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Dodgeb4ya

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Everything posted by Dodgeb4ya

  1. Test port as shown.... passenger side of trans extension housing...1946-48 M-5 transmission only... special threaded fitting....
  2. I'd tig or gas braze it...certainly wort a try. Cleanup the hardest part.
  3. My WT puller...I can slowly wedge them out or slide hammer out....I prefer to slowly wedge them out...prevents tearing the slots
  4. Never seen a main cap on any flathead crack...including the 265's. The caps were probably mixed up as per the original position or not seated correctly before torquing tight. One last thought someone put in too big of undersized bearings and tightened the caps down cracking the ears...unlikely though. Main caps must be marked with a prick punch before removal for proper re-assembly
  5. The front spring is the clutch fork return spring....2nd picture... the rear hanging spring in your picture is the E -brake pull back spring which on a 4 door or coupe also connects to a 10" extension link rod (approx.) hooked into a small hole in the floor brace. 1st picture shown is the E-Brake return spring with out the extension link...1948 Chrysler convertible X frame shown. Does not use the extension link.
  6. Double 00 EP grease is excellent extreme pressure flow-able grease.
  7. Sloppy stick welding...it's what they did...some of the worst sheet metal welds I've seen were on a 35 Aiflow CW limousine. None of them were cracked or broke though...just ugly.
  8. This is a 1952 Dodge car paint and upholstery book that shows all paint and upholstery combinations for 52 Dodge cars... I have seen the same on ebay for 1953....they are rare and pricey items... Upholstery shops back in the day had OEM samples too of the fabrics...
  9. Looks to be the standard 1940 to 56 MoPar 3 speed. Parts should be fairly easy to find..gaskets, syncro's etc.
  10. The 3/4" belts don't twist too well. I leave them a little loose...1" deflection to save the water pump...as those wide belts have plenty of grip surface and won't slip...
  11. A whole picture of the trans sure would help ID it ...better than a part number to have to search through parts books.
  12. If you had the part#'s for the specific 3 speed in your truck you could find parts...there are at least two 3 speeds in those series of trucks. The Fargo might make it more difficult... The trans might be a New Process or Warner etc. ID the trans then search.
  13. Just use one off a 1946-52 Mopar outside door handle
  14. I used a digital camera and took properly cropped pictures of the slides positioned over bright white paper. As Redneck as you can get but works. Alao...There is a device you can buy to transfer the slide images to your computer too...my brother had one but I've never used it or seen it used.
  15. Factory design dual heaters plumbing with correct dual hose heater control valve....with control cable correctly installed on back of valve..
  16. Yes....out of a 1946-48 Chrysler owners manual....same operation in Ply/Dodge and DeSoto.
  17. On MoPars with the trans E-brake no strut rod and cable /lever is used on rear brakes. Not needed.
  18. That's a cute little radio set up...I like it! Never seen one.
  19. Looks like someone swapped on complete later style (60's MoPar) backing plates probably off a Plymouth or small Dodge. The picture appears to be the drivers side so yes the E-brake cable goes to the rear...the longer shoe lining also to the rear. Also the top pivot pin as PA mentioned is on upside down plus the cable off the pivot.. The differential carrier case # 1141543/44 appears to be a 1936-50 all 6 cylinder cars ...Ply/Dodge/DeSoto and Chrysler. 1951-53 Plymouth's use carrier case # 1327816 Also the rear axle in your car probably has 10 spline axle shafts (which were used in all MoPar car models up to1952) unless someone has swapped 53 side gears into the rear end. As built new.... all 1953 Plymouth's used 16 spline axle shafts.
  20. There is a 57 thru 60 DT 700 series radio on ebay...only $1700....ugly one too.
  21. Upper or lower A-arms possibly could be moved forward or backwards for more caster. Tiny amount of pivot shaft adjustment.
  22. Sometimes when pedal Bleeding brakes on an old master cylinder you can damage/tear the master cylinder cups. This is because you push the pedal beyond it's normal range. The cups get pushed into the ridge of possible sludge. That can damage the rubber cups. Or the piston can hang up on the return stroke...so as mentioned watch it's movement. A reason to use a quality pressure bleeder. And yes the shoes should be backed off when pedal bleeding to help fluid pulse back into the master cylinder....the fluid should squirt up almost out of the cylinder upon pedal return once all air is bleed out of the system.
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