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Everything posted by kencombs

  1. 3 spd w/fluid coupling = Fluid Drive Gyro Matic = M6 trans (2 spd trans with 2spd OD integral) behind a fluid coupling.
  2. You probably won't find a automotive resistor of the correct value. I'd probably just measure the current draw of the original coil on the 8v system and calculate the resistance needed to drop it to 6v. Ohms law and all that. At a guess, maybe two wire wound resistors from a 60s GM or Ford in parallel may be close. They drop 12v to about 8 or so and two in parallel would halve the resistance. But I really don't remember the current draw of the 12v system so can't do the math, to many unknowns
  3. It gets converted to Iron Phosphate (FePo4). So the rust (FeO2) becomes FePo4 due to the interaction and 'stealing a couple of O atoms from the converter. A good coating of it seals the underlying steel preventing further rusting. But, the original rust must not have any loose areas lest they break loose, crack and breech that seal. Same thing the expensive moisture cured coatings do, except they are more durable. I choose to use the Ospho which is partially phosphoric acid, which provides the Phosphate part if the formula and strengthen the sealing part with a liberal coat of epoxy primer. Epoxy sticks to anything, and everything will stick to epoxy making a good choice both as a rust sealer and underlayment for filler primer.
  4. Yes, merging like that is called zipper merge and works well if everyone remembers and obeys the 'every other car in the zipper'. But there's always one, or more, that need to be first. I've driven through 15 states or so in the last year and most of them had similar signs in construction zones. Makes sense a as all available lanes are used as long as possible which in theory speeds traffic flow. OK is one of those states that doesn't encourage passing the white walkway at intersections until your path is clear for a left turn. No marking, don't enter the cross traffic lanes, lest you be caught blocking them when the light changes.
  5. Reasonable is a really open ended term ya know. I had a reasonable estimate in my head for my pu. About x I thought. I’m at 2x, cost and time. Still ‘reasonable’ as my definition has changed.
  6. I think it depends on what your goal is. In my case, I removed almost all the visible rust with rust and paint stripping disks on a 4.5" grinder. So I only needed the converter to deal will little bits in pits or sheet metal folds, like at fender reinforcements and door skins. For that I used Ospho. I've used Picklex 20 which is really good, but come at a premium cost! That was followed with a quick hit with 80 grit and epoxy primer. In the door skin and fender lap areas the primer was literally poured in as I had the parts on a table so I could roll it around to get it into every nook and cranny. I don't trust any rust converter to work if the rust hasn't been removed first to a great degree. Sanding, grinding, stripper disk, acid or something needs to get to the metal. Because, the primer bonds to the converter, the converter supposedly bonds the converted outer layer of rust to the substrate. And in all the tests I've done and seen online there is always red rust between the metal and the black converted layer. If the rust de-bonds from the metal, the 'sandwich' will eventually fail, IMHO. Just don't trust that.
  7. Great looking car! I see no rust or dents. Even the chrome looks decent. Should be a reasonably cheap redo. That old lacquer paint is probably spider webbed but doesn't show in the pics. FYI, I used some of the new fiber paint/rust stripping disks on my 4.5" grinder to strip my pickup. Highly recommended. Much better than sandpaper. Or, that nasty liquid stripper method. About that 'reasonably cheap' comment above. I was reading a discussion of upholstery costs on another board and was shocked at the going rates in some areas. I may never do a sedan interior again!
  8. Same thing I found on my 56. . My original plan was seam sealer, but Now it looks like the best thing easily available is the foil backed tar-like flashing materials. Just cut a strip and stick the sticky side to the fender, punch the bolt holes and install.
  9. I think the original is not knurled because they are retained by a 'crimp', for want of a better word, around the hub hole. I just buy a replacement with knurling and drill or ream the hole to match. The last ones I bought were from a trailer parts store.
  10. I'm not sure on early cabs, but my 56 has metal holders that retain a felt seal around the pedal shaft. At least it did until I removed all that for '60 suspended pedals.
  11. Maybe it's just me, but removing the hinge pins would be my last choice. Just unbolt the hinges. Yeah, I know, then you have to adjust the door, but the odds are that will need to be done anyway.
  12. My only guess is oil level in the transmission may be low. I worked on one way back in the early 60s that did something similar and it had the wrong oil and low level.
  13. They come in several sizes 3/16, 1/4 and 3/8 OD with about a half dozen heads that I've found, ranging from 31/32" to close to 1.5". After looking at them closer I think an appropriately sized oval head screw and a small fender washer could be made to work. Dimple the washer to provide a seat for the screw head. And those are available in stainless too. That would solve another issue. I plan to paint the bed and fenders before installation. Then the screw heads would need to be painted separately or just use stainless bare.
  14. If that is a 5/16 hose barb the other end looks like a 1/8NPT fitting. It will measure about 5/16 OD, but the pipe size is 1/8. The tank looks like 1/4" pipe female.
  15. The only really tricky part of the differential is setting the pinion depth. Once that is done the rest can be handled with a dial indicator and some sticky grease to check the tooth engagement pattern. I don't recall the older units using a crush sleeve, just selective spacers to set pinion preload as well as depth. I think my old Motors manual covers it.
