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keithb7

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Everything posted by keithb7

  1. I have some old Mopar books that are eroding each passing month as I reference them. Spines are breaking up. Pages rolling up at the corners. I too am interested in scanning them for long term preservation and sharing of the information. I am not 100% sure which software programs could be used to assemble a user friendly digital copy. Ideally an index with click-able topics could allow users to jump to relevant chapters. Would some type of Adobe software be required? Are there other lower cost alternatives? Preservation and sharing of info is my main priority. Thanks for any tips. Keith
  2. For example: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1939-Chrysler-Dodge-Passenger-Car-Parts-List-manual-catalogue-workshop-manual/303489937117?hash=item46a968eedd:g:vJIAAOSwSlVeSdcb
  3. Ebay also. Be sure not to buy the 1939 “Preliminary” version of the parts book. My understanding is they came out early and were not quite yet complete.
  4. By chance do you have a parts book so you can look up the exact part number? If you do, search that part number on Ebay.
  5. I was somewhat surprised by how much the centre thrust block can move around. I’m trying to understand its purpose. The axle gets pushed all the way in until it bottoms out against the block. Then we tap in the outer bearing cup. However we leave a few thou clearance by shimming the brake backing plate. Then tighten everything down. The centre block acts as a stop for the axle. Is that right? It wiggles around a little does it? Pushed back and forth, left to right during turns a few thou? Is that right? The few thou clearance we leave when we push in the cup is it to allow for heat expansion? Thanks.
  6. I cleaned everything in solvent. Then put it in a hot industrial type dishwasher at work for 15 mins. I was able to inspect the gears better when clean. I cannot find anything of concern. Backlash measured in at .007 inch. Spec is from .006 to .010 inch. Seems like it’s all good to go back in. I’ll put then new pinion seal in when the diff assy is bolted back in the axle housing. Easier to keep the pinion from turning, by putting the wheels back on the ground. My 82 year old gears look pretty good!
  7. I cleaned up my crown gear and found 4.1-1 stamped on it. OK by me. I'll get out my dial indicator and measure backlash. Maybe I'll try and see if I can record the gear contact pattern. Then go from there. I will indeed change the pinion seal at a minimum. Seems like reassembly as the bearings are now, will suffice based on everyone's input. I have not had much considerable driving time with the car yet. It's only been around the block on some test drives. So I guess I cannot say for sure there won't be any gear noise. I never noticed any in my brief test drives. The diff was easy to get out, and pretty quick. If I have to go back in, it's not a big deal. Wheels, drums, brakes, backing plates, axles, then the diff...It's not a daily driver, so I'm not concerned. I think back to last May when I bought this car. It was barely running. It was very sick. Barely drivable. I've learned so much. The car is so much better now and running healthier! These old Mopars are war horses.
  8. I shake my head at people who think there are tons of buyers out there looking for used flathead era Mopar parts. Used Blocks. Trannys. Diffs. Whatever, with unknown history. I buy it at a little more than scrap prices. That’s all it’s worth until proven otherwise. There’s a guy about a 7 hour drive from me with a “field find” 1938 Plymouth. He’s been trying to sell it for quite some time. I’m interested, but not at his price. I made him an offer. We’re too far apart. It can rot another 50 years in that same field. He’ll eventually likely accept $75 from a scrap metal crusher guy to come pick it up. Yet he won’t accept my offer at 5x that today. I am here to tell you, in Western Canada there might be 1 guy right now actively looking to buy, paying cash, a field rotten 1938 Mopar sedan with no interior or windows. That would be me. He’s lost his opportunity to sell it. 2 years ago same thing. A 1950 straight 8 NY’r. No windows rotting for 40 years in a field. Sunk up to the frame in mud and grass. I made an offer better than scrap. He said no. It’s still sitting there sinking deeper. I’d have rounded up a flat deck trailer, driven 7 hours each way. Stayed in a hotel. Winched that dead ‘38 up on the trailer. I’d have had it pollute my driveway while I parted it out. Either car would be picked to help keep other old cars on the road. Yet stubborn sellers think they have gold to sell. Any guesses what the market value is of a restored 1938 Plymouth 4Dr Sedan, or a 1950 4dr NY’r is? Not nearly enough. Not nearly enough.
