greg g

What did you get in the 225/75?

So in 2005 I bought 4 uniroyal 205 75 r15 radials from Walmart,at 52 bucks with mounting balancing and unlimited road hazard warranty, mounted on new 15 inch aftermarket rims,if memory serves I ran them for 2 years. They were a bit short in diameter compared to the 6.00x16 original size. In 2007 we decided to drive to Charlotte, NC to attend the POC event there. In preparation for the trip I mounted a pair of 225 75r15 on the rear to drop some rpms going down the road. I put the 205 take offs in a black contractors trash bag and stored them under my work bench in the garage. Three years ago, I replaced the fronts with the stored pair. After about 45000 miles the fronts showed equal wear, at about half tread depth, no scalloping and no visible checking or bulging. The reserved set still looked new with 80 % tread and no visible faults. They have about 9000 miles on them since re mounting. The rears now have about 60k on them. They show as good condition with about 1/2 tread left. They came from Pep Boys and are what was then their Cornell house brand, according to the paper work their out the door price was 115 for the pair. Looking back, my father would be proud of my parsemoney in this matter. Others would call me a cheap SOB. Whatever, I think, I will let them ride for the season. Looking on line, both the 205 75 and 225 75 sizes have been relegated to trailer sizes through tegular retail sources, so not good news. I loath the thought of dealing with Cocker...

Just visited my area TSC to pick up some oil. Shelves had a pretty meager selection. On the positive side, there was a good supply of SAE 20 and 30. Plenty of SAE 10w 40. Some of that new 5w 20 stuff. I have been using thier 15w40 Traveller All Fleet brand since my rebuild 14 years ago. This oil is now 10W 40. I guess at this point in time, I will pretend I didnt notice the change and carry on as before. Which was adding a pint every 600 or 700 miles between annual changes. Now I guess I need to consider replacing my 2008 tires.

Public Service Announcement.Time to spring into warm weather driving mode. Remember to reverse your car's battery cables to change heater to cooler function. Happy Motoring to all.

There are several 40s Mopars in New England, Eastern and Central NY. If you would sign up for the P 15 Picnic iUSA in September (12-15) you could make their acquaintance, and do some scenic touring. Details for this year are being finalized but we will be using Cooperstown, NY as our base. Contact mark@rdusaclassics.com to get details and reservation info emailing. Pic from 2024 tour in eastern Ontario/Niagara region. The pink Caddy will be replaced by a p15 convertible this year.

Got the trickle charger on to do start up. Gotta wait for a goodly rain to wash off the last of the residual road salt off. They just applied a bunch of brine and rock salt in advance of the last nor Easter that didn't materialize here. We don't call it The Salt City only for potatoes.

I wondered about the blow through as well. It seems the G P blower was good for 116hp, over the 85 with no blower. Could been a hoot in a relatively light coupe. Especially for the mid 1930s. Bet the 0 to 60 was in the 15 second range.

From the flathead six web page.

I believe the secret was 8 or 10 ply truck tires and fuel mileage resulting in many fewer pit stops.

More conflicting info. According to the photo of the lube info page of a 49 dodge found on the Old Cars Brochure web site, the three speed manual trans takes 2 3/4 pints of SAE 80 gear lube. The Gyromatic needs 3 pints of Sae 10w engine oil. Fluid drive unit says after an initial fluid level check at 1000 miles, checks of fluid level and top off if required is every 10,000 miles.

I used Allen head bolts to reinstall the trans. The bolt is a lot easier to start on the end of a long socket extension. Makes getting the upper one on the drivers side much easier to deal with. So if you us the alignment bolts mentioned above, make two. Put them in the top passenger side and bottom on drivers side. Then put the hex bolts into the open ones and snug them in.

There is an r 10 owner user manual in the downloads section of this site. Go to the main page its under one of th pull down tabs. There is also a schematic for wiring a manual by pass of the link down switch. So you can operate before you figure out the factory setup.

Great to see the old hulk and crew still pounding the pavement. Thanks for sharing your trip report.

Be careful with Edmunds heads. Some 23 inch heads are notorious for porous castings. Don't ask how I know. You can test them by taping all the water passage openings and putting some compressed are into one of the holes via a tire valve or rubber tipped air gun. Then spray soapy water between the fins. If it bubbles, you got troubles.

