfire had the same rear suspension tuck under with the swing axle set up. They solve theirs by adding outer u joints and tevised lower control arms. If operated reasonably at moderate speed or out on the highway it should serve her well. I believe the purpose was to prevent or limit the unloaded axle drop down so it didn't tuck under during emergency maneuvers, it didn't do any thing to reduce the weight bias over steer deal so you still need to be aware of that.
  13. Good reason to be excited. I swapped to an od. 3300 rpm at 60 is now 2400. Much less strain the engine and still plenty of torque for most highway hills. Goodluck on refreshing it. Member Mark Duggan refreshed one a few years ago, he probably can steer you towards parts sources and maybe some tips and things to look out for.
  14. Bob double check the step up valves. If they aren't getting proper vacuum signal they are likely hanging open. Remember the engine is pumping the same amount od air as it did breathing through one carb, with duals each carb is not flowing about half the flow. This also supplies to the vacuum signal developed by that flow. Years back member Bob vanbuskirk was having issues with black smoke, and poor mileage. He found his step up valve was stuck wide open. Freed up and provided with the correct vacuum signal the problem resolved. I think normal vacuum with one carb is 20 to 21 inches, dual carbs will drop that to 17 to 19, so your step ups have less pull on their springs
  15. Maybe some insurance company will come up with Range Anxiety Coverage for when your tesla is coming up on 220 miles and it says the next charging station is 30 miles away. If you need a tow to the charging station, and have expenses for things required during the recharge interval, you file a claim to get reimbursed for those costs. Or you could carry a portable solar recharge unit, deploy it on the shoulder of the road, and chill for three hours till you are back to 30% and go to the next charging station at 20 mph. Or some one will come up with a booster box that will give you 20 miles at mph. Or maybe those suitcase scooters from the 50s will make a return, or you could tow a King Midget.. Or I saw something about a company that is rebuilding nissan leafs to give them 400 miles and 2hr recharge to 60%. Then there is that diesel recharge trailer that tesla sends with their media demo teams.
  16. Need to get you to sign up for the P15 Picnic Tour. In Sept in NH.
  17. Give me a shout next time you head to Syracuse, I will swing by in the coupe take you for a drive, have an adult beverage etc. while the inlaws kabitz.
  18. We had a fox or two patrolling the yard. I watched one as it trotted through the front yard. It passed the house by about 30 yards, it suddenly sat down, went stock still except its ears, which went into radar dish mode. It turned back toward the house and crept back in stealth and search mode. When about six feet from our front window planting bed it stopped, zeroed on something in the leaves and mulch. It did an arcing leap into the ground cover at the base of a plant and popped back with a mouse, or mole in its jaws. It secured its hold. Then finished its path through the yard toward its den. Imagine being able to hear something like a small animal rustling dead leaves from 25 to 30 yards away. Was amazing to watch that beautiful animal doing its job, gathering foods for its litter. Unfortunately a few days later we think it got killed by a car down the road from our driveway. Nature provides as it also destroys.
  19. Pull the spark plug on number one, put your thumb over the hole with ign off bump the engine till you feel compression pressure against your thumb. Then rotate by hand till the pressure is highest. Then look for your timing marks. A wire brush may be necessary. Then you can highlight TDC with paint. This mostly becomes moot when doing the vacuum procedure, but the marking will be helpful for future reference. When I did mine via vacuum it runs at 6 btc. But I have milled my head and block and am running dual intake so yours may be different.
  20. Catch that Tacoma. I had just pulled over to setup start my camera. As I finished a Toyota pickup passed doing the speed limit or more. Started the record and set out to catch him...
  21. Look in the resources section of this website. Found in a dropdown menu on the p15 d24 home page, for more suppliers. There are also Vintage Power Wagons, and Robert's Auto Parts. Check the Imperial Club website repair section for good info about use, care and feeding of your semi automatic trans and its electrical needs. 90+% of their faults are external relating to electrical connections, idle speed and proper fluid and level. They are else wise over built and bullet proof unless abused over a long period of time or neglect.
  22. Knowledge, assistance, patience, determination, perseverance are usually rewarded. Good to hear you were successful. Idle should be closer to 500 to 550 to do a good vacuum timing procedure.
  23. I have posted a video of me driving my car in third at 30 mph uphill, slowing to make a 90 degree right turn, then pulling the hill from the turn and accelerating back up to 30, still in third gear. No popping,no vibrating, no pinging, no bucking. I also posted a video off a 7 mile uphill run from stop then pulling the entire hill at 60 indicated in high, probable at about half throttle. Two years ago, I drove up mount Graylock in Massachusetts in third gear for all but about 300 yards. Also been up Mt Cadillac in Arcadia National Park, only down shifting to second only to avoid running into the Toyota Camry in front of me that was struggling to make the climb. This with a 230, 4:11 gears, and 27.5 inch diameter rear tires.
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