  9. I’ll clean up the housing and see if I can find the stamped ratio. I do climb a fair hill back home. The 4.1:1 sounds like it may give decent performance. Saying that, I am up from the 201.7 engine to a 228. Hmm.
  10. Axles and diff came out tonight. Easy-peasy and quick. As I loosened the first housing bolt my wife poked her head in the garage and said “Dinner is ready”. 5 mims later I sat down to eat. Removal was done. I love the simplicity. It feels tight. No slop. No noise. No clunking. Gears look great. No complaints. I have no idea how old the bearings are. I figure there must be something I can do, I’m in this far. Perhaps I will install all new bearings and a pinion seal? I’ll get to reading and learn more about this before I go any further. I understand it. Why and how, it does what it does. I get tooth pattern and bearing pre-load. My knowledge however is just text book reading. In terms of hands-on diff rebuild experience, zipola. Never been in one myself. It’s a great model to learn on I figure. Like my tranny, it’s time I learned. I just jacked up all 4 corners and used jack stands. I don’t have a proper hoist. The diff was easily manipulated by myself without the aid of anything. I just lifted it out by hand. It felt heavier than my tranny. Could be because I actually had to get under the car and work with my arms up. I stole the bathroom scale. It checked in at 57 lbs. I can’t recall for sure, but think the tranny was about 50lbs. Questions to come.
  11. I found this pic recently on the internet. A 1938 Plymouth from back when it was near new, I hope I didn't post this already. My thread is getting long!
  12. As they lay tonight. ‘38 Full brake disassembly. Rear axles and diff coming out next. I have no diff rebuilding experience so I’ll be turning here to the great membership, for some guidance. I’ll start a new separate thread on rebuilding the diff. I have not seen a diff rebuild thread on the forum in a while. Should be fun.
  13. Stock? No, but I'm going for it. Too cool when you hear these on old cars. I love the sound...
  14. We are fortunate when our wives support our vintage car addiction. Some of the best memories I have in my vintage cars are when my wife and I are sharing the good times. When spectators are oogling your car, and you're waving, as you go down the street maybe in a parade...Feeling proud and happy that all the time and effort you put in taking care of your old car, is brining other people joy. You look over at your wife/girlfriend/son/daughter in the passenger seat and see big hearty smiles...Does it get any better for an old Mopar lover?
  15. Forgot to mention, with the starter linkage no longer connected to the throttle rod, no more flooding. I’ve been running It up to temp and shutting the engine off and restarting. No problems anymore. Am I missing the real reasons why the starter linkage is connected to the throttle? It seems unnecessary. Perhaps it was a short lived idea that they later gave up on? Was it designed for easier starting for owners who had no idea when to give it a shot of gas or not? I suspect if the linkage were adjusted properly I could get it to stop flooding. What was the original intended to benefit this concept? As it is now it is running very well.
  16. @Young Ed and @plymjim here’s what I tried and tested tonight. Works good so far. Both the starter button and the throttle got a spring each. Feels good. A road test in the future will ensure.
  17. Thanks for the feedback @classiccarjack. I figure there’s probably no shortage of folks on here like me, who cannot seem to get enough of these old Mopars. I hope that sharing my progress and the odd video on nothing but my passion, breeds community spirit here among us. There’s probably a few beginner folks viewing here, with little car repair experience. There may also be folks who maybe used to wrench, but for various reasons cannot anymore. Maybe there’s folks who are reluctant to start a major project on their old Mopar. Perhaps lacking the confidence. Or maybe its a lack of motivation? We do know there’s some well respected, experienced mechanics here too. Maybe they smile and remember when they rebuilt their first transmission. If I can reach out to any of these people via my thread here, I figure it’s worth my time to keep posting. To some, maybe we’re thought of as an odd bunch. The old pre-muscle car Mopar guys...Maybe we are odd, but we have a great community here and am glad to contribute to it.
