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About bartenderfloyd

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  • My Project Cars
    1950 Plymouth Special Deluxe


  • Location
    New York
  • Interests

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  1. Yes! An underside shot would be very helpful. I was hoping someone did a frame off resto and would show off their frame pics before the body was installed.
  2. I saw this before. Helpful but I need more of what the rocker frame underneath looks like. Need to know what the seat bolts into.
  3. My floors and rockers are pretty rough. I ordered floors from the Plymouth Doctor. They should be in soon. I figured that when they came in I would have a better idea on how to frame the floor, including rocker position. I have the service manual and the parts manual. Neither of them give a good picture of what the frame under the front seat and rocker is supposed to look like. All the book shows is the main frame and body supports. I saw a few pics here regarding rocker repair but they were few. Does anyone have a drawing or diagram, or pics even of how the frame is supposed to look b
  4. The rust! I just ordered an entire floorpan set from the plymouth doctor.
  5. I noticed that too. I thought it may be the silicone I sprayed on the gaskets as it didn't smell like gas. I'll check back on it tomorrow.
  6. As I was reinstalling the carb today I decided to put the battery on a charge since I haven't driven her in a few weeks and she's been sitting outside in freezing weather. I thought these cars were positive ground but when I looked at the battery I see the negative hooked directly to the block and positive to the solenoid. The car runs perfectly fine from my experience. The service manual shows it should be hooked up the other way around with the negative going to the solenoid. Should I switch it around or leave well enough alone. What could go wrong?
  7. Update - I rebuilt the carb and learned a bunch if stuff. Bottom line is that it doesn't leak anymore and runs real well. First, I want to thank Mike's carburetor for their rebuild kit and video. It made rebuilding my first ever carburetor a breeze. Second, whoever said the screws needed to be tightened wasn't kidding. Barely any effort to remove the carb and take each section apart. I made sure to tighten everything when I put it back together. Third, whoever saw that the seals were doubled up was right. For some reason there were 2 seals on the float section of the carb. Fourth, the needle
  8. Yes, all that in good time. I'm actually anxious to rebuild the carb because I have never done one before. I'm the type that believes "If it flows, it goes" so after the rebuild that will be next. The plugs look like they have been in there a long time and the wires look the same so that will be after that. The engine does run well though.
  9. Good idea. I like the idea of an electric fuel pump. This one starts pretty well though. I just went for a spin around the block a few times and it is 30 degrees out. 2 pumps and the engine fired right up.
  10. Yes, I made another post about the carb. I plan on doing that while my wife tends to the interior.
  11. Thanks. I'll get right to it. The hood opens surprisingly easy.
  12. I just picked up a 1950 Plymouth Special Deluxe and the first thing I noticed was below the carburetor is pretty wet with fuel. So much that I don't want to pull it into my garage until that part is sorted out. The engine runs well. My experience is with fuel injection so carburetors are new to me. 2 questions. First, how do I identify the model carburetor? I see on 1 side the "Carter Ball & Ball" and I see 2 stampings, 6-595 and JO L6H2. On the other side I see C-660. Second, should I rebuild it or replace it with an upgraded model not knowing the history of the current carburetor
  13. Just picked her up for the wife. She always said she was born in the wrong era and loves the 1950's car looks. Going to make a list of what it needs done today. Can't wait for the temps to go above freezing so I can start working on it.
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