greg g

Check two things float level and needle and seat.  If the needle valve isn't closing it will allow the float chamber to over fill. I'd the float isn't seating correctly it won't push the needle in to the seat proper.
 
Current wisdom is to set the float a 32nd or 2 lower than factory spec.  Today's gas blends expand more at lower Temps leaving some room in the chamber also prevents over flow when under hood Temps are high.  To lower thr float you want to bend the tab that contacts the needle up so the float doesn't need to come up so high to close the valve.
Third item to check is the little retainer clip that fits into the groove the float pin goes into. If it not there or if misaligned the float won't work to close the inlet.
 
In the downloads area of this site is a pictorial of rebuilding the carb.  This can help you identify  the parts reffered too above.

Oh wait he said Champion.  One of their QC issues was porcelain porosity so it could be blowby between the porcelain and the metal of the plug.  Dump the Champs.  I`ve been running the same set of AC 45R gapped at .030 for 45k miles.

Been running gl1 rated multi viscosity  I think it's 70  90 not sure without looking at the bottle. I have about 14 k miles since I swapped in the 56 three speed and the 54 r10 over the last three driving seasons.  Both seem to be operating well and have had no issues. The od might engage faster with the motor oil but several folks who have OD tell me its very comparable to how theirs engage. GL 1 grade is recommended as these units as well as earlier have brass and bronze pieces in the synchro.  Later lubes made for hypoid gears have shear strength enhancing additives which don't play well with yellow metal pieces.  As to how long it might be before any il leffects arise is guesswork.  You can gl1 multi grade  gl 1 from Napa, its Valvolene or Castrol if memory serves and was maybe 8 to 10 bucks three years ago or maybe 17 fo a gallon.  You need about 2.5 or 3 pints for each section of the units.

Make a jumper wire, 6 feet or more of 12 gauge wire with an alligator clip on each end.  Insulated clips are good but bare ones will work with care not to accidently ground them.
 
 Attach one end to the coil terminal that receives power in your case the positive terminal. Attach the other end to the positive battery post.  Now try it.  If it starts and runs, you are near finished.  To stop the engine, disconnect the jumper the battery.  This tells you everything is working except the connection from the ign switch to the coil.  If your jumper is long enough, connect the end that was attached to the battery and Attach it to a switch terminal that is hot with switch on.  If it starts and runs and shuts off with the key, that says your ignition switch is OK. So a new wire from that terminal on the ign switch to the Coil positive terminal should be the fix.

generator and starter motor rebuilding service now available. Please call 617-244-1118 for details! 
 
From the oldmoparts on line catalog aka Andy burnbaum auto parts.
 

Replacing the stock shift knob.  Wire goes through the lever.  You would need the wiring diagram from the manufacturer to wire it in correctly.  Search this site for shift rite its been discussed before.  Also Google shift rite to see if there are other info out there.

There should be a fuse integral with the light switch.  It's a 30 amp and it's a different length than the common SAE glass tube fuse.  Check that, also if the car has been sitting a while there might be corrosion on the switch terminals.  Running the switch through its travel a dozen cycles can clean the contacts.  Alsohe stomp switch for high beams can also be a point of high resistance cycling it can also clean it's internals.  Also there is a distribution point usually on the radiator support or inner fender where the circuits come out from the switches and divide to each side.  Connections there need to be clean and tight.  Make yourself a six foot long jumper wire 12 gauge with an alligator clip on each end. Use it to power things direct from the battery.  NOTE.  stock this car was equiped as a 6 volt POSITIVE ground system.  So when powering with the jumper wire it gets connected to the negative battery post.
 
Six volt systems are dependant on current flow.  They like thick wires, clean tight connections, good grounds.  If your car doesn't have a ground strap from the body to the frame or engine, install one.  Connect any through bolt on the fire wall to a spot on the engine or frame.  Some folks use one of the bell housing to block bolts.  This will help all the body grounded electrical stuff work better.
 
The primary battery cable from battery to starter should be O gauge wire. Skinny 12 volt stuff doesn't carry enough amps for six volt.

Run it till you think the situation will occur, shut down and check the base of the carb.  If it's dry, shut the hood and let it sit for five minutes. Check the carb base again. If it's wet it's a perculation problem.  Can you turn the heat riser by hand?  If so rotate it as far as it will go clockwise and secure it there.

Bum battery exchange it.  Turning the key to the right is the accessory position.  Turn the key to run, do you have footage to the neg terminal on the coil?

You sir are a scholar and a gentleman.  Thank's and best regards to you.  

I believe they all came with the bright work on welting.  Which is why I think yours may have had some body and or paint work at some point in its life.  or like mine the bead became seperated and it was pulled off rather than trying to reattach it.

Try running a dedicated line to the brake light switch.  You want this to work regardless of key off or on.  Make a fused feed wire that will connect to the battery side of the solenoid, and run down to power the brake light switch.  Then that load will no longer go through the light switch, and you will have brake lights regardless of signals or accessory lights.  Typically signals and interior lights will work only with ignition on or with key on aux.  so they wont fire up just off the light switch on.  
 
you can also make up an 8 to 12 foot wire with alligator clips on each end.  connecting it to the battery negative terminal, will allow you to independlently power your circuits to check to see if any of the items will work. An inline fuse is a good idea for a line set up like this,just in case you should encounter powering a dead short.

http://www.curtmfg.com/Category/12/Multi-Fit%20Hitches

The tension you feel could be the detent, it should go past that.  Total throw should be an inch or more either side of center (neutral). Just forward of the housing bearing the controller levers are 2 hex heads one above the other.  These retain the springs and detent balls thatcontrol the sliding shift rails.  You might want to see if these are free and allowing the internals to move correctly. Pull one at a time to see if it frees the action of the selector lever.  If not that the manual suggests that difficulty in shifting 2nd/3rd may be related to the linkage being adjusted to short or worn bushing not allowing complete travel, or internally a fault with the fork and  stop ring on the second gear synchro assembly or a worn or damaged synchro  assembly.

Some might go to a relay after the switch but I would think the majority went from dimmer out to terminal block.

Seems like you source something to work from the Dorman Help catalog, or the smalls bins at the hardware store.

Artillery style rims were popular during the change over from wire spoke wheels to stamped steel riveted or welded disc style wheel.  They were made mostly from 34/5 till 39/40.   A lot of the guys one the HAMB forum are always searching for them as they are popular for the guys wanting to build a hot rod which is inspired by those built from the late 40's to mid 50's.  I think they were also used on the Mullins trailer that was built through the late 40's.
 

Is pedal to the metal WOT???  I ask this because I just dealt with my daughter's car, she complained about lack of acceleration. problems climbing hills, limited speed on the highway, and long and lazy shifts.  I found the trans was a quart low, I diddled with the TPS, and couldn't effect much change.  Then I looked at the throttle cable.  The lock nuts had backed off and the throttle plate was only opening just past half way with the pedal on the floor.  Couple turns of wrenches, and power and driveability restored.

There are also free online utilities that alloy you to transfer a photo from your computer to their page and re size it.  The re sized picture will also usually have a direct transfer url, which will alloy your to copy and paste it directly to the image utility of this and or other forums.  Just google re size photo or make my pic smaller or something like that and several choices will be yours to fiddle with.  Bookmark the one you like and keep it handy for when you feel like posting.  They usually give you a choice that includes formats friendly to email and forums with out having to know pixle count, what 360 x 720 or whatever actually means.