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keithb7

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Everything posted by keithb7

  1. I decided to invest in a cylinder bore gauge. I have 4 Mopar flathead engines to deal with at some point. It makes sense to me, to know the wear condition of the blocks. Or at least have fun learning how to blue-print a block. For home hacks, do we need a proper bore gauge? That’s certainly questionable. A Starret or Mitutoyo brand would have been nice. A new Fowler (currently made in China) will suit my needs fine. Measures down to .0005” My new tool arrived today. A spare 1949 Canadian 218 block lays-in-waiting out behind the shed. This evening I spent a little time learning how to use the tool, also brushing up on my math. Stock bore Canadian 218 is 3.375”. A snap T-gauge test told me this block has been bored .040” over. Setting the 3-4” caliper at 3.415”, then zero-ing the bore gauge in the caliper gets me bang-on. (Well close enough, for an old flathead) By now its getting dark outside. I headed out behind the shed with a flashlight. Hmm. Bore seems to be about 0.0015” larger than when it was last rebuilt. That seems reasonable. On the thrust side the bore is about .0004” larger. The cylinder being 0.0025” out of round. Spec in the 1949 Chrysler manual reads “max allowable out of round , 0.002”. Ok, so early indications are we have a tired block that likely needs full machining services. I’ll practice more measuring in the daylight. I’ll measure each cylinder for taper too. Exciting stuff!
  2. Cell phone chargers are interesting. They charge at 5 to 6V. Yet try and find one that will run off a 6V car. The chargers take 12V in your car, or 120V in your home and step it down to 5V. I bought the 10W 6V-12V step up transformer. If I recall it was about $20 on Amazon. Then I installed a USB charger. Mounted to the wall inside my glove box so it is not seen. I know you said you'd rather not buy the transformer. $20 seems cheap to me. Yes, you can easily hook a phone charger socket up directly to your small 12V battery that you mentioned.
  3. I am happy to say my blower is back together and propelling under its own power again! I ended up stripping it down pretty far. Transmission completely disassembled. Engine and hand controls all removed. Frame split. The main frame housing welds were cracking up. The mainframe box was skewed. Main shafts mis-aligned. We put it in a Hydraulic press to hold things back in proper position, and welded it up. I have to say, friends with a press and a mig welder are very nice to know. I had no shop manual. By trial and error I reassembled it all. Taking things apart again upto 3 times to get it right. These blowers truly are contraptions by design. Hidden hardware that is blocked-in by other parts. Assembly in the wrong sequence, and its all coming apart again. Lol. I got it now. I’m now ready to take on snowblower repairs for cash! 420 chain is used. Double reduction final drives with pressed together chain loops. Non-servicable, no master link drive chains . I visited the local small engine repair shop guys to purchase a couple of the 420 sized master links. I was surprised to learn they did not sell or use them. I sourced them elsewhere. I ground a few pins off to split the chain loop. Then installed new master links. Otherwise, future chain service means a complete tranny teardown again. Seems weird to me. Anyway, Its ready for winter!
  4. I can relate to the cabin fever statement. It's been a long year with few engaging car events. I've not been to a swap meet since last Sept. All events continue to be cancelled. In addition to all the Covid related stuff, the news media is really dragging people down. On top of that, this week we're socked-in with wildfire smoke here in my area. I had a trip planned in my '38. I cancelled it as I was headed to an area that is even closer to the fire source. The air is thick. The sun blocked out. It's feeling sort of apocalyptic around here lately. Not too fun. Many of us will surely be happy to see the calendar roll over to 2021. Hopefully bringing more good with it, as we say good riddance to a year of gloom.
  5. I’m staying away...Quickest way to double your money? Fold it in half and put it in your pocket.
  6. I delayed looking at this thread, for fear what might lurk around the corner. Someone might be able to get that car at a considerable discount. Seller is expecting offers.
  7. I measured 9,420 ohm from either the positive or negative post to the center of my 6V coil. -`1938 Ply.
  8. By chance I happened to be under my 1938 car today. The rear leather tranny seal was originally leaking, as I mentioned above in post. #2. Today the situation looks good. I had degreased it a while ago. It's all dry back there still, as of today. I suspect the seal softened up over time. Break-in time has led to the desired results it seems.