  16. Yes they do have elevator bolts. But like everyone else, they aren't fully threaded due to the short square section under the head nor do they have a screw slot or recess on the head side. Assuming the head OD is usable, I'll probably wind up with those from somewhere and remove the square part, thread deeper or add washers, as well as dremeling a slot in the head. Kind of a pain but better than 130 bucks + shipping for 16 from Roberts. On the good side, the elevator products are available in stainless, around 15 bucks for 50!@!
  17. On the air pressure issue, if using an HVLP gun the 10psi is an 'at the tip' measurement and is usually achieved with a 30-35PSI at the gun inlet. And, it's important to note that that pressure is read and set with the trigger pulled. I always set the paint needle to full open less maybe 1/2 turn when painting panels. Fan size is also near full and distance from panel is closer to 8-9" than 6. For me, it seems that settings and gun speed 'just before it runs' provides the best finish. Stopping at that point is the trick ! And, I always reduce a bit, usually a little over the recommendation but in cool weather that can push it past the 'just before it runs" point.
  18. Looks like the valves are seating OK based on the last results. Curious as to what happened to #4 after torquing the head though. I wonder if that is repeatable? You may have had a valve/seat with a little rust from sitting that caused the original leak test results. I'll bet the leak down test will show some ring leakage, but It is likely that the rings may free up or seat better after it runs a bit since it was idle for a while. None of the pics show any signs of head gasket failure. I haven't plotted the valve sequence closely but it is possible the cylinder to cylinder leak indication was just a valve not sealing well on one and appearing on the other due to both cylinders having an intake off the seat at same time. One due to a leak and the other due to valve timing. I always get confused when trying to do things like that on paper. But easy to do with the head off. Just look at 5 and 6. When either is in position for a leakdown test does the other have the intake off its seat?
  19. I think I'll try elevator bolts on mine as I only need a few that broke from rust damage. The one listed as elevator bolts have a short square section under the head like carriage bolts and aren't threaded quite as far as the originals. But, I think by grinding the square section to round and using a washer or two they will work. I've found them by searching using that term. The original type are available from a few sellers, but seem to be quite expensive. For example, roberts has them at $6.50 per + shipping.
  20. I Weighed the spare wheel and tire for my old 97 F150. 265r16 and one of the aluminum version on the truck. I don't remember the actual weight but the difference was about 10lbs. I have a set of Jeep factory 15s for my 56 project and they are nearly 9 lbs lighter than a 15" mopar cop wheel from the 70s. There is almost no difference in the OD of the standard wheel and tire package and the oversize aluminum options on most, if not all cars. Like my Tundra, it has 20s on it, aluminum. The standard package is an 18" wheel with a 70 series tire. My 20s use a 55 series tire. Net difference in most tire brands is under 3mm diameter. So, pot hole drop is the same, weight of the wheel and narrower sidewall is much less. Reduced unsprung weight is a good thing as it reduces the work the shocks have to do. And the reduction is most noticeable, IMO as the ratio of unsprung to vehicle weight gets worse, lighter car/truck, heavier wheel/tire. Edit to add: Steel belted radials, even in a similar size will be heavier than OEMs on our old cars, for obvious reasons. steel construction vs nylon or rayon. I think the tread width vs sidewall mass is mostly a wash.
  21. It may never cure completely with that small amount of activator. To give it the best chance to become hard enough to sand, I'd warm it up with a heat lamp or portable heater. Then sand as much off as possible before recoating with the correct mix. The activator doesn't do much of anything to flow and gloss, just the actually curing of the paint film. The other comes from application technique. Proper paint amount, distance from surface, air pressure and gun speed are the key things. That is assuming it is reduced to the correct flow rate for your gun and tip size.
  22. Shorter sidewalls improve handling as there is less 'leverage' to lift the outer part of the tread during cornering. So at a give OD to match the overall gearing and shortening the sidewall results in a bigger hole in the middle to fill with a wheel. In most cases that is also the reason for alloy wheels, reduce unsprung weight and suspension motion that must be dampened by the shocks. It may be my overactive imagination but I think I can feel the difference when comparing the same vehicle with steel wheels and alloy. Seems to have more 'bounce' on certain roads. I don't think size is much of an issue, but on a lighter vehicle the added weight may be noticeable on some roads.
  23. As I recall the cam grind was used to counter the uneven expansion of the piston as it heated. The heavier side, pin bosses, expand differently than the thinner side. The cam grind was intended to assure it was round at operating temp. Later designs use a steel strut cast into the piston to accomplish the same result.
  24. Some clutch designs will allow the levers to go over-center if pushed too far inward. I've never actually encountered this, except on those with centrifugal assistance weights and then only at speed. But, have heard tell of such happening. Maybe the lever height adjustment is so far out that it has gone over center?
  25. Actually IME the opposite is true. Crudely made offshore stuff is heavier because the molds are inexact and mystery metal is cheaper than making molds that fit.
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