  18. Thanks Ed. I was thinking of a solution and came up with a spring as you mentioned. I’ll see what I can round up.
  19. Clutch linkage torque shaft. There is a two piece split bushing in each end. They slide into a recess in the torque shaft. When everything is bolted together it all stays in place.
  20. Last night I was doing some tweaking on a few things. Perhaps I should get the heater working next.
  21. Going thru several reference book here there is little mention of these parts except this photo seen below. They call the photo “Throttle pick-up adjustment”. Nothing else mentioned in print. No reference to the photo. Just a photo only. I think I see a spring on the forward starter linkage mount. Right beside, to the left of the "1" in the photo. I am missing that spring...Another clue.
  22. I have a few questions about the starter linkage on my '38. Being as I know the original engine was swapped out, and a 1953/4 25" long 228 ci engine was installed. The car is 82 years old and not everything is stock. Stuff gets jacked during 82 years worth of backyard mechanics. I think I am missing a few parts and ideas and I'm not sure. As I mentioned I have no local '38 Mopar cars to compare mine to. This '38 is my first crack at this pre-war stuff. The manuals leave out a fair bit of stuff and has me scratching my thick head. I have been having a few issues with throttle. Linkage related I suspect. The car has the foot starter button. I like it. You manually push the linkage to make contact on the starter switch and the engine turns over nicely. There seems to be little to help return the starter foot rod linkage back to its original stand-by position. I suspect a spring or two is missing. Where is there supposed to be return spring on the foot starter? Can anyone share photos of the linkage on their foot starter? Show me some return springs? Also the foot starter linkage has a bracket that ties it into the throttle linkage. So as you push the starter lever, it engages the throttle linkage and squirts a shot of gas from the accelerator pump into the carb venturi. I suppose to help the engine flash up easier. Back in '38 the choke was a manual cable that the operator worked. However, note that my engine is a 53/54 version with a same year matching carb. It has the automatic bimetallic spring choke. During my recent "test & tune" episodes, I have found that if the car is fully warmed up, if you stall the engine or shut if off, it does not want to start easily. (remember, every time you hit the starter foot pedal it injects a shot of raw fuel). So I suspect it may be flooding the engine when this scenario happens. The concept maybe was needed for the original '38 engine and carb? But is not needed for the '53 era carb?....I also found that the throttle linkage was getting a little bound up and causing hi engine revs. The throttle rod from the gas pedal takes a 90 deg turn after it goes through the firewall. A rod travels across the firewall to the passenger side of the car, then another 90 degree turn, straight toward the front of the car to the carb linkage. Wiggling the linkage bit, or pulling up on the gas pedal relieves the high engine idol. So tonight I get to thinking, maybe the starter foot pedal linkage is the culprit here. So I remove the starter linkage piece where it engages the throttle rod. I pump the gas pedal myself a time or two and the engine flashed up when cold. It's sub freezing here tonight and no problem. I let the engine fully warm up and shut it off. Starts right back up no problems. No more apparent flooding the engine with gas whenever I hit the starter. Seems that this throttle rod to starter rod lever is adjustable with a set screw. It can be set to squirt more or less fuel when the starter is engaged. This is all well and good, and probably should all work together when set up properly. I suspect it will work when springs are in place to help snap the starter linkage back to home position. Tips, pics, illustrations are appreciated. Here is a pic of my starter linkage. You can also see the throttle rod linkage running in behind along the fire wall. Ignore the loose bolt seen. I was fiddling with it. Thanks. Keith
  23. Thanks @Worden18 I love it too. Sub freezing here tonight and a little snow showed up. Still we proceed with test and tune duties. Not much can stop a person infatuated with an old car.
  24. Warm here again today. Snow nearly all but gone.. I'm starting to think it could be a problem come summer time if the snowpack in the mountains is down too. Normally by now I have at least a few feet of snow on my lawn. Took the Chrysler out for a typical "April 1 type of cruise" yesterday. Weird, just weird.
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