  9. I figure this is my hobby. May family only loves that I am happy tinkering with my old cars. They get to ride along and smile when we all jump in. They have no interest otherwise. They have no idea on value. I don't expect them to take care of my old cars and spare parts to generate as much money as possible when I am gone. It's all only worth what someone else is willing to pay. That's it. No these aren't old Camaros or Mustangs. They won't be attracting much in the way of dollars. My family can give it all away if they want. They can try getting $xx,xxx dollars if they want. When the cars sit and parts sit unsold for months, perhaps they will lower the asking price. Keep lowering it until potential buyers start to make inquiries. That's how I'd do it today. Used parts? Well old Mopar guys who love the hobby sometimes see young up-comers. Some are apt to give away their spare old used parts to a good home. Where a younger guy will be likely to use them. That's happened to me and I intend to pay it forward when my time comes. Yes, I have a growing pile of spare parts. I find that when I get a good deal on a lot of old parts, paying cash, often that when 1 or 2 spare parts are used, I've already easily saved what I paid for the entire parts lot. I don't care if what's left of the spare parts pile can generate $1 at that point. For example a spare sized engine core. Maybe it costs $75 . A year later you pull the water distribution tube you need. Then your generator bracket cracks. You use the spare. Next thing the old pressure plate and clutch disc on the old engine are good and you use them. You're way ahead now on your initial $75 spend for the whole engine. When I am gone if someone in my family has no interest, so be it. Send it all to scrap if they want. If they want to try sell it, that's fine too. I will be having a chat with my family about market value and how to get it, if they want. While I am here, I will enjoy the cars and the parts immensely.
  10. Hi Worden, I reviewed your resistance numbers. If you like, for comparison I can record some of the same measurements on one of my cars. However both of mine utilize breaker points. If I recall you are using the Pentronix system. I have no idea about it other than it's solid state and I suspect uses a hall effect, or magnet of some type, to trigger the spark. I am suspicious about that Pentronix system, possibly being the source of your trouble. My points, file, condenser, & dwell meter, have all performed rock solid so far. I'd be inclined to make a new separate post, just addressing the electrical issue. Copy and paste your same post above. You may likely get a lot more views and responses. Some of these long threads, people get lost in. If they aren't following along the whole way, they may get behind and give up following.
  11. I am experiencing the exact same thing. The oil leak did get a little better at sealing after a while. Seems that maybe is softened up more in use? It still slings a bit, not as bad. Next time my tranny is out I am thinking of matching up a modern seal to replace it.
  12. Lots of ideas. I can’t offer much more insight. Its starting to sound like a “Spray & Pray” job. You spray different controlled areas with new parts and pray that you solved it. If. Not spray and pray some more. Reading what I have here so far, I’d probably start with those two front brakes and the master.
  13. Lots of ideas. I can’t offer much more insight. Its starting to sound like a “Spray & Pray” job. You spray different controlled areas with parts and pray that you solved it. If. Not spray and pray some more. Reading what I have here so far, I’d probably start with those two front brakes and the master.
  14. Each fall change the headlight fluid, grease the muffler bearings, rotate the brake shoes, add a little glycol to the fuel tank, check the water-pump timing, re-set the dwell on the float, swap out air for nitrogen in the tires, and change the dust bag on the vacuum wipers. These tasks will keep you busy for over the winter. Next thing you’ll know it’ll be spring and time to reverse all the damage again!
  15. Hopefully you get it sorted out. Hopefully its not related to the Pentronics.
  16. One guess is your idle speed possibly. Too high of idle it won't shift.
  17. Yes I believe it was the first RH drive vehicle I’ve ever operated. I’d never thought about that until now. I guess I’d have to say it felt seamless. Natural. I never even noticed. I suppose I was pretty ecstatic about getting the opportunity to dive 110 year old car. Additionally it had a sleeve Knight engine. How often does an average Joe get to do that? I could have been dragging a lassoed pair of garbage dumpster bins. I’d likely have not noticed that either.
