wagoneer

Okay, I've figured it out...now that I have a parts book for 46-48 C38 (Must have alongside the shop manual). 1948 and earlier (not sure about 49), the backup switch indicated in the 48 wiring diagram is part number 1157855 -- a physical knob on the dash somewhere referenced in #13 by@chrysler1941 1949 or possibly 1950, the switch was converted into a transmission mounted automated switch part number 1300644 -- a switch mounted on the transmission actuated by the reverse linkage (see #11 above). To be original to my car -- 1948 Windsor -- Then I need the dash mounted knob 1157855. @chrysler1941 Would you mind sharing a picture of how the knob is mounted on your dash and where it would have been mounted from the dealer? Also, Would you share a template or tracing of the bracket so I can make one too please? I can't find the bracket anywhere, but probably now I was looking in the wrong generation of vehicles...

Won't the 12v affect the electric shifting solenoids/governer in the m5/m6 transmissions? I'm worried about burning out other items? Maybe if I pull the 30 amp fuse, that woudl be a good precaution?

I like the original best but again personal choice. I'm more interested in the pit and lights underneath the original pictures. Is that your garage? I have been thinking of building a pit for my garage to easily work on my car without installing a lift? I can't quite tell from the pictures whether it's just vanity lights, or a pit that the car is rolled over.

My 48 seems to have come with a rare dealer option (or is it factory?) -- the manual choke (part # 510785 ) instead of the autochoke that is apparently very common. Does anybody know any history on whether this was a deleted or replaced feature? It's a US '48 Windsor with the highlander package, but apparently this seems to be something extra. My car starts very nicely (instantly), so I don't know if I'm missing anything with the autochoke. thoughts? Install is very clean and factory like. Mine is a pretty clean survivor. x You can see the auto-choke here on our fellow member @DonaldSmith 's vehicle with the black wire attaching (posted here). https://p15-d24.com/topic/41063-fluid-drive-will-not-shift-to-higher-gear/

hello, could you post a copy of the instructions here please. I have the dealer and of factory bu light , I would like to see How they recommend running wiring. Do they run it under The body or through the cabin? thank you

Is that bracket for sale anywhere? I can find the switch but the bracket is elusive. Any part number for the bracket itself?

Could someone please help me identify the proper name of this spring connecting from the transmission housing to the high/low shift linkage. also anybody know where to buy a replacement. I’ve checked the usual but I am having a hard time finding it. thanks nik

Anybody with a picture (with some perspective/context) on where it is on the 1948 M6 transmission (Chrysler Windsor)? This thread has the picture and suggests it to be under the radiator -- https://p15-d24.com/topic/24165-quick-question-brake-light-switch/

I’m interested in your last two sentences - smoke coming out of the oil filler tube. i see the same on mine. Can you explain please why you suspect rings? I’m guessing this smoke is not the purpose of this ventilation?

In the end, I think @desoto1939 has the most accurate answer, and the miller special tool manual reveals the truth. I refer to the Miller Special Service Tools catalog kindly hosted by the ImperialClub, specifically page 8 (attached). Note that the front brakes use the universal Puller style with wheel attached. Note also that Miller tools rather pejoratively delegates this style puller for "regular and used car needs". Probably why a lot of pullers are too short, is that the original intention was to use the extra space from the tire to have the hub attached to the tire. I will certainly have to try this method soon, and looks very appealing to me for getting right to the meat of the job (get to the drums). This is likely the origin of the diagrams and Chrysler instructions showing both wheel and hub together for Front wheels. For rear drums, the recommended tool for safe and damage-free removal is the 5 lug nut Miller Special Tool C-319. I would love to find one of these tools, but they are nowhere to be found on the internet. It seems most of these Miller tools are conspicuously absent from resale / used sites for the most part, which is very strange. I did find this one that is similar - the Les Fairbanks puller -- that does the job in a similar though not quite as slick way. http://www.chrysler300club.com/rcmstuff/fairbanks/puller.html

Andy Bernbaum's has a lot available -- https://www.oldmoparts.com

I recently fixed my overheating issue with a new water pump, thermostat, and hoses. I'll look into having my radiator boiled next time. The pump and thermostat solved my problems. I used a set of hoses from Berbaum's that were good but needed a bit of trimming. The stock clamps are cool, and give a nice accent visually to the engine.

Here is another angle — I think I am missing two Springs! the clutch pedal return and the clutch fork Return spring . I have the long one in the background with space on both ends but I’m missing the pedal return and the short one in your foreground.

Found this great parts explosion on AMS NOS https://www.amsnos.com/Help/MMPCPRE54.pdf I found the hand brake return spring at mopar mall. https://www.moparmall.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=871-129&CartID=1 I think the front one is actually the 'clutch pedal return spring'. The clutch fork return spring is a small item at the end according to the parts explosion attached. Found at Andy's - https://www.oldmoparts.com/parts-clutch.aspx Is there a picture of this on a 4-door Windsor? I would like to see what the spring attaches to on the other side, or which part it is specifically.