1o or 12 years ago we would have been out on Onieda lake racing our cars on 14 to 20 inches of ice and would continue till the 1st or 2nd weekend in March. I went by the park wherever accessed the lake and it is barely skimmed over. Not even enough for skating or fishing. As youngsters we would skate on swamps and interconnected creeks. Could skate for miles and never be in some other skaters tracks. Never saw much to recommend rink skating (or fishing).

Well, I started school in 53 so in fact most of the schools were fairly new. Elementary was built in 51.

Match books are getting hard to find these days...

On vacuum, my 46 pulled 19, had a lot of blow by. My rebuilt 56 230 pulls 19 but it has duel carbs. Gauge attached to the windshield vacuum port. My friends rebuilt 51 pulls just over 20 with single carb. On distributors, I have 4 each 2 were IGS, 1 was an IAT, cant remember the other one without a trip to the parts cabinet. But I did post a picture here years ago highliting the differences. One had a high body and a short distributor Cap, one of the others had a lower body casting, with a taller cap, rotors were different, points were different and one had the points mounted on the opposite side of the breaker cam. All reasons to get tune up parts by the number on the tag. And a compelling reason to pull the dist out to address any issues.

Thanx for re prooving that automotive parable. What is the difference between your distributers? My 56 Plymouth engine in my 46 bizcoupe runs a 54 dodge pickup distributor. When I looked up the differences, it was just slightly massaged advance curves. Advance got more aggressive as compression ratios went up. I chose the truck unit cuz it best matched its specs when spun up on an old Sun tune up machine. Glad you found your solution.

How old is your fuel pump. Some have an internal debris screen might be plugged. I had a chunk of rust on the inlet fitting. It acted like a ball valve. It would let enough gas to flow to support idle, gentile driving up to 30 to 35, but when flow peaked it would close up and choke the flow, drop back to 30 it was fine. Worth the time to pull the pump and check it over. Also worth doing a vacuum gauge diagnostic before you tackle other stuff. Go to secondchancegarage.com for a good vacuum gauge tutorial. Intake manifold vacuum should give you a reading of 21 inches, and steady needle at 450 to 500 rpm idle.

The only stuff here that had titles was real estate. Until the state realized it could raise revenue by putting titles on all road legal vehicles. At 50 bucks for the title and 25 bucks filing fee every time a vehicle was sold, it's easy money. Now it's on atvs, trailers, boats, rvs, snowmobiles, campers.

I wish folks looking for assistance with vehicle documentation numbers or engine numbers would type out the number. Pictures of engine numbers may look crisp and detailed on your camera, but mostly illegible on laptops or tablets. Casting numbers may be partially blocked by shadow or corrosion. Also it would give us a hint as to whether you are looking for an engine number or serial number when photos aren't attached. Many jurisdictions used different numbers. My friends 51 Plymouth is registered by engine number, mine is by serial number and we both live in the same county but went to different DMV offices. Here in NY, there were no titles for vehicles till 1972 or so. Vehicles were sold on the basis of a transferable registration form. These pre 72 vehicles still do not have titles. Standardized federal Vehicle Identification Number didn't come into use till the mid to late 60s so referring to your old car's number as a VIN is like calling face tissue Kleenex. It works but is technically incorrect. So let us know what number is on your paper work, and please type it out on your post

Late 80s cherokee not grande. 2wd. I'd memory serves.

I think the 4.0 is about 10 inches longer than the flathead.(32 inches fan to bellhousing) Measure a lot before purchasing. Any thing is possible, but heavy mods of firewall and radiator position are probably in the works as well as oil pan sump location. 4.0 are great engines capable of going hundreds of thousands miles and there is big after market stuff as they are still in demand by off readers in western states. But it is a long engine.

Well you have ro remember, rhe original harness was split between 2 circuits. One for the 2 running lights (plus liscence plate lamp) and one for the single central brake li light. When you add signal lights, this adds 2 more single circuits for right and left sockets. The easiest way to address this is to add seperate lights to facilitate just the flashing lamps. I added motorcycle signals to mine mounted to fabricated bracketsattached via a bumper bracket bolt. I did this cuz I can't get my head around how the switch works especially through the brake light switch deal. It's simple for switch to power the lamps through the flasher when just powering the signal, but when the brakes are on is it interrupting the ground to shut the lamp off or is something else going on?