  18. Welcome to this group. You came to the right place. Tons of helpful folks here. I have learned a tremendous amount about my old Mopars cars from the members here. Good luck with your plan. It sounds like you know what you want. Cruising in these old cars is a lot of fun.
  19. No hate...At least you'll make most people think its 318 Mopar. I won't judge you here. It'll all get sorted out at the Pearly Gates with St. Peter... Kidding aside I bet it's a fun driver!
  20. I just noticed this tool! Lol. Generator mounting bracket snapped. A friend with a welder is a friend indeed. Keith
  21. My wife and I enjoyed another trip in my ‘38 today. 135 miles. An event free awesome tour. I pop the hood regularly to inspect and look for signs of trouble. Today I noticed a welsh plug in the block is weeping a little. Not much. I suspect I might have lost a tablespoon, maybe of water during the trip. Today was my second longer-ish trip in 2 weeks. Some of the residue seen is likely also remnants of the earlier trip too. I’ve not replaced a block plug before. I assume draining the block, hammer and a punch would remove it? New plug gets a coating of some type of sealant before installation? What sealant? My wife and I are headed off for a week of camping in our RV. When we get home I was planning a trip to visit my brother in my ‘38. Its about 225 miles one way. I won’t have time to fix this before I go. Is this a concern? I’m hoping not. It’ll likely weep, might stop even? Doubtful the plug would blow out and all coolant eject. Or am I high risk for a blown plug, hours from home? I’ve little experience with these. Thanks.
  22. I am curious what folks are using for engine oil. Are you adding anything else if at all to your oil, in an attempt to slow down metal to metal wear? I've read lots of opinions on ZDDP Zinc additive. We've all heard about the tappets that may suffer early wear. Or maybe the camshaft lobes are suffering accelerated wear? Perhaps its the carbon build up in the top ring and valve seats that you focus on? Or it's the additive that helps quell your excessive oil smoke out the exhaust pipe. For the sake of interest only, among the members here, take the poll. It'll be interesting to see what folks are doing for oil and additives. Feel free to add your comments. The poll is anonymous. Any data collected will not be used for anything other than sheer interest and discussion among us here in the P15-D24 group. Have fun! - K
  23. She's a beauty Jeff. You've done good things to make it safe and reliable. I find a timing light, dwell meter, tachometer, vacuum/pressure gauge and feeler gauges for the valve set, are very key tools to keep get these old Mopars dialed in right. My 6V equipped engine starts up so incredibly quick when it's hot or cold it's a surprise to most people. It's amazing how well these old flatheads can run when they are set up right. At the local gas station, I get a ton of inquiries by strangers nearby, also buying fuel. I love the look on those people's faces after I flash it up so quickly, and and it purrs.
  24. The word S N O W cannot be typed in this forum by several members . It's actually considered a swear word and blocked? LOL. This is a test: When its' cold enough and precipitation happens, it often falls as snow. We get more than our share of snow up here in Canada where i live. So I have tools to deal with the snow. My snow shovel is not one of my favourite tools. So I go above and beyond to find other tools to more easily deal with snow. If it never snowed here again, I'd be totally ok with that. Come early March I am very much done with snow. Hate it by that point. However, aside from about 2 areas of Canada, the Vancouver BC and Victoria BC areas, every other square inch of this country gets a fair share of snow. Hmm..I have no trouble typing the in the word snow. Why are others? LOL. Enough swearing...Back to vintage Mopar business.
  25. Hi Dennis the mirrors aren’t great. I bought them as they are period correct. They added a goofy look from the 50’s. The passenger side mirror is useless. I decided to point it down at the RR tire. That way when I am parallel parking I can check my white wall against the curb. The driver’s side is a little more usable as I sit close to it. I bought a stick-on convex mirror and stuck it to the flat mirror on my ‘38 car. Driver side. It’s very effective and I prefer it. On my ‘53 photo above you’ll see a non-stock mirror bolted to the left fender. I stuck the same convex mirror on it. Much better as well.
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